Storm hood

Greets; Was wondering is anyone has build or installed a solid sea hood for their boat. Currently working on some design concepts for the 3-29 and the best idea so far is to completely remove the wooden outside runners, which would necessitate replacing the sliding hatch cover or converting it to run on SS runners mounted onto the fiber glass integrated runners that are molded into the deck. Or building a new one out of wood. The two boats that I have looked at who's designs I like are the ericsons for a wooden cover and cape dory for an integrated sea hood. The reason for this need is that on the CAL3-29 the forward edge of the sliding hatch cover is approx 1/4 to 1/8 open to the deck and the trailing edge (at the hatch boards) is approx 1/4 gap. Its a real bugger in the winter to deal with and a real good source for water egress while underway. A dodger is good but not a good solution for these issues. Best regards -- /ch

Sorry forgot to mention the third option, and that is to add a storm hood that is integrated and covers the existing wooden runners, adding teak faceplate to the exiting hatch covers front edge to deal with the gaps around the runners. Then increase the teak trim elements on the companionway so it all mates up. This I think is the most complex method, but the cleanest when it comes to original look. Best regards /ch

Been thinking about doing this for a while. Was even contemplating making a plug and seeing who else was interested. The late and beloved Roger Jones was into vacuum forming and he and I traded some notes on building a system. I have the pump and various components but ran out of energy a while back and the project has stalled. Keep us up on what you plan to do.... Wilkie On Jul 3, 2010, at 9:55 AM, chris123 wrote: > Greets; > > Was wondering is anyone has build or installed a solid sea hood for > their boat. Currently working on some design concepts for the 3-29 and > the best idea so far is to completely remove the wooden outside > runners, which would necessitate replacing the sliding hatch cover or > converting it to run on SS runners mounted onto the fiber glass > integrated runners that are molded into the deck. Or building a new > one out of wood. The two boats that I have looked at who's designs I > like are the ericsons for a wooden cover and cape dory for an > integrated sea hood. > > The reason for this need is that on the CAL3-29 the forward edge of > the sliding hatch cover is approx 1/4 to 1/8 open to the deck and the > trailing edge (at the hatch boards) is approx 1/4 gap. Its a real > bugger in the winter to deal with and a real good source for water > egress while underway. A dodger is good but not a good solution for > these issues. > > Best regards > > -- > /ch > >

If anyone is interested in making a sea hood for a Cal 31, I would be willing to chip in up to a few hundred bucks for one. (The companionway is offset to starboard on the 31.) Harleigh Ewell From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of David Wilkie Owen Sent: Saturday, July 03, 2010 2:15 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Storm hood Been thinking about doing this for a while. Was even contemplating making a plug and seeing who else was interested. The late and beloved Roger Jones was into vacuum forming and he and I traded some notes on building a system. I have the pump and various components but ran out of energy a while back and the project has stalled. Keep us up on what you plan to do.... Wilkie On Jul 3, 2010, at 9:55 AM, chris123 wrote: Greets; Was wondering is anyone has build or installed a solid sea hood for their boat. Currently working on some design concepts for the 3-29 and the best idea so far is to completely remove the wooden outside runners, which would necessitate replacing the sliding hatch cover or converting it to run on SS runners mounted onto the fiber glass integrated runners that are molded into the deck. Or building a new one out of wood. The two boats that I have looked at who's designs I like are the ericsons for a wooden cover and cape dory for an integrated sea hood. The reason for this need is that on the CAL3-29 the forward edge of the sliding hatch cover is approx 1/4 to 1/8 open to the deck and the trailing edge (at the hatch boards) is approx 1/4 gap. Its a real bugger in the winter to deal with and a real good source for water egress while underway. A dodger is good but not a good solution for these issues. Best regards -- /ch __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5248 (20100703) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com

Chris, Good Old Boat magazine did a detailed article on how to build sea hoods a couple of issues ago. Check the website, but the actual paper copy is better. I have been thinking of building one also. It looks kinda complicated. David Dobbs, Cal29 411 --- On Sat, 7/3/10, chris123 <ch… [at] gmail.com> wrote: From: chris123 <ch… [at] gmail.com> Subject: [Cal_Boats] Storm hood To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Saturday, July 3, 2010, 11:55 AM Greets; Was wondering is anyone has build or installed a solid sea hood for their boat. Currently working on some design concepts for the 3-29 and the best idea so far is to completely remove the wooden outside runners, which would necessitate replacing the sliding hatch cover or converting it to run on SS runners mounted onto the fiber glass integrated runners that are molded into the deck. Or building a new one out of wood. The two boats that I have looked at who's designs I like are the ericsons for a wooden cover and cape dory for an integrated sea hood. The reason for this need is that on the CAL3-29 the forward edge of the sliding hatch cover is approx 1/4 to 1/8 open to the deck and the trailing edge (at the hatch boards) is approx 1/4 gap. Its a real bugger in the winter to deal with and a real good source for water egress while underway. A dodger is good but not a good solution for these issues. Best regards -- /ch

