cutting an access hatch

Hi I have a cal 30 with no access to the bilge amidships. I plan to cut a hatch and would like to know if anyone has done this. Thanks Dan R

Hello Dan, I have a Cal 30 also. However, mine has access to the bilges by way of the aft quarter berthings. The panels should be removable, since it would not make any sense not to be able to get to them from inside the vessel. If you are wanting to make access panels, you can find the kits at West Marine. You will want to make sure that you have framed the new hatch appropriately so that you don't undermine the integrity of the deck. Are you planning to put this access in the deck of the cockpit? Brian Cal 30 Puget Sound, WA --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, "richmondj50" <dvrich1@...> wrote: > > Hi > I have a cal 30 with no access to the bilge amidships. > I plan to cut a hatch and would like to know if anyone has done this. > Thanks > Dan R >

Hi Brian It's good to know there is another one in the area. I am in Everet. How do you like your boat? Have you done much cruising with it? No, I have access under the births. I want to put one in the galley floor so I can build a water tank in the forward part of the keel where there is just empty space above the ballast. I plan to use a thin fine jigsaw blade to carefully cut a rectangle with rounded corners then use the cut out piece for the cover. Some carful sanding, four countersunk stainless screws and it will look factory made. I know the cal 29's have them but they have the long fin keel so there is not much room under them. I was just wondering if anyone else had done it. I want to long distance cruise so I will need more water. It's a good place to put something heavy like water. Where is your holding tank? I am thinking I will build one under the V berth. It will be empty at sea so the weight in the bow won't be a problem. It's good to hear from you. Thanks for the feedback. Dan R From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Brian Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2010 10:42 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: cutting an access hatch Hello Dan, I have a Cal 30 also. However, mine has access to the bilges by way of the aft quarter berthings. The panels should be removable, since it would not make any sense not to be able to get to them from inside the vessel. If you are wanting to make access panels, you can find the kits at West Marine. You will want to make sure that you have framed the new hatch appropriately so that you don't undermine the integrity of the deck. Are you planning to put this access in the deck of the cockpit? Brian Cal 30 Puget Sound, WA --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, "richmondj50" <dvrich1@...> wrote: > > Hi > I have a cal 30 with no access to the bilge amidships. > I plan to cut a hatch and would like to know if anyone has done this. > Thanks > Dan R > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.869 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3250 - Release Date: 11/10/10 23:34:00

Dan, this is a great application for the Rockwell Sonicrafter or Fein Multimaster with a flat blade. Allows you to cut very straight and skinny lines (using a straight piece of wood as a guide), and to use the removed part as the hatch board. I have some photos I did when doing replacement plywood on cabin seats/bunks with hatches. For the rounded corners, I drill small holes in a pattern (after center punching) around each corner, and then connect the dots with the Sonicrafter or a jig saw. With enough holes, the joint will punch out, and you can sand the corner areas smooth. If arcs are consistent, then you do not need to worry about which direction you insert the hatch board. Very satisfying when it will go in either way. If I understand what you are doing, you will need framing pieces around the hole that protrude about 1/2" to support the hatch when you insert it. You would like the framing to extend beyond the hole as far as possible fore and aft for strength. More than 4 screws would be good (ends, sides, and corners). Again, I have some photos from an application where I could work with the wood outside the boat. Idea is the same, though. Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Daniel Richmond Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2010 5:15 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] Re: cutting an access hatch Hi Brian It's good to know there is another one in the area. I am in Everet. How do you like your boat? Have you done much cruising with it? No, I have access under the births. I want to put one in the galley floor so I can build a water tank in the forward part of the keel where there is just empty space above the ballast. I plan to use a thin fine jigsaw blade to carefully cut a rectangle with rounded corners then use the cut out piece for the cover. Some carful sanding, four countersunk stainless screws and it will look factory made. I know the cal 29's have them but they have the long fin keel so there is not much room under them. I was just wondering if anyone else had done it. I want to long distance cruise so I will need more water. It's a good place to put something heavy like water. Where is your holding tank? I am thinking I will build one under the V berth. It will be empty at sea so the weight in the bow won't be a problem. It's good to hear from you. Thanks for the feedback. Dan R From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Brian Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2010 10:42 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: cutting an access hatch Hello Dan, I have a Cal 30 also. However, mine has access to the bilges by way of the aft quarter berthings. The panels should be removable, since it would not make any sense not to be able to get to them from inside the vessel. If you are wanting to make access panels, you can find the kits at West Marine. You will want to make sure that you have framed the new hatch appropriately so that you don't undermine the integrity of the deck. Are you planning to put this access in the deck of the cockpit? Brian Cal 30 Puget Sound, WA --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, "richmondj50" <dvrich1@...> wrote: > > Hi > I have a cal 30 with no access to the bilge amidships. > I plan to cut a hatch and would like to know if anyone has done this. > Thanks > Dan R > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.869 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3250 - Release Date: 11/10/10 23:34:00 ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links

