Re: [Cal_Boats] How to remove salt build-up from inboard diesel

Hi Tom, are you sure it is salt build-up? You have the Universal 5411, raw water, diesel, right? When I bought my boat, the cooling passages were pretty clogged and the engine would overheat within a couple minutes. I assumed it was rust flakes, being that the engine was not run very often, so I used straight muriatic acid and it worked like a charm. I have not had any problems since. I disconnected the 2 hoses (water entry and exit) from the block, actually I disconnected them at the other end leaving them attached to the block. I tied the inlet hose up as high as I as I could and stuck a funnel in it. The exit hose was put into a bucket which was raised up high enough to not drain the acid out of the block, as it was SLOWLY poured into the funnel. Cover the bucket with a wet towel because the exit hose will gurgle and spit, pour enough acid into the block so it just starts coming out of the exit hose and into the bucket. I let it set for a couple of hours, going back every so often and pouring a little more acid in. I knew it was working because there was a orangeish/blackish gook coming out. After a few hours I carefully lowered the bucket and drained the acid from the block. I then attached a garden hose and flushed thoroughly. Make sure to take the this stuff seriously enough to have full skin and eye protection as well as a respirator, fan, and a bucket of fresh water or hose on hand in case of emergencies, spills, etc.. If you have any more questions let me know. Daniel Casey "Air Time" Cal 9.2R #75 Santa Barbara, Ca.

Daniel - Yep - I've got the Universal 5411. I don't have an overheating problem at this time, although I'm getting a small amount of what appears to be steam out of the exhaust. It is white like fog, but not white smoke, and not a lot of it and it completely dissipates about 18" above the water. I remembered reading somewhere that it may be steam because of a slight overheat where cooling water wasn't circulating completely in the block and wanted to take some (hopefully) corrective action prior to installation of new impeller for water pump. No - I'm not sure that my problem is salt build-up, may very well be the rust build-up similar to what you had. Thanks for the reminder/instructions on what you did to clean up your block. I'll do the same. And, yes - safety first when dealing with acids. Thanks - this was the info I was looking for. TomT Tom Tilley 1982 Cal 9.2 "Lenochka" Hull #53 San Mateo, CA --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.

Along the same lines, We have an original Westerbeke 30, fresh water cooled, which has recently started overheating at full throttle. Impeller is good, but raw water flow does not seem as good as it should be, maybe water jacket is obstructed. Would the same method apply? The water jacket is a royal pain to get to, let alone replace (assuming I could find a replacement). Many thanks for any info. Rob Roberts Selah 77 Cal 3/34 Destin, Fl ai… [at] aol.com wrote: Hi Tom, are you sure it is salt build-up? You have the Universal 5411, raw water, diesel, right? When I bought my boat, the cooling passages were pretty clogged and the engine would overheat within a couple minutes. I assumed it was rust flakes, being that the engine was not run very often, so I used straight muriatic acid and it worked like a charm. I have not had any problems since. I disconnected the 2 hoses (water entry and exit) from the block, actually I disconnected them at the other end leaving them attached to the block. I tied the inlet hose up as high as I as I could and stuck a funnel in it. The exit hose was put into a bucket which was raised up high enough to not drain the acid out of the block, as it was SLOWLY poured into the funnel. Cover the bucket with a wet towel because the exit hose will gurgle and spit, pour enough acid into the block so it just starts coming out of the exit hose and into the bucket. I let it set for a couple of hours, going back every so often and pouring a little more acid in. I knew it was working because there was a orangeish/blackish gook coming out. After a few hours I carefully lowered the bucket and drained the acid from the block. I then attached a garden hose and flushed thoroughly. Make sure to take the this stuff seriously enough to have full skin and eye protection as well as a respirator, fan, and a bucket of fresh water or hose on hand in case of emergencies, spills, etc.. If you have any more questions let me know. Daniel Casey "Air Time" Cal 9.2R #75 Santa Barbara, Ca.

our westerbeke also over heatd and we started at the raw water pump but found that the fitting at the v drive was completely pluded with salt. at the elbow. The elbow broke off when we tried to remove it. The trick is to follow the flow of water thru the system and you will find the blockage. Dave Paulson Allergia Channel Islands , Ca ----- Original Message ----- From: Robin roberts To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 5:51 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] How to remove salt build-up from inboard diesel Along the same lines, We have an original Westerbeke 30, fresh water cooled, which has recently started overheating at full throttle. Impeller is good, but raw water flow does not seem as good as it should be, maybe water jacket is obstructed. Would the same method apply? The water jacket is a royal pain to get to, let alone replace (assuming I could find a replacement). Many thanks for any info. Rob Roberts Selah 77 Cal 3/34 Destin, Fl ai… [at] aol.com wrote: Hi Tom, are you sure it is salt build-up? You have the Universal 5411, raw water, diesel, right? When I bought my boat, the exit hose will gurgle and spit, pour enough acid into the block so it just starts coming out of the exit hose and into the bucket. I let it set for a couple of hours, going back every so often and pouring a little more acid in. I knew it was working because there was a orangeish/blackish gook coming out. After a few hours I carefully lowered the bucket and drained the acid from the block. I then attached a garden hose and flushed thoroughly. Make sure to take the this stuff seriously enough to have full skin and eye protection as well as a respirator, fan, and a bucket of fresh water or hose on hand in case of emergencies, spills, etc.. If you have any more questions let me know. Daniel Casey "Air Time" Cal 9.2R #75 Santa Barbara, Ca.

