Cal 29 Reefing

Guys, I know we've discussed this before, but I need help with my main reefing setup. When I go to the mast to attach the reef cringle I have to remove the sail stop in the track in order to allow 2 sail slugs to drop out and be able to attach the cringle, then put the sail stop back in to keep the other slugs from falling out. I have installed a Tides Marine sail track on the mast which converted my external track to an internal one that lets the sail come down easily. Regards, David Dobbs Cal 29 411

Elegant: A dog-bone from your sailmaker with a stainless ring to catch the horn. Moderate: Use a line with a reefing hook to pull the cringle down to the lowest height that still allows the stacked up foot to clear the stop. You will need a termination point for the line; a block with a cleat or ? Cheap: Tie a loop through the reef cringle the right length to catch the reefing horn on the boom with the sail stacked above your stop. Use sail twine to whip the center portion, leaving a nice eye in the end so it looks pretty. Wilkie On Nov 1, 2010, at 3:05 PM, david dobbs wrote: > > Guys, > I know we've discussed this before, but I need help with my main > reefing setup. When I go to the mast to attach the reef cringle I > have to remove the sail stop in the track in order to allow 2 sail > slugs to drop out and be able to attach the cringle, then put the > sail stop back in to keep the other slugs from falling out. I have > installed a Tides Marine sail track on the mast which converted my > external track to an internal one that lets the sail come down easily. > Regards, > David Dobbs Cal 29 411 > > > >

Take out one of the slugs and leave it out. If this leaves the sail unsupported, you might add a slug back between the existing ones but where it will clear when reefed. In other words, the slugs on the main should be in a position that allows you to reef. That said, I had two mains made and both times I was assured that they would allow for the reefing and they didn't do that either time. But I had extended my track so it was not a problem. Wood has its advantages. Allen On Mon, Nov 1, 2010 at 3:05 PM, david dobbs <tm… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > > > Guys, > I know we've discussed this before, but I need help with my main reefing > setup. When I go to the mast to attach the reef cringle I have to remove > the sail stop in the track in order to allow 2 sail slugs to drop out and be > able to attach the cringle, then put the sail stop back in to keep the other > slugs from falling out. I have installed a Tides Marine sail track on the > mast which converted my external track to an internal one that lets the sail > come down easily. > Regards, > David Dobbs Cal 29 411 > > > >

Dear David, I sailed a Pilot 35 with a Proctor spar that had a track such as yours. There were 2 options, a gate and a lace line. The lace line held the slugs so it could be unlaced. There were 2 small grommets at each slug location and the lace line was attached to the sail. I remember the lower 5 slugs were attached this way. When I reefed I unlaced how many I needed depending on how deep I reefed. Alternately the gate which was about 2-2.5' above the gooseneck could be opened to release the slugs. This gate was needed to remove the slugs when changing sails. There was a 2nd track with a gate for the trysail which was loosefooted and set without the boom. My Best, Mike From: Allen Edwards <al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Mon, November 1, 2010 4:34:53 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing Take out one of the slugs and leave it out. If this leaves the sail unsupported, you might add a slug back between the existing ones but where it will clear when reefed. In other words, the slugs on the main should be in a position that allows you to reef. That said, I had two mains made and both times I was assured that they would allow for the reefing and they didn't do that either time. But I had extended my track so it was not a problem. Wood has its advantages. Allen On Mon, Nov 1, 2010 at 3:05 PM, david dobbs <tm… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: >Guys, >I know we've discussed this before, but I need help with my main reefing setup. >When I go to the mast to attach the reef cringle I have to remove the sail stop >in the track in order to allow 2 sail slugs to drop out and be able to attach >the cringle, then put the sail stop back in to keep the other slugs from falling >out. I have installed a Tides Marine sail track on the mast which converted my >external track to an internal one that lets the sail come down easily. >Regards, >David Dobbs Cal 29 411 > >

Mike, I like the gate idea, but have only seen one, which Selden makes. I hate to buy one and find out it won't fit. Maybe I'll try to build one from wood and epoxy coat it, and see how it works. Next year, the mast is on the rack and a little hard to get at! Regards, Dave --- On Mon, 11/1/10, mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: From: mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, November 1, 2010, 7:04 PM Dear David, I sailed a Pilot 35 with a Proctor spar that had a track such as yours. There were 2 options, a gate and a lace line. The lace line held the slugs so it could be unlaced. There were 2 small grommets at each slug location and the lace line was attached to the sail. I remember the lower 5 slugs were attached this way. When I reefed I unlaced how many I needed depending on how deep I reefed. Alternately the gate which was about 2-2.5' above the gooseneck could be opened to release the slugs. This gate was needed to remove the slugs when changing sails. There was a 2nd track with a gate for the trysail which was loosefooted and set without the boom. My Best, Mike From: Allen Edwards <al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Mon, November 1, 2010 4:34:53 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing Take out one of the slugs and leave it out. If this leaves the sail unsupported, you might add a slug back between the existing ones but where it will clear when reefed. In other words, the slugs on the main should be in a position that allows you to reef. That said, I had two mains made and both times I was assured that they would allow for the reefing and they didn't do that either time. But I had extended my track so it was not a problem. Wood has its advantages. Allen On Mon, Nov 1, 2010 at 3:05 PM, david dobbs <tm… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: Guys, I know we've discussed this before, but I need help with my main reefing setup. When I go to the mast to attach the reef cringle I have to remove the sail stop in the track in order to allow 2 sail slugs to drop out and be able to attach the cringle, then put the sail stop back in to keep the other slugs from falling out. I have installed a Tides Marine sail track on the mast which converted my external track to an internal one that lets the sail come down easily. Regards, David Dobbs Cal 29 411

