Re: [Cal_Boats] LP Calculator

The LP has no real relationship to clew height. LP is purely a measurement of the length of a line drawn through the clew and perpendicular to the luff. Whether the clew is 1' or 5' (or more.. or less) off the deck, the length of the LP as a percentage of the "J" measurement does not change. A 90% jib will be a 90% jib no matter what the height of the clew off the deck, as long as the LP = 90% of the J measurement. Rod Johnson, "SUNBIRD" 1979 O'DAY DS II #10201 On Wed, 16 Dec 2009 18:05:51 -0800 Allen Edwards <al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com> writes: Hi Charlie, I am not sure what you are getting at. It is certainly important to know the clew height in deciding if a sail will fit. On my boat the fact that the mast is at some angle and that the bow is up relative to the mast base is important to the tune of about a foot. However, I do not think these change the definition of LP. What I have neglected is that any luff hollow will subtract from the LP. I am just making a calculation on an ideal triangle and we all know sails are not ideal triangles. Here are the definitions. J: J Horizontal distance from mast to where the forward most jibstay intersects the deck, or jib tack. Note that ‘JC’ is no longer on this form. LP: The LP (Luff Perpendicular) of your jibs is determined by measuring the distance from the clew to the nearest point on the luff. This is done by holding the zero end of a tape measure at the clew (defined as the intersection of the leech and the foot), removing the wrinkles from the area to be measured, and swinging an arc up and down the luff, recording the minimum distance, then dividing by J and multiplying by 100. Allen On Wed, Dec 16, 2009 at 5:40 PM, Husar, Charlie [USA] <hu… [at] bah.com> wrote: Allen, would there not be a variable introduced based on the required height of the clew due to the boat's sheeting angle? Cheers Charlie Nutrition Improve your career health. Click now to study nutrition! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=vYECyVdO-e-dKKEm1DNrigAAJ1CIixW8vmHn6WPZlsvVErEuAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAASQwAAAAA=

When checking sail design, I always drew the line from the center of the luff through the clew to determine the nominal location of the turning block..... If you fold the sail luff on its self so that the clew is on the fold and measure the distance from the clew to the luff , this is the LP. On some deck sweapers this does not work.... Rodney G. Johnson wrote: > > > The LP has no real relationship to clew height. LP is purely a > measurement of the length of a line drawn through the clew and > perpendicular to the luff. Whether the clew is 1' or 5' (or more.. or > less) off the deck, the length of the LP as a percentage of the "J" > measurement does not change. A 90% jib will be a 90% jib no matter > what the height of the clew off the deck, as long as the LP = 90% of > the J measurement. > > Rod Johnson, > "SUNBIRD" > 1979 O'DAY DS > II #10201 > > On Wed, 16 Dec 2009 18:05:51 -0800 Allen Edwards > <al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com > <mailto:al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com>> writes: > > > > Hi Charlie, > > > I am not sure what you are getting at. It is certainly important > to know the clew height in deciding if a sail will fit. On my > boat the fact that the mast is at some angle and that the bow is > up relative to the mast base is important to the tune of about a > foot. However, I do not think these change the definition of LP. > What I have neglected is that any luff hollow will subtract from > the LP. I am just making a calculation on an ideal triangle and > we all know sails are not ideal triangles. Here are the definitions. > > J: J Horizontal distance from mast to where the forward most > jibstay intersects the > deck, or jib tack. Note that 'JC' is no longer on this form. > > LP: The LP (Luff Perpendicular) of your > jibs is determined by measuring the distance from the clew to the > nearest point > on the luff. This is done by holding the zero end of a tape > measure at the clew > (defined as the intersection of the leech and the foot), removing > the wrinkles > from the area to be measured, and swinging an arc up and down the > luff, > recording the minimum distance, then dividing by J and multiplying > by 100. > > > Allen > > > > On Wed, Dec 16, 2009 at 5:40 PM, Husar, Charlie [USA] > <hu… [at] bah.com <mailto:hu… [at] bah.com>> wrote: > > > Allen, would there not be a variable introduced based on the > required height of the clew due to the boat's sheeting angle? > > Cheers > Charlie > > > > > > > > > > ____________________________________________________________ > Nutrition > Improve your career health. Click now to study nutrition! > <http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2142/c?cp=vYECyVdO-e-dKKEm1DNrigAAJ1CIixW8vmHn6WPZlsvVErEuAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAASQwAAAAA=> >

Roline, can you remind us of your web site name? Has it been updated with the recent project work you indicated you completed on your Cal 9.2? Thanks, Nick "Jade" Cal 9.2 From: "roline" <ro… [at] charter.net> To: "Cal Boats" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 6:06:13 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] LP Calculator When checking sail design, I always drew the line from the center of the luff through the clew to determine the nominal location of the turning block..... If you fold the sail luff on its self so that the clew is on the fold and measure the distance from the clew to the luff , this is the LP. On some deck sweapers this does not work.... Rodney G. Johnson wrote: The LP has no real relationship to clew height. LP is purely a measurement of the length of a line drawn through the clew and perpendicular to the luff. Whether the clew is 1' or 5' (or more.. or less) off the deck, the length of the LP as a percentage of the "J" measurement does not change. A 90% jib will be a 90% jib no matter what the height of the clew off the deck, as long as the LP = 90% of the J measurement. Rod Johnson, "SUNBIRD" 1979 O'DAY DS II #10201 On Wed, 16 Dec 2009 18:05:51 -0800 Allen Edwards < al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com > writes: Hi Charlie, I am not sure what you are getting at. It is certainly important to know the clew height in deciding if a sail will fit. On my boat the fact that the mast is at some angle and that the bow is up relative to the mast base is important to the tune of about a foot. However, I do not think these change the definition of LP. What I have neglected is that any luff hollow will subtract from the LP. I am just making a calculation on an ideal triangle and we all know sails are not ideal triangles. Here are the definitions. J: J Horizontal distance from mast to where the forward most jibstay intersects the deck, or jib tack. Note that ‘JC’ is no longer on this form. LP: The LP (Luff Perpendicular) of your jibs is determined by measuring the distance from the clew to the nearest point on the luff. This is done by holding the zero end of a tape measure at the clew (defined as the intersection of the leech and the foot), removing the wrinkles from the area to be measured, and swinging an arc up and down the luff, recording the minimum distance, then dividing by J and multiplying by 100. Allen On Wed, Dec 16, 2009 at 5:40 PM, Husar, Charlie [USA] < hu… [at] bah.com > wrote: Allen, would there not be a variable introduced based on the required height of the clew due to the boat's sheeting angle? Cheers Charlie Nutrition Improve your career health. Click now to study nutrition!

Last project was converting to propane stove on a slide out mount with a stowage box behind.... I need to work on the prop shaft strut, but to get to the nuts on the inside, looks like I'l have to remove the engine to crawl in... Any suggestions?? http://www.angelfire.com/tn/santana525/cal92/cal92.html Eric ng… [at] comcast.net wrote: > > > Roline, can you remind us of your web site name? Has it been updated > with the recent project work you indicated you completed on your Cal 9.2? > > > > Thanks, Nick "Jade" Cal 9.2 > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "roline" <ro… [at] charter.net> > To: "Cal Boats" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 6:06:13 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] LP Calculator > > > > When checking sail design, I always drew the line from the center of > the luff through the clew to determine the nominal location of the > turning block..... > If you fold the sail luff on its self so that the clew is on the > fold and measure the distance from the clew to the luff , this is > the LP. > On some deck sweapers this does not work.... > > > > > Rodney G. Johnson wrote: > > > The LP has no real relationship to clew height. LP is purely a > measurement of the length of a line drawn through the clew and > perpendicular to the luff. Whether the clew is 1' or 5' (or more.. > or less) off the deck, the length of the LP as a percentage of the > "J" measurement does not change. A 90% jib will be a 90% jib no > matter what the height of the clew off the deck, as long as the LP > = 90% of the J measurement. > > Rod > Johnson, "SUNBIRD" > 1979 O'DAY > DS II #10201 > > On Wed, 16 Dec 2009 18:05:51 -0800 Allen Edwards > <al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com > <mailto:al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com>> writes: > > > > Hi Charlie, > > > I am not sure what you are getting at. It is certainly > important to know the clew height in deciding if a sail will > fit. On my boat the fact that the mast is at some angle and > that the bow is up relative to the mast base is important to > the tune of about a foot. However, I do not think these > change the definition of LP. What I have neglected is that > any luff hollow will subtract from the LP. I am just making a > calculation on an ideal triangle and we all know sails are not > ideal triangles. Here are the definitions. > > J: J Horizontal distance from mast to where the forward most > jibstay intersects the > deck, or jib tack. Note that ‘JC’ is no longer on this form. > > LP: The LP (Luff Perpendicular) of your > jibs is determined by measuring the distance from the clew to > the nearest point > on the luff. This is done by holding the zero end of a tape > measure at the clew > (defined as the intersection of the leech and the foot), > removing the wrinkles > from the area to be measured, and swinging an arc up and down > the luff, > recording the minimum distance, then dividing by J and > multiplying by 100. > > > Allen > > > > On Wed, Dec 16, 2009 at 5:40 PM, Husar, Charlie [USA] > <hu… [at] bah.com <mailto:hu… [at] bah.com>> wrote: > > > Allen, would there not be a variable introduced based on > the required height of the clew due to the boat's sheeting > angle? > > Cheers > Charlie > > > > > > > > > > ____________________________________________________________ > Nutrition > Improve your career health. Click now to study nutrition! > <http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2142/c?cp=vYECyVdO-e-dKKEm1DNrigAAJ1CIixW8vmHn6WPZlsvVErEuAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAASQwAAAAA=> > > >

