just bought 1977 Cal 27- help with a leak

Hi all, I recently bought my first boat. A Cal 27 built in 1977. Now I will undertake the task of getting the boat back into shape. On my list is fixing a leak at the cabin top, around the mast. I noticed a leak on the wall and traced it to the area by the door to the head/v berth. There are some wood plugs that seem to hide the screws securing a cover where the leak seems to originate, I was thinking of drilling a small hole in them and using a small screw to see if I could remove them. Has anyone had a similar leak and solution? It seems as if the water comes down the wiring. Would a mast boot work or is that just a temproary repair? I also noticed a product at West Marine, Spartite that seems like it would help but I don't want to cover up a core problem if the leak has been an issue for a while. Thank you in advance for your advice! Bryan Saulsbury

a hole is drilled through the deck and mast step through which the wires pass. that hole plus possibly the bolts/screws holding down the mast step plate are common leak sites. Recommendation? unstep mast and re-bed mast step plate. While it is down, inspect all standing rigging. Dye test all swages. inspect all wiring and replace anywhich is corroded. Check out lights and antennas. Replace bulbs while it is down. When re-stepping incorproate a drip loop in the wiring and a drain hole at base of mast. Inspect sheaves at masthead. Reggie To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: bs… [at] yahoo.com Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 21:20:47 +0000 Subject: [Cal_Boats] just bought 1977 Cal 27- help with a leak Hi all, I recently bought my first boat. A Cal 27 built in 1977. Now I will undertake the task of getting the boat back into shape. On my list is fixing a leak at the cabin top, around the mast. I noticed a leak on the wall and traced it to the area by the door to the head/v berth. There are some wood plugs that seem to hide the screws securing a cover where the leak seems to originate, I was thinking of drilling a small hole in them and using a small screw to see if I could remove them. Has anyone had a similar leak and solution? It seems as if the water comes down the wiring. Would a mast boot work or is that just a temproary repair? I also noticed a product at West Marine, Spartite that seems like it would help but I don't want to cover up a core problem if the leak has been an issue for a while. Thank you in advance for your advice! Bryan Saulsbury

Bryan, You didn't mention the model of Cal 27. I have a '72 pop-top, and had the same problem. Once I got up the nerve, I unstepped the mast, removed the step plate and removed all the wiring (antenna and mast lighting). I cleaned out the wiring hole and used copious amounts of Git-Rot to harden the wood around the hole (through the deck), and let it set. I then pulled new wiring (extra wire for masthead, anchor, running light, spreader light, new VHF)up through the hole using a pull wire attached to the old wiring (I pulled down- I did not remove the wooden wiring channel) up thru the deck). I pulled extra through, and squeezed lots of 3M 4200 back into the hole and SLIGHTLY pulled an inch of the bundle back down. Once that set, I smeared additional sealant into the hole, and smeared plenty of sealant on the bottom of the step plate, after feeding the wiring bundle through the hole in the plate. I re-screwed the plate in position, not quite tight until the sealant had set-up. Once everything had cured, I tightened the plate to the deck, verifying the plate matched the original outline of the gelcoat. I trimmed the excess sealant, and I added more sealant around the wire bundle exit above the plate before stepping the mast. I haven't had a leak in 4 years. If the screw holes are worn or rotted, I suggest filling with Git-Rot or another epoxy compound, and let set before reseating the plate. I installed a new VHF connector and a multi-pin connector (Mil-spec) on the coax and wiring harness (above deck), and added new matching connectors on the mast wiring. The new wiring was re-run in the hull to the fuse block(s) and VHF radio. If you replace the wiring, I recommend using the largest (RG8x) coax that will fit. At this time, I also re-ran the wiring in the mast to match... I hope this helps some. Regards, Dave Leasia s/v Candy Cane 1972 Cal 27 pop-top Grosse Pointe Farms, MI (CSYC) --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, "bsauls925" <bsauls925@...> wrote: > > Hi all, > > I recently bought my first boat. A Cal 27 built in 1977. Now I will > undertake the task of getting the boat back into shape. On my list is > fixing a leak at the cabin top, around the mast. I noticed a leak on > the wall and traced it to the area by the door to the head/v berth. > There are some wood plugs that seem to hide the screws securing a > cover where the leak seems to originate, I was thinking of drilling a > small hole in them and using a small screw to see if I could remove > them. Has anyone had a similar leak and solution? It seems as if the > water comes down the wiring. Would a mast boot work or is that just a > temproary repair? I also noticed a product at West Marine, Spartite > that seems like it would help but I don't want to cover up a core > problem if the leak has been an issue for a while. Thank you in > advance for your advice! > > Bryan Saulsbury >

