Re: [Cal_Boats] Replacing Interior Vinyl on Cabin Walls

Wayne - Boy, you're just full of good news ;-) I can't wait to get started now! Would you happen to remember the products you tried? Were they making "Goof Off" or "Oops" when you were tackling this? I assume you tried Acetone? Thanks Paul In a message dated 4/20/2009 3:22:05 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, wa… [at] yahoo.com writes: The glue is a big problem. I stripped off all the vinyl in my boat because it was coming off anyway and the foam backing was disintegrating to brown powder. The glue residue comes in two forms: dry and gummy. I took the dry glue off by using a wire wheel in an electric sander. This process makes a huge mess of the interior of the boat and contributes to much domestic disharmony. But, it works. The gummy glue just clogged the wire wheel and rendered it useless. I tried everything to remove the glue but not a single commercial solvent or glue remover had the least effect. The solution: Interlux paint remover that is safe for fiberglass. It ain't perfect but it kinda works. The gummy glue merely scoffs at all other chemicals. I really can't help with the final cosmetics as I haven't figured that out myself yet. Whatever I come up with I feel confident will not include vinyl or glue. Regards, Wayne From: "pwestla@aol. "pwestla<pw… [at] aol.pwe> To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou C Cc: CSOA@yahoogroups. CS Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 2:58:50 PM Subject: [Cal_Boats] Replacing Interior Vinyl on Cabin Walls Does anyone know of a good way to replace the vinyl used to cover the raw fiberglass on the walls of interior of the cabin? I don't want to go back with more vinyl and to just paint it will leave it with the texture of the fiberglass. I suppose I could fair it like a keel but I was hoping for a simpler solution that wouldn't involve sanding. Even if I replaced the vinyl it still looks like there would be a fair amount of sanding to be done to get all the dried glue off. Anyone with some silver bullets out there for removing the old glue and replacing with something new. . . besides writing a big check to someone else to do it? This is next winter's chore. I figure it'll take that long to find a good solution or save the money ;-) Thanks - Paul Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the web. _Get the Radio Toolbar_ (http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000003) ! **************Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the web. Get the Radio Toolbar! (http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000003)

Hi, Paul. I have also tried the Goof Off on this stuff, but there is a still a gummy mess that needs to be cleaned out anyway. My experience has been with many hours slaving over a hot paint scraper. As pointed out below, the stuff gums up all automated and manual abrasives. If I were going to pick my two most aggravating design decisions in CALs, it would be gluing carpet or vinyl to the walls, and using that fiberglas impregnated paint on the ceilings. Cheers Anyway Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of pw… [at] aol.com Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 3:31 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Replacing Interior Vinyl on Cabin Walls Wayne - Boy, you're just full of good news ;-) I can't wait to get started now! Would you happen to remember the products you tried? Were they making "Goof Off" or "Oops" when you were tackling this? I assume you tried Acetone? Thanks Paul In a message dated 4/20/2009 3:22:05 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, wa… [at] yahoo.com writes: The glue is a big problem. I stripped off all the vinyl in my boat because it was coming off anyway and the foam backing was disintegrating to brown powder. The glue residue comes in two forms: dry and gummy. I took the dry glue off by using a wire wheel in an electric sander. This process makes a huge mess of the interior of the boat and contributes to much domestic disharmony. But, it works. The gummy glue just clogged the wire wheel and rendered it useless. I tried everything to remove the glue but not a single commercial solvent or glue remover had the least effect. The solution: Interlux paint remover that is safe for fiberglass. It ain't perfect but it kinda works. The gummy glue merely scoffs at all other chemicals. I really can't help with the final cosmetics as I haven't figured that out myself yet. Whatever I come up with I feel confident will not include vinyl or glue. Regards, Wayne From: "pw… [at] aol.com" <pw… [at] aol.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Cc: CS… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 2:58:50 PM Subject: [Cal_Boats] Replacing Interior Vinyl on Cabin Walls Does anyone know of a good way to replace the vinyl used to cover the raw fiberglass on the walls of interior of the cabin? I don't want to go back with more vinyl and to just paint it will leave it with the texture of the fiberglass. I suppose I could fair it like a keel but I was hoping for a simpler solution that wouldn't involve sanding. Even if I replaced the vinyl it still looks like there would be a fair amount of sanding to be done to get all the dried glue off. Anyone with some silver bullets out there for removing the old glue and replacing with something new. . . besides writing a big check to someone else to do it? This is next winter's chore. I figure it'll take that long to find a good solution or save the money ;-) Thanks - Paul Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the web. Get the Radio Toolbar <http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000003 > ! Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the web. Get the Radio Toolbar <http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000003 > !

Acetone was first. I think Acetone just makes the glue more tenacious ;-). Goof Off, Oops, and a bunch of others including a commercial 3M product that was supposed to get anything off of everything. Nothing worked. The only thing that worked was paint stripper. This job is turning out to be a multi-season effort. I work small sections at a time and accept that it will take some time. Regards, Wayne From: "pw… [at] aol.com" <pw… [at] aol.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 3:30:57 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Replacing Interior Vinyl on Cabin Walls Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the web. Get the Radio Toolbar! Wayne - Boy, you're just full of good news ;-) I can't wait to get started now! Would you happen to remember the products you tried? Were they making "Goof Off" or "Oops" when you were tackling this? I assume you tried Acetone? Thanks Paul In a message dated 4/20/2009 3:22:05 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, waynegillikin@ yahoo.com writes: The glue is a big problem. I stripped off all the vinyl in my boat because it was coming off anyway and the foam backing was disintegrating to brown powder. The glue residue comes in two forms: dry and gummy. I took the dry glue off by using a wire wheel in an electric sander. This process makes a huge mess of the interior of the boat and contributes to much domestic disharmony. But, it works. The gummy glue just clogged the wire wheel and rendered it useless. I tried everything to remove the glue but not a single commercial solvent or glue remover had the least effect. The solution: Interlux paint remover that is safe for fiberglass. It ain't perfect but it kinda works. The gummy glue merely scoffs at all other chemicals. I really can't help with the final cosmetics as I haven't figured that out myself yet. Whatever I come up with I feel confident will not include vinyl or glue. Regards, Wayne From: "pwestla@aol. com" <pwestla@aol. com> To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Cc: CSOA@yahoogroups. com Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 2:58:50 PM Subject: [Cal_Boats] Replacing Interior Vinyl on Cabin Walls Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the web. Get the Radio Toolbar! Does anyone know of a good way to replace the vinyl used to cover the raw fiberglass on the walls of interior of the cabin? I don't want to go back with more vinyl and to just paint it will leave it with the texture of the fiberglass. I suppose I could fair it like a keel but I was hoping for a simpler solution that wouldn't involve sanding. Even if I replaced the vinyl it still looks like there would be a fair amount of sanding to be done to get all the dried glue off. Anyone with some silver bullets out there for removing the old glue and replacing with something new. . . besides writing a big check to someone else to do it? This is next winter's chore. I figure it'll take that long to find a good solution or save the money ;-) Thanks - Paul

