How to Properly Use Sail Repair Tape

I haven't been able to get to San Diego since December, when I tore my main. No time to convert new sail from rope, either. I did previously buy sail tape, and I was thinking it would be the quickest way to get me back on the water while I figured out my other sail problems. Question: Is there a proper technique I should be aware of? Do I just iron the tape on? No instructions received. Guess I could Google this. Thought I'd raise it with the experts here first. Thanks to all who responded to my "mineral oil" inquiry, too. At the rate I am going, I will not get back to my boat until sometime in May! Thanks, Bruce Stirling Gangfurd Cal 28 - Hull 82 http://www.stirlinglaw.com/cal28

Hello I'm extending the jib tracks on my 2-29 and need help on how to bend the new sail track any ideas would be great. Scott 2-29 1975 hull 22 Coyote pt SFbay --------------------------------- It's here! Your new message! Get new email alerts with the free Yahoo! Toolbar.

Bruce Stirling wrote: > > I haven't been able to get to San Diego since December, when I tore my > main. No time to convert new sail from rope, either. I did > previously buy sail tape, and I was thinking it would be the quickest > way to get me back on the water while I figured out my other sail > problems. > > Question: Is there a proper technique I should be aware of? Do I > just iron the tape on? > My experience with sail tape is the stuff that's sticky-backed ripstop nylon--it has the visible grid in it. I've viewed this stuff as mostly suitable for low-stress repairs like small holes and tears, but not for high-load repairs. If your main is torn in a high-load location, like along the leech or the luff, then I don't think the tape is adequate. It will hold until the wind pipes up a bit and then, when you are least in the mood for disaster, it will part. The hand stitch that's best for these repairs is the baseball stitch. I've read several articles on how to do it and they always left my head swimming. Then a friend described it by e-mail and somehow her description created a picture in my head. I still haven't tried the stitch but now it seems possible. Do a Google search on "baseball stitch" and see what you find. If no luck, e-mail me and I'll dig it out of my home computer. Better still, of course, is a zig-zag sewing machine. I've got an old straight-stitch model that I use for sail and boat covers and it would probably put a stitch in a sail, too, if the cloth were not too heavy. You can pick op old cast-iron sewing machines very cheaply. Chris Campbell

If you buy the track from Garhauer, they'll bend it for you, and drill the holes where you want. They have a great shop, but you typically need to give them a few months, on this type order. Cheers dEmO From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of scott Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2007 6:33 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Need help Bending t-track Hello I'm extending the jib tracks on my 2-29 and need help on how to bend the new sail track any ideas would be great. Scott 2-29 1975 hull 22 Coyote pt SFbay <http://geo.yahoo.com/serv?s=97359714/grpId=16485695/grpspId=1705065792/ msgId=6439/stime=1175812517/nc1=4438963/nc2=4430620/nc3=3848616> It's here! Your new message! Get new email alerts <http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=49938/*http://tools.search.yahoo.com/toolbar /features/mail/> with the free Yahoo! Toolbar. <http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=49938/*http://tools.search.yahoo.com/toolbar /features/mail/>

--- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, scott <sscot12@...> wrote: > > > > Hello > > I'm extending the jib tracks on my 2-29 and need help on how to bend the new sail track > any ideas would be great. One way is to bolt it on one bolt at a time, bending a little each time you bolt the next segment. Mike Kennedy Conquest Cal 40 # 96 > > Scott > > 2-29 1975 hull 22 Coyote pt SFbay > > > > > --------------------------------- > It's here! Your new message! > Get new email alerts with the free Yahoo! Toolbar. >

