bulkhead Progress questions

For David and others...I'm working my way through the demolition and following the photos I see through David's and other's websites....questions before I plunge the rotozip in specific areas....first the forward bulkhead and bathroom floor pan removal...you had to cut the forward built-in around the water tank. Is this to access the screws holding the pan in place? Was it necessary to remove the water tank to do this job? Also, the ice-box. I've cut the cabin counter just to the right of the ice-box...as well as the cabinet facing to access the ice-box. I'm pulling out the insulation and trying to remove the ice-box itself in good condition to re-use. The counter seems to be tabbed into the hull on the back-side where the sliding storage cabinets are located. I'm also in the area where the lower chainplates are attached to the hull with a small bulhead tab. What direction could you give to cut to the minimum here? Wish I could post pictures of this mess, having fun, however! !

Oh boy. Thought I¹d throw out some things to think about..... Pan/bulkhead: Be sure and make templates of the bulkheads before/as you remove them if that is in your plans. I did not replace the forward bulkhead, but I did scarf some new plywood across the bottom where there was minor rot. The forward bulkhead has a cleat across the bottom, which the forward edge of the pan is bolted to. Since the stringers that support the water tank dead end into the forward side of the forward bulkhead, you will end up removing the water tank if the bulkhead is coming out. If the bulkhead is not coming out, you probably could slide a sawzall blade through and cut the bolts that support the forward pan lip, but you would need to engineer an alternative way to secure the front end of the pan to the bulkhead when you put it back in. I can¹t help but surmise that the easiest route in all cases is to just pull that water tank out. Ice box: The back (or outer) flange of the ice box is bolted into the counter first and then was tabbed into the hull as a unit. Unfortunately, the bolt heads are hidden under the tabbing. Fortunately, a 4² angle grinder with a 36 grit disc will quickly skin enough tabbing to find the buried bolt-heads and then just dig them out of the tabbing. You can add some additional tabbing later if you feel any concern about what you cut away to expose the bolt heads. On re-assembly I used stainless construction screws (with properly sized pilot holes) to suck the ice box back up to the counter (just to clamp while the 5200 sets up.) I didn¹t find it necessary to cut too close to the mini-bulkhead that the lower chainplate is mounted on. I can¹t recall exactly, but probably an inch and a half away.... As long as you put it all back with some doubled or sistered backing, I don¹t think it¹s a concern. Keep having fun... David Wilkie Owen From: James Bibb <ja… [at] yahoo.com> Reply-To: <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2008 16:47:33 -0000 To: <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Subject: [Cal_Boats] bulkhead Progress questions For David and others...I'm working my way through the demolition and following the photos I see through David's and other's websites....questions before I plunge the rotozip in specific areas....first the forward bulkhead and bathroom floor pan removal...you had to cut the forward built-in around the water tank. Is this to access the screws holding the pan in place? Was it necessary to remove the water tank to do this job? Also, the ice-box. I've cut the cabin counter just to the right of the ice-box...as well as the cabinet facing to access the ice-box. I'm pulling out the insulation and trying to remove the ice-box itself in good condition to re-use. The counter seems to be tabbed into the hull on the back-side where the sliding storage cabinets are located. I'm also in the area where the lower chainplates are attached to the hull with a small bulhead tab. What direction could you give to cut to the minimum here? Wish I could post pictures of this mess, having fun, however! !

Oh boy is right, thanks David! I wouldn't be doing this without those pioneers ahead of me! James --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, David Wilkie Owen <wilkie@...> wrote: > > > > Oh boy. > > Thought I¹d throw out some things to think about..... > > Pan/bulkhead: > > Be sure and make templates of the bulkheads before/as you remove them if > that is in your plans. > > I did not replace the forward bulkhead, but I did scarf some new plywood > across the bottom where there was minor rot. The forward bulkhead has a > cleat across the bottom, which the forward edge of the pan is bolted to. > Since the stringers that support the water tank dead end into the forward > side of the forward bulkhead, you will end up removing the water tank if > the bulkhead is coming out. If the bulkhead is not coming out, you probably > could slide a sawzall blade through and cut the bolts that support the > forward pan lip, but you would need to engineer an alternative way to secure > the front end of the pan to the bulkhead when you put it back in. I can¹t > help but surmise that the easiest route in all cases is to just pull that > water tank out. > > Ice box: > > The back (or outer) flange of the ice box is bolted into the counter first > and then was tabbed into the hull as a unit. Unfortunately, the bolt heads > are hidden under the tabbing. Fortunately, a 4² angle grinder with a 36 > grit disc will quickly skin enough tabbing to find the buried bolt-heads and > then just dig them out of the tabbing. You can add some additional tabbing > later if you feel any concern about what you cut away to expose the bolt > heads. > > On re-assembly I used stainless construction screws (with properly sized > pilot holes) to suck the ice box back up to the counter (just to clamp while > the 5200 sets up.) I didn¹t find it necessary to cut too close to the > mini-bulkhead that the lower chainplate is mounted on. I can¹t recall > exactly, but probably an inch and a half away.... As long as you put it all > back with some doubled or sistered backing, I don¹t think it¹s a concern. > > Keep having fun... > > David Wilkie Owen > > > > From: James Bibb <jamesbibb84@...> > Reply-To: <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> > Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2008 16:47:33 -0000 > To: <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> > Subject: [Cal_Boats] bulkhead Progress questions > > > > > For David and others...I'm working my way through the demolition and > following the photos I > see through David's and other's websites....questions before I plunge the > rotozip in specific > areas....first the forward bulkhead and bathroom floor pan removal...you had > to cut the > forward built-in around the water tank. Is this to access the screws > holding the pan in > place? Was it necessary to remove the water tank to do this job? > > Also, the ice-box. I've cut the cabin counter just to the right of the > ice-box...as well as the > cabinet facing to access the ice-box. I'm pulling out the insulation and > trying to remove the > ice-box itself in good condition to re-use. The counter seems to be tabbed > into the hull on > the back-side where the sliding storage cabinets are located. I'm also in > the area where the > lower chainplates are attached to the hull with a small bulhead tab. What > direction could you > give to cut to the minimum here? > > Wish I could post pictures of this mess, having fun, however! > > ! >

