Bottom paint and through-hull replacement

I'm scheduled to get new bottom paint on my '67 Cal 28 next month and I'm trying to plan ahead. I've only owned this boat since Nov 2003 and have no history on her at all. I have no idea when she was last hauled and bottom painted. Nor do I have any idea when the through-hulls were installed. The hoses for the cockpit drains, coming down behind the companionway ladder, between the quarter berths, look like maybe they are replacments but who knows when. The valve for the head also looks like a newer one; the toilet was brand new when I bought the boat (or so I was told). The only other that I'm aware of is for the speed indicator. I'm asking for help from the list to suggest things to look for and suggestions/criteria for replacement. Thanks for any help -- either here or offlist to sr… [at] pacbell.net Ron Osborne '67 Cal 28 ThinkPad Too Del Mar Marina Camp Pendleton CA

(I'll try this again - when my 15mos old can't power of the computer before I hit send.) Ron, I'll share my rather limited experience with you. I pulled Lenochka last year - it had been pulled approx 3 years ealier by prev-prev-owner, but prev-owner didn't know (wasn't really interested) what was done. And the PPO had long since moved. 1) Inspect all thru-hulls for pitting, cracks, brittleness. I had one thru-hull that I replaced - the speed sensor, because I was switching to new speedo and wanted a matching sensor. 2) Instect all hoses - look for bittleness, cracking, puffy/mushy feeling hose. Remove the end at the thru-hull especially to check for weakened or carcked hose. A few of mine had were a little brittle - I trimmed back to good hose and reinstalled. Clean an corrosion, grit, etc off the fitting before re-installing the hose. My sailing is in the Bay - still trying get an early day to get out the GGate. If I was doing lots of coastal or offshore I would have just replaced them all. 3) Check all stainless clamps on the hoses. A good safety and mariner practice is to have 2 stainless hose clamps at each end of any hose that has either end below water line. 4) Inspect the hose connecting boat to stuffing box. Same for 2 clamps each end. 5) Inspect/replace packing material in stuffing box or put in a PSS unit. I just replaced the packing material - mine was dry, powdery. Spend the extra $8 or so and get the teflon impregnated packing if doing this - or get the PSS unit (much more than $8 though). 6) Inspect the skeg for good connection to hull - no wobble. 7) Insepct cutlass bearing - not sure what to look for, but surveyor and yard chief both said mine was "good, leave it alone". The shaft was firmly center in rubber bearing - assume that you look for "slop" and wear on the rubber that the shaft rides on. 8) Inspect the rudder for cracks, flex, water that continues to weep. Mine had two parallel 7" cracks that leaked "black" water for days - indicator of corroded stainless steel. The yard dremeled out the fiberglass and foam and we found that the welds had broken on the rudder backbone to rudder shaft connection. Opened pocketbook a bit wider for a new rudder - the yard welder said he could weld it, but couldn't guarantee it because of uncertainty about extend of stainless corrosion. Also - Timm Lessley has Cal 9.2 that he lost the rudder on - cracked in about same spot. I decided it was better to be safe and little poorer than the other possibilities. 9) Inspect outside for blisters, dents/indentations, other areas where fiberglass looks unusual. (Okay, I think that was everything that I had in the "erase" post.) TomT Ron Osborne <sr… [at] pacbell.net> wrote: I'm scheduled to get new bottom paint on my '67 Cal 28 next month and I'm trying to plan ahead. I've only owned this boat since Nov 2003 and have no history on her at all. I have no idea when she was last hauled and bottom painted. Nor do I have any idea when the through-hulls were installed. The hoses for the cockpit drains, coming down behind the companionway ladder, between the quarter berths, look like maybe they are replacments but who knows when. The valve for the head also looks like a newer one; the toilet was brand new when I bought the boat (or so I was told). The only other that I'm aware of is for the speed indicator. I'm asking for help from the list to suggest things to look for and suggestions/criteria for replacement. Thanks for any help -- either here or offlist to sr… [at] pacbell.net Ron Osborne '67 Cal 28 ThinkPad Too Del Mar Marina Camp Pendleton CA SPONSORED LINKS Boating sailing Sailing boat Sailing Boating --------------------------------- YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Cal_Boats" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. --------------------------------- Tom Tilley 1982 Cal 9.2 "Lenochka" Hull #53 San Mateo, CA --------------------------------- Yahoo! Mail Use Photomail to share photos without annoying attachments.

