RE: [Cal_Boats] West System (Matt)
Matt, when I am doing hot day epoxy work, I put the epoxy tub in a bath
of ice water for a few minutes before I mix. Gets a few more minutes
before it kicks. Scott and I have done boat work together. We are both
Annapolitans (or nearby).
Cheers
Charlie
CAL 25 1657 Chicken Little
CAL 25 460 Fahrvergnugen
CAL 25 1845 Hasty
CAL 40 58 C-Hawk
I type it all out periodically, because I don't really believe it.
From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lost Sailor
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 5:15 PM
To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Cal_Boats] West System
Hi Scott and the rest of the groupsters,
I've been working with West System on a variety of projects on my cal25.
Living in the keys, heat is my issue, too quick of a cure. I use a slow
hardener but still need to be quick in my work. I've learned to always
do a dry run first and get everything I need ready before starting on
the epoxy project.
As far as West System not kicking properly, logically it would seem to
me to be the ratio "mix". Unless you're using 209 hardener in under 50
degrees, the mix is the ticket. Only 205 will cure properly under 60
degrees according to the Gougeon Brothers. My hardener pump has started
to lose some of its prime if I haven't used it in a while and I watch
closely to see that it does not start with air before the hardener comes
out. Even when a bit of air comes out and I guess how much it is and
pump some more, I have never had a problem with west curing. I always
stir it profusely to mix it well but not violently as to not cause air
bubbles.
Check your pumps. Make sure they are clear of obstructions inside, make
sure they don't lose prime, and make sure they are returning to the top
completely after each pump, and then check with measuring cups. And of
course, don't mix up the two hardener pumps. 205 and 206 are 5:1 while
207 and 209 are 3:1.
There are lots of reasons for delamination (leftover amine blush and no
sanding) or maybe spots where the epoxy didn't fill in after you're done
tipping off and have left the room (as when rubbing too hard with a wax
cloth to remove dust prior to coating), but a non-cured epoxy in the
proper environmental conditions is a cause of improper mixing.
I just finished reading a book written in the '70's about wooden boat
building by the Gougeon Brothers. They use awsome techniques in
guaranteeing strength and lightness which work on any boat. Since my
Cal is a '65 and the gelcoat is gone, all of my repairs and renovations
involve West System. (Epoxy works awesomely over polyester but polyester
resin and geloats do not work well over epoxy.)
Unless the goopy layer has cured by now, I strongly recommend removing
the uncured layer, how ever you can, and start over. If all your other
batches have cured with no problem, get rid of the goopy layer and start
over.
There's nothing like taking all the preparation time on the sole, having
a bad cure, going on, only to find out you have to remove your sole and
start all over again later. A lost sole. May God bless your sole.
Peaceski
Mattski
"Shakedown"
'65 Cal25 #104
PS I would love to have some pics of your boat Scott if you have any.
I'm completely renovating my Cal and not having owned one before, need
ideas for the interior as well as how things are "supposed" to be on the
rest of the boat.
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