Wilkie, I had dog bones put in for the reef cringles, I suppose I could just attach a line to the dog bone and tighten it up to the reef hook. Won't be very seaman-like, but in sailing usually simpler is better, and not worry about the stacked up sail. Regards, David D. --- On Mon, 11/1/10, DavidOwen <wi… [at] mariposasailing.com> wrote: From: DavidOwen <wi… [at] mariposasailing.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, November 1, 2010, 5:50 PM Elegant: A dog-bone from your sailmaker with a stainless ring to catch the horn. Moderate: Use a line with a reefing hook to pull the cringle down to the lowest height that still allows the stacked up foot to clear the stop. You will need a termination point for the line; a block with a cleat or ? Cheap: Tie a loop through the reef cringle the right length to catch the reefing horn on the boom with the sail stacked above your stop. Use sail twine to whip the center portion, leaving a nice eye in the end so it looks pretty. Wilkie On Nov 1, 2010, at 3:05 PM, david dobbs wrote: Guys, I know we've discussed this before, but I need help with my main reefing setup. When I go to the mast to attach the reef cringle I have to remove the sail stop in the track in order to allow 2 sail slugs to drop out and be able to attach the cringle, then put the sail stop back in to keep the other slugs from falling out. I have installed a Tides Marine sail track on the mast which converted my external track to an internal one that lets the sail come down easily. Regards, David Dobbs Cal 29 411

No idea what dog bones are, well as they relate to sails anyways so google gives me this rather interesting discussion which may be helpful ..... enjoy.... http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/archive/index.php/t-2393.html /ch On Mon, Nov 1, 2010 at 8:57 PM, david dobbs <tm… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > > > Wilkie, > I had dog bones put in for the reef cringles, I suppose I could just attach > a line to the dog bone and tighten it up to the reef hook. Won't be very > seaman-like, but in sailing usually simpler is better, and not worry about > the stacked up sail. > Regards, > David D. > > > --- On *Mon, 11/1/10, DavidOwen <wi… [at] mariposasailing.com>* wrote: > > > From: DavidOwen <wi… [at] mariposasailing.com> > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > Date: Monday, November 1, 2010, 5:50 PM > > > > > Elegant: A dog-bone from your sailmaker with a stainless ring to catch the > horn. > Moderate: Use a line with a reefing hook to pull the cringle down to the > lowest height that still allows the stacked up foot to clear the stop. You > will need a termination point for the line; a block with a cleat or ? > Cheap: Tie a loop through the reef cringle the right length to catch the > reefing horn on the boom with the sail stacked above your stop. Use sail > twine to whip the center portion, leaving a nice eye in the end so it looks > pretty. > > Wilkie > > > > > On Nov 1, 2010, at 3:05 PM, david dobbs wrote: > > > Guys, > I know we've discussed this before, but I need help with my main reefing > setup. When I go to the mast to attach the reef cringle I have to remove > the sail stop in the track in order to allow 2 sail slugs to drop out and be > able to attach the cringle, then put the sail stop back in to keep the other > slugs from falling out. I have installed a Tides Marine sail track on the > mast which converted my external track to an internal one that lets the sail > come down easily. > Regards, > David Dobbs Cal 29 411 > > > > > > > -- /ch

And a little more detail on how this relates to the main sail setup and config http://www.offshoresailsrts.net/en/about_mainsails_extras.html Regards /ch

I believe my Mainsail has about 3" from feet to the first track slide. This has never posed a problem with my ability to achieve proper sail trim before or after reefing. In any event, there will be some tension on the slides when you bring the reef point at or below the slides. Simply mark your halyard so when you reef you can drop the sail to the optimum position before you pull in the tack line and then outhaul. Mark Cal 2-29 San Pedro ----- Original Message ----- From: david dobbs To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, November 01, 2010 5:42 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing(Mike F) Mike, I like the gate idea, but have only seen one, which Selden makes. I hate to buy one and find out it won't fit. Maybe I'll try to build one from wood and epoxy coat it, and see how it works. Next year, the mast is on the rack and a little hard to get at! Regards, Dave --- On Mon, 11/1/10, mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: From: mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, November 1, 2010, 7:04 PM Dear David, I sailed a Pilot 35 with a Proctor spar that had a track such as yours. There were 2 options, a gate and a lace line. The lace line held the slugs so it could be unlaced. There were 2 small grommets at each slug location and the lace line was attached to the sail. I remember the lower 5 slugs were attached this way. When I reefed I unlaced how many I needed depending on how deep I reefed. Alternately the gate which was about 2-2.5' above the gooseneck could be opened to release the slugs. This gate was needed to remove the slugs when changing sails. There was a 2nd track with a gate for the trysail which was loosefooted and set without the boom. My Best, Mike ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Allen Edwards <al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Mon, November 1, 2010 4:34:53 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing Take out one of the slugs and leave it out. If this leaves the sail unsupported, you might add a slug back between the existing ones but where it will clear when reefed. In other words, the slugs on the main should be in a position that allows you to reef. That said, I had two mains made and both times I was assured that they would allow for the reefing and they didn't do that either time. But I had extended my track so it was not a problem. Wood has its advantages. Allen On Mon, Nov 1, 2010 at 3:05 PM, david dobbs <tm… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: Guys, I know we've discussed this before, but I need help with my main reefing setup. When I go to the mast to attach the reef cringle I have to remove the sail stop in the track in order to allow 2 sail slugs to drop out and be able to attach the cringle, then put the sail stop back in to keep the other slugs from falling out. I have installed a Tides Marine sail track on the mast which converted my external track to an internal one that lets the sail come down easily. Regards, David Dobbs Cal 29 411 __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5583 (20101101) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5585 (20101102) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com

