shifter cable

Anyone know how to remove the shifter cable from a Yacht Specialties Pedestal? Randy CAL 2-29 Out Patient Channel Islands Ca

Randy, Oh boy..... No fun. From memory only, and there may be differences in adapters or clamps but probably pretty much will go like this..... First off, I assume you have a Ritchie or other globe compass sitting on top of a several inch deep aluminum throttle/shift lever assembly that is the same diameter as the top section of the actual pedestal itself. Probably going to find some or all of the following tools very helpful: drill, drill bits, open and box end wrenches, screw drivers, ratchet and socket set with short universal joint adapter, Kroil, propane torch, mini vise-grips, 4" grinder with 36 or 50 grit discs, proper sized drill/tap combinations to make #8 or #10 and 5/16" threaded holes, anti seize, soothing music, first aid kit and Guinness or other soothing beverage. Will need assorted screws and maybe new clamps for the new cable. So first you need the mindset that you are going to do some demo and then drilling and tapping to put it all back together again. You will have stainless screws into threaded holes into the aluminum throttle/ shift lever assembly and pedestal. Unless your unit has been serviced and anti-seize or similar treatments there is little hope that the screws will come out without snapping. By all means try Kroil and see how it goes, but it's no big deal to drill and tap new holes to re- mount. It's been a few years, but this should get you close enough to figure on your own. 1) Remove black plastic compass light housing (two screws -- keep them as they are de-magnetized) and lift off -- that frees the chrome compass shell to lift off. 2) Remove screws that mount compass frame to throttle/shift lever assembly on top of pedestal. They'll probably crumble and break off, but you can drill new holes in the compass frame and start over with self tapping screws (or tap new holes) when you re-assemble. Now you can see the ends of the cables where they attach to the lever-arms inside the assembly, but you won't be able to remove them, though I suspect you might give it a try to satisfy yourself, in case your unit is different then mine and allows better access. 3) Assuming you couldn't get to the cable mounts, remove four flat head screws that hold the throttle/shift lever assembly fitting down onto the pedestal. You will probably end up breaking them off too, but try Kroil for a couple of days and an impact screw remover tool from your local parts house. If you break them, you have the option of drilling out and tapping the pedestal to accept larger machine screws (that's what I had to do.) 4) Lift throttle/shift lever assembly away from pedestal as far as the cables allow and experiment with various wrenches until you find one that you can get in there and undo the bolts that secure the extension pieces that the cables are clamped to. Then it gets obvious from there. Reverse assembly using quality anti-seize compound. Good luck, brother. Wilkie On Dec 30, 2009, at 9:15 PM, Randy Alcorn wrote: > > Anyone know how to remove the shifter cable from a Yacht Specialties > Pedestal? > > Randy > > CAL 2-29 > Out Patient > Channel Islands Ca > > >

David, you forgot the SawzAll. Randy, best of luck. Sounds like you'll need it Happy New Year All, or as a sign said out front of Red, Hot, and Blue Restaurant out on Rt. 50 (near Annapolis). Goodbye 2009 ...and Don't Come Back Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of David Wilkie Owen Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 2:40 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] shifter cable Randy, Oh boy..... No fun. From memory only, and there may be differences in adapters or clamps but probably pretty much will go like this..... First off, I assume you have a Ritchie or other globe compass sitting on top of a several inch deep aluminum throttle/shift lever assembly that is the same diameter as the top section of the actual pedestal itself. Probably going to find some or all of the following tools very helpful: drill, drill bits, open and box end wrenches, screw drivers, ratchet and socket set with short universal joint adapter, Kroil, propane torch, mini vise-grips, 4" grinder with 36 or 50 grit discs, proper sized drill/tap combinations to make #8 or #10 and 5/16" threaded holes, anti seize, soothing music, first aid kit and Guinness or other soothing beverage. Will need assorted screws and maybe new clamps for the new cable. So first you need the mindset that you are going to do some demo and then drilling and tapping to put it all back together again. You will have stainless screws into threaded holes into the aluminum throttle/shift lever assembly and pedestal. Unless your unit has been serviced and anti-seize or similar treatments there is little hope that the screws will come out without snapping. By all means try Kroil and see how it goes, but it's no big deal to drill and tap new holes to re-mount. It's been a few years, but this should get you close enough to figure on your own. 1) Remove black plastic compass light housing (two screws -- keep them as they are de-magnetized) and lift off -- that frees the chrome compass shell to lift off. 2) Remove screws that mount compass frame to throttle/shift lever assembly on top of pedestal. They'll probably crumble and break off, but you can drill new holes in the compass frame and start over with self tapping screws (or tap new holes) when you re-assemble. Now you can see the ends of the cables where they attach to the lever-arms inside the assembly, but you won't be able to remove them, though I suspect you might give it a try to satisfy yourself, in case your unit is different then mine and allows better access. 3) Assuming you couldn't get to the cable mounts, remove four flat head screws that hold the throttle/shift lever assembly fitting down onto the pedestal. You will probably end up breaking them off too, but try Kroil for a couple of days and an impact screw remover tool from your local parts house. If you break them, you have the option of drilling out and tapping the pedestal to accept larger machine screws (that's what I had to do.) 4) Lift throttle/shift lever assembly away from pedestal as far as the cables allow and experiment with various wrenches until you find one that you can get in there and undo the bolts that secure the extension pieces that the cables are clamped to. Then it gets obvious from there. Reverse assembly using quality anti-seize compound. Good luck, brother. Wilkie

