Need Cal25 Mast Step

Hello I am looking for a replacement mast step for my Cal25. Here is a pic of what I have: http://muvvachicken.com/images/cal25/beam_deck5_8_09/DSCN0786s.jpg . The bottom is pretty corroded and I'm not sure I trust it any longer. Is there a source for these are do I have to find a used one? Any leads are appreciated! Also, the existing step was mounted to the deck with screws and the antenna and wiring passed through the center. This was a major source of water entry and the cause for my failed beam. Are screws the way to install this? Id like to use bolts and screws, but considering the construction I'm not sure it's possible (mast beam is in the way). Thanks Chris

Try Steve Seals (he was the rigger for Jensen Marine [aka Cal Boats]): http://www.sealsspars.com/ and check with Blue Pelican Marine (used stuff) http://www.bluepelicanmarine.com/ Mike Robinson Holiday Cal 36 #4 > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > From: no… [at] yahoo.com > Date: Sun, 24 May 2009 21:06:06 +0000 > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Need Cal25 Mast Step > > Hello > > I am looking for a replacement mast step for my Cal25. Here is a pic of what I have: http://muvvachicken.com/images/cal25/beam_deck5_8_09/DSCN0786s.jpg . The bottom is pretty corroded and I'm not sure I trust it any longer. > > Is there a source for these are do I have to find a used one? Any leads are appreciated! > > Also, the existing step was mounted to the deck with screws and the antenna and wiring passed through the center. This was a major source of water entry and the cause for my failed beam. Are screws the way to install this? Id like to use bolts and screws, but considering the construction I'm not sure it's possible (mast beam is in the way). > > Thanks > > Chris > > > > ------------------------------------ > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > Hotmail® goes with you. http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Mobile?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial_Mobile1_052009

Hi Chris, I will try to recall how I rebuilt my Cal 25 mast step. I was about 1975 or so. Anyway, the base of my mast was severely corroded for about two inches, plus the step. As I recall, I got some thick aluminum plate, the same thickness as the mast corrosion. This made up for the badly damaged part I sawed off. Then I cut another piece of the aluminum and shaped it too fit tightly inside the mast, bolted these two together, attached to the deck and drilled a hole for mast wiring and VHF antenna. Holy smokes! That was 34 years ago. I must have been a mere child. Tom Vandiver, Cal 46 & I have had Cal 25's since 1970 From: Chris Martin <no… [at] yahoo.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2009 4:06:06 PM Subject: [Cal_Boats] Need Cal25 Mast Step Hello I am looking for a replacement mast step for my Cal25. Here is a pic of what I have: http://muvvachicken .com/images/ cal25/beam_ deck5_8_09/ DSCN0786s. jpg . The bottom is pretty corroded and I'm not sure I trust it any longer. Is there a source for these are do I have to find a used one? Any leads are appreciated! Also, the existing step was mounted to the deck with screws and the antenna and wiring passed through the center. This was a major source of water entry and the cause for my failed beam. Are screws the way to install this? Id like to use bolts and screws, but considering the construction I'm not sure it's possible (mast beam is in the way). Thanks Chris

By the way, All, if this file is too fat, and you don't want the pictures sent, please let me know, and I'll do it on a one-on-one basis. I thought the pictures here would be generally informative. Chris, a number of items related to your note. It is always good to put a small limber hole (looks like a little mouse hole) at the base of your mast to let water out. I've seen boats where someone actually caulked around the base of the mast and would trap 6 to 8 inches of water inside. Rotted the bottom 6 inches of the mast. I would need to see the mast step part, but we may have one (there were two shapes of masts over the production of the 25). If I can't find one, it is easy to make a piece for not much $$. All it does is keep the bottom of the mast in the same place. Next item: The external mast pedestal is just as important as the inside beam. It has a wood insert inside. If that is soaked, just replacing the beam does little good. It will sag again. The pedestal helps transfer the load out to the two internal wood supports at the inside of the main bulkheads. Soaking this part would come from either a bad seal On the wiring through the step, or from bolting down turning blocks to the mast pedestal using wood screws (which always work loose after a while considering the stresses). Turning blocks should always be mounted to the mast itself or to one of the stainless plates that Steve Seal makes. Similarly, turning blocks should not be wood screwed to the deck over the top of the interior beam. Water leaks through runs down the beam going outboard, and exits at the chainplate. The Seal mast plate solution allows for more rotation of the blocks, and thus more options on where the turning blocks or deck organizer would go. These parts can be through bolted when forward of the internal mast beam. The photos of the pedestal are complements of Scott Sauvageot of our Annapolis Fleet, and his prominently displayed father, Bob. I moved the wiring out of the mast near the base, so it goes into the deck forward of the mast. I don't like deck holes I can't get to. Making beams is straight forward (if one has about 27 clamps, a couple hundred pounds of concentrated weight like lead, and lots of Saran wrap. I made two of them last month. Two methods are shown in the photos. 