mounting blocks on deck

Hi, I'd like to run my halyards to the cockpit and am trying to figure out the best solution to do so. I am planning on running the lines down to blocks, then out to an organizer and then back to the cockpit through line stoppers. The boat is a cal 28 and the companion way is off to one side so I would bring all the lines over the center of the deck. I am not sure what the best method is to attach the blocks at the mast step. The mast pivots on a tabernacle so putting a organizer plate below is not an option: http://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=40&cat1Name=Hardware&familyID=19&familyName=Halyard+Organizer+Plates I could fab a angled plate with some mounting holes and bolt it to the deck with a backing plate. I like this option but should I be worried about the stress created in the deck? Another option could be to use a bunch of pad eyes but I favor the angled plate because it reduces the number of holes through the deck. There are 6 lines, so at least 12 holes. I have ordered these blocks to use: http://ca.binnacle.com/p4414/HARKEN-57MM-SINGLE-CARBO-BLOCK-W/-SWIVEL/product_info.html Thanks all, Adam

On 12/28/2010 4:46 PM, Adam Thorp wrote: > > Hi, > > > I'd like to run my halyards to the cockpit and am trying to figure out > the best solution to do so. I am planning on running the lines down to > blocks, then out to an organizer and then back to the cockpit through > line stoppers. The boat is a cal 28 and the companion way is off to > one side so I would bring all the lines over the center of the deck. > > I am not sure what the best method is to attach the blocks at the mast > step. The mast pivots on a tabernacle so putting a organizer plate > below is not an option: My Cal 20 has a hinged mast step (not quite a tabernacle, but same idea). If I were looking to run the halyards aft, I'd put an organizer plate under the deck half of the mast-step castings. That way, the lines are pulling up on the bottom of the mast, not on the deck. Maybe I'm missing something here? Chris Campbell

No, I don't think you are missing anything. I understand your reply as putting an organizer plate between the tabernacle and deck. Doing so makes sense in term of the forces involved, I'm just not really wanting to remove that tabernacle. It looks like it is *on *there. On Tue, Dec 28, 2010 at 1:53 PM, Chris <cc… [at] lsnm.org> wrote: > > > On 12/28/2010 4:46 PM, Adam Thorp wrote: > > > > Hi, > > I'd like to run my halyards to the cockpit and am trying to figure out > the best solution to do so. I am planning on running the lines down to > blocks, then out to an organizer and then back to the cockpit through line > stoppers. The boat is a cal 28 and the companion way is off to one side so I > would bring all the lines over the center of the deck. > > I am not sure what the best method is to attach the blocks at the mast > step. The mast pivots on a tabernacle so putting a organizer plate below is > not an option: > > > My Cal 20 has a hinged mast step (not quite a tabernacle, but same idea). > If I were looking to run the halyards aft, I'd put an organizer plate under > the deck half of the mast-step castings. That way, the lines are pulling up > on the bottom of the mast, not on the deck. > > Maybe I'm missing something here? > > Chris Campbell > > >

On 12/28/2010 5:02 PM, Adam Thorp wrote: > > No, I don't think you are missing anything. I understand your reply as > putting an organizer plate between the tabernacle and deck. Doing so > makes sense in term of the forces involved, I'm just not really > wanting to remove that tabernacle. It looks like it is /on /there. > On the other hand, usually the forces of the shrouds on the mast want to depress that point, making it a place for water to collect, so removing it and re-sealing underneath is often a good idea. Bear in mind that I keep looking at mine and thinking, "some day I should remove that and re-seal it." Haven't done it yet. Chris > > On Tue, Dec 28, 2010 at 1:53 PM, Chris <cc… [at] lsnm.org > <mailto:cc… [at] lsnm.org>> wrote: > > On 12/28/2010 4:46 PM, Adam Thorp wrote: >> >> Hi, >> >> >> I'd like to run my halyards to the cockpit and am trying to >> figure out the best solution to do so. I am planning on running >> the lines down to blocks, then out to an organizer and then back >> to the cockpit through line stoppers. The boat is a cal 28 and >> the companion way is off to one side so I would bring all the >> lines over the center of the deck. >> >> I am not sure what the best method is to attach the blocks at the >> mast step. The mast pivots on a tabernacle so putting a organizer >> plate below is not an option: > > My Cal 20 has a hinged mast step (not quite a tabernacle, but same > idea). If I were looking to run the halyards aft, I'd put an > organizer plate under the deck half of the mast-step castings. > That way, the lines are pulling up on the bottom of the mast, not > on the deck. > > Maybe I'm missing something here? > > Chris Campbell > > >