Thanks I'm going in -- Sent from my Palm Pixi David Wilkie Owen wrote: Randy, Oh boy..... No fun. From memory only, and there may be differences in adapters or clamps but probably pretty much will go like this..... First off, I assume you have a Ritchie or other globe compass sitting on top of a several inch deep aluminum throttle/shift lever assembly that is the same diameter as the top section of the actual pedestal itself. Probably going to find some or all of the following tools very helpful: drill, drill bits, open and box end wrenches, screw drivers, ratchet and socket set with short universal joint adapter, Kroil, propane torch, mini vise-grips, 4" grinder with 36 or 50 grit discs, proper sized drill/tap combinations to make #8 or #10 and 5/16" threaded holes, anti seize, soothing music, first aid kit and Guinness or other soothing beverage. Will need assorted screws and maybe new clamps for the new cable. So first you need the mindset that you are going to do some demo and then drilling and tapping to put it all back together again. You will have stainless screws into threaded holes into the aluminum throttle/shift lever assembly and pedestal. Unless your unit has been serviced and anti-seize or similar treatments there is little hope that the screws will come out without snapping. By all means try Kroil and see how it goes, but it's no big deal to drill and tap new holes to re-mount. It's been a few years, but this should get you close enough to figure on your own. 1) Remove black plastic compass light housing (two screws -- keep them as they are de-magnetized) and lift off -- that frees the chrome compass shell to lift off.2) Remove screws that mount compass frame to throttle/shift lever assembly on top of pedestal. They'll probably crumble and break off, but you can drill new holes in the compass frame and start over with self tapping screws (or tap new holes) when you re-assemble. Now you can see the ends of the cables where they attach to the lever-arms inside the assembly, but you won't be able to remove them, though I suspect you might give it a try to satisfy yourself, in case your unit is different then mine and allows better access. 3) Assuming you couldn't get to the cable mounts, remove four flat head screws that hold the throttle/shift lever assembly fitting down onto the pedestal. You will probably end up breaking them off too, but try Kroil for a couple of days and an impact screw remover tool from your local parts house. If you break them, you have the option of drilling out and tapping the pedestal to accept larger machine screws (that's what I had to do.) 4) Lift throttle/shift lever assembly away from pedestal as far as the cables allow and experiment with various wrenches until you find one that you can get in there and undo the bolts that secure the extension pieces that the cables are clamped to. Then it gets obvious from there. Reverse assembly using quality anti-seize compound. Good luck, brother. Wilkie On Dec 30, 2009, at 9:15 PM, Randy Alcorn wrote:Anyone know how to remove the shifter cable from a Yacht Specialties Pedestal? Randy CAL 2-29Out PatientChannel Islands Ca

