Cal 2-29 Farymann Bang Clang noise from prop area inspection results

This morning, I made a dive to inspect the nature of the bang and clunking problem and this is what I found. The cutlass bearing support blade/fin sheered off at the top of the cutlass bearing housing. The prop shaft had no support. This clearly explains what went wrong! Thank god it was only feet from the slip and we were able to shut the engine down immediately. So I guess the next question is... Is the blade stainless or aluminum? Can this material be welded back with out causing other damage, if there is adequate material? Can the blade and bearing unit be purchased? How does the blade attach to the hull? Any idea how much a yard will charge to fix? I am in the San Pedro area any trust worthy yards? Is this something that can be welded under water or time to haul out???? Appreciate any help. Mark Cal 2-29 Pelican San Pedro

Hi Mark, I had the exact same thing happen to my 3-30 about 6 years ago where the strut sheared of the the mounting plate. Ours is made of stainless steel. I had to haul the boat out, remove and clean both pieces and then I tig welded them back together, pickled and passified it, and put it back in the boat. When we hauled out last spring I removed all the paint off of it and ran some dye over it to inspect for any new cracks or pitting. It is still fine after 6 years. The strut is through bolted into the hull with the nuts on the inside which can be difficult to access, ours are under and behind the fuel tank. If your strut is stainless it can be fixed by a good welder providing there isn't any other corrosion. Make sure they passify it though after it's welded. It cannot be welded under water. If your strut is bronze, it can still be tig welded, but needs to be inspected carefully for any other cracks and more importantly, for any compromise in the bronze from electrolosis where the tin has been pulled out of the alloy leaving a brittle and weak copper part pretending to be bronze. If this is the case it needs to be replaced. If your strut is bronze, and compromised, this could be why it broke. On another note... How is your steel beam under the bulkhead? I have a template and jig for making up the 29series beams out of 316L.... I did a few a few years ago. Alan Storey 3-30x Chimera Vancouver BC. --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, "markalan05" <masconsult@...> wrote: > > This morning, I made a dive to inspect the nature of the bang and > clunking problem and this is what I found. The cutlass bearing > support blade/fin sheered off at the top of the cutlass bearing > housing. The prop shaft had no support. This clearly explains what > went wrong! Thank god it was only feet from the slip and we were able > to shut the engine down immediately. So I guess the next question > is... > > Is the blade stainless or aluminum? > Can this material be welded back with out causing other damage, if > there is adequate material? > Can the blade and bearing unit be purchased? > How does the blade attach to the hull? > Any idea how much a yard will charge to fix? > I am in the San Pedro area any trust worthy yards? > > Is this something that can be welded under water or time to haul > out???? > > Appreciate any help. > > Mark > Cal 2-29 Pelican > San Pedro >

Alan, I am going to have to make another dive to confirm the strut material. It did not look like bronze. My impression was that it looked more like a SS or AL. I do not feel all that comfortable with repairing bronze. I would rather try and replace with another part. If it is made of SS, I will consider having it welded, when I haul the boat out of the water. Additionally, I will try and track down the strut, bearing, shaft and engine coupling for a complete replacement. Thanks, Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: Alan Storey To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2006 3:30 PM Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: Cal 2-29 Farymann Bang Clang noise from prop area inspection results Hi Mark, I had the exact same thing happen to my 3-30 about 6 years ago where the strut sheared of the the mounting plate. Ours is made of stainless steel. I had to haul the boat out, remove and clean both pieces and then I tig welded them back together, pickled and passified it, and put it back in the boat. When we hauled out last spring I removed all the paint off of it and ran some dye over it to inspect for any new cracks or pitting. It is still fine after 6 years. The strut is through bolted into the hull with the nuts on the inside which can be difficult to access, ours are under and behind the fuel tank. If your strut is stainless it can be fixed by a good welder providing there isn't any other corrosion. Make sure they passify it though after it's welded. It cannot be welded under water. If your strut is bronze, it can still be tig welded, but needs to be inspected carefully for any other cracks and more importantly, for any compromise in the bronze from electrolosis where the tin has been pulled out of the alloy leaving a brittle and weak copper part pretending to be bronze. If this is the case it needs to be replaced. If your strut is bronze, and compromised, this could be why it broke. On another note... How is your steel beam under the bulkhead? I have a template and jig for making up the 29series beams out of 316L.... I did a few a few years ago. Alan Storey 3-30x Chimera Vancouver BC. --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, "markalan05" <masconsult@...> wrote: > > This morning, I made a dive to inspect the nature of the bang and > clunking problem and this is what I found. The cutlass bearing > support blade/fin sheered off at the top of the cutlass bearing > housing. The prop shaft had no support. This clearly explains what > went wrong! Thank god it was only feet from the slip and we were able > to shut the engine down immediately. So I guess the next question > is... > > Is the blade stainless or aluminum? > Can this material be welded back with out causing other damage, if > there is adequate material? > Can the blade and bearing unit be purchased? > How does the blade attach to the hull? > Any idea how much a yard will charge to fix? > I am in the San Pedro area any trust worthy yards? > > Is this something that can be welded under water or time to haul > out???? > > Appreciate any help. > > Mark > Cal 2-29 Pelican > San Pedro >