Hi, Thanks much, I pulled out the liner on my 9.2 and plan to replace it with something. The airline plastic liner faded, started cracking in many places and blocked sight of chainplates, etc. Besides my son said it all weighed about 50 lbs. Later, Nick "Jade" Cal 9.2 From: "roline" <ro… [at] charter.net> To: "Cal Boats" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 6:27:13 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Web site reminder Last project was converting to propane stove on a slide out mount with a stowage box behind.... I need to work on the prop shaft strut, but to get to the nuts on the inside, looks like I'l have to remove the engine to crawl in... Any suggestions?? http://www.angelfire.com/tn/santana525/cal92/cal92.html Eric ng… [at] comcast.net wrote: Roline, can you remind us of your web site name? Has it been updated with the recent project work you indicated you completed on your Cal 9.2? Thanks, Nick "Jade" Cal 9.2 From: "roline" <ro… [at] charter.net> To: "Cal Boats" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 6:06:13 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] LP Calculator When checking sail design, I always drew the line from the center of the luff through the clew to determine the nominal location of the turning block..... If you fold the sail luff on its self so that the clew is on the fold and measure the distance from the clew to the luff , this is the LP. On some deck sweapers this does not work.... Rodney G. Johnson wrote: The LP has no real relationship to clew height. LP is purely a measurement of the length of a line drawn through the clew and perpendicular to the luff. Whether the clew is 1' or 5' (or more.. or less) off the deck, the length of the LP as a percentage of the "J" measurement does not change. A 90% jib will be a 90% jib no matter what the height of the clew off the deck, as long as the LP = 90% of the J measurement. Rod Johnson, "SUNBIRD" 1979 O'DAY DS II #10201 On Wed, 16 Dec 2009 18:05:51 -0800 Allen Edwards < al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com > writes: Hi Charlie, I am not sure what you are getting at. It is certainly important to know the clew height in deciding if a sail will fit. On my boat the fact that the mast is at some angle and that the bow is up relative to the mast base is important to the tune of about a foot. However, I do not think these change the definition of LP. What I have neglected is that any luff hollow will subtract from the LP. I am just making a calculation on an ideal triangle and we all know sails are not ideal triangles. Here are the definitions. J: J Horizontal distance from mast to where the forward most jibstay intersects the deck, or jib tack. Note that ‘JC’ is no longer on this form. LP: The LP (Luff Perpendicular) of your jibs is determined by measuring the distance from the clew to the nearest point on the luff. This is done by holding the zero end of a tape measure at the clew (defined as the intersection of the leech and the foot), removing the wrinkles from the area to be measured, and swinging an arc up and down the luff, recording the minimum distance, then dividing by J and multiplying by 100. Allen On Wed, Dec 16, 2009 at 5:40 PM, Husar, Charlie [USA] < hu… [at] bah.com > wrote: Allen, would there not be a variable introduced based on the required height of the clew due to the boat's sheeting angle? Cheers Charlie Nutrition Improve your career health. Click now to study nutrition!

My liner replacement effort on Freewind Removed the liner, screwed in furring strips and installed fiberglass shower panels, as it has nice liner edges. So far I really like it. As for the sides of the cabin, just faired it with ballooned fairing epoxy and painted with 1 part epoxy. Maybe not lighter - but very nice and easy access to bolt backsides. I also replaced the cabin lights (windows) with a system without screws. zero leaks in 5 years [cid:200504100@18122009-0CA7][cid:200504100@18122009-0CAE] [cid:200504100@18122009-0CB5][cid:200504100@18122009-0CBC] [cid:200504100@18122009-0CC3][cid:200504100@18122009-0CCA] From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ng… [at] comcast.net Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 4:41 PM To: Cal Boats Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Web site reminder Hi, Thanks much, I pulled out the liner on my 9.2 and plan to replace it with something. The airline plastic liner faded, started cracking in many places and blocked sight of chainplates, etc. Besides my son said it all weighed about 50 lbs. Later, Nick "Jade" Cal 9.2 From: "roline" <ro… [at] charter.net> To: "Cal Boats" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 6:27:13 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Web site reminder Last project was converting to propane stove on a slide out mount with a stowage box behind.... I need to work on the prop shaft strut, but to get to the nuts on the inside, looks like I'l have to remove the engine to crawl in... Any suggestions?? http://www.angelfire.com/tn/santana525/cal92/cal92.html Eric ng… [at] comcast.net<mailto:ng… [at] comcast.net> wrote: Roline, can you remind us of your web site name? Has it been updated with the recent project work you indicated you completed on your Cal 9.2? Thanks, Nick "Jade" Cal 9.2 From: "roline" <ro… [at] charter.net> To: "Cal Boats" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 6:06:13 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] LP Calculator When checking sail design, I always drew the line from the center of the luff through the clew to determine the nominal location of the turning block..... If you fold the sail luff on its self so that the clew is on the fold and measure the distance from the clew to the luff , this is the LP. On some deck sweapers this does not work.... Rodney G. Johnson wrote: The LP has no real relationship to clew height. LP is purely a measurement of the length of a line drawn through the clew and perpendicular to the luff. Whether the clew is 1' or 5' (or more.. or less) off the deck, the length of the LP as a percentage of the "J" measurement does not change. A 90% jib will be a 90% jib no matter what the height of the clew off the deck, as long as the LP = 90% of the J measurement. Rod Johnson, "SUNBIRD" 1979 O'DAY DS II #10201 On Wed, 16 Dec 2009 18:05:51 -0800 Allen Edwards <al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com<mailto:al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com>> writes: Hi Charlie, I am not sure what you are getting at. It is certainly important to know the clew height in deciding if a sail will fit. On my boat the fact that the mast is at some angle and that the bow is up relative to the mast base is important to the tune of about a foot. However, I do not think these change the definition of LP. What I have neglected is that any luff hollow will subtract from the LP. I am just making a calculation on an ideal triangle and we all know sails are not ideal triangles. Here are the definitions. J: J Horizontal distance from mast to where the forward most jibstay intersects the deck, or jib tack. Note that 'JC' is no longer on this form. LP: The LP (Luff Perpendicular) of your jibs is determined by measuring the distance from the clew to the nearest point on the luff. This is done by holding the zero end of a tape measure at the clew (defined as the intersection of the leech and the foot), removing the wrinkles from the area to be measured, and swinging an arc up and down the luff, recording the minimum distance, then dividing by J and multiplying by 100. Allen On Wed, Dec 16, 2009 at 5:40 PM, Husar, Charlie [USA] <hu… [at] bah.com<mailto:hu… [at] bah.com>> wrote: Allen, would there not be a variable introduced based on the required height of the clew due to the boat's sheeting angle? Cheers Charlie Nutrition Improve your career health. Click now to study nutrition!<http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2142/c?cp=vYECyVdO-e-dKKEm1DNrigAAJ1CIixW8vmHn6WPZlsvVErEuAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAASQwAAAAA=>