Comments in line On Tue, Dec 28, 2010 at 4:46 PM, Adam Thorp <th… [at] gmail.com> wrote: > > > Hi, > > I'd like to run my halyards to the cockpit and am trying to figure out the > best solution to do so. I am planning on running the lines down to blocks, > then out to an organizer and then back to the cockpit through line stoppers. > The boat is a cal 28 and the companion way is off to one side so I would > bring all the lines over the center of the deck. > > I am not sure what the best method is to attach the blocks at the mast > step. The mast pivots on a tabernacle so putting a organizer plate below is > not an option: > > http://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=40&cat1Name=Hardware&familyID=19&familyName=Halyard+Organizer+Plates > Why not? Do you have a picture of your tabernacled system? > > I could fab a angled plate with some mounting holes and bolt it to the deck > with a backing plate. I like this option but should I be worried about the > stress created in the deck? > I would argue not as long as the deck core is solid and the backing plate is thick and wide enough to disperse the stresses evenly. > > Another option could be to use a bunch of pad eyes but I favor the angled > plate because it reduces the number of holes through the deck. There are 6 > lines, so at least 12 holes. > > I have ordered these blocks to use: > > http://ca.binnacle.com/p4414/HARKEN-57MM-SINGLE-CARBO-BLOCK-W/-SWIVEL/product_info.html > > Binnacle is a really good source for stuff up here. So where are you from that you are ordering from a CDN supplier. A fellow moose chaser by any chance? Best regards /ch

> > >> I'd like to run my halyards to the cockpit and am trying to figure out the >> best solution to do so. I am planning on running the lines down to blocks, >> then out to an organizer and then back to the cockpit through line stoppers. >> The boat is a cal 28 and the companion way is off to one side so I would >> bring all the lines over the center of the deck. >> >> I am not sure what the best method is to attach the blocks at the mast >> step. The mast pivots on a tabernacle so putting a organizer plate below is >> not an option: >> >> http://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=40&cat1Name=Hardware&familyID=19&familyName=Halyard+Organizer+Plates >> > > My suggestion doesn't use the blocks you have purchased but they make blocks to do the job you are doing called Halyard Lift Blocks. You don't need pivoting blocks as you know where the line is coming from and going to so you can position the halyard lift block right where it needs to be. http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=29 <http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=29>Allen

I would suggest that mounting eyes of some sort low on the sides of the mast and attaching the swiveling blocks will permit the halyard/mast line outlets to go in any direction needed - usually to deck turning blocks or deck organizers. Because of the low position of the eyes on the mast, they can be through-bolted for extra strength (assuming the mast is down). If the mast is not down, then tapping screws or pop rivets are a less desirable alternative. Just a thought. I used to use the fixed outlet blocks at the base of the mast, but found the off-angles of feed sometimes caused binding and wear on the lines. On my CAL 25s, one does not want to put any parts on the deck over the deck mast support beam since they cannot be through-bolted. Therefore, my lines run a bit forward to deck organizers. I now use mast plates (got from Steve Seal). I do not mount the turning blocks to the deck so the stresses can stay in the mast. Can send pictures of the options if needed. Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Allen Edwards Sent: Wednesday, December 29, 2010 10:55 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] mounting blocks on deck I'd like to run my halyards to the cockpit and am trying to figure out the best solution to do so. I am planning on running the lines down to blocks, then out to an organizer and then back to the cockpit through line stoppers. The boat is a cal 28 and the companion way is off to one side so I would bring all the lines over the center of the deck. I am not sure what the best method is to attach the blocks at the mast step. The mast pivots on a tabernacle so putting a organizer plate below is not an option: http://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=40&cat1Name=Hardware&familyID=19&familyName=Halyard+Organizer+Plates My suggestion doesn't use the blocks you have purchased but they make blocks to do the job you are doing called Halyard Lift Blocks. You don't need pivoting blocks as you know where the line is coming from and going to so you can position the halyard lift block right where it needs to be. http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=29 <http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=29>Allen