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Bad News travels fast...... I've done this project, too and my experiences were similar to Wayne's. Wire brushes, various DA sanders, and even a 4" angle-grinder with 24 - 36 - 40, etc. grits just smeared the stuff around. I tried without noticeable success: Thinner Acetone Jasco paint brush cleaner/remover Interlux 206, 333, 333N, etc. etc. MEK Tueolene (laquer thinner) Denatured Alcohol Naptha? I tried with a little success, but way too much work and mess: 3M adhesive remover. It was expensive and worked slowly and required water and detergent cleanup and the surface still wasn't ready to paint without further sanding. So then, in desperation I called a couple of technical REPS at Jasco and later one at 3M. Both had ideas for me to try but nothing really worked until I spread some marine stripper on. NOTE: The stripper works even better on the polyester resin than it does the glue, so it's a real bad idea to use it unless you are just nuts desperate and stand over it and scrape the glue off before the fiberglass starts to melt as well. Not a good or fun scenario. The better option that worked for me after I had tried everything else, and the one that I settled on for the duration was a hot putty knife. A) 3M organic respirator and lots of fresh air through the boat. VERY IMPORTANT. B) Fire extinguisher close at hand. VERY IMPORTANT. C) A plumbers butane torch fastened to a large flat base so it CAN'T TIP OVER. D) A stiff putty knife about two or three inches across. E) A metal plaster-mixing-spreading box screwed to a plywood base so it won't move around on you. F) Leather gloves, jeans and a long sleeve thick shirt. HEAT THE PUTTY KNIFE, not the boat surface. Use the hot knife to slide under and lift off some glue. Scrape the glue into the metal plaster box, reheat the knife and repeat. Once you get enough of the adhesive off of the fiberglass, you can make a few passes with coarse and then finer sandpaper to finish. Good luck. Wilkie On Apr 20, 2009, at 12:30 PM, pw… [at] aol.com wrote: > > > Wayne - > > Boy, you're just full of good news ;-) I can't wait to get started > now! > > Would you happen to remember the products you tried? Were they > making "Goof Off" or "Oops" when you were tackling this? I assume > you tried Acetone? > > Thanks > > Paul > > In a message dated 4/20/2009 3:22:05 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, wa… [at] yahoo.com > writes: > > > The glue is a big problem. I stripped off all the vinyl in my boat > because it was coming off anyway and the foam backing was > disintegrating to brown powder. The glue residue comes in two > forms: dry and gummy. I took the dry glue off by using a wire wheel > in an electric sander. This process makes a huge mess of the > interior of the boat and contributes to much domestic disharmony. > But, it works. The gummy glue just clogged the wire wheel and > rendered it useless. I tried everything to remove the glue but not > a single commercial solvent or glue remover had the least effect. > The solution: Interlux paint remover that is safe for fiberglass. > It ain't perfect but it kinda works. The gummy glue merely scoffs > at all other chemicals. > > I really can't help with the final cosmetics as I haven't figured > that out myself yet. Whatever I come up with I feel confident will > not include vinyl or glue. > > Regards, > Wayne > > From: "pw… [at] aol.com" <pw… [at] aol.com> > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > Cc: CS… [at] yahoogroups.com > Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 2:58:50 PM > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Replacing Interior Vinyl on Cabin Walls > > Does anyone know of a good way to replace the vinyl used to cover > the raw fiberglass on the walls of interior of the cabin? I don't > want to go back with more vinyl and to just paint it will leave it > with the texture of the fiberglass. I suppose I could fair it like > a keel but I was hoping for a simpler solution that wouldn't involve > sanding. Even if I replaced the vinyl it still looks like there > would be a fair amount of sanding to be done to get all the dried > glue off. > > Anyone with some silver bullets out there for removing the old glue > and replacing with something new. . . besides writing a big check to > someone else to do it? > > This is next winter's chore. I figure it'll take that long to find a > good solution or save the money ;-) > > Thanks - > > Paul > > Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the web. > Get the Radio Toolbar! > > > > Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the web. > Get the Radio Toolbar! > >

So maybe the glued carpet mastic remover is better.. ? failing that the hot scraper method and hair on fire. I'm a big fan of 36 grit sandpaper and elbow grease... and more powerful tools! My Fein Multimaster has a glue scraper blade and a carbide spade, which I'm sure would walk through this stuff.. but would take more work if the surface was not mostly smooth. I just did the Cal 40 Chain locker with the Multimaster which was lined with carpet glued down with waterproof (tan) mastic. Stayed away from chemicals. All gone now! From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of DavidOwen Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 2:21 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Replacing Interior Vinyl on Cabin Walls Bad News travels fast...... I've done this project, too and my experiences were similar to Wayne's. Wire brushes, various DA sanders, and even a 4" angle-grinder with 24 - 36 - 40, etc. grits just smeared the stuff around. I tried without noticeable success: Thinner Acetone Jasco paint brush cleaner/remover Interlux 206, 333, 333N, etc. etc. MEK Tueolene (laquer thinner) Denatured Alcohol Naptha? I tried with a little success, but way too much work and mess: 3M adhesive remover. It was expensive and worked slowly and required water and detergent cleanup and the surface still wasn't ready to paint without further sanding. So then, in desperation I called a couple of technical REPS at Jasco and later one at 3M. Both had ideas for me to try but nothing really worked until I spread some marine stripper on. NOTE: The stripper works even better on the polyester resin than it does the glue, so it's a real bad idea to use it unless you are just nuts desperate and stand over it and scrape the glue off before the fiberglass starts to melt as well. Not a good or fun scenario. The better option that worked for me after I had tried everything else, and the one that I settled on for the duration was a hot putty knife. A) 3M organic respirator and lots of fresh air through the boat. VERY IMPORTANT. B) Fire extinguisher close at hand. VERY IMPORTANT. C) A plumbers butane torch fastened to a large flat base so it CAN'T TIP OVER. D) A stiff putty knife about two or three inches across. E) A metal plaster-mixing-spreading box screwed to a plywood base so it won't move around on you. F) Leather gloves, jeans and a long sleeve thick shirt. HEAT THE PUTTY KNIFE, not the boat surface. Use the hot knife to slide under and lift off some glue. Scrape the glue into the metal plaster box, reheat the knife and repeat. Once you get enough of the adhesive off of the fiberglass, you can make a few passes with coarse and then finer sandpaper to finish. Good luck. Wilkie On Apr 20, 2009, at 12:30 PM, pw… [at] aol.com<mailto:pw… [at] aol.com> wrote: Wayne - Boy, you're just full of good news ;-) I can't wait to get started now! Would you happen to remember the products you tried? Were they making "Goof Off" or "Oops" when you were tackling this? I assume you tried Acetone? Thanks Paul In a message dated 4/20/2009 3:22:05 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, wa… [at] yahoo.com writes: The glue is a big problem. I stripped off all the vinyl in my boat because it was coming off anyway and the foam backing was disintegrating to brown powder. The glue residue comes in two forms: dry and gummy. I took the dry glue off by using a wire wheel in an electric sander. This process makes a huge mess of the interior of the boat and contributes to much domestic disharmony. But, it works. The gummy glue just clogged the wire wheel and rendered it useless. I tried everything to remove the glue but not a single commercial solvent or glue remover had the least effect. The solution: Interlux paint remover that is safe for fiberglass. It ain't perfect but it kinda works. The gummy glue merely scoffs at all other chemicals. I really can't help with the final cosmetics as I haven't figured that out myself yet. Whatever I come up with I feel confident will not include vinyl or glue. Regards, Wayne From: "pw… [at] aol.com" <pw… [at] aol.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Cc: CS… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 2:58:50 PM Subject: [Cal_Boats] Replacing Interior Vinyl on Cabin Walls Does anyone know of a good way to replace the vinyl used to cover the raw fiberglass on the walls of interior of the cabin? I don't want to go back with more vinyl and to just paint it will leave it with the texture of the fiberglass. I suppose I could fair it like a keel but I was hoping for a simpler solution that wouldn't involve sanding. Even if I replaced the vinyl it still looks like there would be a fair amount of sanding to be done to get all the dried glue off. Anyone with some silver bullets out there for removing the old glue and replacing with something new. . . besides writing a big check to someone else to do it? This is next winter's chore. I figure it'll take that long to find a good solution or save the money ;-) Thanks - Paul Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the web. Get the Radio Toolbar<http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000003>! Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the web. Get the Radio Toolbar<http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000003>!