I understand all the calculations and how it's done. Have measured many sails for many competitions. This is fine if someone already has a sail on the boat and knows it fits. My point was that one cannot use the LP as a determinant of whether a sail, yet unseen, is suitable to a boat because the clew height (which is admittedly unrelated to the LP) could be wrong for the boat even if the LP is exactly the desired value. Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Rodney G. Johnson Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2009 10:59 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] LP Calculator The LP has no real relationship to clew height. LP is purely a measurement of the length of a line drawn through the clew and perpendicular to the luff. Whether the clew is 1' or 5' (or more.. or less) off the deck, the length of the LP as a percentage of the "J" measurement does not change. A 90% jib will be a 90% jib no matter what the height of the clew off the deck, as long as the LP = 90% of the J measurement. Rod Johnson, "SUNBIRD" 1979 O'DAY DS II #10201 On Wed, 16 Dec 2009 18:05:51 -0800 Allen Edwards <al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com<mailto:al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com>> writes: Hi Charlie, I am not sure what you are getting at. It is certainly important to know the clew height in deciding if a sail will fit. On my boat the fact that the mast is at some angle and that the bow is up relative to the mast base is important to the tune of about a foot. However, I do not think these change the definition of LP. What I have neglected is that any luff hollow will subtract from the LP. I am just making a calculation on an ideal triangle and we all know sails are not ideal triangles. Here are the definitions. J: J Horizontal distance from mast to where the forward most jibstay intersects the deck, or jib tack. Note that 'JC' is no longer on this form. LP: The LP (Luff Perpendicular) of your jibs is determined by measuring the distance from the clew to the nearest point on the luff. This is done by holding the zero end of a tape measure at the clew (defined as the intersection of the leech and the foot), removing the wrinkles from the area to be measured, and swinging an arc up and down the luff, recording the minimum distance, then dividing by J and multiplying by 100. Allen On Wed, Dec 16, 2009 at 5:40 PM, Husar, Charlie [USA] <hu… [at] bah.com<mailto:hu… [at] bah.com>> wrote: Allen, would there not be a variable introduced based on the required height of the clew due to the boat's sheeting angle? Cheers Charlie Nutrition Improve your career health. Click now to study nutrition!<http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2142/c?cp=vYECyVdO-e-dKKEm1DNrigAAJ1CIixW8vmHn6WPZlsvVErEuAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAASQwAAAAA=>

Exactly. Much better to take the three measurements of the sides and just calculate the LP. Clew height is a little hard to calculate. I think you need information on the deck profile, I, and froestay length. If it is a #3, you don't need the deck profile but for example my deck is not flat, it slopes up toward the bow. Mast rake would also enter into it. Simplest thing is to measure the foot length back from the bow and then measure from that point to the top of the jib sheave. Subtract the leech length and you have clew height. Obviously you know all this but I am just thinking out loud. Probably too much for the calculator. Allen On Fri, Dec 18, 2009 at 5:20 PM, Husar, Charlie [USA] <hu… [at] bah.com > wrote: > > > I understand all the calculations and how it's done. Have measured many > sails for many competitions. This is fine if someone already has a sail on > the boat and knows it fits. > > My point was that one cannot use the LP as a determinant of whether a sail, > yet unseen, is suitable to a boat because the clew height (which is > admittedly unrelated to the LP) could be wrong for the boat even if the LP > is exactly the desired value. > > Cheers > Charlie > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] *On > Behalf Of *Rodney G. Johnson > *Sent:* Wednesday, December 16, 2009 10:59 PM > > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] LP Calculator > > The LP has no real relationship to clew height. LP is purely a > measurement of the length of a line drawn through the clew and perpendicular > to the luff. Whether the clew is 1' or 5' (or more.. or less) off the deck, > the length of the LP as a percentage of the "J" measurement does not change. > A 90% jib will be a 90% jib no matter what the height of the clew off the > deck, as long as the LP = 90% of the J measurement. > > Rod Johnson, > "SUNBIRD" > 1979 O'DAY DS II > #10201 > > On Wed, 16 Dec 2009 18:05:51 -0800 Allen Edwards < > al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com> writes: > > > > Hi Charlie, > > I am not sure what you are getting at. It is certainly important to know > the clew height in deciding if a sail will fit. On my boat the fact that > the mast is at some angle and that the bow is up relative to the mast base > is important to the tune of about a foot. However, I do not think these > change the definition of LP. What I have neglected is that any luff hollow > will subtract from the LP. I am just making a calculation on an ideal > triangle and we all know sails are not ideal triangles. Here are the > definitions. > > J: J Horizontal distance from mast to where the forward most jibstay > intersects the > deck, or jib tack. Note that ‘JC’ is no longer on this form. > > LP: The LP (Luff Perpendicular) of your > jibs is determined by measuring the distance from the clew to the nearest > point > on the luff. This is done by holding the zero end of a tape measure at the > clew > (defined as the intersection of the leech and the foot), removing the > wrinkles > from the area to be measured, and swinging an arc up and down the luff, > recording the minimum distance, then dividing by J and multiplying by 100. > > > Allen > > > > On Wed, Dec 16, 2009 at 5:40 PM, Husar, Charlie [USA] < > hu… [at] bah.com> wrote: > >> >> >> Allen, would there not be a variable introduced based on the required >> height of the clew due to the boat's sheeting angle? >> >> Cheers >> Charlie >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > ____________________________________________________________ > Nutrition > Improve your career health. Click now to study nutrition!<http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2142/c?cp=vYECyVdO-e-dKKEm1DNrigAAJ1CIixW8vmHn6WPZlsvVErEuAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAASQwAAAAA=> > > >

Charlie, I picked up on your concern and added a calculation of clew height to the LP calculator. This requires that you make some measurements of the boat but you probably are doing that anyway if you are trying to figure out if a used sail will fit your boat. I hope you like it. By the way, I races with an old sail that came with my boat. We had a very hard time on the one leg that was a beat. I am sure if I did these measurements with that sail that it would have a negative clew height. We should have moved the car back and let the sail twist up but instead we just scooped up the ocean with the foot. That stress put 5 sheer cracks 5 feet long in the hull. Allen On Fri, Dec 18, 2009 at 5:20 PM, Husar, Charlie [USA] <hu… [at] bah.com > wrote: > > > I understand all the calculations and how it's done. Have measured many > sails for many competitions. This is fine if someone already has a sail on > the boat and knows it fits. > > My point was that one cannot use the LP as a determinant of whether a sail, > yet unseen, is suitable to a boat because the clew height (which is > admittedly unrelated to the LP) could be wrong for the boat even if the LP > is exactly the desired value. > > Cheers > Charlie > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] *On > Behalf Of *Rodney G. Johnson > *Sent:* Wednesday, December 16, 2009 10:59 PM > > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] LP Calculator > > The LP has no real relationship to clew height. LP is purely a > measurement of the length of a line drawn through the clew and perpendicular > to the luff. Whether the clew is 1' or 5' (or more.. or less) off the deck, > the length of the LP as a percentage of the "J" measurement does not change. > A 90% jib will be a 90% jib no matter what the height of the clew off the > deck, as long as the LP = 90% of the J measurement. > > Rod Johnson, > "SUNBIRD" > 1979 O'DAY DS II > #10201 > > On Wed, 16 Dec 2009 18:05:51 -0800 Allen Edwards < > al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com> writes: > > > > Hi Charlie, > > I am not sure what you are getting at. It is certainly important to know > the clew height in deciding if a sail will fit. On my boat the fact that > the mast is at some angle and that the bow is up relative to the mast base > is important to the tune of about a foot. However, I do not think these > change the definition of LP. What I have neglected is that any luff hollow > will subtract from the LP. I am just making a calculation on an ideal > triangle and we all know sails are not ideal triangles. Here are the > definitions. > > J: J Horizontal distance from mast to where the forward most jibstay > intersects the > deck, or jib tack. Note that ‘JC’ is no longer on this form. > > LP: The LP (Luff Perpendicular) of your > jibs is determined by measuring the distance from the clew to the nearest > point > on the luff. This is done by holding the zero end of a tape measure at the > clew > (defined as the intersection of the leech and the foot), removing the > wrinkles > from the area to be measured, and swinging an arc up and down the luff, > recording the minimum distance, then dividing by J and multiplying by 100. > > > Allen > > > > On Wed, Dec 16, 2009 at 5:40 PM, Husar, Charlie [USA] < > hu… [at] bah.com> wrote: > >> >> >> Allen, would there not be a variable introduced based on the required >> height of the clew due to the boat's sheeting angle? >> >> Cheers >> Charlie >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > ____________________________________________________________ > Nutrition > Improve your career health. Click now to study nutrition!<http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2142/c?cp=vYECyVdO-e-dKKEm1DNrigAAJ1CIixW8vmHn6WPZlsvVErEuAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAASQwAAAAA=> > > >

