FW: 1st & Last Hinckley B-40s at National Sailing Hall of Fame Next Wed.

For you old boat lovers. Cheers Charlie From: Jim Graham [mailto:ji… [at] santana-communications.com] Sent: Friday, August 28, 2009 10:55 AM To: Adam Sadag; Alan Weaver; Ali Mathews-Bacon; Angie Boyd; Art Puett; Barb & Warren Moyes; Barbara Best; Barbara Jagiello; Bill Colombo; Bob Awalt; Bob Bergtholdt; Bob Pierce; Bruce Schwab; Husar, Charlie [USA]; Chris Corlett; Chuck Wetteroth; Dave & Donnie Hankel; Denise Lugton; Dick Pino; Dominic; Doug Bailey; DougD - Mac; Elizabeth Masiello; Faure, Alain (RBI-UK); Greg Geyer; Jef Van Look; Jeff Winkelhake; John & Julie King; John Saucerman; Julia.Stocks; Ken Moore; Kevin Clark; ki… [at] comcast.net; Liddy Clark; mark sloane; Marylouise Higgins; Michael E McKown; Michael Roth; Mike & Conni; 'Mike Carlson'; Pat Nolan; Paul Sinz; Richard Whistler; Rob@Home; Roy Forsberg ; SHELLEY GEYER (SHELLEY GEYER); Sherren Bowan; Steve Waterloo; Sue Rau; Tony Kominoth; Tony Pohl; Tony_Kay; Wes Weber (Wes Weber); White, Eric Subject: 1st & Last Hinckley B-40s at National Sailing Hall of Fame Next Wed. [http://www.nshof.org/images/stories/HSHOF/nshof-logo-small.jpg] Hinckley B-40 50th Anniversary to Feature Both 1st and Last Hulls Built [http://org2.democracyinaction.org/o/5659/images/blast%20images/HuntressB40water.jpg] LATEST NEWS: Next Wednesday, for the first time ever, visitors to the National Sailing Hall of Fame Sailing Center will be able to see the entire span of production of the famous Hinckley Bermuda 40 design. HUNTRESS, hull #1 (photo above), and HIGHLANDS, hull #203, are respectively the first and last B-40s built. They illustrate 32 years of the evolution of the details of a design which, in its day, was the quintessential American yacht built to the CCA Rule. The hull never changed, but the deck lay out and the rig did. Come down to Annapolis City Dock next Wednesday for this rare opportunity to tour sailing history. National Sailing Hall of Fame Hosts Hinckley Bermuda 40 Association 50th Anniversary Wednesday, September 2, 2009 [http://org2.democracyinaction.org/o/5659/images/blast%20images/bermuda40.jpg] The National Sailing Hall of Fame will be hosting the Hinckley B-40 Association for a 50th Anniversary rendezvous at the DNR/National Sailing Hall of Fame Pier adjacent to Susan Campbell Park in Annapolis on Wednesday, September 2. The Bermuda 40 was designed in 1958 as a refinement of Bill Tripp's earlier Block Island 40 design. The sheer of the B-40 is slightly flatter, the transom more vertical and broader, and the bow is slightly less spoon-shaped. Henry R. Hinckley & Co. began production of the Bermuda 40 in 1959. Although Hinckley had experimented some with fiberglass boats prior to 1959, the B-40 was to become the bellwether for future production and established Hinckley as the premier North American builder of exceptional quality fiberglass sailing yachts. Over 200 Bermuda 40s have been built to date. The National Sailing Hall of Fame welcomes the return of the Bermuda 40 Association to the Sailing Center. Contact: Lee Tawney 410-952-3174 le… [at] nshof.org <mailto:le… [at] nshof.org?subject=Bermuda%2040%20Association%2050th%20Anniversary> August 28, 2009 [http://www.nshof.org/images/stories/HSHOF/nshof-logo-small.jpg] The National Sailing Hall of Fame & Museum * Preserving America's Sailing Legacy * Engaging Sailing's Next Generation

Inside every fiberglass boat was a wooden boat. That's what he told outraged customers at the first boat show that exhibited the B 40. Mike Kennedy Conquest Cal 40 # 96 On Aug 28, 2009, at 3:25 PM, Husar, Charlie [USA] wrote: > > For you old boat lovers. > > Cheers > Charlie > > From: Jim Graham [mailto:ji… [at] santana-communications.com] > Sent: Friday, August 28, 2009 10:55 AM > To: Adam Sadag; Alan Weaver; Ali Mathews-Bacon; Angie Boyd; Art > Puett; Barb & Warren Moyes; Barbara Best; Barbara Jagiello; Bill > Colombo; Bob Awalt; Bob Bergtholdt; Bob Pierce; Bruce Schwab; Husar, > Charlie [USA]; Chris Corlett; Chuck Wetteroth; Dave & Donnie Hankel; > Denise Lugton; Dick Pino; Dominic; Doug Bailey; DougD - Mac; > Elizabeth Masiello; Faure, Alain (RBI-UK); Greg Geyer; Jef Van Look; > Jeff Winkelhake; John & Julie King; John Saucerman; Julia.Stocks; > Ken Moore; Kevin Clark; ki… [at] comcast.net; Liddy Clark; mark > sloane; Marylouise Higgins; Michael E McKown; Michael Roth; Mike & > Conni; 'Mike Carlson'; Pat Nolan; Paul Sinz; Richard Whistler; > Rob@Home; Roy Forsberg ; SHELLEY GEYER (SHELLEY GEYER); Sherren > Bowan; Steve Waterloo; Sue Rau; Tony Kominoth; Tony Pohl; Tony_Kay; > Wes Weber (Wes Weber); White, Eric > Subject: 1st & Last Hinckley B-40s at National Sailing Hall of Fame > Next Wed. > > > > Hinckley B-40 50th Anniversary to Feature > Both 1st and Last Hulls Built > LATEST NEWS: Next Wednesday, for the first time ever, visitors to > the National Sailing Hall of Fame Sailing Center will be able to see > the entire span of production of the famous Hinckley Bermuda 40 > design. HUNTRESS, hull #1 (photo above), and HIGHLANDS, hull #203, > are respectively the first and last B-40s built. They illustrate 32 > years of the evolution of the details of a design which, in its day, > was the quintessential American yacht built to the CCA Rule. The > hull never changed, but the deck lay out and the rig did. > > Come down to Annapolis City Dock next Wednesday for this rare > opportunity to tour sailing history. > > National Sailing Hall of Fame HostsHinckley Bermuda 40 Association > 50th AnniversaryWednesday, September 2, 2009 > > > The National Sailing Hall of Fame will be hosting the Hinckley B-40 > Association for a 50th Anniversary rendezvous at the DNR/National > Sailing Hall of Fame Pier adjacent to Susan Campbell Park in > Annapolison Wednesday, September 2. > > The Bermuda 40 was designed in 1958 as a refinement of Bill Tripp's > earlier Block Island 40 design. The sheer of the B-40 is slightly > flatter, the transom more vertical and broader, and the bow is > slightly less spoon-shaped. Henry R. Hinckley & Co. began production > of the Bermuda 40 in 1959. Although Hinckley had experimented some > with fiberglass boats prior to 1959, the B-40 was to become the > bellwether for future production and established Hinckley as the > premier North American builder of exceptional quality fiberglass > sailing yachts. Over 200 Bermuda40s have been built to date. > > The National Sailing Hall of Fame welcomes the return of the Bermuda > 40 Association to the Sailing Center. > > Contact: Lee Tawney 410-952-3174 le… [at] nshof.org > > August 28, 2009 > > > > > > The National Sailing Hall of Fame & Museum > > * Preserving America's Sailing Legacy > * Engaging Sailing's Next Generation > > > > >

Michael Kennedy wrote: > Inside every fiberglass boat was a wooden boat. That's what he told > outraged customers at the first boat show that exhibited the B 40. > One advantage of getting older is seeing reports of things like this: outraged traditionalists, upset by new ideas. I tend to be a slow-adopter myself, a bit reluctant to trust new technology, but there is such a history of new ideas being controversial just because they are new. Look at the reception of the Cal 40, which under traditional views was not safe for sailing offshore. There's a difference between skepticism and true belief. The skeptic wonders about the new idea and waits to see how it works. The true believer is simply against it because it's contrary to belief, and cannot comprehend departure from belief. I still get upset by boats like the America's cup contenders that break in half. I'm offended by the notion that a proper sailboat can only function in a very narrow set of environmental conditions. Sailboats, in my view, ought to be vessels designed to function adequately in the reasonably anticipated range of conditions, and if you're sailing on large bodies of waters, that range is very wide. Winning in a boat that can only function in one set of conditions is mostly luck: you get lucky if your conditions prevail and your boat can function. Chris Campbell >

Hello All, We stepped Magic's mast yesterday after racing (2nd & 1st places, BTW). A friend has a 36 ft. Creekmore with a fairly tall rig. We rafted next to him, secured the main halyard to his main halyard, removed the backstay, forestay, port shrounds, and finally the starboard shrouds. Crew kept the mast stable as others lifted/moved the mast forward and secured it at the bow rail. Finally the mast was lowered and secured to the stern rail. All in all, it took about 30 minutes. More deck hands would have made the job easier, but in the end all was good. After work tonight, I'll remove/label the spreaders, shrouds & stays prior to moving the mast to the dock. I have about 8 friends showing up for the move. I plan to document this project and post photos. Comments and questions are welcome. Michael s/v Magic, Cal 2-27 Pompano Beach, FL

--- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, Michael D <mddfl@...> wrote: > Michael, Most definitely interested in the unstepping/restepping process and procedures. Can't wait to see photos! Harold Beer Arcturus Cal 2-27 #189 Tower Harbour Yacht Club thyc.org

We were somewhat shorthanded during the take down of the mast. I was too busy to notice if anyone took photos, but here is what I have at the moment. See http://www.flickr.com/photos/stefsail/sets/72157622081060993/ As of now, the mast has been stripped of standing & running rigging, and we lifted it from Magic onto the dock last night. BTW, it's considerably lighter without the shrouds & stays. I removed the sheaves last night and found two of them split. I'll be looking for replacements pronto. Also it appears that the port spreader bracket was under some excessive pressure at one time and the base plate is warped along with the weld/bead has a small crack in it. It happened prior to our ownership; maybe someone was diving off it. I have no idea. Regards, Michael

Lets try that again, see http://www.flickr.com/photos/stefsail/sets/72157622081060993/ Michael

I removed the sheaves from the masthead last night. I can't identify the material that they are made of. They are a brown plastic material and look somewhat like Bakelite. Two were split in half like an open sandwich. That at least explains why raising lowering the sails was difficult. None have bearings. All four are 1/2" wide with an 7/16" ID. Three have a 2" OD, and one has a 2,9/16" OD. My guess is that the larger one was a replacement by a PO. Anyone have a good source for replacements? I prefer to go with bearing replacements if available. Thanks, Michael s/v Magic, Cal 2-27 Pompano Beach, FL

Hi, Michael. Those sheaves appear to be identical to the ones for the CAL 25 flat deck. Just went out and measured a set I happen to have in the trunk of my car. Be careful about the 1/2" thickness. On the 25, the are 7/16 thick. If you try to put 2 half inchers side by side on a 25, they will not fit (hard lessons learned). The larger sheave is for the aft side of the main halyard (starboard aft at the masthead?). It is original and keeps the headboard of the main away from the mast. Yes bakelite or phenolic of some sort. Old ones often split due to wire halyards. Almost all CAL 25s have gone to rope halyards now. We had 10 sets machined by hand for CAL 25s. Rugged black stuff (forgot material) with oilite bearings inserted. 1/4" hole in bearings. We had ours made for rope halyards. Most of the boats use 5/16" or 3/8" for halyards. Warn you that the cost is a little over $100 a set (need to check - we/I dispense them at cost). I do have a spare set, yep right out there in my trunk. Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Michael D Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 2009 10:59 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: [Cal_Boats] Masthead Sheaves I removed the sheaves from the masthead last night. I can't identify the material that they are made of. They are a brown plastic material and look somewhat like Bakelite. Two were split in half like an open sandwich. That at least explains why raising lowering the sails was difficult. None have bearings. All four are 1/2" wide with an 7/16" ID. Three have a 2" OD, and one has a 2,9/16" OD. My guess is that the larger one was a replacement by a PO. Anyone have a good source for replacements? I prefer to go with bearing replacements if available. Thanks, Michael s/v Magic, Cal 2-27 Pompano Beach, FL

Charlie, Correction: the ID of all bearings is 3/8"... they just a bit worn out and initially measured as 7/16". In the masthead, they are separated by a 3/16" aluminum plate. Thanks for the info on the larger sheave. Yes it was the aft starboard sheave for the main halyard. We have been using 3/8" StaSet-X (rope) halyards. I don't know what the previous owners used. What is the ID of the bearings without the oilite bushings? 1/4" seems a bit undersized for the weather we sail in. Regards, Michael --- On Tue, 9/1/09, Husar, Charlie [USA] <hu… [at] bah.com> wrote: Hi, Michael. Those sheaves appear to be identical to the ones for the CAL 25 flat deck. Just went out and measured a set I happen to have in the trunk of my car. Be careful about the 1/2" thickness. On the 25, the are 7/16 thick. If you try to put 2 half inchers side by side on a 25, they will not fit (hard lessons learned). The larger sheave is for the aft side of the main halyard (starboard aft at the masthead?). It is original and keeps the headboard of the main away from the mast. Yes bakelite or phenolic of some sort. Old ones often split due to wire halyards. Almost all CAL 25s have gone to rope halyards now. We had 10 sets machined by hand for CAL 25s. Rugged black stuff (forgot material) with oilite bearings inserted. 1/4" hole in bearings. We had ours made for rope halyards. Most of the boats use 5/16" or 3/8" for halyards. Warn you that the cost is a little over $100 a set (need to check - we/I dispense them at cost). I do have a spare set, yep right out there in my trunk. Cheers Charlie

Michael, It's surprising that although our boats are only 23 numbers apart (627 vs. 650) we have completely different masts. Mine is a Kenyon and yours looks like it might have been made byLefiell http://www.lefiell.com/frameset.html For sheaves the following company has been mentioned several times on various e-mails http://www.zephyrwerks.com/default.asp John Boyce Gotcha Again Cal 227 #650 _____ From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Michael D Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 2009 9:59 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: [Cal_Boats] Masthead Sheaves I removed the sheaves from the masthead last night. I can't identify the material that they are made of. They are a brown plastic material and look somewhat like Bakelite. Two were split in half like an open sandwich. That at least explains why raising lowering the sails was difficult. None have bearings. All four are 1/2" wide with an 7/16" ID. Three have a 2" OD, and one has a 2,9/16" OD. My guess is that the larger one was a replacement by a PO. Anyone have a good source for replacements? I prefer to go with bearing replacements if available. Thanks, Michael s/v Magic, Cal 2-27 Pompano Beach, FL

http://www.rigrite.com/ Reggie To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: md… [at] yahoo.com Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 07:59:20 -0700 Subject: [Cal_Boats] Masthead Sheaves I removed the sheaves from the masthead last night. I can't identify the material that they are made of. They are a brown plastic material and look somewhat like Bakelite. Two were split in half like an open sandwich. That at least explains why raising lowering the sails was difficult. None have bearings. All four are 1/2" wide with an 7/16" ID. Three have a 2" OD, and one has a 2,9/16" OD. My guess is that the larger one was a replacement by a PO. Anyone have a good source for replacements? I prefer to go with bearing replacements if available. Thanks, Michael s/v Magic, Cal 2-27 Pompano Beach, FL

actually http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Sheaves.html I bought mine here. multiple materials available. wire groove, rope groove or combination. I decided to go with larger diamater sheaves with bearings. I thought they were quite inexpensive at the time, several years ago. Reggie To: ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: my… [at] hotmail.com Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 16:26:18 -0600 Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] Masthead Sheaves http://www.rigrite.com/ Reggie To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: md… [at] yahoo.com Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 07:59:20 -0700 Subject: [Cal_Boats] Masthead Sheaves I removed the sheaves from the masthead last night. I can't identify the material that they are made of. They are a brown plastic material and look somewhat like Bakelite. Two were split in half like an open sandwich. That at least explains why raising lowering the sails was difficult. None have bearings. All four are 1/2" wide with an 7/16" ID. Three have a 2" OD, and one has a 2,9/16" OD. My guess is that the larger one was a replacement by a PO. Anyone have a good source for replacements? I prefer to go with bearing replacements if available. Thanks, Michael s/v Magic, Cal 2-27 Pompano Beach, FL

