Re: [Cal_Boats] Re: Evinrude shift lever

Chris, there is a disconnect for the shift rod at the top of the lower-unit. To access it you need to loosen the screws that fasten the lower unit to the leg of the outboard, enough to get a screwdriver into the gap, there is a fitting that has 2 screws to connect the part of the shift rod in the lower unit to the part in the drive leg. Remove one of those screws completely (top one I think) and the 2 parts will separate. Carefully remove the gearcase after removing the screws that held it to the drive leg, the driveshaft should remain in place (at least on my outboards) in the gearcase to keep the oil inside (but keep the gearcase vertical as possible) the books tell you to drain the oil first, but I've removed gearcases without draining first, just need to be a bit more careful. I did this operation on my 1993 Johnson 9.9 but the basic process is same for most models of OMC outboards with gearshifts. I ruined a screw on that fitting last Fall by not completely removing it (OMC Service Manual wasn't Clear!) I should have looked it up in my CLYMERs shop manual, that book had better description! I'd suggest either buying one of these books or borrowing one from the library (how to keep it clean while using? darned if I know!) I rarely bring my outboards in to the dealer anymore, the $30 I spent on that book has saved me much, much more! My local dealer stocks the parts (or can order them) and I have found fixing them is not hard (However, I am a mechanical engineering tech, certainly not an outboard repair expert though!). One possible, although I think far-fetched possibility..... maybe the shift "fork" has come loose? There is a Philips-Head pivot pin visible on the lower unit, if that broke of is loose it would seem that the shift fork would not function correctly. The gearcase has 2 slotted screws for draining/filling the oil in the gearcase, but the Philip-Head screw is the pivot for the shifting lever (fork). I doubt that is problem. I have the exploded view of your gearcase (from above book), could probably e-mail it to you if that would help? Rod Johnson, "SUNBIRD" 1979 O'DAY DS II #10201 former co-owner "NODROG" 1970 CAL 21 #285 On Thu, 29 Apr 2010 13:47:30 -0400 Chris Campbell <cl… [at] charterinternet.com> writes: Joseph McCloskey wrote: Chris I had a Johnson 5.5hp from the 60's. and if this is the same engine, and i think it probably is, you have to remove the powerhead to get to the shift lever parts. It was a long time ago so I could be mistaken. I'm hoping there's some sort of joint at the bottom, because you have to be able to disconnect the lower unit to service the water pump impeller. And that seems to be where mine is making a rattling noise. I did not try disassembly aboard last night, because if the drive shaft comes out of the seal, the lube will leak all over. For now, mine seems to be lodged in "Forward" so I can at least power in the right direction. Chris Campbell Artery Clearing Secret Nobel Prize Winning discovery cuts artery plaque by incredible 50%. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4bd9da74de2ad339a0m02duc

Rodney G. Johnson wrote: >  > > Chris, there is a disconnect for the shift rod at the top of the > lower-unit. To access it you need to loosen the screws that fasten the > lower unit to the leg of the outboard, enough to get a screwdriver > into the gap, there is a fitting that has 2 screws to connect the part > of the shift rod in the lower unit to the part in the drive leg. > Remove one of those screws completely (top one I think) and the 2 > parts will separate. Carefully remove the gearcase after removing the > screws that held it to the drive leg, the driveshaft should remain in > place (at least on my outboards) in the gearcase to keep the oil > inside (but keep the gearcase vertical as possible) the books tell you > to drain the oil first, but I've removed gearcases without draining > first, just need to be a bit more careful. I did this operation on my > 1993 Johnson 9.9 but the basic process is same for most models of OMC > outboards with gearshifts. I ruined a screw on that fitting last Fall > by /not/ /_completely_/ removing it (OMC Service Manual wasn't Clear!) > I should have looked it up in my CLYMERs shop manual, that book had > better description! > > I'd suggest either buying one of these books or borrowing one from the > library (how to keep it clean while using? darned if I know!) I rarely > bring my outboards in to the dealer anymore, the $30 I spent on that > book has saved me much, much more! My local dealer stocks the parts > (or can order them) and I have found fixing them is not hard (However, > I am a mechanical engineering tech, certainly not an outboard repair > expert though!). > > One possible, although I think far-fetched possibility..... maybe the > shift "fork" has come loose? There is a Philips-Head pivot pin visible > on the lower unit, if that broke of is loose it would seem that the > shift fork would not function correctly. The gearcase has 2 slotted > screws for draining/filling the oil in the gearcase, but the > Philip-Head screw is the pivot for the shifting lever (fork). I doubt > that is problem. > > I have the exploded view of your gearcase (from above book), could > probably e-mail it to you if that would help? Thanks, Rod. I got a link to an exploded diagram yesterday. I decided that working on the motor aboard the boat is not advisable. The notion is to retrieve the 3 hp fishing motor from another city and switch the 6 hp out so I can take it home and work there. I'm guessing that the linkage has come loose where you describe. A previous owner had installed a long-shaft extension, and maybe it was not carefully done. The motor has pushed the Cal 20 around for 10 years now, so I'm not griping too much. But it certainly is inconvenient to have it fail when the mast isn't stepped and I can't sail. Chris Campbell > >

