electricl connections

As part of the on-going saga of Second Wind's overhaul, after removing the mast to repair a spreader I decided to rewire the mast. After getting into the electrical system I found very poor (dangerous) wiring where a new panel had been added in a different location - and the wires poorly spliced and routed through the engine compartment to make the move. I've also removed about 100' of wire that was just cut and left etc. etc. I've decided to rewire the entire boat and have successfully routed wires in their original (I think) locations. I've ordered a new Blue Sea systems 12 switch panel, used the new "safety" wire (red and yellow) etc. etc. My question...I want to use the Ancor ring connectors and blade connectors (at the panel) that have the shrink tube with adhesive. Everything I read says you should solder all the connectors to the wire but I don't think this can be done with the shrink tube equipped connectors. Am I missing something? Anybody done this? Keith Cal-34 #337 Second Wind

On May 14, 2006, at 7:11 AM, kvcpls wrote: > As part of the on-going saga of Second Wind's overhaul, after > removing the mast to repair a spreader I decided to rewire the > mast. After getting into the electrical system I found very poor > (dangerous) wiring where a new panel had been added in a different > location - and the wires poorly spliced and routed through the > engine compartment to make the move. I've also removed about 100' > of wire that was just cut and left etc. etc. I've decided to rewire > the entire boat and have successfully routed wires in their original > (I think) locations. I've ordered a new Blue Sea systems 12 switch > panel, used the new "safety" wire (red and yellow) etc. etc. I rewired Conquest using a new (actually two) Blue Sea panels and am still adding to it. > > My question...I want to use the Ancor ring connectors and blade > connectors (at the panel) that have the shrink tube with adhesive. > Everything I read says you should solder all the connectors to the > wire but I don't think this can be done with the shrink tube > equipped connectors. Am I missing something? Anybody done this? I bought a couple of books on this when I began and they seemed to agree that soldering was not a good idea. Mine are all crimped connectors with shrink tubing over. I also used a number of gang connectors to cut down the number of wires going to the panel. For cabin lights, for example, I run a heavier gauge wire from the panel to a gang connector on each side of the boat, then smaller gauge wires to the fixtures from the gang connector. I also have larger gang connectors for the negatives. There is just one 8 gauge ground running to the panel from each side. Mike Kennedy Conquest Cal 40 # 96 > > Keith > Cal-34 #337 > Second Wind > > > > > > > SPONSORED LINKS > Boating sailing Sailing boat Sailing > Boating > > YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS > > Visit your group "Cal_Boats" on the web. > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. > >

