keel bolts 27 T2

Hello, Anyone have information on the keel bolts on the Cal 27 T2. I have a new to me boat that I have no history on the keel bolt maintenance. I would like to address any potential problems before I restore the interior. The boat is on stands, keel does not look bad, slight rust stain at the rear of the joint. Has anyone done any work on this before? What should I be looking for and what are the specs on tightening? Comments or suggestions? Mike

CAL T/2 keel bolts: The nuts on the bolts were all rusted through. Several fell into pieces when I tapped them with a hammer. The others I either unscrewed after letting soak with "Kroil"...http://www.kanolabs.com/ or cold chiseled off. Three of the (7) bolts, don't forget the one that sits by itself in the second (aft) bilge well were 'carroted, as in, thinned under the bolt. I then removed the large square backing plates, also rusted. I wire brushed the bolts, had new 1/4" backing plates made with a hole in the center. Cleaned the bilge, 4200'd the bottom of the backing plate, put them in place and using new stainless nuts, i double nutted the bolts. That way the second nut grabs above the carroted section on good threads. Good luck, Bill ps: If you would like a line drawing (blueprint)of the boat suitable for framing, let me know. It was drawn by Bill himself in 1972 and I have copied the original.

I have a 27 T2 and would like a copy of the drawing. Please contact me at ma… [at] comcast.net. Thanks John ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 7:18 AM Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: keel bolts 27 T2 CAL T/2 keel bolts: The nuts on the bolts were all rusted through. Several fell into pieces when I tapped them with a hammer. The others I either unscrewed after letting soak with "Kroil"...http://www.kanolabs.com/ or cold chiseled off. Three of the (7) bolts, don't forget the one that sits by itself in the second (aft) bilge well were 'carroted, as in, thinned under the bolt. I then removed the large square backing plates, also rusted. I wire brushed the bolts, had new 1/4" backing plates made with a hole in the center. Cleaned the bilge, 4200'd the bottom of the backing plate, put them in place and using new stainless nuts, i double nutted the bolts. That way the second nut grabs above the carroted section on good threads. Good luck, Bill ps: If you would like a line drawing (blueprint)of the boat suitable for framing, let me know. It was drawn by Bill himself in 1972 and I have copied the original. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.31/1130 - Release Date: 11/14/2007 9:27 AM

Bill, I checked the bolts..all are in good shape. I wanted to clean out all the old sealant around the keel to hull joint. Do I have to loosen all the bolts first and drop the lead ballast a little to clean and reseal the joint? What is the correct procedure for this? - In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, "Bill" <w.posner@...> wrote: > > CAL T/2 keel bolts: The nuts on the bolts were all rusted through. > Several fell into pieces when I tapped them with a hammer. The > others I either unscrewed after letting soak > with "Kroil"...http://www.kanolabs.com/ or cold chiseled off. Three > of the (7) bolts, don't forget the one that sits by itself in the > second (aft) bilge well were 'carroted, as in, thinned under the > bolt. > > I then removed the large square backing plates, also rusted. I wire > brushed the bolts, had new 1/4" backing plates made with a hole in > the center. Cleaned the bilge, 4200'd the bottom of the backing > plate, put them in place and using new stainless nuts, i double > nutted the bolts. That way the second nut grabs above the carroted > section on good threads. > > Good luck, Bill > ps: If you would like a line drawing (blueprint)of the boat suitable > for framing, let me know. It was drawn by Bill himself in 1972 and I > have copied the original. >

Back to you Mike... I did not drop the keel. It seemed to me that it was as close as it would be so I just filled it after digging out only what looked bad. Let it all dry our REAL good, pried off any areas of f/g mat that were delaminated on the lead part just below the joint. The f/g stub was fine with no delam. Coat/paint with a primer to protect the bare f/g and anywhere the lead is showing. I used interlux interprotect epoxy barrier. Filled with a 2 part epoxy with a thickener ( make it like peanut butter) that is not a fairing compound, like 410, but rather more like 403. 403 is hard to spread, 404 is easier, your choice. Fill it fair it and use interprotect or other primer of choice that is compatible with the bottom paint you will eventually use. Bottom paint (just before splashing it... Done! Bill