I will ditto the quality and service of Zephyrworks for new main sheaves for my cal 29 - the old ones were original and were for wire to rope. so when i changed to all rope - SNAG!!! the new ones are tooled to your exact specs - they work perfect!!!! worth the $$$ Shelley Richards Cal 29 154 Seven Sisters wilson NY formerly ALameda CA From: John Boyce <je… [at] gmail.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Tue, Sep 1, 2009 5:11 pm Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] Masthead Sheaves Michael, It's surprising that although our boats are only 23 numbers apart (627 vs. 650) we have completely different masts. Mine is a Kenyon and yours looks like it might have been made byLefiell http://www.lefiell.com/frameset.html ? For sheaves the following company has been mentioned several times on various e-mails ? http://www.zephyrwerks.com/default.asp ? John Boyce Gotcha Again Cal 227 #650 From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Michael D Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 2009 9:59 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: [Cal_Boats] Masthead Sheaves ? I removed the sheaves from the masthead last night.? I can't identify the material that they are made of.? They are a brown plastic material and look somewhat like Bakelite.? Two were split in half like an open sandwich.? That at least explains why raising lowering the sails was difficult. None have bearings.? All four are 1/2" wide with an 7/16" ID.? Three have a 2" OD, and one has a 2,9/16" OD.? My guess is that the larger one was a replacement by a PO. Anyone have a good source for replacements?? I prefer to go with bearing replacements if available. Thanks, Michael s/v Magic, Cal 2-27 Pompano Beach, FL

ps - in case you have never removed your main halyard sheaves from the masthead - in a Cal 29 there are two of them, a small one and a big one!!!! twice the $$$ Zephyworks replacement cost 152 for both including shipping.I sent him the old sheave so he could measure the ID. specs 4" x .5" x .937 grooved for 3/8 line ($52) 5.5. " x.5 x .937 grooved for 3/8 inch line ($86) his email is ed… [at] cablespeed.com www.zephyrwerks.com Shelley RIchards Cal 29 #154 From: John Boyce <je… [at] gmail.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Tue, Sep 1, 2009 5:11 pm Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] Masthead Sheaves Michael, It's surprising that although our boats are only 23 numbers apart (627 vs. 650) we have completely different masts. Mine is a Kenyon and yours looks like it might have been made byLefiell http://www.lefiell.com/frameset.html ? For sheaves the following company has been mentioned several times on various e-mails ? http://www.zephyrwerks.com/default.asp ? John Boyce Gotcha Again Cal 227 #650 From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Michael D Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 2009 9:59 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: [Cal_Boats] Masthead Sheaves ? I removed the sheaves from the masthead last night.? I can't identify the material that they are made of.? They are a brown plastic material and look somewhat like Bakelite.? Two were split in half like an open sandwich.? That at least explains why raising lowering the sails was difficult. None have bearings.? All four are 1/2" wide with an 7/16" ID.? Three have a 2" OD, and one has a 2,9/16" OD.? My guess is that the larger one was a replacement by a PO. Anyone have a good source for replacements?? I prefer to go with bearing replacements if available. Thanks, Michael s/v Magic, Cal 2-27 Pompano Beach, FL

Zehyrwerks in Port Townsend http://www.zephyrwerks.com/ Send them the old ones they send you back new replacements made to order. Terry Capriccio Cal 2-29 Tacoma, WA From: Michael D <md… [at] yahoo.com> Reply-To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 07:59:20 -0700 (PDT) To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: [Cal_Boats] Masthead Sheaves I removed the sheaves from the masthead last night. I can't identify the material that they are made of. They are a brown plastic material and look somewhat like Bakelite. Two were split in half like an open sandwich. That at least explains why raising lowering the sails was difficult. None have bearings. All four are 1/2" wide with an 7/16" ID. Three have a 2" OD, and one has a 2,9/16" OD. My guess is that the larger one was a replacement by a PO. Anyone have a good source for replacements? I prefer to go with bearing replacements if available. Thanks, Michael s/v Magic, Cal 2-27 Pompano Beach, FL >

Thanks to everyone for your input. My old sheaves and pins are on their way to Zephyrwerks. I should have new ones by the end of next week. --Michael--

All, Here is the link with updated photos from our mast rebuild project. http://www.flickr.com/photos/stefsail/sets/72157622081060993/ Yesterday, most of the paint was sanded off the mast. I still have one stubborn winch plate to remove. I guess it will need some heat applied to free the screws. FYI, I measured the mast wall thickness at 5/32". My brother-in-law has a welder that I plan to seal up a lot of no longer needed holes; suggestions are welcome. I completed installation of the mast step plate yesterday. Today, we will attack the spreaders, boom, and other miscellaneous items. We expect to receive the new sheaves in the mail on Tuesday. We are making an inventory of still needed blocks, deck organizers, and other hardware; input is welcome. I have two boxes of Awlgrip products to passivate. prime, and paint the spars. That stuff is pricey!!! Michael

Many Cal masts were made with 6061-T6 alloy. I was told by my welder that welding this alloy will "turn it to butter" I repaired my mast holes with an alloy plate held by pop rivets and 5200 sealer. This has worked well for me., My Best, Mike --- On Sun, 9/6/09, Michael D <md… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: From: Michael D <md… [at] yahoo.com> Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 4:17 AM All, Here is the link with updated photos from our mast rebuild project. http://www.flickr.com/photos/stefsail/sets/72157622081060993/ Yesterday, most of the paint was sanded off the mast. I still have one stubborn winch plate to remove. I guess it will need some heat applied to free the screws. FYI, I measured the mast wall thickness at 5/32". My brother-in-law has a welder that I plan to seal up a lot of no longer needed holes; suggestions are welcome. I completed installation of the mast step plate yesterday. Today, we will attack the spreaders, boom, and other miscellaneous items. We expect to receive the new sheaves in the mail on Tuesday. We are making an inventory of still needed blocks, deck organizers, and other hardware; input is welcome. I have two boxes of Awlgrip products to passivate. prime, and paint the spars. That stuff is pricey!!! Michael

I have heard the same about some alloy's some have a coating that makes welding very difficult .. Spreaders . Mine are wood .. years back I covered the top side with copper . rolled it over the sides and screwed it down .. almost 30 years back .... I have had them down and removed and inspected .. stripped the old varnish off and added fresh .. I did bed the copper with dolphinite ?? its been a long time back .. But it kept the wood like new ... you may have aluminum spreaders ?? From: mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2009 7:49:16 AM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F Many Cal masts were made with 6061-T6 alloy. I was told by my welder that welding this alloy will "turn it to butter" I repaired my mast holes with an alloy plate held by pop rivets and 5200 sealer. This has worked well for me., My Best, Mike --- On Sun, 9/6/09, Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> wrote: >From: Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> >Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding >To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com >Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 4:17 AM > > > > > >All, > >Here is the link with updated photos from our mast rebuild project. http://www.flickr. com/photos/ stefsail/ sets/72157622081 060993/ > >Yesterday, most of the paint was sanded off the mast. I still have one stubborn winch plate to remove. I guess it will need some heat applied to free the screws. FYI, I measured the mast wall thickness at 5/32". > >My brother-in-law has a welder that I plan to seal up a lot of no longer needed holes; suggestions are welcome.. I completed installation of the mast step plate yesterday. Today, we will attack the spreaders, boom, and other miscellaneous items. > >We expect to receive the new sheaves in the mail on Tuesday. We are making an inventory of still needed blocks, deck organizers, and other hardware; input is welcome. I have two boxes of Awlgrip products to passivate. prime, and paint the spars. That stuff is pricey!!! > >Michael > > >

Hi Michael, I have done this exact job to our mast.... Here are some photos in this album. <http://picasaweb.google.ca/fortyfunctions/ChimeraAModifiedCal330#> Welding can be tricky, you need a decent TIG machine with AC balancing, and the right filler rod (5356). Avoid putting too much heat into the mast. The heat affected zone around the weld will be weakened somewhat in the alloy, but will regain most of it's strength in a week or two with aging.... to about 80% anyway.... more as time goes by. Follow the instructions on the LP paint very closely. We did the roll and tip method and it came out like a million bucks. Did it 5 years ago and is still like new. Cheers, Alan Storey Cal 3-30X 'Chimera' Vancouver BC On 6-Sep-09, at 4:17 AM, Michael D wrote: > All, > > Here is the link with updated photos from our mast rebuild > project. http://www.flickr.com/photos/stefsail/sets/ > 72157622081060993/ > > Yesterday, most of the paint was sanded off the mast. I still have > one stubborn winch plate to remove. I guess it will need some heat > applied to free the screws. FYI, I measured the mast wall > thickness at 5/32". > > My brother-in-law has a welder that I plan to seal up a lot of no > longer needed holes; suggestions are welcome. I completed > installation of the mast step plate yesterday. Today, we will > attack the spreaders, boom, and other miscellaneous items. > > We expect to receive the new sheaves in the mail on Tuesday. We > are making an inventory of still needed blocks, deck organizers, > and other hardware; input is welcome. I have two boxes of Awlgrip > products to passivate. prime, and paint the spars. That stuff is > pricey!!! > > Michael > >

Mike, Thanks for the caution on trying to weld the spars. The purpose of welding these holes closed is primarily to seal them off. The base end of the mast has lots of holes from a PO installing pad eyes & blocks. Looking down inside boom under light is like Swiss cheese. None of the holes I want to close are intended to be re-drilled/tapped for fittings. So what are my options? Should I just epoxy close them with some light weight glass & resin? Opinions? Thanks, --Michael-- --- On Sun, 9/6/09, mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: From: mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 10:49 AM Many Cal masts were made with 6061-T6 alloy. I was told by my welder that welding this alloy will "turn it to butter" I repaired my mast holes with an alloy plate held by pop rivets and 5200 sealer. This has worked well for me., My Best, Mike --- On Sun, 9/6/09, Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> wrote: From: Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 4:17 AM All, Here is the link with updated photos from our mast rebuild project. http://www.flickr. com/photos/ stefsail/ sets/72157622081 060993/ Yesterday, most of the paint was sanded off the mast. I still have one stubborn winch plate to remove. I guess it will need some heat applied to free the screws. FYI, I measured the mast wall thickness at 5/32". My brother-in-law has a welder that I plan to seal up a lot of no longer needed holes; suggestions are welcome. I completed installation of the mast step plate yesterday. Today, we will attack the spreaders, boom, and other miscellaneous items. We expect to receive the new sheaves in the mail on Tuesday. We are making an inventory of still needed blocks, deck organizers, and other hardware; input is welcome. I have two boxes of Awlgrip products to passivate. prime, and paint the spars. That stuff is pricey!!! Michael

This is a good subject and we have a welder on our dock that is part of this list and I hope J.R. can respond to welding spars . I bought a new boom from Le feild and it was welded and I can only if done right by a welder that is certified you should be ok. I hope that J.R. can respond to your queastions Dave Paulson ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael D To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2009 2:40 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F Mike, Thanks for the caution on trying to weld the spars. The purpose of welding these holes closed is primarily to seal them off. The base end of the mast has lots of holes from a PO installing pad eyes & blocks. Looking down inside boom under light is like Swiss cheese. None of the holes I want to close are intended to be re-drilled/tapped for fittings. So what are my options? Should I just epoxy close them with some light weight glass & resin? Opinions? Thanks, --Michael-- --- On Sun, 9/6/09, mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: From: mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 10:49 AM Many Cal masts were made with 6061-T6 alloy. I was told by my welder that welding this alloy will "turn it to butter" I repaired my mast holes with an alloy plate held by pop rivets and 5200 sealer. This has worked well for me., My Best, Mike --- On Sun, 9/6/09, Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> wrote: From: Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 4:17 AM All, Here is the link with updated photos from our mast rebuild project. http://www.flickr. com/photos/ stefsail/ sets/72157622081 060993/ Yesterday, most of the paint was sanded off the mast. I still have one stubborn winch plate to remove. I guess it will need some heat applied to free the screws. FYI, I measured the mast wall thickness at 5/32". My brother-in-law has a welder that I plan to seal up a lot of no longer needed holes; suggestions are welcome. I completed installation of the mast step plate yesterday. Today, we will attack the spreaders, boom, and other miscellaneous items. We expect to receive the new sheaves in the mail on Tuesday. We are making an inventory of still needed blocks, deck organizers, and other hardware; input is welcome. I have two boxes of Awlgrip products to passivate. prime, and paint the spars. That stuff is pricey!!! Michael

Yeah I do. I clean all the build off, and then I just re install them if no pits are really deep, if deep I replace them, my best, Mike --- On Sun, 9/6/09, Michael Donoian <do… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: From: Michael Donoian <do… [at] yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 8:15 AM I have heard the same about some alloy's some have a coating that makes welding very difficult .. Spreaders . Mine are wood .. years back I covered the top side with copper . rolled it over the sides and screwed it down .. almost 30 years back .... I have had them down and removed and inspected ... stripped the old varnish off and added fresh .. I did bed the copper with dolphinite ?? its been a long time back .. But it kept the wood like new ... you may have aluminum spreaders ?? From: mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2009 7:49:16 AM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F Many Cal masts were made with 6061-T6 alloy. I was told by my welder that welding this alloy will "turn it to butter" I repaired my mast holes with an alloy plate held by pop rivets and 5200 sealer. This has worked well for me., My Best, Mike --- On Sun, 9/6/09, Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> wrote: From: Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 4:17 AM All, Here is the link with updated photos from our mast rebuild project. http://www.flickr. com/photos/ stefsail/ sets/72157622081 060993/ Yesterday, most of the paint was sanded off the mast. I still have one stubborn winch plate to remove. I guess it will need some heat applied to free the screws. FYI, I measured the mast wall thickness at 5/32". My brother-in-law has a welder that I plan to seal up a lot of no longer needed holes; suggestions are welcome. I completed installation of the mast step plate yesterday. Today, we will attack the spreaders, boom, and other miscellaneous items. We expect to receive the new sheaves in the mail on Tuesday. We are making an inventory of still needed blocks, deck organizers, and other hardware; input is welcome. I have two boxes of Awlgrip products to passivate. prime, and paint the spars. That stuff is pricey!!! Michael

That sounds good! I think you have it really covered!, My Best, Mike --- On Sun, 9/6/09, Alan Storey <fo… [at] shaw.ca> wrote: From: Alan Storey <fo… [at] shaw.ca> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 11:44 AM Hi Michael, I have done this exact job to our mast.... Here are some photos in this album. <http://picasaweb.google.ca/fortyfunctions/ChimeraAModifiedCal330#> Welding can be tricky, you need a decent TIG machine with AC balancing, and the right filler rod (5356). Avoid putting too much heat into the mast. The heat affected zone around the weld will be weakened somewhat in the alloy, but will regain most of it's strength in a week or two with aging.... to about 80% anyway.... more as time goes by. Follow the instructions on the LP paint very closely. We did the roll and tip method and it came out like a million bucks. Did it 5 years ago and is still like new. Cheers, Alan Storey Cal 3-30X 'Chimera' Vancouver BC On 6-Sep-09, at 4:17 AM, Michael D wrote: All, Here is the link with updated photos from our mast rebuild project. http://www.flickr. com/photos/ stefsail/ sets/72157622081 060993/ Yesterday, most of the paint was sanded off the mast. I still have one stubborn winch plate to remove. I guess it will need some heat applied to free the screws. FYI, I measured the mast wall thickness at 5/32". My brother-in-law has a welder that I plan to seal up a lot of no longer needed holes; suggestions are welcome. I completed installation of the mast step plate yesterday. Today, we will attack the spreaders, boom, and other miscellaneous items. We expect to receive the new sheaves in the mail on Tuesday. We are making an inventory of still needed blocks, deck organizers, and other hardware; input is welcome. I have two boxes of Awlgrip products to passivate. prime, and paint the spars. That stuff is pricey!!! Michael

I really don't know. My task is to stop further loss of mast substance and to keep as much integrety as i can, My Best, Mike --- On Sun, 9/6/09, Michael D <md… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: From: Michael D <md… [at] yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 2:40 PM Mike, Thanks for the caution on trying to weld the spars. The purpose of welding these holes closed is primarily to seal them off. The base end of the mast has lots of holes from a PO installing pad eyes & blocks. Looking down inside boom under light is like Swiss cheese. None of the holes I want to close are intended to be re-drilled/tapped for fittings. So what are my options? Should I just epoxy close them with some light weight glass & resin? Opinions? Thanks, --Michael-- --- On Sun, 9/6/09, mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: From: mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 10:49 AM Many Cal masts were made with 6061-T6 alloy. I was told by my welder that welding this alloy will "turn it to butter" I repaired my mast holes with an alloy plate held by pop rivets and 5200 sealer. This has worked well for me., My Best, Mike --- On Sun, 9/6/09, Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> wrote: From: Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 4:17 AM All, Here is the link with updated photos from our mast rebuild project. http://www.flickr. com/photos/ stefsail/ sets/72157622081 060993/ Yesterday, most of the paint was sanded off the mast. I still have one stubborn winch plate to remove. I guess it will need some heat applied to free the screws. FYI, I measured the mast wall thickness at 5/32". My brother-in-law has a welder that I plan to seal up a lot of no longer needed holes; suggestions are welcome. I completed installation of the mast step plate yesterday. Today, we will attack the spreaders, boom, and other miscellaneous items. We expect to receive the new sheaves in the mail on Tuesday. We are making an inventory of still needed blocks, deck organizers, and other hardware; input is welcome. I have two boxes of Awlgrip products to passivate. prime, and paint the spars. That stuff is pricey!!! Michael