I botch that email meant to say about three feet from foot to the first slide. ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Alan Stahnke (MAS Consulting) To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2010 8:08 AM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing(Mike F)  I believe my Mainsail has about 3" from feet to the first track slide. This has never posed a problem with my ability to achieve proper sail trim before or after reefing. In any event, there will be some tension on the slides when you bring the reef point at or below the slides. Simply mark your halyard so when you reef you can drop the sail to the optimum position before you pull in the tack line and then outhaul. Mark Cal 2-29 San Pedro ----- Original Message ----- From: david dobbs To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, November 01, 2010 5:42 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing(Mike F) Mike, I like the gate idea, but have only seen one, which Selden makes. I hate to buy one and find out it won't fit. Maybe I'll try to build one from wood and epoxy coat it, and see how it works. Next year, the mast is on the rack and a little hard to get at! Regards, Dave --- On Mon, 11/1/10, mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: From: mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, November 1, 2010, 7:04 PM Dear David, I sailed a Pilot 35 with a Proctor spar that had a track such as yours. There were 2 options, a gate and a lace line. The lace line held the slugs so it could be unlaced. There were 2 small grommets at each slug location and the lace line was attached to the sail. I remember the lower 5 slugs were attached this way. When I reefed I unlaced how many I needed depending on how deep I reefed. Alternately the gate which was about 2-2.5' above the gooseneck could be opened to release the slugs. This gate was needed to remove the slugs when changing sails. There was a 2nd track with a gate for the trysail which was loosefooted and set without the boom. My Best, Mike -------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Allen Edwards <al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Mon, November 1, 2010 4:34:53 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing Take out one of the slugs and leave it out. If this leaves the sail unsupported, you might add a slug back between the existing ones but where it will clear when reefed. In other words, the slugs on the main should be in a position that allows you to reef. That said, I had two mains made and both times I was assured that they would allow for the reefing and they didn't do that either time. But I had extended my track so it was not a problem. Wood has its advantages. Allen On Mon, Nov 1, 2010 at 3:05 PM, david dobbs <tm… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: Guys, I know we've discussed this before, but I need help with my main reefing setup. When I go to the mast to attach the reef cringle I have to remove the sail stop in the track in order to allow 2 sail slugs to drop out and be able to attach the cringle, then put the sail stop back in to keep the other slugs from falling out. I have installed a Tides Marine sail track on the mast which converted my external track to an internal one that lets the sail come down easily. Regards, David Dobbs Cal 29 411 __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5583 (20101101) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5585 (20101102) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5585 (20101102) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5585 (20101102) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com