200 pounds is sufficient. I determined this by standing on it. There should be more words with all this, but my fingers are getting sore, and as they always say, a word is worth one millipicture. Cheers Charlie Annapolis From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Chris Martin Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2009 5:06 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: [Cal_Boats] Need Cal25 Mast Step Hello I am looking for a replacement mast step for my Cal25. Here is a pic of what I have: http://muvvachicken.com/images/cal25/beam_deck5_8_09/DSCN0786s.jpg . The bottom is pretty corroded and I'm not sure I trust it any longer. Is there a source for these are do I have to find a used one? Any leads are appreciated! Also, the existing step was mounted to the deck with screws and the antenna and wiring passed through the center. This was a major source of water entry and the cause for my failed beam. Are screws the way to install this? Id like to use bolts and screws, but considering the construction I'm not sure it's possible (mast beam is in the way). Thanks Chris ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links

Thanks Charlie, big help. Here is a bad photo of my mast step: http://muvvachicken.com/images/cal25/beam_deck5_8_09/DSCN0787.jpg it should resize to your browser, if not I can send a smaller version. My mast pedestal, thanks for the correct terminology, was very wet. I attacked it from the bottom though, there was some bad glass in the area and it came out pretty easily. Right now my concern is how to deal with the deck under the step. The gelcoat/fiberglass deflected from the corroded step and it's in pretty poor shape. I think I'll fair it from the bottom first and see how it looks. If it's too think I'll cut it out, but I'd much rather just fill it in from the top, we'll see. Can you tell me the proper was to attach the new mast step? I fear if I use screws again the same problems will crop up again in the future. However, I dont really see how to use nuts and bolts, unless I drill and tap expoxy plugs. Last thing, for now. Assuming I use one of the stainless organizers under the step, what's the best way to reduce the risk of corrosion between the dissimilar metals? I was thinking about using some sort of rubber, sort of as a gasket. What do you think? Thanks again, I'm getting there Chris btw. This is what the bottom of the pedestal looked like after removing the rotten deck plywood. :( http://muvvachicken.com/images/cal25/beam_deck5_8_09/DSCN0759s.jpg From: "Husar, Charlie [USA]" <hu… [at] bah.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, May 25, 2009 10:54:19 AM Subject: [Cal_Boats] Need Cal25 Mast Step (CAL 25 Chris) [10 Attachments] [Attachment(s) from Husar, Charlie [USA] included below] By the way, All, if this file is too fat, and you don't want the pictures sent, please let me know, and I'll do it on a one-on-one basis. I thought the pictures here would be generally informative. Chris, a number of items related to your note. It is always good to put a small limber hole (looks like a little mouse hole) at the base of your mast to let water out. I've seen boats where someone actually caulked around the base of the mast and would trap 6 to 8 inches of water inside. Rotted the bottom 6 inches of the mast. I would need to see the mast step part, but we may have one (there were two shapes of masts over the production of the 25). If I can't find one, it is easy to make a piece for not much $$. All it does is keep the bottom of the mast in the same place. Next item: The external mast pedestal is just as important as the inside beam. It has a wood insert inside. If that is soaked, just replacing the beam does little good. It will sag again. The pedestal helps transfer the load out to the two internal wood supports at the inside of the main bulkheads. Soaking this part would come from either a bad seal On the wiring through the step, or from bolting down turning blocks to the mast pedestal using wood screws (which always work loose after a while considering the stresses). Turning blocks should always be mounted to the mast itself or to one of the stainless plates that Steve Seal makes. Similarly, turning blocks should not be wood screwed to the deck over the top of the interior beam. Water leaks through runs down the beam going outboard, and exits at the chainplate. The Seal mast plate solution allows for more rotation of the blocks, and thus more options on where the turning blocks or deck organizer would go. These parts can be through bolted when forward of the internal mast beam. The photos of the pedestal are complements of Scott Sauvageot of our Annapolis Fleet, and his prominently displayed father, Bob. I moved the wiring out of the mast near the base, so it goes into the deck forward of the mast. I don't like deck holes I can't get to. Making beams is straight forward (if one has about 27 clamps, a couple hundred pounds of concentrated weight like lead, and lots of Saran wrap. I made two of them last month. Two methods are shown in the photos. 