Hi Rob, --- Robin roberts <re… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > Along the same lines, We have an original Westerbeke > 30, fresh water cooled, which has recently started > overheating at full throttle. Impeller is good, but > raw water flow does not seem as good as it should > be, maybe water jacket is obstructed. ***Check the entire cooling system first. 1-Check to be sure the sea cock is fully open and not clogged. Remove the hose to the strainer and see how much raw water flows. Careful, you could sink your boat. 2-If an adequate flow exists, clean the strainer which usually includes removing the basket and cleaning it. Be sure your sea cock is closed. 3-Assure there are no kinks or blockages in the intake hoses. Carefully examine, then remove the hose where it goes into the raw water pump, open the sea cock and see how much water flows. 4-Take the cover off the raw water pump, examine it carefully, the cover plate is not excessively worn, the cam that deflects the vanes of the impeller is not too worn ( salt water is corrosive) and the impeller is okay. If any question about the pump, replace it or rebuild it. Parts are available from Depco Pumps in Clearwater. 5- Now you have done the easy items. Flushing the water jacket on the exhaust manifold is not too difficult. Once a year I give my engines a routine maintenance flush. I have a tee with a valve between the strainer and the raw water pump that has a female garden hose fitting. I put about 3 gallons of fresh water in a 5 gallon bucket, then VERY carefully add a gallon of muriatic acid. Place the intake hose into the bucket, start the engine, when the bucket is empty, kill the engine, enjoy a cold Sam Adams, think about the joy of sailing and after about 30 minutes, fill the bucket with fresh water, allow the garden hose to dribble into the bucket while you restart the engine. Rush to the stern so you can see all of the black gook come out the exhaust. Then I introduce a little bicorbanate of soda into the bucket to completely nuetralize the acid. BTW, be sure none of the Enviro-Nazis see this. Often the water induction elbow into the exhaust will corrode to an extent that is limits the flow of water. If after your acid flush little water still flows, this may be your problem - Now that is a nasty job, replacing that POS. It's too late and this old man is sleepy, so will finish the recirculating coolant system tomorrow. Tom Vandiver, Cal 46 & Cal 25 on Bayou Chico, FL Would the same > method apply? The water jacket is a royal pain to > get to, let alone replace (assuming I could find a > replacement). > > > Many thanks for any info. > > Rob Roberts > Selah > 77 Cal 3/34 > Destin, Fl > > > ai… [at] aol.com wrote: > Hi Tom, are you sure it is salt > build-up? You have the Universal 5411, raw water, > diesel, right? > When I bought my boat, the cooling passages were > pretty clogged and the engine would overheat within > a couple minutes. I assumed it was rust flakes, > being that the engine was not run very often, so I > used straight muriatic acid and it worked like a > charm. I have not had any problems since. > I disconnected the 2 hoses (water entry and exit) > from the block, actually I disconnected them at the > other end leaving them attached to the block. I tied > the inlet hose up as high as I as I could and stuck > a funnel in it. The exit hose was put into a bucket > which was raised up high enough to not drain the > acid out of the block, as it was SLOWLY poured into > the funnel. Cover the bucket with a wet towel > because the exit hose will gurgle and spit, pour > enough acid into the block so it just starts coming > out of the exit hose and into the bucket. I let it > set for a couple of hours, going back every so often > and pouring a little more acid in. I knew it was > working because there was a orangeish/blackish gook > coming out. After a few hours I carefully lowered > the bucket and drained the acid from the block. I > then attached a garden hose and flushed thoroughly. > Make sure to take the this stuff seriously enough > to have full skin and eye protection as well as a > respirator, fan, and a bucket of fresh water or hose > on hand in case of emergencies, spills, etc.. > If you have any more questions let me know. > > > Daniel Casey > "Air Time" > Cal 9.2R #75 > Santa Barbara, Ca. > > > >

Rob In my 1977 Cal 34 3 I had the same problem. What I found in my boat was that the routing of the exhaust hose kinked as it went back. When I redid my exhaust system, I added fiberglass 90 degree turns where the hose previously bent. What a difference in the water flow that made and dropped the temp. significantly. Greg ----- Original Message ----- From: Robin roberts To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 8:51 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] How to remove salt build-up from inboard diesel Along the same lines, We have an original Westerbeke 30, fresh water cooled, which has recently started overheating at full throttle. Impeller is good, but raw water flow does not seem as good as it should be, maybe water jacket is obstructed. Would the same method apply? The water jacket is a royal pain to get to, let alone replace (assuming I could find a replacement). Many thanks for any info. Rob Roberts Selah 77 Cal 3/34 Destin, Fl ai… [at] aol.com wrote: Hi Tom, are you sure it is salt build-up? You have the Universal 5411, raw water, diesel, right? When I bought my boat, the cooling passages were pretty clogged and the engine would overheat within a couple minutes. I assumed it was rust flakes, being that the engine was not run very often, so I used straight muriatic acid and it worked like a charm. I have not had any problems since. I disconnected the 2 hoses (water entry and exit) from the block, actually