http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/multifunction-tools/multifunction-power-tool-67256.html On Thu, Nov 11, 2010 at 2:57 PM, Husar, Charlie [USA] <hu… [at] bah.com > wrote: > > > Dan, this is a great application for the Rockwell Sonicrafter or Fein > Multimaster with a flat blade. Allows you to cut very straight and skinny > lines (using a straight piece of wood as a guide), and to use the removed > part as the hatch board. I have some photos I did when doing replacement > plywood on cabin seats/bunks with hatches. For the rounded corners, I drill > small holes in a pattern (after center punching) around each corner, and > then connect the dots with the Sonicrafter or a jig saw. With enough holes, > the joint will punch out, and you can sand the corner areas smooth. If arcs > are consistent, then you do not need to worry about which direction you > insert the hatch board. Very satisfying when it will go in either way. > > If I understand what you are doing, you will need framing pieces around the > hole that protrude about 1/2" to support the hatch when you insert it. You > would like the framing to extend beyond the hole as far as possible fore and > aft for strength. More than 4 screws would be good (ends, sides, and > corners). Again, I have some photos from an application where I could work > with the wood outside the boat. Idea is the same, though. > > Cheers > Charlie > > -----Original Message----- > From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto: > Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of > Daniel Richmond > Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2010 5:15 PM > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> > Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] Re: cutting an access hatch > > Hi Brian > It's good to know there is another one in the area. I am in Everet. > How do you like your boat? Have you done much cruising with it? No, I have > access under the births. I want to put one in the galley floor so I can > build a water tank in the forward part of the keel where there is just empty > space above the ballast. I plan to use a thin fine jigsaw blade to carefully > cut a rectangle with rounded corners then use the cut out piece for the > cover. Some carful sanding, four countersunk stainless screws and it will > look factory made. I know the cal 29's have them but they have the long fin > keel so there is not much room under them. I was just wondering if anyone > else had done it. I want to long distance cruise so I will need more water. > It's a good place to put something heavy like water. > Where is your holding tank? I am thinking I will build one under the V > berth. It will be empty at sea so the weight in the bow won't be a problem. > It's good to hear from you. > Thanks for the feedback. > Dan R > > -----Original Message----- > From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto: > Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of > Brian > Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2010 10:42 AM > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: cutting an access hatch > > Hello Dan, > > I have a Cal 30 also. However, mine has access to the bilges by way of the > aft quarter berthings. The panels should be removable, since it would not > make any sense not to be able to get to them from inside the vessel. If you > are wanting to make access panels, you can find the kits at West Marine. You > will want to make sure that you have framed the new hatch appropriately so > that you don't undermine the integrity of the deck. Are you planning to put > this access in the deck of the cockpit? > > Brian > Cal 30 > Puget Sound, WA > --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com>, > "richmondj50" <dvrich1@...> wrote: > > > > Hi > > I have a cal 30 with no access to the bilge amidships. > > I plan to cut a hatch and would like to know if anyone has done this. > > Thanks > > Dan R > > > > ------------------------------------ > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 9.0.869 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3250 - Release Date: 11/10/10 > 23:34:00 > > ------------------------------------ > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > >

Great tool. I have the dremel version that takes Bosch bits as well. The only issue with these is that up here in the great white, a friggen bit costs more then the entire tool from Harbour Freight. Darn good tool though. I like mine as its corded and has the power needed, Found the Bosch equivalent on batteries to be too light duty. YMMV. /ch

Hi, All. I would be curious to know what experiences people have had with Harbor Freight tools. The price looks great, but I wonder about the quality. I tend to be more than an occasional user on power tools. This also goes for blades and attachments for the tools (which tend to be expensive). I have found that Sonicrafter blades last longer than Fein, for instance. Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Allen Edwards Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2010 7:22 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] cutting an access hatch (Dan) http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/multifunction-tools/multifunction-power-tool-67256.html On Thu, Nov 11, 2010 at 2:57 PM, Husar, Charlie [USA] <hu… [at] bah.com<mailto:hu… [at] bah.com>> wrote: Dan, this is a great application for the Rockwell Sonicrafter or Fein Multimaster with a flat blade. Allows you to cut very straight and skinny lines (using a straight piece of wood as a guide), and to use the removed part as the hatch board. I have some photos I did when doing replacement plywood on cabin seats/bunks with hatches. For the rounded corners, I drill small holes in a pattern (after center punching) around each corner, and then connect the dots with the Sonicrafter or a jig saw. With enough holes, the joint will punch out, and you can sand the corner areas smooth. If arcs are consistent, then you do not need to worry about which direction you insert the hatch board. Very satisfying when it will go in either way. If I understand what you are doing, you will need framing pieces around the hole that protrude about 1/2" to support the hatch when you insert it. You would like the framing to extend beyond the hole as far as possible fore and aft for strength. More than 4 screws would be good (ends, sides, and corners). Again, I have some photos from an application where I could work with the wood outside the boat. Idea is the same, though. Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Daniel Richmond Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2010 5:15 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] Re: cutting an access hatch Hi Brian It's good to know there is another one in the area. I am in Everet. How do you like your boat? Have you done much cruising with it? No, I have access under the births. I want to put one in the galley floor so I can build a water tank in the forward part of the keel where there is just empty space above the ballast. I plan to use a thin fine jigsaw blade to carefully cut a rectangle with rounded corners then use the cut out piece for the cover. Some carful sanding, four countersunk stainless screws and it will look factory made. I know the cal 29's have them but they have the long fin keel so there is not much room under them. I was just wondering if anyone else had done it. I want to long distance cruise so I will need more water. It's a good place to put something heavy like water. Where is your holding tank? I am thinking I will build one under the V berth. It will be empty at sea so the weight in the bow won't be a problem. It's good to hear from you. Thanks for the feedback. Dan R From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Brian Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2010 10:42 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: cutting an access hatch Hello Dan, I have a Cal 30 also. However, mine has access to the bilges by way of the aft quarter berthings. The panels should be removable, since it would not make any sense not to be able to get to them from inside the vessel. If you are wanting to make access panels, you can find the kits at West Marine. You will want to make sure that you have framed the new hatch appropriately so that you don't undermine the integrity of the deck. Are you planning to put this access in the deck of the cockpit? Brian Cal 30 Puget Sound, WA --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com>, "richmondj50" <dvrich1@...> wrote: > > Hi > I have a cal 30 with no access to the bilge amidships. > I plan to cut a hatch and would like to know if anyone has done this. > Thanks > Dan R > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com<http://www.avg.com> Version: 9.0.869 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3250 - Release Date: 11/10/10 23:34:00 ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links