Folks, I think it is actually the height of the reefing cringle above the first slide that matters. When reefing, the sail has a folding point where the slide hits the track stop. If the distance from the first slide to the cringle is not at least equal to the distance from the bottom of the slide to hook on the boom, the sail will not down far enough. This was/is a problem on the CAL 25 as well. The same applies for successive reefs going up the sail, but the slide to cringle distance increases as the slides bunch up at the bottom of the track. One old solution is to use a jackline that has the slides attached and eyes in the sail that the line goes through. When line is pulled tight, the sail sort of pulls forward to the slides. When released, there is extra line to let the sail pull down. I can fake a picture if needed. Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mark Alan Stahnke (MAS Consulting) Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2010 11:15 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing(Mike F)  I botch that email meant to say about three feet from foot to the first slide. From: Mark Alan Stahnke (MAS Consulting)<mailto:ma… [at] cox.net> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2010 8:08 AM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing(Mike F)  I believe my Mainsail has about 3" from feet to the first track slide. This has never posed a problem with my ability to achieve proper sail trim before or after reefing. In any event, there will be some tension on the slides when you bring the reef point at or below the slides. Simply mark your halyard so when you reef you can drop the sail to the optimum position before you pull in the tack line and then outhaul. Mark Cal 2-29 San Pedro From: david dobbs<mailto:tm… [at] yahoo.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, November 01, 2010 5:42 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing(Mike F) Mike, I like the gate idea, but have only seen one, which Selden makes. I hate to buy one and find out it won't fit. Maybe I'll try to build one from wood and epoxy coat it, and see how it works. Next year, the mast is on the rack and a little hard to get at! Regards, Dave --- On Mon, 11/1/10, mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com<mailto:ve… [at] yahoo.com>> wrote: From: mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, November 1, 2010, 7:04 PM Dear David, I sailed a Pilot 35 with a Proctor spar that had a track such as yours. There were 2 options, a gate and a lace line. The lace line held the slugs so it could be unlaced. There were 2 small grommets at each slug location and the lace line was attached to the sail. I remember the lower 5 slugs were attached this way. When I reefed I unlaced how many I needed depending on how deep I reefed. Alternately the gate which was about 2-2.5' above the gooseneck could be opened to release the slugs. This gate was needed to remove the slugs when changing sails. There was a 2nd track with a gate for the trysail which was loosefooted and set without the boom. My Best, Mike From: Allen Edwards <al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Mon, November 1, 2010 4:34:53 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing Take out one of the slugs and leave it out. If this leaves the sail unsupported, you might add a slug back between the existing ones but where it will clear when reefed. In other words, the slugs on the main should be in a position that allows you to reef. That said, I had two mains made and both times I was assured that they would allow for the reefing and they didn't do that either time. But I had extended my track so it was not a problem. Wood has its advantages. Allen On Mon, Nov 1, 2010 at 3:05 PM, david dobbs <tm… [at] yahoo.com<http://us.mc1113.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=tm… [at] yahoo.com>> wrote: Guys, I know we've discussed this before, but I need help with my main reefing setup. When I go to the mast to attach the reef cringle I have to remove the sail stop in the track in order to allow 2 sail slugs to drop out and be able to attach the cringle, then put the sail stop back in to keep the other slugs from falling out. I have installed a Tides Marine sail track on the mast which converted my external track to an internal one that lets the sail come down easily. Regards, David Dobbs Cal 29 411 __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5583 (20101101) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5585 (20101102) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5585 (20101102) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5585 (20101102) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com

I just want to clarify my earlier post. I agree with what is said here and the point I was making is that if the slides are located as Charlie points out, it will just work. The solution for 10 years for Papoose was to cut off one slide that was placed right on the cringle. One of the 4 mistakes North made on that sail. If the sailmaker can move the slides, or if you can do without one that is just in the wrong place, it should work. My first sail came with a line you could untie and some fancy slides with roller bearings on the slide that ran on the line. The line was attached (through metal loops) to the sail every slide point but both above and below the slide so that when the line was pulled tight, the slide was well supported. It was a pain. It would be much easier to relocate the properly space the slides and just live with whatever spacing you end up with. I would say this is a concept that is difficult for sailmakers to get right so it is not surprising that people have troubles with it. Both my mains were made wrong for the way the boat was measured. The first sail I just didn't use one of the slides, the second sail I added an extension the the track so that the distance Charlie is talking about was cut to basically zero. Allen On Tue, Nov 2, 2010 at 9:41 AM, Husar, Charlie [USA] <hu… [at] bah.com>wrote: > > >  > Folks, I think it is actually the height of the reefing cringle above the > first slide that matters. When reefing, the sail has a folding point where > the slide hits the track stop. If the distance from the first slide to the > cringle is not at least equal to the distance from the bottom of the slide > to hook on the boom, the sail will not down far enough. This was/is a > problem on the CAL 25 as well. > > The same applies for successive reefs going up the sail, but the slide to > cringle distance increases as the slides bunch up at the bottom of the > track. > > One old solution is to use a jackline that has the slides attached and > eyes in the sail that the line goes through. When line is pulled tight, the > sail sort of pulls forward to the slides. When released, there is extra > line to let the sail pull down. I can fake a picture if needed. > > Cheers > Charlie > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] *On > Behalf Of *Mark Alan Stahnke (MAS Consulting) > *Sent:* Tuesday, November 02, 2010 11:15 AM > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing(Mike F) > >  > I botch that email meant to say about three feet from foot to the first > slide. > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* Mark Alan Stahnke (MAS Consulting) <ma… [at] cox.net> > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > *Sent:* Tuesday, November 02, 2010 8:08 AM > *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing(Mike F) > > > >  > I believe my Mainsail has about 3" from feet to the first track slide. This > has never posed a problem with my ability to achieve proper sail trim before > or after reefing. In any event, there will be some tension on the slides > when you bring the reef point at or below the slides. Simply mark your > halyard so when you reef you can drop the sail to the optimum position > before you pull in the tack line and then outhaul. > Mark > Cal 2-29 > San Pedro > > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* david dobbs <tm… [at] yahoo.com> > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > *Sent:* Monday, November 01, 2010 5:42 PM > *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing(Mike F) > > > > Mike, > I like the gate idea, but have only seen one, which Selden makes. I hate > to buy one and find out it won't fit. Maybe I'll try to build one from wood > and epoxy coat it, and see how it works. Next year, the mast is on the rack > and a little hard to get at! > Regards, > Dave > > > --- On *Mon, 11/1/10, mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com>* wrote: > > > From: mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > Date: Monday, November 1, 2010, 7:04 PM > > > Dear David, > I sailed a Pilot 35 with a Proctor spar that had a track such > as yours. There were 2 options, a gate and a lace line. The lace line > held the slugs so it could be unlaced. There were 2 small grommets at each > slug location and the lace line was attached to the sail. I remember the > lower 5 slugs were attached this way. When I reefed I unlaced how many I > needed depending on how deep I reefed. Alternately the gate which was about > 2-2.5' above the gooseneck could be opened to release the slugs. This gate > was needed to remove the slugs when changing sails. There was a 2nd track > with a gate for the trysail which was loosefooted and set without the boom. > My Best, Mike > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Allen Edwards <al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com> > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > *Sent:* Mon, November 1, 2010 4:34:53 PM > *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing > > > > Take out one of the slugs and leave it out. If this leaves the sail > unsupported, you might add a slug back between the existing ones but where > it will clear when reefed. In other words, the slugs on the main should be > in a position that allows you to reef. That said, I had two mains made and > both times I was assured that they would allow for the reefing and they > didn't do that either time. But I had extended my track so it was not a > problem. Wood has its advantages. > > Allen > > > On Mon, Nov 1, 2010 at 3:05 PM, david dobbs <tm… [at] yahoo.com<http://us.mc1113.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=tm… [at] yahoo.com> > > wrote: > > > Guys, > I know we've discussed this before, but I need help with my main reefing > setup. When I go to the mast to attach the reef cringle I have to remove > the sail stop in the track in order to allow 2 sail slugs to drop out and be > able to attach the cringle, then put the sail stop back in to keep the other > slugs from falling out. I have installed a Tides Marine sail track on the > mast which converted my external track to an internal one that lets the sail > come down easily. > Regards, > David Dobbs Cal 29 411 > > > > > > > > > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus > signature database 5583 (20101101) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. > > http://www.eset.com > > > > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus > signature database 5585 (20101102) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. > > http://www.eset.com > > > > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus > signature database 5585 (20101102) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. > > http://www.eset.com > > > > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus > signature database 5585 (20101102) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. > > http://www.eset.com > > >