I disconnected them at the other end leaving them attached to the block. I tied the inlet hose up as high as I as I could and stuck a funnel in it. The exit hose was put into a bucket which was raised up high enough to not drain the acid out of the block, as it was SLOWLY poured into the funnel. Cover the bucket with a wet towel because the exit hose will gurgle and spit, pour enough acid into the block so it just starts coming out of the exit hose and into the bucket. I let it set for a couple of hours, going back every so often and pouring a little more acid in. I knew it was working because there was a orangeish/blackish gook coming out. After a few hours I carefully lowered the bucket and drained the acid from the block. I then attached a garden hose and flushed thoroughly. Make sure to take the this stuff seriously enough to have full skin and eye protection as well as a respirator, fan, and a bucket of fresh water or hose on hand in case of emergencies, spills, etc.. If you have any more questions let me know. Daniel Casey "Air Time" Cal 9.2R #75 Santa Barbara, Ca.

Tom, That yearly flush seams like a good idea. Does the acid damage rubber raw water pump impellers or the hoses? Thanks. Dave 80 Cal 35 Runnin Late Coyote Pt, SF Bay Tom Vandiver <bs… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: Hi Rob, --- Robin roberts <re… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > Along the same lines, We have an original Westerbeke > 30, fresh water cooled, which has recently started > overheating at full throttle. Impeller is good, but > raw water flow does not seem as good as it should > be, maybe water jacket is obstructed. ***Check the entire cooling system first. 1-Check to be sure the sea cock is fully open and not clogged. Remove the hose to the strainer and see how much raw water flows. Careful, you could sink your boat. 2-If an adequate flow exists, clean the strainer which usually includes removing the basket and cleaning it. Be sure your sea cock is closed. 3-Assure there are no kinks or blockages in the intake hoses. Carefully examine, then remove the hose where it goes into the raw water pump, open the sea cock and see how much water flows. 4-Take the cover off the raw water pump, examine it carefully, the cover plate is not excessively worn, the cam that deflects the vanes of the impeller is not too worn ( salt water is corrosive) and the impeller is okay. If any question about the pump, replace it or rebuild it. Parts are available from Depco Pumps in Clearwater. 5- Now you have done the easy items. Flushing the water jacket on the exhaust manifold is not too difficult. Once a year I give my engines a routine maintenance flush. I have a tee with a valve between the strainer and the raw water pump that has a female garden hose fitting. I put about 3 gallons of fresh water in a 5 gallon bucket, then VERY carefully add a gallon of muriatic acid. Place the intake hose into the bucket, start the engine, when the bucket is empty, kill the engine, enjoy a cold Sam Adams, think about the joy of sailing and after about 30 minutes, fill the bucket with fresh water, allow the garden hose to dribble into the bucket while you restart the engine. Rush to the stern so you can see all of the black gook come out the exhaust. Then I introduce a little bicorbanate of soda into the bucket to completely nuetralize the acid. BTW, be sure none of the Enviro-Nazis see this. Often the water induction elbow into the exhaust will corrode to an extent that is limits the flow of water. If after your acid flush little water still flows, this may be your problem - Now that is a nasty job, replacing that POS. It's too late and this old man is sleepy, so will finish the recirculating coolant system tomorrow. Tom Vandiver, Cal 46 & Cal 25 on Bayou Chico, FL Would the same > method apply? The water jacket is a royal pain to > get to, let alone replace (assuming I could find a > replacement). > > > Many thanks for any info. > > Rob Roberts > Selah > 77 Cal 3/34 > Destin, Fl > > > ai… [at] aol.com wrote: > Hi Tom, are you sure it is salt > build-up? You have the Universal 5411, raw water, > diesel, right? > When I bought my boat, the cooling passages were > pretty clogged and the engine would overheat within > a couple minutes. I assumed it was rust flakes, > being that the engine was not run very often, so I > used straight muriatic acid and it worked like a > charm. I have not had any problems since. > I disconnected the 2 hoses (water entry and exit) > from the block, actually I disconnected them at the > other end leaving them attached to the block. I tied > the inlet hose up as high as I as I could and stuck > a funnel in it. The exit hose was put into a bucket > which was raised up high enough to not drain the > acid out of the block, as it was SLOWLY poured into > the funnel. Cover the bucket with a wet towel > because the exit hose will gurgle and spit, pour > enough acid into the block so it just starts coming > out of the exit hose and into the bucket. I let it > set for a couple of hours, going back every so often > and pouring a little more acid in. I knew it was > working because there was a orangeish/blackish gook > coming out. After a few hours I carefully lowered > the bucket and drained the acid from the block. I > then attached a garden hose and flushed thoroughly. > Make sure to take the this stuff seriously enough > to have full skin and eye protection as well as a > respirator, fan, and a bucket of fresh water or hose > on hand in case of emergencies, spills, etc.. > If you have any more questions let me know. > > > Daniel Casey > "Air Time" > Cal 9.2R #75 > Santa Barbara, Ca. > > > > --------------------------------- How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger’s low PC-to-Phone call rates.