The proper use of sail tape, is like the 40mph/ 500 mile spare, in your car trunk. It's to get you home, so you can make a proper repair. Tape has almost no strength on Dacron sails. IMHO I'm assuming you have a "vintage" Dacron sail/ not new. If the tear is quite small, tape may keep the hole from snagging on something. If the tear is in any "strength location" of the sail, then tape will not work. Like the head, tack, or clew, where the tear is on the arc from the corner. What tore the sail?, if it propagated on it's own, then the material may be rotten, and the ultimate failure is lurking. To try to get sail tape to Dacron, the Dacron must be dry and clean. A solvent like MEK is what we used as sail makers (not for repair tape, but for sail numbers) to improve adhering. Round the corners of the patch, and patch both sides. If the sail is salty, then removing the salt will also improve the temporary patches success of sticking. If the sail is "Mylar", then use Mylar tape. The skin on these sails only holds the strength threads in place, and assists in flowing the air. dEmO From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Stirling Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2007 3:34 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: [Cal_Boats] How to Properly Use Sail Repair Tape I haven't been able to get to San Diego since December, when I tore my main. No time to convert new sail from rope, either. I did previously buy sail tape, and I was thinking it would be the quickest way to get me back on the water while I figured out my other sail problems. Question: Is there a proper technique I should be aware of? Do I just iron the tape on? No instructions received. Guess I could Google this. Thought I'd raise it with the experts here first. Thanks to all who responded to my "mineral oil" inquiry, too. At the rate I am going, I will not get back to my boat until sometime in May! Thanks, Bruce Stirling Gangfurd Cal 28 - Hull 82 http://www.stirlinglaw.com/cal28 <http://www.stirlinglaw.com/cal28>

Help! I am in a quandary! The boat is hauled and I believe I could use a new prop. We are getting a slight vibration (knock) in the prop at a certain RPM (2500?) and I think this is due to the bottom paint/protective coating plus years of sanding and cleaning. If a new prop is in the future, now is the time. Boat specs: cal 33; 27.5 LWL; 10800 disp; engine yanmar 3gm30f (27hp@3600) rated 24hp in the manual. 2.36:1 transmission. Current prop 16x15 RH 2 blade. 1 ¼” shaft. We are mostly cruisers, not racing, and use the Rule of 3’s to please the Admiral: Under 3 knots or making more than 3 tacks to get to our destination, the engine starts and we are motoring. (G) I understand that a three blade prop might be better for motoring, when the wind gets over 30 knots and sailing into the breeze. Will this help backing the boat, and maneuvering into the slip? What size would be recommended for the 3 blade vs 2 blade? Do I need to keep the 16 x15 spec? I have researched the internet as much as I can without confusing myself, so asking y’all for opinions that will help make my final decision. One prop calculator recommended 14.7 x 11.74 based on my specs above. Does this sound correct? It does not specify 2 or 3 blades. Do I need to make any adjustments to this spec for the 2 or 3 bade choice? One final question: Teflon packing or Goretex? PTFE from WM is $ 7.50. GFO is $ 15. I trust any recommendation y’all can offer. Thanks for your help? John