Wilkie - Well, if nothing else, you've saved me a boat load of $$$ on chemicals. I'm wondering now if some kind of oil might work? Remember using peanut butter to get gum out of your hair? I'm no chemist but I always heard it was the oil in the peanut butter that released the grip of the gum. Anyone tried Jiff? Thanks for all your help. Paul In a message dated 4/20/2009 5:22:48 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, wi… [at] mariposasailing.com writes: Bad News travels fast...... I've done this project, too and my experiences were similar to Wayne's. Wire brushes, various DA sanders, and even a 4" angle-grinder with 24 - 36 - 40, etc. grits just smeared the stuff around. I tried without noticeable success: Thinner Acetone Jasco paint brush cleaner/remover Interlux 206, 333, 333N, etc. etc. MEK Tueolene (laquer thinner) Denatured Alcohol Naptha? I tried with a little success, but way too much work and mess: 3M adhesive remover. It was expensive and worked slowly and required water and detergent cleanup and the surface still wasn't ready to paint without further sanding. So then, in desperation I called a couple of technical REPS at Jasco and later one at 3M. Both had ideas for me to try but nothing really worked until I spread some marine stripper on. NOTE: The stripper works even better on the polyester resin than it does the glue, so it's a real bad idea to use it unless you are just nuts desperate and stand over it and scrape the glue off before the fiberglass starts to melt as well. Not a good or fun scenario. The better option that worked for me after I had tried everything else, and the one that I settled on for the duration was a hot putty knife. A) 3M organic respirator and lots of fresh air through the boat. VERY IMPORTANT. B) Fire extinguisher close at hand. VERY IMPORTANT. C) A plumbers butane torch fastened to a large flat base so it CAN'T TIP OVER. D) A stiff putty knife about two or three inches across. E) A metal plaster-mixing-A metal plaster-mixing-<WBR>spreading box screwed to a plywood base so F) Leather gloves, jeans and a long sleeve thick shirt. HEAT THE PUTTY KNIFE, not the boat surface. Use the hot knife to slide under and lift off some glue. Scrape the glue into the metal plaster box, reheat the knife and repeat. Once you get enough of the adhesive off of the fiberglass, you can make a few passes with coarse and then finer sandpaper to finish. Good luck. Wilkie On Apr 20, 2009, at 12:30 PM, _p… [at] aol.pwe_ (mailto:pw… [at] aol.com) wrote: Wayne - Boy, you're just full of good news ;-) I can't wait to get started now! Would you happen to remember the products you tried? Were they making "Goof Off" or "Oops" when you were tackling this? I assume you tried Acetone? Thanks Paul In a message dated 4/20/2009 3:22:05 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, waynegillikin@In a message date The glue is a big problem. I stripped off all the vinyl in my boat because it was coming off anyway and the foam backing was disintegrating to brown powder. The glue residue comes in two forms: dry and gummy. I took the dry glue off by using a wire wheel in an electric sander. This process makes a huge mess of the interior of the boat and contributes to much domestic disharmony. But, it works. The gummy glue just clogged the wire wheel and rendered it useless. I tried everything to remove the glue but not a single commercial solvent or glue remover had the least effect. The solution: Interlux paint remover that is safe for fiberglass. It ain't perfect but it kinda works. The gummy glue merely scoffs at all other chemicals. I really can't help with the final cosmetics as I haven't figured that out myself yet. Whatever I come up with I feel confident will not include vinyl or glue. Regards, Wayne From: "pwestla@aol."pwestla@aol.<pw… [at] aol.pwe> To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrouCal_Bo Cc: CS… [at] yahoogroups.CSO Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 2:58:50 PM Subject: [Cal_Boats] Replacing Interior Vinyl on Cabin Walls Does anyone know of a good way to replace the vinyl used to cover the raw fiberglass on the walls of interior of the cabin? I don't want to go back with more vinyl and to just paint it will leave it with the texture of the fiberglass. I suppose I could fair it like a keel but I was hoping for a simpler solution that wouldn't involve sanding. Even if I replaced the vinyl it still looks like there would be a fair amount of sanding to be done to get all the dried glue off. Anyone with some silver bullets out there for removing the old glue and replacing with something new. . . besides writing a big check to someone else to do it? This is next winter's chore. I figure it'll take that long to find a good solution or save the money ;-) Thanks - Paul Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the web. _Get the Radio Toolbar_ (http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000003) ! Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the web. _Get the Radio Toolbar_ (http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000003) ! **************Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the web. Get the Radio Toolbar! (http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000003)

Of those of you who have done this, what did you replace the vinyl with? The vinyl in the aft most inside wall of the aft cabin of my 39 is gone and it looks like Hell. Paint alone will make it look like Hell with a paint job. Any easy solution for that . . . a thick texture paint maybe? Thanks again - Paul In a message dated 4/20/2009 4:28:27 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, ti… [at] ch2m.com writes: I removed all the glued carpet from Freewind many years ago. I recall that most of it chipped off, and the remaining goo was not fun, I find MEK sometimes does a good job. I recall I removed the glue when it was cold outside, most of it chipped off. 3M Adhesive remover or Mast Away Mastic remover (1st choice) might be your key? I wonder if paint remover will work? 3M™ Adhesive Remover, 38080, 1 Gallon (US)/8.9 L, 4 per case (http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?66666UuZjcFSLXTtlxT2L8TcEV76EbHSHVs6EVs6E666666--) _ [click to enlarge]_ (http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?66666UuZjcFSLXTtlxT2L8TcEV76EbHSHVs6EVs6E666666--) Ready-to-use blend of petroleum solvents designed to remove adhesive and tar deposits from exterior vehicle surfaces. To minimize the possibility of staining, do not apply in direct sunlight or onto a hot surface. Full Description » <VALUE> Directions for Use: 1. Soak cloth with 3M™ Adhesive Remover and apply onto the surface. 2. Rub thoroughly with a soft cloth and remove the excess material with a clean, dry, soft cloth. Repeat as necessary. 3. For stubborn deposits, apply material, allow to soak for one minute and scrub. Tips:- For tar stains on fabric apply 3M™ Adhesive Remover, scrub, and clean using 3M™ All Purpose OR (http://masticremover.com/) Call Us Toll Free 1-800-844-1301 (http://www.masticremover.com/) _Home_ (http://www.masticremover.com/) (http://masticremover.com/index.php?page=shop.cart&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=64) _My Cart_ (http://masticremover.com/index.php?page=shop.cart&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=64) (http://masticremover.com/about.php) _About_ (http://masticremover.com/about.php) (http://masticremover.com/msds-info.php) _MSDS Info_ (http://masticremover.com/msds-info.php) (http://masticremover.com/contact.php) _Contact Us_ (http://masticremover.com/contact.php) * (http://masticremover.com/#) * _Product Details_ (http://masticremover.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage-ask.tpl&product_id=39&category_id=13&option=com _virtuemart&Itemid=64) * _MSDS Info_ (http://masticremover.com/msds-ma22.php) * _Request Sample_ (http://masticremover.com/sample-request.php) * (http://masticremover.com/#) * _Product Details_ (http://masticremover.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage-ask.tpl&product_id=40&category_id=13&option=com _virtuemart&Itemid=64) * _MSDS Info_ (http://masticremover.com/msds-ma33.php) * _Request Sample_ (http://masticremover.com/sample-request.php) * (http://masticremover.com/#) * _Product Details_ (http://masticrem over.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage-ask.tpl&product_id=56&category_id=13&option=com _virtuemart&Itemid=64) * _MSDS Info_ (http://masticremover.com/msds-ma44.php) * _Request Sample_ (http://masticremover.com/sample-request.php) * (http://masticremover.com/#) * _Product Details_ (http://masticremover.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage-ask.tpl&product_id=42&category_id=13&option=com _virtuemart&Itemid=64) * _MSDS Info_ (http://masticremover.com/msds-ma55.php) * _Request Sample_ (http://masticremover.com/sample-request.php) Our Mastic Removers MA-22 No Odor For use in occupied buildings where no odor can be tolerated.

