Re: [Cal_Boats] Re: Paint for interior 2-29 bulkhead

My response to my last account statement was ³SSSHHHHRRREEEEDDDDD² before my wife sees it. Yow! Glad you got the beam in and the 5200 is a perfect bed (IMO) for the beam. At least I hope so, because that¹s what I did. I got a look at the 5200 under my beam when I cut the pan sole away and it was flexible and tough and I couldn¹t be happier with having it under the beam. Yup, I was talking about the bridge over the beam for sure. Two part paint is tougher to use than the beam, but doesn¹t look any better. It just won¹t scuff as easily and should last longer. Brightsides is easier to touch up, so it may be a good tradeoff. Hope you get that mast up before your manhood becomes in question. Wilkie From: James Bibb <ja… [at] yahoo.com> Reply-To: <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 20:09:31 -0000 To: <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: Paint for interior 2-29 bulkhead That's right! "AARRRRGGGGHHHH"....no wait, that's my reaction to my last checking account statement! The beam was capped by cutting the fiberglass totally away and laying up a completely new bridge between the main cabin and the head pan. It turned out really nice. Regarding the beam contacting the hull...I put down a nice bed of 5200...however it's thin after I had to flatten the height as much as possible. So, the glass tunnel is in reference to the bridge over the beam or are you referring to the pan plus other tabbing with the cabinetry/ settee? Regarding the paint....wow "two-part"....this is new to me. I'm trying to get the bulkheads in, but realized that I should probably repaint the pan, and all I want to do is tab in the bulkhead so that I can put my mast back up. I'm gaining an inferiority complex with my other sailing neighbors. They can't decide whether to start up dock conversations by classifying me as a motor yacht or a sailing yacht. I've got to get that mast back up so I can go to sleep at night. Thanks, Wilkie. Hey, I'm waiting for pictures and the report for the keel operation. Are you going to post something on your website? James --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <mailto:Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> , David Wilkie Owen <wilkie@...> wrote: > > > > James, > > You¹re an animal! Aaaarggghhhhhh! > > Been meaning to ask, but so darned busy on Mariposa (she floats again and > sails really well, but that¹s another post) that I keep forgetting ‹ what > was your solution on the pan and exposed beam situation? I was looking > through folders trying to remember what my exact response was at the time, > but I can¹t find it? It¹s possible that it sat in my drafts folder a couple > of days and got trashed before I sent it. The gist of it was that the glass > tunnel was also a structural part of the assembly and the beam should not > contact the hull directly..... Hope this isn¹t too after the fact. > > Visited your photo album. I had a very unpleasant flashback, but I remember > how great it felt to go sailing after all of that work was done. Same > effect with my current project. > > As far as covering the pan, other than the cost I¹d recommend Interlux Epoxy > Barrier Coat 404/414 (High Build Primer that sticks to epoxy) as a first > step. It¹s a two part primer that has to sit for 20 minutes and then be > thinned and it really stinks, but it¹s good stuff and pretty easy to sand. > Then you can use Brightside or Interthane plus or almost any other paint > that you can think of. I used Brightside because I was in a hurry and > already had the paint and special thinners. It¹s not durable enough in my > opinion, so the Interthane would be a better choice though more difficult to > work with. The problem with all of these materials is that they are > expensive and need their own proprietary thinners, which are expensive as > well. > > Maybe somebody will chime in with some alternatives. > > Gotta Run. > > Wilkie > > > > > > From: James Bibb <jamesbibb84@...> > Reply-To: <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <mailto:Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> > > Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 17:11:55 -0000 > To: <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <mailto:Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> > > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Paint for interior 2-29 bulkhead > > > > > I'm asking for recommendations for interior paint/finish. I need to > re-paint the fiberglass > deck pan as well as build up the hull from raw fiberglass towards the > project this fall/winter > which will be teak interior off of adhered nailing strips....so fiberglass, > paint, insulation > airspace...and teak T & G. > > I'm about to tab in my new bulkheads and I'm trying to rush past re-painting > the spiced in > fiberglass deck pan after I cut the head portion out during the steel beam > replacement. > > Pictures on my picture page. > > Gel-coat for the interior fiberglass pan? Marine paint to prime and finish > the fiberglass > hull? > > Thanks. >

