Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken

Today,while sailing on my Cal 2-24 two of the screw heads on my mainsail luff track broke just above my boom, so that the lower track is now pulled away from the mast. Can anybody tell me what I need to do to fix these broken screws? For example, should just take the mast off, and take it to a machine shop to have folks better equipped drill them out? Thank you very much. Ken

I know nothing of your problem but if it were my boat I would want to know why they broke before I fixed them. Perhaps you have a new sail that isn't right. Perhaps you reefed and tightened the clew before the tack. Something is wrong as there really should not be enough force there to break screws. If you really feel that nothing broke them, you might want to replace all of them all the way up. Allen On Sun, Oct 10, 2010 at 4:13 PM, Ken <kc… [at] glensfallshosp.org> wrote: > > > Today,while sailing on my Cal 2-24 two of the screw heads on my mainsail > luff track broke just above my boom, so that the lower track is now pulled > away from the mast. Can anybody tell me what I need to do to fix these > broken screws? For example, should just take the mast off, and take it to a > machine shop to have folks better equipped drill them out? Thank you very > much. Ken > > >

On 10/10/2010 7:13 PM, Ken wrote: > > Today,while sailing on my Cal 2-24 two of the screw heads on my > mainsail luff track broke just above my boom, so that the lower track > is now pulled away from the mast. Can anybody tell me what I need to > do to fix these broken screws? For example, should just take the mast > off, and take it to a machine shop to have folks better equipped drill > them out? Thank you very much. Ken > > Had the same issue on my 29. Ended up using a slightly longer screw and putting a nut on the inside of the mast. I just happened to have a plastic washer that was domed on one side and fit the contour of the inside of the mast. Good Luck Don '74 CAL29 Cayuga Lake, NY

Hi Ken, I have had it happen three times on my mast. The first time I took the track to a machine shop and had the track remade with a larger screw size. I drilled out the old screws and re-tapped them to the larger size. The second time I was able to straighten the track and remove the screws with an easy out. However the third time I bought a goose neck mount from http://www.lefiell.com/. I am going to drop my mast and do other work and grind off the track and use the goose neck mount. Currently my CAL 2-29 is leading both the Ventura county High Points and the Santa Barbra Channel series which tracks races between clubs from Santa Barbra, Ventura and Channel Island California. In order to finish the season I used three stainless steel hose clamps to secure the sliding goose neck in place and hold the track to the mast. I used black electrical tape between the stainless steel and the mast to prevent galvanic corrosion. So far so good. Our race season ends in December and starts in middle of Jan. Randy CAL 2-29 Out Patient Channel Islands Ca From: Ken <kc… [at] glensfallshosp.org> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Sun, October 10, 2010 4:13:35 PM Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken Today,while sailing on my Cal 2-24 two of the screw heads on my mainsail luff track broke just above my boom, so that the lower track is now pulled away from the mast. Can anybody tell me what I need to do to fix these broken screws? For example, should just take the mast off, and take it to a machine shop to have folks better equipped drill them out? Thank you very much. Ken

While sailing on my Cal 2-24 two of the screw heads on my mainsail luff track broke just above my boom, so that the lower track is now pulled away from the mast. Can anybody tell me what I need to do to fix these broken screws? For example, should just take the mast off, and take it to a machine shop to have folks better equipped drill them out? Thank you very much. Ken

For Randy: Geez I thought I cooked up that hose clamp idea. On my CAL 25s, I put one right through the slider to hold it tight to the boom track and boom. I actually use two shorter ones (that can be butted to each other) to make the sizing easier. In the old days, the track was for an adjustment to allow more curl in the luff. Nowadays we attach the track fitting at the lowest point commensurate with the lower main band, and leave it there. Ken, a few comments. The track was attached with screws tapped into the thin mast section. This is why they come loose or break after a while. I've seen some tracks that people had welded to increase the strength. Of course welding aluminum (or whatever one calls that process) is apparently a touchy process. Hose clamps will do it. The track does not need to go into the same holes. No need to take down the mast. Just take off the track, and move it an inch with new holes. If you can't remove the broken screws, then grind them down to smooth. Might put some metal putty in the old holes to reduce leakage, and then sand. As far as the new holes go, getting centered holes is not easy, since the holes are smaller (need to be tapping size) than the 1/4 inch holes (I am assuming) in the track, and the surface of the mast is curved. Even a small miss makes the holes misalign for putting track back on. Can be painful. Here is an idea. First, drill and tap one hole for the new track placement. Screw the track on with that one hole. Now, for the next hole, get a piece of 1/4" OD tube and stick it in the next hole (when you have suitable aligned the track where you want it). Drill a hole at the ID size of the tubing. This hole will be properly centered. Then remove track, drill hole to proper size, and tap and reinstall track with two screws (I will assume the screws are 1/4-20 machine, probably 1/2" to 3/4" long). Then go to next hole repeating the process. Note that since the boom no longer needs to slide, the track can be quite short. When you have done all the screws, put on your hose clamp. Don't forget your Lanocote on the screws. Some caution, the original boom track on some older CALs was 7/8" rather than the modern 1" track. Getting a slider to fit this track can be tough (Rig-Rite sells them, but does not produce them very often.) A one inch slider with a hose clamp can be the fall back position. Someone said they used nuts on the inside of the mast. How did you get them in there? I'd love to know since I tried that. It is a good 3 feet up inside the mast. My fingers are tired. Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ken Sent: Monday, October 11, 2010 5:09 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken While sailing on my Cal 2-24 two of the screw heads on my mainsail luff track broke just above my boom, so that the lower track is now pulled away from the mast. Can anybody tell me what I need to do to fix these broken screws? For example, should just take the mast off, and take it to a machine shop to have folks better equipped drill them out? Thank you very much. Ken ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links

Damn good advice!!! My Best ,Mike Farrell From: "Husar, Charlie [USA]" <hu… [at] bah.com> To: "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Mon, October 11, 2010 5:21:47 PM Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken For Randy: Geez I thought I cooked up that hose clamp idea. On my CAL 25s, I put one right through the slider to hold it tight to the boom track and boom. I actually use two shorter ones (that can be butted to each other) to make the sizing easier. In the old days, the track was for an adjustment to allow more curl in the luff. Nowadays we attach the track fitting at the lowest point commensurate with the lower main band, and leave it there. Ken, a few comments. The track was attached with screws tapped into the thin mast section. This is why they come loose or break after a while. I've seen some tracks that people had welded to increase the strength. Of course welding aluminum (or whatever one calls that process) is apparently a touchy process. Hose clamps will do it. The track does not need to go into the same holes. No need to take down the mast. Just take off the track, and move it an inch with new holes. If you can't remove the broken screws, then grind them down to smooth. Might put some metal putty in the old holes to reduce leakage, and then sand. As far as the new holes go, getting centered holes is not easy, since the holes are smaller (need to be tapping size) than the 1/4 inch holes (I am assuming) in the track, and the surface of the mast is curved. Even a small miss makes the holes misalign for putting track back on. Can be painful. Here is an idea. First, drill and tap one hole for the new track placement. Screw the track on with that one hole. Now, for the next hole, get a piece of 1/4" OD tube and stick it in the next hole (when you have suitable aligned the track where you want it). Drill a hole at the ID size of the tubing. This hole will be properly centered. Then remove track, drill hole to proper size, and tap and reinstall track with two screws (I will assume the screws are 1/4-20 machine, probably 1/2" to 3/4" long). Then go to next hole repeating the process. Note that since the boom no longer needs to slide, the track can be quite short. When you have done all the screws, put on your hose clamp. Don't forget your Lanocote on the screws. Some caution, the original boom track on some older CALs was 7/8" rather than the modern 1" track. Getting a slider to fit this track can be tough (Rig-Rite sells them, but does not produce them very often.) A one inch slider with a hose clamp can be the fall back position. Someone said they used nuts on the inside of the mast. How did you get them in there? I'd love to know since I tried that. It is a good 3 feet up inside the mast. My fingers are tired. Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ken Sent: Monday, October 11, 2010 5:09 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken While sailing on my Cal 2-24 two of the screw heads on my mainsail luff track broke just above my boom, so that the lower track is now pulled away from the mast. Can anybody tell me what I need to do to fix these broken screws? For example, should just take the mast off, and take it to a machine shop to have folks better equipped drill them out? Thank you very much. Ken ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Shucks, thanks, Mike. That dissertation was the product of some painful experiences, and maybe a little thought. Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of mike farrell Sent: Monday, October 11, 2010 8:28 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken Damn good advice!!! My Best ,Mike Farrell From: "Husar, Charlie [USA]" <hu… [at] bah.com> To: "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Mon, October 11, 2010 5:21:47 PM Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken For Randy: Geez I thought I cooked up that hose clamp idea. On my CAL 25s, I put one right through the slider to hold it tight to the boom track and boom. I actually use two shorter ones (that can be butted to each other) to make the sizing easier. In the old days, the track was for an adjustment to allow more curl in the luff. Nowadays we attach the track fitting at the lowest point commensurate with the lower main band, and leave it there. Ken, a few comments. The track was attached with screws tapped into the thin mast section. This is why they come loose or break after a while. I've seen some tracks that people had welded to increase the strength. Of course welding aluminum (or whatever one calls that process) is apparently a touchy process. Hose clamps will do it. The track does not need to go into the same holes. No need to take down the mast. Just take off the track, and move it an inch with new holes. If you can't remove the broken screws, then grind them down to smooth. Might put some metal putty in the old holes to reduce leakage, and then sand. As far as the new holes go, getting centered holes is not easy, since the holes are smaller (need to be tapping size) than the 1/4 inch holes (I am assuming) in the track, and the surface of the mast is curved. Even a small miss makes the holes misalign for putting track back on. Can be painful. Here is an idea. First, drill and tap one hole for the new track placement. Screw the track on with that one hole. Now, for the next hole, get a piece of 1/4" OD tube and stick it in the next hole (when you have suitable aligned the track where you want it). Drill a hole at the ID size of the tubing. This hole will be properly centered. Then remove track, drill hole to proper size, and tap and reinstall track with two screws (I will assume the screws are 1/4-20 machine, probably 1/2" to 3/4" long). Then go to next hole repeating the process. Note that since the boom no longer needs to slide, the track can be quite short. When you have done all the screws, put on your hose clamp. Don't forget your Lanocote on the screws. Some caution, the original boom track on some older CALs was 7/8" rather than the modern 1" track. Getting a slider to fit this track can be tough (Rig-Rite sells them, but does not produce them very often.) A one inch slider with a hose clamp can be the fall back position. Someone said they used nuts on the inside of the mast. How did you get them in there? I'd love to know since I tried that. It is a good 3 feet up inside the mast. My fingers are tired. Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Ken Sent: Monday, October 11, 2010 5:09 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken While sailing on my Cal 2-24 two of the screw heads on my mainsail luff track broke just above my boom, so that the lower track is now pulled away from the mast. Can anybody tell me what I need to do to fix these broken screws? For example, should just take the mast off, and take it to a machine shop to have folks better equipped drill them out? Thank you very much. Ken ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links