200 pounds is sufficient. I determined this by standing on it. There should be more words with all this, but my fingers are getting sore, and as they always say, a word is worth one millipicture. Cheers Charlie Annapolis From: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com [mailto:Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com] On Behalf Of Chris Martin Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2009 5:06 PM To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Subject: [Cal_Boats] Need Cal25 Mast Step Hello I am looking for a replacement mast step for my Cal25. Here is a pic of what I have: http://muvvachicken .com/images/ cal25/beam_ deck5_8_09/ DSCN0786s. jpg . The bottom is pretty corroded and I'm not sure I trust it any longer. Is there a source for these are do I have to find a used one? Any leads are appreciated! Also, the existing step was mounted to the deck with screws and the antenna and wiring passed through the center. This was a major source of water entry and the cause for my failed beam. Are screws the way to install this? Id like to use bolts and screws, but considering the construction I'm not sure it's possible (mast beam is in the way). Thanks Chris ------------ --------- --------- ------ Yahoo! Groups Links

Not sure this is an acceptable method, but I actually applied several coats of epoxy to the bottom of the aluminum mast step and let it cure before I coated the bottom in a healthy coat of Boatlife Life Caulk. Between the boatlife and the epoxy, the stainless and aluminum don't really touch. Oh, btw, in the photos Charlie sent, I had the mast wire coming up through the new beam. After consulting with charlie, I cut and removed the wire, and backfilled the hole with West System before I skinned the new raised section with West System fairing compound. My wires now go through the deck between the foreward hatch and the mast. This makes them much easier to caulk. One last thing: Steel Organizers: I recommend you get one that has the vang attachment on the back as well. This takes the stress of a vang fitting off the back of the mast. Mine has 4 holes down each side, and one in the back for the vang. Cheers, Scott S. Cal 25 #1651 Indefatigable To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: no… [at] yahoo.com Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 21:05:54 -0700 Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Need Cal25 Mast Step (CAL 25 Chris) Thanks Charlie, big help. Here is a bad photo of my mast step: http://muvvachicken.com/images/cal25/beam_deck5_8_09/DSCN0787.jpg it should resize to your browser, if not I can send a smaller version. My mast pedestal, thanks for the correct terminology, was very wet. I attacked it from the bottom though, there was some bad glass in the area and it came out pretty easily. Right now my concern is how to deal with the deck under the step. The gelcoat/fiberglass deflected from the corroded step and it's in pretty poor shape. I think I'll fair it from the bottom first and see how it looks. If it's too think I'll cut it out, but I'd much rather just fill it in from the top, we'll see. Can you tell me the proper was to attach the new mast step? I fear if I use screws again the same problems will crop up again in the future. However, I dont really see how to use nuts and bolts, unless I drill and tap expoxy plugs. Last thing, for now. Assuming I use one of the stainless organizers under the step, what's the best way to reduce the risk of corrosion between the dissimilar metals? I was thinking about using some sort of rubber, sort of as a gasket. What do you think? Thanks again, I'm getting there Chris btw. This is what the bottom of the pedestal looked like after removing the rotten deck plywood. :( http://muvvachicken.com/images/cal25/beam_deck5_8_09/DSCN0759s.jpg From: "Husar, Charlie [USA]" <hu… [at] bah.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, May 25, 2009 10:54:19 AM Subject: [Cal_Boats] Need Cal25 Mast Step (CAL 25 Chris) [10 Attachments] By the way, All, if this file is too fat, and you don't want the pictures sent, please let me know, and I'll do it on a one-on-one basis. I thought the pictures here would be generally informative. Chris, a number of items related to your note. It is always good to put a small limber hole (looks like a little mouse hole) at the base of your mast to let water out. I've seen boats where someone actually caulked around the base of the mast and would trap 6 to 8 inches of water inside. Rotted the bottom 6 inches of the mast. I would need to see the mast step part, but we may have one (there were two shapes of masts over the production of the 25). If I can't find one, it is easy to make a