As someone else mentioned, put a few mouse holes (at least one) at the base of the mast for drainage. I have been drilling holes near the base of the mast and bringing the wiring out to external holes in the deck. I hate to have a hole in the deck I cannot inspect (like one inside the mast step). Cheers Charlie Annapolis From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leasia Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2009 12:48 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: just bought 1977 Cal 27- help with a leak Bryan, You didn't mention the model of Cal 27. I have a '72 pop-top, and had the same problem. Once I got up the nerve, I unstepped the mast, removed the step plate and removed all the wiring (antenna and mast lighting). I cleaned out the wiring hole and used copious amounts of Git-Rot to harden the wood around the hole (through the deck), and let it set. I then pulled new wiring (extra wire for masthead, anchor, running light, spreader light, new VHF)up through the hole using a pull wire attached to the old wiring (I pulled down- I did not remove the wooden wiring channel) up thru the deck). I pulled extra through, and squeezed lots of 3M 4200 back into the hole and SLIGHTLY pulled an inch of the bundle back down. Once that set, I smeared additional sealant into the hole, and smeared plenty of sealant on the bottom of the step plate, after feeding the wiring bundle through the hole in the plate. I re-screwed the plate in position, not quite tight until the sealant had set-up. Once everything had cured, I tightened the plate to the deck, verifying the plate matched the original outline of the gelcoat. I trimmed the excess sealant, and I added more sealant around the wire bundle exit above the plate before stepping the mast. I haven't had a leak in 4 years. If the screw holes are worn or rotted, I suggest filling with Git-Rot or another epoxy compound, and let set before reseating the plate. I installed a new VHF connector and a multi-pin connector (Mil-spec) on the coax and wiring harness (above deck), and added new matching connectors on the mast wiring. The new wiring was re-run in the hull to the fuse block(s) and VHF radio. If you replace the wiring, I recommend using the largest (RG8x) coax that will fit. At this time, I also re-ran the wiring in the mast to match... I hope this helps some. Regards, Dave Leasia s/v Candy Cane 1972 Cal 27 pop-top Grosse Pointe Farms, MI (CSYC) --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, "bsauls925" <bsauls925@...> wrote: > > Hi all, > > I recently bought my first boat. A Cal 27 built in 1977. Now I will > undertake the task of getting the boat back into shape. On my list is > fixing a leak at the cabin top, around the mast. I noticed a leak on > the wall and traced it to the area by the door to the head/v berth. > There are some wood plugs that seem to hide the screws securing a > cover where the leak seems to originate, I was thinking of drilling a > small hole in them and using a small screw to see if I could remove > them. Has anyone had a similar leak and solution? It seems as if the > water comes down the wiring. Would a mast boot work or is that just a > temproary repair? I also noticed a product at West Marine, Spartite > that seems like it would help but I don't want to cover up a core > problem if the leak has been an issue for a while. Thank you in > advance for your advice! > > Bryan Saulsbury > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links