Try to remove the old screws with an easy out type unit, one end will drill a tiny hole into the sheared off screw, the other end will back it out using a drill that turns in reverse. However, first try to remove the corroded, oxidized stuff with rinses of hot water (dried salty stuff) and then solvent like boshield before working on it. Maybe you won't have to tap for bigger screws. Helen From: "Husar, Charlie [USA]" <hu… [at] bah.com> To: "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Mon, October 11, 2010 5:21:47 PM Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken For Randy: Geez I thought I cooked up that hose clamp idea. On my CAL 25s, I put one right through the slider to hold it tight to the boom track and boom. I actually use two shorter ones (that can be butted to each other) to make the sizing easier. In the old days, the track was for an adjustment to allow more curl in the luff. Nowadays we attach the track fitting at the lowest point commensurate with the lower main band, and leave it there. Ken, a few comments. The track was attached with screws tapped into the thin mast section. This is why they come loose or break after a while. I've seen some tracks that people had welded to increase the strength. Of course welding aluminum (or whatever one calls that process) is apparently a touchy process. Hose clamps will do it. The track does not need to go into the same holes. No need to take down the mast. Just take off the track, and move it an inch with new holes. If you can't remove the broken screws, then grind them down to smooth. Might put some metal putty in the old holes to reduce leakage, and then sand. As far as the new holes go, getting centered holes is not easy, since the holes are smaller (need to be tapping size) than the 1/4 inch holes (I am assuming) in the track, and the surface of the mast is curved. Even a small miss makes the holes misalign for putting track back on. Can be painful. Here is an idea. First, drill and tap one hole for the new track placement. Screw the track on with that one hole. Now, for the next hole, get a piece of 1/4" OD tube and stick it in the next hole (when you have suitable aligned the track where you want it). Drill a hole at the ID size of the tubing. This hole will be properly centered. Then remove track, drill hole to proper size, and tap and reinstall track with two screws (I will assume the screws are 1/4-20 machine, probably 1/2" to 3/4" long). Then go to next hole repeating the process. Note that since the boom no longer needs to slide, the track can be quite short. When you have done all the screws, put on your hose clamp. Don't forget your Lanocote on the screws. Some caution, the original boom track on some older CALs was 7/8" rather than the modern 1" track. Getting a slider to fit this track can be tough (Rig-Rite sells them, but does not produce them very often.) A one inch slider with a hose clamp can be the fall back position. Someone said they used nuts on the inside of the mast. How did you get them in there? I'd love to know since I tried that. It is a good 3 feet up inside the mast. My fingers are tired. Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ken Sent: Monday, October 11, 2010 5:09 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken While sailing on my Cal 2-24 two of the screw heads on my mainsail luff track broke just above my boom, so that the lower track is now pulled away from the mast. Can anybody tell me what I need to do to fix these broken screws? For example, should just take the mast off, and take it to a machine shop to have folks better equipped drill them out? Thank you very much. Ken ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links

Thank you very much. I don't believe the inside of my track can take a larger screw head, so I am probably going to have to replace the screws with the same size screw. If I remove the old screws part way up the mast, so that I can get behind the track to work on the mast where the broken screws are, can the same size screws be used to reattach the track, or is there lost integrity once they are disturbed? Also, what does "tapping" the screws mean? Clearly, I have never done this sort of thing to my boat before. Thank you again. --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, Randy Alcorn <saylorran@...> wrote: > > Hi Ken, > > I have had it happen three times on my mast. The first time I took the track to > a machine shop and had the track remade with a larger screw size. I drilled out > the old screws and re-tapped them to the larger size. The second time I was able > to straighten the track and remove the screws with an easy out. However the > third time I bought a goose neck mount from http://www.lefiell.com/. I am going > to drop my mast and do other work and grind off the track and use the goose neck > mount. > > Currently my CAL 2-29 is leading both the Ventura county High Points and the > Santa Barbra Channel series which tracks races between clubs from Santa Barbra, > Ventura and Channel Island California. In order to finish the season I used > three stainless steel hose clamps to secure the sliding goose neck in place and > hold the track to the mast. I used black electrical tape between the stainless > steel and the mast to prevent galvanic corrosion. So far so good. Our race > season ends in December and starts in middle of Jan. > > Randy > > CAL 2-29 > Out Patient > Channel Islands Ca > > >  > > > > ________________________________ > From: Ken <kclark@...> > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > Sent: Sun, October 10, 2010 4:13:35 PM > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken > >  > Today,while sailing on my Cal 2-24 two of the screw heads on my mainsail luff > track broke just above my boom, so that the lower track is now pulled away from > the mast. Can anybody tell me what I need to do to fix these broken screws? For > example, should just take the mast off, and take it to a machine shop to have > folks better equipped drill them out? Thank you very much. Ken >

I believe you are exactly correct. Before I left the mooring, I reefed the main, and tightened the clew before the tack. I guess the tack should have been closer to the mast, but I didn't want the luff to chafe on the mast. I'm not too experienced with technical details like that. I sail on a lake, and seldom go out when the winds are too strong, and I have never reefed while under sail - only before leaving the mooring. --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, Allen Edwards <allen.edwards@...> wrote: > > I know nothing of your problem but if it were my boat I would want to know > why they broke before I fixed them. Perhaps you have a new sail that isn't > right. Perhaps you reefed and tightened the clew before the tack. > Something is wrong as there really should not be enough force there to > break screws. If you really feel that nothing broke them, you might want to > replace all of them all the way up. > > > Allen > > > On Sun, Oct 10, 2010 at 4:13 PM, Ken <kclark@...> wrote: > > > > > > > Today,while sailing on my Cal 2-24 two of the screw heads on my mainsail > > luff track broke just above my boom, so that the lower track is now pulled > > away from the mast. Can anybody tell me what I need to do to fix these > > broken screws? For example, should just take the mast off, and take it to a > > machine shop to have folks better equipped drill them out? Thank you very > > much. Ken > > > > > > >

Congratulations on your racing success. I've never raced a sailboat. I've been sailing my cal for about 10 years on Lake St. Clair in Michigan, Kentucky Lake, and now Lake George in NY. I'm a fair weather sailor. My sailing ability allows me to sail on and off my mooring, but not too skilled or experienced with boat repairs. Can do the fiberglass stuff to the hull with the west system, but have never done anything with my running rigging. --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, Randy Alcorn <saylorran@...> wrote: > > Hi Ken, > > I have had it happen three times on my mast. The first time I took the track to > a machine shop and had the track remade with a larger screw size. I drilled out > the old screws and re-tapped them to the larger size. The second time I was able > to straighten the track and remove the screws with an easy out. However the > third time I bought a goose neck mount from http://www.lefiell.com/. I am going > to drop my mast and do other work and grind off the track and use the goose neck > mount. > > Currently my CAL 2-29 is leading both the Ventura county High Points and the > Santa Barbra Channel series which tracks races between clubs from Santa Barbra, > Ventura and Channel Island California. In order to finish the season I used > three stainless steel hose clamps to secure the sliding goose neck in place and > hold the track to the mast. I used black electrical tape between the stainless > steel and the mast to prevent galvanic corrosion. So far so good. Our race > season ends in December and starts in middle of Jan. > > Randy > > CAL 2-29 > Out Patient > Channel Islands Ca > > >  > > > > ________________________________ > From: Ken <kclark@...> > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > Sent: Sun, October 10, 2010 4:13:35 PM > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken > >  > Today,while sailing on my Cal 2-24 two of the screw heads on my mainsail luff > track broke just above my boom, so that the lower track is now pulled away from > the mast. Can anybody tell me what I need to do to fix these broken screws? For > example, should just take the mast off, and take it to a machine shop to have > folks better equipped drill them out? Thank you very much. Ken >