Saw the online reference to that article but not in its entireity. Once I draw up a set of plans will post them for comment if interested. The hardest part I think is what to do with the teak sliders? If you remove them then the hood has to be redisigned as well a the track that is sits on, the later being simple the former not that simple. Any comments on this? Best regards /ch

This will be a winter project for me. The main objective right now is to get the boat back home. The big design issue is not so much the sea hood rather if the teak runners should be removed or not. Any comments on that Wilkie? -- /ch

Agreed! The sketches I did last year incorporated the hood with new hatch and sliders. Lots more joinery than I am used to and my sketches were sub-standard an vague in that area. I have been meaning to walk the docks for some inspiration. Wilkie On Jul 5, 2010, at 11:37 AM, chris123 wrote: > This will be a winter project for me. The main objective right now > is to get the boat back home. The big design issue is not so much > the sea hood rather if the teak runners should be removed or not. > Any comments on that Wilkie? > > -- > /ch > >

Interesting....did the same exercise. What I came back with is basically variants on two themes...lets call them theme A: Island Packet concept, theme B: deep water boats. The island packet theme uses teak on the case plate forward leading edge of the hatch to cover the hatch boards and teak side elements on the companionway come to the same place as the top of the hatch. The rail element of the hatch cover is a "C" routed into a separate wood element attached to the hatch (wood or fibreglass) to catch the SS slider. Some have an additional Teflon lets call it an upper slider to decrease the friction on the two mating surfaces. The hatch is either wood of glass, With this design the teak slider rails of the CAL 29 can be eliminated as the hatch moves back and forth held in place by the "C" components of the hatches wood work. The deep water boat theme is only differentiated by how the hatch boards line up. The hatch covers front wood element is routed out to receive the top hatch board so that it is flash but within a cavity, so there is no overhanging lip to prevent water penetration. Its based on a pressure fit. Again this design allows for the elimination of the teak sliders to design and install the sea hood. The design of the sea hood is really not that challenging as its basically measurements to allow for adequate clearances and make sure all the mating surfaces are in deed flush. Build it is of course a different story. The only component that is unique from my reading is that some form of drainage is required typically done by means of a fillet on both sides of the sea hood, Some designs place it at the front, some on the back. I guess the idea is to have it at the lowest point for drainage. Where that would be on the 29 is probably boat dependant as my roof is rather curved from years of walking on it...:) Other 29's Ive inspected tend to be flatter. Have some pictures somewhere of the Island packet's design....its complicated alright, and see if I can dig them up. Best and thanks /ch.

Here are some pics on one mans effort to build a sea hood. While not the same the pic's are good for study examples. The sea hood pics are towards the bottom of the archive. http://billsboat.webs.com/apps/photos/album?albumid=8960133 /ch PS: its not a CAL....rather a unique little cruiser custom build in the States.

A detailed post that I am going to have to sober up before I digest. Went to look at some IP photos though and I think it's an elegant solution, if one can put the skills and patience together. Wilkie On Jul 5, 2010, at 8:58 PM, chris123 wrote: > Interesting....did the same exercise. What I came back with is > basically variants on two themes...lets call them theme A: Island > Packet concept, theme B: deep water boats. > > The island packet theme uses teak on the case plate forward leading > edge of the hatch to cover the hatch boards and teak side elements on > the companionway come to the same place as the top of the hatch. The > rail element of the hatch cover is a "C" routed into a separate wood > element attached to the hatch (wood or fibreglass) to catch the SS > slider. Some have an additional Teflon lets call it an upper slider to > decrease the friction on the two mating surfaces. The hatch is either > wood of glass, With this design the teak slider rails of the CAL 29 > can be eliminated as the hatch moves back and forth held in place by > the "C" components of the hatches wood work. > > The deep water boat theme is only differentiated by how the hatch > boards line up. The hatch covers front wood element is routed out to > receive the top hatch board so that it is flash but within a cavity, > so there is no overhanging lip to prevent water penetration. Its based > on a pressure fit. Again this design allows for the elimination of the > teak sliders to design and install the sea hood. > > The design of the sea hood is really not that challenging as its > basically measurements to allow for adequate clearances and make sure > all the mating surfaces are in deed flush. Build it is of course a > different story. The only component that is unique from my reading is > that some form of drainage is required typically done by means of a > fillet on both sides of the sea hood, Some designs place it at the > front, some on the back. I guess the idea is to have it at the lowest > point for drainage. Where that would be on the 29 is probably boat > dependant as my roof is rather curved from years of walking on it...:) > Other 29's Ive inspected tend to be flatter. > > Have some pictures somewhere of the Island packet's design....its > complicated alright, and see if I can dig them up. > > Best and thanks > > /ch. > >

The other thing that crossed my mind was this. Looking at CAL-36's on yachtworld they seem to come with a sea hood stock. Noticeably the teak runner are gone, which is interesting to me. Its not the best source as there are currently only three on line. The one on craigslist in Florida was recently sold and I did not grab the pictures. Dang....:) Regards /ch

