Polar for Cal 40

Does anyone have a VP diagram for a Cal 40?

--- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, "ath63" <ath63@...> wrote: > > Does anyone have a VP diagram for a Cal 40? > I found this DATA <http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.blur.se/polar/class40\ _polar.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.blur.se/polardiagram-trimguider/&h=1224&\ w=1632&sz=208&hl=en&start=3&um=1&tbnid=eSngzF5Q6CUukM:&tbnh=113&tbnw=150\ &prev=/images%3Fq%3Dcal%2B40%2BVPP%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dfirefox\ -a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26sa%3DN> but don't have a VPP or software with true polar plotting capability. Obviously, this doesn't take into account the planing capabilities of the boat. Still trying to figure that one out. Cal 40 KNTS TWS TWA Boat Speed 6 Knots 6.00 30.00 2.50 6.00 49.00 4.40 6.00 60.00 5.10 6.00 75.00 5.60 6.00 90.00 5.80 6.00 105.00 5.83 6.00 120.00 5.40 6.00 135.00 4.70 6.00 142.00 4.30 6.00 180.00 3.10 8 knots 8.00 30.00 3.20 8.00 49.00 5.30 8.00 60.00 6.15 8.00 75.00 6.57 8.00 90.00 6.75 8.00 105.00 6.78 8.00 120.00 6.50 8.00 135.00 5.89 8.00 145.00 5.25 8.00 180.00 4.04 10 knots 10.00 30.00 3.50 10.00 47.00 5.85 10.00 60.00 6.65 10.00 75.00 7.00 10.00 90.00 7.15 10.00 105.00 7.25 10.00 120.00 7.10 10.00 135.00 6.70 10.00 151.00 5.90 10.00 180.00 4.95 12 knots 12.00 30.00 3.80 12.00 46.00 6.00 12.00 60.00 6.90 12.00 75.00 7.30 12.00 90.00 7.40 12.00 105.00 7.60 12.00 120.00 7.52 12.00 135.00 7.20 12.00 164.00 6.15 12.00 180.00 5.80 16 knots 16.00 30.00 4.10 16.00 45.00 6.25 16.00 60.00 7.10 16.00 75.00 7.55 16.00 90.00 7.87 16.00 105.00 7.90 16.00 120.00 8.20 16.00 135.00 8.00 16.00 173.00 7.05 16.00 180.00 6.95 20 knots 20.00 30.00 4.00 20.00 45.00 6.30 20.00 60.00 7.20 20.00 75.00 7.70 20.00 90.00 8.10 20.00 105.00 8.20 20.00 120.00 8.60 20.00 135.00 8.70 20.00 174.00 7.60 20.00 180.00 7.50

--- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, "ath63" <ath63@...> wrote: > > > --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, "ath63" <ath63@> wrote: > > > > Does anyone have a VP diagram for a Cal 40? > > > > I found this DATA > <http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.blur.se/polar/class40\ > _polar.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.blur.se/polardiagram-trimguider/&h=1224&\ > w=1632&sz=208&hl=en&start=3&um=1&tbnid=eSngzF5Q6CUukM:&tbnh=113&tbnw=150\ > &prev=/images%3Fq%3Dcal%2B40%2BVPP%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dfirefox\ > -a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26sa%3DN> but don't have a VPP > or software with true polar plotting capability. Obviously, this > doesn't take into account the planing capabilities of the boat. Still > trying to figure that one out. Cal 40 > > > KNTS > TWS TWA Boat Speed 6 Knots > > 6.00 30.00 2.50 6.00 49.00 4.40 6.00 60.00 5.10 > 6.00 75.00 5.60 6.00 90.00 5.80 6.00 105.00 5.83 > 6.00 120.00 5.40 6.00 135.00 4.70 6.00 142.00 > 4.30 6.00 180.00 3.10 8 knots > > 8.00 30.00 3.20 8.00 49.00 5.30 8.00 60.00 6.15 > 8.00 75.00 6.57 8.00 90.00 6.75 8.00 105.00 6.78 > 8.00 120.00 6.50 8.00 135.00 5.89 8.00 145.00 > 5.25 8.00 180.00 4.04 10 knots > > 10.00 30.00 3.50 10.00 47.00 5.85 10.00 60.00 > 6.65 10.00 75.00 7.00 10.00 90.00 7.15 10.00 > 105.00 7.25 10.00 120.00 7.10 10.00 135.00 6.70 > 10.00 151.00 5.90 10.00 180.00 4.95 12 knots > > 12.00 30.00 3.80 12.00 46.00 6.00 12.00 60.00 > 6.90 12.00 75.00 7.30 12.00 90.00 7.40 12.00 > 105.00 7.60 12.00 120.00 7.52 12.00 135.00 7.20 > 12.00 164.00 6.15 12.00 180.00 5.80 16 knots > > 16.00 30.00 4.10 16.00 45.00 6.25 16.00 60.00 > 7.10 16.00 75.00 7.55 16.00 90.00 7.87 16.00 > 105.00 7.90 16.00 120.00 8.20 16.00 135.00 8.00 > 16.00 173.00 7.05 16.00 180.00 6.95 20 knots > > 20.00 30.00 4.00 20.00 45.00 6.30 20.00 60.00 > 7.20 