The Harbor Freight tool is fine for the occasional project like the one being discussed. It works great but the tool is a little fat and hard to hold and it gets hot. For my use, I love it. I can use it for so many things. If I were going to use a tool like this for hours at a time, I would buy the $400 one but for using it every few weeks for a fer minutes to do some task like flush cut dowels, or scrape the caulking off 30 feet of trim, it is wonderful. The accessories seem fine and cost about $8 each typically. I have not used the more expensive ones with the exception that I do have a Bosh detail sander and much prefer it to using the Harbor Freight tool for detail sanding. Not because it does a better job, it doesn't. The Bosh has a vacuum accessory and a quick change arrangement with different sanding tools and the ability to turn the triangle pad 1/3 rotation when that front corner wears out. But the Harbor Freight tool works fine. This is unlike the Home Depot detail sander that, as the reviews say, is a very nice size, gets into very small places, but doesn't actually sand anything. The Harbor Freight tool works. It is also great for cutting PVC pipe. But if you are a pro and use these tools for 8 hours a day, buy a pro tool. This is a tool for people trying to complete their projects more efficiently. Hope this helps. Allen On Thu, Nov 11, 2010 at 5:54 PM, Husar, Charlie [USA] <hu… [at] bah.com > wrote: > > > Hi, All. I would be curious to know what experiences people have had with > Harbor Freight tools. The price looks great, but I wonder about the > quality. I tend to be more than an occasional user on power tools. This > also goes for blades and attachments for the tools (which tend to be > expensive). I have found that Sonicrafter blades last longer than Fein, for > instance. > > Cheers > Charlie > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] *On > Behalf Of *Allen Edwards > *Sent:* Thursday, November 11, 2010 7:22 PM > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] cutting an access hatch (Dan) > > > http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/multifunction-tools/multifunction-power-tool-67256.html > > On Thu, Nov 11, 2010 at 2:57 PM, Husar, Charlie [USA] < > hu… [at] bah.com> wrote: > >> >> >> Dan, this is a great application for the Rockwell Sonicrafter or Fein >> Multimaster with a flat blade. Allows you to cut very straight and skinny >> lines (using a straight piece of wood as a guide), and to use the removed >> part as the hatch board. I have some photos I did when doing replacement >> plywood on cabin seats/bunks with hatches. For the rounded corners, I drill >> small holes in a pattern (after center punching) around each corner, and >> then connect the dots with the Sonicrafter or a jig saw. With enough holes, >> the joint will punch out, and you can sand the corner areas smooth. If arcs >> are consistent, then you do not need to worry about which direction you >> insert the hatch board. Very satisfying when it will go in either way. >> >> If I understand what you are doing, you will need framing pieces around >> the hole that protrude about 1/2" to support the hatch when you insert it. >> You would like the framing to extend beyond the hole as far as possible fore >> and aft for strength. More than 4 screws would be good (ends, sides, and >> corners). Again, I have some photos from an application where I could work >> with the wood outside the boat. Idea is the same, though. >> >> Cheers >> Charlie >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto: >> Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of >> Daniel Richmond >> Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2010 5:15 PM >> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> >> Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] Re: cutting an access hatch >> >> Hi Brian >> It's good to know there is another one in the area. I am in Everet. >> How do you like your boat? Have you done much cruising with it? No, I have >> access under the births. I want to put one in the galley floor so I can >> build a water tank in the forward part of the keel where there is just empty >> space above the ballast. I plan to use a thin fine jigsaw blade to carefully >> cut a rectangle with rounded corners then use the cut out piece for the >> cover. Some carful sanding, four countersunk stainless screws and it will >> look factory made. I know the cal 29's have them but they have the long fin >> keel so there is not much room under them. I was just wondering if anyone >> else had done it. I want to long distance cruise so I will need more water. >> It's a good place to put something heavy like water. >> Where is your holding tank? I am thinking I will build one under the V >> berth. It will be empty at sea so the weight in the bow won't be a problem. >> It's good to hear from you. >> Thanks for the feedback. >> Dan R >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto: >> Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of >> Brian >> Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2010 10:42 AM >> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> >> Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: cutting an access hatch >> >> Hello Dan, >> >> I have a Cal 30 also. However, mine has access to the bilges by way of the >> aft quarter berthings. The panels should be removable, since it would not >> make any sense not to be able to get to them from inside the vessel. If you >> are wanting to make access panels, you can find the kits at West Marine. You >> will want to make sure that you have framed the new hatch appropriately so >> that you don't undermine the integrity of the deck. Are you planning to put >> this access in the deck of the cockpit? >> >> Brian >> Cal 30 >> Puget Sound, WA >> --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com>, >> "richmondj50" <dvrich1@...> wrote: >> > >> > Hi >> > I have a cal 30 with no access to the bilge amidships. >> > I plan to cut a hatch and would like to know if anyone has done this. >> > Thanks >> > Dan R >> > >> >> ------------------------------------ >> >> Yahoo! Groups Links >> >> No virus found in this incoming message. >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >> Version: 9.0.869 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3250 - Release Date: 11/10/10 >> 23:34:00 >> >> ------------------------------------ >> >> Yahoo! Groups Links >> >> > >

Harbor Freight in the States is like Princess Auto up here in the North. All Chinese import products which are fine as we never had this option before. Being a small population our selection of tools has been mid grade and high end and nothing in between, whereas in the States you have had a large spectrum for a long time based on population demographics and sales volume. Low end tools are great if you remember that they are disposable. Its all a factor of simple economies of scale. Low end tools, typically Chinese designed (cloned) and build, task specific and disposable at a very low cost. No warranty,no support Mid range tools, typically non Chinese build but assembled somewhere in the far east to US/CDN/EU specs, at reasonable costs when on sale and keepers. Internals on power tools can be plastic or metal so you need to know your tools. Reasonable warranties, support varies High end tools, eg Fein etc, assembled in the far east or US but to tight QA/QC standards, pay a premium for the brand, internals and mechanism are high quality typical metal not plastic. Definitely a selection of keepers. good warranties, cant comment on support as don't own any in this group other then Sears and CDN Tire stuff, mostly wrenches, which come with an over the counter replacement lifetime warranty. For us in the North, the warranties are the key, especially if you work with your tools. Bosch for example has the best. The tools (typically power tools) are delivered in three days no questions asked, via courier. Others like Dewalt you need to bring in to the warranty depot and they ship them off for repairs at no cost. Time lag is typically three weeks. So you loose the use of the tool for that period. That's were Harbour Freight/Princess Auto come in to cover that period. So I would say its task specific as it comes to boats. My multi speed polisher is from Harbour Freight. My various saws for interior carpentry work are all Bosch. Electrical stuff varies as it comes on sale, and wrenches are from Sears of CDN tire with lifetime warranties that do not include dropping them over board. In general heavy use tools that are precision instruments, I tend to stay away from cordless as you cannot get the duration of usage time from a cordless device if I'm doing precision work. For general work, cordless tools are wonderful. So for me at least its all task specific...HTH's some. Best regards /ch