Allen, I likewise put a track extension on one of my CAL 25s. It being an exterior track, it was not a pleasure getting it aligned so that slides would not bind on the joint. Those hard rubber mallets are often useful. Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Allen Edwards Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2010 2:46 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing(Mike F) I just want to clarify my earlier post. I agree with what is said here and the point I was making is that if the slides are located as Charlie points out, it will just work. The solution for 10 years for Papoose was to cut off one slide that was placed right on the cringle. One of the 4 mistakes North made on that sail. If the sailmaker can move the slides, or if you can do without one that is just in the wrong place, it should work. My first sail came with a line you could untie and some fancy slides with roller bearings on the slide that ran on the line. The line was attached (through metal loops) to the sail every slide point but both above and below the slide so that when the line was pulled tight, the slide was well supported. It was a pain. It would be much easier to relocate the properly space the slides and just live with whatever spacing you end up with. I would say this is a concept that is difficult for sailmakers to get right so it is not surprising that people have troubles with it. Both my mains were made wrong for the way the boat was measured. The first sail I just didn't use one of the slides, the second sail I added an extension the the track so that the distance Charlie is talking about was cut to basically zero. Allen On Tue, Nov 2, 2010 at 9:41 AM, Husar, Charlie [USA] <hu… [at] bah.com<mailto:hu… [at] bah.com>> wrote:  Folks, I think it is actually the height of the reefing cringle above the first slide that matters. When reefing, the sail has a folding point where the slide hits the track stop. If the distance from the first slide to the cringle is not at least equal to the distance from the bottom of the slide to hook on the boom, the sail will not down far enough. This was/is a problem on the CAL 25 as well. The same applies for successive reefs going up the sail, but the slide to cringle distance increases as the slides bunch up at the bottom of the track. One old solution is to use a jackline that has the slides attached and eyes in the sail that the line goes through. When line is pulled tight, the sail sort of pulls forward to the slides. When released, there is extra line to let the sail pull down. I can fake a picture if needed. Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Mark Alan Stahnke (MAS Consulting) Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2010 11:15 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing(Mike F)  I botch that email meant to say about three feet from foot to the first slide. From: Mark Alan Stahnke (MAS Consulting)<mailto:ma… [at] cox.net> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2010 8:08 AM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing(Mike F)  I believe my Mainsail has about 3" from feet to the first track slide. This has never posed a problem with my ability to achieve proper sail trim before or after reefing. In any event, there will be some tension on the slides when you bring the reef point at or below the slides. Simply mark your halyard so when you reef you can drop the sail to the optimum position before you pull in the tack line and then outhaul. Mark Cal 2-29 San Pedro From: david dobbs<mailto:tm… [at] yahoo.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, November 01, 2010 5:42 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing(Mike F) Mike, I like the gate idea, but have only seen one, which Selden makes. I hate to buy one and find out it won't fit. Maybe I'll try to build one from wood and epoxy coat it, and see how it works. Next year, the mast is on the rack and a little hard to get at! Regards, Dave --- On Mon, 11/1/10, mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com<mailto:ve… [at] yahoo.com>> wrote: From: mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com<mailto:ve… [at] yahoo.com>> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Date: Monday, November 1, 2010, 7:04 PM Dear David, I sailed a Pilot 35 with a Proctor spar that had a track such as yours. There were 2 options, a gate and a lace line. The lace line held the slugs so it could be unlaced. There were 2 small grommets at each slug location and the lace line was attached to the sail. I remember the lower 5 slugs were attached this way. When I reefed I unlaced how many I needed depending on how deep I reefed. Alternately the gate which was about 2-2.5' above the gooseneck could be opened to release the slugs. This gate was needed to remove the slugs when changing sails. There was a 2nd track with a gate for the trysail which was loosefooted and set without the boom. My Best, Mike From: Allen Edwards <al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Mon, November 1, 2010 4:34:53 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing Take out one of the slugs and leave it out. If this leaves the sail unsupported, you might add a slug back between the existing ones but where it will clear when reefed. In other words, the slugs on the main should be in a position that allows you to reef. That said, I had two mains made and both times I was assured that they would allow for the reefing and they didn't do that either time. But I had extended my track so it was not a problem. Wood has its advantages. Allen On Mon, Nov 1, 2010 at 3:05 PM, david dobbs <tm… [at] yahoo.com<http://us.mc1113.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=tm… [at] yahoo.com>> wrote: Guys, I know we've discussed this before, but I need help with my main reefing setup. When I go to the mast to attach the reef cringle I have to remove the sail stop in the track in order to allow 2 sail slugs to drop out and be able to attach the cringle, then put the sail stop back in to keep the other slugs from falling out. I have installed a Tides Marine sail track on the mast which converted my external track to an internal one that lets the sail come down easily. Regards, David Dobbs Cal 29 411 __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5583 (20101101) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5585 (20101102) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5585 (20101102) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5585 (20101102) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com