20.00 75.00 7.70 20.00 90.00 8.10 20.00 > 105.00 8.20 20.00 120.00 8.60 20.00 135.00 8.70 > 20.00 174.00 7.60 20.00 180.00 7.50 > well, here's more info for those interested: How do you determine your boat's designed performance? US Sailing (PO Box 1260, Portsmouth RI 02871, 401-683-0800, www.ussailing.org) has approximately 700 measured boats on record from which they are able to produce Performance Predictions. These boats are drawn primarily from the North American IMS and AMERICAP Fleets. US SAILING also publishes a Performance Package that includes polars in addition to stability characteristics, instructions, and explanations on the content. These can be custom ordered to ensure that the data is matched with each individual boat. The cost of each Performance Package is $170 (for members) and may be ordered online at www.ussailing.org, or by calling 1-800-US-SAIL-1. For more information contact Daniel DeWindt at US Sailing's Offshore Tech. Assistant at 401-683-0800.

I'm trying to figure out the cause of an overheating Universal 5424 diesel. Under a light load (in gear at 1800 rpm), when the thermostat opens, the temp goes from 160 to 180 in about 20 seconds or so. What's been done so far: 1. raw water pump checked. Flow is good 2. heat exchanger disassembled, found clean with no obstructions. 3. Thermostat, sender and gauge checked for accuracy, all good. 4. No coolant loss ever observed. 5. Coolant pump removed, no damage to impeller, impeller secure 6. All hoses (except between water heater and engine) checked. (Water heater hoses 2 years old. 7. water circulates through system as fast as a garden hose with good pressure can deliver it - in either direction, input at any point. The only observable symptom is that it seemed there was not much, if any circulation into the coolant resavior. This would account for the overheating, of course. To check this, we ran the hose that goes from coolant pump output to the resavior from the pump to a bucket, and stood by to keep the resavior filled when the t-stat opened. Yep, no flow. So, why is there no flow? We are stumped. On the idea that the pump was air-locked, started the engine, and kept introducing water into the circuit by via the bypass whenever it would take water under low pressure. This got us nowhere. We did not have the means at hand to introduce water via the input to the pump from the heat exchanger at hand, but could try that during the week. Is there anything special about this engine - is there some known air-lock problem? Btw, the only point in the system that is as high as the resavoir is a loop in the hose between the resavoir and the hot-water heater, that comes just about as high as the return from the pump to the resavior. All other components are lower than the level of coolant in the resavior. Thanks for any clues Thomas Downing DISCLAIMER: Important Notice ************************************************* This e-mail may contain information that is confidential, privileged or otherwise protected from disclosure. If you are not an intended recipient of this e-mail, do not duplicate or redistribute it by any means. Please delete it and any attachments and notify the sender that you have received it in error. Unintended recipients are prohibited from taking action on the basis of information in this e-mail.E-mail messages may contain computer viruses or other defects, may not be accurately replicated on other systems, or may be intercepted, deleted or interfered with without the knowledge of the sender or the intended recipient. If you are not comfortable with the risks associated with e-mail messages, you may decide not to use e-mail to communicate with IPC. IPC reserves the right, to the extent and under circumstances permitted by applicable law, to retain, monitor and intercept e-mail messages to and from its systems.