Oh boy is right, thanks David! I wouldn't be doing this without those pioneers ahead of me! James --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, David Wilkie Owen <wilkie@...> wrote: > > > > Oh boy. > > Thought I¹d throw out some things to think about..... > > Pan/bulkhead: > > Be sure and make templates of the bulkheads before/as you remove them if > that is in your plans. > > I did not replace the forward bulkhead, but I did scarf some new plywood > across the bottom where there was minor rot. The forward bulkhead has a > cleat across the bottom, which the forward edge of the pan is bolted to. > Since the stringers that support the water tank dead end into the forward > side of the forward bulkhead, you will end up removing the water tank if > the bulkhead is coming out. If the bulkhead is not coming out, you probably > could slide a sawzall blade through and cut the bolts that support the > forward pan lip, but you would need to engineer an alternative way to secure > the front end of the pan to the bulkhead when you put it back in. I can¹t > help but surmise that the easiest route in all cases is to just pull that > water tank out. > > Ice box: > > The back (or outer) flange of the ice box is bolted into the counter first > and then was tabbed into the hull as a unit. Unfortunately, the bolt heads > are hidden under the tabbing. Fortunately, a 4² angle grinder with a 36 > grit disc will quickly skin enough tabbing to find the buried bolt-heads and > then just dig them out of the tabbing. You can add some additional tabbing > later if you feel any concern about what you cut away to expose the bolt > heads. > > On re-assembly I used stainless construction screws (with properly sized > pilot holes) to suck the ice box back up to the counter (just to clamp while > the 5200 sets up.) I didn¹t find it necessary to cut too close to the > mini-bulkhead that the lower chainplate is mounted on. I can¹t recall > exactly, but probably an inch and a half away.... As long as you put it all > back with some doubled or sistered backing, I don¹t think it¹s a concern. > > Keep having fun... > > David Wilkie Owen > > > > From: James Bibb <jamesbibb84@...> > Reply-To: <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> > Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2008 16:47:33 -0000 > To: <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> > Subject: [Cal_Boats] bulkhead Progress questions > > > > > For David and others...I'm working my way through the demolition and > following the photos I > see through David's and other's websites....questions before I plunge the > rotozip in specific > areas....first the forward bulkhead and bathroom floor pan removal...you had > to cut the > forward built-in around the water tank. Is this to access the screws > holding the pan in > place? Was it necessary to remove the water tank to do this job? > > Also, the ice-box. I've cut the cabin counter just to the right of the > ice-box...as well as the > cabinet facing to access the ice-box. I'm pulling out the insulation and > trying to remove the > ice-box itself in good condition to re-use. The counter seems to be tabbed > into the hull on > the back-side where the sliding storage cabinets are located. I'm also in > the area where the > lower chainplates are attached to the hull with a small bulhead tab. What > direction could you > give to cut to the minimum here? > > Wish I could post pictures of this mess, having fun, however! > > ! >

Oh, and thanks David regarding the front bulkhead....I was trying to dissect your photos and thought that you cut the base of the forward bulkhead to access bolts...if I didn't stop to itch some of the fiberglass from my arm and take a break, I'd be whaling away with the sawsall....damn that's a destructive and great tool. --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, "James Bibb" <jamesbibb84@...> wrote: > > For David and others...I'm working my way through the demolition and following the photos I > see through David's and other's websites....questions before I plunge the rotozip in specific > areas....first the forward bulkhead and bathroom floor pan removal...you had to cut the > forward built-in around the water tank. Is this to access the screws holding the pan in > place? Was it necessary to remove the water tank to do this job? > > Also, the ice-box. I've cut the cabin counter just to the right of the ice-box...as well as the > cabinet facing to access the ice-box. I'm pulling out the insulation and trying to remove the > ice-box itself in good condition to re-use. The counter seems to be tabbed into the hull on > the back-side where the sliding storage cabinets are located. I'm also in the area where the > lower chainplates are attached to the hull with a small bulhead tab. What direction could you > give to cut to the minimum here? > > Wish I could post pictures of this mess, having fun, however! > > > ! >