Washers under the low one works too. On Tue, Nov 2, 2010 at 1:05 PM, Husar, Charlie [USA] <hu… [at] bah.com>wrote: > > >  > Allen, I likewise put a track extension on one of my CAL 25s. It being an > exterior track, it was not a pleasure getting it aligned so that slides > would not bind on the joint. > > Those hard rubber mallets are often useful. > > Cheers > Charlie > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] *On > Behalf Of *Allen Edwards > *Sent:* Tuesday, November 02, 2010 2:46 PM > > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing(Mike F) > > I just want to clarify my earlier post. I agree with what is said here and > the point I was making is that if the slides are located as Charlie points > out, it will just work. The solution for 10 years for Papoose was to cut > off one slide that was placed right on the cringle. One of the 4 mistakes > North made on that sail. If the sailmaker can move the slides, or if you > can do without one that is just in the wrong place, it should work. > > My first sail came with a line you could untie and some fancy slides with > roller bearings on the slide that ran on the line. The line was attached > (through metal loops) to the sail every slide point but both above and below > the slide so that when the line was pulled tight, the slide was well > supported. It was a pain. It would be much easier to relocate the properly > space the slides and just live with whatever spacing you end up with. > > I would say this is a concept that is difficult for sailmakers to get right > so it is not surprising that people have troubles with it. Both my mains > were made wrong for the way the boat was measured. The first sail I just > didn't use one of the slides, the second sail I added an extension the the > track so that the distance Charlie is talking about was cut to basically > zero. > > Allen > > > On Tue, Nov 2, 2010 at 9:41 AM, Husar, Charlie [USA] < > hu… [at] bah.com> wrote: > >> >> >>  >> Folks, I think it is actually the height of the reefing cringle above the >> first slide that matters. When reefing, the sail has a folding point where >> the slide hits the track stop. If the distance from the first slide to the >> cringle is not at least equal to the distance from the bottom of the slide >> to hook on the boom, the sail will not down far enough. This was/is a >> problem on the CAL 25 as well. >> >> The same applies for successive reefs going up the sail, but the slide to >> cringle distance increases as the slides bunch up at the bottom of the >> track. >> >> One old solution is to use a jackline that has the slides attached and >> eyes in the sail that the line goes through. When line is pulled tight, the >> sail sort of pulls forward to the slides. When released, there is extra >> line to let the sail pull down. I can fake a picture if needed. >> >> Cheers >> Charlie >> >> ------------------------------ >> *From:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] *On >> Behalf Of *Mark Alan Stahnke (MAS Consulting) >> *Sent:* Tuesday, November 02, 2010 11:15 AM >> *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com >> *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing(Mike F) >> >>  >> I botch that email meant to say about three feet from foot to the first >> slide. >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> *From:* Mark Alan Stahnke (MAS Consulting) <ma… [at] cox.net> >> *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com >> *Sent:* Tuesday, November 02, 2010 8:08 AM >> *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing(Mike F) >> >> >> >>  >> I believe my Mainsail has about 3" from feet to the first track slide. >> This has never posed a problem with my ability to achieve proper sail trim >> before or after reefing. In any event, there will be some tension on the >> slides when you bring the reef point at or below the slides. Simply mark >> your halyard so when you reef you can drop the sail to the optimum position >> before you pull in the tack line and then outhaul. >> Mark >> Cal 2-29 >> San Pedro >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> *From:* david dobbs <tm… [at] yahoo.com> >> *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com >> *Sent:* Monday, November 01, 2010 5:42 PM >> *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing(Mike F) >> >> >> >> Mike, >> I like the gate idea, but have only seen one, which Selden makes. I hate >> to buy one and find out it won't fit. Maybe I'll try to build one from wood >> and epoxy coat it, and see how it works. Next year, the mast is on the rack >> and a little hard to get at! >> Regards, >> Dave >> >> >> --- On *Mon, 11/1/10, mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com>* wrote: >> >> >> From: mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com> >> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing >> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com >> Date: Monday, November 1, 2010, 7:04 PM >> >> >> Dear David, >> I sailed a Pilot 35 with a Proctor spar that had a track >> such as yours. There were 2 options, a gate and a lace line. The lace >> line held the slugs so it could be unlaced. There were 2 small grommets at >> each slug location and the lace line was attached to the sail. I remember >> the lower 5 slugs were attached this way. When I reefed I unlaced how many >> I needed depending on how deep I reefed. Alternately the gate which was >> about 2-2.5' above the gooseneck could be opened to release the slugs. This >> gate was needed to remove the slugs when changing sails. There was a 2nd >> track with a gate for the trysail which was loosefooted and set without the >> boom. >> My Best, Mike >> >> ------------------------------ >> *From:* Allen Edwards <al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com> >> *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com >> *Sent:* Mon, November 1, 2010 4:34:53 PM >> *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing >> >> >> >> Take out one of the slugs and leave it out. If this leaves the sail >> unsupported, you might add a slug back between the existing ones but where >> it will clear when reefed. In other words, the slugs on the main should be >> in a position that allows you to reef. That said, I had two mains made and >> both times I was assured that they would allow for the reefing and they >> didn't do that either time. But I had extended my track so it was not a >> problem. Wood has its advantages. >> >> Allen >> >> >> On Mon, Nov 1, 2010 at 3:05 PM, david dobbs <tm… [at] yahoo.com<http://us.mc1113.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=tm… [at] yahoo.com> >> > wrote: >> >> >> Guys, >> I know we've discussed this before, but I need help with my main reefing >> setup. When I go to the mast to attach the reef cringle I have to remove >> the sail stop in the track in order to allow 2 sail slugs to drop out and be >> able to attach the cringle, then put the sail stop back in to keep the other >> slugs from falling out. I have installed a Tides Marine sail track on the >> mast which converted my external track to an internal one that lets the sail >> come down easily. >> Regards, >> David Dobbs Cal 29 411 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus >> signature database 5583 (20101101) __________ >> >> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. >> >> http://www.eset.com >> >> >> >> __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus >> signature database 5585 (20101102) __________ >> >> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. >> >> http://www.eset.com >> >> >> >> __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus >> signature database 5585 (20101102) __________ >> >> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. >> >> http://www.eset.com >> >> >> >> __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus >> signature database 5585 (20101102) __________ >> >> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. >> >> http://www.eset.com >> >> > >