As long as we are talking tools, let me put in a plug for the Home Depot Ryobi 3/8 in VSR Clutch Driver. It is about the only corded drill with adjustable drive torque like the cordless drills have. It costs about what a replacement battery costs for a cordless drill. I did notice, however, that the step between 20 and 21 was more like going from 20 to 2010. 20 wasn't strong enough and 21 drove the head of the screw through the board. I am talking about driving 2.5x14 screws into hardwood though. Sidetracked but this drill is wonderful. I don't know why nobody else makes one. Sanders: Bosch is the best of what I have (Craftsman, DeWalt, Porter-Cable, Black and Decker). Bosch is so much better. Jig saws, same thing. I love working on my boat. Good thing. Allen On Thu, Nov 11, 2010 at 7:03 PM, chris123 <ch… [at] gmail.com> wrote: > > > > Harbor Freight in the States is like Princess Auto up here in the North. All Chinese import products which are fine as we never had this option before. Being a small population our selection of tools has been mid grade and high end and nothing in between, whereas in the States you have had a large spectrum for a long time based on population demographics and sales volume. Low end tools are great if you remember that they are disposable. Its all a factor of simple economies of scale. > > Low end tools, typically Chinese designed (cloned) and build, task specific and disposable at a very low cost. No warranty,no support > > Mid range tools, typically non Chinese build but assembled somewhere in the far east to US/CDN/EU specs, at reasonable costs when on sale and keepers. Internals on power tools can be plastic or metal so you need to know your tools. Reasonable warranties, support varies > > High end tools, eg Fein etc, assembled in the far east or US but to tight QA/QC standards, pay a premium for the brand, internals and mechanism are high quality typical metal not plastic. Definitely a selection of keepers. good warranties, cant comment on support as don't own any in this group other then Sears and CDN Tire stuff, mostly wrenches, which come with an over the counter replacement lifetime warranty. > > For us in the North, the warranties are the key, especially if you work with your tools. Bosch for example has the best. The tools (typically power tools) are delivered in three days no questions asked, via courier. Others like Dewalt you need to bring in to the warranty depot and they ship them off for repairs at no cost. Time lag is typically three weeks. So you loose the use of the tool for that period. That's were Harbour Freight/Princess Auto come in to cover that period. > > So I would say its task specific as it comes to boats. My multi speed polisher is from Harbour Freight. My various saws for interior carpentry work are all Bosch. Electrical stuff varies as it comes on sale, and wrenches are from Sears of CDN tire with lifetime warranties that do not include dropping them over board. In general heavy use tools that are precision instruments, I tend to stay away from cordless as you cannot get the duration of usage time from a cordless device if I'm doing precision work. For general work, cordless tools are wonderful. > > So for me at least its all task specific...HTH's some. > > Best regards > > /ch > > >

What year is your Cal 30? Do you have pics? I haven't sailed mine yet, I just acquired it this past summer and I'm getting ready to move her out of the Hood Canal next week. It will be the first time that she has left her spot in over ten years, and probably the first time she's been out of this area in over twenty. She has a long history of neglect, but despite her loneliness all these years, she still pretty solid. She needs TLC. I love the lines of her and the teek accents throughout out are an amazing value to the appearance and workmanship. She is a huge step up from my American 24. Brian, bh… [at] msn.com --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, "Daniel Richmond" <dvrich1@...> wrote: > > Hi Brian > It's good to know there is another one in the area. I am in Everet. > How do you like your boat? Have you done much cruising with it? No, I have > access under the births. I want to put one in the galley floor so I can > build a water tank in the forward part of the keel where there is just empty > space above the ballast. I plan to use a thin fine jigsaw blade to > carefully cut a rectangle with rounded corners then use the cut out piece > for the cover. Some carful sanding, four countersunk stainless screws and it > will look factory made. I know the cal 29's have them but they have the > long fin keel so there is not much room under them. I was just wondering if > anyone else had done it. I want to long distance cruise so I will need more > water. It's a good place to put something heavy like water. > Where is your holding tank? I am thinking I will build one under the V > berth. It will be empty at sea so the weight in the bow won't be a problem. > It's good to hear from you. > Thanks for the feedback. > Dan R > > -----Original Message----- > From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf > Of Brian > Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2010 10:42 AM > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: cutting an access hatch > > > Hello Dan, > > I have a Cal 30 also. However, mine has access to the bilges by way of the > aft quarter berthings. The panels should be removable, since it would not > make any sense not to be able to get to them from inside the vessel. If you > are wanting to make access panels, you can find the kits at West Marine. You > will want to make sure that you have framed the new hatch appropriately so > that you don't undermine the integrity of the deck. Are you planning to put > this access in the deck of the cockpit? > > Brian > Cal 30 > Puget Sound, WA > --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, "richmondj50" <dvrich1@> wrote: > > > > Hi > > I have a cal 30 with no access to the bilge amidships. > > I plan to cut a hatch and would like to know if anyone has done this. > > Thanks > > Dan R > > > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 9.0.869 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3250 - Release Date: 11/10/10 > 23:34:00 >