Well, you can apply some silicone grease, lanicote, or similar, and pop rivet them closed too, probably stronger than just covering the holes. Or,... I wrapped the base of my mast in fiber glass cloth and west systems, like an ace bandage, so far, so good. It beats having all your standing rigging shortened and getting clobbered by the boom. OUch! Jerry --- On Sun, 9/6/09, mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: From: mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 7:46 PM I really don't know. My task is to stop further loss of mast substance and to keep as much integrety as i can, My Best, Mike --- On Sun, 9/6/09, Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> wrote: From: Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 2:40 PM Mike, Thanks for the caution on trying to weld the spars. The purpose of welding these holes closed is primarily to seal them off. The base end of the mast has lots of holes from a PO installing pad eyes & blocks. Looking down inside boom under light is like Swiss cheese. None of the holes I want to close are intended to be re-drilled/tapped for fittings. So what are my options? Should I just epoxy close them with some light weight glass & resin? Opinions? Thanks, --Michael-- --- On Sun, 9/6/09, mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> wrote: From: mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 10:49 AM Many Cal masts were made with 6061-T6 alloy. I was told by my welder that welding this alloy will "turn it to butter" I repaired my mast holes with an alloy plate held by pop rivets and 5200 sealer. This has worked well for me., My Best, Mike --- On Sun, 9/6/09, Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> wrote: From: Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 4:17 AM All, Here is the link with updated photos from our mast rebuild project. http://www.flickr. com/photos/ stefsail/ sets/72157622081 060993/ Yesterday, most of the paint was sanded off the mast. I still have one stubborn winch plate to remove. I guess it will need some heat applied to free the screws. FYI, I measured the mast wall thickness at 5/32". My brother-in-law has a welder that I plan to seal up a lot of no longer needed holes; suggestions are welcome. I completed installation of the mast step plate yesterday. Today, we will attack the spreaders, boom, and other miscellaneous items. We expect to receive the new sheaves in the mail on Tuesday. We are making an inventory of still needed blocks, deck organizers, and other hardware; input is welcome. I have two boxes of Awlgrip products to passivate. prime, and paint the spars. That stuff is pricey!!! Michael

In the same subject my 29's mast has got corrosion around the gooseneck. I was wondering what could be done about that? It doesn't seem to be so bad the boom is going to come off but I don't know what might happen in the future. Thanks, Scott 74 Cal29 _____ From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gerald Sobel Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2009 10:46 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F Well, you can apply some silicone grease, lanicote, or similar, and pop rivet them closed too, probably stronger than just covering the holes. Or,... I wrapped the base of my mast in fiber glass cloth and west systems, like an ace bandage, so far, so good. It beats having all your standing rigging shortened and getting clobbered by the boom. OUch! Jerry --- On Sun, 9/6/09, mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: From: mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 7:46 PM I really don't know. My task is to stop further loss of mast substance and to keep as much integrety as i can, My Best, Mike --- On Sun, 9/6/09, Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> wrote: From: Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 2:40 PM Mike, Thanks for the caution on trying to weld the spars. The purpose of welding these holes closed is primarily to seal them off. The base end of the mast has lots of holes from a PO installing pad eyes & blocks. Looking down inside boom under light is like Swiss cheese. None of the holes I want to close are intended to be re-drilled/tapped for fittings. So what are my options? Should I just epoxy close them with some light weight glass & resin? Opinions? Thanks, --Michael-- --- On Sun, 9/6/09, mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> wrote: From: mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 10:49 AM Many Cal masts were made with 6061-T6 alloy. I was told by my welder that welding this alloy will "turn it to butter" I repaired my mast holes with an alloy plate held by pop rivets and 5200 sealer. This has worked well for me., My Best, Mike --- On Sun, 9/6/09, Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> wrote: From: Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 4:17 AM All, Here is the link with updated photos from our mast rebuild project. http://www.flickr. com/photos/ stefsail/ <http://www.flickr.com/photos/stefsail/sets/72157622081060993/> sets/72157622081 060993/ Yesterday, most of the paint was sanded off the mast. I still have one stubborn winch plate to remove. I guess it will need some heat applied to free the screws. FYI, I measured the mast wall thickness at 5/32". My brother-in-law has a welder that I plan to seal up a lot of no longer needed holes; suggestions are welcome. I completed installation of the mast step plate yesterday. Today, we will attack the spreaders, boom, and other miscellaneous items. We expect to receive the new sheaves in the mail on Tuesday. We are making an inventory of still needed blocks, deck organizers, and other hardware; input is welcome. I have two boxes of Awlgrip products to passivate. prime, and paint the spars. That stuff is pricey!!! Michael

I have been told , it is better to install a screw in unused holes , than leave them open .. Tap them to the thread size you can , install a good Stainless screw and leave it alone .. Now if you have a lot of holes where blocks were installed at the base , instead of a plate with holes ........ You have a problem .. I don't think the ace bandage wrap will do anything for strength for sure .... might look for collar matching duck tape ...... Or talk to a welder , step the mast , maybe weld or screw a sleeve inside . and up a ways .. just like a splice .. Wraps are for lunch .. duck tape is not a fix ..... It may not be your ass that gets trashed when it comes down ... Fix it right the first time .. From: Gerald Sobel <so… [at] yahoo.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2009 10:46:17 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F Well, you can apply some silicone grease, lanicote, or similar, and pop rivet them closed too, probably stronger than just covering the holes. Or,... I wrapped the base of my mast in fiber glass cloth and west systems, like an ace bandage, so far, so good. It beats having all your standing rigging shortened and getting clobbered by the boom. OUch! Jerry --- On Sun, 9/6/09, mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> wrote: >From: mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> >Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F >To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com >Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 7:46 PM > > > >I really don't know. My task is to stop further loss of mast substance and to keep as much integrety as i can, > My Best, Mike > >--- On Sun, 9/6/09, Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> wrote: > > >>From: Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> >>Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F >>To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com >>Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 2:40 PM >> >> >> >> >> >>Mike, >> >>Thanks for the caution on trying to weld the spars. The purpose of welding these holes closed is primarily to seal them off. The base end of the mast has lots of holes from a PO installing pad eyes & blocks. Looking down inside boom under light is like Swiss cheese. None of the holes I want to close are intended to be re-drilled/tapped for fittings. >> >>So what are my options? Should I just epoxy close them with some light weight glass & resin? Opinions? >> >>Thanks, >>--Michael-- >> >>--- On Sun, 9/6/09, mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> wrote: >> >> >>>From: mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> >>>Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F >>>To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com >>>Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 10:49 AM >>> >>> >>> >>>Many Cal masts were made with 6061-T6 alloy. I was told by my welder that welding this alloy will "turn it to butter" I repaired my mast holes with an alloy plate held by pop rivets and 5200 sealer. This has worked well for me., >>> My Best, Mike >>> >>>--- On Sun, 9/6/09, Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> wrote: >>> >>> >>>>From: Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> >>>>Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding >>>>To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com >>>>Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 4:17 AM >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>All, >>>> >>>>Here is the link with updated photos from our mast rebuild project. http://www.flickr. com/photos/ stefsail/ sets/72157622081 060993/ >>>> >>>>Yesterday, most of the paint was sanded off the mast. I still have one stubborn winch plate to remove. I guess it will need some heat applied to free the screws. FYI, I measured the mast wall thickness at 5/32". >>>> >>>>My brother-in-law has a welder that I plan to seal up a lot of no longer needed holes; suggestions are welcome. I completed installation of the mast step plate yesterday. Today, we will attack the spreaders, boom, and other miscellaneous items. >>>> >>>>We expect to receive the new sheaves in the mail on Tuesday. We are making an inventory of still needed blocks, deck organizers, and other hardware; input is welcome. I have two boxes of Awlgrip products to passivate.. prime, and paint the spars. That stuff is pricey!!! >>>> >>>>Michael >>>> >>>> >>>> >> >> >>

Hi Gerald, If you do install something in a hole use a barrier type sealer so electrolysis will not take place. I use a never sieze compound,but I have been told there are better barrier sealers available. Often I clean as much off as I can and use a silver silicone sealer to protect the alloy and to prevent the holes from getting bigger. If structure is an issue, an earlier post excellently described the welding process so as to keep strength in the spar. My Best, Mike --- On Mon, 9/7/09, Michael Donoian <do… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: From: Michael Donoian <do… [at] yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, September 7, 2009, 7:48 AM I have been told , it is better to install a screw in unused holes , than leave them open .. Tap them to the thread size you can , install a good Stainless screw and leave it alone ... Now if you have a lot of holes where blocks were installed at the base , instead of a plate with holes ........ You have a problem .. I don't think the ace bandage wrap will do anything for strength for sure .... might look for collar matching duck tape ...... Or talk to a welder , step the mast , maybe weld or screw a sleeve inside . and up a ways .. just like a splice .. Wraps are for lunch .. duck tape is not a fix .... It may not be your ass that gets trashed when it comes down ... Fix it right the first time .. From: Gerald Sobel <so… [at] yahoo.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2009 10:46:17 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F Well, you can apply some silicone grease, lanicote, or similar, and pop rivet them closed too, probably stronger than just covering the holes. Or,... I wrapped the base of my mast in fiber glass cloth and west systems, like an ace bandage, so far, so good. It beats having all your standing rigging shortened and getting clobbered by the boom. OUch! Jerry --- On Sun, 9/6/09, mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> wrote: From: mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 7:46 PM I really don't know. My task is to stop further loss of mast substance and to keep as much integrety as i can, My Best, Mike --- On Sun, 9/6/09, Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> wrote: From: Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 2:40 PM Mike, Thanks for the caution on trying to weld the spars. The purpose of welding these holes closed is primarily to seal them off. The base end of the mast has lots of holes from a PO installing pad eyes & blocks.. Looking down inside boom under light is like Swiss cheese. None of the holes I want to close are intended to be re-drilled/tapped for fittings. So what are my options? Should I just epoxy close them with some light weight glass & resin? Opinions? Thanks, --Michael-- --- On Sun, 9/6/09, mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> wrote: From: mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 10:49 AM Many Cal masts were made with 6061-T6 alloy. I was told by my welder that welding this alloy will "turn it to butter" I repaired my mast holes with an alloy plate held by pop rivets and 5200 sealer. This has worked well for me., My Best, Mike --- On Sun, 9/6/09, Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> wrote: From: Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 4:17 AM All, Here is the link with updated photos from our mast rebuild project. http://www.flickr.. com/photos/ stefsail/ sets/72157622081 060993/ Yesterday, most of the paint was sanded off the mast. I still have one stubborn winch plate to remove. I guess it will need some heat applied to free the screws. FYI, I measured the mast wall thickness at 5/32". My brother-in-law has a welder that I plan to seal up a lot of no longer needed holes; suggestions are welcome. I completed installation of the mast step plate yesterday. Today, we will attack the spreaders, boom, and other miscellaneous items. We expect to receive the new sheaves in the mail on Tuesday. We are making an inventory of still needed blocks, deck organizers, and other hardware; input is welcome. I have two boxes of Awlgrip products to passivate. prime, and paint the spars. That stuff is pricey!!! Michael

"I've been told?" Michael, Stainless steel will rot aluminum. I"ve backed out stainless screws from my aluminum mast and found jagged, thin walled holes in the mast as an aftermath, but where I put silicone grease on the screw before inserting it I didn't. Anytime you have dis-similar metals, you get a galvanic reaction, as one metal is always more "nobel" than the other. This can even happen with dis-similar aluminum alloys, that's why I'd suggest putting silicone grease (you can get it from any pool supply store..it comes in a handy tube) on the aluminum pop rivets which come up to 3/16ths diameter. Of course, use the ones with the aluminum mandrel (pull pin). Silicone grease, or lancote, etc. act as a di-electric, and keep salt and moisture out of the connection. Meanwhile, the Fiberglas bandage has acted as a structural support on my mast. Before applying it make sure you have clean aluminum with no acid residue which can eat away the metal from the inside. You can also use some of that..I forget the name, but its not fiberglass..cloth which is stronger than fiberglass, has a slight tan/browish color, and is used to reinforce Mylar sails, or, heck, can you use carbon fiber? Woowie, you can tell folks you have one of them thar carbon fiber masties!! Jerry --- On Mon, 9/7/09, Michael Donoian <do… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: From: Michael Donoian <do… [at] yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, September 7, 2009, 7:48 AM I have been told , it is better to install a screw in unused holes , than leave them open .. Tap them to the thread size you can , install a good Stainless screw and leave it alone ... Now if you have a lot of holes where blocks were installed at the base , instead of a plate with holes ........ You have a problem .. I don't think the ace bandage wrap will do anything for strength for sure .... might look for collar matching duck tape ...... Or talk to a welder , step the mast , maybe weld or screw a sleeve inside . and up a ways .. just like a splice .. Wraps are for lunch .. duck tape is not a fix .... It may not be your ass that gets trashed when it comes down ... Fix it right the first time .. From: Gerald Sobel <sobel_solar@ yahoo.com> To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2009 10:46:17 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F Well, you can apply some silicone grease, lanicote, or similar, and pop rivet them closed too, probably stronger than just covering the holes. Or,... I wrapped the base of my mast in fiber glass cloth and west systems, like an ace bandage, so far, so good. It beats having all your standing rigging shortened and getting clobbered by the boom. OUch! Jerry --- On Sun, 9/6/09, mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> wrote: From: mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 7:46 PM I really don't know. My task is to stop further loss of mast substance and to keep as much integrety as i can, My Best, Mike --- On Sun, 9/6/09, Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> wrote: From: Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 2:40 PM Mike, Thanks for the caution on trying to weld the spars. The purpose of welding these holes closed is primarily to seal them off. The base end of the mast has lots of holes from a PO installing pad eyes & blocks.. Looking down inside boom under light is like Swiss cheese. None of the holes I want to close are intended to be re-drilled/tapped for fittings. So what are my options? Should I just epoxy close them with some light weight glass & resin? Opinions? Thanks, --Michael-- --- On Sun, 9/6/09, mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> wrote: From: mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 10:49 AM Many Cal masts were made with 6061-T6 alloy. I was told by my welder that welding this alloy will "turn it to butter" I repaired my mast holes with an alloy plate held by pop rivets and 5200 sealer. This has worked well for me., My Best, Mike --- On Sun, 9/6/09, Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> wrote: From: Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 4:17 AM All, Here is the link with updated photos from our mast rebuild project. http://www.flickr. . com/photos/ stefsail/ sets/72157622081 060993/ Yesterday, most of the paint was sanded off the mast. I still have one stubborn winch plate to remove. I guess it will need some heat applied to free the screws. FYI, I measured the mast wall thickness at 5/32". My brother-in-law has a welder that I plan to seal up a lot of no longer needed holes; suggestions are welcome. I completed installation of the mast step plate yesterday. Today, we will attack the spreaders, boom, and other miscellaneous items. We expect to receive the new sheaves in the mail on Tuesday. We are making an inventory of still needed blocks, deck organizers, and other hardware; input is welcome. I have two boxes of Awlgrip products to passivate. prime, and paint the spars. That stuff is pricey!!! Michael