Always tighten the halyard when setting a reef before pulling in the reef line on the clew. You now know why. Allen On Mon, Oct 11, 2010 at 6:34 PM, Ken <kc… [at] glensfallshosp.org> wrote: > > > I believe you are exactly correct. Before I left the mooring, I reefed the > main, and tightened the clew before the tack. I guess the tack should have > been closer to the mast, but I didn't want the luff to chafe on the mast. > I'm not too experienced with technical details like that. I sail on a lake, > and seldom go out when the winds are too strong, and I have never reefed > while under sail - only before leaving the mooring. > > --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com>, Allen > Edwards <allen.edwards@...> wrote: > > > > I know nothing of your problem but if it were my boat I would want to > know > > why they broke before I fixed them. Perhaps you have a new sail that > isn't > > right. Perhaps you reefed and tightened the clew before the tack. > > Something is wrong as there really should not be enough force there to > > break screws. If you really feel that nothing broke them, you might want > to > > replace all of them all the way up. > > > > > > Allen > > > > > > > On Sun, Oct 10, 2010 at 4:13 PM, Ken <kclark@...> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > Today,while sailing on my Cal 2-24 two of the screw heads on my > mainsail > > > luff track broke just above my boom, so that the lower track is now > pulled > > > away from the mast. Can anybody tell me what I need to do to fix these > > > broken screws? For example, should just take the mast off, and take it > to a > > > machine shop to have folks better equipped drill them out? Thank you > very > > > much. Ken > > > > > > > > > > > > > >

If you can remove the screws, assuming the heads snapped off because of stress wear back and forth, by getting them to unscrew, then you only had bad screws, unless they worked on the threads too.Then you can see if the threaded mast holes are good (flashlight, magnifying glass if needed). I got my little easyout bits which are double-ended with a drill on one and the reverse bit on the other from OSH which is under Sears' command in California now. They come in sizes to handle little screws like 4, 6, 8,(those are wood screw sizes) (but compare to machine screws like 10/32 for example) one to a package, and they sort of remind you of one of those pins with which you put a watchband back on. You want it smaller than the shaft of the screw so it doesn't damage the material or threads you are extracting it from. It also should let you do this right through the mast track since it is smaller than the track hole. Tapping makes new threads into material, usually larger diameter than the old one.. so new screws would be bigger, not what you want as you say. Helen From: Ken <kc… [at] glensfallshosp.org> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Mon, October 11, 2010 6:14:48 PM Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken Thank you very much. I don't believe the inside of my track can take a larger screw head, so I am probably going to have to replace the screws with the same size screw. If I remove the old screws part way up the mast, so that I can get behind the track to work on the mast where the broken screws are, can the same size screws be used to reattach the track, or is there lost integrity once they are disturbed? Also, what does "tapping" the screws mean? Clearly, I have never done this sort of thing to my boat before. Thank you again. --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, Randy Alcorn <saylorran@...> wrote: > > Hi Ken, > > I have had it happen three times on my mast. The first time I took the track >to > > a machine shop and had the track remade with a larger screw size. I drilled >out > > the old screws and re-tapped them to the larger size. The second time I was >able > > to straighten the track and remove the screws with an easy out. However the > third time I bought a goose neck mount from http://www.lefiell.com/. I am going > > to drop my mast and do other work and grind off the track and use the goose >neck > > mount. > > Currently my CAL 2-29 is leading both the Ventura county High Points and the > Santa Barbra Channel series which tracks races between clubs from Santa Barbra, > > Ventura and Channel Island California. In order to finish the season I used > three stainless steel hose clamps to secure the sliding goose neck in place and > > hold the track to the mast. I used black electrical tape between the stainless > steel and the mast to prevent galvanic corrosion. So far so good. Our race > season ends in December and starts in middle of Jan. > > Randy > > CAL 2-29 > Out Patient > Channel Islands Ca > > >  > > > > ________________________________ > From: Ken <kclark@...> > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > Sent: Sun, October 10, 2010 4:13:35 PM > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken > >  > Today,while sailing on my Cal 2-24 two of the screw heads on my mainsail luff > track broke just above my boom, so that the lower track is now pulled away from > > the mast. Can anybody tell me what I need to do to fix these broken screws? For > > example, should just take the mast off, and take it to a machine shop to have > folks better equipped drill them out? Thank you very much. Ken >

Randy, as a 2-29 sailor and 29 racer, I am most interested in what you attribute your success to in the way of boat modifications and choice of headsails vs. conditions. (we know your a great sailor!) Mark From: Ken To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, October 11, 2010 6:44 PM Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken Congratulations on your racing success. I've never raced a sailboat. I've been sailing my cal for about 10 years on Lake St. Clair in Michigan, Kentucky Lake, and now Lake George in NY. I'm a fair weather sailor. My sailing ability allows me to sail on and off my mooring, but not too skilled or experienced with boat repairs. Can do the fiberglass stuff to the hull with the west system, but have never done anything with my running rigging. --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, Randy Alcorn <saylorran@...> wrote: > > Hi Ken, > > I have had it happen three times on my mast. The first time I took the track to > a machine shop and had the track remade with a larger screw size. I drilled out > the old screws and re-tapped them to the larger size. The second time I was able > to straighten the track and remove the screws with an easy out. However the > third time I bought a goose neck mount from http://www.lefiell.com/. I am going > to drop my mast and do other work and grind off the track and use the goose neck > mount. > > Currently my CAL 2-29 is leading both the Ventura county High Points and the > Santa Barbra Channel series which tracks races between clubs from Santa Barbra, > Ventura and Channel Island California. In order to finish the season I used > three stainless steel hose clamps to secure the sliding goose neck in place and > hold the track to the mast. I used black electrical tape between the stainless > steel and the mast to prevent galvanic corrosion. So far so good. Our race > season ends in December and starts in middle of Jan. > > Randy > > CAL 2-29 > Out Patient > Channel Islands Ca > > >  > > > > ________________________________ > From: Ken <kclark@...> > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > Sent: Sun, October 10, 2010 4:13:35 PM > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken > >  > Today,while sailing on my Cal 2-24 two of the screw heads on my mainsail luff > track broke just above my boom, so that the lower track is now pulled away from > the mast. Can anybody tell me what I need to do to fix these broken screws? For > example, should just take the mast off, and take it to a machine shop to have > folks better equipped drill them out? Thank you very much. Ken > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5524 (20101012) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5524 (20101012) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com

Mark. I wish I knew the magic secret. I have sailed my boat for over 10 years and learned my competition. I followed the recipe of the PHRF SOCAL website. http://www.phrfsocal.org/perspective/perspective.php A. Learn to sail your boat with the sails you have. B. Once you get the experience, start improving your sails, bottom and trim, right now I focus on minute trim. C. Time on water with a dedicated crew equals success. Other than that,. it is sail in clean air, sail at 10-15 degrees and change head sails when the boat get over 25 degrees. I wish I could sail against other CAL 29"s to learn more. but I am sailing against a Islander 29, CAl 25 and Catalina 27's in the non spin class and Moore 24's, J 24's and J 30's in the spin class in my area. I just focus on being top 3 pole positions. I could go on but that is why I would like to get a means to allow our crews to sail on different boats out here, I have always been Jealous of Class Sea and Mariposa and their winnings. Vr Randy CAl 2-29\ Out Patient Channel Islands, Ca From: Mark Alan Stahnke (MAS Consulting) <ma… [at] cox.net> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Tue, October 12, 2010 7:50:59 AM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Re: Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken Randy, as a 2-29 sailor and 29 racer, I am most interested in what you attribute your success to in the way of boat modifications and choice of headsails vs. conditions. (we know your a great sailor!) Mark From: Ken >To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com >Sent: Monday, October 11, 2010 6:44 PM >Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken > > >Congratulations on your racing success. I've never raced a sailboat. I've been >sailing my cal for about 10 years on Lake St. Clair in Michigan, Kentucky Lake, >and now Lake George in NY. I'm a fair weather sailor. My sailing ability allows >me to sail on and off my mooring, but not too skilled or experienced with boat >repairs. Can do the fiberglass stuff to the hull with the west system, but have >never done anything with my running rigging. > > >--- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, Randy Alcorn <saylorran@...> wrote: >> >> Hi Ken, >> >> I have had it happen three times on my mast. The first time I took the track >>to >> >> a machine shop and had the track remade with a larger screw size. I drilled >>out >> >> the old screws and re-tapped them to the larger size. The second time I was >>able >> >> to straighten the track and remove the screws with an easy out. However the >> third time I bought a goose neck mount from http://www.lefiell.com/. I am going >> >> to drop my mast and do other work and grind off the track and use the goose >>neck >> >> mount. >> >> Currently my CAL 2-29 is leading both the Ventura county High Points and the >> Santa Barbra Channel series which tracks races between clubs from Santa Barbra, >> >> Ventura and Channel Island California. In order to finish the season I used >> three stainless steel hose clamps to secure the sliding goose neck in place and >> >> hold the track to the mast. I used black electrical tape between the stainless > >> steel and the mast to prevent galvanic corrosion. So far so good. Our race >> season ends in December and starts in middle of Jan. >> >> Randy >> >> CAL 2-29 >> Out Patient >> Channel Islands Ca >> >> >>  >> >> >> >> ________________________________ >> From: Ken <kclark@...> >> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com >> Sent: Sun, October 10, 2010 4:13:35 PM >> Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken >> >>  >> Today,while sailing on my Cal 2-24 two of the screw heads on my mainsail luff >> track broke just above my boom, so that the lower track is now pulled away from >> >> the mast. Can anybody tell me what I need to do to fix these broken screws? For >> >> example, should just take the mast off, and take it to a machine shop to have >> folks better equipped drill them out? Thank you very much. Ken >> > > > >__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature >database 5524 (20101012) __________ > >The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. > >http://www.eset.com > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5524 (20101012) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com