I have shopped Harbor Freight since the early 80's in SoCal, now Pensacola and have several of their tools, 12 ton hydraulic press, parts washer, bead blaster, engine hoist, wrenches, etc. all good quality and some I have used for over ten years. Notice, no powered tools! Reason, they do not last long. Over the years I have tried a few, heat gun, shop vacuum and they only have lasted a few hours. I am returning a shop vac that I bought recently that will not pick up saw dust. I use Milwaukee, Porter Cable, De Walt mostly, but have a Fein biscuit joiner and a Bosch hand planer. My Milwaukee variable speed sander, grinder, buffer is about the best hand tool I have, heavy but built to last. I use all of these tools in my business, BSH Marine, grinding fiberglass, hoisting engines, pressing bearings and seals, etc., so they get a lot of use by different people. My American made power tools are just better. Tom Vandiver, Cal 46 From: "Husar, Charlie [USA]" <hu… [at] bah.com> To: "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Thu, November 11, 2010 7:54:47 PM Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] cutting an access hatch (Dan) Hi, All. I would be curious to know what experiences people have had with Harbor Freight tools. The price looks great, but I wonder about the quality. I tend to be more than an occasional user on power tools. This also goes for blades and attachments for the tools (which tend to be expensive). I have found that Sonicrafter blades last longer than Fein, for instance. Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Allen Edwards Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2010 7:22 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] cutting an access hatch (Dan) http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/multifunction-tools/multifunction-power-tool-67256.html On Thu, Nov 11, 2010 at 2:57 PM, Husar, Charlie [USA] <hu… [at] bah.com> wrote: >Dan, this is a great application for the Rockwell Sonicrafter or Fein >Multimaster with a flat blade. Allows you to cut very straight and skinny lines >(using a straight piece of wood as a guide), and to use the removed part as the >hatch board. I have some photos I did when doing replacement plywood on cabin >seats/bunks with hatches. For the rounded corners, I drill small holes in a >pattern (after center punching) around each corner, and then connect the dots >with the Sonicrafter or a jig saw. With enough holes, the joint will punch out, >and you can sand the corner areas smooth. If arcs are consistent, then you do >not need to worry about which direction you insert the hatch board. Very >satisfying when it will go in either way. > > >If I understand what you are doing, you will need framing pieces around the hole >that protrude about 1/2" to support the hatch when you insert it. You would like >the framing to extend beyond the hole as far as possible fore and aft for >strength. More than 4 screws would be good (ends, sides, and corners). Again, I >have some photos from an application where I could work with the wood outside >the boat. Idea is the same, though. > >Cheers >Charlie > >-----Original Message----- >From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of >Daniel Richmond >Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2010 5:15 PM >To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com >Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] Re: cutting an access hatch > >Hi Brian >It's good to know there is another one in the area. I am in Everet. >How do you like your boat? Have you done much cruising with it? No, I have >access under the births. I want to put one in the galley floor so I can build a >water tank in the forward part of the keel where there is just empty space above >the ballast. I plan to use a thin fine jigsaw blade to carefully cut a rectangle >with rounded corners then use the cut out piece for the cover. Some carful >sanding, four countersunk stainless screws and it will look factory made. I know >the cal 29's have them but they have the long fin keel so there is not much room >under them. I was just wondering if anyone else had done it. I want to long >distance cruise so I will need more water. It's a good place to put something >heavy like water. >Where is your holding tank? I am thinking I will build one under the V berth. It >will be empty at sea so the weight in the bow won't be a problem. >It's good to hear from you. >Thanks for the feedback. >Dan R > >-----Original Message----- >From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of >Brian >Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2010 10:42 AM >To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com >Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: cutting an access hatch > >Hello Dan, > >I have a Cal 30 also. However, mine has access to the bilges by way of the aft >quarter berthings. The panels should be removable, since it would not make any >sense not to be able to get to them from inside the vessel. If you are wanting >to make access panels, you can find the kits at West Marine. You will want to >make sure that you have framed the new hatch appropriately so that you don't >undermine the integrity of the deck. Are you planning to put this access in the >deck of the cockpit? > >Brian >Cal 30 >Puget Sound, WA >--- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, "richmondj50" <dvrich1@...> wrote: >> >> Hi >> I have a cal 30 with no access to the bilge amidships. >> I plan to cut a hatch and would like to know if anyone has done this. >> Thanks >> Dan R >> > >------------------------------------ > >Yahoo! Groups Links > >No virus found in this incoming message. >Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >Version: 9.0.869 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3250 - Release Date: 11/10/10 >23:34:00 > >------------------------------------ > >Yahoo! Groups Links > >

On 11/11/2010 8:54 PM, Husar, Charlie [USA] wrote: > > Hi, All. I would be curious to know what experiences people have had > with Harbor Freight tools. The price looks great, but I wonder about > the quality. A general comment about cheap tools. When I was a kid, my Dad had bought an imported Crescent wrench look-alike that was a real POS. The adjuster was sloppy, the jaws deformed. It taught a lesson about paying for quality in tools. But then I moved to Tennessee for a year and had just my little traveling box of tools, the ones for roadside emergencies. The Oldsmobile I was driving had a recessed oil drain plug requiring a little star-shaped adapter. That required a 1/2" socket drive. So I went out and paid $1.50 for a cheapo ratchet handle, figuring it didn't need to work well for just changing oil. It worked perfectly, flawlessly, and when somebody broke into my car and stole the toolbox a decade later, I was heartbroken. I bought another cheapie, hoping for a repeat performance. It's OK but not as perfect as the first one. For things that will see a lot of use or a lot of stress, I tend to buy good stuff so I'm not left sputtering when the device fails at the wrong time & place (which is when they always fail). The local Ace Hardware has a cheap-tools table now, and they are always tempting, but usually notably inferior to their more expensive cousins. Chris Campbell >

Here is the add when I bought her. I actually bought her before he put her up for sale. I was walking the docks looking and he was working on her getting her ready to post the add. We got to talking and I said I was looking for a bigger boat and he said make me on offer. To make a long story short I got her for 9500$. He used to race her but has not sailed her for a couple of years so there is some work to do. Here is the add. Dan R From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Brian Sent: Friday, November 12, 2010 12:39 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: cutting an access hatch What year is your Cal 30? Do you have pics? I haven't sailed mine yet, I just acquired it this past summer and I'm getting ready to move her out of the Hood Canal next week. It will be the first time that she has left her spot in over ten years, and probably the first time she's been out of this area in over twenty. She has a long history of neglect, but despite her loneliness all these years, she still pretty solid. She needs TLC. I love the lines of her and the teek accents throughout out are an amazing value to the appearance and workmanship. She is a huge step up from my American 24.

