Re: [Cal_Boats] Farymann specifications

Lord Nougat2006-10-25 23:01 UTC

This might be helpful: http://nougats.org/~lord_nougat/FarymannDiesel_A30M-A40M-K30M-R30M-P30M-S30M_InstManual.pdf From: grahamrevans <gr… [at] hotmail.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 9:33:25 AM Subject: [Cal_Boats] Farymann specifications John, I have the Farymann torn down and it turned out the water line was partially blocked which casued it to overheat and blow the head gasket. I have cleaned it up and bought the parts from PRP to rebuild it, but will have a qualified mechanic do the reassembly and test. He wants to know the specs for the engine. I understand it is a Farymann A30M, but the manual you sent does not have that model listed in the spec sheet on page 9. I am guessing (based on it being 12hp 1 cylinder) the A30M is the marine watercooled version and the specs are the same as either the A12 or A22 on page 9. Do you know which set of specs is correct? Thanks, Graham --- In Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com, "John Caldwell" <jacaldwell@ ...> wrote: > > I'll drop a disk in the mail today. Total size of all files is over > 60mb, so much too bing to email. > > I would suspect that most Farymanns have had an inline fuel filter > added. If yours has, be sure to check that the paper filter has > been removed from the stock confirguration. There's a little filter > bowl on the starboard side tight to the block and under the > alternator. > > It's a pain and I don't know of any easy way to get it off and back > on. > > There's a little hand primer on the pump, and pushing that a few > times might give you an idea of how the diaphram is pumping. If it > feels weak, it probably is. The right way to do it would be to put > a gauge on the fuel line after the pump and see what you get when > you crank it. > > The fuel system is supposed to be self-bleeding, but I question it > sometimes. Cracking that line at the injector loose while pumping > fuel will push any air out of the line, then tighten it while it's > pumping fluid. It's like bleeding brakes on a car. > > Fuel not used by the engine cycles back to the tank. When I first > changed to the electric pump I was changing the fuel filter every > couple of weeks, getting a little longer in between changes as time > went on and as fuel from the tank cycled through the filter. > > John > > > --- In Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com, "grahamrevans" <grahamrevans@ > > wrote: > > > > Hi John, > > > > I was trying to take advantage of Rocky's expertise and learn as > much > > as possible from him during the trip. He indicated the flow of > water > > from the exhaust looked adequate. I did have the marina drain and > > replace the diesel fuel before the trip and Rocky and I replaced > the > > filter in the Raycor before we started out. > > > > I think we just pushed it too hard and the oil was low, but the > fuel > > pump certainly is a possibility. What is the easiest way to check > it > > out? Should I disconnect the injector, turn the hand crank and > watch > > for fuel coming from the injector? Will this introduce air into > the > > system that has to be purged somehow? Is there any gasket that > will > > need to be replaced if I pull the injector? > > > > The manuals would be fantastic; I really appreciate you offering > to > > send them. My address is: > > Graham Evans > > 6500 Andes Court > > Woodbridge, VA 22193-3308 > > > > I do have a high speed internet connection and my email does > handle > > large attachments if you want to give that a try > > (grahamrevans@ ). > > > > Thanks to you and others who have responded. This group is a > great > > source of valuable information and truely helpful individuals. > > Hopefully I can get Nefertiti under sail soon and look forward to > > meeting new friends. > > > > Graham > > > > > > --- In Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com, "John Caldwell" <jacaldwell@ > > > wrote: > > > > > > Hi Graham, > > > > > > The Farymann is a good little engine. Your overheating may have > > > been due to a dirty sea water filter not allowing water to flow > > > through. Make sure that stays clean. If the filter is clean > and > > > you're not seeing a good pulse of water out of the exhaust, the > > > water jackets might be clogged. If so, check out a Beta Marine > > > 13.5hp as a replacement. > > > > > > The Farymann doesn't use a glow plug and can be hand-started. > > > That's one of the reasons that they are used as pumps at nuclear > > > plants as they can be started without a battery. > > > > > > Also be sure to check the exhaust elbow to make sure it hasn't > > > corroded through at the bend. > > > > > > From your description of the engine running more and more > slowing > > > and now not starting, it could be the fuel pump. As the fuel > pump > > > wears out and pumps less, the engine slows and eventually won't > > > start/run. I replaced mine w/ an electric and I can easily > motor > > at > > > hull speed. > > > > > > I've got manuals for the Cal 29 & the Farymann. They're too big > > for > > > a download, but if you send me you address, I'll send them to > you > > on > > > CD. > > > > > > If you keep the Farymann, get to know Ralph at PRP (Parts R > Parts) > > > in New Jersy. > > > > > > BTW, the black stuff coming out the exhaust is just soot. > > Tiffany's > > > (a.k.a. West Marine) has an additive that will help. > > > > > > John > > > > > > > > > --- In Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com, "grahamrevans" <grahamrevans@ > > > > wrote: > > > > > > > > VA. Since I only have a little experience as crew years ago, > I > > > > brought along a friend with yers of experience. There was no > > wind > > > so > > > > we had to motor. There seemed to be exhaust fumes in the > cabin > > so > > > we > > > > figured we had a leak of some sort, but could not see the > source > > > and > > > > pressed on. After several hours the engine overheated > (despite > > > the > > > > gauge reading 130) and melted the insulation off some of the > > wires > > > > which shorted out. I managed to splice all but one of the > wires > > > back > > > > together. I checked the oil and the level appeared okay > although > > > it > > > > looked dirty or maybe scorched from the heat. As the engine > had > > > > cooled down we started it up and it seemed to be running > fine. > > > Rocky > > > > thought he might have been pushing it a bit too hard so he > > > throttled > > > > it back some. This also eliminated the exhaust smell in the > > > cabin. > > > > After many hours motoring, we were about 2 miles out from > > Quantico > > > > when I noticed the engine was slowing down. It was midnight > and > > > very > > > > dark, but I thought it looked like there was smoke coming from > > the > > > > exhaust. Hard to tell in the dark, but I think it was > probable > > > > white. We were about to shut it down, but it died before we > made > > > the > > > > decision. We could not restart it since the batteries were > > dead. > > > It > > > > turned out the one wire I could not trace went to the > > alternator. > > > We > > > > managed to limp in with the tide and puffs of air. Once there > > was > > > > enough light, I checked it out and realized the flare in the > > > dipstick > > > > intended to stop the dust cap from riding up had worn off over > > the > > > > years. Consequently, the dipstick was going in further than > it > > > was > > > > supposed to and the level was really low. Also the oil was > now > > > more > > > > like fudge. I was able to turn the engine (Farymann 12hp) > over > > by > > > > hand with the crank so it is not seized up, but it would not > > start > > > > with the crank. I charged the batteries back up and tried > > again. > > > It > > > > turns over, but does not seem to fire. I have never owned a > > > diesel > > > > and know very little about them. At this point I figure I > have > > at > > > > least blown a head gasket and likely scortched the rings and > > > cylinder. > > > > > >