Although fiberglass/epoxy is a legitimate way (though adds weight) to beef up a week spar when the aluminum is properly prepped, you should STAY AWAY from the CARBON FIBER as any contact however slight will explode with galvanic action and do way more harm them help. I like the aluminum pop-rivets idea better than screws -- here's why: I used (stainless, no less) pop rivets to mount my main sail track. White electrical tape between the stainless track and the painted mast and a heavy coat of Lanocote on the rivets. I replaced some of the pop rivets after about 4 years and saw no corrosion at all. I used tapped machine screws to mount some mast exit plates and they have corroded badly in the same period of time, though they were also Lanocoted. I surmise that screwing them in is an action that scuffs off the coating, where the pop rivets sealed in inside. HTH. Wilkie On Sep 7, 2009, at 10:07 AM, Gerald Sobel wrote: > > "I've been told?" > Michael, Stainless steel will rot aluminum. I"ve backed out > stainless screws from my aluminum mast and found jagged, thin walled > holes in the mast as an aftermath, but where I put silicone grease > on the screw before inserting it I didn't. Anytime you have dis- > similar metals, you get a galvanic reaction, as one metal is always > more "nobel" than the other. This can even happen with dis-similar > aluminum alloys, that's why I'd suggest putting silicone grease (you > can get it from any pool supply store..it comes in a handy tube) on > the aluminum pop rivets which come up to 3/16ths diameter. Of > course, use the ones with the aluminum mandrel (pull pin). Silicone > grease, or lancote, etc. act as a di-electric, and keep salt and > moisture out of the connection. > > Meanwhile, the Fiberglas bandage has acted as a structural support > on my mast. Before applying it make sure you have clean aluminum > with no acid residue which can eat away the metal from the inside. > You can also use some of that..I forget the name, but its not > fiberglass..cloth which is stronger than fiberglass, has a slight > tan/browish color, and is used to reinforce Mylar sails, or, heck, > can you use carbon fiber? Woowie, you can tell folks you have one of > them thar carbon fiber masties!! > Jerry > > --- On Mon, 9/7/09, Michael Donoian <do… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > > From: Michael Donoian <do… [at] yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > Date: Monday, September 7, 2009, 7:48 AM > > > > I have been told , it is better to install a screw in unused > holes , than leave them open .. Tap them to the thread size you > can , install a good Stainless screw and leave it alone ... Now if > you have a lot of holes where blocks were installed at the base , > instead of a plate with holes ........ You have a problem .. I > don't think the ace bandage wrap will do anything for strength for > sure .... might look for collar matching duck tape ...... > Or talk to a welder , step the mast , maybe weld or screw a > sleeve inside . and up a ways .. just like a splice .. Wraps > are for lunch .. duck tape is not a fix .... It may not be > your ass that gets trashed when it comes down ... Fix it right the > first time .. > > From: Gerald Sobel <sobel_solar@ yahoo.com> > To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com > Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2009 10:46:17 PM > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F > > > > Well, you can apply some silicone grease, lanicote, or similar, and > pop rivet them closed too, probably stronger than just covering the > holes. > > Or,... > > I wrapped the base of my mast in fiber glass cloth and west systems, > like an ace bandage, so far, so good. It beats having all your > standing rigging shortened and getting clobbered by the boom. OUch! > Jerry > > --- On Sun, 9/6/09, mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > > From: mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F > To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com > Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 7:46 PM > > > > I really don't know. My task is to stop further loss of mast > substance and to keep as much integrety as i can, > My Best, Mike > > --- On Sun, 9/6/09, Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com>wrote: > > From: Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F > To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com > Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 2:40 PM > > > > Mike, > > Thanks for the caution on trying to weld the spars. The purpose of > welding these holes closed is primarily to seal them off. The base > end of the mast has lots of holes from a PO installing pad eyes & > blocks.. Looking down inside boom under light is like Swiss > cheese. None of the holes I want to close are intended to be re- > drilled/tapped for fittings. > > So what are my options? Should I just epoxy close them with some > light weight glass & resin? Opinions? > > Thanks, > --Michael-- > > --- On Sun, 9/6/09, mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> wrote: > > From: mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F > To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com > Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 10:49 AM > > > Many Cal masts were made with 6061-T6 alloy. I was told by my > welder that welding this alloy will "turn it to butter" I repaired > my mast holes with an alloy plate held by pop rivets and 5200 > sealer. This has worked well for me., > My Best, Mike > > --- On Sun, 9/6/09, Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com>wrote: > > From: Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding > To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com > Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 4:17 AM > > > > All, > > Here is the link with updated photos from our mast rebuild project. http://www.flickr > . . com/photos/ stefsail/ sets/72157622081 060993/ > > Yesterday, most of the paint was sanded off the mast. I still have > one stubborn winch plate to remove. I guess it will need some heat > applied to free the screws. FYI, I measured the mast wall thickness > at 5/32". > > My brother-in-law has a welder that I plan to seal up a lot of no > longer needed holes; suggestions are welcome. I completed > installation of the mast step plate yesterday. Today, we will > attack the spreaders, boom, and other miscellaneous items. > > We expect to receive the new sheaves in the mail on Tuesday. We are > making an inventory of still needed blocks, deck organizers, and > other hardware; input is welcome. I have two boxes of Awlgrip > products to passivate. prime, and paint the spars. That stuff is > pricey!!! > > Michael > > > > > > > > > > >

David, You mean, we 'goin see them new 787 Dreamliners, wit dere plastic (I assumes dey usin' carbon fiber stuff) and alum-nim foos a laghiziz exploding all over the sky, and jet liner debris raining down on us all over dah place? I bet that will be a bonanza for them aluminum can recylers, and such. Well, I'll be! Maybe if you put on the fiberglas bandage foist, then sprinkle some charcoal dust (from your burnt labor day burgers you forgot U left on the grill) over it while the epoxy is still tacky, you kin still say "I got one of them thar carbon fiber mastyz!" Woooieee! I had the bitchin'ist time Saturday afternoon surfin' thru Hurricane Gulch (Pt. Fermin to Angel's Gate) yesterday doin' the "Outlaw Regatta", hittin' 10.7 knots (lotsa nines and tens) on my GPS. We had broached and torn up spinnaker PHRF boats all over the place, but not me!!. It was wild! I made it from Marina del Rey to the finish inside Los Alamitos Bay Marina in something like five hours and twenty one minutes...a new record for old Shpritz. Jerry 'lernin new stuff everyday, off the internet" --- On Mon, 9/7/09, DavidOwen <wi… [at] mariposasailing.com> wrote: From: DavidOwen <wi… [at] mariposasailing.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution (Michael) To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, September 7, 2009, 11:09 AM Although fiberglass/epoxy is a legitimate way (though adds weight) to beef up a week spar when the aluminum is properly prepped, you should STAY AWAY from the CARBON FIBER as any contact however slight will explode with galvanic action and do way more harm them help. I like the aluminum pop-rivets idea better than screws -- here's why: I used (stainless, no less) pop rivets to mount my main sail track. White electrical tape between the stainless track and the painted mast and a heavy coat of Lanocote on the rivets. I replaced some of the pop rivets after about 4 years and saw no corrosion at all. I used tapped machine screws to mount some mast exit plates and they have corroded badly in the same period of time, though they were also Lanocoted. I surmise that screwing them in is an action that scuffs off the coating, where the pop rivets sealed in inside. HTH. Wilkie On Sep 7, 2009, at 10:07 AM, Gerald Sobel wrote: "I've been told?" Michael, Stainless steel will rot aluminum. I"ve backed out stainless screws from my aluminum mast and found jagged, thin walled holes in the mast as an aftermath, but where I put silicone grease on the screw before inserting it I didn't. Anytime you have dis-similar metals, you get a galvanic reaction, as one metal is always more "nobel" than the other. This can even happen with dis-similar aluminum alloys, that's why I'd suggest putting silicone grease (you can get it from any pool supply store..it comes in a handy tube) on the aluminum pop rivets which come up to 3/16ths diameter. Of course, use the ones with the aluminum mandrel (pull pin). Silicone grease, or lancote, etc. act as a di-electric, and keep salt and moisture out of the connection. Meanwhile, the Fiberglas bandage has acted as a structural support on my mast. Before applying it make sure you have clean aluminum with no acid residue which can eat away the metal from the inside. You can also use some of that..I forget the name, but its not fiberglass.. cloth which is stronger than fiberglass, has a slight tan/browish color, and is used to reinforce Mylar sails, or, heck, can you use carbon fiber? Woowie, you can tell folks you have one of them thar carbon fiber masties!! Jerry --- On Mon, 9/7/09, Michael Donoian <donoianm@yahoo. com> wrote: From: Michael Donoian <donoianm@yahoo. com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Monday, September 7, 2009, 7:48 AM I have been told , it is better to install a screw in unused holes , than leave them open .. Tap them to the thread size you can , install a good Stainless screw and leave it alone ... Now if you have a lot of holes where blocks were installed at the base , instead of a plate with holes ........ You have a problem .. I don't think the ace bandage wrap will do anything for strength for sure .... might look for collar matching duck tape ...... Or talk to a welder , step the mast , maybe weld or screw a sleeve inside . and up a ways .. just like a splice .. Wraps are for lunch .. duck tape is not a fix .... It may not be your ass that gets trashed when it comes down ... Fix it right the first time .. From: Gerald Sobel <sobel_solar@ yahoo.com> To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2009 10:46:17 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F Well, you can apply some silicone grease, lanicote, or similar, and pop rivet them closed too, probably stronger than just covering the holes. Or,... I wrapped the base of my mast in fiber glass cloth and west systems, like an ace bandage, so far, so good. It beats having all your standing rigging shortened and getting clobbered by the boom. OUch! Jerry --- On Sun, 9/6/09, mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: From: mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 7:46 PM I really don't know. My task is to stop further loss of mast substance and to keep as much integrety as i can, My Best, Mike --- On Sun, 9/6/09, Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com>wrote: From: Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 2:40 PM Mike, Thanks for the caution on trying to weld the spars. The purpose of welding these holes closed is primarily to seal them off. The base end of the mast has lots of holes from a PO installing pad eyes & blocks.. Looking down inside boom under light is like Swiss cheese. None of the holes I want to close are intended to be re-drilled/tapped for fittings. So what are my options? Should I just epoxy close them with some light weight glass & resin? Opinions? Thanks, --Michael-- --- On Sun, 9/6/09, mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> wrote: From: mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 10:49 AM Many Cal masts were made with 6061-T6 alloy. I was told by my welder that welding this alloy will "turn it to butter" I repaired my mast holes with an alloy plate held by pop rivets and 5200 sealer. This has worked well for me., My Best, Mike --- On Sun, 9/6/09, Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com>wrote: From: Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 4:17 AM All, Here is the link with updated photos from our mast rebuild project. http://www.flickr. . com/photos/ stefsail/ sets/72157622081 060993/ Yesterday, most of the paint was sanded off the mast. I still have one stubborn winch plate to remove. I guess it will need some heat applied to free the screws. FYI, I measured the mast wall thickness at 5/32". My brother-in-law has a welder that I plan to seal up a lot of no longer needed holes; suggestions are welcome. I completed installation of the mast step plate yesterday. Today, we will attack the spreaders, boom, and other miscellaneous items. We expect to receive the new sheaves in the mail on Tuesday. We are making an inventory of still needed blocks, deck organizers, and other hardware; input is welcome. I have two boxes of Awlgrip products to passivate. prime, and paint the spars. That stuff is pricey!!! Michael

David, you mean white plumbers' thread tape, teflon tape, not elecrical tape, don't you? It also works good on threads of bolts to prevent them from unwinding from viabration, like on my outboard scissors bracket...which unfortunately is about had it from the bolt threads cutting thru the quarter inch aluminum bracket parts..gotta fix it before my poor outboard becomes an overboard. But at least the half inch nuts aren't coming off the bolt ends like they wuz. Jerry --- On Mon, 9/7/09, DavidOwen <wi… [at] mariposasailing.com> wrote: From: DavidOwen <wi… [at] mariposasailing.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution (Michael) To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, September 7, 2009, 11:09 AM Although fiberglass/epoxy is a legitimate way (though adds weight) to beef up a week spar when the aluminum is properly prepped, you should STAY AWAY from the CARBON FIBER as any contact however slight will explode with galvanic action and do way more harm them help. I like the aluminum pop-rivets idea better than screws -- here's why: I used (stainless, no less) pop rivets to mount my main sail track. White electrical tape between the stainless track and the painted mast and a heavy coat of Lanocote on the rivets. I replaced some of the pop rivets after about 4 years and saw no corrosion at all. I used tapped machine screws to mount some mast exit plates and they have corroded badly in the same period of time, though they were also Lanocoted. I surmise that screwing them in is an action that scuffs off the coating, where the pop rivets sealed in inside. HTH. Wilkie On Sep 7, 2009, at 10:07 AM, Gerald Sobel wrote: "I've been told?" Michael, Stainless steel will rot aluminum. I"ve backed out stainless screws from my aluminum mast and found jagged, thin walled holes in the mast as an aftermath, but where I put silicone grease on the screw before inserting it I didn't. Anytime you have dis-similar metals, you get a galvanic reaction, as one metal is always more "nobel" than the other. This can even happen with dis-similar aluminum alloys, that's why I'd suggest putting silicone grease (you can get it from any pool supply store..it comes in a handy tube) on the aluminum pop rivets which come up to 3/16ths diameter. Of course, use the ones with the aluminum mandrel (pull pin). Silicone grease, or lancote, etc. act as a di-electric, and keep salt and moisture out of the connection. Meanwhile, the Fiberglas bandage has acted as a structural support on my mast. Before applying it make sure you have clean aluminum with no acid residue which can eat away the metal from the inside. You can also use some of that..I forget the name, but its not fiberglass.. cloth which is stronger than fiberglass, has a slight tan/browish color, and is used to reinforce Mylar sails, or, heck, can you use carbon fiber? Woowie, you can tell folks you have one of them thar carbon fiber masties!! Jerry --- On Mon, 9/7/09, Michael Donoian <donoianm@yahoo. com> wrote: From: Michael Donoian <donoianm@yahoo. com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Monday, September 7, 2009, 7:48 AM I have been told , it is better to install a screw in unused holes , than leave them open .. Tap them to the thread size you can , install a good Stainless screw and leave it alone ... Now if you have a lot of holes where blocks were installed at the base , instead of a plate with holes ........ You have a problem .. I don't think the ace bandage wrap will do anything for strength for sure .... might look for collar matching duck tape ...... Or talk to a welder , step the mast , maybe weld or screw a sleeve inside . and up a ways .. just like a splice .. Wraps are for lunch .. duck tape is not a fix .... It may not be your ass that gets trashed when it comes down ... Fix it right the first time .. From: Gerald Sobel <sobel_solar@ yahoo.com> To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2009 10:46:17 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F Well, you can apply some silicone grease, lanicote, or similar, and pop rivet them closed too, probably stronger than just covering the holes. Or,... I wrapped the base of my mast in fiber glass cloth and west systems, like an ace bandage, so far, so good. It beats having all your standing rigging shortened and getting clobbered by the boom. OUch! Jerry --- On Sun, 9/6/09, mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: From: mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 7:46 PM I really don't know. My task is to stop further loss of mast substance and to keep as much integrety as i can, My Best, Mike --- On Sun, 9/6/09, Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com>wrote: From: Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 2:40 PM Mike, Thanks for the caution on trying to weld the spars. The purpose of welding these holes closed is primarily to seal them off. The base end of the mast has lots of holes from a PO installing pad eyes & blocks.. Looking down inside boom under light is like Swiss cheese. None of the holes I want to close are intended to be re-drilled/tapped for fittings. So what are my options? Should I just epoxy close them with some light weight glass & resin? Opinions? Thanks, --Michael-- --- On Sun, 9/6/09, mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> wrote: From: mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 10:49 AM Many Cal masts were made with 6061-T6 alloy. I was told by my welder that welding this alloy will "turn it to butter" I repaired my mast holes with an alloy plate held by pop rivets and 5200 sealer. This has worked well for me., My Best, Mike --- On Sun, 9/6/09, Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com>wrote: From: Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 4:17 AM All, Here is the link with updated photos from our mast rebuild project. http://www.flickr. . com/photos/ stefsail/ sets/72157622081 060993/ Yesterday, most of the paint was sanded off the mast. I still have one stubborn winch plate to remove. I guess it will need some heat applied to free the screws. FYI, I measured the mast wall thickness at 5/32". My brother-in-law has a welder that I plan to seal up a lot of no longer needed holes; suggestions are welcome. I completed installation of the mast step plate yesterday. Today, we will attack the spreaders, boom, and other miscellaneous items. We expect to receive the new sheaves in the mail on Tuesday. We are making an inventory of still needed blocks, deck organizers, and other hardware; input is welcome. I have two boxes of Awlgrip products to passivate. prime, and paint the spars. That stuff is pricey!!! Michael