Oh and to answer your question she was built in 1966. No I haven't sailed her and won't for a while. I need to replace part of the port bulk head where the chain plate is fastened. I also want to pull the other chain plate and check it then replace if needed. I also want to replace the standing rigging. The last thing I need is to lose the mast. From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Brian Sent: Friday, November 12, 2010 12:39 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: cutting an access hatch What year is your Cal 30? Do you have pics?

looks nice, has a salon like our 29 and a v-berth and head quarter like our 36. it's nice when they haven't painted up all the teak inside.plus up north you don't get as much sunlight which when it comes in through the ports can age the color of the teak. If they didn't use the boat much and the sails were under wraps, you could have some nice sails too. HH From: Daniel Richmond <dv… [at] frontier.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Fri, November 12, 2010 9:11:12 AM Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] Re: cutting an access hatch [1 Attachment] [Attachment(s) from Daniel Richmond included below] Here is the add when I bought her. I actually bought her before he put her up for sale. I was walking the docks looking and he was working on her getting her ready to post the add. We got to talking and I said I was looking for a bigger boat and he said make me on offer. To make a long story short I got her for 9500$. He used to race her but has not sailed her for a couple of years so there is some work to do. Here is the add. Dan R From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Brian Sent: Friday, November 12, 2010 12:39 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: cutting an access hatch What year is your Cal 30? Do you have pics? I haven't sailed mine yet, I just acquired it this past summer and I'm getting ready to move her out of the Hood Canal next week. It will be the first time that she has left her spot in over ten years, and probably the first time she's been out of this area in over twenty. She has a long history of neglect, but despite her loneliness all these years, she still pretty solid. She needs TLC. I love the lines of her and the teek accents throughout out are an amazing value to the appearance and workmanship. She is a huge step up from my American 24.

Helen I got very lucky. The main is brand new and the others are in good shape. He stored them in his garage. He raced it so he took very good care of the boat and the sails. Sweet Dan R From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Helen Horn Sent: Friday, November 12, 2010 10:26 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Re: cutting an access hatch looks nice, has a salon like our 29 and a v-berth and head quarter like our 36. it's nice when they haven't painted up all the teak inside.plus up north you don't get as much sunlight which when it comes in through the ports can age the color of the teak. If they didn't use the boat much and the sails were under wraps, you could have some nice sails too. HH _____ From: Daniel Richmond <dv… [at] frontier.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Fri, November 12, 2010 9:11:12 AM Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] Re: cutting an access hatch [1 Attachment] Here is the add when I bought her. I actually bought her before he put her up for sale. I was walking the docks looking and he was working on her getting her ready to post the add. We got to talking and I said I was looking for a bigger boat and he said make me on offer. To make a long story short I got her for 9500$. He used to race her but has not sailed her for a couple of years so there is some work to do. Here is the add. Dan R From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <mailto:Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <mailto:Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Brian Sent: Friday, November 12, 2010 12:39 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <mailto:Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: cutting an access hatch What year is your Cal 30? Do you have pics? I haven't sailed mine yet, I just acquired it this past summer and I'm getting ready to move her out of the Hood Canal next week. It will be the first time that she has left her spot in over ten years, and probably the first time she's been out of this area in over twenty. She has a long history of neglect, but despite her loneliness all these years, she still pretty solid. She needs TLC. I love the lines of her and the teek accents throughout out are an amazing value to the appearance and workmanship. She is a huge step up from my American 24. No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.869 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3253 - Release Date: 11/12/10 02:40:00

Hay Charley I like the idea but it won't cut radiused corners. I think I will use guides and a jig saw. I think I will get one though because I have some other projects on the boat that it will work best on. Thanks for the tip. Dan R From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Husar, Charlie [USA] Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2010 2:57 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: [Cal_Boats] cutting an access hatch (Dan) Dan, this is a great application for the Rockwell Sonicrafter or Fein Multimaster with a flat blade. Allows you to cut very straight and skinny lines.