Tom, Many thanks for the info. We will probably attack the job this weekend. We have fabricated and replaced the induction elbow to exhaust already. As you pointed out corrosion was excessive at that point, and we suspect obstruction at the water jacket as well. Strainer has been cleaned, and all hoses are new. Impeller was checked a couple of months ago, but we may have lost a vane, etc. so we will pull it apart again. We will take it step by step as you suggest. I don't even want to try to replace the water jacket unless absolutely necessary. Once again, many thanks. BTW Found another Cal in Destin Harbor yesterday. Looks to be a 60s or early 70s, 29 or 30, but couldn't find serial number on hull. Didn't know there were any others in our area. Eventually hope to hook up with the owner & maybe get them on the list as well. Take care, and God's blessings to you Rob Roberts Selah 77 Cal 3/34 #56 Tom Vandiver <bs… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: Hi Rob, --- Robin roberts <re… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > Along the same lines, We have an original Westerbeke > 30, fresh water cooled, which has recently started > overheating at full throttle. Impeller is good, but > raw water flow does not seem as good as it should > be, maybe water jacket is obstructed. ***Check the entire cooling system first. 1-Check to be sure the sea cock is fully open and not clogged. Remove the hose to the strainer and see how much raw water flows. Careful, you could sink your boat. 2-If an adequate flow exists, clean the strainer which usually includes removing the basket and cleaning it. Be sure your sea cock is closed. 3-Assure there are no kinks or blockages in the intake hoses. Carefully examine, then remove the hose where it goes into the raw water pump, open the sea cock and see how much water flows. 4-Take the cover off the raw water pump, examine it carefully, the cover plate is not excessively worn, the cam that deflects the vanes of the impeller is not too worn ( salt water is corrosive) and the impeller is okay. If any question about the pump, replace it or rebuild it. Parts are available from Depco Pumps in Clearwater. 5- Now you have done the easy items. Flushing the water jacket on the exhaust manifold is not too difficult. Once a year I give my engines a routine maintenance flush. I have a tee with a valve between the strainer and the raw water pump that has a female garden hose fitting. I put about 3 gallons of fresh water in a 5 gallon bucket, then VERY carefully add a gallon of muriatic acid. Place the intake hose into the bucket, start the engine, when the bucket is empty, kill the engine, enjoy a cold Sam Adams, think about the joy of sailing and after about 30 minutes, fill the bucket with fresh water, allow the garden hose to dribble into the bucket while you restart the engine. Rush to the stern so you can see all of the black gook come out the exhaust. Then I introduce a little bicorbanate of soda into the bucket to completely nuetralize the acid. BTW, be sure none of the Enviro-Nazis see this. Often the water induction elbow into the exhaust will corrode to an extent that is limits the flow of water. If after your acid flush little water still flows, this may be your problem - Now that is a nasty job, replacing that POS. It's too late and this old man is sleepy, so will finish the recirculating coolant system tomorrow. Tom Vandiver, Cal 46 & Cal 25 on Bayou Chico, FL Would the same > method apply? The water jacket is a royal pain to > get to, let alone replace (assuming I could find a > replacement). > > > Many thanks for any info. > > Rob Roberts > Selah > 77 Cal 3/34 > Destin, Fl > > > ai… [at] aol.com wrote: > Hi Tom, are you sure it is salt > build-up? You have the Universal 5411, raw water, > diesel, right? > When I bought my boat, the cooling passages were > pretty clogged and the engine would overheat within > a couple minutes. I assumed it was rust flakes, > being that the engine was not run very often, so I > used straight muriatic acid and it worked like a > charm. I have not had