My Cal 33-2 originally had a 16x13 2-blade Michigan Sailor prop. I replaced it with a 2-blade 16" Max-prop (size recommended by PYI-Inc). Forward performance seems to be about as with the fixed prop, but the MaxProp is better in reverse. I initially noticed a slight difference in speed when sailing in very light winds (<10kts). We race our boat often so every little bit helps!! I think a folding 2 or 3 blade prop like Flex-o-fold would be another good option and reduces the chance of catching pot warps on the prop. Its very possible your prop or shaft needs to be balanced. If you're going to put on another prop, I'd first recommend that you get the shaft checked by a local prop shop. Also check engine alignment as both of these can cause vibration that occurs only at certain RPMs. -Bill "Tupelo Honey", Cal 33-2 --- "John Raxter ~~~~~_/)~~~~" <jr… [at] triad.rr.com> wrote: > Help! I am in a quandary! > > > > The boat is hauled and I believe I could use a new prop. We are > getting a > slight vibration (knock) in the prop at a certain RPM (2500?) and I > think > this is due to the bottom paint/protective coating plus years of > sanding and > cleaning. If a new prop is in the future, now is the time. > > > > Boat specs: cal 33; 27.5 LWL; 10800 disp; engine yanmar 3gm30f > (27hp@3600) > rated 24hp in the manual. 2.36:1 transmission. Current prop 16x15 RH > 2 > blade. 1 ¼” shaft. > > > > We are mostly cruisers, not racing, and use the Rule of 3’s to please > the > Admiral: Under 3 knots or making more than 3 tacks to get to our > destination, the engine starts and we are motoring. (G) > > > > I understand that a three blade prop might be better for motoring, > when the > wind gets over 30 knots and sailing into the breeze. Will this help > backing > the boat, and maneuvering into the slip? What size would be > recommended for > the 3 blade vs 2 blade? Do I need to keep the 16 x15 spec? I have > researched the internet as much as I can without confusing myself, so > asking > y’all for opinions that will help make my final decision. > > > > One prop calculator recommended 14.7 x 11.74 based on my specs above. > Does > this sound correct? It does not specify 2 or 3 blades. Do I need to > make > any adjustments to this spec for the 2 or 3 bade choice? > > > > One final question: Teflon packing or Goretex? PTFE from WM is $ > 7.50. GFO > is $ 15. I trust any recommendation y’all can offer. > > > > Thanks for your help? > > > > John > >

From: John Raxter ~~~~~_/)~~~~ To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 06, 2007 6:36 PM Subject: [Cal_Boats] prop for Cal 33 Help! I am in a quandary! The boat is hauled and I believe I could use a new prop. We are getting a slight vibration (knock) in the prop at a certain RPM (2500?) and I think this is due to the bottom paint/protective coating plus years of sanding and cleaning. If a new prop is in the future, now is the time. ***** There are many reasons for vibration, one of which could be the prop. Boat specs: cal 33; 27.5 LWL; 10800 disp; engine yanmar 3gm30f (27hp@3600) rated 24hp in the manual. 2.36:1 transmission. Current prop 16x15 RH 2 blade. 1 ¼" shaft. We are mostly cruisers, not racing, and use the Rule of 3's to please the Admiral: Under 3 knots or making more than 3 tacks to get to our destination, the engine starts and we are motoring. (G) I understand that a three blade prop might be better for motoring, ***** It provides more thrust than a 2 blade prop, and is preferred when fighting wind, current, and wave. The trade off is cost and sailing resistance. when the wind gets over 30 knots and sailing into the breeze. Will this help backing the boat, and maneuvering into the slip? **** Yes, a 3 blade will provide more control in ahead and astern. What size would be recommended for the 3 blade vs 2 blade? Do I need to keep the 16 x15 spec? I have researched the internet as much as I can without confusing myself, so asking y'all for opinions that will help make my final decision. ***** I will check for you Monday when the prop shop opens. One prop calculator recommended 14.7 x 11.74 based on my specs above. Does this sound correct? It does not specify 2 or 3 blades. **** Then what good is it? Do I need to make any adjustments to this spec for the 2 or 3 bade choice? ***** Yes. One final question: Teflon packing or Goretex? PTFE from WM is $ 7.50. GFO is $ 15. I trust any recommendation y'all can offer. **** We use Goretex exclusively. Joe DeMers Sound Marine Diesel LLC www.soundmarinediesel.com Thanks for your help? John ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.25/745 - Release Date: 4/3/2007 12:48 PM

--- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Stirling" <bruce@...> wrote: > > I haven't been able to get to San Diego since December, when I tore my > main. No time to convert new sail from rope, either. I did > previously buy sail tape, and I was thinking it would be the quickest > way to get me back on the water while I figured out my other sail > problems. > > Question: Is there a proper technique I should be aware of? Do I > just iron the tape on? No instructions received. Guess I could > Google this. Thought I'd raise it with the experts here first. > > Thanks to all who responded to my "mineral oil" inquiry, too. > At the rate I am going, I will not get back to my boat until sometime > in May! > > Thanks, > > Bruce Stirling > Gangfurd > Cal 28 - Hull 82 > http://www.stirlinglaw.com/cal28 > Hi Bruce- First thing, make sure you have the right kind. Make sure you have Dacron and not nylon for this. The nylon kind only really works with spinnakers. Hold the sail flat on a flat surface-enough tension to take the wrinkles out but no more. Stick the tape on, then rub it really good with the packing that you've peeled off. This will heat up the glue a little and help it bond. No ironing needed. As others have mentioned, depending on size and direction of tear, it may need to be sewn by your friendly neighborhood sailmaker. Mike Kennedy Jr. Cal 40 Conquest #96

Hello All, I've got a fixed 3-bladed on Seredip now and it's a bear. Backing down is great, but under sail with the prop in gear (reverse), you can feel the brakes on. I'm looking for an alternate prop this year. Perhaps trying to put on the 2 blade that came with her. The former owners bought and installed a the 3 bladed. Perhaps a MaxProp is in my future at the show in October. Cheers, JD Serendipity Cal 33-2 #153 On Apr 6, 2007, at 1836 EDT, John Raxter ~~~~~_/))~~~~ <jr… [at] triad.rr.com> wrote: > Help! I am in a quandary! > > > > The boat is hauled and I believe I could use a new prop. We are > getting a slight vibration (knock) in the prop at a certain RPM > (2500?) and I think this is due to the bottom paint/protective > coating plus years of sanding and cleaning. If a new prop is in > the future, now is the time...

I'm curious as to where the shorepower inlet is located on other other Cal 33-2's. On ours, the shore power inlet is located inside the cockpit locker (on bulkhead). This is convenient when we're not using the shorepower cord, but when we do use it, I had to bend the cord between a gap in the locker lid and the aft wall of the locker. As a result, this has been hard on both the shorepower cord and on the locker lid (cracked the lid where it bowed a little due to the cord). I decided to move it into the cockpit but there didn't seem to be an ideal spot for it. I finally settled on putting it just forward of the the manual bilge pump on port side wall of the cockpit (above engine controls). There was room behind this spot for the inlet fixture and wiring, and I only need to re-route about 2 ft of the triplex AC wiring. Anyone else have the same problem?? tkx, Bill Terrell "Tupelo Honey", '88 Cal 33-2

Hiya Bill and All, The shore power inlet on Serendip is in the same place as yours was originally. The locker lid on mine is good (slight crazing), but I'm careful to not stress out that corner of the locker lid. I make sure that the cord is secured outside of the locker somewhere so if there's stress on the cord, it doesn't transfer to that bend into the locker. She lives mostly on a mooring so it's not something that I deal with often. Here's another question for you guys/gals, two actually: #1) I'd like to add another battery or two with the originals. Has anyone added more storage capacity? If so, how did you make it fit? The location is perfect access-wise, not to mention my old girl tends to list to port at anchor. Makes for a quick Port tack though. #2) Has anyone replaced the engine panel in the cockpit? Mine's showing wear as well as cracking around the stop plunger. I'd love to add a water temp gauge and a fixed VHF in the area. Thoughts? Thanks, JD "Serendipity" Cal 33-2 #153 Last thing-Before I go out today and scan the entire 33-2 manual electronically, does anyone already have a copy digitized? On Apr 9, 2007, at 0927 EDT, Bill Terrell wrote: > I'm curious as to where the shorepower inlet is located on other other > Cal 33-2's...