piece for not much $$. All it does is keep the bottom of the mast in the same place. Next item: The external mast pedestal is just as important as the inside beam. It has a wood insert inside. If that is soaked, just replacing the beam does little good. It will sag again. The pedestal helps transfer the load out to the two internal wood supports at the inside of the main bulkheads. Soaking this part would come from either a bad seal On the wiring through the step, or from bolting down turning blocks to the mast pedestal using wood screws (which always work loose after a while considering the stresses). Turning blocks should always be mounted to the mast itself or to one of the stainless plates that Steve Seal makes. Similarly, turning blocks should not be wood screwed to the deck over the top of the interior beam. Water leaks through runs down the beam going outboard, and exits at the chainplate. The Seal mast plate solution allows for more rotation of the blocks, and thus more options on where the turning blocks or deck organizer would go. These parts can be through bolted when forward of the internal mast beam. The photos of the pedestal are complements of Scott Sauvageot of our Annapolis Fleet, and his prominently displayed father, Bob. I moved the wiring out of the mast near the base, so it goes into the deck forward of the mast. I don't like deck holes I can't get to. Making beams is straight forward (if one has about 27 clamps, a couple hundred pounds of concentrated weight like lead, and lots of Saran wrap. I made two of them last month. Two methods are shown in the photos. 200 pounds is sufficient. I determined this by standing on it. There should be more words with all this, but my fingers are getting sore, and as they always say, a word is worth one millipicture. Cheers Charlie Annapolis From: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com [mailto:Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com] On Behalf Of Chris Martin Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2009 5:06 PM To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Subject: [Cal_Boats] Need Cal25 Mast Step Hello I am looking for a replacement mast step for my Cal25. Here is a pic of what I have: http://muvvachicken .com/images/ cal25/beam_ deck5_8_09/ DSCN0786s. jpg . The bottom is pretty corroded and I'm not sure I trust it any longer. Is there a source for these are do I have to find a used one? Any leads are appreciated! Also, the existing step was mounted to the deck with screws and the antenna and wiring passed through the center. This was a major source of water entry and the cause for my failed beam. Are screws the way to install this? Id like to use bolts and screws, but considering the construction I'm not sure it's possible (mast beam is in the way). Thanks Chris ------------ --------- --------- ------ Yahoo! Groups Links Hotmail® has a new way to see what's up with your friends. http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/WhatsNew?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial_WhatsNew1_052009

Good point on the extra aft hole in the plate, Scott. Yes, mine are also like that. I think the one in the photo was made in a local machine shop. Steve Seals parts have the aft hole, if I recall properly. Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Scott Sauvageot Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 9:25 AM To: ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] Need Cal25 Mast Step (CAL 25 Chris) Not sure this is an acceptable method, but I actually applied several coats of epoxy to the bottom of the aluminum mast step and let it cure before I coated the bottom in a healthy coat of Boatlife Life Caulk. Between the boatlife and the epoxy, the stainless and aluminum don't really touch. Oh, btw, in the photos Charlie sent, I had the mast wire coming up through the new beam. After consulting with charlie, I cut and removed the wire, and backfilled the hole with West System before I skinned the new raised section with West System fairing compound. My wires now go through the deck between the foreward hatch and the mast. This makes them much easier to caulk. One last thing: Steel Organizers: I recommend you get one that has the vang attachment on the back as well. This takes the stress of a vang fitting off the back of the mast. Mine has 4 holes down each side, and one in the back for the vang. Cheers, Scott S. Cal 25 #1651 Indefatigable To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: no… [at] yahoo.com Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 21:05:54 -0700 Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Need Cal25 Mast Step (CAL 25 Chris) Thanks Charlie, big help. Here is a bad photo of my mast step: http://muvvachicken.com/images/cal25/beam_deck5_8_09/DSCN0787.jpg <http://muvvachicken.com/images/cal25/beam_deck5_8_09/DSCN0787.jpg> it should resize to your browser, if not I can send a smaller version. My mast pedestal, thanks for the correct terminology, was very wet. I attacked it from the bottom though, there was some bad glass in the area and it came out pretty easily. Right now my concern is how to deal with the deck under the step. The