My (now deceased) Universal 5416 used to air lock in the water heater. Installing an overflow tank higher than the heater solved the problem. At the same time, I installed the next larger size heat exchanger; they are not very expensive. I wouldn't think that 180 would be a particularly high temp for a fresh-water-cooled engine. Harleigh Ewell Cal 31 From: Downing, Thomas [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Downing, Thomas Sent: Monday, June 23, 2008 9:33 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Stumped by Universal 5424 overheating. I'm trying to figure out the cause of an overheating Universal 5424 diesel. Under a light load (in gear at 1800 rpm), when the thermostat opens, the temp goes from 160 to 180 in about 20 seconds or so. What's been done so far: 1. raw water pump checked. Flow is good 2. heat exchanger disassembled, found clean with no obstructions. 3. Thermostat, sender and gauge checked for accuracy, all good. 4. No coolant loss ever observed. 5. Coolant pump removed, no damage to impeller, impeller secure 6. All hoses (except between water heater and engine) checked. (Water heater hoses 2 years old. 7. water circulates through system as fast as a garden hose with good pressure can deliver it - in either direction, input at any point. The only observable symptom is that it seemed there was not much, if any circulation into the coolant resavior. This would account for the overheating, of course. To check this, we ran the hose that goes from coolant pump output to the resavior from the pump to a bucket, and stood by to keep the resavior filled when the t-stat opened. Yep, no flow. So, why is there no flow? We are stumped. On the idea that the pump was air-locked, started the engine, and kept introducing water into the circuit by via the bypass whenever it would take water under low pressure. This got us nowhere. We did not have the means at hand to introduce water via the input to the pump from the heat exchanger at hand, but could try that during the week. Is there anything special about this engine - is there some known air-lock problem? Btw, the only point in the system that is as high as the resavoir is a loop in the hose between the resavoir and the hot-water heater, that comes just about as high as the return from the pump to the resavior. All other components are lower than the level of coolant in the resavior. Thanks for any clues Thomas Downing

--- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, "ath63" <ath63@...> wrote: > > --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, "ath63" <ath63@> wrote: > > > > > > --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, "ath63" <ath63@> wrote: > > > > > > Does anyone have a VP diagram for a Cal 40? > > > > > > > I found this DATA > > > well, here's more info for those interested: > > How do you determine your boat's designed performance? US Sailing (PO > Box 1260, Portsmouth RI 02871, 401-683-0800, www.ussailing.org) has > approximately 700 measured boats on record from which they are able to > produce Performance Predictions. These boats are drawn primarily from > the North American IMS and AMERICAP Fleets. US SAILING also publishes > a Performance Package that includes polars in addition to stability > characteristics, instructions, and explanations on the content. These > can be custom ordered to ensure that the data is matched with each > individual boat. The cost of each Performance Package is $170 (for > members) and may be ordered online at www.ussailing.org, or by calling > 1-800-US-SAIL-1. For more information contact Daniel DeWindt at US > Sailing's Offshore Tech. Assistant at 401-683-0800. > There are a number of Cal 40s that have IMS certificates. There should be plenty of data in that database as most are original underbody shape. The only major alteration I'm aware of is Montgomery Street, Which had the old keel cut off and a new keel built with the appropriate supporting structure. Mike Kennedy Conquest Cal 40 # 96

