Handrails

Matt, The holesaw (about 3") is used to drill holes at the ends of each hand hold cut-out. Then use the sabre saw to cut out the waste between each hole to form two rails attached at their bases. Curve the ends with the sabre saw . Rout the inside and outside edges and cut them apart at the appropriate angle for your overhead/cabin top. When installed, they should match-up perfectly. They should be drilled square to the tops of the rails. If you're not looking to match pre-existing holes, they can be drilled before cutting them apart (with a long enough bit!) so you know they'll match exactly. Hope that helps! Rpb "Bandit" Cal 40, #32 Oyster Bay, NY

Hi all, I have the typical marine auxiliary diesel engine exhaust system on my CAL 2-30. I replaced the Atomic 4 with a 2 cylinder Westerbeke some years ago and the previous owner designed and installed a larger fuel tank which resides under the cockpit. A good set-up has worked well for several years. My question is whether the water discharge has to be above the waterline any time the engine is running. I’m asking this because I have never filled my diesel fuel tank (capacity 40 gallons) more than ½ until yesterday. While underway and under power, the exhaust discharge (at the original location) is now submerged due to the extra weight in the stern. Anyone have any insight on this? I know about the siphoning problems; but when the boat is at rest or under sail, the exhaust outlet is above the waterline. -John 1968 CAL 2-30 Hull #4 _____ From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Rob Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2006 7:17 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: [Cal_Boats] Handrails Matt, The holesaw (about 3") is used to drill holes at the ends of each hand hold cut-out. Then use the sabre saw to cut out the waste between each hole to form two rails attached at their bases. Curve the ends with the sabre saw . Rout the inside and outside edges and cut them apart at the appropriate angle for your overhead/cabin top. When installed, they should match-up perfectly. They should be drilled square to the tops of the rails. If you're not looking to match pre-existing holes, they can be drilled before cutting them apart (with a long enough bit!) so you know they'll match exactly. Hope that helps! Rpb "Bandit" Cal 40, #32 Oyster Bay, NY

My Cal 33-2 does exactly the same thing, stock from the factory. A contributing factor is that at steaming speeds the stern is buried in the stern wave. As long as there is sufficient exhaust pressure to blow the water out, I wouldn't think there would be any problem. The first thing that would happen, I think, is that the backpressure would kill the engine. Also, in my installation, the "exhaust elbow" or riser, coming out of the engine is well above the water line. A related fact is that, when bleeding your engine, you must be careful not to fill the exhaust with water while cranking without any exhaust pressure to blow the water out. IIRC my manual suggests disconnecting the raw water input to the engine while bleeding, or taking the belt off the raw water pump. Al Waschka 1985 Cal33-2 #0026, "Short Wave" 1974 Cal25 #1693, "Sweet Mary"

Thanks Al. -John Cal 2-30 _____ From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Al Waschka Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2006 11:31 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Water Lift Exhaust My Cal 33-2 does exactly the same thing, stock from the factory. A contributing factor is that at steaming speeds the stern is buried in the stern wave. As long as there is sufficient exhaust pressure to blow the water out, I wouldn't think there would be any problem. The first thing that would happen, I think, is that the backpressure would kill the engine. Also, in my installation, the "exhaust elbow" or riser, coming out of the engine is well above the water line. A related fact is that, when bleeding your engine, you must be careful not to fill the exhaust with water while cranking without any exhaust pressure to blow the water out. IIRC my manual suggests disconnecting the raw water input to the engine while bleeding, or taking the belt off the raw water pump. Al Waschka 1985 Cal33-2 #0026, "Short Wave" 1974 Cal25 #1693, "Sweet Mary"

From: John Vronay To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2006 12:29 PM Subject: [Cal_Boats] Water Lift Exhaust Hi all, I have the typical marine auxiliary diesel engine exhaust system on my CAL 2-30. I replaced the Atomic 4 with a 2 cylinder Westerbeke some years ago and the previous owner designed and installed a larger fuel tank which resides under the cockpit. A good set-up has worked well for several years. My question is whether the water discharge has to be above the waterline any time the engine is running. ****** ABYC says the exhaust thru hull should not be underwater during the normal operation of the boat. If the exhaust thru hull is on the counter, it should be changed to the stern. Ideally, it should be high enough to keep it out of the water, and close to centerline. Joe DeMers Sound Marine Diesel LLC www.soundmarinediesel.com I'm asking this because I have never filled my diesel fuel tank (capacity 40 gallons) more than ½ until yesterday. While underway and under power, the exhaust discharge (at the original location) is now submerged due to the extra weight in the stern. Anyone have any insight on this? I know about the siphoning problems; but when the boat is at rest or under sail, the exhaust outlet is above the waterline. -John 1968 CAL 2-30 Hull #4 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Rob Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2006 7:17 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: [Cal_Boats] Handrails Matt, The holesaw (about 3") is used to drill holes at the ends of each hand hold cut-out. Then use the sabre saw to cut out the waste between each hole to form two rails attached at their bases. Curve the ends with the sabre saw . Rout the inside and outside edges and cut them apart at the appropriate angle for your overhead/cabin top. When installed, they should match-up perfectly. They should be drilled square to the tops of the rails. If you're not looking to match pre-existing holes, they can be drilled before cutting them apart (with a long enough bit!) so you know they'll match exactly. Hope that helps! Rpb "Bandit" Cal 40, #32 Oyster Bay, NY