I believe you mean Kevlar,Tap plastics sells it and I have used it to strengthen whippy spinnakerpoles. It works. My best, Mike Farrell cal20 Rambler hull # 1114 & Argo hull # 471 --- On Mon, 9/7/09, Gerald Sobel <so… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: From: Gerald Sobel <so… [at] yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution (Michael) To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, September 7, 2009, 10:07 AM "I've been told?" Michael, Stainless steel will rot aluminum. I"ve backed out stainless screws from my aluminum mast and found jagged, thin walled holes in the mast as an aftermath, but where I put silicone grease on the screw before inserting it I didn't. Anytime you have dis-similar metals, you get a galvanic reaction, as one metal is always more "nobel" than the other. This can even happen with dis-similar aluminum alloys, that's why I'd suggest putting silicone grease (you can get it from any pool supply store..it comes in a handy tube) on the aluminum pop rivets which come up to 3/16ths diameter. Of course, use the ones with the aluminum mandrel (pull pin). Silicone grease, or lancote, etc. act as a di-electric, and keep salt and moisture out of the connection. Meanwhile, the Fiberglas bandage has acted as a structural support on my mast. Before applying it make sure you have clean aluminum with no acid residue which can eat away the metal from the inside. You can also use some of that..I forget the name, but its not fiberglass..cloth which is stronger than fiberglass, has a slight tan/browish color, and is used to reinforce Mylar sails, or, heck, can you use carbon fiber? Woowie, you can tell folks you have one of them thar carbon fiber masties!! Jerry --- On Mon, 9/7/09, Michael Donoian <do… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: From: Michael Donoian <do… [at] yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, September 7, 2009, 7:48 AM I have been told , it is better to install a screw in unused holes , than leave them open .. Tap them to the thread size you can , install a good Stainless screw and leave it alone ... Now if you have a lot of holes where blocks were installed at the base , instead of a plate with holes ........ You have a problem .. I don't think the ace bandage wrap will do anything for strength for sure .... might look for collar matching duck tape ...... Or talk to a welder , step the mast , maybe weld or screw a sleeve inside . and up a ways .. just like a splice .. Wraps are for lunch .. duck tape is not a fix .... It may not be your ass that gets trashed when it comes down ... Fix it right the first time .. From: Gerald Sobel <sobel_solar@ yahoo.com> To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2009 10:46:17 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F Well, you can apply some silicone grease, lanicote, or similar, and pop rivet them closed too, probably stronger than just covering the holes. Or,... I wrapped the base of my mast in fiber glass cloth and west systems, like an ace bandage, so far, so good. It beats having all your standing rigging shortened and getting clobbered by the boom. OUch! Jerry --- On Sun, 9/6/09, mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> wrote: From: mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 7:46 PM I really don't know. My task is to stop further loss of mast substance and to keep as much integrety as i can, My Best, Mike --- On Sun, 9/6/09, Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> wrote: From: Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 2:40 PM Mike, Thanks for the caution on trying to weld the spars. The purpose of welding these holes closed is primarily to seal them off. The base end of the mast has lots of holes from a PO installing pad eyes & blocks.. Looking down inside boom under light is like Swiss cheese. None of the holes I want to close are intended to be re-drilled/tapped for fittings. So what are my options? Should I just epoxy close them with some light weight glass & resin? Opinions? Thanks, --Michael-- --- On Sun, 9/6/09, mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> wrote: From: mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 10:49 AM Many Cal masts were made with 6061-T6 alloy. I was told by my welder that welding this alloy will "turn it to butter" I repaired my mast holes with an alloy plate held by pop rivets and 5200 sealer. This has worked well for me., My Best, Mike --- On Sun, 9/6/09, Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> wrote: From: Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 4:17 AM All, Here is the link with updated photos from our mast rebuild project. http://www.flickr. . com/photos/ stefsail/ sets/72157622081 060993/ Yesterday, most of the paint was sanded off the mast. I still have one stubborn winch plate to remove. I guess it will need some heat applied to free the screws. FYI, I measured the mast wall thickness at 5/32". My brother-in-law has a welder that I plan to seal up a lot of no longer needed holes; suggestions are welcome. I completed installation of the mast step plate yesterday. Today, we will attack the spreaders, boom, and other miscellaneous items. We expect to receive the new sheaves in the mail on Tuesday. We are making an inventory of still needed blocks, deck organizers, and other hardware; input is welcome. I have two boxes of Awlgrip products to passivate. prime, and paint the spars. That stuff is pricey!!! Michael

Mike, That's it Mike, Kevlar. I was having an extended 'seniour momento'. Kevlar. Good for bullet proof helmets, good for as I recall, tires, before they went to steel belts. Put a belt of Kevlar and epoxy on your mast bottom, and, as Richard Crumb used to say, "Keep on Sailin'!" He did say that, didn't he? Well, that was before wearing big toed combat boots on the decks of yachts made him unpopular with the sailing crowd...but, there I go again, off on another tack. Jerry --- On Mon, 9/7/09, mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: From: mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution (Michael) To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, September 7, 2009, 5:33 PM I believe you mean Kevlar,Tap plastics sells it and I have used it to strengthen whippy spinnakerpoles. It works. My best, Mike Farrell cal20 Rambler hull # 1114 & Argo hull # 471 --- On Mon, 9/7/09, Gerald Sobel <sobel_solar@ yahoo.com> wrote: From: Gerald Sobel <sobel_solar@ yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution (Michael) To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Monday, September 7, 2009, 10:07 AM "I've been told?" Michael, Stainless steel will rot aluminum. I"ve backed out stainless screws from my aluminum mast and found jagged, thin walled holes in the mast as an aftermath, but where I put silicone grease on the screw before inserting it I didn't. Anytime you have dis-similar metals, you get a galvanic reaction, as one metal is always more "nobel" than the other. This can even happen with dis-similar aluminum alloys, that's why I'd suggest putting silicone grease (you can get it from any pool supply store..it comes in a handy tube) on the aluminum pop rivets which come up to 3/16ths diameter. Of course, use the ones with the aluminum mandrel (pull pin). Silicone grease, or lancote, etc. act as a di-electric, and keep salt and moisture out of the connection. Meanwhile, the Fiberglas bandage has acted as a structural support on my mast. Before applying it make sure you have clean aluminum with no acid residue which can eat away the metal from the inside. You can also use some of that..I forget the name, but its not fiberglass.. cloth which is stronger than fiberglass, has a slight tan/browish color, and is used to reinforce Mylar sails, or, heck, can you use carbon fiber? Woowie, you can tell folks you have one of them thar carbon fiber masties!! Jerry --- On Mon, 9/7/09, Michael Donoian <donoianm@yahoo. com> wrote: From: Michael Donoian <donoianm@yahoo. com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Monday, September 7, 2009, 7:48 AM I have been told , it is better to install a screw in unused holes , than leave them open .. Tap them to the thread size you can , install a good Stainless screw and leave it alone ... Now if you have a lot of holes where blocks were installed at the base , instead of a plate with holes ........ You have a problem .. I don't think the ace bandage wrap will do anything for strength for sure .... might look for collar matching duck tape ...... Or talk to a welder , step the mast , maybe weld or screw a sleeve inside . and up a ways .. just like a splice .. Wraps are for lunch .. duck tape is not a fix .... It may not be your ass that gets trashed when it comes down ... Fix it right the first time .. From: Gerald Sobel <sobel_solar@ yahoo.com> To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2009 10:46:17 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F Well, you can apply some silicone grease, lanicote, or similar, and pop rivet them closed too, probably stronger than just covering the holes. Or,... I wrapped the base of my mast in fiber glass cloth and west systems, like an ace bandage, so far, so good. It beats having all your standing rigging shortened and getting clobbered by the boom. OUch! Jerry --- On Sun, 9/6/09, mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> wrote: From: mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 7:46 PM I really don't know. My task is to stop further loss of mast substance and to keep as much integrety as i can, My Best, Mike --- On Sun, 9/6/09, Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> wrote: From: Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 2:40 PM Mike, Thanks for the caution on trying to weld the spars. The purpose of welding these holes closed is primarily to seal them off. The base end of the mast has lots of holes from a PO installing pad eyes & blocks.. Looking down inside boom under light is like Swiss cheese. None of the holes I want to close are intended to be re-drilled/tapped for fittings. So what are my options? Should I just epoxy close them with some light weight glass & resin? Opinions? Thanks, --Michael-- --- On Sun, 9/6/09, mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> wrote: From: mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 10:49 AM Many Cal masts were made with 6061-T6 alloy. I was told by my welder that welding this alloy will "turn it to butter" I repaired my mast holes with an alloy plate held by pop rivets and 5200 sealer. This has worked well for me., My Best, Mike --- On Sun, 9/6/09, Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> wrote: From: Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 4:17 AM All, Here is the link with updated photos from our mast rebuild project. http://www.flickr. . com/photos/ stefsail/ sets/72157622081 060993/ Yesterday, most of the paint was sanded off the mast. I still have one stubborn winch plate to remove. I guess it will need some heat applied to free the screws. FYI, I measured the mast wall thickness at 5/32". My brother-in-law has a welder that I plan to seal up a lot of no longer needed holes; suggestions are welcome. I completed installation of the mast step plate yesterday. Today, we will attack the spreaders, boom, and other miscellaneous items. We expect to receive the new sheaves in the mail on Tuesday. We are making an inventory of still needed blocks, deck organizers, and other hardware; input is welcome. I have two boxes of Awlgrip products to passivate. prime, and paint the spars. That stuff is pricey!!! Michael

All, I'm looking for recommended connectors for the mast power wiring and VHF coax inside the base of the mast. My thinking is to bring the cables up through the mast step plate about one foot and install sockets. The mast will be independently wired with it's cables terminated in the base with plugs. When the mast goes back up, just prior to setting it on the mast step, I can plug the cables together. For those that step their mast annually, how do you deal with your mast power cables and VHF coax? Thanks to everyone for all of your input. We have worked our butts off the entire Labor Day Weekend. I'll be real glad when this project is completed! Michael

All, I found a photo along the lines of what I'm thinking of using. Take a look at this http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=10180&familyName=Cole+Hersee+Trailer+Plugs+and+Sockets This is probably not exactly I'd prefer to use but similar. I'd prefer connectors with solder terminals and screw-together for sealing against the elements. I plan to run two 3-conductor cables up the mast. One cable will be for the tri-color/anchor lights. The other will be for the steaming/deck lights. An RG-8X male/female connector will be used for the VHF: make/model TBD. Michael

also could use setscrews with locktite to avoid heads of screws protruding on outside Reggie To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: do… [at] yahoo.com Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2009 07:48:30 -0700 Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F I have been told , it is better to install a screw in unused holes , than leave them open .. Tap them to the thread size you can , install a good Stainless screw and leave it alone ... Now if you have a lot of holes where blocks were installed at the base , instead of a plate with holes ........ You have a problem .. I don't think the ace bandage wrap will do anything for strength for sure .... might look for collar matching duck tape ...... Or talk to a welder , step the mast , maybe weld or screw a sleeve inside . and up a ways .. just like a splice .. Wraps are for lunch .. duck tape is not a fix .... It may not be your ass that gets trashed when it comes down ... Fix it right the first time .. From: Gerald Sobel <so… [at] yahoo.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2009 10:46:17 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F Well, you can apply some silicone grease, lanicote, or similar, and pop rivet them closed too, probably stronger than just covering the holes. Or,... I wrapped the base of my mast in fiber glass cloth and west systems, like an ace bandage, so far, so good. It beats having all your standing rigging shortened and getting clobbered by the boom. OUch! Jerry --- On Sun, 9/6/09, mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> wrote: From: mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 7:46 PM I really don't know. My task is to stop further loss of mast substance and to keep as much integrety as i can, My Best, Mike --- On Sun, 9/6/09, Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> wrote: From: Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 2:40 PM Mike, Thanks for the caution on trying to weld the spars. The purpose of welding these holes closed is primarily to seal them off. The base end of the mast has lots of holes from a PO installing pad eyes & blocks.. Looking down inside boom under light is like Swiss cheese. None of the holes I want to close are intended to be re-drilled/tapped for fittings. So what are my options? Should I just epoxy close them with some light weight glass & resin? Opinions? Thanks, --Michael-- --- On Sun, 9/6/09, mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> wrote: From: mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 10:49 AM Many Cal masts were made with 6061-T6 alloy. I was told by my welder that welding this alloy will "turn it to butter" I repaired my mast holes with an alloy plate held by pop rivets and 5200 sealer. This has worked well for me., My Best, Mike --- On Sun, 9/6/09, Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> wrote: From: Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 4:17 AM All, Here is the link with updated photos from our mast rebuild project. http://www.flickr.. com/photos/ stefsail/ sets/72157622081 060993/ Yesterday, most of the paint was sanded off the mast. I still have one stubborn winch plate to remove. I guess it will need some heat applied to free the screws. FYI, I measured the mast wall thickness at 5/32". My brother-in-law has a welder that I plan to seal up a lot of no longer needed holes; suggestions are welcome. I completed installation of the mast step plate yesterday. Today, we will attack the spreaders, boom, and other miscellaneous items. We expect to receive the new sheaves in the mail on Tuesday. We are making an inventory of still needed blocks, deck organizers, and other hardware; input is welcome. I have two boxes of Awlgrip products to passivate. prime, and paint the spars. That stuff is pricey!!! Michael

Michael, When I replaced my mast wiring, I used one male and female Amphenol Mil spec series 97 connectors from Mouser Electronics (www.mouser.com) at the mast step. They are solder cup type, and have many different sizes, shells, pin arrangements, and accessories (caps, seals, strain reliefs, etc). I have been more than satisfied with the service from Mouser. The Amphenol connectors are reliable, and no problems in the last 5 years since installation. I unstep the mast every fall. I use dielectric grease on the pins before mating on restepping. Note: I bought a larger connector, in case I wanted to add more wiring, and I filled the back of both plug and receptacle with silicone sealant for additional weatherproofing. I hope this helps... Dave Leasia '72 cal 27 p-t #145 s/v Candycane Grosse Pointe Farms, MI --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, Michael D <mddfl@...> wrote: > > All, > > I found a photo along the lines of what I'm thinking of using. Take a look at this http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=10180&familyName=Cole+Hersee+Trailer+Plugs+and+Sockets This is probably not exactly I'd prefer to use but similar. I'd prefer connectors with solder terminals and screw-together for sealing against the elements. > > I plan to run two 3-conductor cables up the mast. One cable will be for the tri-color/anchor lights. The other will be for the steaming/deck lights. > > An RG-8X male/female connector will be used for the VHF: make/model TBD. > > Michael >

Hi Guys, Thanks for your input. I'll look into some connectors from Mouser.Com. A mast access plate is shown at http://www.rigrite.com/spars/Rig-Rite_Spars/RR-8_Mast.html. I assume I won't severely impact the integrity of the mast by cutting a 3" x 1 1/4" vertical slot in the side of the mast. Opinions??? --Michael--

I use an approach similar to what you are describing and I hate it. First there is always the concern of getting your fingers caught by a rising boat or a falling mast. Second there is constant fear that something will come apart so we add tape to the connection joint. Third no matter how carefully you tuck those wires into the mast they always seem to try to get out and get pinched between the mast and the step. Finally something always seems to go wrong with one of the lights and you can't get to the connector. Each year I think about installing an access plate available from Kenyon or lefeil which would allow you to remove the plate and connect/ unconnected the cables with the mast up. ...Maybe this winter John B. _____ From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Michael D Sent: Monday, September 07, 2009 8:54 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mast Wiring & Connectors All, I'm looking for recommended connectors for the mast power wiring and VHF coax inside the base of the mast. My thinking is to bring the cables up through the mast step plate about one foot and install sockets. The mast will be independently wired with it's cables terminated in the base with plugs. When the mast goes back up, just prior to setting it on the mast step, I can plug the cables together. For those that step their mast annually, how do you deal with your mast power cables and VHF coax? Thanks to everyone for all of your input. We have worked our butts off the entire Labor Day Weekend. I'll be real glad when this project is completed! Michael

Put the antenna on the stern and not at the top of the mast. Then if you get dismasted, you can call for help.Visit a local HAM radio swap meet and get a 2-meter J-pole antenna. Allen On Mon, Sep 7, 2009 at 6:53 PM, Michael D <md… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > > > All, > > I'm looking for recommended connectors for the mast power wiring and VHF > coax inside the base of the mast. My thinking is to bring the cables up > through the mast step plate about one foot and install sockets. The mast > will be independently wired with it's cables terminated in the base with > plugs. When the mast goes back up, just prior to setting it on the mast > step, I can plug the cables together. > > For those that step their mast annually, how do you deal with your mast > power cables and VHF coax? > > Thanks to everyone for all of your input. We have worked our butts off the > entire Labor Day Weekend. I'll be real glad when this project is completed! > > Michael > > >