Wow, very nice work. What size furring strips? Did you run them sideways or for/aft? How far apart? What name brand is the ballooning epoxy and did you need special brushes/rollers? Thanks, Nick "Jade" Cal 9.2 From: "timmothy lessley" <ti… [at] ch2m.com> To: "Cal Boats" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 7:51:20 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] Web site reminder My liner replacement effort on Freewind Removed the liner, screwed in furring strips and installed fiberglass shower panels, as it has nice liner edges. So far I really like it. As for the sides of the cabin, just faired it with ballooned fairing epoxy and painted with 1 part epoxy. Maybe not lighter - but very nice and easy access to bolt backsides. I also replaced the cabin lights (windows) with a system without screws. zero leaks in 5 years From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ng… [at] comcast.net Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 4:41 PM To: Cal Boats Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Web site reminder Hi, Thanks much, I pulled out the liner on my 9.2 and plan to replace it with something. The airline plastic liner faded, started cracking in many places and blocked sight of chainplates, etc. Besides my son said it all weighed about 50 lbs. Later, Nick "Jade" Cal 9.2 From: "roline" <ro… [at] charter.net> To: "Cal Boats" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 6:27:13 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Web site reminder Last project was converting to propane stove on a slide out mount with a stowage box behind.... I need to work on the prop shaft strut, but to get to the nuts on the inside, looks like I'l have to remove the engine to crawl in... Any suggestions?? http://www.angelfire.com/tn/santana525/cal92/cal92.html Eric ng… [at] comcast.net wrote: Roline, can you remind us of your web site name? Has it been updated with the recent project work you indicated you completed on your Cal 9.2? Thanks, Nick "Jade" Cal 9.2 From: "roline" <ro… [at] charter.net> To: "Cal Boats" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 6:06:13 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] LP Calculator When checking sail design, I always drew the line from the center of the luff through the clew to determine the nominal location of the turning block..... If you fold the sail luff on its self so that the clew is on the fold and measure the distance from the clew to the luff , this is the LP. On some deck sweapers this does not work.... Rodney G. Johnson wrote: The LP has no real relationship to clew height. LP is purely a measurement of the length of a line drawn through the clew and perpendicular to the luff. Whether the clew is 1' or 5' (or more.. or less) off the deck, the length of the LP as a percentage of the "J" measurement does not change. A 90% jib will be a 90% jib no matter what the height of the clew off the deck, as long as the LP = 90% of the J measurement. Rod Johnson, "SUNBIRD" 1979 O'DAY DS II #10201 On Wed, 16 Dec 2009 18:05:51 -0800 Allen Edwards < al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com > writes: Hi Charlie, I am not sure what you are getting at. It is certainly important to know the clew height in deciding if a sail will fit. On my boat the fact that the mast is at some angle and that the bow is up relative to the mast base is important to the tune of about a foot. However, I do not think these change the definition of LP. What I have neglected is that any luff hollow will subtract from the LP. I am just making a calculation on an ideal triangle and we all know sails are not ideal triangles. Here are the definitions. J: J Horizontal distance from mast to where the forward most jibstay intersects the deck, or jib tack. Note that ‘JC’ is no longer on this form. LP: The LP (Luff Perpendicular) of your jibs is determined by measuring the distance from the clew to the nearest point on the luff. This is done by holding the zero end of a tape measure at the clew (defined as the intersection of the leech and the foot), removing the wrinkles from the area to be measured, and swinging an arc up and down the luff, recording the minimum distance, then dividing by J and multiplying by 100. Allen On Wed, Dec 16, 2009 at 5:40 PM, Husar, Charlie [USA] < hu… [at] bah.com > wrote: Allen, would there not be a variable introduced based on the required height of the clew due to the boat's sheeting angle? Cheers Charlie Nutrition Improve your career health. Click now to study nutrition!

The furring strips are under the "buttons" covering the screws and the trim strips that you see in the photos. I used wooden bats about 1/2" x 2" glued and screwed into the cored head of the cabin to secure. For the epoxy fairing compound, I used 410 Microlight filler by West System. It is lightweight and incredibly easy to sand and fair. I have had the best luck, and highly recommend Either the West Marine 1 part epoxy paint, which is the same as Pettite's. I have had bad luck with Interlux, which seems to have lower pigment content (coverage) and tends to sag and run worse than Pettit. The Petite finish is simply "bullet proof".. here's another shot showing the ceiling in the head... and our keel stepped mast modification. dEmO [cid:156381518@21122009-09BC] From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ng… [at] comcast.net Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2009 7:09 AM To: Cal Boats Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Web site reminder Wow, very nice work. What size furring strips? Did you run them sideways or for/aft? How far apart? What name brand is the ballooning epoxy and did you need special brushes/rollers? Thanks, Nick "Jade" Cal 9.2 From: "timmothy lessley" <ti… [at] ch2m.com> To: "Cal Boats" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 7:51:20 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] Web site reminder My liner replacement effort on Freewind Removed the liner, screwed in furring strips and installed fiberglass shower panels, as it has nice liner edges. So far I really like it. As for the sides of the cabin, just faired it with ballooned fairing epoxy and painted with 1 part epoxy. Maybe not lighter - but very nice and easy access to bolt backsides. I also replaced the cabin lights (windows) with a system without screws. zero leaks in 5 years [cid:156381518@21122009-0992][cid:156381518@21122009-0999] [cid:156381518@21122009-09A0][cid:156381518@21122009-09A7] [cid:156381518@21122009-09AE][cid:156381518@21122009-09B5] From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ng… [at] comcast.net Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 4:41 PM To: Cal Boats Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Web site reminder Hi, Thanks much, I pulled out the liner on my 9.2 and plan to replace it with something. The airline plastic liner faded, started cracking in many places and blocked sight of chainplates, etc. Besides my son said it all weighed about 50 lbs. Later, Nick "Jade" Cal 9.2 From: "roline" <ro… [at] charter.net> To: "Cal Boats" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 6:27:13 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Web site reminder Last project was converting to propane stove on a slide out mount with a stowage box behind.... I need to work on the prop shaft strut, but to get to the nuts on the inside, looks like I'l have to remove the engine to crawl in... Any suggestions?? http://www.angelfire.com/tn/santana525/cal92/cal92.html Eric ng… [at] comcast.net<mailto:ng… [at] comcast.net> wrote: Roline, can you remind us of your web site name? Has it been updated with the recent project work you indicated you completed on your Cal 9.2? Thanks, Nick "Jade" Cal 9.2 From: "roline" <ro… [at] charter.net> To: "Cal Boats" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 6:06:13 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] LP Calculator When checking sail design, I always drew the line from the center of the luff through the clew to determine the nominal location of the turning block..... If you fold the sail luff on its self so that the clew is on the fold and measure the distance from the clew to the luff , this is the LP. On some deck sweapers this does not work.... Rodney G. Johnson wrote: The LP has no real relationship to clew height. LP is purely a measurement of the length of a line drawn through the clew and perpendicular to the luff. Whether the clew is 1' or 5' (or more.. or less) off the deck, the length of the LP as a percentage of the "J" measurement does not change. A 90% jib will be a 90% jib no matter what the height of the clew off the deck, as long as the LP = 90% of the J measurement. Rod Johnson, "SUNBIRD" 1979 O'DAY DS II #10201 On Wed, 16 Dec 2009 18:05:51 -0800 Allen Edwards <al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com<mailto:al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com>> writes: Hi Charlie, I am not sure what you are getting at. It is certainly important to know the clew height in deciding if a sail will fit. On my boat the fact that the mast is at some angle and that the bow is up relative to the mast base is important to the tune of about a foot. However, I do not think these change the definition of LP. What I have neglected is that any luff hollow will subtract from the LP. I am just making a calculation on an ideal triangle and we all know sails are not ideal triangles. Here are the definitions. J: J Horizontal distance from mast to where the forward most jibstay intersects the deck, or jib tack. Note that 'JC' is no longer on this form. LP: The LP (Luff Perpendicular) of your jibs is determined by measuring the distance from the clew to the nearest point on the luff. This is done by holding the zero end of a tape measure at the clew (defined as the intersection of the leech and the foot), removing the wrinkles from the area to be measured, and swinging an arc up and down the luff, recording the minimum distance, then dividing by J and multiplying by 100. Allen On Wed, Dec 16, 2009 at 5:40 PM, Husar, Charlie [USA] <hu… [at] bah.com<mailto:hu… [at] bah.com>> wrote: Allen, would there not be a variable introduced based on the required height of the clew due to the boat's sheeting angle? Cheers Charlie Nutrition Improve your career health. Click now to study nutrition!<http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2142/c?cp=vYECyVdO-e-dKKEm1DNrigAAJ1CIixW8vmHn6WPZlsvVErEuAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAASQwAAAAA=>