Dave, I would be interested in how many pins your connector has and where you got it. That job has been on my list for a couple of years. Thanks, David Dobbs --- On Tue, 2/17/09, Dave Leasia <te… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > From: Dave Leasia <te… [at] yahoo.com> > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: just bought 1977 Cal 27- help with a leak > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > Date: Tuesday, February 17, 2009, 11:48 PM > Bryan, > > You didn't mention the model of Cal 27. > I have a '72 pop-top, and had the same problem. Once I > got up the > nerve, I unstepped the mast, removed the step plate and > removed all > the wiring (antenna and mast lighting). I cleaned out the > wiring hole > and used copious amounts of Git-Rot to harden the wood > around the hole > (through the deck), and let it set. I then pulled new > wiring (extra > wire for masthead, anchor, running light, spreader light, > new VHF)up > through the hole using a pull wire attached to the old > wiring (I > pulled down- I did not remove the wooden wiring channel) up > thru the > deck). I pulled extra through, and squeezed lots of 3M 4200 > back into > the hole and SLIGHTLY pulled an inch of the bundle back > down. Once > that set, I smeared additional sealant into the hole, and > smeared > plenty of sealant on the bottom of the step plate, after > feeding the > wiring bundle through the hole in the plate. I re-screwed > the plate in > position, not quite tight until the sealant had set-up. > Once > everything had cured, I tightened the plate to the deck, > verifying the > plate matched the original outline of the gelcoat. I > trimmed the > excess sealant, and I added more sealant around the wire > bundle exit > above the plate before stepping the mast. I haven't had > a leak in 4 years. > > If the screw holes are worn or rotted, I suggest filling > with > Git-Rot or another epoxy compound, and let set before > reseating the > plate. I installed a new VHF connector and a multi-pin > connector > (Mil-spec) on the coax and wiring harness (above deck), and > added new > matching connectors on the mast wiring. The new wiring was > re-run in > the hull to the fuse block(s) and VHF radio. If you replace > the > wiring, I recommend using the largest (RG8x) coax that will > fit. > > At this time, I also re-ran the wiring in the mast to > match... > > I hope this helps some. > > Regards, > > Dave Leasia > s/v Candy Cane > 1972 Cal 27 pop-top > Grosse Pointe Farms, MI > (CSYC) > > > > --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, "bsauls925" > <bsauls925@...> wrote: > > > > Hi all, > > > > I recently bought my first boat. A Cal 27 built in > 1977. Now I will > > undertake the task of getting the boat back into > shape. On my list is > > fixing a leak at the cabin top, around the mast. I > noticed a leak on > > the wall and traced it to the area by the door to the > head/v berth. > > There are some wood plugs that seem to hide the screws > securing a > > cover where the leak seems to originate, I was > thinking of drilling a > > small hole in them and using a small screw to see if I > could remove > > them. Has anyone had a similar leak and solution? It > seems as if the > > water comes down the wiring. Would a mast boot work > or is that just a > > temproary repair? I also noticed a product at West > Marine, Spartite > > that seems like it would help but I don't want to > cover up a core > > problem if the leak has been an issue for a while. > Thank you in > > advance for your advice! > > > > Bryan Saulsbury > >

I also ran my wiring external for Charlie's reason plus being able to install a connector for removing the mast. However, a connector could also be installed inside the mast and disconnected while the mast is suspended over yoru hands,or you could just disconnect the wires inside the boat and pull them through each time you want to unstep the mast. I've attached a photo Reggie To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: hu… [at] bah.com Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 01:01:17 -0500 Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] Re: just bought 1977 Cal 27- help with a leak As someone else mentioned, put a few mouse holes (at least one) at the base of the mast for drainage. I have been drilling holes near the base of the mast and bringing the wiring out to external holes in the deck. I hate to have a hole in the deck I cannot inspect (like one inside the mast step). Cheers Charlie Annapolis From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leasia Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2009 12:48 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: just bought 1977 Cal 27- help with a leak Bryan, You didn't mention the model of Cal 27. I have a '72 pop-top, and had the same problem. Once I got up the nerve, I unstepped the mast, removed the step plate and removed all the wiring (antenna and mast lighting). I cleaned out the wiring hole and used copious amounts of Git-Rot to harden the wood around the hole (through the deck), and let it set. I then pulled new wiring (extra wire for masthead, anchor, running light, spreader light, new VHF)up through the hole using a pull wire attached to the old wiring (I pulled down- I did not remove the wooden wiring channel) up thru the deck). I pulled extra through, and squeezed lots of 3M 4200 back into the hole and SLIGHTLY pulled an inch of the bundle back down. Once that set, I smeared additional sealant into the hole, and smeared plenty of sealant on the bottom of the step plate, after feeding the wiring bundle through the hole in the plate. I re-screwed the plate in position, not quite tight until the sealant had set-up. Once everything had cured, I tightened the plate to the deck, verifying the plate matched the original outline of the gelcoat. I trimmed the excess sealant, and I added more sealant around the wire bundle exit above the plate before stepping the mast. I haven't had a leak in 4 years. If the screw holes are worn or rotted, I suggest filling with Git-Rot or another epoxy compound, and let set before reseating the plate. I installed a new VHF connector and a multi-pin connector (Mil-spec) on the coax and wiring harness (above deck), and added new matching connectors on the mast wiring. The new wiring was re-run in the hull to the fuse block(s) and VHF radio. If you replace the wiring, I recommend using the largest (RG8x) coax that will fit. At this time, I also re-ran the wiring in the mast to match... I hope this helps some. Regards, Dave Leasia s/v Candy Cane 1972 Cal 27 pop-top Grosse Pointe Farms, MI (CSYC) --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, "bsauls925" <bsauls925@...> wrote: > > Hi all, > > I recently bought my first boat. A Cal 27 built in 1977. Now I will > undertake the task of getting the boat back into shape. On my list is > fixing a leak at the cabin top, around the mast. I noticed a leak on > the wall and traced it to the area by the door to the head/v berth. > There are some wood plugs that seem to hide the screws securing a > cover where the leak seems to originate, I was thinking of drilling a > small hole in them and using a small screw to see if I could remove > them. Has anyone had a similar leak and solution? It seems as if the > water comes down the wiring. Would a mast boot work or is that just a > temproary repair? I also noticed a product at West Marine, Spartite > that seems like it would help but I don't want to cover up a core > problem if the leak has been an issue for a while. Thank you in > advance for your advice! > > Bryan Saulsbury > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links