180 isnt high for frsh water cooled engine however if it didnt get that high before perhaps there is an ait lock, also recheck raw water pump it may appear plenty of flow but it can fool you check impeller if it has aquired "a shape" i e the blades are bent in the shape of the cam then you may not be getting good flow replace impeller to be sure. also check the inside of you exhaust hose it may look good on the outside but could be partially blocked causing more heat and also loss of power. what does your smoke look like gene --- On Mon, 6/23/08, Harleigh Ewell <he… [at] comcast.net> wrote: From: Harleigh Ewell <he… [at] comcast.net> Subject: [Cal_Boats] RE: Stumped by Universal 5424 overheating. To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, June 23, 2008, 11:29 AM My (now deceased) Universal 5416 used to air lock in the water heater. Installing an overflow tank higher than the heater solved the problem. At the same time, I installed the next larger size heat exchanger; they are not very expensive. I wouldn't think that 180 would be a particularly high temp for a fresh-water- cooled engine. Harleigh Ewell Cal 31 From: Downing, Thomas [mailto:Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com] On Behalf Of Downing, Thomas Sent: Monday, June 23, 2008 9:33 AM To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Subject: Stumped by Universal 5424 overheating. I'm trying to figure out the cause of an overheating Universal 5424 diesel. Under a light load (in gear at 1800 rpm), when the thermostat opens, the temp goes from 160 to 180 in about 20 seconds or so. What's been done so far: 1. raw water pump checked. Flow is good 2. heat exchanger disassembled, found clean with no obstructions. 3. Thermostat, sender and gauge checked for accuracy, all good. 4. No coolant loss ever observed. 5. Coolant pump removed, no damage to impeller, impeller secure 6. All hoses (except between water heater and engine) checked. (Water heater hoses 2 years old. 7. water circulates through system as fast as a garden hose with good pressure can deliver it - in either direction, input at any point. The only observable symptom is that it seemed there was not much, if any circulation into the coolant resavior. This would account for the overheating, of course. To check this, we ran the hose that goes from coolant pump output to the resavior from the pump to a bucket, and stood by to keep the resavior filled when the t-stat opened. Yep, no flow. So, why is there no flow? We are stumped. On the idea that the pump was air-locked, started the engine, and kept introducing water into the circuit by via the bypass whenever it would take water under low pressure. This got us nowhere. We did not have the means at hand to introduce water via the input to the pump from the heat exchanger at hand, but could try that during the week. Is there anything special about this engine - is there some known air-lock problem? Btw, the only point in the system that is as high as the resavoir is a loop in the hose between the resavoir and the hot-water heater, that comes just about as high as the return from the pump to the resavior. All other components are lower than the level of coolant in the resavior. Thanks for any clues Thomas Downing

Thanks, good suggestion for a high plenum. The engine doesn't run at 180. While working on the problem I killed it as it passed 180, headed for the stratosphere. The owner killed it as sailed back when it went over 200. td From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com on behalf of Harleigh Ewell Sent: Mon 6/23/2008 11:29 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: [Cal_Boats] RE: Stumped by Universal 5424 overheating. My (now deceased) Universal 5416 used to air lock in the water heater. Installing an overflow tank higher than the heater solved the problem. At the same time, I installed the next larger size heat exchanger; they are not very expensive. I wouldn't think that 180 would be a particularly high temp for a fresh-water-cooled engine. Harleigh Ewell Cal 31 From: Downing, Thomas [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Downing, Thomas Sent: Monday, June 23, 2008 9:33 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Stumped by Universal 5424 overheating. I'm trying to figure out the cause of an overheating Universal 5424 diesel. Under a light load (in gear at 1800 rpm), when the thermostat opens, the temp goes from 160 to 180 in about 20 seconds or so. What's been done so far: 1. raw water pump checked. Flow is good 2. heat exchanger disassembled, found clean with no obstructions. 3. Thermostat, sender and gauge checked for accuracy, all good. 4. No coolant loss ever observed. 