continued... simply mixed up the balloon mixture and used Auto-body type plastic squeegees, just like a bondo job. First did the rough shaping and flattening sanding with 60 grit, applied another skim coat of fairing and finished with 80-120 grit followed by a finer grade to remove most of the sanding swirls. Mostly two coats of Pettit did the job. I did the basic job in one weekend using heaters in the summer - with extra days for paint curing. From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ti… [at] ch2m.com Sent: Monday, December 21, 2009 10:31 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: [Cal_Boats] RE: Cal 9.2 Headliner Replacement (Nick) The furring strips are under the "buttons" covering the screws and the trim strips that you see in the photos. I used wooden bats about 1/2" x 2" glued and screwed into the cored head of the cabin to secure. For the epoxy fairing compound, I used 410 Microlight filler by West System. It is lightweight and incredibly easy to sand and fair. I have had the best luck, and highly recommend Either the West Marine 1 part epoxy paint, which is the same as Pettite's. I have had bad luck with Interlux, which seems to have lower pigment content (coverage) and tends to sag and run worse than Pettit. The Petite finish is simply "bullet proof".. here's another shot showing the ceiling in the head... and our keel stepped mast modification. dEmO [cid:725274418@21122009-09C3] From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ng… [at] comcast.net Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2009 7:09 AM To: Cal Boats Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Web site reminder Wow, very nice work. What size furring strips? Did you run them sideways or for/aft? How far apart? What name brand is the ballooning epoxy and did you need special brushes/rollers? Thanks, Nick "Jade" Cal 9.2 From: "timmothy lessley" <ti… [at] ch2m.com> To: "Cal Boats" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 7:51:20 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] Web site reminder My liner replacement effort on Freewind Removed the liner, screwed in furring strips and installed fiberglass shower panels, as it has nice liner edges. So far I really like it. As for the sides of the cabin, just faired it with ballooned fairing epoxy and painted with 1 part epoxy. Maybe not lighter - but very nice and easy access to bolt backsides. I also replaced the cabin lights (windows) with a system without screws. zero leaks in 5 years [cid:725274418@21122009-09CA][cid:725274418@21122009-09D1] [cid:725274418@21122009-09D8][cid:725274418@21122009-09DF] [cid:725274418@21122009-09E6][cid:725274418@21122009-09ED] From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ng… [at] comcast.net Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 4:41 PM To: Cal Boats Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Web site reminder Hi, Thanks much, I pulled out the liner on my 9.2 and plan to replace it with something. The airline plastic liner faded, started cracking in many places and blocked sight of chainplates, etc. Besides my son said it all weighed about 50 lbs. Later, Nick "Jade" Cal 9.2 From: "roline" <ro… [at] charter.net> To: "Cal Boats" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 6:27:13 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Web site reminder Last project was converting to propane stove on a slide out mount with a stowage box behind.... I need to work on the prop shaft strut, but to get to the nuts on the inside, looks like I'l have to remove the engine to crawl in... Any suggestions?? http://www.angelfire.com/tn/santana525/cal92/cal92.html Eric ng… [at] comcast.net<mailto:ng… [at] comcast.net> wrote: Roline, can you remind us of your web site name? Has it been updated with the recent project work you indicated you completed on your Cal 9.2? Thanks, Nick "Jade" Cal 9.2 From: "roline" <ro… [at] charter.net> To: "Cal Boats" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 6:06:13 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] LP Calculator When checking sail design, I always drew the line from the center of the luff through the clew to determine the nominal location of the turning block..... If you fold the sail luff on its self so that the clew is on the fold and measure the distance from the clew to the luff , this is the LP. On some deck sweapers this does not work.... Rodney G. Johnson wrote: The LP has no real relationship to clew height. LP is purely a measurement of the length of a line drawn through the clew and perpendicular to the luff. Whether the clew is 1' or 5' (or more.. or less) off the deck, the length of the LP as a percentage of the "J" measurement does not change. A 90% jib will be a 90% jib no matter what the height of the clew off the deck, as long as the LP = 90% of the J measurement. Rod Johnson, "SUNBIRD" 1979 O'DAY DS II #10201 On Wed, 16 Dec 2009 18:05:51 -0800 Allen Edwards <al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com<mailto:al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com>> writes: Hi Charlie, I am not sure what you are getting at. It is certainly important to know the clew height in deciding if a sail will fit. On my boat the fact that the mast is at some angle and that the bow is up relative to the mast base is important to the tune of about a foot. However, I do not think these change the definition of LP. What I have neglected is that any luff hollow will subtract from the LP. I am just making a calculation on an ideal triangle and we all know sails are not ideal triangles. Here are the definitions. J: J Horizontal distance from mast to where the forward most jibstay intersects the deck, or jib tack. Note that 'JC' is no longer on this form. LP: The LP (Luff Perpendicular) of your jibs is determined by measuring the distance from the clew to the nearest point on the luff. This is done by holding the zero end of a tape measure at the clew (defined as the intersection of the leech and the foot), removing the wrinkles from the area to be measured, and swinging an arc up and down the luff, recording the minimum distance, then dividing by J and multiplying by 100. Allen On Wed, Dec 16, 2009 at 5:40 PM, Husar, Charlie [USA] <hu… [at] bah.com<mailto:hu… [at] bah.com>> wrote: Allen, would there not be a variable introduced based on the required height of the clew due to the boat's sheeting angle? Cheers Charlie Nutrition Improve your career health. Click now to study nutrition!<http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2142/c?cp=vYECyVdO-e-dKKEm1DNrigAAJ1CIixW8vmHn6WPZlsvVErEuAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAASQwAAAAA=>

Tim, I am completely incompetent when it comes to troweling on compound and getting it smooth. I usually put on 10 coats, sand off 9 of them, and the job still doesn't look good. The whole process makes an amount of dust that could usher in another Ice Age. I was toying with the idea of using the 410 fairing filler, putting it on with a squeegee, and using a foam roller lightly to try and even it out. I would not be upset if it ended up with a sort of orange peel like result. Based on your experience do you think that could work? Regards, Wayne From: "ti… [at] ch2m.com" <ti… [at] ch2m.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Mon, December 21, 2009 1:51:20 PM Subject: [Cal_Boats] RE: Cal 9.2 Headliner Replacement (Nick) continued... simply mixed up the balloon mixture and used Auto-body type plastic squeegees, just like a bondo job. First did the rough shaping and flattening sanding with 60 grit, applied another skim coat of fairing and finished with 80-120 grit followed by a finer grade to remove most of the sanding swirls. Mostly two coats of Pettit did the job. I did the basic job in one weekend using heaters in the summer - with extra days for paint curing. From: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com [mailto:Cal_ Boats@yahoogroup s.com] On Behalf Of timmothy.lessley@ ch2m.com Sent: Monday, December 21, 2009 10:31 AM To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Subject: [Cal_Boats] RE: Cal 9.2 Headliner Replacement (Nick) The furring strips are under the "buttons" covering the screws and the trim strips that you see in the photos. I used wooden bats about 1/2" x 2" glued and screwed into the cored head of the cabin to secure. For the epoxy fairing compound, I used 410 Microlight filler by West System. It is lightweight and incredibly easy to sand and fair. I have had the best luck, and highly recommend Either the West Marine 1 part epoxy paint, which is the same as Pettite's. I have had bad luck with Interlux, which seems to have lower pigment content (coverage) and tends to sag and run worse than Pettit. The Petite finish is simply "bullet proof".. here's another shot showing the ceiling in the head... and our keel stepped mast modification. dEmO From: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com [mailto:Cal_ Boats@yahoogroup s.com] On Behalf Of ngeisz741@comcast. net Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2009 7:09 AM To: Cal Boats Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Web site reminder Wow, very nice work. What size furring strips? Did you run them sideways or for/aft? How far apart? What name brand is the ballooning epoxy and did you need special brushes/rollers? Thanks, Nick "Jade" Cal 9.2 From: "timmothy lessley" <timmothy.lessley@ ch2m.com> To: "Cal Boats" <Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com> Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 7:51:20 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] Web site reminder My liner replacement effort on Freewind Removed the liner, screwed in furring strips and installed fiberglass shower panels, as it has nice liner edges. So far I really like it. As for the sides of the cabin, just faired it with ballooned fairing epoxy and painted with 1 part epoxy. Maybe not lighter - but very nice and easy access to bolt backsides. I also replaced the cabin lights (windows) with a system without screws. zero leaks in 5 years From: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com [mailto:Cal_ Boats@yahoogroup s.com] On Behalf Of ngeisz741@comcast. net Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 4:41 PM To: Cal Boats Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Web site reminder Hi, Thanks much, I pulled out the liner on my 9.2 and plan to replace it with something. The airline plastic liner faded, started cracking in many places and blocked sight of chainplates, etc. Besides my son said it all weighed about 50 lbs. Later, Nick "Jade" Cal 9.2 From: "roline" <roline@charter. net> To: "Cal Boats" <Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com> Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 6:27:13 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Web site reminder Last project was converting to propane stove on a slide out mount with a stowage box behind.... I need to work on the prop shaft strut, but to get to the nuts on the inside, looks like I'l have to remove the engine to crawl in... Any suggestions? ? http://www.angelfir e.com/tn/ santana525/ cal92/cal92. html Eric ngeisz741@comcast. net wrote: > >Roline, can you remind us of your web site name? Has it been > updated with the recent project work you indicated you completed on > your Cal 9.2? > >Thanks, Nick "Jade" Cal 9.2 > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "roline" > <roline@charter. net> >To: "Cal Boats" > <Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com> >Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 > 6:06:13 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern >Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] LP > Calculator > > >When checking sail design, I always drew the line from the center of the > luff through the clew to determine the nominal location of the turning > block..... >If you fold the sail luff on its self so that the clew is > on the fold and measure the distance from the clew to the > luff , this is the LP. >On some deck sweapers this does not > work.... > > > > >Rodney G. Johnson wrote: > > >>The LP has no real relationship to clew height. LP is purely a >> measurement of the length of a line drawn through the clew and perpendicular >> to the luff. Whether the clew is 1' or 5' (or more.. or less) off the deck, >> the length of the LP as a percentage of the "J" measurement does not change. >> A 90% jib will be a 90% jib no matter what the height of the clew off the >> deck, as long as the LP = 90% of the J measurement. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Rod Johnson, "SUNBIRD" >> >> >> >> >> >> >> 1979 O'DAY DS II #10201 >> >>On Wed, 16 Dec 2009 18:05:51 -0800 Allen Edwards <allen.edwards@ PaloAltoPhoto. com> >>writes: >> >>>Hi Charlie, >>> >>> >>>I am not sure what you are getting at. It is certainly >>> important to know the clew height in deciding if a sail will fit. On >>> my boat the fact that the mast is at some angle and that the bow is up >>> relative to the mast base is important to the tune of about a foot. >>> However, I do not think these change the definition of LP. >>> What I have neglected is that any luff hollow >>> will subtract from the LP. I am just making a calculation >>> on an ideal triangle and we all know sails are not ideal triangles. >>> Here are the definitions. >>> >>> >>>J: J Horizontal distance from mast to where the forward most >>> jibstay intersects the >>>deck, or jib tack. Note that ‘JC’ is no longer on this form. >>> >>>LP: The LP (Luff Perpendicular) of your >>> >>>jibs is determined by measuring the distance from the clew to the >>> nearest point >>>on the luff. This is done by holding the zero end of a tape measure >>> at the clew >>>(defined as the intersection of the leech and the foot), removing the >>> wrinkles >>>from the area to be measured, and swinging an arc up and down the >>> luff, >>>recording the minimum distance, then dividing by J and multiplying by >>> 100. >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>Allen >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>On Wed, Dec 16, 2009 at 5:40 PM, Husar, Charlie >>> [USA] <husar_charlie@ bah.com> wrote: >>> >>> >>>>Allen, would there not be a >>>> variable introduced based on the required height of the clew due to the >>>> boat's sheeting angle? >>>> >>>>Cheers >>>>Charlie >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >> >>____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ ___ >> >>Nutrition >>Improve your career health. Click now to study >> nutrition! >> >