Thank you very much Helen. You're terrific, and very clear in your articulation. Just what I needed. I'll determine the screw size, and order the bits from your OSH. Ken --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, Helen Horn <helenhorn@...> wrote: > > If you can remove the screws, assuming the heads snapped off because of > stress wear back and forth, by getting them to unscrew, then you only had bad > screws, unless they worked on the threads too.Then you can see if the threaded > mast holes are good (flashlight, magnifying glass if needed). I got my little > easyout bits which are double-ended with a drill on one and the reverse bit on > the other from OSH which is under Sears' command in California now. They come in > sizes to handle little screws like 4, 6, 8,(those are wood screw sizes) (but > compare to machine screws like 10/32 for example) one to a package, and they > sort of remind you of one of those pins with which you put a watchband back on. > You want it smaller than the shaft of the screw so it doesn't damage the > material or threads you are extracting it from. It also should let you do this > right through the mast track since it is smaller than the track hole. Tapping > makes new threads into material, usually larger diameter than the old one.. so > new screws would be bigger, not what you want as you say. Helen > > > > > > ________________________________ > From: Ken <kclark@...> > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > Sent: Mon, October 11, 2010 6:14:48 PM > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken > > > Thank you very much. I don't believe the inside of my track can take a larger > screw head, so I am probably going to have to replace the screws with the same > size screw. If I remove the old screws part way up the mast, so that I can get > behind the track to work on the mast where the broken screws are, can the same > size screws be used to reattach the track, or is there lost integrity once they > are disturbed? Also, what does "tapping" the screws mean? Clearly, I have never > done this sort of thing to my boat before. Thank you again. > > --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, Randy Alcorn <saylorran@> wrote: > > > > Hi Ken, > > > > I have had it happen three times on my mast. The first time I took the track > >to > > > > a machine shop and had the track remade with a larger screw size. I drilled > >out > > > > the old screws and re-tapped them to the larger size. The second time I was > >able > > > > to straighten the track and remove the screws with an easy out. However the > > third time I bought a goose neck mount from http://www.lefiell.com/. I am going > > > > to drop my mast and do other work and grind off the track and use the goose > >neck > > > > mount. > > > > Currently my CAL 2-29 is leading both the Ventura county High Points and the > > Santa Barbra Channel series which tracks races between clubs from Santa Barbra, > > > > Ventura and Channel Island California. In order to finish the season I used > > three stainless steel hose clamps to secure the sliding goose neck in place and > > > > hold the track to the mast. I used black electrical tape between the stainless > > > steel and the mast to prevent galvanic corrosion. So far so good. Our race > > season ends in December and starts in middle of Jan. > > > > Randy > > > > CAL 2-29 > > Out Patient > > Channel Islands Ca > > > > > >  > > > > > > > > ________________________________ > > From: Ken <kclark@> > > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > > Sent: Sun, October 10, 2010 4:13:35 PM > > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken > > > >  > > Today,while sailing on my Cal 2-24 two of the screw heads on my mainsail luff > > track broke just above my boom, so that the lower track is now pulled away from > > > > the mast. Can anybody tell me what I need to do to fix these broken screws? For > > > > example, should just take the mast off, and take it to a machine shop to have > > folks better equipped drill them out? Thank you very much. Ken > > >

What Helen is saying is correct but in my experience it never is that easy. If the screws are bronze, you are in luck so go with what Helen is saying. If the screws are stainless steel, it is unlikely that it will work. Aluminum and stainless form some kind of corrosion bond that is very difficult to break. Note that drilling stainless needs Cobalt drill bits. And not Kobalt as in the Lowels store brand. I have never had an easy out work for me. What I do is drill out the screw and re-tap. If you are really lucky, you can drill out the center of the screw and pull the threads out like removing a spring. I would give that a 10% chance of working. You should also be award of heli-coils. What you do with these is drill out the hole larger, tap it with a special tap, and insert the heli-coil which now has a thread size for your desired screw size. The result is actually stronger than if you did not use them. If is very difficult to drill stainless steel though. I would grind the surface first to make it flat and get a center punch in there somehow (not sure how) to give the drill bit a place to rest so it doesn't wonder over to the outside of the screw. If you drill off center and hit the aluminum, the drill bit will prefer the aluminum and wonder over way off center. The best thing is to hope the screws are bronze. :-) Allen On Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 5:38 PM, Ken <kc… [at] glensfallshosp.org> wrote: > > > Thank you very much Helen. You're terrific, and very clear in your > articulation. Just what I needed. I'll determine the screw size, and order > the bits from your OSH. Ken > > --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com>, Helen Horn > <helenhorn@...> wrote: > > > > If you can remove the screws, assuming the heads snapped off because of > > stress wear back and forth, by getting them to unscrew, then you only had > bad > > screws, unless they worked on the threads too.Then you can see if the > threaded > > mast holes are good (flashlight, magnifying glass if needed). I got my > little > > easyout bits which are double-ended with a drill on one and the reverse > bit on > > the other from OSH which is under Sears' command in California now. They > come in > > sizes to handle little screws like 4, 6, 8,(those are wood screw sizes) > (but > > compare to machine screws like 10/32 for example) one to a package, and > they > > sort of remind you of one of those pins with which you put a watchband > back on. > > You want it smaller than the shaft of the screw so it doesn't damage the > > material or threads you are extracting it from. It also should let you do > this > > right through the mast track since it is smaller than the track hole. > Tapping > > makes new threads into material, usually larger diameter than the old > one.. so > > new screws would be bigger, not what you want as you say. Helen > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ > > From: Ken <kclark@...> > > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> > > Sent: Mon, October 11, 2010 6:14:48 PM > > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken > > > > > > Thank you very much. I don't believe the inside of my track can take a > larger > > screw head, so I am probably going to have to replace the screws with the > same > > size screw. If I remove the old screws part way up the mast, so that I > can get > > behind the track to work on the mast where the broken screws are, can the > same > > size screws be used to reattach the track, or is there lost integrity > once they > > are disturbed? Also, what does "tapping" the screws mean? Clearly, I have > never > > done this sort of thing to my boat before. Thank you again. > > > > --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com>, Randy > Alcorn <saylorran@> wrote: > > > > > > Hi Ken, > > > > > > I have had it happen three times on my mast. The first time I took > the track > > >to > > > > > > a machine shop and had the track remade with a larger screw size. I > drilled > > >out > > > > > > the old screws and re-tapped them to the larger size. The second time I > was > > >able > > > > > > to straighten the track and remove the screws with an easy out. > However the > > > third time I bought a goose neck mount from http://www.lefiell.com/. I > am going > > > > > > to drop my mast and do other work and grind off the track and use the > goose > > >neck > > > > > > mount. > > > > > > Currently my CAL 2-29 is leading both the Ventura county High Points > and the > > > Santa Barbra Channel series which tracks races between clubs from Santa > Barbra, > > > > > > Ventura and Channel Island California. In order to finish the season I > used > > > three stainless steel hose clamps to secure the sliding goose neck in > place and > > > > > > hold the track to the mast. I used black electrical tape between the > stainless > > > > > steel and the mast to prevent galvanic corrosion. So far so good. Our > race > > > season ends in December and starts in middle of Jan. > > > > > > Randy > > > > > > CAL 2-29 > > > Out Patient > > > Channel Islands Ca > > > > > > > > >  > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ > > > From: Ken <kclark@> > > > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> > > > Sent: Sun, October 10, 2010 4:13:35 PM > > > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken > > > > > >  > > > Today,while sailing on my Cal 2-24 two of the screw heads on my > mainsail luff > > > track broke just above my boom, so that the lower track is now pulled > away from > > > > > > the mast. Can anybody tell me what I need to do to fix these broken > screws? For > > > > > > example, should just take the mast off, and take it to a machine shop > to have > > > folks better equipped drill them out? Thank you very much. Ken > > > > > > > >