I just looked in Sailboat Electrics Simplified by Don Casey, one of the books I bought and use to guide this type of work. He basically says that with tinned wire and crimp connectors, along with heat shrink, soldering becomes unnecessary. If done improperly, using too much, soldering can make the wire solid and more susceptible too breakage. Casey¹s book was invaluable to me when I was starting out rewiring things and it cost less than $20. Worth every penny. Good luck with your project. Terry Spencer Capriccio Cal 2-29 From: Michael Kennedy <mt… [at] cox.net> Reply-To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Sun, 14 May 2006 07:23:04 -0700 To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] electricl connections On May 14, 2006, at 7:11 AM, kvcpls wrote: > As part of the on-going saga of Second Wind's overhaul, after > removing the mast to repair a spreader I decided to rewire the > mast. After getting into the electrical system I found very poor > (dangerous) wiring where a new panel had been added in a different > location - and the wires poorly spliced and routed through the > engine compartment to make the move. I've also removed about 100' > of wire that was just cut and left etc. etc. I've decided to rewire > the entire boat and have successfully routed wires in their original > (I think) locations. I've ordered a new Blue Sea systems 12 switch > panel, used the new "safety" wire (red and yellow) etc. etc. I rewired Conquest using a new (actually two) Blue Sea panels and am still adding to it. > > My question...I want to use the Ancor ring connectors and blade > connectors (at the panel) that have the shrink tube with adhesive. > Everything I read says you should solder all the connectors to the > wire but I don't think this can be done with the shrink tube > equipped connectors. Am I missing something? Anybody done this? I bought a couple of books on this when I began and they seemed to agree that soldering was not a good idea. Mine are all crimped connectors with shrink tubing over. I also used a number of gang connectors to cut down the number of wires going to the panel. For cabin lights, for example, I run a heavier gauge wire from the panel to a gang connector on each side of the boat, then smaller gauge wires to the fixtures from the gang connector. I also have larger gang connectors for the negatives. There is just one 8 gauge ground running to the panel from each side. Mike Kennedy Conquest Cal 40 # 96 > > Keith > Cal-34 #337 > Second Wind > > > > > > > > SPONSORED LINKS > > Boating sailing > <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Boating+sailing&w1=Boating+sailing&w2=Sai > ling+boat&w3=Sailing&w4=Boating&c=4&s=65&.sig=KgsPLsahA8AB__qRyAt_XQ> > Sailing boat > <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Sailing+boat&w1=Boating+sailing&w2=Sailin > g+boat&w3=Sailing&w4=Boating&c=4&s=65&.sig=oZUJLnrR0FEbvZ5o13Ffaw> > Sailing > <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Sailing&w1=Boating+sailing&w2=Sailing+boa > t&w3=Sailing&w4=Boating&c=4&s=65&.sig=eGOXnwatS3x0LYN3XxVdNA> > Boating > <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Boating&w1=Boating+sailing&w2=Sailing+boa > t&w3=Sailing&w4=Boating&c=4&s=65&.sig=yMCAyUrqzhoqLD5Ydiy-Rg> > > > > YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS > > > * Visit your group "Cal_Boats <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Cal_Boats> " on > the web. > * > * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > * Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > <mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe> > * > * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service > <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> . > > > > > > > SPONSORED LINKS Boating sailing <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Boating+sailing&w1=Boating+sailing&w2=S ailing+boat&w3=Sailing&w4=Boating&c=4&s=65&.sig=KgsPLsahA8AB__qRyAt_XQ> Sailing boat <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Sailing+boat&w1=Boating+sailing&w2=Sail ing+boat&w3=Sailing&w4=Boating&c=4&s=65&.sig=oZUJLnrR0FEbvZ5o13Ffaw> Sailing <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Sailing&w1=Boating+sailing&w2=Sailing+b oat&w3=Sailing&w4=Boating&c=4&s=65&.sig=eGOXnwatS3x0LYN3XxVdNA> Boating <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Boating&w1=Boating+sailing&w2=Sailing+b oat&w3=Sailing&w4=Boating&c=4&s=65&.sig=yMCAyUrqzhoqLD5Ydiy-Rg> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS * Visit your group "Cal_Boats <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Cal_Boats> " on the web. * * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: * Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe> * * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .

Keith, I have read many times that you should NOT solder connections on a boat and in the case of my custom-lengthed battery cables (that I was so proud of) I soldered anyway. They failed particularly rapidly. I went back to West Marine and bought fresh terminals and crimped them with a swaging tool. Sort of an ugly crimp, but they aren't going to fail any time soon. I learned to solder properly many years ago and have done a lot of it so nobody can fault my technique. David Wilkie Owen Cal 2-29 "Mariposa" Santa Barbara, CA http://www.mariposasailing.com From: "kvcpls" <KV… [at] charter.net> To: <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 7:11 AM Subject: [Cal_Boats] electricl connections > As part of the on-going saga of Second Wind's overhaul, after > removing the mast to repair a spreader I decided to rewire the > mast. After getting into the electrical system I found very poor > (dangerous) wiring where a new panel had been added in a different > location - and the wires poorly spliced and routed through the > engine compartment to make the move. I've also removed about 100' > of wire that was just cut and left etc. etc. I've decided to rewire > the entire boat and have successfully routed wires in their original > (I think) locations. I've ordered a new Blue Sea systems 12 switch > panel, used the new "safety" wire (red and yellow) etc. etc. > > My question...I want to use the Ancor ring connectors and blade > connectors (at the panel) that have the shrink tube with adhesive. > Everything I read says you should solder all the connectors to the > wire but I don't think this can be done with the shrink tube > equipped connectors. Am I missing something? Anybody done this? > > Keith > Cal-34 #337 > Second Wind > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > >

Thanks all for your comments. Here is a link from a seemingly experienced person that says connections should be crimped and soldered: http://www.islandnet.com/robb/marine.html#Connections Perhaps one of the key factors is using rosin core - not acid core solder. My soldering technique is going from passable to OK. My gut feeling - if the wire is properly secured so there is no stress on the connection and with the heat shrink with the adhesive lining, solder probably doesn't add much - and could cause future problems..... Keith --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, "Skipper" <skipper@...> wrote: > > > Keith, > > I have read many times that you should NOT solder connections on a boat and > in the case of my custom-lengthed battery cables (that I was so proud of) I > soldered anyway. They failed particularly rapidly. > > I went back to West Marine and bought fresh terminals and crimped them with > a swaging tool. Sort of an ugly crimp, but they aren't going to fail any > time soon. I learned to solder properly many years ago and have done a lot > of it so nobody can fault my technique. > > > David Wilkie Owen > _________________ > Cal 2-29 "Mariposa" > Santa Barbara, CA > http://www.mariposasailing.com > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "kvcpls" <KVCrowe@...> > To: <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 7:11 AM > Subject: [Cal_Boats] electricl connections > > > > As part of the on-going saga of Second Wind's overhaul, after > > removing the mast to repair a spreader I decided to rewire the > > mast. After getting into the electrical system I found very poor > > (dangerous) wiring where a new panel had been added in a different > > location - and the wires poorly spliced and routed through the > > engine compartment to make the move. I've also removed about 100' > > of wire that was just cut and left etc. etc. I've decided to rewire > > the entire boat and have successfully routed wires in their original > > (I think) locations. I've ordered a new Blue Sea systems 12 switch > > panel, used the new "safety" wire (red and yellow) etc. etc. > > > > My question...I want to use the Ancor ring connectors and blade > > connectors (at the panel) that have the shrink tube with adhesive. > > Everything I read says you should solder all the connectors to the > > wire but I don't think this can be done with the shrink tube > > equipped connectors. Am I missing something? Anybody done this? > > > > Keith > > Cal-34 #337 > > Second Wind > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >

Hello I started the rewire job of my CAL2-29 a new blue seas panel mounted on the starboard side in a teak side panel near the the stove this holds the battery volt meter digital VHF radio and car radio. Some ideas I used. Total current to determine wire size so there will no voltage drop or very little. The ground bus bar was sub satandard so I added real one (blue seas it) can take battery cables. As for connections I think solder after crimping heat shrinking and spray all the connectoins with an Aryclic sealer. SALT AIR will ruin crimp lugs in time . Scott Walker Cal 2-29 Coyote Pt CAL Michael Kennedy <mt… [at] cox.net> wrote: On May 14, 2006, at 7:11 AM, kvcpls wrote: As part of the on-going saga of Second Wind's overhaul, after removing the mast to repair a spreader I decided to rewire the mast. After getting into the electrical system I found very poor (dangerous) wiring where a new panel had been added in a different location - and the wires poorly spliced and routed through the engine compartment to make the move. I've also removed about 100' of wire that was just cut and left etc. etc. I've decided to rewire the entire boat and have successfully routed wires in their original (I think) locations. I've ordered a new Blue Sea systems 12 switch panel, used the new "safety" wire (red and yellow) etc. etc. I rewired Conquest using a new (actually two) Blue Sea panels and am still adding to it. My question...I want to use the Ancor ring connectors and blade connectors (at the panel) that have the shrink tube with adhesive. Everything I read says you should solder all the connectors to the wire but I don't think this can be done with the shrink tube equipped connectors. Am I missing something? Anybody done this? I bought a couple of books on this when I began and they seemed to agree that soldering was not a good idea. Mine are all crimped connectors with shrink tubing over. I also used a number of gang connectors to cut down the number of wires going to the panel. For cabin lights, for example, I run a heavier gauge wire from the panel to a gang connector on each side of the boat, then smaller gauge wires to the fixtures from the gang connector. I also have larger gang connectors for the negatives. There is just one 8 gauge ground running to the panel from each side. Mike Kennedy Conquest Cal 40 # 96 Keith Cal-34 #337 Second Wind SPONSORED LINKS Boating sailing Sailing boat Sailing Boating --------------------------------- YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Cal_Boats" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. --------------------------------- SPONSORED LINKS Boating sailing Sailing boat Sailing Boating --------------------------------- YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Cal_Boats" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. --------------------------------- --------------------------------- New Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Call regular phones from your PC and save big.