I never get the last little pits out of the epoxy so I have taken to this process that may be helpful. I basically follow this process http://www.westsystem.com/ss/fairing/ <http://www.westsystem.com/ss/fairing/>I use the 407 for everything now as it is strong enough and easy to sand but perhaps 410 is better for what we are discussing here. But after sanding there are always little pits that need filling. I then use this http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2089 <http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2089>which drys in about 15 minutes and is easy to sand. There is nothing magic about the brand, it is just what the store had. The point is, don't feel bad if you can't get the epoxy on perfectly and have some imperfections in the surface when you are done sanding, just deal with it. This process saves me a day over what I used to do. Allen On Mon, Dec 21, 2009 at 11:49 AM, Wayne Gillikin <wa… [at] yahoo.com>wrote: > Tim, > > I am completely incompetent when it comes to troweling on compound and > getting it smooth. I usually put on 10 coats, sand off 9 of them, and the > job still doesn't look good. The whole process makes an amount of dust that > could usher in another Ice Age. I was toying with the idea of using the 410 > fairing filler, putting it on with a squeegee, and using a foam roller > lightly to try and even it out. I would not be upset if it ended up with a > sort of orange peel like result. Based on your experience do you think that > could work? > > Regards, > Wayne > > ------------------------------ > *From:* "ti… [at] ch2m.com" <ti… [at] ch2m.com> > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > *Sent:* Mon, December 21, 2009 1:51:20 PM > *Subject:* [Cal_Boats] RE: Cal 9.2 Headliner Replacement (Nick) > > > > continued... simply mixed up the balloon mixture and used Auto-body type > plastic squeegees, just like a bondo job. > > First did the rough shaping and flattening sanding with 60 grit, applied > another skim coat of fairing and finished with 80-120 grit followed by a > finer grade to remove most of the sanding swirls. > > Mostly two coats of Pettit did the job. I did the basic job in one weekend > using heaters in the summer - with extra days for paint curing. > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com [mailto:Cal_ Boats@yahoogroup s.com] *On > Behalf Of *timmothy.lessley@ ch2m.com > *Sent:* Monday, December 21, 2009 10:31 AM > *To:* Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com > *Subject:* [Cal_Boats] RE: Cal 9.2 Headliner Replacement (Nick) > > > > The furring strips are under the "buttons" covering the screws and the trim > strips that you see in the photos. > > I used wooden bats about 1/2" x 2" glued and screwed into the cored head of > the cabin to secure. > > For the epoxy fairing compound, I used 410 Microlight filler by West > System. It is lightweight and incredibly easy to sand and fair. > > I have had the best luck, and highly recommend Either the West Marine 1 > part epoxy paint, which is the same as Pettite's. > > I have had bad luck with Interlux, which seems to have lower pigment > content (coverage) and tends to sag and run worse than Pettit. > > The Petite finish is simply "bullet proof".. here's another shot showing > the ceiling in the head... and our keel stepped mast modification. > > dEmO > > > > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com [mailto:Cal_ Boats@yahoogroup s.com] *On > Behalf Of *ngeisz741@comcast. net > *Sent:* Sunday, December 20, 2009 7:09 AM > *To:* Cal Boats > *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] Web site reminder > > Wow, very nice work. What size furring strips? Did you run them > sideways or for/aft? How far apart? > > What name brand is the ballooning epoxy and did you need special > brushes/rollers? > > > > Thanks, Nick "Jade" Cal 9.2 > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "timmothy lessley" <timmothy.lessley@ ch2m.com> > To: "Cal Boats" <Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com> > Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 7:51:20 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern > Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] Web site reminder > > > > My liner replacement effort on Freewind > > Removed the liner, screwed in furring strips and installed fiberglass > shower panels, as it has nice liner edges. > > So far I really like it. > > As for the sides of the cabin, just faired it with ballooned fairing epoxy > and painted with 1 part epoxy. > > Maybe not lighter - but very nice and easy access to bolt backsides. I also > replaced the cabin lights (windows) with a system without screws. > > zero leaks in 5 years > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com [mailto:Cal_ Boats@yahoogroup s.com] *On > Behalf Of *ngeisz741@comcast. net > *Sent:* Thursday, December 17, 2009 4:41 PM > *To:* Cal Boats > *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] Web site reminder > > > > Hi, Thanks much, I pulled out the liner on my 9.2 and plan to replace > it with something. The airline plastic liner faded, started cracking in many > places and blocked sight of chainplates, etc. Besides my son said it all > weighed about 50 lbs. > > > > Later, Nick "Jade" Cal 9.2 > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "roline" <roline@charter. net> > To: "Cal Boats" <Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com> > Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 6:27:13 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Web site reminder > > > > Last project was converting to propane stove on a slide out mount with a > stowage box behind.... > I need to work on the prop shaft strut, but to get to the nuts on the > inside, looks like I'l have to remove the engine to crawl in... > Any suggestions? ? > > http://www.angelfir e.com/tn/ santana525/ cal92/cal92. html<http://www.angelfire.com/tn/santana525/cal92/cal92.html> > Eric > > ngeisz741@comcast. net <ng… [at] comcast.net> wrote: > > > > Roline, can you remind us of your web site name? Has it been updated with > the recent project work you indicated you completed on your Cal 9.2? > > > > Thanks, Nick "Jade" Cal 9.2 > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "roline" <roline@charter. net> > To: "Cal Boats" <Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com> > Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 6:06:13 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] LP Calculator > > > > When checking sail design, I always drew the line from the center of the > luff through the clew to determine the nominal location of the turning > block..... > If you fold the sail luff on its self so that the clew is on the fold and > measure the distance from the clew to the luff , this is the LP. > On some deck sweapers this does not work.... > > > > > Rodney G. Johnson wrote: > > > The LP has no real relationship to clew height. LP is purely a measurement > of the length of a line drawn through the clew and perpendicular to the > luff. Whether the clew is 1' or 5' (or more.. or less) off the deck, the > length of the LP as a percentage of the "J" measurement does not change. A > 90% jib will be a 90% jib no matter what the height of the clew off the > deck, as long as the LP = 90% of the J measurement. > > Rod Johnson, > "SUNBIRD" > 1979 O'DAY DS II > #10201 > > On Wed, 16 Dec 2009 18:05:51 -0800 Allen Edwards <allen.edwards@ > PaloAltoPhoto. com <al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com>> writes: > > > > Hi Charlie, > > I am not sure what you are getting at. It is certainly important to know > the clew height in deciding if a sail will fit. On my boat the fact that > the mast is at some angle and that the bow is up relative to the mast base > is important to the tune of about a foot. However, I do not think these > change the definition of LP. What I have neglected is that any luff hollow > will subtract from the LP. I am just making a calculation on an ideal > triangle and we all know sails are not ideal triangles. Here are the > definitions. > > J: J Horizontal distance from mast to where the forward most jibstay > intersects the > deck, or jib tack. Note that ‘JC’ is no longer on this form. > > LP: The LP (Luff Perpendicular) of your > jibs is determined by measuring the distance from the clew to the nearest > point > on the luff. This is done by holding the zero end of a tape measure at the > clew > (defined as the intersection of the leech and the foot), removing the > wrinkles > from the area to be measured, and swinging an arc up and down the luff, > recording the minimum distance, then dividing by J and multiplying by 100. > > > Allen > > > > On Wed, Dec 16, 2009 at 5:40 PM, Husar, Charlie [USA] <husar_charlie@ > bah.com <hu… [at] bah.com>> wrote: > >> >> Allen, would there not be a variable introduced based on the required >> height of the clew due to the boat's sheeting angle? >> >> Cheers >> Charlie >> >> >> >> > > > > > > ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ ___ > Nutrition > Improve your career health. Click now to study nutrition!<http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2142/c?cp=vYECyVdO-e-dKKEm1DNrigAAJ1CIixW8vmHn6WPZlsvVErEuAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAASQwAAAAA=> > > > > >