I am fond of Hell with a paint job! Everything depends on what you like, indoor/outdoor carpet, wood slats, West system 410 sanding filler and epoxy, paint, shower stall fiberglass lining (like I did on the cabin ceiling).. etc. On the 40 I may be installing indoor our door carpet. I first coated the cleaned glass with a painted and squeegeed layer of epoxy, so the hull is smooth and clean. Cal 9.2 ceiling: is Shower stall liner on wood bats, the cabin sides are filled with 410 filler, and the balance is Petit Easypoxy high shine white, I like it~! [cid:895515621@20042009-2656][cid:895515621@20042009-265D][cid:895515621@20042009-2664][cid:895515621@20042009-266B][cid:895515621@20042009-2672][cid:895515621@20042009-2679][cid:895515621@20042009-2680] From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of pw… [at] aol.com Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 2:52 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Replacing Interior Vinyl on Cabin Walls Of those of you who have done this, what did you replace the vinyl with? The vinyl in the aft most inside wall of the aft cabin of my 39 is gone and it looks like Hell. Paint alone will make it look like Hell with a paint job. Any easy solution for that . . . a thick texture paint maybe? Thanks again - Paul In a message dated 4/20/2009 4:28:27 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, ti… [at] ch2m.com writes: I removed all the glued carpet from Freewind many years ago. 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Really looks good, Tim. I like the shower liner AND the white paint. Mariposa is "off-white" Interlux Brightsides with a splash of flattener to make it less insanely picky on the final faring of the overhead. I had long thought it would look great, but it wasn't until I saw Fin Bevin's wonderful "Radiant" decked out in faired white ceiling and overhead that I had the inspiration to tackle it. Lots of work. Wilkie On Apr 20, 2009, at 3:07 PM, <ti… [at] ch2m.com> <ti… [at] ch2m.com > wrote: > > > > I am fond of Hell with a paint job! > > Everything depends on what you like, indoor/outdoor carpet, wood > slats, West system 410 sanding filler and epoxy, paint, shower stall > fiberglass lining (like I did on the cabin ceiling).. etc. > > On the 40 I may be installing indoor our door carpet. I first coated > the cleaned glass with a painted and squeegeed layer of epoxy, so > the hull is smooth and clean. > > Cal 9.2 ceiling: is Shower stall liner on wood bats, > > the cabin sides are filled with 410 filler, and > > the balance is Petit Easypoxy high shine white, I like it~! > > < > att1ca18 > .jpg > > > < > att1d516 > .jpg > > > <att1f2d0.jpg><att207a1.jpg><att2133b.jpg><att21ddb.jpg><att227de.jpg> > > From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] > On Behalf Of pw… [at] aol.com > Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 2:52 PM > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Replacing Interior Vinyl on Cabin Walls > > Of those of you who have done this, what did you replace the vinyl > with? The vinyl in the aft most inside wall of the aft cabin of my > 39 is gone and it looks like Hell. Paint alone will make it look > like Hell with a paint job. Any easy solution for that . . . a > thick texture paint maybe? > > Thanks again - > > Paul > > In a message dated 4/20/2009 4:28:27 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, ti… [at] ch2m.com > writes: > > > > > > I removed all the glued carpet from Freewind many years ago. I > recall that most of it chipped off, and the remaining goo was not > fun, I find MEK sometimes does a good job. > > I recall I removed the glue when it was cold outside, most of it > chipped off. > > 3M Adhesive remover or Mast Away Mastic remover (1st choice) might > be your key? > > I wonder if paint remover will work? > > > <att56c16.jpg><att57c73.jpg> > 3M™ Adhesive Remover, 38080, 1 Gallon (US)/8.9 L, 4 per case > > > > [click to enlarge] > Ready-to-use blend of petroleum solvents designed to remove adhesive > and tar deposits from exterior vehicle surfaces. To minimize the > possibility of staining, do not apply in direct sunlight or onto a > hot surface. > > Full Description » > > Directions for Use: 1. Soak cloth with 3M™ Adhesive Remover and > apply onto the surface. 2. Rub thoroughly with a soft cloth and > remove the excess material with a clean, dry, soft cloth. Repeat as > necessary. 3. For stubborn deposits, apply material, allow to soak > for one minute and scrub. Tips:- For tar stains on fabric apply 3M™ > Adhesive Remover, scrub, and clean using 3M™ All Purpose > > OR > > <img_04.gif> > Call Us Toll Free > 1-800-844-1301 > <home-icon.gif> Home <img_11.gif> My Cart <img_13.gif> About > <img_15.gif> MSDS Info <img_17.gif> Contact Us > <img_08.gif> > <nav_22.gif> > Product Details > MSDS Info > Request Sample > <nav_23.gif> > Product Details > MSDS Info > Request Sample > <nav_24.gif> > Product Details > MSDS Info > Request Sample > <nav_25.gif> > Product Details > MSDS Info > Request Sample > Our Mastic Removers <prod_29.gif> > <prod_37.gif> > MA-22 > No Odor > For use in occupied > buildings where no odor > can be tolerated. > From $35/pail or $329/drum! > <prod_45.gif> > <prod_37.gif> > MA-33 > Low Odor > For use in occupied > buildings where no odor > can be tolerated. > From $35/pail or $329/drum! > <prod_45.gif> > <prod_37.gif> > MA-44 > Low Odor > Plus > For use in occupied > buildings where no odor > can be tolerated. > From $37/pail or $349/drum! > <prod_45.gif> > <prod_37.gif> > MA-55 > Xtreme! > For use in occupied > buildings where no odor > can be tolerated. > From $37/pail or $349/drum! > <prod_45.gif> > Special Offer <prod_29.gif> > <input_37.gif> > Please enter your details in > the form below > > > > > > > Request a sample and/or more information. > Sample Pack Info Pack > > <input_55.gif> > Your information is safe. > <input_57.gif> > > From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] > On Behalf Of Husar, Charlie [USA] > Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 1:02 PM > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] Replacing Interior Vinyl on Cabin Walls > > > Hi, Paul. I have also tried the Goof Off on this stuff, but there > is a still a gummy mess that needs to be cleaned out anyway. My > experience has been with many hours slaving over a hot paint > scraper. As pointed out below, the stuff gums up all automated and > manual abrasives. If I were going to pick my two most aggravating > design decisions in CALs, it would be gluing carpet or vinyl to the > walls, and using that fiberglas impregnated paint on the ceilings. > > Cheers Anyway > Charlie > > From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] > On Behalf Of pw… [at] aol.com > Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 3:31 PM > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Replacing Interior Vinyl on Cabin Walls > > Wayne - > > Boy, you're just full of good news ;-) I can't wait to get started > now! > > Would you happen to remember the products you tried? Were they > making "Goof Off" or "Oops" when you were tackling this? I assume > you tried Acetone? > > Thanks > > Paul > > In a message dated 4/20/2009 3:22:05 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, wa… [at] yahoo.com > writes: > > > > The glue is a big problem. I stripped off all the vinyl in my boat > because it was coming off anyway and the foam backing was > disintegrating to brown powder. The glue residue comes in two > forms: dry and gummy. I took the dry glue off by using a wire wheel > in an electric sander. This process makes a huge mess of the > interior of the boat and contributes to much domestic disharmony. > But, it works. The gummy glue just clogged the wire wheel and > rendered it useless. I tried everything to remove the glue but not > a single commercial solvent or glue remover had the least effect. > The solution: Interlux paint remover that is safe for fiberglass. > It ain't perfect but it kinda works. The gummy glue merely scoffs > at all other chemicals. > > I really can't help with the final cosmetics as I haven't figured > that out myself yet. Whatever I come up with I feel confident will > not include vinyl or glue. > > Regards, > Wayne > > From: "pw… [at] aol.com" <pw… [at] aol.com> > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > Cc: CS… [at] yahoogroups.com > Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 2:58:50 PM > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Replacing Interior Vinyl on Cabin Walls > > Does anyone know of a good way to replace the vinyl used to cover > the raw fiberglass on the walls of interior of the cabin? I don't > want to go back with more vinyl and to just paint it will leave it > with the texture of the fiberglass. I suppose I could fair it like > a keel but I was hoping for a simpler solution that wouldn't involve > sanding. Even if I replaced the vinyl it still looks like there > would be a fair amount of sanding to be done to get all the dried > glue off. > > Anyone with some silver bullets out there for removing the old glue > and replacing with something new. . . besides writing a big check to > someone else to do it? > > This is next winter's chore. I figure it'll take that long to find a > good solution or save the money ;-) > > Thanks - > > Paul > > Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the web. > Get the Radio Toolbar! > > > > > Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the web. > Get the Radio Toolbar! > > > > Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the web. > Get the Radio Toolbar! > >