On May 14, 2006, at 7:51 AM, Terrence Spencer wrote: > I just looked in Sailboat Electrics Simplified by Don Casey, one of > the books I bought and use to guide this type of work. That is one of the books I used as a source. Another is "Boatowners Illustrated Handbook of Wiring" by Charlie Wing. Mike Kennedy Conquest Cal 40 # 96 > He basically says that with tinned wire and crimp connectors, > along with heat shrink, soldering becomes unnecessary. If done > improperly, using too much, soldering can make the wire solid and > more susceptible too breakage. Casey’s book was invaluable to me > when I was starting out rewiring things and it cost less than $20. > Worth every penny. > > Good luck with your project. > > Terry Spencer > Capriccio > Cal 2-29 > > > From: Michael Kennedy <mt… [at] cox.net> > Reply-To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > Date: Sun, 14 May 2006 07:23:04 -0700 > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] electricl connections > > > On May 14, 2006, at 7:11 AM, kvcpls wrote: > >> As part of the on-going saga of Second Wind's overhaul, after >> removing the mast to repair a spreader I decided to rewire the >> mast. After getting into the electrical system I found very poor >> (dangerous) wiring where a new panel had been added in a different >> location - and the wires poorly spliced and routed through the >> engine compartment to make the move. I've also removed about 100' >> of wire that was just cut and left etc. etc. I've decided to rewire >> the entire boat and have successfully routed wires in their original >> (I think) locations. I've ordered a new Blue Sea systems 12 switch >> panel, used the new "safety" wire (red and yellow) etc. etc. > > I rewired Conquest using a new (actually two) Blue Sea panels and > am still adding to it. >> >> My question...I want to use the Ancor ring connectors and blade >> connectors (at the panel) that have the shrink tube with adhesive. >> Everything I read says you should solder all the connectors to the >> wire but I don't think this can be done with the shrink tube >> equipped connectors. Am I missing something? Anybody done this? > > I bought a couple of books on this when I began and they seemed to > agree that soldering was not a good idea. Mine are all crimped > connectors with shrink tubing over. I also used a number of gang > connectors to cut down the number of wires going to the panel. For > cabin lights, for example, I run a heavier gauge wire from the > panel to a gang connector on each side of the boat, then smaller > gauge wires to the fixtures from the gang connector. I also have > larger gang connectors for the negatives. There is just one 8 gauge > ground running to the panel from each side. > > Mike Kennedy > Conquest Cal 40 # 96 >> >> Keith >> Cal-34 #337 >> Second Wind >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> SPONSORED LINKS >> >> Boating sailing <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads? >> t=ms&k=Boating+sailing&w1=Boating+sailing&w2=Sailing >> +boat&w3=Sailing&w4=Boating&c=4&s=65&.sig=KgsPLsahA8AB__qRyAt_XQ> >> Sailing boat <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Sailing >> +boat&w1=Boating+sailing&w2=Sailing >> +boat&w3=Sailing&w4=Boating&c=4&s=65&.sig=oZUJLnrR0FEbvZ5o13Ffaw> >> Sailing <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads? >> t=ms&k=Sailing&w1=Boating+sailing&w2=Sailing >> +boat&w3=Sailing&w4=Boating&c=4&s=65&.sig=eGOXnwatS3x0LYN3XxVdNA> >> Boating <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads? >> t=ms&k=Boating&w1=Boating+sailing&w2=Sailing >> +boat&w3=Sailing&w4=Boating&c=4&s=65&.sig=yMCAyUrqzhoqLD5Ydiy-Rg> >> >> >> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS >> >> >> Visit your group "Cal_Boats <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ >> Cal_Boats> " on the web. >> >> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: >> Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <mailto:Cal_Boats- >> un… [at] yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe> >> >> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of >> Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> . >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > SPONSORED LINKS > > Boating sailing <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Boating > +sailing&w1=Boating+sailing&w2=Sailing > +boat&w3=Sailing&w4=Boating&c=4&s=65&.sig=KgsPLsahA8AB__qRyAt_XQ> > Sailing boat <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Sailing > +boat&w1=Boating+sailing&w2=Sailing > +boat&w3=Sailing&w4=Boating&c=4&s=65&.sig=oZUJLnrR0FEbvZ5o13Ffaw> > Sailing <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Sailing&w1=Boating > +sailing&w2=Sailing > +boat&w3=Sailing&w4=Boating&c=4&s=65&.sig=eGOXnwatS3x0LYN3XxVdNA> > Boating <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Boating&w1=Boating > +sailing&w2=Sailing > +boat&w3=Sailing&w4=Boating&c=4&s=65&.sig=yMCAyUrqzhoqLD5Ydiy-Rg> > > > YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS > > Visit your group "Cal_Boats <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ > Cal_Boats> " on the web. > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <mailto:Cal_Boats- > un… [at] yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service > <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> . > > > > > > SPONSORED LINKS > Boating sailing Sailing boat Sailing > Boating > > YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS > > Visit your group "Cal_Boats" on the web. > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. > >