Wilkie: "From memory only, "....you are amazing! I groaned when I read his question knowing that I was going to have to dredge my own memory banks for the steps. You saved me the pain and I forgot much of the minutia until I read your reply. The only thing I would add is in regards to the other end of the cable. Mine is attached to the bottom of the Westerbeke-30 block in a completely inaccessible location. I could only access it by removing the heat exchanger and all water pump hoses above the cable bracket. Even then it took the hands of a midget with the strength of a gorilla to remove it. Who DID they have working at the Cal factory? Cheers, Danny --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, David Wilkie Owen <dwowen@...> wrote: > Randy, > > Oh boy..... No fun. From memory only, and there may be differences <SNIP>

First of all thanks for the info. You were right. I got as far as the first plate. I just couldn't dive that deep into the pedistal. We went down to the Berger/ Stein Race at Del Rey Yacht Club. After all the stress of breaking and fixing things we had no wind once we got there. I felt really bad as I was laying in my bunk reading how the east coast guys had all the iwnd and cold and we had 70 degrees and no wind. Onluy one baot finished the 26 mile race by the 6 pm cut off. Medicine Man. What happened was, I noticed how little metal was left on the rusted thru cable mount, so we decided to replace the mount on the engine side of the shifter cable. I found out that I had an extra 6 ft of cable crammed under the cockpit, I was thinking of replacing the whole cable. But corrosion being what it is, I worked the cable back under the cockpit sole and left it the way it had been for the last 35 plus years and replaced the mount. Is guess it was if it ain't broke don't break it. I figure if I have to dive in there and break something, I am going back to a tiller. I am pulling the rudder for the Hardway. So if I break it then... I will let everyone know what it took. Thanks again Randy From: David Wilkie Owen <dw… [at] cox.net> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Wed, December 30, 2009 11:39:31 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] shifter cable Randy, Oh boy..... No fun. From memory only, and there may be differences in adapters or clamps but probably pretty much will go like this..... First off, I assume you have a Ritchie or other globe compass sitting on top of a several inch deep aluminum throttle/shift lever assembly that is the same diameter as the top section of the actual pedestal itself. Probably going to find some or all of the following tools very helpful: drill, drill bits, open and box end wrenches, screw drivers, ratchet and socket set with short universal joint adapter, Kroil, propane torch, mini vise-grips, 4" grinder with 36 or 50 grit discs, proper sized drill/tap combinations to make #8 or #10 and 5/16" threaded holes, anti seize, soothing music, first aid kit and Guinness or other soothing beverage. Will need assorted screws and maybe new clamps for the new cable. So first you need the mindset that you are going to do some demo and then drilling and tapping to put it all back together again. You will have stainless screws into threaded holes into the aluminum throttle/shift lever assembly and pedestal. Unless your unit has been serviced and anti-seize or similar treatments there is little hope that the screws will come out without snapping. By all means try Kroil and see how it goes, but it's no big deal to drill and tap new holes to re-mount. It's been a few years, but this should get you close enough to figure on your own. 1) Remove black plastic compass light housing (two screws -- keep them as they are de-magnetized) and lift off -- that frees the chrome compass shell to lift off. 2) Remove screws that mount compass frame to throttle/shift lever assembly on top of pedestal. They'll probably crumble and break off, but you can drill new holes in the compass frame and start over with self tapping screws (or tap new holes) when you re-assemble. Now you can see the ends of the cables where they attach to the lever-arms inside the assembly, but you won't be able to remove them, though I suspect you might give it a try to satisfy yourself, in case your unit is different then mine and allows better access. 3) Assuming you couldn't get to the cable mounts, remove four flat head screws that hold the throttle/shift lever assembly fitting down onto the pedestal. You will probably end up breaking them off too, but try Kroil for a couple of days and an impact screw remover tool from your local parts house. If you break them, you have the option of drilling out and tapping the pedestal to accept larger machine screws (that's what I had to do.) 4) Lift throttle/shift lever assembly away from pedestal as far as the cables allow and experiment with various wrenches until you find one that you can get in there and undo the bolts that secure the extension pieces that the cables are clamped to. Then it gets obvious from there. Reverse assembly using quality anti-seize compound. Good luck, brother. Wilkie On Dec 30, 2009, at 9:15 PM, Randy Alcorn wrote: > >Anyone know how to remove the shifter cable from a Yacht Specialties Pedestal? > >Randy > >CAL 2-29 >Out Patient >Channel Islands Ca > > >