Another path here, which in materials thick enough to make it practical, is to use Heli-Coils. Heli-Coils have several advantages: 1) They are stainless steel 2) They are stronger than the original threads 3) They end up, post-repair, at the original thread size. I have used them successfully for 35+ years. Don --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, Allen Edwards <allen.edwards@...> wrote: > > What Helen is saying is correct but in my experience it never is that easy. > If the screws are bronze, you are in luck so go with what Helen is saying. > If the screws are stainless steel, it is unlikely that it will work. > Aluminum and stainless form some kind of corrosion bond that is very > difficult to break. Note that drilling stainless needs Cobalt drill bits. > And not Kobalt as in the Lowels store brand. I have never had an easy out > work for me. What I do is drill out the screw and re-tap. If you are > really lucky, you can drill out the center of the screw and pull the threads > out like removing a spring. I would give that a 10% chance of working. You > should also be award of heli-coils. What you do with these is drill out the > hole larger, tap it with a special tap, and insert the heli-coil which now > has a thread size for your desired screw size. The result is actually > stronger than if you did not use them. If is very difficult to drill > stainless steel though. I would grind the surface first to make it flat and > get a center punch in there somehow (not sure how) to give the drill bit a > place to rest so it doesn't wonder over to the outside of the screw. If you > drill off center and hit the aluminum, the drill bit will prefer the > aluminum and wonder over way off center. The best thing is to hope the > screws are bronze. :-) > > Allen > > > On Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 5:38 PM, Ken <kclark@...> wrote: > > > > > > > Thank you very much Helen. You're terrific, and very clear in your > > articulation. Just what I needed. I'll determine the screw size, and order > > the bits from your OSH. Ken > > > > --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com>, Helen Horn > > <helenhorn@> wrote: > > > > > > If you can remove the screws, assuming the heads snapped off because of > > > stress wear back and forth, by getting them to unscrew, then you only had > > bad > > > screws, unless they worked on the threads too.Then you can see if the > > threaded > > > mast holes are good (flashlight, magnifying glass if needed). I got my > > little > > > easyout bits which are double-ended with a drill on one and the reverse > > bit on > > > the other from OSH which is under Sears' command in California now. They > > come in > > > sizes to handle little screws like 4, 6, 8,(those are wood screw sizes) > > (but > > > compare to machine screws like 10/32 for example) one to a package, and > > they > > > sort of remind you of one of those pins with which you put a watchband > > back on. > > > You want it smaller than the shaft of the screw so it doesn't damage the > > > material or threads you are extracting it from. It also should let you do > > this > > > right through the mast track since it is smaller than the track hole. > > Tapping > > > makes new threads into material, usually larger diameter than the old > > one.. so > > > new screws would be bigger, not what you want as you say. Helen > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ > > > From: Ken <kclark@> > > > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> > > > Sent: Mon, October 11, 2010 6:14:48 PM > > > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken > > > > > > > > > Thank you very much. I don't believe the inside of my track can take a > > larger > > > screw head, so I am probably going to have to replace the screws with the > > same > > > size screw. If I remove the old screws part way up the mast, so that I > > can get > > > behind the track to work on the mast where the broken screws are, can the > > same > > > size screws be used to reattach the track, or is there lost integrity > > once they > > > are disturbed? Also, what does "tapping" the screws mean? Clearly, I have > > never > > > done this sort of thing to my boat before. Thank you again. > > > > > > --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com>, Randy > > Alcorn <saylorran@> wrote: > > > > > > > > Hi Ken, > > > > > > > > I have had it happen three times on my mast. The first time I took > > the track > > > >to > > > > > > > > a machine shop and had the track remade with a larger screw size. I > > drilled > > > >out > > > > > > > > the old screws and re-tapped them to the larger size. The second time I > > was > > > >able > > > > > > > > to straighten the track and remove the screws with an easy out. > > However the > > > > third time I bought a goose neck mount from http://www.lefiell.com/. I > > am going > > > > > > > > to drop my mast and do other work and grind off the track and use the > > goose > > > >neck > > > > > > > > mount. > > > > > > > > Currently my CAL 2-29 is leading both the Ventura county High Points > > and the > > > > Santa Barbra Channel series which tracks races between clubs from Santa > > Barbra, > > > > > > > > Ventura and Channel Island California. In order to finish the season I > > used > > > > three stainless steel hose clamps to secure the sliding goose neck in > > place and > > > > > > > > hold the track to the mast. I used black electrical tape between the > > stainless > > > > > > > steel and the mast to prevent galvanic corrosion. So far so good. Our > > race > > > > season ends in December and starts in middle of Jan. > > > > > > > > Randy > > > > > > > > CAL 2-29 > > > > Out Patient > > > > Channel Islands Ca > > > > > > > > > > > >  > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ > > > > From: Ken <kclark@> > > > > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> > > > > Sent: Sun, October 10, 2010 4:13:35 PM > > > > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken > > > > > > > >  > > > > Today,while sailing on my Cal 2-24 two of the screw heads on my > > mainsail luff > > > > track broke just above my boom, so that the lower track is now pulled > > away from > > > > > > > > the mast. Can anybody tell me what I need to do to fix these broken > > screws? For > > > > > > > > example, should just take the mast off, and take it to a machine shop > > to have > > > > folks better equipped drill them out? Thank you very much. Ken > > > > > > > > > > > > > >

I go with moving the track an inch up or down and making new tapped holes. I think it easier in the end. Yes, the thinness of the material is a problem. Then there is that hose clamp that was mentioned previously. Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of elmerbug Sent: Friday, October 15, 2010 11:58 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken Another path here, which in materials thick enough to make it practical, is to use Heli-Coils. Heli-Coils have several advantages: 1) They are stainless steel 2) They are stronger than the original threads 3) They end up, post-repair, at the original thread size. I have used them successfully for 35+ years. Don --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, Allen Edwards <allen.edwards@...> wrote: > > What Helen is saying is correct but in my experience it never is that easy. > If the screws are bronze, you are in luck so go with what Helen is saying. > If the screws are stainless steel, it is unlikely that it will work. > Aluminum and stainless form some kind of corrosion bond that is very > difficult to break. Note that drilling stainless needs Cobalt drill bits. > And not Kobalt as in the Lowels store brand. I have never had an > easy out work for me. What I do is drill out the screw and re-tap. > If you are really lucky, you can drill out the center of the screw and > pull the threads out like removing a spring. I would give that a 10% > chance of working. You should also be award of heli-coils. What you > do with these is drill out the hole larger, tap it with a special tap, > and insert the heli-coil which now has a thread size for your desired > screw size. The result is actually stronger than if you did not use > them. If is very difficult to drill stainless steel though. I would > grind the surface first to make it flat and get a center punch in > there somehow (not sure how) to give the drill bit a place to rest so > it doesn't wonder over to the outside of the screw. If you drill off > center and hit the aluminum, the drill bit will prefer the aluminum > and wonder over way off center. The best thing is to hope the screws > are bronze. :-) > > Allen > > > On Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 5:38 PM, Ken <kclark@...> wrote: > > > > > > > Thank you very much Helen. You're terrific, and very clear in your > > articulation. Just what I needed. I'll determine the screw size, and > > order the bits from your OSH. Ken > > > > --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com>, > > Helen Horn <helenhorn@> wrote: > > > > > > If you can remove the screws, assuming the heads snapped off > > > because of stress wear back and forth, by getting them to unscrew, > > > then you only had > > bad > > > screws, unless they worked on the threads too.Then you can see if > > > the > > threaded > > > mast holes are good (flashlight, magnifying glass if needed). I > > > got my > > little > > > easyout bits which are double-ended with a drill on one and the > > > reverse > > bit on > > > the other from OSH which is under Sears' command in California > > > now. They > > come in > > > sizes to handle little screws like 4, 6, 8,(those are wood screw > > > sizes) > > (but > > > compare to machine screws like 10/32 for example) one to a > > > package, and > > they > > > sort of remind you of one of those pins with which you put a > > > watchband > > back on. > > > You want it smaller than the shaft of the screw so it doesn't > > > damage the material or threads you are extracting it from. It also > > > should let you do > > this > > > right through the mast track since it is smaller than the track hole. > > Tapping > > > makes new threads into material, usually larger diameter than the > > > old > > one.. so > > > new screws would be bigger, not what you want as you say. Helen > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ > > > From: Ken <kclark@> > > > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> > > > Sent: Mon, October 11, 2010 6:14:48 PM > > > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken > > > > > > > > > Thank you very much. I don't believe the inside of my track can > > > take a > > larger > > > screw head, so I am probably going to have to replace the screws > > > with the > > same > > > size screw. If I remove the old screws part way up the mast, so > > > that I > > can get > > > behind the track to work on the mast where the broken screws are, > > > can the > > same > > > size screws be used to reattach the track, or is there lost > > > integrity > > once they > > > are disturbed? Also, what does "tapping" the screws mean? Clearly, > > > I have > > never > > > done this sort of thing to my boat before. Thank you again. > > > > > > --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com>, > > > Randy > > Alcorn <saylorran@> wrote: > > > > > > > > Hi Ken, > > > > > > > > I have had it happen three timesÃ, on my mast. The first time I > > > > took > > the track > > > >to > > > > > > > > a machine shop and hadÃ, the trackÃ, remade with a larger screw > > > > size. I > > drilled > > > >out > > > > > > > > the old screws and re-tapped them to the larger size. The second > > > > time I > > was > > > >able > > > > > > > > to straighten the track andÃ, remove the screws with an easy out. > > However the > > > > third time I bought a goose neck mount from > > > > http://www.lefiell.com/. I > > am going > > > > > > > > to drop my mast and do other work and grind off the track and > > > > use the > > goose > > > >neck > > > > > > > > mount. > > > > > > > > Currently my CAL 2-29 is leading both the Ventura county High > > > > Points > > and the > > > > Santa Barbra Channel series which tracks races between clubs > > > > from Santa > > Barbra, > > > > > > > > Ventura and Channel Island California. In order to finish the > > > > season I > > used > > > > three stainless steel hose clamps to secure the sliding goose > > > > neck in > > place and > > > > > > > > hold the track to the mast. I used black electrical tape between > > > > the > > stainless > > > > > > > steel and the mast to prevent galvanic corrosion. So far so > > > > good. Our > > race > > > > season ends in December and starts in middle of Jan. > > > > > > > > Randy > > > > > > > > CAL 2-29 > > > > Out Patient > > > > Channel Islands Ca > > > > > > > > > > > > Ã, > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ > > > > From: Ken <kclark@> > > > > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> > > > > Sent: Sun, October 10, 2010 4:13:35 PM > > > > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken > > > > > > > > Ã, > > > > Today,while sailing on my Cal 2-24 two of the screw heads on my > > mainsail luff > > > > track broke just above my boom, so that the lower track is now > > > > pulled > > away from > > > > > > > > the mast. Can anybody tell me what I need to do to fix these > > > > broken > > screws? For > > > > > > > > example, should just take the mast off, and take it to a machine > > > > shop > > to have > > > > folks better equipped drill them out? Thank you very much. Ken > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links