any problems since. > I disconnected the 2 hoses (water entry and exit) > from the block, actually I disconnected them at the > other end leaving them attached to the block. I tied > the inlet hose up as high as I as I could and stuck > a funnel in it. The exit hose was put into a bucket > which was raised up high enough to not drain the > acid out of the block, as it was SLOWLY poured into > the funnel. Cover the bucket with a wet towel > because the exit hose will gurgle and spit, pour > enough acid into the block so it just starts coming > out of the exit hose and into the bucket. I let it > set for a couple of hours, going back every so often > and pouring a little more acid in. I knew it was > working because there was a orangeish/blackish gook > coming out. After a few hours I carefully lowered > the bucket and drained the acid from the block. I > then attached a garden hose and flushed thoroughly. > Make sure to take the this stuff seriously enough > to have full skin and eye protection as well as a > respirator, fan, and a bucket of fresh water or hose > on hand in case of emergencies, spills, etc.. > If you have any more questions let me know. > > > Daniel Casey > "Air Time" > Cal 9.2R #75 > Santa Barbara, Ca. > > > >

Greg, Many thanks for the reply, I'm going to check that out, as well as go through the steps Tom has outlined. Hopefully we will soon be at full throttle again. no water skiing, but it makes for a faster return when the wind dies. Take care, and God Bless Rob Sail Away <Sv… [at] optonline.net> wrote: Rob In my 1977 Cal 34 3 I had the same problem. What I found in my boat was that the routing of the exhaust hose kinked as it went back. When I redid my exhaust system, I added fiberglass 90 degree turns where the hose previously bent. What a difference in the water flow that made and dropped the temp. significantly. Greg ----- Original Message ----- From: Robin roberts To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 8:51 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] How to remove salt build-up from inboard diesel Along the same lines, We have an original Westerbeke 30, fresh water cooled, which has recently started overheating at full throttle. Impeller is good, but raw water flow does not seem as good as it should be, maybe water jacket is obstructed. Would the same method apply? The water jacket is a royal pain to get to, let alone replace (assuming I could find a replacement). Many thanks for any info. Rob Roberts Selah 77 Cal 3/34 Destin, Fl ai… [at] aol.com wrote: Hi Tom, are you sure it is salt build-up? You have the Universal 5411, raw water, diesel, right? When I bought my boat, the cooling passages were pretty clogged and the engine would overheat within a couple minutes. I assumed it was rust flakes, being that the engine was not run very often, so I used straight muriatic acid and it worked like a charm. I have not had any problems since. I disconnected the 2 hoses (water entry and exit) from the block, actually I disconnected them at the other end leaving them attached to the block. I tied the inlet hose up as high as I as I could and stuck a funnel in it. The exit hose was put into a bucket which was raised up high enough to not drain the acid out of the block, as it was SLOWLY poured into the funnel. Cover the bucket with a wet towel because the exit hose will gurgle and spit, pour enough acid into the block so it just starts coming out of the exit hose and into the bucket. I let it set for a couple of hours, going back every so often and pouring a little more acid in. I knew it was working because there was a orangeish/blackish gook coming out. After a few hours I carefully lowered the bucket and drained the acid from the block. I then attached a garden hose and flushed thoroughly. Make sure to take the this stuff seriously enough to have full skin and eye protection as well as a respirator, fan, and a bucket of fresh water or hose on hand in case of emergencies, spills, etc.. If you have any more questions let me know. Daniel Casey "Air Time" Cal 9.2R #75 Santa Barbara, Ca.