I would think he would deform the mast if he bolted to it although not having an aluminum mast I can't say for sure. I would not bolt such a block to my wood mast for fear it would pull out. I would also think that lacking through bolting he will pull the mounting off first time he uses it. The forces are going to be aft as well as up the mast. With a mast mounted winch and cleat, the forces are all up the mast. The mast is strong in that direction but not as strong pulling away from it. Be careful. If mounted to the cabin top, it definitely needs through bolting and a good strong backing tied into something structural. Again, the problem is that the force is both up and back so whatever it is tied to needs to be very strong in both directions. Mast plates like this: http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=68 are inherently strong because the mast is holding them down with the force of the halyard adding to the holding power rather than being a force to rip things apart. Allen On Wed, Dec 29, 2010 at 9:39 AM, Husar, Charlie [USA] <hu… [at] bah.com > wrote: > > > I would suggest that mounting eyes of some sort low on the sides of the > mast and attaching the swiveling blocks will permit the halyard/mast line > outlets to go in any direction needed - usually to deck turning blocks or > deck organizers. Because of the low position of the eyes on the mast, they > can be through-bolted for extra strength (assuming the mast is down). If > the mast is not down, then tapping screws or pop rivets are a less desirable > alternative. Just a thought. > > I used to use the fixed outlet blocks at the base of the mast, but found > the off-angles of feed sometimes caused binding and wear on the lines. On > my CAL 25s, one does not want to put any parts on the deck over the deck > mast support beam since they cannot be through-bolted. Therefore, my lines > run a bit forward to deck organizers. I now use mast plates (got from Steve > Seal). I do not mount the turning blocks to the deck so the stresses can > stay in the mast. Can send pictures of the options if needed. > > Cheers > Charlie > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] *On > Behalf Of *Allen Edwards > *Sent:* Wednesday, December 29, 2010 10:55 AM > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] mounting blocks on deck > > >>> I'd like to run my halyards to the cockpit and am trying to figure out >>> the best solution to do so. I am planning on running the lines down to >>> blocks, then out to an organizer and then back to the cockpit through line >>> stoppers. The boat is a cal 28 and the companion way is off to one side so I >>> would bring all the lines over the center of the deck. >>> >>> I am not sure what the best method is to attach the blocks at the mast >>> step. The mast pivots on a tabernacle so putting a organizer plate below is >>> not an option: >>> >>> http://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=40&cat1Name=Hardware&familyID=19&familyName=Halyard+Organizer+Plates >>> >> >> > My suggestion doesn't use the blocks you have purchased but they make > blocks to do the job you are doing called Halyard Lift Blocks. You don't > need pivoting blocks as you know where the line is coming from and going to > so you can position the halyard lift block right where it needs to be. > > http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=29 > > <http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=29>Allen > > > >

Allen, it turns out that the arrangement does work on the old aluminum masts. Yes, I had them pop out a few times (in many years) when I used aluminum pop rivets. Pretty exciting when it happens. Went to the stainless rivets with a good tool and some lanocote. The force is up and out since the deck turning blocks take the force aft. The lines typically run laterally out to the turning blocks. Through-bolting is definitely better with some decent washers. The old masts have a fairly large flat area on the sides. Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Allen Edwards Sent: Wednesday, December 29, 2010 12:54 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] mounting blocks on deck I would think he would deform the mast if he bolted to it although not having an aluminum mast I can't say for sure. I would not bolt such a block to my wood mast for fear it would pull out. I would also think that lacking through bolting he will pull the mounting off first time he uses it. The forces are going to be aft as well as up the mast. With a mast mounted winch and cleat, the forces are all up the mast. The mast is strong in that direction but not as strong pulling away from it. Be careful. If mounted to the cabin top, it definitely needs through bolting and a good strong backing tied into something structural. Again, the problem is that the force is both up and back so whatever it is tied to needs to be very strong in both directions. Mast plates like this: http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=68 are inherently strong because the mast is holding them down with the force of the halyard adding to the holding power rather than being a force to rip things apart. Allen On Wed, Dec 29, 2010 at 9:39 AM, Husar, Charlie [USA] <hu… [at] bah.com<mailto:hu… [at] bah.com>> wrote: I would suggest that mounting eyes of some sort low on the sides of the mast and attaching the swiveling blocks will permit the halyard/mast line outlets to go in any direction needed - usually to deck turning blocks or deck organizers. Because of the low position of the eyes on the mast, they can be through-bolted for extra strength (assuming the mast is down). If the mast is not down, then tapping screws or pop rivets are a less desirable alternative. Just a thought. I used to use the fixed outlet blocks at the base of the mast, but found the off-angles of feed sometimes caused binding and wear on the lines. On my CAL 25s, one does not want to put any parts on the deck over the deck mast support beam since they cannot be through-bolted. Therefore, my lines run a bit forward to deck organizers. I now use mast plates (got from Steve Seal). I do not mount the turning blocks to the deck so the stresses can stay in the mast. Can send pictures of the options if needed. Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Allen Edwards Sent: Wednesday, December 29, 2010 10:55 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] mounting blocks on deck I'd like to run my halyards to the cockpit and am trying to figure out the best solution to do so. I am planning on running the lines down to blocks, then out to an organizer and then back to the cockpit through line stoppers. The boat is a cal 28 and the companion way is off to one side so I would bring all the lines over the center of the deck. I am not sure what the best method is to attach the blocks at the mast step. The mast pivots on a tabernacle so putting a organizer plate below is not an option: http://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=40&cat1Name=Hardware&familyID=19&familyName=Halyard+Organizer+Plates My suggestion doesn't use the blocks you have purchased but they make blocks to do the job you are doing called Halyard Lift Blocks. You don't need pivoting blocks as you know where the line is coming from and going to so you can position the halyard lift block right where it needs to be. http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=29 <http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=29>Allen