Chris, There are 2 Cal 31s on my dock, they both have sea hoods, and look stock to me, I'll be there tomorrow for racing, will take a closer look. Regards, David D. --- On Tue, 7/6/10, chris123 <ch… [at] gmail.com> wrote: From: chris123 <ch… [at] gmail.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Storm hood To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Tuesday, July 6, 2010, 8:34 PM The other thing that crossed my mind was this. Looking at CAL-36's on yachtworld they seem to come with a sea hood stock. Noticeably the teak runner are gone, which is interesting to me. Its not the best source as there are currently only three on line. The one on craigslist in Florida was recently sold and I did not grab the pictures. Dang....:) Regards /ch

Boy, This is one of those Roger Jones conversations. He would have been able to tell us why they put hoods on the 31, but not on the 29, and the reason for the decision. I miss his calm, informative presence. Regards, David D. Cal29 411 --- On Tue, 7/6/10, david dobbs <tm… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: From: david dobbs <tm… [at] yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Storm hood(Chris H.) To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Tuesday, July 6, 2010, 8:41 PM Chris, There are 2 Cal 31s on my dock, they both have sea hoods, and look stock to me, I'll be there tomorrow for racing, will take a closer look. Regards, David D. --- On Tue, 7/6/10, chris123 <chris.herrnberger@ gmail.com> wrote: From: chris123 <chris.herrnberger@ gmail.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Storm hood To: Cal_Boats@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Tuesday, July 6, 2010, 8:34 PM The other thing that crossed my mind was this. Looking at CAL-36's on yachtworld they seem to come with a sea hood stock. Noticeably the teak runner are gone, which is interesting to me. Its not the best source as there are currently only three on line. The one on craigslist in Florida was recently sold and I did not grab the pictures. Dang....:) Regards /ch

Thanks so much. Pic's would be wonderful if available. /ch

Chris I also have looked at all the strom hood options First a Dodger would be best Second well because of the two step enrtry into the cabin and its angle of descend well its ?? On a steeper companion way entry a a strom hood could work closer in to have some affect I looked at Roger Jones Idea but its a lot of work extended deck house and lots mods to the inside to give the steep three or four set ladder down Third the position of the storm hood or sea hood is of major concern you do not want your head to hid it? If you find a idea that works I'm sure all the 29 would love a solution, What i have to keep the rain uot is canvas cover when the hatch is closed but open SF is not a daily option I close the hatch shy the drop boards other wise to much water can get in. Scott --- On Tue, 7/6/10, chris123 <ch… [at] gmail.com> wrote: From: chris123 <ch… [at] gmail.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Storm hood(Chris H.) To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Tuesday, July 6, 2010, 7:58 PM Thanks so much. Pic's would be wonderful if available. /ch

I couldn't follow some of what you said, but a dodger and a sea hood serve different purposes. Although when you have waves washing over the cabin top, a sea hood may reduce the dripping of water into the cabin, its main purpose is to keep the companionway hatch from being ripped off by a wave that breaks onto the boat. Harleigh Ewell Cal 31 From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of scott Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2010 12:31 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Storm hood(Chris H.) Chris I also have looked at all the strom hood options First a Dodger would be best Second well because of the two step enrtry into the cabin and its angle of descend well its ?? On a steeper companion way entry a a strom hood could work closer in to have some affect I looked at Roger Jones Idea but its a lot of work extended deck house and lots mods to the inside to give the steep three or four set ladder down Third the position of the storm hood or sea hood is of major concern you do not want your head to hid it? If you find a idea that works I'm sure all the 29 would love a solution, What i have to keep the rain uot is canvas cover when the hatch is closed but open SF is not a daily option I close the hatch shy the drop boards other wise to much water can get in. Scott --- On Tue, 7/6/10, chris123 <ch… [at] gmail.com> wrote: From: chris123 <ch… [at] gmail.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Storm hood(Chris H.) To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Tuesday, July 6, 2010, 7:58 PM Thanks so much. Pic's would be wonderful if available. /ch __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5257 (20100707) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com

I would tend to agree with this. However my needs are a bit different. Yes this is one reason, the other being is that I travel in cold climates. The leading edge of the hood lets it in so much air that I have to stuff it with towels to keep the salon warm which are then frozen solid in the morning due to condensate. Secondly the front edge of the hatch (which I also need to rework) has a 1/4 inch gap between the runners, more towels are required to plug these. One project that I will complete some day is to build an insulated interior cover for the hatch that extends down over the washboards in two pieces, one for the top, one for the boards connected via velcro and to the boat with snaps. In this manner you can have a nicely insulated wind seal when it gets cold and should help with the condensate. Yup, had far too much time while stuck in the ice to work out all these projects. But you do learn a lot, which is fun. A change of view out the ports becomes a real treat. You tend to move vertical, 6 inches up and 6 inches down..:) While a dodger is nice, I find it restricts the view. In a heavy blow she has to come down any way. So at this point I see no need for it. /ch