Aye, and a Fein tool it is. As previously mentioned by someone, Fein prices have come down since patent has expired. Rockwell makes a similar tool that is cheaper. No word on longevity. I have one of each. Two hands, you know. Given the choice of going out to dinner or spending the money on a neat tool, I go for the latter. Tomorrow you are hungry again, but the tool just keeps chugging along. Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ti… [at] ch2m.com Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 5:45 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] Replacing Interior Vinyl on Cabin Walls So maybe the glued carpet mastic remover is better.. ? failing that the hot scraper method and hair on fire. I'm a big fan of 36 grit sandpaper and elbow grease... and more powerful tools! My Fein Multimaster has a glue scraper blade and a carbide spade, which I'm sure would walk through this stuff.. but would take more work if the surface was not mostly smooth. I just did the Cal 40 Chain locker with the Multimaster which was lined with carpet glued down with waterproof (tan) mastic. Stayed away from chemicals. All gone now! From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of DavidOwen Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 2:21 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Replacing Interior Vinyl on Cabin Walls Bad News travels fast...... I've done this project, too and my experiences were similar to Wayne's. Wire brushes, various DA sanders, and even a 4" angle-grinder with 24 - 36 - 40, etc. grits just smeared the stuff around. I tried without noticeable success: Thinner Acetone Jasco paint brush cleaner/remover Interlux 206, 333, 333N, etc. etc. MEK Tueolene (laquer thinner) Denatured Alcohol Naptha? I tried with a little success, but way too much work and mess: 3M adhesive remover. It was expensive and worked slowly and required water and detergent cleanup and the surface still wasn't ready to paint without further sanding. So then, in desperation I called a couple of technical REPS at Jasco and later one at 3M. Both had ideas for me to try but nothing really worked until I spread some marine stripper on. NOTE: The stripper works even better on the polyester resin than it does the glue, so it's a real bad idea to use it unless you are just nuts desperate and stand over it and scrape the glue off before the fiberglass starts to melt as well. Not a good or fun scenario. The better option that worked for me after I had tried everything else, and the one that I settled on for the duration was a hot putty knife. A) 3M organic respirator and lots of fresh air through the boat. VERY IMPORTANT. B) Fire extinguisher close at hand. VERY IMPORTANT. C) A plumbers butane torch fastened to a large flat base so it CAN'T TIP OVER. D) A stiff putty knife about two or three inches across. E) A metal plaster-mixing-spreading box screwed to a plywood base so it won't move around on you. F) Leather gloves, jeans and a long sleeve thick shirt. HEAT THE PUTTY KNIFE, not the boat surface. Use the hot knife to slide under and lift off some glue. Scrape the glue into the metal plaster box, reheat the knife and repeat. Once you get enough of the adhesive off of the fiberglass, you can make a few passes with coarse and then finer sandpaper to finish. Good luck. Wilkie On Apr 20, 2009, at 12:30 PM, pw… [at] aol.com <mailto:pw… [at] aol.com> wrote: Wayne - Boy, you're just full of good news ;-) I can't wait to get started now! Would you happen to remember the products you tried? Were they making "Goof Off" or "Oops" when you were tackling this? I assume you tried Acetone? Thanks Paul In a message dated 4/20/2009 3:22:05 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, wa… [at] yahoo.com writes: The glue is a big problem. I stripped off all the vinyl in my boat because it was coming off anyway and the foam backing was disintegrating to brown powder. The glue residue comes in two forms: dry and gummy. I took the dry glue off by using a wire wheel in an electric sander. This process makes a huge mess of the interior of the boat and contributes to much domestic disharmony. But, it works. The gummy glue just clogged the wire wheel and rendered it useless. I tried everything to remove the glue but not a single commercial solvent or glue remover had the least effect. The solution: Interlux paint remover that is safe for fiberglass. It ain't perfect but it kinda works. The gummy glue merely scoffs at all other chemicals. I really can't help with the final cosmetics as I haven't figured that out myself yet. Whatever I come up with I feel confident will not include vinyl or glue. Regards, Wayne From: "pw… [at] aol.com" <pw… [at] aol.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Cc: CS… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 2:58:50 PM Subject: [Cal_Boats] Replacing Interior Vinyl on Cabin Walls Does anyone know of a good way to replace the vinyl used to cover the raw fiberglass on the walls of interior of the cabin? I don't want to go back with more vinyl and to just paint it will leave it with the texture of the fiberglass. I suppose I could fair it like a keel but I was hoping for a simpler solution that wouldn't involve sanding. Even if I replaced the vinyl it still looks like there would be a fair amount of sanding to be done to get all the dried glue off. Anyone with some silver bullets out there for removing the old glue and replacing with something new. . . besides writing a big check to someone else to do it? This is next winter's chore. I figure it'll take that long to find a good solution or save the money ;-) Thanks - Paul Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the web. Get the Radio Toolbar <http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000003 > ! Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the web. Get the Radio Toolbar <http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000003 > !