What about forgetting about re doing the exsisting hole, and drilling and tapping a new connection/ hole next to it? And, what about just putting in a pop rivet? Dip it, and plaster the hole with silicone grease first to prevent galvanic reaction before inserting. I recommend silicone grease (obtainable from a pool supply) every time you are in a dis similar metal connection situation, and, when crimping wire connections, or even on screw terminal wire connections. It, or comparable stuff, is a blessing...unless you like the look of corrosion and what it does. Jerry --- On Fri, 10/15/10, Husar, Charlie [USA] <hu… [at] bah.com> wrote: From: Husar, Charlie [USA] <hu… [at] bah.com> Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] Re: Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken To: "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Date: Friday, October 15, 2010, 9:32 AM I go with moving the track an inch up or down and making new tapped holes. I think it easier in the end. Yes, the thinness of the material is a problem. Then there is that hose clamp that was mentioned previously. Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of elmerbug Sent: Friday, October 15, 2010 11:58 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken Another path here, which in materials thick enough to make it practical, is to use Heli-Coils. Heli-Coils have several advantages: 1) They are stainless steel 2) They are stronger than the original threads 3) They end up, post-repair, at the original thread size. I have used them successfully for 35+ years. Don --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, Allen Edwards <allen.edwards@...> wrote: > > What Helen is saying is correct but in my experience it never is that easy. > If the screws are bronze, you are in luck so go with what Helen is saying. > If the screws are stainless steel, it is unlikely that it will work. > Aluminum and stainless form some kind of corrosion bond that is very > difficult to break. Note that drilling stainless needs Cobalt drill bits. > And not Kobalt as in the Lowels store brand. I have never had an > easy out work for me. What I do is drill out the screw and re-tap. > If you are really lucky, you can drill out the center of the screw and > pull the threads out like removing a spring. I would give that a 10% > chance of working. You should also be award of heli-coils. What you > do with these is drill out the hole larger, tap it with a special tap, > and insert the heli-coil which now has a thread size for your desired > screw size. The result is actually stronger than if you did not use > them. If is very difficult to drill stainless steel though. I would > grind the surface first to make it flat and get a center punch in > there somehow (not sure how) to give the drill bit a place to rest so > it doesn't wonder over to the outside of the screw. If you drill off > center and hit the aluminum, the drill bit will prefer the aluminum > and wonder over way off center. The best thing is to hope the screws > are bronze. :-) > > Allen > > > On Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 5:38 PM, Ken <kclark@...> wrote: > > > > > > > Thank you very much Helen. You're terrific, and very clear in your > > articulation. Just what I needed. I'll determine the screw size, and > > order the bits from your OSH. Ken > > > > --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com>, > > Helen Horn <helenhorn@> wrote: > > > > > > If you can remove the screws, assuming the heads snapped off > > > because of stress wear back and forth, by getting them to unscrew, > > > then you only had > > bad > > > screws, unless they worked on the threads too.Then you can see if > > > the > > threaded > > > mast holes are good (flashlight, magnifying glass if needed). I > > > got my > > little > > > easyout bits which are double-ended with a drill on one and the > > > reverse > > bit on > > > the other from OSH which is under Sears' command in California > > > now. They > > come in > > > sizes to handle little screws like 4, 6, 8,(those are wood screw > > > sizes) > > (but > > > compare to machine screws like 10/32 for example) one to a > > > package, and > > they > > > sort of remind you of one of those pins with which you put a > > > watchband > > back on. > > > You want it smaller than the shaft of the screw so it doesn't > > > damage the material or threads you are extracting it from. It also > > > should let you do > > this > > > right through the mast track since it is smaller than the track hole. > > Tapping > > > makes new threads into material, usually larger diameter than the > > > old > > one.. so > > > new screws would be bigger, not what you want as you say. Helen > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ > > > From: Ken <kclark@> > > > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> > > > Sent: Mon, October 11, 2010 6:14:48 PM > > > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken > > > > > > > > > Thank you very much. I don't believe the inside of my track can > > > take a > > larger > > > screw head, so I am probably going to have to replace the screws > > > with the > > same > > > size screw. If I remove the old screws part way up the mast, so > > > that I > > can get > > > behind the track to work on the mast where the broken screws are, > > > can the > > same > > > size screws be used to reattach the track, or is there lost > > > integrity > > once they > > > are disturbed? Also, what does "tapping" the screws mean? Clearly, > > > I have > > never > > > done this sort of thing to my boat before. Thank you again. > > > > > > --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com>, > > > Randy > > Alcorn <saylorran@> wrote: > > > > > > > > Hi Ken, > > > > > > > > I have had it happen three timesÃ, on my mast. The first time I > > > > took > > the track > > > >to > > > > > > > > a machine shop and hadÃ, the trackÃ, remade with a larger screw > > > > size. I > > drilled > > > >out > > > > > > > > the old screws and re-tapped them to the larger size. The second > > > > time I > > was > > > >able > > > > > > > > to straighten the track andÃ, remove the screws with an easy out. > > However the > > > > third time I bought a goose neck mount from > > > > http://www.lefiell.com/. I > > am going > > > > > > > > to drop my mast and do other work and grind off the track and > > > > use the > > goose > > > >neck > > > > > > > > mount. > > > > > > > > Currently my CAL 2-29 is leading both the Ventura county High > > > > Points > > and the > > > > Santa Barbra Channel series which tracks races between clubs > > > > from Santa > > Barbra, > > > > > > > > Ventura and Channel Island California. In order to finish the > > > > season I > > used > > > > three stainless steel hose clamps to secure the sliding goose > > > > neck in > > place and > > > > > > > > hold the track to the mast. I used black electrical tape between > > > > the > > stainless > > > > > > > steel and the mast to prevent galvanic corrosion. So far so > > > > good. Our > > race > > > > season ends in December and starts in middle of Jan. > > > > > > > > Randy > > > > > > > > CAL 2-29 > > > > Out Patient > > > > Channel Islands Ca > > > > > > > > > > > > Ã, > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ > > > > From: Ken <kclark@> > > > > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> > > > > Sent: Sun, October 10, 2010 4:13:35 PM > > > > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken > > > > > > > > Ã, > > > > Today,while sailing on my Cal 2-24 two of the screw heads on my > > mainsail luff > > > > track broke just above my boom, so that the lower track is now > > > > pulled > > away from > > > > > > > > the mast. Can anybody tell me what I need to do to fix these > > > > broken > > screws? For > > > > > > > > example, should just take the mast off, and take it to a machine > > > > shop > > to have > > > > folks better equipped drill them out? Thank you very much. Ken > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links

