Re:Bulkhead tabbing

Jeff inquired about bulkheads and tabbing and spacing. In our experience, the key is to avoid "hard points" where the bulkhead presses directly on the hull. We cut about half-inch strips of foam to use as spacers between the bulkhead and hull to ensure that there was no direct contact. I'm told that you can (should) use a good quality foam like Divinycell, but I suspect that any closed-cell foam (to avoid absorbing water) will do the job. Alfred Poor 1973 Tartan 34C #288 "Jambalaya" (former owner of 1969 Cal 29 #132 "Pentaquod")

Alfred: Thanks for your advise - I inspected the space a little better, and I can confirm that the gap was indeed filled sometime after manufacture. The original fiberglass worked itself loose, and one of the previous owners added two more layers of fiberglass, about 5 inches total onto the starboard bulkhead edge, filled the gaps, and drilled several spots to install screws to "attach" the bulkhead to the loosend joint. Anyway, again, thanks for the feedback - this aspect of the project can now continue! Jeff Owen '72 Cal 33 Hull #13 From: Alfred Poor <ap… [at] bellatlantic.net> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 8:03:00 AM Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re:Bulkhead tabbing Jeff inquired about bulkheads and tabbing and spacing. In our experience, the key is to avoid “hard points” where the bulkhead presses directly on the hull. We cut about half-inch strips of foam to use as spacers between the bulkhead and hull to ensure that there was no direct contact. I’m told that you can (should) use a good quality foam like Divinycell, but I suspect that any closed-cell foam (to avoid absorbing water) will do the job. Alfred Poor 1973 Tartan 34C #288 “Jambalaya” (former owner of 1969 Cal 29 #132 “Pentaquod”)

Always-Always-Always seal the edges of your wooden bulkheads, I like epoxy. Plywood/wood edges draw moisture into the wood, starting the rot process. From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jeffrey owen Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 7:55 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Re:Bulkhead tabbing Alfred: Thanks for your advise - I inspected the space a little better, and I can confirm that the gap was indeed filled sometime after manufacture. The original fiberglass worked itself loose, and one of the previous owners added two more layers of fiberglass, about 5 inches total onto the starboard bulkhead edge, filled the gaps, and drilled several spots to install screws to "attach" the bulkhead to the loosend joint. Anyway, again, thanks for the feedback - this aspect of the project can now continue! Jeff Owen '72 Cal 33 Hull #13 From: Alfred Poor <ap… [at] bellatlantic.net> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 8:03:00 AM Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re:Bulkhead tabbing Jeff inquired about bulkheads and tabbing and spacing. In our experience, the key is to avoid "hard points" where the bulkhead presses directly on the hull. We cut about half-inch strips of foam to use as spacers between the bulkhead and hull to ensure that there was no direct contact. I'm told that you can (should) use a good quality foam like Divinycell, but I suspect that any closed-cell foam (to avoid absorbing water) will do the job. Alfred Poor 1973 Tartan 34C #288 "Jambalaya" (former owner of 1969 Cal 29 #132 "Pentaquod")