Re: [Cal_Boats] Re: I hate to varnish! (Carlos)

You might try oxilac(sp) acid with a pot scrubber pad before oiling. That will bleach the wood back to a brown color. Cheers, Timm Lessley (Sent from Blackberry) (503) 863-4019 From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Mon Dec 14 09:26:09 2009 Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Re: I hate to varnish! (Carlos) Carlos, Thanks and please send the Pix along when convenient. So far it looks like oil is the way to go. I know I said that cosmetics was a tertiary concern but I really don't like the gray. I do like the wonderful honey color that is revealed by sanding but sanding handholds annually is a time consuming task. Oil is looking better and better. Do you have a brand preference? Are they different enough that if you start with one brand you need to stick with it or can you get whatever is on sale? I keep my boat at the New York Athletic Club YC at Travers Island (Pelham Manor) quite near City Island. BTW - my alma mater is NYU deep in the heart of Manhattan. Regards, Wayne From: calden <ca… [at] msn.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Mon, December 14, 2009 11:08:21 AM Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: I hate to varnish! (Carlos) Wayne: I think you'd be okay with teak oil instead of varnish where you are. Not an expert, but that's my opinion.. Teak oil doesn't make the wood slippery. It's a drying oil, like boiled linseed oil (I think boiled linseed oil is one of the main components of teak oil) and dries to hardened finish. It's just not as glossy shiny as 6+ coats of varnish with sanding between each coat. It's easy to apply - just basic sanding on old dried teak with 120 grit paper to level the surface a bit, then with 220 to smooth. Then apply the teak oil - some people actually sand with the oil on it. It's nothing as hard as applying varnish and watching for drips and stuff like that. Then let it sit for a while - 20 minutes, 30 minutes, and wipe off the excess. It hardens up and looks great. In salt air you might have to do this twice a season. But when it needs it, it just starts looking dull, unlike varnish, which begins to flake and peel off. Then again, with teak, it needs no protection really. Some feel that keeping teak shiny with varnishing or oiling erodes it because it is subject to the regular sanding every year. If you don't mind the gray weathered silver color, that's fine. Go ask your local chandelry what they recommend for teak oil. I'll send you a picture of my boat with the oiled teak. Where in NY are you? I went to school in Manhattan and lived there a few years. Carlos --- In Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com<mailto:Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com>, Wayne Gillikin <waynegillikin@ ...> wrote: > > Carlos, > > Two questions: First the boat lives in the NY Metro area in salt water, do you think oil would be as effective here. Second, would the teak oil make the coaming caps slippery when wet? > > Easy is exactly what I am looking for. > > Regards, > Wayne > > > > > ____________ _________ _________ __ > From: calden <calden3@... > > To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com<mailto:Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Mon, December 14, 2009 10:05:11 AM > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: I hate to varnish! > > > Wayne: > > Depends on where you live. I had a San Juan 21 with various teak bits on deck. I cleaned them and oiled them with teak oil. Looked good until the end of the season, then I'd do it again in the Spring. A LOT easier than revarnishing. > > However, I live fairly far north and sail in a freshwater lake, and do not have the heat, humidity, and annual UV exposure that someone would have, say, in Florida. > > Carlos >