You might have some success if you put "saran wrap" over the filler, and then rolled that... You should first make sure that the saran wrap releases okay in a test.. but my guess it that it would. The main reason to first apply a nice thick complete "rough coat" and then sand with 60 grit long board is that it will very quickly make the surface flat... the final skim coat fills in any ridges and rough sanding scratches. this final coat is typically of very minimal thickness, just wetting most of the surface, and filling the lower gouges, almost like using a squeegee to clean a window. I know you can do it! dEmO From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Wayne Gillikin Sent: Monday, December 21, 2009 11:50 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] RE: Cal 9.2 Headliner Replacement (Tim) Tim, I am completely incompetent when it comes to troweling on compound and getting it smooth. I usually put on 10 coats, sand off 9 of them, and the job still doesn't look good. The whole process makes an amount of dust that could usher in another Ice Age. I was toying with the idea of using the 410 fairing filler, putting it on with a squeegee, and using a foam roller lightly to try and even it out. I would not be upset if it ended up with a sort of orange peel like result. Based on your experience do you think that could work? Regards, Wayne From: "ti… [at] ch2m.com" <ti… [at] ch2m.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Mon, December 21, 2009 1:51:20 PM Subject: [Cal_Boats] RE: Cal 9.2 Headliner Replacement (Nick) continued... simply mixed up the balloon mixture and used Auto-body type plastic squeegees, just like a bondo job. First did the rough shaping and flattening sanding with 60 grit, applied another skim coat of fairing and finished with 80-120 grit followed by a finer grade to remove most of the sanding swirls. Mostly two coats of Pettit did the job. I did the basic job in one weekend using heaters in the summer - with extra days for paint curing. From: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com<http://ps.com> [mailto:Cal_ Boats@yahoogroup s.com<http://s.com>] On Behalf Of timmothy.lessley@ ch2m.com<http://ch2m.com> Sent: Monday, December 21, 2009 10:31 AM To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Subject: [Cal_Boats] RE: Cal 9.2 Headliner Replacement (Nick) The furring strips are under the "buttons" covering the screws and the trim strips that you see in the photos. I used wooden bats about 1/2" x 2" glued and screwed into the cored head of the cabin to secure. For the epoxy fairing compound, I used 410 Microlight filler by West System. It is lightweight and incredibly easy to sand and fair. I have had the best luck, and highly recommend Either the West Marine 1 part epoxy paint, which is the same as Pettite's. I have had bad luck with Interlux, which seems to have lower pigment content (coverage) and tends to sag and run worse than Pettit. The Petite finish is simply "bullet proof".. here's another shot showing the ceiling in the head... and our keel stepped mast modification. dEmO [cid:554545019@21122009-09F4] From: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com [mailto:Cal_ Boats@yahoogroup s.com] On Behalf Of ngeisz741@comcast. net Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2009 7:09 AM To: Cal Boats Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Web site reminder Wow, very nice work. What size furring strips? Did you run them sideways or for/aft? How far apart? What name brand is the ballooning epoxy and did you need special brushes/rollers? Thanks, Nick "Jade" Cal 9.2 From: "timmothy lessley" <timmothy.lessley@ ch2m.com> To: "Cal Boats" <Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com> Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 7:51:20 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] Web site reminder My liner replacement effort on Freewind Removed the liner, screwed in furring strips and installed fiberglass shower panels, as it has nice liner edges. So far I really like it. As for the sides of the cabin, just faired it with ballooned fairing epoxy and painted with 1 part epoxy. Maybe not lighter - but very nice and easy access to bolt backsides. I also replaced the cabin lights (windows) with a system without screws. zero leaks in 5 years [cid:554545019@21122009-09FB][cid:554545019@21122009-0A02] [cid:554545019@21122009-0A09][cid:554545019@21122009-0A10] [cid:554545019@21122009-0A17][cid:554545019@21122009-0A1E] From: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com [mailto:Cal_ Boats@yahoogroup s.com] On Behalf Of ngeisz741@comcast. net Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 4:41 PM To: Cal Boats Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Web site reminder Hi, Thanks much, I pulled out the liner on my 9.2 and plan to replace it with something. The airline plastic liner faded, started cracking in many places and blocked sight of chainplates, etc. Besides my son said it all weighed about 50 lbs. Later, Nick "Jade" Cal 9.2 From: "roline" <roline@charter. net> To: "Cal Boats" <Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com> Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 6:27:13 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Web site reminder Last project was converting to propane stove on a slide out mount with a stowage box behind.... I need to work on the prop shaft strut, but to get to the nuts on the inside, looks like I'l have to remove the engine to crawl in... Any suggestions? ? http://www.angelfir e.com/tn/ santana525/ cal92/cal92. html<http://www.angelfire.com/tn/santana525/cal92/cal92.html> Eric ngeisz741@comcast. net<mailto:ng… [at] comcast.net> wrote: Roline, can you remind us of your web site name? Has it been updated with the recent project work you indicated you completed on your Cal 9.2? Thanks, Nick "Jade" Cal 9.2 From: "roline" <roline@charter. net> To: "Cal Boats" <Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com> Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 6:06:13 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] LP Calculator When checking sail design, I always drew the line from the center of the luff through the clew to determine the nominal location of the turning block..... If you fold the sail luff on its self so that the clew is on the fold and measure the distance from the clew to the luff , this is the LP. On some deck sweapers this does not work.... Rodney G. Johnson wrote: The LP has no real relationship to clew height. LP is purely a measurement of the length of a line drawn through the clew and perpendicular to the luff. Whether the clew is 1' or 5' (or more.. or less) off the deck, the length of the LP as a percentage of the "J" measurement does not change. A 90% jib will be a 90% jib no matter what the height of the clew off the deck, as long as the LP = 90% of the J measurement. Rod Johnson, "SUNBIRD" 1979 O'DAY DS II #10201 On Wed, 16 Dec 2009 18:05:51 -0800 Allen Edwards <allen.edwards@ PaloAltoPhoto. com<mailto:al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com>> writes: Hi Charlie, I am not sure what you are getting at. It is certainly important to know the clew height in deciding if a sail will fit. On my boat the fact that the mast is at some angle and that the bow is up relative to the mast base is important to the tune of about a foot. However, I do not think these change the definition of LP. What I have neglected is that any luff hollow will subtract from the LP. I am just making a calculation on an ideal triangle and we all know sails are not ideal triangles. Here are the definitions. J: J Horizontal distance from mast to where the forward most jibstay intersects the deck, or jib tack. Note that 'JC' is no longer on this form. LP: The LP (Luff Perpendicular) of your jibs is determined by measuring the distance from the clew to the nearest point on the luff. This is done by holding the zero end of a tape measure at the clew (defined as the intersection of the leech and the foot), removing the wrinkles from the area to be measured, and swinging an arc up and down the luff, recording the minimum distance, then dividing by J and multiplying by 100. Allen On Wed, Dec 16, 2009 at 5:40 PM, Husar, Charlie [USA] <husar_charlie@ bah.com<mailto:hu… [at] bah.com>> wrote: Allen, would there not be a variable introduced based on the required height of the clew due to the boat's sheeting angle? Cheers Charlie ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ ___ Nutrition Improve your career health. Click now to study nutrition!<http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2142/c?cp=vYECyVdO-e-dKKEm1DNrigAAJ1CIixW8vmHn6WPZlsvVErEuAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAASQwAAAAA=>