Charlie, My 29 came with the external track. Whoever invented that needs to go boat hell. I bought a Tides Marine track, and it works great. When I release the halyard the sail falls; I don't have to pull the sail down like I did before. Regards, David Dobbs --- On Tue, 11/2/10, Husar, Charlie [USA] <hu… [at] bah.com> wrote: From: Husar, Charlie [USA] <hu… [at] bah.com> Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing(Mike F) To: "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Date: Tuesday, November 2, 2010, 3:05 PM  Allen, I likewise put a track extension on one of my CAL 25s. It being an exterior track, it was not a pleasure getting it aligned so that slides would not bind on the joint. Those hard rubber mallets are often useful. Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Allen Edwards Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2010 2:46 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing(Mike F) I just want to clarify my earlier post. I agree with what is said here and the point I was making is that if the slides are located as Charlie points out, it will just work. The solution for 10 years for Papoose was to cut off one slide that was placed right on the cringle. One of the 4 mistakes North made on that sail. If the sailmaker can move the slides, or if you can do without one that is just in the wrong place, it should work. My first sail came with a line you could untie and some fancy slides with roller bearings on the slide that ran on the line. The line was attached (through metal loops) to the sail every slide point but both above and below the slide so that when the line was pulled tight, the slide was well supported. It was a pain. It would be much easier to relocate the properly space the slides and just live with whatever spacing you end up with. I would say this is a concept that is difficult for sailmakers to get right so it is not surprising that people have troubles with it. Both my mains were made wrong for the way the boat was measured. The first sail I just didn't use one of the slides, the second sail I added an extension the the track so that the distance Charlie is talking about was cut to basically zero. Allen On Tue, Nov 2, 2010 at 9:41 AM, Husar, Charlie [USA] <hu… [at] bah.com> wrote:  Folks, I think it is actually the height of the reefing cringle above the first slide that matters. When reefing, the sail has a folding point where the slide hits the track stop. If the distance from the first slide to the cringle is not at least equal to the distance from the bottom of the slide to hook on the boom, the sail will not down far enough. This was/is a problem on the CAL 25 as well. The same applies for successive reefs going up the sail, but the slide to cringle distance increases as the slides bunch up at the bottom of the track. One old solution is to use a jackline that has the slides attached and eyes in the sail that the line goes through. When line is pulled tight, the sail sort of pulls forward to the slides. When released, there is extra line to let the sail pull down. I can fake a picture if needed. Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mark Alan Stahnke (MAS Consulting) Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2010 11:15 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing(Mike F)  I botch that email meant to say about three feet from foot to the first slide. From: Mark Alan Stahnke (MAS Consulting) To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2010 8:08 AM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing(Mike F)  I believe my Mainsail has about 3" from feet to the first track slide. This has never posed a problem with my ability to achieve proper sail trim before or after reefing. In any event, there will be some tension on the slides when you bring the reef point at or below the slides. Simply mark your halyard so when you reef you can drop the sail to the optimum position before you pull in the tack line and then outhaul. Mark Cal 2-29 San Pedro From: david dobbs To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, November 01, 2010 5:42 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing(Mike F) Mike, I like the gate idea, but have only seen one, which Selden makes. I hate to buy one and find out it won't fit. Maybe I'll try to build one from wood and epoxy coat it, and see how it works. Next year, the mast is on the rack and a little hard to get at! Regards, Dave --- On Mon, 11/1/10, mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: From: mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, November 1, 2010, 7:04 PM Dear David, I sailed a Pilot 35 with a Proctor spar that had a track such as yours. There were 2 options, a gate and a lace line. The lace line held the slugs so it could be unlaced. There were 2 small grommets at each slug location and the lace line was attached to the sail. I remember the lower 5 slugs were attached this way. When I reefed I unlaced how many I needed depending on how deep I reefed. Alternately the gate which was about 2-2.5' above the gooseneck could be opened to release the slugs. This gate was needed to remove the slugs when changing sails. There was a 2nd track with a gate for the trysail which was loosefooted and set without the boom. My Best, Mike From: Allen Edwards <al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Mon, November 1, 2010 4:34:53 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29 Reefing Take out one of the slugs and leave it out. If this leaves the sail unsupported, you might add a slug back between the existing ones but where it will clear when reefed. In other words, the slugs on the main should be in a position that allows you to reef. That said, I had two mains made and both times I was assured that they would allow for the reefing and they didn't do that either time. But I had extended my track so it was not a problem. Wood has its advantages. Allen On Mon, Nov 1, 2010 at 3:05 PM, david dobbs <tm… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: Guys, I know we've discussed this before, but I need help with my main reefing setup. When I go to the mast to attach the reef cringle I have to remove the sail stop in the track in order to allow 2 sail slugs to drop out and be able to attach the cringle, then put the sail stop back in to keep the other slugs from falling out. I have installed a Tides Marine sail track on the mast which converted my external track to an internal one that lets the sail come down easily. Regards, David Dobbs Cal 29 411 __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5583 (20101101) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5585 (20101102) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5585 (20101102) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5585 (20101102) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com