Nice overhead! What does the ceiling look like? From: "ti… [at] ch2m.com" <ti… [at] ch2m.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 3:07:07 PM Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] Replacing Interior Vinyl on Cabin Walls I am fond of Hell with a paint job! Everything depends on what you like, indoor/outdoor carpet, wood slats, West system 410 sanding filler and epoxy, paint, shower stall fiberglass lining (like I did on the cabin ceiling).. etc. On the 40 I may be installing indoor our door carpet. I first coated the cleaned glass with a painted and squeegeed layer of epoxy, so the hull is smooth and clean. Cal 9.2 ceiling: is Shower stall liner on wood bats, the cabin sides are filled with 410 filler, and the balance is Petit Easypoxy high shine white, I like it~!

Just to start something... Harbor freight has Fein master knock offs on sale this week for $40. Haven't tried it. Looks chintzy. But for $40 bucks if it gets you through one job it paid for itself. I just spent $175 on a Rockwell Sonic crafter (As seen on TV!). It works ok. Proprietary expensive blades. I prefer the Fein though; it is easier to change the blades and has variable speed. The proprietary blades that they rape you for is a downer. I just got done cutting out 3 layers of rotten plywood and fiberglass and rebuilding them on a stinkpot. Couldn't have done it without an oscillating saw. Husar, Charlie [USA] wrote: > > > Aye, and a Fein tool it is. > > As previously mentioned by someone, Fein prices have come down since > patent has expired. Rockwell makes a similar tool that is cheaper. > No word on longevity. I have one of each. Two hands, you know. > > Given the choice of going out to dinner or spending the money on a > neat tool, I go for the latter. Tomorrow you are hungry again, but > the tool just keeps chugging along. > > Cheers > Charlie > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] > *On Behalf Of *ti… [at] ch2m.com > *Sent:* Monday, April 20, 2009 5:45 PM > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > *Subject:* RE: [Cal_Boats] Replacing Interior Vinyl on Cabin Walls > > So maybe the glued carpet mastic remover is better.. ? > > failing that the hot scraper method and hair on fire. > > I'm a big fan of 36 grit sandpaper and elbow grease... and more > powerful tools! > > My Fein Multimaster has a glue scraper blade and a carbide spade, > which I'm sure would walk through this stuff.. but would take more > work if the surface was not mostly smooth. > > I just did the Cal 40 Chain locker with the Multimaster which was > lined with carpet glued down with waterproof (tan) mastic. > > Stayed away from chemicals. > > All gone now! > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] > *On Behalf Of *DavidOwen > *Sent:* Monday, April 20, 2009 2:21 PM > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] Replacing Interior Vinyl on Cabin Walls > > > Bad News travels fast...... > > I've done this project, too and my experiences were similar to Wayne's. > > Wire brushes, various DA sanders, and even a 4" angle-grinder with 24 > - 36 - 40, etc. grits just smeared the stuff around. > > I tried without noticeable success: > Thinner > Acetone > Jasco paint brush cleaner/remover > Interlux 206, 333, 333N, etc. etc. > MEK > Tueolene (laquer thinner) > Denatured Alcohol > Naptha? > > I tried with a little success, but way too much work and mess: > 3M adhesive remover. It was expensive and worked slowly and required > water and detergent cleanup and the surface still wasn't ready to > paint without further sanding. > > So then, in desperation I called a couple of technical REPS at Jasco > and later one at 3M. Both had ideas for me to try but nothing really > worked until I spread some marine stripper on. NOTE: The stripper > works even better on the polyester resin than it does the glue, so > it's a real bad idea to use it unless you are just nuts desperate and > stand over it and scrape the glue off before the fiberglass starts to > melt as well. Not a good or fun scenario. > > The better option that worked for me after I had tried everything > else, and the one that I settled on for the duration was a hot putty > knife. > > A) 3M organic respirator and lots of fresh air through the boat. VERY > IMPORTANT. > B) Fire extinguisher close at hand. VERY IMPORTANT. > C) A plumbers butane torch fastened to a large flat base so it CAN'T > TIP OVER. > D) A stiff putty knife about two or three inches across. > E) A metal plaster-mixing-spreading box screwed to a plywood base so > it won't move around on you. > F) Leather gloves, jeans and a long sleeve thick shirt. > > HEAT THE PUTTY KNIFE, not the boat surface. Use the hot knife to > slide under and lift off some glue. Scrape the glue into the metal > plaster box, reheat the knife and repeat. Once you get enough of the > adhesive off of the fiberglass, you can make a few passes with coarse > and then finer sandpaper to finish. > > Good luck. > > Wilkie > > > On Apr 20, 2009, at 12:30 PM, pw… [at] aol.com <mailto:pw… [at] aol.com> > wrote: > >> >> >> Wayne - >> >> Boy, you're just full of good news ;-) I can't wait to get started now! >> >> Would you happen to remember the products you tried? Were they >> making "Goof Off" or "Oops" when you were tackling this? I assume >> you tried Acetone? >> >> Thanks >> >> Paul >> >> In a message dated 4/20/2009 3:22:05 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, >> wa… [at] yahoo.com writes: >> >> >> >> The glue is a big problem. I stripped off all the vinyl in my >> boat because it was coming off anyway and the foam backing was >> disintegrating to brown powder. The glue residue comes in two >> forms: dry and gummy. I took the dry glue off by using a wire >> wheel in an electric sander. This process makes a huge mess of >> the interior of the boat and contributes to much domestic >> disharmony. But, it works. The gummy glue just clogged the wire >> wheel and rendered it useless. I tried everything to remove the >> glue but not a single commercial solvent or glue remover had the >> least effect. The solution: Interlux paint remover that is safe >> for fiberglass. It ain't perfect but it kinda works. The gummy >> glue merely scoffs at all other chemicals. >> >> I really can't help with the final cosmetics as I haven't figured >> that out myself yet. Whatever I come up with I feel confident >> will not include vinyl or glue. >> >> Regards, >> Wayne >> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> *From:* "pw… [at] aol.com" <pw… [at] aol.com> >> *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com >> *Cc:* CS… [at] yahoogroups.com >> *Sent:* Monday, April 20, 2009 2:58:50 PM >> *Subject:* [Cal_Boats] Replacing Interior Vinyl on Cabin Walls >> >> Does anyone know of a good way to replace the vinyl used to cover >> the raw fiberglass on the walls of interior of the cabin? I >> don't want to go back with more vinyl and to just paint it will >> leave it with the texture of the fiberglass. I suppose I could >> fair it like a keel but I was hoping for a simpler solution that >> wouldn't involve sanding. Even if I replaced the vinyl it still >> looks like there would be a fair amount of sanding to be done to >> get all the dried glue off. >> >> Anyone with some silver bullets out there for removing the old >> glue and replacing with something new. . . besides writing a big >> check to someone else to do it? >> >> This is next winter's chore. I figure it'll take that long to >> find a good solution or save the money ;-) >> >> Thanks - >> >> Paul >> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the >> web. Get the Radio Toolbar >> <http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000003>! >> >> >> >> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the web. Get >> the Radio Toolbar >> <http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000003>! >> > >

dEmO wrote: "I removed all the glued carpet from Freewind many years ago. I recall that most of it chipped off, and the remaining goo was not fun, I find MEK sometimes does a good job. I recall I removed the glue when it was cold outside, most of it chipped off." Has anyone tried Dry Ice? It should be available at a local grocer, and careful handling used to prevent frost bite. Temporarily freezing the sticky mastic should allow you to chip the frozen piece from the side. We used this method when removing interior undercoat from the floor boards of cars. It works well with less noxious gases from heat removal and chemicals. YMMV John