Hi Dave, --- biggs dave <im… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > Tom, > > That yearly flush seams like a good idea. Does > the acid damage rubber raw water pump impellers or > the hoses? *** I don't think any damage is significant. I have been doing it on Satori since 1982. Impeller wear seems to be about the same as other folks. A $17 impeller is a lots less expensive than an engine rebuild. Perhaps one of our chemist Cal Folks can answer?> Tom > Coyote Pt, SF Bay > > Tom Vandiver <bs… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > Hi Rob, > > --- Robin roberts <re… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > > > Along the same lines, We have an original > Westerbeke > > 30, fresh water cooled, which has recently started > > overheating at full throttle. Impeller is good, > but > > raw water flow does not seem as good as it should > > be, maybe water jacket is obstructed. > > ***Check the entire cooling system first. > 1-Check to be sure the sea cock is fully open and > not > clogged. Remove the hose to the strainer and see how > much raw water flows. Careful, you could sink your > boat. > 2-If an adequate flow exists, clean the strainer > which > usually includes removing the basket and cleaning > it. > Be sure your sea cock is closed. > 3-Assure there are no kinks or blockages in the > intake > hoses. Carefully examine, then remove the hose where > it goes into the raw water pump, open the sea cock > and > see how much water flows. > 4-Take the cover off the raw water pump, examine it > carefully, the cover plate is not excessively worn, > the cam that deflects the vanes of the impeller is > not > too worn ( salt water is corrosive) and the impeller > is okay. If any question about the pump, replace it > or > rebuild it. Parts are available from Depco Pumps in > Clearwater. > 5- Now you have done the easy items. > Flushing the water jacket on the exhaust manifold is > not too difficult. Once a year I give my engines a > routine maintenance flush. I have a tee with a valve > between the strainer and the raw water pump that has > a > female garden hose fitting. I put about 3 gallons of > fresh water in a 5 gallon bucket, then VERY > carefully > add a gallon of muriatic acid. Place the intake hose > into the bucket, start the engine, when the bucket > is > empty, kill the engine, enjoy a cold Sam Adams, > think > about the joy of sailing and after about 30 minutes, > fill the bucket with fresh water, allow the garden > hose to dribble into the bucket while you restart > the > engine. > Rush to the stern so you can see all of the black > gook > come out the exhaust. Then I introduce a little > bicorbanate of soda into the bucket to completely > nuetralize the acid. > BTW, be sure none of the Enviro-Nazis see this. > > Often the water induction elbow into the exhaust > will > corrode to an extent that is limits the flow of > water. > If after your acid flush little water still flows, > this may be your problem - Now that is a nasty job, > replacing that POS. > > It's too late and this old man is sleepy, so will > finish the recirculating coolant system tomorrow. > > Tom Vandiver, Cal 46 & Cal 25 on Bayou Chico, FL > > Would the same > > method apply? The water jacket is a royal pain to > > get to, let alone replace (assuming I could find a > > replacement). > > > > > > Many thanks for any info. > > > > Rob Roberts > > Selah > > 77 Cal 3/34 > > Destin, Fl > > > > > > ai… [at] aol.com wrote: > > Hi Tom, are you sure it is salt > > build-up? You have the Universal 5411, raw water, > > diesel, right? > > When I bought my boat, the cooling passages were > > pretty clogged and the engine would overheat > within > > a couple minutes. I assumed it was rust flakes, > > being that the engine was not run very often, so I > > used straight muriatic acid and it worked like a > > charm. I have not had any problems since. > > I disconnected the 2 hoses (water entry and exit) > > from the block, actually I disconnected them at > the > > other end leaving them attached to the block. I > tied > > the inlet hose up as high as I as I could and > stuck > > a funnel in it. The exit hose was put into a > bucket > > which was raised up high enough to not drain the > > acid out of the block, as it was SLOWLY poured > into > > the funnel. Cover the bucket with a wet towel > > because the exit hose will gurgle and spit, pour > > enough acid into the block so it just starts > coming > > out of the exit hose and into the bucket. I let it > > set for a couple of hours, going back every so > often > > and pouring a little more acid in. I knew it was > > working because there was a orangeish/blackish > gook > > coming out. After a few hours I carefully lowered > > the bucket and drained the acid from the block. I > > then attached a garden hose and flushed > thoroughly. > > Make sure to take the this stuff seriously enough > > to have full skin and eye protection as well as a > > respirator, fan, and a bucket of fresh water or > hose > > on hand in case of emergencies, spills, etc.. > > If you have any more questions let me know. > > > > > > Daniel Casey > > "Air Time" > > Cal 9.2R #75 > > Santa Barbara, Ca. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --------------------------------- > How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger’s low > PC-to-Phone call rates.