Thanks all for the guidance. I plan on using a base plate mounted under the tabernacle, purchased the garhauer ms-2 mast plate... will see about removing the mast and tabernacle :o Does anyone have a good diagram or picture on how all there lines are routed? I understand- line to mast plate blocks to deck organizer to rope clutches. I guess I'm looking for more specifics, which lines do you route back to the cockpit and why? I've got three mystery halyards, besides the main and jib, one goes up to the spreaders, one half way between spreaders and top of mast, and the third runs to the top of the mast. Can someone shine some light on these :) ? I was also planning on routing the boomvang to the cockpit and it is sounding like people also route reefing lines back? Thanks again, Adam On Wed, Dec 29, 2010 at 10:54 AM, Husar, Charlie [USA] < hu… [at] bah.com> wrote: > > > Allen, it turns out that the arrangement does work on the old aluminum > masts. Yes, I had them pop out a few times (in many years) when I used > aluminum pop rivets. Pretty exciting when it happens. Went to > the stainless rivets with a good tool and some lanocote. The force is up > and out since the deck turning blocks take the force aft. The lines > typically run laterally out to the turning blocks. Through-bolting is > definitely better with some decent washers. The old masts have a fairly > large flat area on the sides. > > Cheers > Charlie > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] *On > Behalf Of *Allen Edwards > *Sent:* Wednesday, December 29, 2010 12:54 PM > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] mounting blocks on deck > > I would think he would deform the mast if he bolted to it although not > having an aluminum mast I can't say for sure. I would not bolt such a block > to my wood mast for fear it would pull out. I would also think that lacking > through bolting he will pull the mounting off first time he uses it. The > forces are going to be aft as well as up the mast. With a mast mounted > winch and cleat, the forces are all up the mast. The mast is strong in that > direction but not as strong pulling away from it. Be careful. If mounted > to the cabin top, it definitely needs through bolting and a good strong > backing tied into something structural. Again, the problem is that the > force is both up and back so whatever it is tied to needs to be very strong > in both directions. Mast plates like this: > http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=68 are inherently strong > because the mast is holding them down with the force of the halyard adding > to the holding power rather than being a force to rip things apart. > > Allen > > > On Wed, Dec 29, 2010 at 9:39 AM, Husar, Charlie [USA] < > hu… [at] bah.com> wrote: > >> >> >> I would suggest that mounting eyes of some sort low on the sides of the >> mast and attaching the swiveling blocks will permit the halyard/mast line >> outlets to go in any direction needed - usually to deck turning blocks or >> deck organizers. Because of the low position of the eyes on the mast, they >> can be through-bolted for extra strength (assuming the mast is down). If >> the mast is not down, then tapping screws or pop rivets are a less desirable >> alternative. Just a thought. >> >> I used to use the fixed outlet blocks at the base of the mast, but found >> the off-angles of feed sometimes caused binding and wear on the lines. On >> my CAL 25s, one does not want to put any parts on the deck over the deck >> mast support beam since they cannot be through-bolted. Therefore, my lines >> run a bit forward to deck organizers. I now use mast plates (got from Steve >> Seal). I do not mount the turning blocks to the deck so the stresses can >> stay in the mast. Can send pictures of the options if needed. >> >> Cheers >> Charlie >> >> ------------------------------ >> *From:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] *On >> Behalf Of *Allen Edwards >> *Sent:* Wednesday, December 29, 2010 10:55 AM >> *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com >> *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] mounting blocks on deck >> >> >>>> I'd like to run my halyards to the cockpit and am trying to figure out >>>> the best solution to do so. I am planning on running the lines down to >>>> blocks, then out to an organizer and then back to the cockpit through line >>>> stoppers. The boat is a cal 28 and the companion way is off to one side so I >>>> would bring all the lines over the center of the deck. >>>> >>>> I am not sure what the best method is to attach the blocks at the mast >>>> step. The mast pivots on a tabernacle so putting a organizer plate below is >>>> not an option: >>>> >>>> http://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=40&cat1Name=Hardware&familyID=19&familyName=Halyard+Organizer+Plates >>>> >>> >>> >> My suggestion doesn't use the blocks you have purchased but they make >> blocks to do the job you are doing called Halyard Lift Blocks. You don't >> need pivoting blocks as you know where the line is coming from and going to >> so you can position the halyard lift block right where it needs to be. >> >> http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=29 >> >> <http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=29>Allen >> >> >> > >