5. Coolant pump removed, no damage to impeller, impeller secure 6. All hoses (except between water heater and engine) checked. (Water heater hoses 2 years old. 7. water circulates through system as fast as a garden hose with good pressure can deliver it - in either direction, input at any point. The only observable symptom is that it seemed there was not much, if any circulation into the coolant resavior. This would account for the overheating, of course. To check this, we ran the hose that goes from coolant pump output to the resavior from the pump to a bucket, and stood by to keep the resavior filled when the t-stat opened. Yep, no flow. So, why is there no flow? We are stumped. On the idea that the pump was air-locked, started the engine, and kept introducing water into the circuit by via the bypass whenever it would take water under low pressure. This got us nowhere. We did not have the means at hand to introduce water via the input to the pump from the heat exchanger at hand, but could try that during the week. Is there anything special about this engine - is there some known air-lock problem? Btw, the only point in the system that is as high as the resavoir is a loop in the hose between the resavoir and the hot-water heater, that comes just about as high as the return from the pump to the resavior. All other components are lower than the level of coolant in the resavior. Thanks for any clues Thomas Downing DISCLAIMER: Important Notice ************************************************* This e-mail may contain information that is confidential, privileged or otherwise protected from disclosure. If you are not an intended recipient of this e-mail, do not duplicate or redistribute it by any means. Please delete it and any attachments and notify the sender that you have received it in error. Unintended recipients are prohibited from taking action on the basis of information in this e-mail.E-mail messages may contain computer viruses or other defects, may not be accurately replicated on other systems, or may be intercepted, deleted or interfered with without the knowledge of the sender or the intended recipient. If you are not comfortable with the risks associated with e-mail messages, you may decide not to use e-mail to communicate with IPC. IPC reserves the right, to the extent and under circumstances permitted by applicable law, to retain, monitor and intercept e-mail messages to and from its systems.

We've had the raw water pump apart Sunday, new impeller 2 weeks ago, still looks good. As I mentioned in another post, if the engine isn't killed as it flies past 180, it will go over 200, north bound. The exhaust is normal, even when 'goosing' it. No steam off the raw water out. Air lock is most likely, as the problem seems to be narrowed to poor coolant circulation. td From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com on behalf of gene ulmer Sent: Mon 6/23/2008 4:01 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] RE: Stumped by Universal 5424 overheating. 180 isnt high for frsh water cooled engine however if it didnt get that high before perhaps there is an ait lock, also recheck raw water pump it may appear plenty of flow but it can fool you check impeller if it has aquired "a shape" i e the blades are bent in the shape of the cam then you may not be getting good flow replace impeller to be sure. also check the inside of you exhaust hose it may look good on the outside but could be partially blocked causing more heat and also loss of power. what does your smoke look like gene --- On Mon, 6/23/08, Harleigh Ewell <he… [at] comcast.net> wrote: From: Harleigh Ewell <he… [at] comcast.net> Subject: [Cal_Boats] RE: Stumped by Universal 5424 overheating. To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, June 23, 2008, 11:29 AM My (now deceased) Universal 5416 used to air lock in the water heater. Installing an overflow tank higher than the heater solved the problem. At the same time, I installed the next larger size heat exchanger; they are not very expensive. I wouldn't think that 180 would be a particularly high temp for a fresh-water- cooled engine. Harleigh Ewell Cal 31 From: Downing, Thomas [mailto:Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com] On Behalf Of Downing, Thomas Sent: Monday, June 23, 2008 9:33 AM To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Subject: Stumped by Universal 5424 overheating. I'm trying to figure out the cause of an overheating Universal 5424 diesel. Under a light load (in gear at 1800 rpm), when the thermostat opens, the temp goes from 160 to 180 in about 20 seconds or so. What's been done so far: 1. raw water pump checked. Flow is good 2. heat exchanger disassembled, found clean with no obstructions. 3. Thermostat, sender and gauge checked for accuracy, all good. 4. No coolant loss ever observed. 