From: DavidOwen <wi… [at] mariposasailing.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 5:21:21 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Replacing Interior Vinyl on Cabin Walls Bad News travels fast...... I've done this project, too and my experiences were similar to Wayne's. Wire brushes, various DA sanders, and even a 4" angle-grinder with 24 - 36 - 40, etc. grits just smeared the stuff around. I tried without noticeable success: Thinner Acetone Jasco paint brush cleaner/remover Interlux 206, 333, 333N, etc. etc. MEK Tueolene (laquer thinner) Denatured Alcohol Naptha? I tried with a little success, but way too much work and mess: 3M adhesive remover. It was expensive and worked slowly and required water and detergent cleanup and the surface still wasn't ready to paint without further sanding. So then, in desperation I called a couple of technical REPS at Jasco and later one at 3M. Both had ideas for me to try but nothing really worked until I spread some marine stripper on. NOTE: The stripper works even better on the polyester resin than it does the glue, so it's a real bad idea to use it unless you are just nuts desperate and stand over it and scrape the glue off before the fiberglass starts to melt as well. Not a good or fun scenario. The better option that worked for me after I had tried everything else, and the one that I settled on for the duration was a hot putty knife. A) 3M organic respirator and lots of fresh air through the boat. VERY IMPORTANT. B) Fire extinguisher close at hand. VERY IMPORTANT. C) A plumbers butane torch fastened to a large flat base so it CAN'T TIP OVER. D) A stiff putty knife about two or three inches across. E) A metal plaster-mixing- spreading box screwed to a plywood base so it won't move around on you. F) Leather gloves, jeans and a long sleeve thick shirt. HEAT THE PUTTY KNIFE, not the boat surface. Use the hot knife to slide under and lift off some glue. Scrape the glue into the metal plaster box, reheat the knife and repeat. Once you get enough of the adhesive off of the fiberglass, you can make a few passes with coarse and then finer sandpaper to finish. Good luck. Wilkie On Apr 20, 2009, at 12:30 PM, pwestla@aol. com wrote: > > >Wayne - > >Boy, you're just full of good news ;-) I can't wait to get started now! > >Would you happen to remember the products you tried? Were they making "Goof Off" or "Oops" when you were tackling this? I assume you tried Acetone? > >Thanks > >Paul > >In a message dated 4/20/2009 3:22:05 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, waynegillikin@ yahoo.com writes: > >> >> >>The glue is a big problem. I stripped off all the vinyl in my boat because it was coming off anyway and the foam backing was disintegrating to brown powder. The glue residue comes in two forms: dry and gummy. I took the dry glue off by using a wire wheel in an electric sander. This process makes a huge mess of the interior of the boat and contributes to much domestic disharmony. But, it works. The gummy glue just clogged the wire wheel and rendered it useless. I tried everything to remove the glue but not a single commercial solvent or glue remover had the least effect. The solution: Interlux paint remover that is safe for fiberglass. It ain't perfect but it kinda works. The gummy glue merely scoffs at all other chemicals. >> >>I really can't help with the final cosmetics as I haven't figured that out myself yet. Whatever I come up with I feel confident will not include vinyl or glue. >> >>Regards, >>Wayne >> >> >> From: "pwestla@aol. com" <pwestla@aol. com> >>To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com >>Cc: CSOA@yahoogroups. com >>Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 2:58:50 PM >>Subject: [Cal_Boats] Replacing Interior Vinyl on Cabin Walls >> >> >>Does anyone know of a good way to replace the vinyl used to cover the raw fiberglass on the walls of interior of the cabin? I don't want to go back with more vinyl and to just paint it will leave it with the texture of the fiberglass. I suppose I could fair it like a keel but I was hoping for a simpler solution that wouldn't involve sanding. Even if I replaced the vinyl it still looks like there would be a fair amount of sanding to be done to get all the dried glue off. >> >>Anyone with some silver bullets out there for removing the old glue and replacing with something new. . . besides writing a big check to someone else to do it? >> >>This is next winter's chore. I figure it'll take that long to find a good solution or save the money ;-) >> >>Thanks - >> >>Paul >> Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the web. Get the Radio Toolbar! >> > Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the web. Get the Radio Toolbar!