David, Funny you should ask! I just ran across the invoice for said connectors. I purchased them from Mouser Electronics (www.mouser.com) May of 2005. I should have also purchased the screw-on caps at the same time. The connectors I bought are: Amphenol 97-3101A-20-16S cable mount receptacle Amphenol 97-3106B-20-16P cable mount straight plug Amphenol 97-3057-1012-1 bushing These have 7 #16 pins and 2 #12 pins. After soldering the wiring to the connectors, I filled the back sides of both with silicone sealant (3M) to prevent corrosion, and use dielectric grease on the exposed pins/socket as well. I also rewired with Ancor 20 ga. marine wire for the lighting (positive)feeds, and 12ga. marine wire for the return (ground). I have a couple of spare pins in case I need them. Total cost (then) was about $50 for all. I will be ordering the caps for winter storage of the boat & unstepped mast soon (currently I bag them). I hope this helps... Dave Leasia '72 Cal 27 pop-top #145 s/v Candy Cane Crescent Sail Yacht Club Grosse Pointe Farms, MI. --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, david dobbs <tmft567@...> wrote: > > > Dave, > I would be interested in how many pins your connector has and where you got it. That job has been on my list for a couple of years. > Thanks, > David Dobbs > > >

Dave, Another funny thing, my 29 was originally owned by a guy named Sears from Detroit. He raced it for some years; sail number is 5443, a Detroit number. I will keep it as my sail number. Dave Dobbs, Cal 29 411, s/n 5443 --- On Wed, 2/18/09, Dave Leasia <te… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > From: Dave Leasia <te… [at] yahoo.com> > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: Mast wiring(Dave L) > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > Date: Wednesday, February 18, 2009, 7:13 PM > David, > > Funny you should ask! I just ran across the invoice for > said > connectors. I purchased them from Mouser Electronics > (www.mouser.com) > May of 2005. I should have also purchased the screw-on caps > at the > same time. The connectors I bought are: > Amphenol 97-3101A-20-16S cable mount receptacle > Amphenol 97-3106B-20-16P cable mount straight plug > Amphenol 97-3057-1012-1 bushing > > These have 7 #16 pins and 2 #12 pins. After soldering the > wiring to > the connectors, I filled the back sides of both with > silicone sealant > (3M) to prevent corrosion, and use dielectric grease on the > exposed > pins/socket as well. I also rewired with Ancor 20 ga. > marine wire for > the lighting (positive)feeds, and 12ga. marine wire for the > return > (ground). I have a couple of spare pins in case I need > them. Total > cost (then) was about $50 for all. > I will be ordering the caps for winter storage of the boat > & > unstepped mast soon (currently I bag them). > > I hope this helps... > > Dave Leasia > '72 Cal 27 pop-top #145 > s/v Candy Cane > Crescent Sail Yacht Club > Grosse Pointe Farms, MI. > > > > --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, david dobbs > <tmft567@...> wrote: > > > > > > Dave, > > I would be interested in how many pins your connector > has and where > you got it. That job has been on my list for a couple of > years. > > Thanks, > > David Dobbs > > > > > >

Dave, It's not surprising your Cal was from the Motor City. Our club (CSYC) alone has numerous Cal 20's, 25's, 3-27's, a 28, a 29, 2-30's 2-33's and a 9.2 (our Commodore's boat, Jade).! Our annual Regatta has plenty of 20 and 25 fleet entries from all around the Great Lakes. We bought our 27 pop-top from the original owner, who used to race MORC on Erie and St. Clair. We kept his boat name AND sail number (15858). I'll check on your original owner... Regards, Telephone Dave --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, david dobbs <tmft567@...> wrote: > > > Dave, > Another funny thing, my 29 was originally owned by a guy named Sears from Detroit. He raced it for some years; sail number is 5443, a Detroit number. I will keep it as my sail number. > > Dave Dobbs, Cal 29 411, s/n 5443