Brian I know what you mean by sweet lines. I have had had to walk out the dock behind where she is docked twice just to look at her stern. It reminds me of somewhat of the old wood sailing schooners. I get a catch in my throat. Dan R From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Brian Sent: Friday, November 12, 2010 12:39 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: cutting an access hatch What year is your Cal 30? Do you have pics? I haven't sailed mine yet, I just acquired it this past summer and I'm getting ready to move her out of the Hood Canal next week. It will be the first time that she has left her spot in over ten years, and probably the first time she's been out of this area in over twenty. She has a long history of neglect, but despite her loneliness all these years, she still pretty solid. She needs TLC. I love the lines of her and the teek accents throughout out are an amazing value to the appearance and workmanship. She is a huge step up from my American 24. Brian, bh… [at] msn.com --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, "Daniel Richmond" <dvrich1@...> wrote: > > Hi Brian > It's good to know there is another one in the area. I am in Everet. > How do you like your boat? Have you done much cruising with it? No, I have > access under the births. I want to put one in the galley floor so I can > build a water tank in the forward part of the keel where there is just empty > space above the ballast. I plan to use a thin fine jigsaw blade to > carefully cut a rectangle with rounded corners then use the cut out piece > for the cover. Some carful sanding, four countersunk stainless screws and it > will look factory made. I know the cal 29's have them but they have the > long fin keel so there is not much room under them. I was just wondering if > anyone else had done it. I want to long distance cruise so I will need more > water. It's a good place to put something heavy like water. > Where is your holding tank? I am thinking I will build one under the V > berth. It will be empty at sea so the weight in the bow won't be a problem. > It's good to hear from you. > Thanks for the feedback. > Dan R > > -----Original Message----- > From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf > Of Brian > Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2010 10:42 AM > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: cutting an access hatch > > > Hello Dan, > > I have a Cal 30 also. However, mine has access to the bilges by way of the > aft quarter berthings. The panels should be removable, since it would not > make any sense not to be able to get to them from inside the vessel. If you > are wanting to make access panels, you can find the kits at West Marine. You > will want to make sure that you have framed the new hatch appropriately so > that you don't undermine the integrity of the deck. Are you planning to put > this access in the deck of the cockpit? > > Brian > Cal 30 > Puget Sound, WA > --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, "richmondj50" <dvrich1@> wrote: > > > > Hi > > I have a cal 30 with no access to the bilge amidships. > > I plan to cut a hatch and would like to know if anyone has done this. > > Thanks > > Dan R > > > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 9.0.869 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3250 - Release Date: 11/10/10 > 23:34:00 > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.869 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3251 - Release Date: 11/11/10 11:34:00

Helen It is very much like the 29 ( we looked at one first). The V berth has a bit of a cut out in the center which makes it easier to get up at night without waking your partner (which she likes). The engine is tucked farther back under the cockpit which allows just a bit longer cabin and the companion way steps seem somewhat shorter. The 29 we looked at had the stock gas engine (good engine) but the 30 has a Perkins diesel. No contest. Dan R From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Helen Horn Sent: Friday, November 12, 2010 10:26 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Re: cutting an access hatch looks nice, has a salon like our 29 and a v-berth and head quarter like our 36. it's nice when they haven't painted up all the teak inside.plus up north you don't get as much sunlight which when it comes in through the ports can age the color of the teak. If they didn't use the boat much and the sails were under wraps, you could have some nice sails too. HH

Allen, I love the Ryobi. I have two or three (forget which) because I tend to store tools near the point of need. Price is right. It is Black and Decker price at much higher (apparent) quality. Lasts much longer at any rate. I think there are other adjustables, but more in the astral price range. Would need to look, tho. I just find the Ryobi, so I don't search a lot. Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Allen Edwards Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2010 10:24 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] cutting an access hatch (Dan) As long as we are talking tools, let me put in a plug for the Home Depot Ryobi 3/8 in VSR Clutch Driver. It is about the only corded drill with adjustable drive torque like the cordless drills have. It costs about what a replacement battery costs for a cordless drill. I did notice, however, that the step between 20 and 21 was more like going from 20 to 2010. 20 wasn't strong enough and 21 drove the head of the screw through the board. I am talking about driving 2.5x14 screws into hardwood though. Sidetracked but this drill is wonderful. I don't know why nobody else makes one. Sanders: Bosch is the best of what I have (Craftsman, DeWalt, Porter-Cable, Black and Decker). Bosch is so much better. Jig saws, same thing. I love working on my boat. Good thing. Allen On Thu, Nov 11, 2010 at 7:03 PM, chris123 <ch… [at] gmail.com> wrote: > > > > Harbor Freight in the States is like Princess Auto up here in the North. All Chinese import products which are fine as we never had this option before. Being a small population our selection of tools has been mid grade and high end and nothing in between, whereas in the States you have had a large spectrum for a long time based on population demographics and sales volume. Low end tools are great if you remember that they are disposable. Its all a factor of simple economies of scale. > > Low end tools, typically Chinese designed (cloned) and build, task > specific and disposable at a very low cost. No warranty,no support > > Mid range tools, typically non Chinese build but assembled somewhere > in the far east to US/CDN/EU specs, at reasonable costs when on sale > and keepers. Internals on power tools can be plastic or metal so you > need to know your tools. Reasonable warranties, support varies > > High end tools, eg Fein etc, assembled in the far east or US but to tight QA/QC standards, pay a premium for the brand, internals and mechanism are high quality typical metal not plastic. Definitely a selection of keepers. good warranties, cant comment on support as don't own any in this group other then Sears and CDN Tire stuff, mostly wrenches, which come with an over the counter replacement lifetime warranty. > > For us in the North, the warranties are the key, especially if you work with your tools. Bosch for example has the best. The tools (typically power tools) are delivered in three days no questions asked, via courier. Others like Dewalt you need to bring in to the warranty depot and they ship them off for repairs at no cost. Time lag is typically three weeks. So you loose the use of the tool for that period. That's were Harbour Freight/Princess Auto come in to cover that period. > > So I would say its task specific as it comes to boats. My multi speed polisher is from Harbour Freight. My various saws for interior carpentry work are all Bosch. Electrical stuff varies as it comes on sale, and wrenches are from Sears of CDN tire with lifetime warranties that do not include dropping them over board. In general heavy use tools that are precision instruments, I tend to stay away from cordless as you cannot get the duration of usage time from a cordless device if I'm doing precision work. For general work, cordless tools are wonderful. > > So for me at least its all task specific...HTH's some. > > Best regards > > /ch > > > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links