gelcoat/fiberglass deflected from the corroded step and it's in pretty poor shape. I think I'll fair it from the bottom first and see how it looks. If it's too think I'll cut it out, but I'd much rather just fill it in from the top, we'll see. Can you tell me the proper was to attach the new mast step? I fear if I use screws again the same problems will crop up again in the future. However, I dont really see how to use nuts and bolts, unless I drill and tap expoxy plugs. Last thing, for now. Assuming I use one of the stainless organizers under the step, what's the best way to reduce the risk of corrosion between the dissimilar metals? I was thinking about using some sort of rubber, sort of as a gasket. What do you think? Thanks again, I'm getting there Chris btw. This is what the bottom of the pedestal looked like after removing the rotten deck plywood. :( http://muvvachicken.com/images/cal25/beam_deck5_8_09/DSCN0759s.jpg <http://muvvachicken.com/images/cal25/beam_deck5_8_09/DSCN0759s.jpg> From: "Husar, Charlie [USA]" <hu… [at] bah.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, May 25, 2009 10:54:19 AM Subject: [Cal_Boats] Need Cal25 Mast Step (CAL 25 Chris) [10 Attachments] By the way, All, if this file is too fat, and you don't want the pictures sent, please let me know, and I'll do it on a one-on-one basis. I thought the pictures here would be generally informative. Chris, a number of items related to your note. It is always good to put a small limber hole (looks like a little mouse hole) at the base of your mast to let water out. I've seen boats where someone actually caulked around the base of the mast and would trap 6 to 8 inches of water inside. Rotted the bottom 6 inches of the mast. I would need to see the mast step part, but we may have one (there were two shapes of masts over the production of the 25). If I can't find one, it is easy to make a piece for not much $$. All it does is keep the bottom of the mast in the same place. Next item: The external mast pedestal is just as important as the inside beam. It has a wood insert inside. If that is soaked, just replacing the beam does little good. It will sag again. The pedestal helps transfer the load out to the two internal wood supports at the inside of the main bulkheads. Soaking this part would come from either a bad seal On the wiring through the step, or from bolting down turning blocks to the mast pedestal using wood screws (which always work loose after a while considering the stresses). Turning blocks should always be mounted to the mast itself or to one of the stainless plates that Steve Seal makes. Similarly, turning blocks should not be wood screwed to the deck over the top of the interior beam. Water leaks through runs down the beam going outboard, and exits at the chainplate. The Seal mast plate solution allows for more rotation of the blocks, and thus more options on where the turning blocks or deck organizer would go. These parts can be through bolted when forward of the internal mast beam. The photos of the pedestal are complements of Scott Sauvageot of our Annapolis Fleet, and his prominently displayed father, Bob. I moved the wiring out of the mast near the base, so it goes into the deck forward of the mast. I don't like deck holes I can't get to. Making beams is straight forward (if one has about 27 clamps, a couple hundred pounds of concentrated weight like lead, and lots of Saran wrap. I made two of them last month. Two methods are shown in the photos. 200 pounds is sufficient. I determined this by standing on it. There should be more words with all this, but my fingers are getting sore, and as they always say, a word is worth one millipicture. Cheers Charlie Annapolis From: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com <mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> [mailto:Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com <mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Chris Martin Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2009 5:06 PM To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com <mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Subject: [Cal_Boats] Need Cal25 Mast Step Hello I am looking for a replacement mast step for my Cal25. Here is a pic of what I have: http://muvvachicken .com/images/ cal25/beam_ deck5_8_09/ DSCN0786s. jpg <http://muvvachicken.com/images/cal25/beam_deck5_8_09/DSCN0786s.jpg> . The bottom is pretty corroded and I'm not sure I trust it any longer. Is there a source for these are do I have to find a used one? Any leads are appreciated! Also, the existing step was mounted to the deck with screws and the antenna and wiring passed through the center. This was a major source of water entry and the cause for my failed beam. Are screws the way to install this? Id like to use bolts and screws, but considering the construction I'm not sure it's possible (mast beam is in the way). Thanks Chris ------------ --------- --------- ------ Yahoo! Groups Links Hotmail(r) has a new way to see what's up with your friends. Check it out. <http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/WhatsNew?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_T utorial_WhatsNew1_052009>