When applying epoxy and fiberglass or Kevlar to aluminum you have two choices. 1) Apply the wet epoxy and sand with wet dry sand paper through the wet epoxy. 2) Alodine the aluminum and then apply the epoxy in a more normal way. If you just clean the aluminum then apply the epoxy, you will be trying to stick to aluminum oxide, which won't work. Aluminum will oxidize immediately, you can't clean it and apply the epoxy fast enough. Allen On Mon, Sep 7, 2009 at 6:48 PM, Gerald Sobel <so… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > > > Mike, > That's it Mike, Kevlar. I was having an extended 'seniour momento'. Kevlar. > Good for bullet proof helmets, good for as I recall, tires, before they went > to steel belts. Put a belt of Kevlar and epoxy on your mast bottom, and, as > Richard Crumb used to say, "Keep on Sailin'!" He did say that, didn't he? > Well, that was before wearing big toed combat boots on the decks of yachts > made him unpopular with the sailing crowd...but, there I go again, off on > another tack. > Jerry > > --- On *Mon, 9/7/09, mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com>* wrote: > > > From: mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution (Michael) > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > Date: Monday, September 7, 2009, 5:33 PM > > > > I believe you mean Kevlar,Tap plastics sells it and I have used it to > strengthen whippy spinnakerpoles. It works. > My best, Mike Farrell cal20 Rambler hull # 1114 & Argo hull > # 471 > > --- On *Mon, 9/7/09, Gerald Sobel <sobel_solar@ yahoo.com>* wrote: > > > From: Gerald Sobel <sobel_solar@ yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution (Michael) > To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com > Date: Monday, September 7, 2009, 10:07 AM > > > > "I've been told?" > Michael, Stainless steel will rot aluminum. I"ve backed out stainless > screws from my aluminum mast and found jagged, thin walled holes in the mast > as an aftermath, but where I put silicone grease on the screw before > inserting it I didn't. Anytime you have dis-similar metals, you get a > galvanic reaction, as one metal is always more "nobel" than the other. This > can even happen with dis-similar aluminum alloys, that's why I'd suggest > putting silicone grease (you can get it from any pool supply store..it comes > in a handy tube) on the aluminum pop rivets which come up to 3/16ths > diameter. Of course, use the ones with the aluminum mandrel (pull pin). > Silicone grease, or lancote, etc. act as a di-electric, and keep salt and > moisture out of the connection. > > Meanwhile, the Fiberglas bandage has acted as a structural support on my > mast. Before applying it make sure you have clean aluminum with no acid > residue which can eat away the metal from the inside. You can also use some > of that..I forget the name, but its not fiberglass.. cloth which is stronger > than fiberglass, has a slight tan/browish color, and is used to reinforce > Mylar sails, or, heck, can you use carbon fiber? Woowie, you can tell folks > you have one of them thar carbon fiber masties!! > Jerry > > --- On *Mon, 9/7/09, Michael Donoian <donoianm@yahoo. com>* wrote: > > > From: Michael Donoian <donoianm@yahoo. com> > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F > To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com > Date: Monday, September 7, 2009, 7:48 AM > > > I have been told , it is better to install a screw in unused holes , > than leave them open .. Tap them to the thread size you can , install a > good Stainless screw and leave it alone ... Now if you have a lot of holes > where blocks were installed at the base , instead of a plate with holes > ........ You have a problem .. I don't think the ace bandage wrap will do > anything for strength for sure .... might look for collar matching duck > tape ...... > Or talk to a welder , step the mast , maybe weld or screw a sleeve > inside . and up a ways .. just like a splice .. Wraps are for lunch > .. duck tape is not a fix .... It may not be your ass that gets > trashed when it comes down ... Fix it right the first time .. > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Gerald Sobel <sobel_solar@ yahoo.com> > *To:* Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com > *Sent:* Sunday, September 6, 2009 10:46:17 PM > *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F > > Well, you can apply some silicone grease, lanicote, or similar, and > pop rivet them closed too, probably stronger than just covering the holes. > > Or,... > > I wrapped the base of my mast in fiber glass cloth and west systems, like > an ace bandage, so far, so good. It beats having all your standing rigging > shortened and getting clobbered by the boom. OUch! > Jerry > > --- On *Sun, 9/6/09, mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com>* wrote: > > > From: mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F > To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com > Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 7:46 PM > > I really don't know. My task is to stop further loss of mast > substance and to keep as much integrety as i can, > My Best, Mike > > --- On *Sun, 9/6/09, Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com>* wrote: > > > From: Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F > To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com > Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 2:40 PM > > > > Mike, > > Thanks for the caution on trying to weld the spars. The purpose of welding > these holes closed is primarily to seal them off. The base end of the mast > has lots of holes from a PO installing pad eyes & blocks.. Looking down > inside boom under light is like Swiss cheese. None of the holes I want to > close are intended to be re-drilled/tapped for fittings. > > So what are my options? Should I just epoxy close them with some light > weight glass & resin? Opinions? > > Thanks, > --Michael-- > > --- On *Sun, 9/6/09, mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com>* wrote: > > > From: mike farrell <vectormenow@ yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding, caution, Mike F > To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com > Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 10:49 AM > > Many Cal masts were made with 6061-T6 alloy. I was told by my welder > that welding this alloy will "turn it to butter" I repaired my mast holes > with an alloy plate held by pop rivets and 5200 sealer. This has worked well > for me., > My Best, Mike > > --- On *Sun, 9/6/09, Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com>* wrote: > > > From: Michael D <mddfl@yahoo. com> > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuilding > To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com > Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 4:17 AM > > > > All, > > Here is the link with updated photos from our mast rebuild project. http://www.flickr. > . com/photos/ stefsail/ sets/72157622081 060993/<http://www.flickr.com/photos/stefsail/sets/72157622081060993/> > > Yesterday, most of the paint was sanded off the mast. I still have one > stubborn winch plate to remove. I guess it will need some heat applied to > free the screws. FYI, I measured the mast wall thickness at 5/32". > > My brother-in-law has a welder that I plan to seal up a lot of no longer > needed holes; suggestions are welcome. I completed installation of the mast > step plate yesterday. Today, we will attack the spreaders, boom, and other > miscellaneous items. > > We expect to receive the new sheaves in the mail on Tuesday. We are making > an inventory of still needed blocks, deck organizers, and other hardware; > input is welcome. I have two boxes of Awlgrip products to passivate. prime, > and paint the spars. That stuff is pricey!!! > > Michael > > > > > > > > > >

John (and Michael), First, the connectors screw together, so there is no worry concerning separation of connectors. (Tape will hold water in). Second, I use a bungee cord attached to a screw thread inside the mast, up about a foot from the butt of the mast and also attached to my connector and VHF cable. The cord is short enough to pull the whole assembly above the step when the mast is set down. I always have a foot or more clearance between the step and the mast while connecting things, and never had a problem with moving mast or boat to cause any crush concerns. Removing the mast stretches the cord enough to allow disconnection of both connectors (lighting and VHF) with the mast well clear of the step. I wouldn't cut any holes in my old 34' mast! I hope this clarifies how I did things.. Dave Leasia '72 cal 27 p-t #145 s/v Candy Cane Grosse Pointe Farms, MI --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, Michael D <mddfl@...> wrote: > > Hi Guys, > > Thanks for your input. I'll look into some connectors from Mouser.Com. A mast access plate is shown at http://www.rigrite.com/spars/Rig-Rite_Spars/RR-8_Mast.html. I assume I won't severely impact the integrity of the mast by cutting a 3" x 1 1/4" vertical slot in the side of the > mast. Opinions??? > > --Michael-- >

Hello All I would not cut any large holes in the mast why weaken it? Scott 1976 2-29 --- On Tue, 9/8/09, telephone_dr <te… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: From: telephone_dr <te… [at] yahoo.com> Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: Mast Wiring & pinching To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Tuesday, September 8, 2009, 7:40 PM John (and Michael), First, the connectors screw together, so there is no worry concerning separation of connectors. (Tape will hold water in). Second, I use a bungee cord attached to a screw thread inside the mast, up about a foot from the butt of the mast and also attached to my connector and VHF cable. The cord is short enough to pull the whole assembly above the step when the mast is set down. I always have a foot or more clearance between the step and the mast while connecting things, and never had a problem with moving mast or boat to cause any crush concerns. Removing the mast stretches the cord enough to allow disconnection of both connectors (lighting and VHF) with the mast well clear of the step. I wouldn't cut any holes in my old 34' mast! I hope this clarifies how I did things.. Dave Leasia '72 cal 27 p-t #145 s/v Candy Cane Grosse Pointe Farms, MI --- In Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com, Michael D <mddfl@...> wrote: > > Hi Guys, > > Thanks for your input. I'll look into some connectors from Mouser.Com. A mast access plate is shown at http://www.rigrite. com/spars/ Rig-Rite_ Spars/RR- 8_Mast.html. I assume I won't severely impact the integrity of the mast by cutting a 3" x 1 1/4" vertical slot in the side of the > mast. Opinions??? > > --Michael-- >

Allen, I carry an emergency VHF antenna (in a tube)just in case (Shakespeare, from West Marine and elsewhere). Many racing organizations now require carrying an emergency antenna (as well as a handheld radio). The top of the mast gives the best range, as well as best Signal to Noise ratio. Use the largest coax (RG-8X or RG-213) you can (afford), to reduce signal loss. Dave Leasia '72 cal 27 p-t #145 s/v Candy Cane Grosse Pointe Farms, MI --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, Allen Edwards <allen.edwards@...> wrote: > > Put the antenna on the stern and not at the top of the mast. Then if you > get dismasted, you can call for help.Visit a local HAM radio swap meet and > get a 2-meter J-pole antenna. > > Allen >

My belief is that over water, having the antenna near the water gives the best range. Over land, you want height for range but water is conductive and radio waves will bend if launched low and parallel to the surface. Launched high, they will reflect and cannot follow the curve of the earth. Anyway, that is what my dad always told me and as a HAM and a EE, it makes since to me. The other issue is that an antenna has two elements and the dimensions of each element are critical. On a car, you can use a little whip antenna and the metal surface of the roof will act like a mirror and reflect the dimensions of the whip so you have a good antenna. I have no idea what kind of pattern you would get with a whip on top of a big pole (mast). I guess you can use a more complex antenna than a whip and get a good SWR and pattern. A J-pole is self contained and does not need any ground reference, another reason I like it. It is a folded dipole so inherently has both elements. Anyway, just a suggestion. Allen On Tue, Sep 8, 2009 at 7:55 PM, telephone_dr <te… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > > > Allen, > > I carry an emergency VHF antenna (in a tube)just in case (Shakespeare, from > West Marine and elsewhere). Many racing organizations now require carrying > an emergency antenna (as well as a handheld radio). > > The top of the mast gives the best range, as well as best Signal to Noise > ratio. Use the largest coax (RG-8X or RG-213) you can (afford), to reduce > signal loss. > > Dave Leasia > '72 cal 27 p-t #145 > s/v Candy Cane > Grosse Pointe Farms, MI > > --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com>, Allen > Edwards <allen.edwards@...> wrote: > > > > Put the antenna on the stern and not at the top of the mast. Then if you > > get dismasted, you can call for help.Visit a local HAM radio swap meet > and > > get a 2-meter J-pole antenna. > > > > Allen > > > > >

John, I agree about the cables tending to get caught under the mast, happened to me this spring and I didn't notice it until I was almost through tightening the rig. I looked at the mast, and it seemed not perpendicular, and I examined it more closely, and sure enough, there was a cable under the mast. Back to the gin pole, loosen the rig, raise the mast enough to stuff the cable back where it belongs. It's a pain. I like the idea of the bungee keeping tension on the cables, I don't like the idea of making an access hole in the mast. I think Allen may be right about better VHF performance with a stern mounted antenna, I think I read an article in Good Old Boat, but my memory isn't what it was. Regards, David Dobbs, Cal29 411 --- On Tue, 9/8/09, John Boyce <je… [at] gmail.com> wrote: From: John Boyce <je… [at] gmail.com> Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] Mast Wiring & Connectors To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Tuesday, September 8, 2009, 4:11 PM I use an approach similar to what you are describing and I hate it. First there is always the concern of getting your fingers caught by a rising boat or a falling mast. Second there is constant fear that something will come apart so we add tape to the connection joint. Third no matter how carefully you tuck those wires into the mast they always seem to try to get out and get pinched between the mast and the step. Finally something always seems to go wrong with one of the lights and you can't get to the connector. Each year I think about installing an access plate available from Kenyon or lefeil which would allow you to remove the plate and connect/ unconnected the cables with the mast up. ...Maybe this winter John B. From: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com [mailto:Cal_ Boats@yahoogroup s.com] On Behalf Of Michael D Sent: Monday, September 07, 2009 8:54 PM To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mast Wiring & Connectors All, I'm looking for recommended connectors for the mast power wiring and VHF coax inside the base of the mast. My thinking is to bring the cables up through the mast step plate about one foot and install sockets. The mast will be independently wired with it's cables terminated in the base with plugs. When the mast goes back up, just prior to setting it on the mast step, I can plug the cables together. For those that step their mast annually, how do you deal with your mast power cables and VHF coax? Thanks to everyone for all of your input. We have worked our butts off the entire Labor Day Weekend. I'll be real glad when this project is completed! Michael

Hello Everyone, Thank you for all of your input and suggestions. The information provided has been invaluable To date, I have the mast completely stripped of all hardware, including main & spinnaker tracks. The mast has been sanded down to bare metal. To close up unused holes, I have gone the JB Weld route. Time will tell if that turned out to be a good decision. I noted pitting & corrosion on the mast underneath the goose neck. When I removed it I found what appeared to be black electricians tape that was used as an insulator. Any suggestions for reassembly in that regard??? Also, here is a link to the photos to date. Take a look. Name that spar! Is it a "Jensen" section or just what make of mast does Magic sport? So far I have received conflicting input... Your prize is bragging rights! With some luck & good weather, we hope to step the mast in about two weeks. I wish I could do it sooner, but I'll be out of town all of next week. --Michael--

The black electrical tape may have been the "black band" designating the lowest position of the boom to meet design specs. You should also have a black band indicating the maximum out haul on the boom. YMMV John From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Michael D Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2009 8:08 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuild & Name That Spar Hello Everyone, Thank you for all of your input and suggestions. The information provided has been invaluable To date, I have the mast completely stripped of all hardware, including main & spinnaker tracks. The mast has been sanded down to bare metal. To close up unused holes, I have gone the JB Weld route. Time will tell if that turned out to be a good decision. I noted pitting & corrosion on the mast underneath the goose neck. When I removed it I found what appeared to be black electricians tape that was used as an insulator. Any suggestions for reassembly in that regard??? Also, here is a link <http://www.flickr.com/photos/stefsail/sets/72157622081060993/with/387820301 2/> to the photos to date. Take a look. Name that spar! Is it a "Jensen" section or just what make of mast does Magic sport? So far I have received conflicting input... Your prize is bragging rights! With some luck & good weather, we hope to step the mast in about two weeks. I wish I could do it sooner, but I'll be out of town all of next week. --Michael--

Black tape at the gooseneck is not a racing limit line. That would be at the top of the mast. Consider alodining the mast before you paint of re-step it. You are sanding off the anodizing so the aluminum has already started oxidizing. Best is anodizing but that takes big tanks and may not be practical. Alodining is almost as good and can be done with a paint brush. It is used for aircraft parts, for example. It will give the aluminum a nice gold color and can be left like that if you want or is the recommended primer for aluminum if you are going to paint. Aluminum will oxidize as soon as the sandpaper leaves the area so there is no such thing as painting quickly enough. Allen On Wed, Sep 16, 2009 at 4:13 AM, john raxter <jr… [at] triad.rr.com> wrote: > > > The black electrical tape may have been the “black band” designating the > lowest position of the boom to meet design specs. You should also have a > black band indicating the maximum out haul on the boom. > > > > YMMV > > > > John > > > > *From:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] *On > Behalf Of *Michael D > *Sent:* Tuesday, September 15, 2009 8:08 PM > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > *Subject:* [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuild & Name That Spar > > > > > > Hello Everyone, > > Thank you for all of your input and suggestions. The information provided > has been invaluable To date, I have the mast completely stripped of all > hardware, including main & spinnaker tracks. The mast has been sanded down > to bare metal. To close up unused holes, I have gone the JB Weld route. > Time will tell if that turned out to be a good decision. > > I noted pitting & corrosion on the mast underneath the goose neck. When I > removed it I found what appeared to be black electricians tape that was used > as an insulator. Any suggestions for reassembly in that regard??? > > Also, here is a link<http://www.flickr.com/photos/stefsail/sets/72157622081060993/with/3878203012/>to the photos to date. Take a look. Name that spar! Is it a "Jensen" > section or just what make of mast does Magic sport? So far I have received > conflicting input... Your prize is bragging rights! > > With some luck & good weather, we hope to step the mast in about two > weeks. I wish I could do it sooner, but I'll be out of town all of next > week. > > --Michael-- > > > > > > >

Allen, Yes, I'm doing the Awlgrip Alumiprep 33 followed by the Alodine, then Awlgrip primer prior to the top coat. My real question is regarding the goose neck fitting/insulator. I noted that there appeared to be black tape (similar to electricians tape) that was used as an insulator between the goose neck SS fitting and the mast. It was not visible until I removed the goose neck. Is a insulator between SS fittings and the mast common practice? If so, what do you recommend? Thanks, Michael