Chris, sounds like you had a POS-itive experience. Sorry, couldn't resist it. I sometimes consider cheap when I think I won't be the same type of job again. Next thing I know, there are more and more uses. My tools typically get put to bed when I find a better/easier way to do something than the tool provided. As far as gluing things to the cabin floor, I think about the disasters with the glue-on carpet on the walls of many CALs. How about Velcro around the edges? Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Chris Sent: Friday, November 12, 2010 11:56 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] cutting an access hatch (Dan) On 11/11/2010 8:54 PM, Husar, Charlie [USA] wrote: Hi, All. I would be curious to know what experiences people have had with Harbor Freight tools. The price looks great, but I wonder about the quality. A general comment about cheap tools. When I was a kid, my Dad had bought an imported Crescent wrench look-alike that was a real POS. The adjuster was sloppy, the jaws deformed. It taught a lesson about paying for quality in tools. But then I moved to Tennessee for a year and had just my little traveling box of tools, the ones for roadside emergencies. The Oldsmobile I was driving had a recessed oil drain plug requiring a little star-shaped adapter. That required a 1/2" socket drive. So I went out and paid $1.50 for a cheapo ratchet handle, figuring it didn't need to work well for just changing oil. It worked perfectly, flawlessly, and when somebody broke into my car and stole the toolbox a decade later, I was heartbroken. I bought another cheapie, hoping for a repeat performance. It's OK but not as perfect as the first one. For things that will see a lot of use or a lot of stress, I tend to buy good stuff so I'm not left sputtering when the device fails at the wrong time & place (which is when they always fail). The local Ace Hardware has a cheap-tools table now, and they are always tempting, but usually notably inferior to their more expensive cousins. Chris Campbell

I searched and searched for corded clutch drills before buying mine. I found the Robi drill at $40 and the Black and Decker at $50, no others. At the time the reviews were better on the Robi and besides I could try it before buying it. The thing I was sensitive to was that I wanted the drill to turn slowly when I just pulled the trigger a little bit. I have other variable speed drills that won't start to turn until you pull half way then they turn fast and you have to back off. The Robi worked just like I wanted. I did find a flaw on my last project. Clutch setting 20 was a little weak and clutch setting 21 was full torque as far as I could tell. In any event, it drove the screw half way through the plywood I was trying to fasten to the teak. Big screw though so tough test. 2.5x14 into hard wood. If there was a Bosch variable clutch corded drill at $100 I would buy it just because I like their other tools so much but as far as I know, nobody else makes one. By the way, I saw multifunction tools everywhere today. Costco even had the Rockwell. They didn't have the price sticker on the rack. OSH had Craftsman, Dremel, Rockwell, and maybe two versions of one of these. I read the patent ran out October 2009 so Harbor Freight was very quick to market. I am guessing that it was the only one other than the Fein when I bought it. Allen On Fri, Nov 12, 2010 at 4:03 PM, Husar, Charlie [USA] <hu… [at] bah.com > wrote: > > > Allen, I love the Ryobi. I have two or three (forget which) because I tend > to store tools near the point of need. Price is right. It is Black and > Decker price at much higher (apparent) quality. Lasts much longer at any > rate. I think there are other adjustables, but more in the astral price > range. Would need to look, tho. I just find the Ryobi, so I don't search a > lot. > > Cheers > Charlie > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto: > Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of > Allen Edwards > Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2010 10:24 PM > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com> > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] cutting an access hatch (Dan) > > As long as we are talking tools, let me put in a plug for the Home > Depot Ryobi 3/8 in VSR Clutch Driver. It is about the only corded drill with > adjustable drive torque like the cordless drills have. It costs about what a > replacement battery costs for a cordless drill. I did notice, however, that > the step between 20 and 21 was more like going from 20 to 2010. 20 wasn't > strong enough and 21 drove the head of the screw through the board. I am > talking about driving 2.5x14 screws into hardwood though. Sidetracked but > this drill is wonderful. > I don't know why nobody else makes one. > > Sanders: Bosch is the best of what I have (Craftsman, DeWalt, Porter-Cable, > Black and Decker). Bosch is so much better. Jig saws, same thing. > > I love working on my boat. Good thing. > > Allen > > On Thu, Nov 11, 2010 at 7:03 PM, chris123 <ch… [at] gmail.com<chris.herrnberger%40gmail.com>> > wrote: > > > > > > > > Harbor Freight in the States is like Princess Auto up here in the North. > All Chinese import products which are fine as we never had this option > before. Being a small population our selection of tools has been mid grade > and high end and nothing in between, whereas in the States you have had a > large spectrum for a long time based on population demographics and sales > volume. Low end tools are great if you remember that they are disposable. > Its all a factor of simple economies of scale. > > > > Low end tools, typically Chinese designed (cloned) and build, task > > specific and disposable at a very low cost. No warranty,no support > > > > Mid range tools, typically non Chinese build but assembled somewhere > > in the far east to US/CDN/EU specs, at reasonable costs when on sale > > and keepers. Internals on power tools can be plastic or metal so you > > need to know your tools. Reasonable warranties, support varies > > > > High end tools, eg Fein etc, assembled in the far east or US but to tight > QA/QC standards, pay a premium for the brand, internals and mechanism are > high quality typical metal not plastic. Definitely a selection of keepers. > good warranties, cant comment on support as don't own any in this group > other then Sears and CDN Tire stuff, mostly wrenches, which come with an > over the counter replacement lifetime warranty. > > > > For us in the North, the warranties are the key, especially if you work > with your tools. Bosch for example has the best. The tools (typically power > tools) are delivered in three days no questions asked, via courier. Others > like Dewalt you need to bring in to the warranty depot and they ship them > off for repairs at no cost. Time lag is typically three weeks. So you loose > the use of the tool for that period. That's were Harbour Freight/Princess > Auto come in to cover that period. > > > > So I would say its task specific as it comes to boats. My multi speed > polisher is from Harbour Freight. My various saws for interior carpentry > work are all Bosch. Electrical stuff varies as it comes on sale, and > wrenches are from Sears of CDN tire with lifetime warranties that do not > include dropping them over board. In general heavy use tools that are > precision instruments, I tend to stay away from cordless as you cannot get > the duration of usage time from a cordless device if I'm doing precision > work. For general work, cordless tools are wonderful. > > > > So for me at least its all task specific...HTH's some. > > > > Best regards > > > > /ch > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > >