Re: [Cal_Boats] 5411 Exhaust

I replaced the exhaust on my 5432 2 seasons ago. It had the same set up. I recreated it with new pipe and it has worked fine. I don't think it was galvanized but I am not certian. I figure the original lasted 22 years which was good enough for me. I belive the thread seal I used was high tempature rated. - David From: Bob Ellison <bo… [at] adelphia.net> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, April 5, 2008 1:58:27 PM Subject: [Cal_Boats] 5411 Exhaust Our 1980 2-27 has a Universal 5411 and the exhaust elbow/riser was made with steel pipe. It broke at the end of last season at one of the threaded joints. As much as I told myself last fall that I wouldn't be rushing last minute to get it fixed in the spring, that's what I'm doing. I have a couple questions, for the group and Joe DeMers... My thought is to use Sch 80 at least for the pipe so there is some more metal left at the threads. Good idea or overkill? If good idea, pipe and elbows or just pipe? Should I use galvanized pipe or black pipe? The boat is in fresh water. Is there anything is diesel exhaust that would have a bad reaction with the zinc? I know the threads are cut after galvanizing, but it appears that the corrosion on the old pipe was on the inside. What should I seal the pipe joints with? I'm sure that typical stuff at plumbing supply houses is not for high temp use. Anyone know how hot the exhaust actually gets before the water mixes in? Anyone have any ideas how to get the old exhaust flange off? Heat and penetrating oil did not seem to do anything. At this point I've admitted defeat and was just going to get a new flange but I'm open to suggestions. I've seen that I can get an actual riser for this engine and not have to mess around with steel pipe. The issue that I see is that my current riser goes up about 10",to port about 8.5", then down about 14" to the muffler with the last 8" being hose after the water is mixed. The description of the part makes it look like the hose extension would be aft of my muffler at about the same elevation and I don't think I could connect the two. Has anyone replaced an exhaust like this? Thanks in advance for any advice. Bob Ellison ____________________________________________________________________________________ You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost. http://tc.deals.yahoo.com/tc/blockbuster/text5.com

thru the years i have built several exhaust systems from galvanized, stainless and black the galvanized seem to work well instead of any pipe sealer i have used anti seize compound these threads are tapered and will seal when tight but the anti seize helps when time to remove the parts gene --- David Lyons <ca… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > I replaced the exhaust on my 5432 2 seasons ago. It > had the same set up. I recreated it with new pipe > and it has worked fine. I don't think it was > galvanized but I am not certian. I figure the > original lasted 22 years which was good enough for > me. I belive the thread seal I used was high > tempature rated. > > - David > > > ----- Original Message ---- > From: Bob Ellison <bo… [at] adelphia.net> > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > Sent: Saturday, April 5, 2008 1:58:27 PM > Subject: [Cal_Boats] 5411 Exhaust > > Our 1980 2-27 has a Universal 5411 and the exhaust > elbow/riser was made with steel pipe. It broke at > the end of last season at one of the threaded > joints. As much as I told myself last fall that I > wouldn't be rushing last minute to get it fixed in > the spring, that's what I'm doing. I have a couple > questions, for the group and Joe DeMers... > > My thought is to use Sch 80 at least for the pipe so > there is some more metal left at the threads. Good > idea or overkill? If good idea, pipe and elbows or > just pipe? > > Should I use galvanized pipe or black pipe? The > boat is in fresh water. Is there anything is diesel > exhaust that would have a bad reaction with the > zinc? I know the threads are cut after galvanizing, > but it appears that the corrosion on the old pipe > was on the inside. > > What should I seal the pipe joints with? I'm sure > that typical stuff at plumbing supply houses is not > for high temp use. > Anyone know how hot the exhaust actually gets before > the water mixes in? > > Anyone have any ideas how to get the old exhaust > flange off? Heat and penetrating oil did not seem > to do anything. At this point I've admitted defeat > and was just going to get a new flange but I'm open > to suggestions. > > I've seen that I can get an actual riser for this > engine and not have to mess around with steel pipe. > The issue that I see is that my current riser goes > up about 10",to port about 8.5", then down about 14" > to the muffler with the last 8" being hose after the > water is mixed. The description of the part makes > it look like the hose extension would be aft of my > muffler at about the same elevation and I don't > think I could connect the two. Has anyone replaced > an exhaust like this? > > Thanks in advance for any advice. > > Bob Ellison > > > > > > > You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one > month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost. > http://tc.deals.yahoo.com/tc/blockbuster/text5.com ____________________________________________________________________________________ You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost. http://tc.deals.yahoo.com/tc/blockbuster/text5.com

I replaced the exhaust on my 5411 a few years back with black iron and a new exhaust flange. I do not recall having any trouble getting it apart. One thing I learned when buying the pipe at your local plumbing supplier, is that most pipe comes from China and is crap! The American (higher priced) pipe is x-rayed to check for voids/air pockets. Being that it is "pipe threads" I did not feel a need to use any sealant. Dan In a message dated 4/5/2008 10:02:07 P.M. Central Daylight Time, ca… [at] yahoo.com writes: I replaced the exhaust on my 5432 2 seasons ago. It had the same set up. I recreated it with new pipe and it has worked fine. I don't think it was galvanized but I am not certain. I figure the original lasted 22 years which was good enough for me. I belive the thread seal I used was high tempature rated. - David From: Bob Ellison <bob_sharon@adelphiabob_> To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrouTo: Sent: Saturday, April 5, 2008 1:58:27 PM Subject: [Cal_Boats] 5411 Exhaust Our 1980 2-27 has a Universal 5411 and the exhaust elbow/riser was made with steel pipe. It broke at the end of last season at one of the threaded joints. As much as I told myself last fall that I wouldn't be rushing last minute to get it fixed in the spring, that's what I'm doing. I have a couple questions, for the group and Joe DeMers... My thought is to use Sch 80 at least for the pipe so there is some more metal left at the threads. Good idea or overkill? If good idea, pipe and elbows or just pipe? Should I use galvanized pipe or black pipe? The boat is in fresh water. Is there anything is diesel exhaust that would have a bad reaction with the zinc? I know the threads are cut after galvanizing, but it appears that the corrosion on the old pipe was on the inside. What should I seal the pipe joints with? I'm sure that typical stuff at plumbing supply houses is not for high temp use. Anyone know how hot the exhaust actually gets before the water mixes in? Anyone have any ideas how to get the old exhaust flange off? Heat and penetrating oil did not seem to do anything. At this point I've admitted defeat and was just going to get a new flange but I'm open to suggestions. I've seen that I can get an actual riser for this engine and not have to mess around with steel pipe. The issue that I see is that my current riser goes up about 10",to port about 8.5", then down about 14" to the muffler with the last 8" being hose after the water is mixed. The description of the part makes it look like the hose extension would be aft of my muffler at about the same elevation and I don't think I could connect the two. Has anyone replaced an exhaust like this? Thanks in advance for any advice. Bob Ellison You rock. That's why Blockbuster' You rock. T_one month of Blockbuster Total Access_ (http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=47523/*http://tc.deals.yahoo.com/tc/blockbuster/text5.com) , No Cost. **************Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016)