Dave I might add one item to the long list of things to check. I think your boat might have a raw water cooled V-drive. Make sure you don't have a obstruction in it's water jacket.. Chuck Cal 2-34 Second Fiddle Tom Vandiver <bs… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: Hi Dave, --- biggs dave <im… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > Tom, > > That yearly flush seams like a good idea. Does > the acid damage rubber raw water pump impellers or > the hoses? *** I don't think any damage is significant. I have been doing it on Satori since 1982. Impeller wear seems to be about the same as other folks. A $17 impeller is a lots less expensive than an engine rebuild. Perhaps one of our chemist Cal Folks can answer?> Tom > Coyote Pt, SF Bay > > Tom Vandiver <bs… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > Hi Rob, > > --- Robin roberts <re… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > > > Along the same lines, We have an original > Westerbeke > > 30, fresh water cooled, which has recently started > > overheating at full throttle. Impeller is good, > but > > raw water flow does not seem as good as it should > > be, maybe water jacket is obstructed. > > ***Check the entire cooling system first. > 1-Check to be sure the sea cock is fully open and > not > clogged. Remove the hose to the strainer and see how > much raw water flows. Careful, you could sink your > boat. > 2-If an adequate flow exists, clean the strainer > which > usually includes removing the basket and cleaning > it. > Be sure your sea cock is closed. > 3-Assure there are no kinks or blockages in the > intake > hoses. Carefully examine, then remove the hose where > it goes into the raw water pump, open the sea cock > and > see how much water flows. > 4-Take the cover off the raw water pump, examine it > carefully, the cover plate is not excessively worn, > the cam that deflects the vanes of the impeller is > not > too worn ( salt water is corrosive) and the impeller > is okay. If any question about the pump, replace it > or > rebuild it. Parts are available from Depco Pumps in > Clearwater. > 5- Now you have done the easy items. > Flushing the water jacket on the exhaust manifold is > not too difficult. Once a year I give my engines a > routine maintenance flush. I have a tee with a valve > between the strainer and the raw water pump that has > a > female garden hose fitting. I put about 3 gallons of > fresh water in a 5 gallon bucket, then VERY > carefully > add a gallon of muriatic acid. Place the intake hose > into the bucket, start the engine, when the bucket > is > empty, kill the engine, enjoy a cold Sam Adams, > think > about the joy of sailing and after about 30 minutes, > fill the bucket with fresh water, allow the garden > hose to dribble into the bucket while you restart > the > engine. > Rush to the stern so you can see all of the black > gook > come out the exhaust. Then I introduce a little > bicorbanate of soda into the bucket to completely > nuetralize the acid. > BTW, be sure none of the Enviro-Nazis see this. > > Often the water induction elbow into the exhaust > will > corrode to an extent that is limits the flow of > water. > If after your acid flush little water still flows, > this may be your problem - Now that is a nasty job, > replacing that POS. > > It's too late and this old man is sleepy, so will > finish the recirculating coolant system tomorrow. > > Tom Vandiver, Cal 46 & Cal 25 on Bayou Chico, FL > > Would the same > > method apply? The water jacket is a royal pain to > > get to, let alone replace (assuming I could find a > > replacement). > > > > > > Many thanks for any info. > > > > Rob Roberts > > Selah > > 77 Cal 3/34 > > Destin, Fl > > > > > > ai… [at] aol.com wrote: > > Hi Tom, are you sure it is salt > > build-up? You have the Universal 5411, raw water, > > diesel, right? > > When I bought my boat, the cooling passages were > > pretty clogged and the engine would overheat > within > > a couple minutes. I assumed it was rust flakes, > > being that the engine was not run very often, so I > > used straight muriatic acid and it worked like a > > charm. I have not had any problems since. > > I disconnected the 2 hoses (water entry and exit) > > from the block, actually I disconnected them at > the > > other end leaving them attached to the block. I > tied > > the inlet hose up as high as I as I could and > stuck > > a funnel in it. The exit hose was put into a > bucket > > which was raised up high enough to not drain the > > acid out of the block, as it was SLOWLY poured > into > > the funnel. Cover the bucket with a wet towel > > because the exit hose will gurgle and spit, pour > > enough acid into the block so it just starts > coming > > out of the exit hose and into the bucket. I let it > > set for a couple of hours, going back every so > often > > and pouring a little more acid in. I knew it was > > working because there was a orangeish/blackish > gook > > coming out. After a few hours I carefully lowered > > the bucket and drained the acid from the block. I > > then attached a garden hose and flushed > thoroughly. > > Make sure to take the this stuff seriously enough > > to have full skin and eye protection as well as a > > respirator, fan, and a bucket of fresh water or > hose > > on hand in case of emergencies, spills, etc.. > > If you have any more questions let me know. > > > > > > Daniel Casey > > "Air Time" > > Cal 9.2R #75 > > Santa Barbara, Ca. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --------------------------------- > How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger’s low > PC-to-Phone call rates. --------------------------------- Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr. We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business.