5. Coolant pump removed, no damage to impeller, impeller secure 6. All hoses (except between water heater and engine) checked. (Water heater hoses 2 years old. 7. water circulates through system as fast as a garden hose with good pressure can deliver it - in either direction, input at any point. The only observable symptom is that it seemed there was not much, if any circulation into the coolant resavior. This would account for the overheating, of course. To check this, we ran the hose that goes from coolant pump output to the resavior from the pump to a bucket, and stood by to keep the resavior filled when the t-stat opened. Yep, no flow. So, why is there no flow? We are stumped. On the idea that the pump was air-locked, started the engine, and kept introducing water into the circuit by via the bypass whenever it would take water under low pressure. This got us nowhere. We did not have the means at hand to introduce water via the input to the pump from the heat exchanger at hand, but could try that during the week. Is there anything special about this engine - is there some known air-lock problem? Btw, the only point in the system that is as high as the resavoir is a loop in the hose between the resavoir and the hot-water heater, that comes just about as high as the return from the pump to the resavior. All other components are lower than the level of coolant in the resavior. Thanks for any clues Thomas Downing DISCLAIMER: Important Notice ************************************************* This e-mail may contain information that is confidential, privileged or otherwise protected from disclosure. If you are not an intended recipient of this e-mail, do not duplicate or redistribute it by any means. Please delete it and any attachments and notify the sender that you have received it in error. Unintended recipients are prohibited from taking action on the basis of information in this e-mail.E-mail messages may contain computer viruses or other defects, may not be accurately replicated on other systems, or may be intercepted, deleted or interfered with without the knowledge of the sender or the intended recipient. If you are not comfortable with the risks associated with e-mail messages, you may decide not to use e-mail to communicate with IPC. IPC reserves the right, to the extent and under circumstances permitted by applicable law, to retain, monitor and intercept e-mail messages to and from its systems.

Thomas, How did you check the T-stat? we use to put the stat in a pot on the stove, and watch the action (and temps) until we achieved full open. Of course they are relatively cheap to replace, so a new out-of-the box t-stat would eliminate that piece of the puzzle. As someone else mentioned, the Water heater was the "last change" before the problem started. Going back and bleeding the water heater hoses to eliminate that as well. By Checking and changing one piece at a time, you will eliminate that part as the problem. This will eventually provide you with a solution, and a guide to future repairs. Happy hunting, John

By "overflow tank", I mean a small tank with a cap, through which the coolant flows as it goes from the highest coolant connection on the water heater to the heat exchanger. I mounted it high on the inside of the cockpit locker. HE From: Downing, Thomas [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Downing, Thomas Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 7:01 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] RE: Stumped by Universal 5424 overheating. We've had the raw water pump apart Sunday, new impeller 2 weeks ago, still looks good. As I mentioned in another post, if the engine isn't killed as it flies past 180, it will go over 200, north bound. The exhaust is normal, even when 'goosing' it. No steam off the raw water out. Air lock is most likely, as the problem seems to be narrowed to poor coolant circulation. td From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com on behalf of gene ulmer Sent: Mon 6/23/2008 4:01 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] RE: Stumped by Universal 5424 overheating. 180 isnt high for frsh water cooled engine however if it didnt get that high before perhaps there is an ait lock, also recheck raw water pump it may appear plenty of flow but it can fool you check impeller if it has aquired "a shape" i e the blades are bent in the shape of the cam then you may not be getting good flow replace impeller to be sure. also check the inside of you exhaust hose it may look good on the outside but could be partially blocked causing more heat and also loss of power. what does your smoke look like gene --- On Mon, 6/23/08, Harleigh Ewell <he… [at] comcast.net> wrote: From: Harleigh Ewell <he… [at] comcast.net> Subject: [Cal_Boats] RE: Stumped by Universal 5424 overheating. To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, June 23, 2008, 11:29 AM My (now deceased) Universal 5416 used to air lock in the water heater. Installing an overflow tank higher than the heater solved the problem. At the same time, I installed the