michaelkennedy05 wrote: > > > Hi Bruce- > First thing, make sure you have the right kind. Make sure you have > Dacron and not nylon for this. The nylon kind only really works with > spinnakers. > This reminds me of an interesting arrangement on my other boat. It came with a spinnaker and pole and rigging, but for some odd reason some previous owner had spliced up some nice spinnaker sheets of 3-strand nylon. This created a self-adjusting system, because the sheet and guy would stretch or shrink with wind-pressure changes. The farther forward the pole was, the more dramatic the spontaneous changes. None of the changes were welcome or helpful but they were all interesting. It did not take long for me to convert the nice 3-strand nylon into mooring lines and to splice some double-braid dacron onto the shackles for the spinnaker. It's somewhat akin to the nylon sail on my old DN iceboat. Hey, nylon was high-tech and class-legal back in the mid-'50s. It's also self-adjusting in the wrong way--the stronger the wind, the more draft in the sail. @#$&*!!!!!. Chris Campbell

Thanks JD. Good to know this was the original location of the shorepower inlet. I have two group 27 house batteries and one group 27 starting battery in the compartment under the stbd settee. I saw one Cal 33-2 where the starting battery was moved under the quarterberth. This seemed like a good spot since it shortens the length of the battery cable to the starter, but it also required moving the thru-hull for the engine freshwater intake, which is more work than I've wanted to do so far. I had some cracking around the plastic "box" on which the engine panel sits. I removed the whole thing, removed the engine panel and then epoxyed/repainted/reinstalled the box. Haven't found a source for the clear plexiglass door frame though. I'd love to get a copy of the original manual if you scan it. best, Bill --- NYBoilermaker <ny… [at] gmail.com> wrote: > Hiya Bill and All, > > The shore power inlet on Serendip is in the same place as yours was > originally. The locker lid on mine is good (slight crazing), but I'm > > careful to not stress out that corner of the locker lid. I make sure > > that the cord is secured outside of the locker somewhere so if > there's stress on the cord, it doesn't transfer to that bend into the > > locker. She lives mostly on a mooring so it's not something that I > deal with often. > > Here's another question for you guys/gals, two actually: > > #1) I'd like to add another battery or two with the originals. Has > anyone added more storage capacity? If so, how did you make it fit? > > The location is perfect access-wise, not to mention my old girl tends > > to list to port at anchor. Makes for a quick Port tack though. > > #2) Has anyone replaced the engine panel in the cockpit? Mine's > showing wear as well as cracking around the stop plunger. I'd love to > > add a water temp gauge and a fixed VHF in the area. Thoughts? > > Thanks, > JD > "Serendipity" Cal 33-2 #153 > > > Last thing-Before I go out today and scan the entire 33-2 manual > electronically, does anyone already have a copy digitized? > > > > > > > > On Apr 9, 2007, at 0927 EDT, Bill Terrell wrote: > > > I'm curious as to where the shorepower inlet is located on other > other > > Cal 33-2's... >

My shore power is on the port side of the cockpit near the hand operated bilge pump. Just behind it. Not bad unless you are on a starboard tack and you are wedged up against it. I re engineered the battery compartment on the starboard side to accept 2 x 4D gel batteries. Not easy and involved polyboard to make a new compartment. A tight fit. I also put a group 27 back in the port lazarette as the dedicated starting battery. Works OK. I placed a RAM mike that is off the nav station VHF in the cockpit. It works very well. Hope this helps, Darr LaFon _____ From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of NYBoilermaker Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 10:06 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] shore power connection for Cal 33-2 Hiya Bill and All, The shore power inlet on Serendip is in the same place as yours was originally. The locker lid on mine is good (slight crazing), but I'm careful to not stress out that corner of the locker lid. I make sure that the cord is secured outside of the locker somewhere so if there's stress on the cord, it doesn't transfer to that bend into the locker. She lives mostly on a mooring so it's not something that I deal with often. Here's another question for you guys/gals, two actually: #1) I'd like to add another battery or two with the originals. Has anyone added more storage capacity? If so, how did you make it fit? The location is perfect access-wise, not to mention my old girl tends to list to port at anchor. Makes for a quick Port tack though. #2) Has anyone replaced the engine panel in the cockpit? Mine's showing wear as well as cracking around the stop plunger. I'd love to add a water temp gauge and a fixed VHF in the area. Thoughts? Thanks, JD "Serendipity" Cal 33-2 #153 Last thing-Before I go out today and scan the entire 33-2 manual electronically, does anyone already have a copy digitized? On Apr 9, 2007, at 0927 EDT, Bill Terrell wrote: > I'm curious as to where the shorepower inlet is located on other other > Cal 33-2's...