Let me just add that one of these http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-ROS20VSK-120-Volt-Variable-Random/dp/B0018Z8D64 <http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-ROS20VSK-120-Volt-Variable-Random/dp/B0018Z8D64>and a small portable shop vac is one of the best upgrades I have ever made in my tool collection. Almost no dust. This is very important as I sand my hull and any dust in the water is a huge no-no. If I had to go but a shop vac today (and I have 4) I would get one of these http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00917776000P?vName=Tools&cName=Shop+Vacs+%26+Dust+Collection&sName=Wet-Dry+Vacuums <http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00917776000P?vName=Tools&cName=Shop+Vacs+%26+Dust+Collection&sName=Wet-Dry+Vacuums>Although these http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=8791&familyName=Festool+CT+MIDI+Dust+Extractor are probably better :-) Allen On Mon, Dec 21, 2009 at 1:54 PM, <ti… [at] ch2m.com> wrote: > > > You might have some success if you put "saran wrap" over the filler, and > then rolled that... You should first make sure that the saran wrap releases > okay in a test.. but my guess it that it would. > > The main reason to first apply a nice thick complete "rough coat" and then > sand with 60 grit long board is that it will very quickly make the surface > flat... the final skim coat fills in any ridges and rough sanding scratches. > > > this final coat is typically of very minimal thickness, just wetting most > of the surface, and filling the lower gouges, almost like using a squeegee > to clean a window. > > I know you can do it! > > dEmO > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] *On > Behalf Of *Wayne Gillikin > *Sent:* Monday, December 21, 2009 11:50 AM > > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] RE: Cal 9.2 Headliner Replacement (Tim) > > Tim, > > I am completely incompetent when it comes to troweling on compound and > getting it smooth. I usually put on 10 coats, sand off 9 of them, and the > job still doesn't look good. The whole process makes an amount of dust that > could usher in another Ice Age. I was toying with the idea of using the 410 > fairing filler, putting it on with a squeegee, and using a foam roller > lightly to try and even it out. I would not be upset if it ended up with a > sort of orange peel like result. Based on your experience do you think that > could work? > > Regards, > Wayne > > ------------------------------ > *From:* "ti… [at] ch2m.com" <ti… [at] ch2m.com> > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > *Sent:* Mon, December 21, 2009 1:51:20 PM > *Subject:* [Cal_Boats] RE: Cal 9.2 Headliner Replacement (Nick) > > > > continued... simply mixed up the balloon mixture and used Auto-body type > plastic squeegees, just like a bondo job. > > First did the rough shaping and flattening sanding with 60 grit, applied > another skim coat of fairing and finished with 80-120 grit followed by a > finer grade to remove most of the sanding swirls. > > Mostly two coats of Pettit did the job. I did the basic job in one weekend > using heaters in the summer - with extra days for paint curing. > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com [mailto:Cal_ Boats@yahoogroup s.com] *On > Behalf Of *timmothy.lessley@ ch2m.com > *Sent:* Monday, December 21, 2009 10:31 AM > *To:* Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com > *Subject:* [Cal_Boats] RE: Cal 9.2 Headliner Replacement (Nick) > > > > The furring strips are under the "buttons" covering the screws and the trim > strips that you see in the photos. > > I used wooden bats about 1/2" x 2" glued and screwed into the cored head of > the cabin to secure. > > For the epoxy fairing compound, I used 410 Microlight filler by West > System. It is lightweight and incredibly easy to sand and fair. > > I have had the best luck, and highly recommend Either the West Marine 1 > part epoxy paint, which is the same as Pettite's. > > I have had bad luck with Interlux, which seems to have lower pigment > content (coverage) and tends to sag and run worse than Pettit. > > The Petite finish is simply "bullet proof".. here's another shot showing > the ceiling in the head... and our keel stepped mast modification. > > dEmO > > > > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com [mailto:Cal_ Boats@yahoogroup s.com] *On > Behalf Of *ngeisz741@comcast. net > *Sent:* Sunday, December 20, 2009 7:09 AM > *To:* Cal Boats > *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] Web site reminder > > Wow, very nice work. What size furring strips? Did you run them > sideways or for/aft? How far apart? > > What name brand is the ballooning epoxy and did you need special > brushes/rollers? > > > > Thanks, Nick "Jade" Cal 9.2 > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "timmothy lessley" <timmothy.lessley@ ch2m.com> > To: "Cal Boats" <Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com> > Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 7:51:20 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern > Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] Web site reminder > > > > My liner replacement effort on Freewind > > Removed the liner, screwed in furring strips and installed fiberglass > shower panels, as it has nice liner edges. > > So far I really like it. > > As for the sides of the cabin, just faired it with ballooned fairing epoxy > and painted with 1 part epoxy. > > Maybe not lighter - but very nice and easy access to bolt backsides. I also > replaced the cabin lights (windows) with a system without screws. > > zero leaks in 5 years > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com [mailto:Cal_ Boats@yahoogroup s.com] *On > Behalf Of *ngeisz741@comcast. net > *Sent:* Thursday, December 17, 2009 4:41 PM > *To:* Cal Boats > *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] Web site reminder > > > > Hi, Thanks much, I pulled out the liner on my 9.2 and plan to replace > it with something. The airline plastic liner faded, started cracking in many > places and blocked sight of chainplates, etc. Besides my son said it all > weighed about 50 lbs. > > > > Later, Nick "Jade" Cal 9.2 > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "roline" <roline@charter. net> > To: "Cal Boats" <Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com> > Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 6:27:13 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Web site reminder > > > > Last project was converting to propane stove on a slide out mount with a > stowage box behind.... > I need to work on the prop shaft strut, but to get to the nuts on the > inside, looks like I'l have to remove the engine to crawl in... > Any suggestions? ? > > http://www.angelfir e.com/tn/ santana525/ cal92/cal92. html<http://www.angelfire.com/tn/santana525/cal92/cal92.html> > Eric > > ngeisz741@comcast. net <ng… [at] comcast.net> wrote: > > > > Roline, can you remind us of your web site name? Has it been updated with > the recent project work you indicated you completed on your Cal 9.2? > > > > Thanks, Nick "Jade" Cal 9.2 > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "roline" <roline@charter. net> > To: "Cal Boats" <Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com> > Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 6:06:13 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] LP Calculator > > > > When checking sail design, I always drew the line from the center of the > luff through the clew to determine the nominal location of the turning > block..... > If you fold the sail luff on its self so that the clew is on the fold and > measure the distance from the clew to the luff , this is the LP. > On some deck sweapers this does not work.... > > > > > Rodney G. Johnson wrote: > > > The LP has no real relationship to clew height. LP is purely a measurement > of the length of a line drawn through the clew and perpendicular to the > luff. Whether the clew is 1' or 5' (or more.. or less) off the deck, the > length of the LP as a percentage of the "J" measurement does not change. A > 90% jib will be a 90% jib no matter what the height of the clew off the > deck, as long as the LP = 90% of the J measurement. > > Rod Johnson, > "SUNBIRD" > 1979 O'DAY DS II > #10201 > > On Wed, 16 Dec 2009 18:05:51 -0800 Allen Edwards <allen.edwards@ > PaloAltoPhoto. com <al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com>> writes: > > > > Hi Charlie, > > I am not sure what you are getting at. It is certainly important to know > the clew height in deciding if a sail will fit. On my boat the fact that > the mast is at some angle and that the bow is up relative to the mast base > is important to the tune of about a foot. However, I do not think these > change the definition of LP. What I have neglected is that any luff hollow > will subtract from the LP. I am just making a calculation on an ideal > triangle and we all know sails are not ideal triangles. Here are the > definitions. > > J: J Horizontal distance from mast to where the forward most jibstay > intersects the > deck, or jib tack. Note that ‘JC’ is no longer on this form. > > LP: The LP (Luff Perpendicular) of your > jibs is determined by measuring the distance from the clew to the nearest > point > on the luff. This is done by holding the zero end of a tape measure at the > clew > (defined as the intersection of the leech and the foot), removing the > wrinkles > from the area to be measured, and swinging an arc up and down the luff, > recording the minimum distance, then dividing by J and multiplying by 100. > > > Allen > > > > On Wed, Dec 16, 2009 at 5:40 PM, Husar, Charlie [USA] <husar_charlie@ > bah.com <hu… [at] bah.com>> wrote: > >> >> Allen, would there not be a variable introduced based on the required >> height of the clew due to the boat's sheeting angle? >> >> Cheers >> Charlie >> >> >> >> > > > > > > ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ ___ > Nutrition > Improve your career health. Click now to study nutrition!<http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2142/c?cp=vYECyVdO-e-dKKEm1DNrigAAJ1CIixW8vmHn6WPZlsvVErEuAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAASQwAAAAA=> > > > > > >