I have a Westerbeke 30 in my boat that at times would be just fine right at 180 deg, and sometimes start climing higher with less water flow. The raw water path after the pump is throught the oil cooler/heatexchainger, then cooling for the xmission, then the reversing gear, then to the eng heat exchainger and onto the exhaust. I broke the hose off the pump and it would really gush out. I jumped to the reverse gear (easy to get to) and it just dribbled out. What I found was a couple old pump empeller blades at the intake of the oil cooler. Wish ya luck Norm Chuck Lennox <le… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: Dave I might add one item to the long list of things to check. I think your boat might have a raw water cooled V-drive. Make sure you don't have a obstruction in it's water jacket.. Chuck Cal 2-34 Second Fiddle Tom Vandiver <bs… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: Hi Dave, --- biggs dave <im… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > Tom, > > That yearly flush seams like a good idea. Does > the acid damage rubber raw water pump impellers or > the hoses? *** I don't think any damage is significant. I have been doing it on Satori since 1982. Impeller wear seems to be about the same as other folks. A $17 impeller is a lots less expensive than an engine rebuild. Perhaps one of our chemist Cal Folks can answer?> Tom > Coyote Pt, SF Bay > > Tom Vandiver <bs… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > Hi Rob, > > --- Robin roberts <re… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > > > Along the same lines, We have an original > Westerbeke > > 30, fresh water cooled, which has recently started > > overheating at full throttle. Impeller is good, > but > > raw water flow does not seem as good as it should > > be, maybe water jacket is obstructed. > > ***Check the entire cooling system first. > 1-Check to be sure the sea cock is fully open and > not > clogged. Remove the hose to the strainer and see how > much raw water flows. Careful, you could sink your > boat. > 2-If an adequate flow exists, clean the strainer > which > usually includes removing the basket and cleaning > it. > Be sure your sea cock is closed. > 3-Assure there are no kinks or blockages in the > intake > hoses. Carefully examine, then remove the hose where > it goes into the raw water pump, open the sea cock > and > see how much water flows. > 4-Take the cover off the raw water pump, examine it > carefully, the cover plate is not excessively worn, > the cam that deflects the vanes of the impeller is > not > too worn ( salt water is corrosive) and the impeller > is okay. If any question about the pump, replace it > or > rebuild it. Parts are available from Depco Pumps in > Clearwater. > 5- Now you have done the easy items. > Flushing the water jacket on the exhaust manifold is > not too difficult. Once a year I give my engines a > routine maintenance flush. I have a tee with a valve > between the strainer and the raw water pump that has > a > female garden hose fitting. I put about 3 gallons of > fresh water in a 5 gallon bucket, then VERY > carefully > add a gallon of muriatic acid. Place the intake hose > into the bucket, start the engine, when the bucket > is > empty, kill the engine, enjoy a cold Sam Adams, > think > about the joy of sailing and after about 30 minutes, > fill the bucket with fresh water, allow the garden > hose to dribble into the bucket while you restart > the > engine. > Rush to the stern so you can see all of the black > gook > come out the exhaust. Then I introduce a little > bicorbanate of soda into the bucket to completely > nuetralize the acid. > BTW, be sure none of the Enviro-Nazis see this. > > Often the water induction elbow into the exhaust > will > corrode to an extent that is limits the flow of > water. > If after your acid flush little water still flows, > this may be your problem - Now that is a nasty job, > replacing that POS. > > It's too late and this old man is sleepy, so will > finish the recirculating coolant system tomorrow. > > Tom Vandiver, Cal 46 & Cal 25 on Bayou Chico, FL > > Would the same > > method apply? The water jacket is a royal pain to > > get to, let alone replace (assuming I could find a > > replacement). > > > > > > Many thanks for any info. > > > > Rob Roberts > > Selah > > 77 Cal 3/34 > > Destin, Fl > > > > > > ai… [at] aol.com wrote: > > Hi Tom, are you sure it is salt > > build-up? You have the Universal 5411, raw water, > > diesel, right? > > When I bought my boat, the cooling passages were > > pretty clogged and the engine would overheat > within > > a couple minutes. I assumed it was rust flakes, > > being that the engine was not run very often, so I > > used straight muriatic acid and it worked like a > > charm. I have not had any problems since. > > I disconnected the 2 hoses (water entry and exit) > > from the block, actually I disconnected them at > the > > other end leaving them attached to the block. I > tied > > the inlet hose up as high as I as I could and > stuck > > a funnel in it. The exit hose was put into a > bucket > > which was raised up high enough to not drain the > > acid out of the block, as it was SLOWLY poured > into > > the funnel. Cover the bucket with a wet towel > > because the exit hose will gurgle and spit, pour > > enough acid into the block so it just starts > coming > > out of the exit hose and into the bucket. I let it > > set for a couple of hours, going back every so > often > > and pouring a little more acid in. I knew it was > > working because there was a orangeish/blackish > gook > > coming out. After a few hours I carefully lowered > > the bucket and drained the acid from the block. I > > then attached a garden hose and flushed > thoroughly. > > Make sure to take the this stuff seriously enough > > to have full skin and eye protection as well as a > > respirator, fan, and a bucket of fresh water or > hose > > on hand in case of emergencies, spills, etc.. > > If you have any more questions let me know. > > > > > > Daniel Casey > > "Air Time" > > Cal 9.2R #75 > > Santa Barbara, Ca. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --------------------------------- > How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger’s low > PC-to-Phone call rates. --------------------------------- Get your own web address for just $1.99/1st yr. We'll help. Yahoo! Small Business. --------------------------------- Yahoo! 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