Hello I'm a fan of the 3 blade Max prop. It's only down side is the price. I went from a 2 blade fixed to the 3 blade Max. It was night and day better in all categories. Headway in large swells is where I feel the price was worth it. Chuck Second Fiddle 2-34 NYBoilermaker <ny… [at] gmail.com> wrote: Hello All, I've got a fixed 3-bladed on Seredip now and it's a bear. Backing down is great, but under sail with the prop in gear (reverse), you can feel the brakes on. I'm looking for an alternate prop this year. Perhaps trying to put on the 2 blade that came with her. The former owners bought and installed a the 3 bladed. Perhaps a MaxProp is in my future at the show in October. Cheers, JD Serendipity Cal 33-2 #153 On Apr 6, 2007, at 1836 EDT, John Raxter ~~~~~_/))~~~~ <jr… [at] triad.rr.com> wrote: Help! I am in a quandary! The boat is hauled and I believe I could use a new prop. We are getting a slight vibration (knock) in the prop at a certain RPM (2500?) and I think this is due to the bottom paint/protective coating plus years of sanding and cleaning. If a new prop is in the future, now is the time... --------------------------------- Don't get soaked. Take a quick peek at the forecast with theYahoo! Search weather shortcut.

Bill, et al, I have an '86 33-2. The shore power connection is located on the port side, in the cockpit, just aft of the manual bilge pump, in the short section of seatback which connects the port seatback with the transom seatback. Seems to work pretty well. I see that you've placed three group 27 batteries in the compartment under the stbd settee. I have two group 27 batteries in this location--just forward of the water tank. I was thinking about putting another so I would have the set-up you have. However, I did not see how to get a third battery in the space. How did you do it? Thanks, Travis ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Terrell To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 9:22 AM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] shore power connection for Cal 33-2 Thanks JD. Good to know this was the original location of the shorepower inlet. I have two group 27 house batteries and one group 27 starting battery in the compartment under the stbd settee. I saw one Cal 33-2 where the starting battery was moved under the quarterberth. This seemed like a good spot since it shortens the length of the battery cable to the starter, but it also required moving the thru-hull for the engine freshwater intake, which is more work than I've wanted to do so far. I had some cracking around the plastic "box" on which the engine panel sits. I removed the whole thing, removed the engine panel and then epoxyed/repainted/reinstalled the box. Haven't found a source for the clear plexiglass door frame though. I'd love to get a copy of the original manual if you scan it. best, Bill --- NYBoilermaker <ny… [at] gmail.com> wrote: > Hiya Bill and All, > > The shore power inlet on Serendip is in the same place as yours was > originally. The locker lid on mine is good (slight crazing), but I'm > > careful to not stress out that corner of the locker lid. I make sure > > that the cord is secured outside of the locker somewhere so if > there's stress on the cord, it doesn't transfer to that bend into the > > locker. She lives mostly on a mooring so it's not something that I > deal with often. > > Here's another question for you guys/gals, two actually: > > #1) I'd like to add another battery or two with the originals. Has > anyone added more storage capacity? If so, how did you make it fit? > > The location is perfect access-wise, not to mention my old girl tends > > to list to port at anchor. Makes for a quick Port tack though. > > #2) Has anyone replaced the engine panel in the cockpit? Mine's > showing wear as well as cracking around the stop plunger. I'd love to > > add a water temp gauge and a fixed VHF in the area. Thoughts? > > Thanks, > JD > "Serendipity" Cal 33-2 #153 > > > Last thing-Before I go out today and scan the entire 33-2 manual > electronically, does anyone already have a copy digitized? > > > > > > > > On Apr 9, 2007, at 0927 EDT, Bill Terrell wrote: > > > I'm curious as to where the shorepower inlet is located on other > other > > Cal 33-2's... >