This is a very good question. I know that aluminum and stainless are not happy with each other but what are you going to do as you are probably going to use stainess bolts everywhere (and not be able to get them out because of the corrosion). This article suggests you need to insulate that contact. http://l-36.com/galv.pdf <http://l-36.com/galv.pdf>The problem is that stainless is at one end of the galvanic scale and aluminum is at the other end, near zinc. The aluminum will plate over to the steel when you put salt water on it. http://l-36.com/corrosion.php You should definitely insulate stainless from aluminum but the other interesting question is what to do about the bolts? How do you insulate them from the stainless? Allen On Wed, Sep 16, 2009 at 8:45 AM, Michael D <md… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > > > Allen, > > Yes, I'm doing the Awlgrip Alumiprep 33 followed by the Alodine, then > Awlgrip primer prior to the top coat. > > My real question is regarding the goose neck fitting/insulator. I noted > that there appeared to be black tape (similar to electricians tape) that was > used as an insulator between the goose neck SS fitting and the mast. It was > not visible until I removed the goose neck. Is a insulator between SS > fittings and the mast common practice? If so, what do you recommend? > > Thanks, > Michael > > >

As a note, Allen, there are both upper and lower limit lines on the mast for the main. Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Allen Edwards Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2009 11:36 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuild & Name That Spar-black tape Black tape at the gooseneck is not a racing limit line. That would be at the top of the mast. Consider alodining the mast before you paint of re-step it. You are sanding off the anodizing so the aluminum has already started oxidizing. Best is anodizing but that takes big tanks and may not be practical. Alodining is almost as good and can be done with a paint brush. It is used for aircraft parts, for example. It will give the aluminum a nice gold color and can be left like that if you want or is the recommended primer for aluminum if you are going to paint. Aluminum will oxidize as soon as the sandpaper leaves the area so there is no such thing as painting quickly enough. Allen On Wed, Sep 16, 2009 at 4:13 AM, john raxter <jr… [at] triad.rr.com<mailto:jr… [at] triad.rr.com>> wrote: The black electrical tape may have been the "black band" designating the lowest position of the boom to meet design specs. You should also have a black band indicating the maximum out haul on the boom. YMMV John From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Michael D Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2009 8:08 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuild & Name That Spar Hello Everyone, Thank you for all of your input and suggestions. The information provided has been invaluable To date, I have the mast completely stripped of all hardware, including main & spinnaker tracks. The mast has been sanded down to bare metal. To close up unused holes, I have gone the JB Weld route. Time will tell if that turned out to be a good decision. I noted pitting & corrosion on the mast underneath the goose neck. When I removed it I found what appeared to be black electricians tape that was used as an insulator. Any suggestions for reassembly in that regard??? Also, here is a link<http://www.flickr.com/photos/stefsail/sets/72157622081060993/with/3878203012/> to the photos to date. Take a look. Name that spar! Is it a "Jensen" section or just what make of mast does Magic sport? So far I have received conflicting input... Your prize is bragging rights! With some luck & good weather, we hope to step the mast in about two weeks. I wish I could do it sooner, but I'll be out of town all of next week. --Michael--

Allen, My only experience is with Lanocote. 4-5 years later, my SS screws came out without any problems and I saw no corrosion. There is a commercial product called Tef-Gel, but I know little about it and cannot compare the two. Take a look at the attached. What you see there is pitting/corrosion where the straps of the gooseneck wrapped around the mast. I'm thinking of some form of insulator is called for when I reattach the gooseneck. The question is what material should I use? Maybe just cutting up a 2 liter bottle to make insulators would be suitable. I don't know. BTW, the other day I followed a thread regarding VHF antennas. I use a Shakespeare 4200 whip at the top of my mast. During rebuild, I'll be rewiring it with RG-213 coax. --Michael--

I think he is talking about an insulator between stainless and aluminum. On your note, what would the lower limit line be used for unless there is a sliding gooseneck, which he doesn't have? A limit line assumes an adjustment. You have to get an old boat like mine to find a sliding gooseneck and mine no longer slides as I use a cunningham. Allen On Wed, Sep 16, 2009 at 9:15 AM, Husar, Charlie [USA] <hu… [at] bah.com > wrote: > > > As a note, Allen, there are both upper and lower limit lines on the mast > for the main. > > Cheers > Charlie > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] *On > Behalf Of *Allen Edwards > *Sent:* Wednesday, September 16, 2009 11:36 AM > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuild & Name That Spar-black tape > > Black tape at the gooseneck is not a racing limit line. That would be at > the top of the mast. > Consider alodining the mast before you paint of re-step it. You are > sanding off the anodizing so the aluminum has already started oxidizing. > Best is anodizing but that takes big tanks and may not be practical. > Alodining is almost as good and can be done with a paint brush. It is used > for aircraft parts, for example. It will give the aluminum a nice gold > color and can be left like that if you want or is the recommended primer for > aluminum if you are going to paint. Aluminum will oxidize as soon as the > sandpaper leaves the area so there is no such thing as painting quickly > enough. > > Allen > > > On Wed, Sep 16, 2009 at 4:13 AM, john raxter <jr… [at] triad.rr.com> wrote: > >> >> >> The black electrical tape may have been the “black band” designating the >> lowest position of the boom to meet design specs. You should also have a >> black band indicating the maximum out haul on the boom. >> >> >> >> YMMV >> >> >> >> John >> >> >> >> *From:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] *On >> Behalf Of *Michael D >> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 15, 2009 8:08 PM >> *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com >> *Subject:* [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuild & Name That Spar >> >> >> >> Hello Everyone, >> >> Thank you for all of your input and suggestions. The information provided >> has been invaluable To date, I have the mast completely stripped of all >> hardware, including main & spinnaker tracks. The mast has been sanded down >> to bare metal. To close up unused holes, I have gone the JB Weld route. >> Time will tell if that turned out to be a good decision. >> >> I noted pitting & corrosion on the mast underneath the goose neck. When I >> removed it I found what appeared to be black electricians tape that was used >> as an insulator. Any suggestions for reassembly in that regard??? >> >> Also, here is a link<http://www.flickr.com/photos/stefsail/sets/72157622081060993/with/3878203012/>to the photos to date. Take a look. Name that spar! Is it a "Jensen" >> section or just what make of mast does Magic sport? So far I have received >> conflicting input... Your prize is bragging rights! >> >> With some luck & good weather, we hope to step the mast in about two >> weeks. I wish I could do it sooner, but I'll be out of town all of next >> week. >> >> --Michael-- >> >> >> >> >> >> > >

You might call Svendsen's and ask the rigging shop. They always seem helpful. Perhaps you know a rigger you could ask. This is probably standard stuff. Sounds good on the screws. Just a point, you won't see corrosion on the SS, that would be on the aluminum. That said, after a few months the SS screws in my swivel cam cleat will not come out of the aluminum so you did well. Allen On Wed, Sep 16, 2009 at 9:19 AM, Michael D <md… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > > > Allen, > > My only experience is with Lanocote. 4-5 years later, my SS screws came > out without any problems and I saw no corrosion. There is a commercial > product called Tef-Gel, but I know little about it and cannot compare the > two. > > Take a look at the attached. What you see there is pitting/corrosion where > the straps of the gooseneck wrapped around the mast. > > I'm thinking of some form of insulator is called for when I reattach the > gooseneck. The question is what material should I use? Maybe just cutting > up a 2 liter bottle to make insulators would be suitable. I don't know. > > BTW, the other day I followed a thread regarding VHF antennas. I use a > Shakespeare 4200 whip at the top of my mast. During rebuild, I'll be > rewiring it with RG-213 coax. > > --Michael-- > > >

Lanocote is the normal insulator for connectors and dissimilar metal installations, in spar world. Any gap/wafer the water can find and settle in, will rot out the less noble material in fabrications. If you use a material spacer, make sure it is either water tight, or drains freely. Take the time after a sea voyage to wash areas with fresh water & "remove the battery acid" (salt). Spreader tips are very popular electrolysis cancer locations, under the taped ends. dEmO From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Allen Edwards Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2009 8:57 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuild & Name That Spar-black tape (Allen) This is a very good question. I know that aluminum and stainless are not happy with each other but what are you going to do as you are probably going to use stainess bolts everywhere (and not be able to get them out because of the corrosion). This article suggests you need to insulate that contact. http://l-36.com/galv.pdf <http://l-36.com/galv.pdf>The problem is that stainless is at one end of the galvanic scale and aluminum is at the other end, near zinc. The aluminum will plate over to the steel when you put salt water on it. http://l-36.com/corrosion.php You should definitely insulate stainless from aluminum but the other interesting question is what to do about the bolts? How do you insulate them from the stainless? Allen On Wed, Sep 16, 2009 at 8:45 AM, Michael D <md… [at] yahoo.com<mailto:md… [at] yahoo.com>> wrote: Allen, Yes, I'm doing the Awlgrip Alumiprep 33 followed by the Alodine, then Awlgrip primer prior to the top coat. My real question is regarding the goose neck fitting/insulator. I noted that there appeared to be black tape (similar to electricians tape) that was used as an insulator between the goose neck SS fitting and the mast. It was not visible until I removed the goose neck. Is a insulator between SS fittings and the mast common practice? If so, what do you recommend? Thanks, Michael

Allen, it is to set a maximum length for the luff of the sail. It is meant to keep people from screwing around with boom placement (even if they don't have a slider - many CALs that I have seen do). Amazing what some people will do to chisel the rules. If I had no lower limit I could move the boom down to a foot off the deck, and get a bigger main. I have a slider on my 25, but I froze it in place with hose clamps since, you are right, it serves no purpose. Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Allen Edwards Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2009 12:21 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuild & Name That Spar-black tape I think he is talking about an insulator between stainless and aluminum. On your note, what would the lower limit line be used for unless there is a sliding gooseneck, which he doesn't have? A limit line assumes an adjustment. You have to get an old boat like mine to find a sliding gooseneck and mine no longer slides as I use a cunningham. Allen On Wed, Sep 16, 2009 at 9:15 AM, Husar, Charlie [USA] <hu… [at] bah.com<mailto:hu… [at] bah.com>> wrote: As a note, Allen, there are both upper and lower limit lines on the mast for the main. Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Allen Edwards Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2009 11:36 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuild & Name That Spar-black tape Black tape at the gooseneck is not a racing limit line. That would be at the top of the mast. Consider alodining the mast before you paint of re-step it. You are sanding off the anodizing so the aluminum has already started oxidizing. Best is anodizing but that takes big tanks and may not be practical. Alodining is almost as good and can be done with a paint brush. It is used for aircraft parts, for example. It will give the aluminum a nice gold color and can be left like that if you want or is the recommended primer for aluminum if you are going to paint. Aluminum will oxidize as soon as the sandpaper leaves the area so there is no such thing as painting quickly enough. Allen On Wed, Sep 16, 2009 at 4:13 AM, john raxter <jr… [at] triad.rr.com<mailto:jr… [at] triad.rr.com>> wrote: The black electrical tape may have been the "black band" designating the lowest position of the boom to meet design specs. You should also have a black band indicating the maximum out haul on the boom. YMMV John From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Michael D Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2009 8:08 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuild & Name That Spar Hello Everyone, Thank you for all of your input and suggestions. The information provided has been invaluable To date, I have the mast completely stripped of all hardware, including main & spinnaker tracks. The mast has been sanded down to bare metal. To close up unused holes, I have gone the JB Weld route. Time will tell if that turned out to be a good decision. I noted pitting & corrosion on the mast underneath the goose neck. When I removed it I found what appeared to be black electricians tape that was used as an insulator. Any suggestions for reassembly in that regard??? Also, here is a link<http://www.flickr.com/photos/stefsail/sets/72157622081060993/with/3878203012/> to the photos to date. Take a look. Name that spar! Is it a "Jensen" section or just what make of mast does Magic sport? So far I have received conflicting input... Your prize is bragging rights! With some luck & good weather, we hope to step the mast in about two weeks. I wish I could do it sooner, but I'll be out of town all of next week. --Michael--

If you want to cheat, just move the tape... Allen On Wed, Sep 16, 2009 at 9:39 AM, Husar, Charlie [USA] <hu… [at] bah.com > wrote: > > > Allen, it is to set a maximum length for the luff of the sail. It is meant > to keep people from screwing around with boom placement (even if they don't > have a slider - many CALs that I have seen do). Amazing what some people > will do to chisel the rules. If I had no lower limit I could move the boom > down to a foot off the deck, and get a bigger main. I have a slider on my > 25, but I froze it in place with hose clamps since, you are right, it serves > no purpose. > > Cheers > Charlie >

has anyone seen aluminum bolts? And if they exist, how many sizes larger would one need to go to match stainless strength? Reggie To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 08:57:19 -0700 Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuild & Name That Spar-black tape (Allen) This is a very good question. I know that aluminum and stainless are not happy with each other but what are you going to do as you are probably going to use stainess bolts everywhere (and not be able to get them out because of the corrosion). This article suggests you need to insulate that contact. http://l-36.com/galv.pdf The problem is that stainless is at one end of the galvanic scale and aluminum is at the other end, near zinc. The aluminum will plate over to the steel when you put salt water on it. http://l-36.com/corrosion.php You should definitely insulate stainless from aluminum but the other interesting question is what to do about the bolts? How do you insulate them from the stainless? Allen On Wed, Sep 16, 2009 at 8:45 AM, Michael D <md… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: Allen, Yes, I'm doing the Awlgrip Alumiprep 33 followed by the Alodine, then Awlgrip primer prior to the top coat. My real question is regarding the goose neck fitting/insulator. I noted that there appeared to be black tape (similar to electricians tape) that was used as an insulator between the goose neck SS fitting and the mast. It was not visible until I removed the goose neck. Is a insulator between SS fittings and the mast common practice? If so, what do you recommend? Thanks, Michael

I have been using Purple Loctite (Low Strength). It seals the thread and the screw can be easily removed. I have only used it on screws up to 1/4" dia. larger screws have more area and removal would be more difficult. Bert --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, <timmothy.lessley@...> wrote: > > Lanocote is the normal insulator for connectors and dissimilar metal installations, in spar world. > > Any gap/wafer the water can find and settle in, will rot out the less noble material in fabrications. > > If you use a material spacer, make sure it is either water tight, or drains freely. > > Take the time after a sea voyage to wash areas with fresh water & "remove the battery acid" (salt). > > Spreader tips are very popular electrolysis cancer locations, under the taped ends. > > dEmO > > ________________________________ > From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Allen Edwards > Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2009 8:57 AM > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuild & Name That Spar-black tape (Allen) > > > > This is a very good question. I know that aluminum and stainless are not happy with each other but what are you going to do as you are probably going to use stainess bolts everywhere (and not be able to get them out because of the corrosion). > > This article suggests you need to insulate that contact. http://l-36.com/galv.pdf > > <http://l-36.com/galv.pdf>The problem is that stainless is at one end of the galvanic scale and aluminum is at the other end, near zinc. The aluminum will plate over to the steel when you put salt water on it. http://l-36.com/corrosion.php > > You should definitely insulate stainless from aluminum but the other interesting question is what to do about the bolts? How do you insulate them from the stainless? > > Allen > > > On Wed, Sep 16, 2009 at 8:45 AM, Michael D <mddfl@...<mailto:mddfl@...>> wrote: > > > Allen, > > Yes, I'm doing the Awlgrip Alumiprep 33 followed by the Alodine, then Awlgrip primer prior to the top coat. > > My real question is regarding the goose neck fitting/insulator. I noted that there appeared to be black tape (similar to electricians tape) that was used as an insulator between the goose neck SS fitting and the mast. It was not visible until I removed the goose neck. Is a insulator between SS fittings and the mast common practice? If so, what do you recommend? > > Thanks, > Michael >

Michael I don't know how things are held together but if you are threading SS into a aluminum thread it is almost certain that they will make electrical contact. The loctite will keep the moisture out so it will protect the screw. But if that screw also makes electrical contact with the gooseneck, you now have contact between the gooseneck and the mast. I would consider an insulating washer to avoid the electrical contact between the gooseneck and the screw and lots of goop to insulate the through hole in the gooseneck. The key is probably what you have identified, the junction between the gooseneck and the mast. You said that there was electrical tape that I guess worked for part of it but not for the brackets. I guess you said there was no tape under the brackets. This is a very difficult problem. Please let me know what you end up doing. I don't think I am being very helpful, sorry. Allen On Thu, Sep 17, 2009 at 7:52 AM, bpesak <bj… [at] gmail.com> wrote: > > > I have been using Purple Loctite (Low Strength). It seals the thread and > the screw can be easily removed. I have only used it on screws up to 1/4" > dia. larger screws have more area and removal would be more difficult. > > Bert > > > --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com>, > <timmothy.lessley@...> wrote: > > > > Lanocote is the normal insulator for connectors and dissimilar metal > installations, in spar world. > > > > Any gap/wafer the water can find and settle in, will rot out the less > noble material in fabrications. > > > > If you use a material spacer, make sure it is either water tight, or > drains freely. > > > > Take the time after a sea voyage to wash areas with fresh water & "remove > the battery acid" (salt). > > > > Spreader tips are very popular electrolysis cancer locations, under the > taped ends. > > > > dEmO > > > > ________________________________ > > From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto: > Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of > Allen Edwards > > Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2009 8:57 AM > > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> > > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuild & Name That Spar-black tape (Allen) > > > > > > > > This is a very good question. I know that aluminum and stainless are not > happy with each other but what are you going to do as you are probably going > to use stainess bolts everywhere (and not be able to get them out because of > the corrosion). > > > > This article suggests you need to insulate that contact. > http://l-36.com/galv.pdf > > > > <http://l-36.com/galv.pdf>The problem is that stainless is at one end of > the galvanic scale and aluminum is at the other end, near zinc. The aluminum > will plate over to the steel when you put salt water on it. > http://l-36.com/corrosion.php > > > > You should definitely insulate stainless from aluminum but the other > interesting question is what to do about the bolts? How do you insulate them > from the stainless? > > > > Allen > > > > > > On Wed, Sep 16, 2009 at 8:45 AM, Michael D <mddfl@...<mailto:mddfl@...>> > wrote: > > > > > > Allen, > > > > Yes, I'm doing the Awlgrip Alumiprep 33 followed by the Alodine, then > Awlgrip primer prior to the top coat. > > > > My real question is regarding the goose neck fitting/insulator. I noted > that there appeared to be black tape (similar to electricians tape) that was > used as an insulator between the goose neck SS fitting and the mast. It was > not visible until I removed the goose neck. Is a insulator between SS > fittings and the mast common practice? If so, what do you recommend? > > > > Thanks, > > Michael > > > > >