Allen I agree about the centering of the bit , also, as long as the bit doesn't contact the mast part nor its threads, the other consequence is as you suggest , the screw somewhat disintegrates and the remaining threads peel out, Must remember to add hot water to soften the buildup of corrosion, maybe add a dose of vinegar also, and a corrosion-buster product. The tapping for a new insert, with new threads in the insert to accommodate the original size screw is what could be done if this fails, and it would be stronger than the old one as you say. What my thought here is, he would like to keep the original screw size, and not have to remove the whole track. The bit which is a double-ended unit with a drill on one end and reverse out on the other costs about $10 or less and can be used for multiple other jobs later. I used one to remove some old ss screws from a vang bail on my aluminum mast and it worked nicely. His old screws have probably broken off irregularly, maybe they have a dip in them, a punch or small nailset might help center the drill bit point. Grinding off, without removing track would be hard, maybe a dremel size bit. Staying centered is the most important, as the tapping if necessary needs to be in the same location. Then, if all works, when installing the new screws, use lanacote or some other anticorrosive between the metals. Helen From: Allen Edwards <al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Fri, October 15, 2010 8:04:12 AM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Re: Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken What Helen is saying is correct but in my experience it never is that easy. If the screws are bronze, you are in luck so go with what Helen is saying. If the screws are stainless steel, it is unlikely that it will work. Aluminum and stainless form some kind of corrosion bond that is very difficult to break. Note that drilling stainless needs Cobalt drill bits. And not Kobalt as in the Lowels store brand. I have never had an easy out work for me. What I do is drill out the screw and re-tap. If you are really lucky, you can drill out the center of the screw and pull the threads out like removing a spring. I would give that a 10% chance of working. You should also be award of heli-coils. What you do with these is drill out the hole larger, tap it with a special tap, and insert the heli-coil which now has a thread size for your desired screw size. The result is actually stronger than if you did not use them. If is very difficult to drill stainless steel though. I would grind the surface first to make it flat and get a center punch in there somehow (not sure how) to give the drill bit a place to rest so it doesn't wonder over to the outside of the screw. If you drill off center and hit the aluminum, the drill bit will prefer the aluminum and wonder over way off center. The best thing is to hope the screws are bronze. :-) Allen On Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 5:38 PM, Ken <kc… [at] glensfallshosp.org> wrote: >Thank you very much Helen. You're terrific, and very clear in your articulation. >Just what I needed. I'll determine the screw size, and order the bits from your >OSH. Ken > >--- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, Helen Horn <helenhorn@...> wrote: >> >> If you can remove the screws, assuming the heads snapped off because of >> stress wear back and forth, by getting them to unscrew, then you only had bad >> screws, unless they worked on the threads too.Then you can see if the threaded > >> mast holes are good (flashlight, magnifying glass if needed). I got my little >> easyout bits which are double-ended with a drill on one and the reverse bit on > >> the other from OSH which is under Sears' command in California now. They come >>in >> >> sizes to handle little screws like 4, 6, 8,(those are wood screw sizes) (but >> compare to machine screws like 10/32 for example) one to a package, and they >> sort of remind you of one of those pins with which you put a watchband back on. >> >> You want it smaller than the shaft of the screw so it doesn't damage the >> material or threads you are extracting it from. It also should let you do this > >> right through the mast track since it is smaller than the track hole. Tapping >> makes new threads into material, usually larger diameter than the old one.. so > >> new screws would be bigger, not what you want as you say. Helen >> >> >> >> >> >> ________________________________ >> From: Ken <kclark@...> >> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com >> Sent: Mon, October 11, 2010 6:14:48 PM >> Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken >> >> >> Thank you very much. I don't believe the inside of my track can take a larger >> screw head, so I am probably going to have to replace the screws with the same > >> size screw. If I remove the old screws part way up the mast, so that I can get > >> behind the track to work on the mast where the broken screws are, can the same > >> size screws be used to reattach the track, or is there lost integrity once they >> >> are disturbed? Also, what does "tapping" the screws mean? Clearly, I have never >> >> done this sort of thing to my boat before. Thank you again. >> >> --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, Randy Alcorn <saylorran@> wrote: >> > >> > Hi Ken, >> > >> > I have had it happen three times on my mast. The first time I took the >>track >> >> >to >> > >> > a machine shop and had the track remade with a larger screw size. I >>drilled >> >> >out >> > >> > the old screws and re-tapped them to the larger size. The second time I was >> >able >> > >> > to straighten the track and remove the screws with an easy out. However the >> >> > third time I bought a goose neck mount from http://www.lefiell.com/. I am >>going >> >> > >> > to drop my mast and do other work and grind off the track and use the goose >> >neck >> > >> > mount. >> > >> > Currently my CAL 2-29 is leading both the Ventura county High Points and the > >> > Santa Barbra Channel series which tracks races between clubs from Santa >>Barbra, >> >> > >> > Ventura and Channel Island California. In order to finish the season I used >> > three stainless steel hose clamps to secure the sliding goose neck in place >>and >> >> > >> > hold the track to the mast. I used black electrical tape between the >>stainless >> >> >> > steel and the mast to prevent galvanic corrosion. So far so good. Our race >> > season ends in December and starts in middle of Jan. >> > >> > Randy >> > >> > CAL 2-29 >> > Out Patient >> > Channel Islands Ca >> > >> > >> >  >> > >> > >> > >> > ________________________________ >> > From: Ken <kclark@> >> > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com >> > Sent: Sun, October 10, 2010 4:13:35 PM >> > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken >> > >> >  >> > Today,while sailing on my Cal 2-24 two of the screw heads on my mainsail luff >> >> > track broke just above my boom, so that the lower track is now pulled away >>from >> >> > >> > the mast. Can anybody tell me what I need to do to fix these broken screws? >>For >> >> > >> > example, should just take the mast off, and take it to a machine shop to have >> >> > folks better equipped drill them out? Thank you very much. Ken >> > >> > >

Several additions to this good advice: 1. If you can find a LEFT HAND drill slightly smaller than the inside or root diameter of the thread these work very well to remove screws. (Amazon sells small sets of LH drill bits) You start drilling and the LH drill bit rotation is trying to unscrew the screw for you. At the same time as you drill into the screw you relieve the pressure of the screw in the hole which is very tight due to the corrosion. Many times the screw simply screws out when you are about one diameter into the screw... 2. When installing the SS screws always ALWAYS ALWAYS put on never seize or other chemical to keep down the corrosion. Locktite helps limit corosion as well. 3. If you are screwing SS metal down or have screw heads in contact try using black plastic tape or other insulating material between the head and or SS metal and any aluminum. This will reduce the electrical contact and reduce the corrosion around the head or around the SS metal part. --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, Allen Edwards <allen.edwards@...> wrote: > > What Helen is saying is correct but in my experience it never is that easy. > If the screws are bronze, you are in luck so go with what Helen is saying. > If the screws are stainless steel, it is unlikely that it will work. > Aluminum and stainless form some kind of corrosion bond that is very > difficult to break. Note that drilling stainless needs Cobalt drill bits. > And not Kobalt as in the Lowels store brand. I have never had an easy out > work for me. What I do is drill out the screw and re-tap. If you are > really lucky, you can drill out the center of the screw and pull the threads > out like removing a spring. I would give that a 10% chance of working. You > should also be award of heli-coils. What you do with these is drill out the > hole larger, tap it with a special tap, and insert the heli-coil which now > has a thread size for your desired screw size. The result is actually > stronger than if you did not use them. If is very difficult to drill > stainless steel though. I would grind the surface first to make it flat and > get a center punch in there somehow (not sure how) to give the drill bit a > place to rest so it doesn't wonder over to the outside of the screw. If you > drill off center and hit the aluminum, the drill bit will prefer the > aluminum and wonder over way off center. The best thing is to hope the > screws are bronze. :-) > > Allen > > > On Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 5:38 PM, Ken <kclark@...> wrote: > > > > > > > Thank you very much Helen. You're terrific, and very clear in your > > articulation. Just what I needed. I'll determine the screw size, and order > > the bits from your OSH. Ken > > > > --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com>, Helen Horn > > <helenhorn@> wrote: > > > > > > If you can remove the screws, assuming the heads snapped off because of > > > stress wear back and forth, by getting them to unscrew, then you only had > > bad > > > screws, unless they worked on the threads too.Then you can see if the > > threaded > > > mast holes are good (flashlight, magnifying glass if needed). I got my > > little > > > easyout bits which are double-ended with a drill on one and the reverse > > bit on > > > the other from OSH which is under Sears' command in California now. They > > come in > > > sizes to handle little screws like 4, 6, 8,(those are wood screw sizes) > > (but > > > compare to machine screws like 10/32 for example) one to a package, and > > they > > > sort of remind you of one of those pins with which you put a watchband > > back on. > > > You want it smaller than the shaft of the screw so it doesn't damage the > > > material or threads you are extracting it from. It also should let you do > > this > > > right through the mast track since it is smaller than the track hole. > > Tapping > > > makes new threads into material, usually larger diameter than the old > > one.. so > > > new screws would be bigger, not what you want as you say. Helen > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ > > > From: Ken <kclark@> > > > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> > > > Sent: Mon, October 11, 2010 6:14:48 PM > > > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken > > > > > > > > > Thank you very much. I don't believe the inside of my track can take a > > larger > > > screw head, so I am probably going to have to replace the screws with the > > same > > > size screw. If I remove the old screws part way up the mast, so that I > > can get > > > behind the track to work on the mast where the broken screws are, can the > > same > > > size screws be used to reattach the track, or is there lost integrity > > once they > > > are disturbed? Also, what does "tapping" the screws mean? Clearly, I have > > never > > > done this sort of thing to my boat before. Thank you again. > > > > > > --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com>, Randy > > Alcorn <saylorran@> wrote: > > > > > > > > Hi Ken, > > > > > > > > I have had it happen three times on my mast. The first time I took > > the track > > > >to > > > > > > > > a machine shop and had the track remade with a larger screw size. I > > drilled > > > >out > > > > > > > > the old screws and re-tapped them to the larger size. The second time I > > was > > > >able > > > > > > > > to straighten the track and remove the screws with an easy out. > > However the > > > > third time I bought a goose neck mount from http://www.lefiell.com/. I > > am going > > > > > > > > to drop my mast and do other work and grind off the track and use the > > goose > > > >neck > > > > > > > > mount. > > > > > > > > Currently my CAL 2-29 is leading both the Ventura county High Points > > and the > > > > Santa Barbra Channel series which tracks races between clubs from Santa > > Barbra, > > > > > > > > Ventura and Channel Island California. In order to finish the season I > > used > > > > three stainless steel hose clamps to secure the sliding goose neck in > > place and > > > > > > > > hold the track to the mast. I used black electrical tape between the > > stainless > > > > > > > steel and the mast to prevent galvanic corrosion. So far so good. Our > > race > > > > season ends in December and starts in middle of Jan. > > > > > > > > Randy > > > > > > > > CAL 2-29 > > > > Out Patient > > > > Channel Islands Ca > > > > > > > > > > > >  > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ > > > > From: Ken <kclark@> > > > > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> > > > > Sent: Sun, October 10, 2010 4:13:35 PM > > > > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken > > > > > > > >  > > > > Today,while sailing on my Cal 2-24 two of the screw heads on my > > mainsail luff > > > > track broke just above my boom, so that the lower track is now pulled > > away from > > > > > > > > the mast. Can anybody tell me what I need to do to fix these broken > > screws? For > > > > > > > > example, should just take the mast off, and take it to a machine shop > > to have > > > > folks better equipped drill them out? Thank you very much. Ken > > > > > > > > > > > > > >