Interesting, it sounds like some of the Cal 33-2's have it in the locker and some have it next to the bilge hand pump. Perhaps this was the commisioning dealer's choice? I think I'm going to opt for the spot immediately forward of the bilge hand pump on the port-side cockpit wall, for the reason JD mentioned. The layout of the batteries under my stbd settee (fwd of water tank) is: two house batteries side-to-side and the starting battery fore-aft on the stbd side of the compartment. Here's an attempt at a diagram: +----------+ |<=HB1=>^^^| | SB1| |<=HB2=>vvv| +----------+ The starting battery sits on a wood platform which raises it about thee inches. I have isolated the house and starting batteries. The house batteries are wired in parallel and go to the batt switch on the nav panel and also to the alternator. The starting battery goes to a batt switch under the settee and then to the starter. I use a battery combiner to connect the starting battery to the house bank when voltage gets to 14v. The only think I dislike about this setup is the long battery cable runs to panel, starter, alternator. best, Bill --- tr… [at] sbcglobal.net wrote: > Bill, et al, > I have an '86 33-2. The shore power connection is located on the > port side, in the cockpit, just aft of the manual bilge pump, in the > short section of seatback which connects the port seatback with the > transom seatback. Seems to work pretty well. > I see that you've placed three group 27 batteries in the compartment > under the stbd settee. I have two group 27 batteries in this > location--just forward of the water tank. I was thinking about > putting another so I would have the set-up you have. However, I did > not see how to get a third battery in the space. How did you do it? > Thanks, > Travis > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Bill Terrell > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 9:22 AM > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] shore power connection for Cal 33-2 > > > Thanks JD. Good to know this was the original location of the > shorepower inlet. > > I have two group 27 house batteries and one group 27 starting > battery > in the compartment under the stbd settee. I saw one Cal 33-2 where > the > starting battery was moved under the quarterberth. This seemed like > a > good spot since it shortens the length of the battery cable to the > starter, but it also required moving the thru-hull for the engine > freshwater intake, which is more work than I've wanted to do so > far. > > I had some cracking around the plastic "box" on which the engine > panel > sits. I removed the whole thing, removed the engine panel and then > epoxyed/repainted/reinstalled the box. Haven't found a source for > the > clear plexiglass door frame though. > > I'd love to get a copy of the original manual if you scan it. > > best, > Bill > > --- NYBoilermaker <ny… [at] gmail.com> wrote: > > > Hiya Bill and All, > > > > The shore power inlet on Serendip is in the same place as yours > was > > originally. The locker lid on mine is good (slight crazing), but > I'm > > > > careful to not stress out that corner of the locker lid. I make > sure > > > > that the cord is secured outside of the locker somewhere so if > > there's stress on the cord, it doesn't transfer to that bend into > the > > > > locker. She lives mostly on a mooring so it's not something that > I > > deal with often. > > > > Here's another question for you guys/gals, two actually: > > > > #1) I'd like to add another battery or two with the originals. > Has > > anyone added more storage capacity? If so, how did you make it > fit? > > > > The location is perfect access-wise, not to mention my old girl > tends > > > > to list to port at anchor. Makes for a quick Port tack though. > > > > #2) Has anyone replaced the engine panel in the cockpit? Mine's > > showing wear as well as cracking around the stop plunger. I'd > love to > > > > add a water temp gauge and a fixed VHF in the area. Thoughts? > > > > Thanks, > > JD > > "Serendipity" Cal 33-2 #153 > > > > > > Last thing-Before I go out today and scan the entire 33-2 manual > > electronically, does anyone already have a copy digitized? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Apr 9, 2007, at 0927 EDT, Bill Terrell wrote: > > > > > I'm curious as to where the shorepower inlet is located on > other > > other > > > Cal 33-2's... > > > > > >