I second (or third) the no solder on crimped connections. And never use acid core solder for wiring. Also try to have a "service loop" at the termination point if space allows. This is a U shaped bend in the wire (could also be a full loop) that takes some of the strain of wire bundle vibration off the contact and crimp. It also allows you to cut off a failed contact and replace it without having to use a splice because the wire was now to short. Best wishes, JB

--- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, JB <calsail0@...> wrote: > > I second (or third) the no solder on crimped connections. And never use > acid core solder for wiring. Also try to have a "service loop" at the > termination point if space allows. This is a U shaped bend in the wire > (could also be a full loop) that takes some of the strain of wire bundle > vibration off the contact and crimp. It also allows you to cut off a > failed contact and replace it without having to use a splice because the > wire was now to short. It also tends to let condensation drip off the wire before bathing the connector in salt water. It is sometimes called a "drip loop" for that reason. Mike Kennedy Conquest Cal 40 # 96 > Best wishes, > JB >

I am sending a note to this Cal 28 owner to join this group, but meanwhile he wrote me and asked a question I cannot answer. Knowing the pros on this site, I thought one of you might respond to him at the email address below. Thanks. Here's his question: From: Raoul Chapman [mailto:rc… [at] gci.com] Sent: Monday, May 15, 2006 3:23 PM To: br… [at] stirlinglaw.com Subject: Cal 28 keel/ballast I'm bugging everybody I can about this. Would you or someone you know be able to tell me exactly how the ballast was attatched in my 1968/69 Cal28? I did not see any keel bolts in the bilge, but could have missed them. This was a long distance purchase and I had limited time on the boat, and it has been bugging me since. The boat, named Feng Shui, is on the hard near Lake Erie. I did see a working line in the bottom paint around the keel about one foot from the bottom, this worries me if the ballast is just encapsulated and not bolted. Thanks. By the way, great pics of your boat and great website. Hopefully we'll see you out there someday. This fall we are taking Feng Shui through the Erie Canal and down the ICW to Florida. Next year maybe Panama or Costa Rica. RaoulChapman Field Service Tech. II GCI Fairbanks rc… [at] gci.com

Not really familiar with the 28, however many/most Cals have a hull that includes the keel with the lead dropped in and encapsulated in fiberglass.....On my 34 III that is why there is such a deep bilge....that I miss dearly!! Greg 1977 Cal 34 III (for sale) 1986 P36-2 (shallow bilge) ----- Original Message ----- From: Bruce Stirling To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Cc: rc… [at] gci.com Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2006 9:11 AM Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] How is ballast attached to keel on Cal 28 (1968-69) I am sending a note to this Cal 28 owner to join this group, but meanwhile he wrote me and asked a question I cannot answer. Knowing the pros on this site, I thought one of you might respond to him at the email address below. Thanks. Here's his question: -----Original Message----- From: Raoul Chapman [mailto:rc… [at] gci.com] Sent: Monday, May 15, 2006 3:23 PM To: br… [at] stirlinglaw.com Subject: Cal 28 keel/ballast I'm bugging everybody I can about this. Would you or someone you know be able to tell me exactly how the ballast was attatched in my 1968/69 Cal28? I did not see any keel bolts in the bilge, but could have missed them. This was a long distance purchase and I had limited time on the boat, and it has been bugging me since. The boat, named Feng Shui, is on the hard near Lake Erie. I did see a working line in the bottom paint around the keel about one foot from the bottom, this worries me if the ballast is just encapsulated and not bolted. Thanks. By the way, great pics of your boat and great website. Hopefully we'll see you out there someday. This fall we are taking Feng Shui through the Erie Canal and down the ICW to Florida. Next year maybe Panama or Costa Rica. RaoulChapman Field Service Tech. II GCI Fairbanks rc… [at] gci.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS a.. Visit your group "Cal_Boats" on the web. b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------