next larger size heat exchanger; they are not very expensive. I wouldn't think that 180 would be a particularly high temp for a fresh-water- cooled engine. Harleigh Ewell Cal 31 From: Downing, Thomas [mailto:Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com] On Behalf Of Downing, Thomas Sent: Monday, June 23, 2008 9:33 AM To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Subject: Stumped by Universal 5424 overheating. I'm trying to figure out the cause of an overheating Universal 5424 diesel. Under a light load (in gear at 1800 rpm), when the thermostat opens, the temp goes from 160 to 180 in about 20 seconds or so. What's been done so far: 1. raw water pump checked. Flow is good 2. heat exchanger disassembled, found clean with no obstructions. 3. Thermostat, sender and gauge checked for accuracy, all good. 4. No coolant loss ever observed. 5. Coolant pump removed, no damage to impeller, impeller secure 6. All hoses (except between water heater and engine) checked. (Water heater hoses 2 years old. 7. water circulates through system as fast as a garden hose with good pressure can deliver it - in either direction, input at any point. The only observable symptom is that it seemed there was not much, if any circulation into the coolant resavior. This would account for the overheating, of course. To check this, we ran the hose that goes from coolant pump output to the resavior from the pump to a bucket, and stood by to keep the resavior filled when the t-stat opened. Yep, no flow. So, why is there no flow? We are stumped. On the idea that the pump was air-locked, started the engine, and kept introducing water into the circuit by via the bypass whenever it would take water under low pressure. This got us nowhere. We did not have the means at hand to introduce water via the input to the pump from the heat exchanger at hand, but could try that during the week. Is there anything special about this engine - is there some known air-lock problem? Btw, the only point in the system that is as high as the resavoir is a loop in the hose between the resavoir and the hot-water heater, that comes just about as high as the return from the pump to the resavior. All other components are lower than the level of coolant in the resavior. Thanks for any clues Thomas Downing

We checked the t-stat and the sender/gauge by the hot water and thermometer method, as you say. The problem with the last change approach is that there was no last change. The engine was fine for a month after launch. In the middle of the month, (2 weeks after launch) the raw water impeller was changed, no temp problems for 2 weeks. Then Bingo. So my best guess is low coolant resulting in air lock...but that's only a guess. I am going to recommend the high resavior and see if that cures the problem. thanks td From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com on behalf of john raxter Sent: Tue 6/24/2008 7:09 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [SPAM][Cal_Boats] Stumped by Universal 5424 overheating. Thomas, How did you check the T-stat? we use to put the stat in a pot on the stove, and watch the action (and temps) until we achieved full open. Of course they are relatively cheap to replace, so a new out-of-the box t-stat would eliminate that piece of the puzzle. As someone else mentioned, the Water heater was the "last change" before the problem started. Going back and bleeding the water heater hoses to eliminate that as well. By Checking and changing one piece at a time, you will eliminate that part as the problem. This will eventually provide you with a solution, and a guide to future repairs. Happy hunting, John DISCLAIMER: Important Notice ************************************************* This e-mail may contain information that is confidential, privileged or otherwise protected from disclosure. If you are not an intended recipient of this e-mail, do not duplicate or redistribute it by any means. Please delete it and any attachments and notify the sender that you have received it in error. Unintended recipients are prohibited from taking action on the basis of information in this e-mail.E-mail messages may contain computer viruses or other defects, may not be accurately replicated on other systems, or may be intercepted, deleted or interfered with without the knowledge of the sender or the intended recipient. If you are not comfortable with the risks associated with e-mail messages, you may decide not to use e-mail to communicate with IPC. IPC reserves the right, to the extent and under circumstances permitted by applicable law, to retain, monitor and intercept e-mail messages to and from its systems.