You might want to try a heat gun. We call them hair dryers but they are much hotter. Much safer than using a torch. I use one to remove 50 years of paint over several years of varnish. The varnish forms a sticky goo that clogs any sand paper and sounds much as you describe the vinyl adhesive. I heat the junction between the heat gun and the material from the top with most of the air on the scraper. Good luck, Allen On Fri, Aug 21, 2009 at 6:03 PM, Wayne Gillikin <wa… [at] yahoo.com>wrote: > > > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* DavidOwen <wi… [at] mariposasailing.com> > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > *Sent:* Monday, April 20, 2009 5:21:21 PM > *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] Replacing Interior Vinyl on Cabin Walls > > > Bad News travels fast...... > > I've done this project, too and my experiences were similar to Wayne's. > Wire brushes, various DA sanders, and even a 4" angle-grinder with 24 - 36 > - 40, etc. grits just smeared the stuff around. > > I tried without noticeable success: > Thinner > Acetone > Jasco paint brush cleaner/remover > Interlux 206, 333, 333N, etc. etc. > MEK > Tueolene (laquer thinner) > Denatured Alcohol > Naptha? > > I tried with a little success, but way too much work and mess: > 3M adhesive remover. It was expensive and worked slowly and required water > and detergent cleanup and the surface still wasn't ready to paint without > further sanding. > > So then, in desperation I called a couple of technical REPS at Jasco and > later one at 3M. Both had ideas for me to try but nothing really worked > until I spread some marine stripper on. NOTE: The stripper works even > better on the polyester resin than it does the glue, so it's a real bad idea > to use it unless you are just nuts desperate and stand over it and scrape > the glue off before the fiberglass starts to melt as well. Not a good or > fun scenario. > The better option that worked for me after I had tried everything else, and > the one that I settled on for the duration was a hot putty knife. > > A) 3M organic respirator and lots of fresh air through the boat. VERY > IMPORTANT. > B) Fire extinguisher close at hand. VERY IMPORTANT. > C) A plumbers butane torch fastened to a large flat base so it CAN'T TIP > OVER. > D) A stiff putty knife about two or three inches across. > E) A metal plaster-mixing- spreading box screwed to a plywood base so it > won't move around on you. > F) Leather gloves, jeans and a long sleeve thick shirt. > > HEAT THE PUTTY KNIFE, not the boat surface. Use the hot knife to slide > under and lift off some glue. Scrape the glue into the metal plaster box, > reheat the knife and repeat. Once you get enough of the adhesive off of the > fiberglass, you can make a few passes with coarse and then finer sandpaper > to finish. > > Good luck. > > Wilkie > > > On Apr 20, 2009, at 12:30 PM, pwestla@aol. com <pw… [at] aol.com> wrote: > > > > Wayne - > > Boy, you're just full of good news ;-) I can't wait to get started now! > > Would you happen to remember the products you tried? Were they making > "Goof Off" or "Oops" when you were tackling this? I assume you tried > Acetone? > > Thanks > > Paul > > In a message dated 4/20/2009 3:22:05 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > waynegillikin@ yahoo.com writes: > > > > The glue is a big problem. I stripped off all the vinyl in my boat because > it was coming off anyway and the foam backing was disintegrating to brown > powder. The glue residue comes in two forms: dry and gummy. I took the dry > glue off by using a wire wheel in an electric sander. This process makes a > huge mess of the interior of the boat and contributes to much domestic > disharmony. But, it works. The gummy glue just clogged the wire wheel and > rendered it useless. I tried everything to remove the glue but not a single > commercial solvent or glue remover had the least effect. The solution: > Interlux paint remover that is safe for fiberglass. It ain't perfect but it > kinda works. The gummy glue merely scoffs at all other chemicals. > > I really can't help with the final cosmetics as I haven't figured that out > myself yet. Whatever I come up with I feel confident will not include vinyl > or glue. > > Regards, > Wayne > > ------------------------------ > *From:* "pwestla@aol. com" <pwestla@aol. com> > *To:* Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com > *Cc:* CSOA@yahoogroups. com > *Sent:* Monday, April 20, 2009 2:58:50 PM > *Subject:* [Cal_Boats] Replacing Interior Vinyl on Cabin Walls > > Does anyone know of a good way to replace the vinyl used to cover the raw > fiberglass on the walls of interior of the cabin? I don't want to go back > with more vinyl and to just paint it will leave it with the texture of the > fiberglass. I suppose I could fair it like a keel but I was hoping for a > simpler solution that wouldn't involve sanding. Even if I replaced the > vinyl it still looks like there would be a fair amount of sanding to be done > to get all the dried glue off. > > Anyone with some silver bullets out there for removing the old glue and > replacing with something new. . . besides writing a big check to someone > else to do it? > > This is next winter's chore. I figure it'll take that long to find a good > solution or save the money ;-) > > Thanks - > > Paul > > ------------------------------ > Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the web. Get the > Radio Toolbar<http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000003> > ! > > > > ------------------------------ > Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the web. Get the > Radio Toolbar<http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000003> > ! > > > > >

Sorry - must have hit a wrong button and this old post was sent. My apologies. From: Wayne Gillikin <wa… [at] yahoo.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, August 21, 2009 9:03:54 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Replacing Interior Vinyl on Cabin Walls From: DavidOwen <wi… [at] mariposasailing.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 5:21:21 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Replacing Interior Vinyl on Cabin Walls Bad News travels fast...... I've done this project, too and my experiences were similar to Wayne's. Wire brushes, various DA sanders, and even a 4" angle-grinder with 24 - 36 - 40, etc. grits just smeared the stuff around. I tried without noticeable success: Thinner Acetone Jasco paint brush cleaner/remover Interlux 206, 333, 333N, etc. etc. MEK Tueolene (laquer thinner) Denatured Alcohol Naptha? I tried with a little success, but way too much work and mess: 3M adhesive remover. It was expensive and worked slowly and required water and detergent cleanup and the surface still wasn't ready to paint without further sanding. So then, in desperation I called a couple of technical REPS at Jasco and later one at 3M. Both had ideas for me to try but nothing really worked until I spread some marine stripper on. NOTE: The stripper works even better on the polyester resin than it does the glue, so it's a real bad idea to use it unless you are just nuts desperate and stand over it and scrape the glue off before the fiberglass starts to melt as well. Not a good or fun scenario. The better option that worked for me after I had tried everything else, and the one that I settled on for the duration was a hot putty knife. A) 3M organic respirator and lots of fresh air through the boat. VERY IMPORTANT. B) Fire extinguisher close at hand. VERY IMPORTANT. C) A plumbers butane torch fastened to a large flat base so it CAN'T TIP OVER. D) A stiff putty knife about two or three inches across. E) A metal plaster-mixing- spreading box screwed to a plywood base so it won't move around on you. F) Leather gloves, jeans and a long sleeve thick shirt. HEAT THE PUTTY KNIFE, not the boat surface. Use the hot knife to slide under and lift off some glue. Scrape the glue into the metal plaster box, reheat the knife and repeat. Once you get enough of the adhesive off of the fiberglass, you can make a few passes with coarse and then finer sandpaper to finish. Good luck. Wilkie On Apr 20, 2009, at 12:30 PM, pwestla@aol. com wrote: > > >Wayne - > >Boy, you're just full of good news ;-) I can't wait to get started now! > >Would you happen to remember the products you tried? Were they making > "Goof Off" or "Oops" when you were tackling this? I assume you tried Acetone? > >Thanks > >Paul > >In a message dated 4/20/2009 3:22:05 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, waynegillikin@ yahoo.com writes: > >> >> >>The glue is a big problem. I stripped off all the vinyl in my boat because it was coming off anyway and the foam backing was disintegrating to brown powder. The glue residue comes in two forms: dry and gummy. I took the dry glue off by using a wire wheel in an electric sander. This process makes a huge mess of the interior of the boat >> and contributes to much domestic disharmony. But, it works. The gummy glue just clogged the wire wheel and rendered it useless. I tried everything to remove the glue but not a single commercial solvent or glue remover had the least effect. The solution: Interlux paint remover that is safe for fiberglass. It ain't perfect but it kinda works. The gummy glue merely scoffs at all other chemicals. >> >>I really can't help with the final cosmetics as I haven't figured that out myself yet. Whatever I come up with I feel confident will not include vinyl or >> glue. >> >>Regards, >>Wayne >> >> >> From: "pwestla@aol. com" <pwestla@aol. com> >>To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com >>Cc: CSOA@yahoogroups. com >>Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 2:58:50 PM >>Subject: [Cal_Boats] Replacing Interior Vinyl on Cabin Walls >> >> >>Does anyone know of a good way to replace the vinyl used to cover the raw fiberglass on the walls of interior of the cabin? I don't want to go back with more vinyl and to just paint it will leave it with the texture of the fiberglass. I suppose I could fair it like a keel but I was hoping for a simpler solution that wouldn't involve sanding. Even if I replaced the vinyl it still looks like there would be a fair amount of sanding to be done to get all the dried glue off. >> >>Anyone with some silver bullets out there for removing the old glue and replacing with something new. . . besides writing a big check to someone else to do it? >> >>This is next winter's chore. I figure it'll take that >> long to find a good solution or save the money ;-) >> >>Thanks - >> >>Paul >> Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the web. Get the Radio Toolbar! >> > Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the web. Get the Radio Toolbar!