I have a slightly different twist on isolating metals. I have always used Anhydrous Lanolin. It fills the thread and keeps out water as well as creating a barrier between the metals. I think this is an "old timer's" solution. I also slap a layer on my prop every year and it seems to keep the barnicals off. BTW - its cheap! Wayne Gillikin "Elusive" Cal 39-3 From: Allen Edwards <al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 11:19:30 AM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Re: Mast Rebuild Michael I don't know how things are held together but if you are threading SS into a aluminum thread it is almost certain that they will make electrical contact. The loctite will keep the moisture out so it will protect the screw. But if that screw also makes electrical contact with the gooseneck, you now have contact between the gooseneck and the mast. I would consider an insulating washer to avoid the electrical contact between the gooseneck and the screw and lots of goop to insulate the through hole in the gooseneck. The key is probably what you have identified, the junction between the gooseneck and the mast. You said that there was electrical tape that I guess worked for part of it but not for the brackets. I guess you said there was no tape under the brackets. This is a very difficult problem. Please let me know what you end up doing. I don't think I am being very helpful, sorry. Allen On Thu, Sep 17, 2009 at 7:52 AM, bpesak <bjp3167@gmail. com> wrote: >I have been using Purple Loctite (Low Strength). It seals the thread and the screw can be easily removed. I have only used it on screws up to 1/4" dia. larger screws have more area and removal would be more difficult. > >Bert > > >--- In Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com, <timmothy.lessley@ ...> wrote: >> >> Lanocote is the normal insulator for connectors and dissimilar metal installations, in spar world. >> >> Any gap/wafer the water can find and settle in, will rot out the less noble material in fabrications. >> >> If you use a material spacer, make sure it is either water tight, or drains freely. >> >> Take the time after a sea voyage to wash areas with fresh water & "remove the battery acid" (salt). >> >> Spreader tips are very popular electrolysis cancer locations, under the taped ends. >> >> dEmO >> >> ____________ _________ _________ __ >> From: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com [mailto:Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com] On Behalf Of Allen Edwards >> Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2009 8:57 AM >> To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com >> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuild & Name That Spar-black tape (Allen) >> >> >> >> This is a very good question. I know that aluminum and stainless are not happy with each other but what are you going to do as you are probably going to use stainess bolts everywhere (and not be able to get them out because of the corrosion). >> >> This article suggests you need to insulate that contact. http://l-36. com/galv. pdf >> >> <http://l-36. com/galv. pdf>The problem is that stainless is at one end of the galvanic scale and aluminum is at the other end, near zinc. The aluminum will plate over to the steel when you put salt water on it. http://l-36. com/corrosion. php >> >> You should definitely insulate stainless from aluminum but the other interesting question is what to do about the bolts? How do you insulate them from the stainless? >> >> Allen >> >> > >> On Wed, Sep 16, 2009 at 8:45 AM, Michael D <mddfl@...<mailto:mddfl@...>> wrote: >> >> >> Allen, >> >> Yes, I'm doing the Awlgrip Alumiprep 33 followed by the Alodine, then Awlgrip primer prior to the top coat. >> >> My real question is regarding the goose neck fitting/insulator. I noted that there appeared to be black tape (similar to electricians tape) that was used as an insulator between the goose neck SS fitting and the mast. It was not visible until I removed the goose neck. Is a insulator between SS fittings and the mast common practice? If so, what do you recommend? >> >> Thanks, >> Michael >> > >

greetings Some points Anytime ss and alu.. come in contact there will be corrison all the compunds in the world will not stop it what will control it is to replace the loc tite or lanocote long before its to late how long that is depends on refit the gear every 5-7years at best But below are some factors temp humidty and more Just my 2 cents worth Scott cal 2-29 --- On Thu, 9/17/09, Allen Edwards <al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com> wrote: From: Allen Edwards <al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Re: Mast Rebuild To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Thursday, September 17, 2009, 8:19 AM Michael I don't know how things are held together but if you are threading SS into a aluminum thread it is almost certain that they will make electrical contact. The loctite will keep the moisture out so it will protect the screw. But if that screw also makes electrical contact with the gooseneck, you now have contact between the gooseneck and the mast. I would consider an insulating washer to avoid the electrical contact between the gooseneck and the screw and lots of goop to insulate the through hole in the gooseneck. The key is probably what you have identified, the junction between the gooseneck and the mast. You said that there was electrical tape that I guess worked for part of it but not for the brackets. I guess you said there was no tape under the brackets. This is a very difficult problem. Please let me know what you end up doing. I don't think I am being very helpful, sorry. Allen On Thu, Sep 17, 2009 at 7:52 AM, bpesak <bjp3167@gmail. com> wrote: I have been using Purple Loctite (Low Strength). It seals the thread and the screw can be easily removed. I have only used it on screws up to 1/4" dia. larger screws have more area and removal would be more difficult. Bert --- In Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com, <timmothy.lessley@ ...> wrote: > > Lanocote is the normal insulator for connectors and dissimilar metal installations, in spar world. > > Any gap/wafer the water can find and settle in, will rot out the less noble material in fabrications. > > If you use a material spacer, make sure it is either water tight, or drains freely. > > Take the time after a sea voyage to wash areas with fresh water & "remove the battery acid" (salt). > > Spreader tips are very popular electrolysis cancer locations, under the taped ends. > > dEmO > > ____________ _________ _________ __ > From: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com [mailto:Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com] On Behalf Of Allen Edwards > Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2009 8:57 AM > To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuild & Name That Spar-black tape (Allen) > > > > This is a very good question. I know that aluminum and stainless are not happy with each other but what are you going to do as you are probably going to use stainess bolts everywhere (and not be able to get them out because of the corrosion). > > This article suggests you need to insulate that contact. http://l-36. com/galv. pdf > > <http://l-36. com/galv. pdf>The problem is that stainless is at one end of the galvanic scale and aluminum is at the other end, near zinc. The aluminum will plate over to the steel when you put salt water on it. http://l-36. com/corrosion. php > > You should definitely insulate stainless from aluminum but the other interesting question is what to do about the bolts? How do you insulate them from the stainless? > > Allen > > > On Wed, Sep 16, 2009 at 8:45 AM, Michael D <mddfl@...<mailto:mddfl@...>> wrote: > > > Allen, > > Yes, I'm doing the Awlgrip Alumiprep 33 followed by the Alodine, then Awlgrip primer prior to the top coat. > > My real question is regarding the goose neck fitting/insulator. I noted that there appeared to be black tape (similar to electricians tape) that was used as an insulator between the goose neck SS fitting and the mast. It was not visible until I removed the goose neck. Is a insulator between SS fittings and the mast common practice? If so, what do you recommend? > > Thanks, > Michael >

Today I hauled CAL20 HULL#61 Her hull was is excellent condition, but her keel bulb and keel were the worst I have seen. She was last hauled in 1997---yes 12years ago. her keel plate was penetrated and no longer fair with blisters which were areas of corrosion. More importently there are areas of deteriortation on the keel bulb that are the size of golf balls. When I take a probe of those areas I keep penetrating iron that has the consistancy of graphite. I plan to drill into these areas until I reach clean metal and then replace the lost material with marine tex. the hull to keel joint does not have anywhere near this level of corrosion, the keel bolts are strong and no measurable loss is seen.. Short of removing and blastind the keel /keel bulb is there another solution that the group has entertained? --- On Thu, 9/17/09, scott <ss… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: From: scott <ss… [at] yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Re: Mast Rebuild To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Thursday, September 17, 2009, 5:46 PM greetings Some points Anytime ss and alu.. come in contact there will be corrison all the compunds in the world will not stop it what will control it is to replace the loc tite or lanocote long before its to late how long that is depends on refit the gear every 5-7years at best But below are some factors temp humidty and more Just my 2 cents worth Scott cal 2-29 --- On Thu, 9/17/09, Allen Edwards <al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com> wrote: From: Allen Edwards <al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Re: Mast Rebuild To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Thursday, September 17, 2009, 8:19 AM Michael I don't know how things are held together but if you are threading SS into a aluminum thread it is almost certain that they will make electrical contact. The loctite will keep the moisture out so it will protect the screw. But if that screw also makes electrical contact with the gooseneck, you now have contact between the gooseneck and the mast. I would consider an insulating washer to avoid the electrical contact between the gooseneck and the screw and lots of goop to insulate the through hole in the gooseneck. The key is probably what you have identified, the junction between the gooseneck and the mast. You said that there was electrical tape that I guess worked for part of it but not for the brackets. I guess you said there was no tape under the brackets. This is a very difficult problem. Please let me know what you end up doing. I don't think I am being very helpful, sorry. Allen On Thu, Sep 17, 2009 at 7:52 AM, bpesak <bjp3167@gmail. com> wrote: I have been using Purple Loctite (Low Strength). It seals the thread and the screw can be easily removed. I have only used it on screws up to 1/4" dia. larger screws have more area and removal would be more difficult. Bert --- In Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com, <timmothy.lessley@ ...> wrote: > > Lanocote is the normal insulator for connectors and dissimilar metal installations, in spar world. > > Any gap/wafer the water can find and settle in, will rot out the less noble material in fabrications. > > If you use a material spacer, make sure it is either water tight, or drains freely. > > Take the time after a sea voyage to wash areas with fresh water & "remove the battery acid" (salt). > > Spreader tips are very popular electrolysis cancer locations, under the taped ends. > > dEmO > > ____________ _________ _________ __ > From: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com [mailto:Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com] On Behalf Of Allen Edwards > Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2009 8:57 AM > To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuild & Name That Spar-black tape (Allen) > > > > This is a very good question. I know that aluminum and stainless are not happy with each other but what are you going to do as you are probably going to use stainess bolts everywhere (and not be able to get them out because of the corrosion). > > This article suggests you need to insulate that contact. http://l-36. com/galv. pdf > > <http://l-36. com/galv. pdf>The problem is that stainless is at one end of the galvanic scale and aluminum is at the other end, near zinc. The aluminum will plate over to the steel when you put salt water on it. http://l-36. com/corrosion. php > > You should definitely insulate stainless from aluminum but the other interesting question is what to do about the bolts? How do you insulate them from the stainless? > > Allen > > > On Wed, Sep 16, 2009 at 8:45 AM, Michael D <mddfl@...<mailto:mddfl@...>> wrote: > > > Allen, > > Yes, I'm doing the Awlgrip Alumiprep 33 followed by the Alodine, then Awlgrip primer prior to the top coat. > > My real question is regarding the goose neck fitting/insulator. I noted that there appeared to be black tape (similar to electricians tape) that was used as an insulator between the goose neck SS fitting and the mast. It was not visible until I removed the goose neck. Is a insulator between SS fittings and the mast common practice? If so, what do you recommend? > > Thanks, > Michael >

Scott, sounds like the way my 3/4" boilerplate centerboard looked when I bought my Cal 24 Mk 1...and even four years later after I'd repaired and painted it with epoxy barrier coat. Another route you can take is mixing silica additive/filler with West Systems Epoxy. Jerry --- On Thu, 9/17/09, mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: From: mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com> Subject: [Cal_Boats] Electrolsys or corrosion. Iron Keel and bulb--Cal20 To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Thursday, September 17, 2009, 6:34 PM Today I hauled CAL20 HULL#61 Her hull was is excellent condition, but her keel bulb and keel were the worst I have seen. She was last hauled in 1997---yes 12years ago. her keel plate was penetrated and no longer fair with blisters which were areas of corrosion. More importently there are areas of deteriortation on the keel bulb that are the size of golf balls. When I take a probe of those areas I keep penetrating iron that has the consistancy of graphite. I plan to drill into these areas until I reach clean metal and then replace the lost material with marine tex. the hull to keel joint does not have anywhere near this level of corrosion, the keel bolts are strong and no measurable loss is seen.. Short of removing and blastind the keel /keel bulb is there another solution that the group has entertained? --- On Thu, 9/17/09, scott <sscot12@yahoo. com> wrote: From: scott <sscot12@yahoo. com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Re: Mast Rebuild To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Thursday, September 17, 2009, 5:46 PM greetings Some points Anytime ss and alu.. come in contact there will be corrison all the compunds in the world will not stop it what will control it is to replace the loc tite or lanocote long before its to late how long that is depends on refit the gear every 5-7years at best But below are some factors temp humidty and more Just my 2 cents worth Scott cal 2-29 --- On Thu, 9/17/09, Allen Edwards <allen.edwards@ PaloAltoPhoto. com> wrote: From: Allen Edwards <allen.edwards@ PaloAltoPhoto. com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Re: Mast Rebuild To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Thursday, September 17, 2009, 8:19 AM Michael I don't know how things are held together but if you are threading SS into a aluminum thread it is almost certain that they will make electrical contact. The loctite will keep the moisture out so it will protect the screw. But if that screw also makes electrical contact with the gooseneck, you now have contact between the gooseneck and the mast. I would consider an insulating washer to avoid the electrical contact between the gooseneck and the screw and lots of goop to insulate the through hole in the gooseneck. The key is probably what you have identified, the junction between the gooseneck and the mast. You said that there was electrical tape that I guess worked for part of it but not for the brackets. I guess you said there was no tape under the brackets. This is a very difficult problem. Please let me know what you end up doing. I don't think I am being very helpful, sorry. Allen On Thu, Sep 17, 2009 at 7:52 AM, bpesak <bjp3167@gmail. com> wrote: I have been using Purple Loctite (Low Strength). It seals the thread and the screw can be easily removed. I have only used it on screws up to 1/4" dia. larger screws have more area and removal would be more difficult. Bert --- In Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com, <timmothy.lessley@ ...> wrote: > > Lanocote is the normal insulator for connectors and dissimilar metal installations, in spar world. > > Any gap/wafer the water can find and settle in, will rot out the less noble material in fabrications. > > If you use a material spacer, make sure it is either water tight, or drains freely. > > Take the time after a sea voyage to wash areas with fresh water & "remove the battery acid" (salt). > > Spreader tips are very popular electrolysis cancer locations, under the taped ends. > > dEmO > > ____________ _________ _________ __ > From: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com [mailto:Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com] On Behalf Of Allen Edwards > Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2009 8:57 AM > To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mast Rebuild & Name That Spar-black tape (Allen) > > > > This is a very good question. I know that aluminum and stainless are not happy with each other but what are you going to do as you are probably going to use stainess bolts everywhere (and not be able to get them out because of the corrosion). > > This article suggests you need to insulate that contact. http://l-36. com/galv. pdf > > <http://l-36. com/galv. pdf>The problem is that stainless is at one end of the galvanic scale and aluminum is at the other end, near zinc. The aluminum will plate over to the steel when you put salt water on it. http://l-36. com/corrosion. php > > You should definitely insulate stainless from aluminum but the other interesting question is what to do about the bolts? How do you insulate them from the stainless? > > Allen > > > On Wed, Sep 16, 2009 at 8:45 AM, Michael D <mddfl@...<mailto:mddfl@...>> wrote: > > > Allen, > > Yes, I'm doing the Awlgrip Alumiprep 33 followed by the Alodine, then Awlgrip primer prior to the top coat. > > My real question is regarding the goose neck fitting/insulator. I noted that there appeared to be black tape (similar to electricians tape) that was used as an insulator between the goose neck SS fitting and the mast. It was not visible until I removed the goose neck. Is a insulator between SS fittings and the mast common practice? If so, what do you recommend? > > Thanks, > Michael >