Rivets Again (Scott)

Forgot to say I dipped each rivet in Lanocote prior to insertion. Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Husar Charlie Sent: Saturday, August 26, 2006 7:33 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] Re: Pop rivet help URGENT Fiver, I like your passion. Hi, Scott. I'll probably catch you at Whitehall today if you haven't already pulled out. Steve Seals sends SS rivets with his spreader bracket assemblies. I used to use aluminum on the sides of the mast base for turning blocks, and every coupla years one would explode out. Kaboom... Quite an effect. Luckily, nobody got hurt. I busted an Arrow hand tool installing the Seals parts. Looked like a cast aluminum head on the tool. I went and got a Stanley with an apparent steel head (same price), and got through the job with sore hands as Fiver indicates. If I were doing more of them, I'd get into air tools, compressor and all. Maybe even a spray gun. Here I go again. Lessee... Five kinds of sanders, seven kinds of saws... Cheers Charlie Annapolis From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of slickbutfoxbuger Sent: Friday, August 25, 2006 9:31 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: Pop rivet help URGENT greetings All.... i really hate to be contrary to what seems to be the prevailing wisdom, but...... having specialized in just this sort of thing over the years (structure integrity viruses saltwater environment). and having done a little aluminum mast work, and worked with Raytheon a bit on the same. i got to tell you, i would never use an aluminum pop-rivets for any structural attachment, period! and i don't give two-hoots-and-a- holler what dis-similar metal i was dealing with. there are always "ways" of dealing with possible rivet-erosion and or corrosion. even when putting the "guts" into sub's, we used ton's of pop-rivet's. aluminum for the non-structure work of putting little storage lockers together and even putting the hinges on them as well as some of the SS hard-wear on them too. but where it came to the structural fastening requiring pop-rivets; that was all done with SS rivets through aluminum sheets. you can see a bit of corrosion and replace your rivet. but you can't see a damned rivet about ready to fracture from stress! you can always have one of the part's power-coated as Raytheon does their mast-mounted radar mounts. or use an electrical isolating gel of some- sort to keep salt-water mostly out. we are talking "Safety-at-Sea" here, folks. i always use the strongest, not the prettiest or the longest lasting. there is also the practice of putting a backing washer on the inside (the blind side of the rivet). this gives the rivet even more metal for holding and lessens the stress on the thin surrounding aluminum. as far as a good rivet gun goes; try a commercial truck parts sails place. that is where i got my air powered pop-rivet gun for $100. and that thing will drive anything made; no more sore hands....... fiver of old 54 (built like a battleship; sails like a sub) *************************** --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, "Scott Sauvageot" <rxnumbercruncher@...> wrote: > > Hi all, > > I'm assembling my new dwyer boom and using 3/16 SS pop rivets for the end > cap and gooseneck casting. I'm not attaching my mainsheet to the end cap. > Would it be ok to use aluminum pop rivets instead or SS or does someone know > where I can find an affordable pop rivet gun for 3/16 stainless poprivets. > My poor sears "commercial" tool won't handle them (as I found out when I > shattered the head off the thing trying) > > Please any advice welcome > > Scott Sauvageot > Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links