Should have read ³two part paint is tougher to use than the one part paint.² W From: David Wilkie Owen <wi… [at] mariposasailing.com> Reply-To: <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 22:16:06 -0700 To: <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Conversation: [Cal_Boats] Re: Paint for interior 2-29 bulkhead Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Re: Paint for interior 2-29 bulkhead My response to my last account statement was ³SSSHHHHRRREEEEDDDDD² before my wife sees it. Yow! Glad you got the beam in and the 5200 is a perfect bed (IMO) for the beam. At least I hope so, because that¹s what I did. I got a look at the 5200 under my beam when I cut the pan sole away and it was flexible and tough and I couldn¹t be happier with having it under the beam. Yup, I was talking about the bridge over the beam for sure. Two part paint is tougher to use than the beam, but doesn¹t look any better. It just won¹t scuff as easily and should last longer. Brightsides is easier to touch up, so it may be a good tradeoff. Hope you get that mast up before your manhood becomes in question. Wilkie From: James Bibb <ja… [at] yahoo.com> Reply-To: <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 20:09:31 -0000 To: <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: Paint for interior 2-29 bulkhead That's right! "AARRRRGGGGHHHH"....no wait, that's my reaction to my last checking account statement! The beam was capped by cutting the fiberglass totally away and laying up a completely new bridge between the main cabin and the head pan. It turned out really nice. Regarding the beam contacting the hull...I put down a nice bed of 5200...however it's thin after I had to flatten the height as much as possible. So, the glass tunnel is in reference to the bridge over the beam or are you referring to the pan plus other tabbing with the cabinetry/ settee? Regarding the paint....wow "two-part"....this is new to me. I'm trying to get the bulkheads in, but realized that I should probably repaint the pan, and all I want to do is tab in the bulkhead so that I can put my mast back up. I'm gaining an inferiority complex with my other sailing neighbors. They can't decide whether to start up dock conversations by classifying me as a motor yacht or a sailing yacht. I've got to get that mast back up so I can go to sleep at night. Thanks, Wilkie. Hey, I'm waiting for pictures and the report for the keel operation. Are you going to post something on your website? James --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <mailto:Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> , David Wilkie Owen <wilkie@...> wrote: > > > > James, > > You¹re an animal! Aaaarggghhhhhh! > > Been meaning to ask, but so darned busy on Mariposa (she floats again and > sails really well, but that¹s another post) that I keep forgetting ‹ what > was your solution on the pan and exposed beam situation? I was looking > through folders trying to remember what my exact response was at the time, > but I can¹t find it? It¹s possible that it sat in my drafts folder a couple > of days and got trashed before I sent it. The gist of it was that the glass > tunnel was also a structural part of the assembly and the beam should not > contact the hull directly..... Hope this isn¹t too after the fact. > > Visited your photo album. I had a very unpleasant flashback, but I remember > how great it felt to go sailing after all of that work was done. Same > effect with my current project. > > As far as covering the pan, other than the cost I¹d recommend Interlux Epoxy > Barrier Coat 404/414 (High Build Primer that sticks to epoxy) as a first > step. It¹s a two part primer that has to sit for 20 minutes and then be > thinned and it really stinks, but it¹s good stuff and pretty easy to sand. > Then you can use Brightside or Interthane plus or almost any other paint > that you can think of. I used Brightside because I was in a hurry and > already had the paint and special thinners. It¹s not durable enough in my > opinion, so the Interthane would be a better choice though more difficult to > work with. The problem with all of these materials is that they are > expensive and need their own proprietary thinners, which are expensive as > well. > > Maybe somebody will chime in with some alternatives. > > Gotta Run. > > Wilkie > > > > > > From: James Bibb <jamesbibb84@...> > Reply-To: <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <mailto:Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> > > Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 17:11:55 -0000 > To: <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <mailto:Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> > > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Paint for interior 2-29 bulkhead > > > > > I'm asking for recommendations for interior paint/finish. I need to > re-paint the fiberglass > deck pan as well as build up the hull from raw fiberglass towards the > project this fall/winter > which will be teak interior off of adhered nailing strips....so fiberglass, > paint, insulation > airspace...and teak T & G. > > I'm about to tab in my new bulkheads and I'm trying to rush past re-painting > the spiced in > fiberglass deck pan after I cut the head portion out during the steel beam > replacement. > > Pictures on my picture page. > > Gel-coat for the interior fiberglass pan? Marine paint to prime and finish > the fiberglass > hull? > > Thanks. >