It looks like Shiva, a four-armed Hindu god, would be suitable for this task. Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Chris Campbell Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 4:52 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Re: Evinrude shift lever Rodney G. Johnson wrote:  Chris, there is a disconnect for the shift rod at the top of the lower-unit. To access it you need to loosen the screws that fasten the lower unit to the leg of the outboard, enough to get a screwdriver into the gap, there is a fitting that has 2 screws to connect the part of the shift rod in the lower unit to the part in the drive leg. Remove one of those screws completely (top one I think) and the 2 parts will separate. Carefully remove the gearcase after removing the screws that held it to the drive leg, the driveshaft should remain in place (at least on my outboards) in the gearcase to keep the oil inside (but keep the gearcase vertical as possible) the books tell you to drain the oil first, but I've removed gearcases without draining first, just need to be a bit more careful. I did this operation on my 1993 Johnson 9.9 but the basic process is same for most models of OMC outboards with gearshifts. I ruined a screw on that fitting last Fall by not completely removing it (OMC Service Manual wasn't Clear!) I should have looked it up in my CLYMERs shop manual, that book had better description! I'd suggest either buying one of these books or borrowing one from the library (how to keep it clean while using? darned if I know!) I rarely bring my outboards in to the dealer anymore, the $30 I spent on that book has saved me much, much more! My local dealer stocks the parts (or can order them) and I have found fixing them is not hard (However, I am a mechanical engineering tech, certainly not an outboard repair expert though!). One possible, although I think far-fetched possibility..... maybe the shift "fork" has come loose? There is a Philips-Head pivot pin visible on the lower unit, if that broke of is loose it would seem that the shift fork would not function correctly. The gearcase has 2 slotted screws for draining/filling the oil in the gearcase, but the Philip-Head screw is the pivot for the shifting lever (fork). I doubt that is problem. I have the exploded view of your gearcase (from above book), could probably e-mail it to you if that would help? Thanks, Rod. I got a link to an exploded diagram yesterday. I decided that working on the motor aboard the boat is not advisable. The notion is to retrieve the 3 hp fishing motor from another city and switch the 6 hp out so I can take it home and work there. I'm guessing that the linkage has come loose where you describe. A previous owner had installed a long-shaft extension, and maybe it was not carefully done. The motor has pushed the Cal 20 around for 10 years now, so I'm not griping too much. But it certainly is inconvenient to have it fail when the mast isn't stepped and I can't sail. Chris Campbell

Charlie: As long as the 4 arms are VERY skinny (or else have long, skinny fingers!)...... I actually could almost use 3 hands (with those long, skinny fingers!) when I try to reassemble the lower unit back onto my 4 hp Johnson after replacing the waterpump! Rod Johnson, "SUNBIRD" On Thu, 29 Apr 2010 21:05:28 -0400 "Husar, Charlie [USA]" <hu… [at] bah.com> writes: ? It looks like Shiva, a four-armed Hindu god, would be suitable for this task. Cheers Charlie Reply to sender | Reply to group | Reply via web post | Start a New Topic Messages in this topic (8) Recent Activity: New Members 5 New Photos 5 Visit Your Group Switch to: Text-Only, Daily Digest � Unsubscribe � Terms of Use. Penny Stock Jumping 2000% Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4bda326a8bc7b351f1m02duc