how about grind off broken screw and drill a new hole. Easyouts that small usually break off since the corrosion between the stainless and aluminum is greater in strength than the Easyout. If it does break off then try to get the Easyout, out of the hole and better yet try and grind case hardend steel next to aluminum. Even if you can get it into a drill press, IT SPELLS MESS. In any case just be carefull. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: Gregory Branch To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, October 15, 2010 5:02 PM Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken Several additions to this good advice: 1. If you can find a LEFT HAND drill slightly smaller than the inside or root diameter of the thread these work very well to remove screws. (Amazon sells small sets of LH drill bits) You start drilling and the LH drill bit rotation is trying to unscrew the screw for you. At the same time as you drill into the screw you relieve the pressure of the screw in the hole which is very tight due to the corrosion. Many times the screw simply screws out when you are about one diameter into the screw... 2. When installing the SS screws always ALWAYS ALWAYS put on never seize or other chemical to keep down the corrosion. Locktite helps limit corosion as well. 3. If you are screwing SS metal down or have screw heads in contact try using black plastic tape or other insulating material between the head and or SS metal and any aluminum. This will reduce the electrical contact and reduce the corrosion around the head or around the SS metal part. --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, Allen Edwards <allen.edwards@...> wrote: > > What Helen is saying is correct but in my experience it never is that easy. > If the screws are bronze, you are in luck so go with what Helen is saying. > If the screws are stainless steel, it is unlikely that it will work. > Aluminum and stainless form some kind of corrosion bond that is very > difficult to break. Note that drilling stainless needs Cobalt drill bits. > And not Kobalt as in the Lowels store brand. I have never had an easy out > work for me. What I do is drill out the screw and re-tap. If you are > really lucky, you can drill out the center of the screw and pull the threads > out like removing a spring. I would give that a 10% chance of working. You > should also be award of heli-coils. What you do with these is drill out the > hole larger, tap it with a special tap, and insert the heli-coil which now > has a thread size for your desired screw size. The result is actually > stronger than if you did not use them. If is very difficult to drill > stainless steel though. I would grind the surface first to make it flat and > get a center punch in there somehow (not sure how) to give the drill bit a > place to rest so it doesn't wonder over to the outside of the screw. If you > drill off center and hit the aluminum, the drill bit will prefer the > aluminum and wonder over way off center. The best thing is to hope the > screws are bronze. :-) > > Allen > > > On Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 5:38 PM, Ken <kclark@...> wrote: > > > > > > > Thank you very much Helen. You're terrific, and very clear in your > > articulation. Just what I needed. I'll determine the screw size, and order > > the bits from your OSH. Ken > > > > --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com>, Helen Horn > > <helenhorn@> wrote: > > > > > > If you can remove the screws, assuming the heads snapped off because of > > > stress wear back and forth, by getting them to unscrew, then you only had > > bad > > > screws, unless they worked on the threads too.Then you can see if the > > threaded > > > mast holes are good (flashlight, magnifying glass if needed). I got my > > little > > > easyout bits which are double-ended with a drill on one and the reverse > > bit on > > > the other from OSH which is under Sears' command in California now. They > > come in > > > sizes to handle little screws like 4, 6, 8,(those are wood screw sizes) > > (but > > > compare to machine screws like 10/32 for example) one to a package, and > > they > > > sort of remind you of one of those pins with which you put a watchband > > back on. > > > You want it smaller than the shaft of the screw so it doesn't damage the > > > material or threads you are extracting it from. It also should let you do > > this > > > right through the mast track since it is smaller than the track hole. > > Tapping > > > makes new threads into material, usually larger diameter than the old > > one.. so > > > new screws would be bigger, not what you want as you say. Helen > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ > > > From: Ken <kclark@> > > > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> > > > Sent: Mon, October 11, 2010 6:14:48 PM > > > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken > > > > > > > > > Thank you very much. I don't believe the inside of my track can take a > > larger > > > screw head, so I am probably going to have to replace the screws with the > > same > > > size screw. If I remove the old screws part way up the mast, so that I > > can get > > > behind the track to work on the mast where the broken screws are, can the > > same > > > size screws be used to reattach the track, or is there lost integrity > > once they > > > are disturbed? Also, what does "tapping" the screws mean? Clearly, I have > > never > > > done this sort of thing to my boat before. Thank you again. > > > > > > --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com>, Randy > > Alcorn <saylorran@> wrote: > > > > > > > > Hi Ken, > > > > > > > > I have had it happen three timesÃ, on my mast. The first time I took > > the track > > > >to > > > > > > > > a machine shop and hadÃ, the trackÃ, remade with a larger screw size. I > > drilled > > > >out > > > > > > > > the old screws and re-tapped them to the larger size. The second time I > > was > > > >able > > > > > > > > to straighten the track andÃ, remove the screws with an easy out. > > However the > > > > third time I bought a goose neck mount from http://www.lefiell.com/. I > > am going > > > > > > > > to drop my mast and do other work and grind off the track and use the > > goose > > > >neck > > > > > > > > mount. > > > > > > > > Currently my CAL 2-29 is leading both the Ventura county High Points > > and the > > > > Santa Barbra Channel series which tracks races between clubs from Santa > > Barbra, > > > > > > > > Ventura and Channel Island California. In order to finish the season I > > used > > > > three stainless steel hose clamps to secure the sliding goose neck in > > place and > > > > > > > > hold the track to the mast. I used black electrical tape between the > > stainless > > > > > > > steel and the mast to prevent galvanic corrosion. So far so good. Our > > race > > > > season ends in December and starts in middle of Jan. > > > > > > > > Randy > > > > > > > > CAL 2-29 > > > > Out Patient > > > > Channel Islands Ca > > > > > > > > > > > > Ã, > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ > > > > From: Ken <kclark@> > > > > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> > > > > Sent: Sun, October 10, 2010 4:13:35 PM > > > > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Mainsail Luff Track Screw Heads Broken > > > > > > > > Ã, > > > > Today,while sailing on my Cal 2-24 two of the screw heads on my > > mainsail luff > > > > track broke just above my boom, so that the lower track is now pulled > > away from > > > > > > > > the mast. Can anybody tell me what I need to do to fix these broken > > screws? For > > > > > > > > example, should just take the mast off, and take it to a machine shop > > to have > > > > folks better equipped drill them out? Thank you very much. Ken > > > > > > > > > > > > > > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5535 (20101015) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5535 (20101015) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com