RE: Ready to SUBMIT?

>Two more days and you'll be aboard SUBMIT, on Bayou Chico. and up to our necks in projects! > I would love to join you on some or all of your cruise. Thanks for > asking. I just have too many "irons in the fire" right now (and always > it seems). > > Maybe some where farther down the waterway, who knows. > > I'll be following your posts with much interest. > > I, too, love the color of the hull topsides on SUBMIT. She looks > classic and modern at the same time! I'm not much of a fan of anything > looking modern. (sill love those old Scouts) my son recently acquired a new-to-him old scout. '76 I believe. any extra rear seats laying around? > Do I understand that you had some or all of the overhead (not to be > confused with the ceiling, the inside of the topsides) in the salon > replaced? Starboard aft portion of the upper salon. External handrail leaks caused delamination, etc. > If so, tell me about that, as my boat needs that task done, due mainly > to my inattention and lack of knowledge. I had the work done on "Submit", but did a similar job on a T/2. should be similar. on the T/2, I used a skillsaw to cut out the bad area, blade set shallow, of course. clean up and sand or grind underside of outer skin.. cut replacement core. I used a chunk of exterior glue ply since marine ply was non-existant in MT. If you do an area with significant curve, either 1. score the ply to be able to bend to the curvethen use very thick epoxy or epoxy putty to bond it to the underside of the skin, or 2. build it up with multiple layers of very thin stuff, perhaps door skin, epoxying each layer to the last. You can cut lengths of 2x2 or anything to use as vertical supports, wedged for pressure, to hold the core in place while it sets. Then, there is an inner skin of usually onyl 1 or 2 layers of glass cloth. I wet out the cloth on a small sheet of plastic and then just lifted the cloth and plastic up to the underside of the patch, and used a roller to eliminate bubbles. the glass extends beyond the patch to also bond wth the underside of the outer skin. you may wish to use epoxy putty to create a bevel from the edge of the core patch to the underside of the outer skin before laying up the inner layer of glass cloth. When the epoxy sets, the plastic pulls right off leaving a very smooth surface, cutting down on sanding, etc. Last but not least, oversize drill and epoxy fill any hardware mounting holes, then drill the mounting hole through the epoxy "plug". this leaves the core sealled off from any moisture which might get past neglected calking, thus leaving a repair which will last forever. I only have "after" pictures of "Submit"'s repair and none of the T/2. and, since the 40 year old teak handrail had to be removed to do "Submit"'s repair, I went crazy and replaced all the topside wooden handrails with brand new shiney custom made handrails! This help? Reggie