I add a couple of comments I didn't have time for before. On Feb 17, 2006, at 9:26 PM, Tom Tilley wrote: > (I'll try this again - when my 15mos old can't power of the > computer before I hit send.) > > Ron, > > I'll share my rather limited experience with you. I pulled Lenochka > last year - it had been pulled approx 3 years ealier by prev-prev- > owner, but prev-owner didn't know (wasn't really interested) what > was done. And the PPO had long since moved. > > 1) Inspect all thru-hulls for pitting, cracks, brittleness. I had > one thru-hull that I replaced - the speed sensor, because I was > switching to new speedo and wanted a matching sensor. The critical issue is the seacock. That should be the lever type and move freely. If it doesn't, the seacock should be replaced and the thru-hull usually has to be replaced too. I replaced most of them on the 40 and talked to the yard boss about Marelon vs bronze. He doesn't like plastic seacocks so mine are all bronze. I left a couple that the previous owner had replaced in recent years. > > 2) Instect all hoses - look for bittleness, cracking, puffy/mushy > feeling hose. Remove the end at the thru-hull especially to check > for weakened or carcked hose. A few of mine had were a little > brittle - I trimmed back to good hose and reinstalled. Clean an > corrosion, grit, etc off the fitting before re-installing the hose. > My sailing is in the Bay - still trying get an early day to get out > the GGate. If I was doing lots of coastal or offshore I would have > just replaced them all. Good advice > > 3) Check all stainless clamps on the hoses. A good safety and > mariner practice is to have 2 stainless hose clamps at each end of > any hose that has either end below water line. You won't pass a survey without double hose clamps. > > 4) Inspect the hose connecting boat to stuffing box. Same for 2 > clamps each end. > > 5) Inspect/replace packing material in stuffing box or put in a PSS > unit. I just replaced the packing material - mine was dry, powdery. > Spend the extra $8 or so and get the teflon impregnated packing if > doing this - or get the PSS unit (much more than $8 though). I went to the dripless unit but was taking the whole thing apart. > > 6) Inspect the skeg for good connection to hull - no wobble. > > 7) Insepct cutlass bearing - not sure what to look for, but > surveyor and yard chief both said mine was "good, leave it alone". > The shaft was firmly center in rubber bearing - assume that you > look for "slop" and wear on the rubber that the shaft rides on. Wiggling the shaft should be enough to tell. It should wiggle a little. > > 8) Inspect the rudder for cracks, flex, water that continues to > weep. Mine had two parallel 7" cracks that leaked "black" water for > days - indicator of corroded stainless steel. The yard dremeled out > the fiberglass and foam and we found that the welds had broken on > the rudder backbone to rudder shaft connection. Opened pocketbook a > bit wider for a new rudder - the yard welder said he could weld it, > but couldn't guarantee it because of uncertainty about extend of > stainless corrosion. Also - Timm Lessley has Cal 9.2 that he lost > the rudder on - cracked in about same spot. I decided it was better > to be safe and little poorer than the other possibilities. > 9) Inspect outside for blisters, dents/indentations, other areas > where fiberglass looks unusual. > > (Okay, I think that was everything that I had in the "erase" post.) I painted the bottom of all my boats, even the race boats. We used a roller and sanded the bottom fairing in all the low spots, etc. When I hauled the 40 a year ago, I checked for any blisters (there were very few) and ground off the tops to allow them to dry until the bottom was painted almost 7 months later. I also drilled a hole in the bottom of the rudder to see if it was wet. No dripping. We sealed the hole before painting. This spring I will haul it again to swap a thru-hull for the new holding tank and will sand and repaint. MIke Kennedy Conquest Cal 40 # 96 > > TomT > > > Ron Osborne <sr… [at] pacbell.net> wrote: > I'm scheduled to get new bottom paint on my '67 Cal 28 next month > and I'm trying to plan > ahead. I've only owned this boat since Nov 2003 and have no history > on her at all. I have > no idea when she was last hauled and bottom painted. Nor do I have > any idea when the > through-hulls were installed. >