On 11/2/2010 9:57 PM, david dobbs wrote: > > > Charlie, > My 29 came with the external track. Whoever invented that needs to go > boat hell. I bought a Tides Marine track, and it works great. When I > release the halyard the sail falls; I don't have to pull the sail down > like I did before. > My other boat has a standard old sail track, unlike the Cal 20 with its groove for either the bolt rope or sail slugs (I added slugs to my "new" used mainsail). The other boat with its sail track is an old CCA-style rig with a relatively low aspect ratio main, as compared with current practice. The sail slides have always run on the track pretty freely, but a bit of paraffin applied to the track works wonders. I also use paraffin in the groove/on the slugs for the Cal 20. It makes a big difference. Paraffin is my friend: cheap, non-sticky, weather-resistant, effective. It's a great lubricant for outdoor sliding surfaces. Chris Campbell > > > > >

Chris C. Better engineering and manufacture are better than a remedial cure for a bad design. Why would anyone design an external track with slides that require close tolerance in order to move up or down when there may be pressure opposing that? I repeat, BAD DESIGN. I don't care if it was Bill Lapworth, it was a bad design for a mast track from anyone. Yes, it caused me some distress, and has been corrected. Regards, David Dobbs, Cal29 411 --- On Wed, 11/3/10, Chris <cc… [at] lsnm.org> wrote: From: Chris <cc… [at] lsnm.org> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Cal 29,Sail Track(Charlie) To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Wednesday, November 3, 2010, 3:04 PM On 11/2/2010 9:57 PM, david dobbs wrote: Charlie, My 29 came with the external track. Whoever invented that needs to go boat hell. I bought a Tides Marine track, and it works great. When I release the halyard the sail falls; I don't have to pull the sail down like I did before. My other boat has a standard old sail track, unlike the Cal 20 with its groove for either the bolt rope or sail slugs (I added slugs to my "new" used mainsail). The other boat with its sail track is an old CCA-style rig with a relatively low aspect ratio main, as compared with current practice. The sail slides have always run on the track pretty freely, but a bit of paraffin applied to the track works wonders. I also use paraffin in the groove/on the slugs for the Cal 20. It makes a big difference. Paraffin is my friend: cheap, non-sticky, weather-resistant, effective. It's a great lubricant for outdoor sliding surfaces. Chris Campbell