You could also use hose clamps around the mast to secure the padeye. ;-) I feel much better knowing you have actually done it Allen On Dec 29, 2010 11:23 AM, "Husar, Charlie [USA]" <hu… [at] bah.com> wrote: > Allen, it turns out that the arrangement does work on the old aluminum masts. Yes, I had them pop out a few times (in many years) when I used aluminum pop rivets. Pretty exciting when it happens. Went to the stainless rivets with a good tool and some lanocote. The force is up and out since the deck turning blocks take the force aft. The lines typically run laterally out to the turning blocks. Through-bolting is definitely better with some decent washers. The old masts have a fairly large flat area on the sides. > > Cheers > Charlie > > ________________________________ > From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Allen Edwards > Sent: Wednesday, December 29, 2010 12:54 PM > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] mounting blocks on deck > > > > I would think he would deform the mast if he bolted to it although not having an aluminum mast I can't say for sure. I would not bolt such a block to my wood mast for fear it would pull out. I would also think that lacking through bolting he will pull the mounting off first time he uses it. The forces are going to be aft as well as up the mast. With a mast mounted winch and cleat, the forces are all up the mast. The mast is strong in that direction but not as strong pulling away from it. Be careful. If mounted to the cabin top, it definitely needs through bolting and a good strong backing tied into something structural. Again, the problem is that the force is both up and back so whatever it is tied to needs to be very strong in both directions. Mast plates like this: > http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=68 are inherently strong because the mast is holding them down with the force of the halyard adding to the holding power rather than being a force to rip things apart. > > Allen > > > On Wed, Dec 29, 2010 at 9:39 AM, Husar, Charlie [USA] < hu… [at] bah.com<mailto:hu… [at] bah.com>> wrote: > > > I would suggest that mounting eyes of some sort low on the sides of the mast and attaching the swiveling blocks will permit the halyard/mast line outlets to go in any direction needed - usually to deck turning blocks or deck organizers. Because of the low position of the eyes on the mast, they can be through-bolted for extra strength (assuming the mast is down). If the mast is not down, then tapping screws or pop rivets are a less desirable alternative. Just a thought. > > I used to use the fixed outlet blocks at the base of the mast, but found the off-angles of feed sometimes caused binding and wear on the lines. On my CAL 25s, one does not want to put any parts on the deck over the deck mast support beam since they cannot be through-bolted. Therefore, my lines run a bit forward to deck organizers. I now use mast plates (got from Steve Seal). I do not mount the turning blocks to the deck so the stresses can stay in the mast. Can send pictures of the options if needed. > > Cheers > Charlie > > ________________________________ > From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> [mailto: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Allen Edwards > Sent: Wednesday, December 29, 2010 10:55 AM > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] mounting blocks on deck > > > I'd like to run my halyards to the cockpit and am trying to figure out the best solution to do so. I am planning on running the lines down to blocks, then out to an organizer and then back to the cockpit through line stoppers. The boat is a cal 28 and the companion way is off to one side so I would bring all the lines over the center of the deck. > > I am not sure what the best method is to attach the blocks at the mast step. The mast pivots on a tabernacle so putting a organizer plate below is not an option: > http://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=40&cat1Name=Hardware&familyID=19&familyName=Halyard+Organizer+Plates > > > My suggestion doesn't use the blocks you have purchased but they make blocks to do the job you are doing called Halyard Lift Blocks. You don't need pivoting blocks as you know where the line is coming from and going to so you can position the halyard lift block right where it needs to be. > > http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=29 > > <http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=29>Allen > > > > >

Sounds like you have two jib halyards, a topping lift, and a mystery line. Papoose has the same setup. I always assumed the block between the spreaders and the masthead was a second topping lift as she had two spinnaker poles so they would switch poles when gybing. The other possibility is that the upper one is for a staysail of some sort. Allen On Wed, Dec 29, 2010 at 11:56 AM, Adam Thorp <th… [at] gmail.com> wrote: > > > Thanks all for the guidance. > > I plan on using a base plate mounted under the tabernacle, purchased the > garhauer ms-2 mast plate... will see about removing the mast and tabernacle > :o > > Does anyone have a good diagram or picture on how all there lines are > routed? I understand- line to mast plate blocks to deck organizer to rope > clutches. I guess I'm looking for more specifics, which lines do you route > back to the cockpit and why? I've got three mystery halyards, besides the > main and jib, one goes up to the spreaders, one half way between spreaders > and top of mast, and the third runs to the top of the mast. Can someone > shine some light on these :) ? I was also planning on routing the boomvang > to the cockpit and it is sounding like people also route reefing lines back? > > Thanks again, > Adam > > > On Wed, Dec 29, 2010 at 10:54 AM, Husar, Charlie [USA] < > hu… [at] bah.com> wrote: > >> >> >> Allen, it turns out that the arrangement does work on the old aluminum >> masts. Yes, I had them pop out a few times (in many years) when I used >> aluminum pop rivets. Pretty exciting when it happens. Went to >> the stainless rivets with a good tool and some lanocote. The force is up >> and out since the deck turning blocks take the force aft. The lines >> typically run laterally out to the turning blocks. Through-bolting is >> definitely better with some decent washers. The old masts have a fairly >> large flat area on the sides. >> >> Cheers >> Charlie >> >> ------------------------------ >> *From:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] *On >> Behalf Of *Allen Edwards >> *Sent:* Wednesday, December 29, 2010 12:54 PM >> *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com >> *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] mounting blocks on deck >> >> I would think he would deform the mast if he bolted to it although not >> having an aluminum mast I can't say for sure. I would not bolt such a block >> to my wood mast for fear it would pull out. I would also think that lacking >> through bolting he will pull the mounting off first time he uses it. The >> forces are going to be aft as well as up the mast. With a mast mounted >> winch and cleat, the forces are all up the mast. The mast is strong in that >> direction but not as strong pulling away from it. Be careful. If mounted >> to the cabin top, it definitely needs through bolting and a good strong >> backing tied into something structural. Again, the problem is that the >> force is both up and back so whatever it is tied to needs to be very strong >> in both directions. Mast plates like this: >> http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=68 are inherently strong >> because the mast is holding them down with the force of the halyard adding >> to the holding power rather than being a force to rip things apart. >> >> Allen >> >> >> On Wed, Dec 29, 2010 at 9:39 AM, Husar, Charlie [USA] < >> hu… [at] bah.com> wrote: >> >>> >>> >>> I would suggest that mounting eyes of some sort low on the sides of the >>> mast and attaching the swiveling blocks will permit the halyard/mast line >>> outlets to go in any direction needed - usually to deck turning blocks or >>> deck organizers. Because of the low position of the eyes on the mast, they >>> can be through-bolted for extra strength (assuming the mast is down). If >>> the mast is not down, then tapping screws or pop rivets are a less desirable >>> alternative. Just a thought. >>> >>> I used to use the fixed outlet blocks at the base of the mast, but found >>> the off-angles of feed sometimes caused binding and wear on the lines. On >>> my CAL 25s, one does not want to put any parts on the deck over the deck >>> mast support beam since they cannot be through-bolted. Therefore, my lines >>> run a bit forward to deck organizers. I now use mast plates (got from Steve >>> Seal). I do not mount the turning blocks to the deck so the stresses can >>> stay in the mast. Can send pictures of the options if needed. >>> >>> Cheers >>> Charlie >>> >>> ------------------------------ >>> *From:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] *On >>> Behalf Of *Allen Edwards >>> *Sent:* Wednesday, December 29, 2010 10:55 AM >>> *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com >>> *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] mounting blocks on deck >>> >>> >>>>> I'd like to run my halyards to the cockpit and am trying to figure out >>>>> the best solution to do so. I am planning on running the lines down to >>>>> blocks, then out to an organizer and then back to the cockpit through line >>>>> stoppers. The boat is a cal 28 and the companion way is off to one side so I >>>>> would bring all the lines over the center of the deck. >>>>> >>>>> I am not sure what the best method is to attach the blocks at the mast >>>>> step. The mast pivots on a tabernacle so putting a organizer plate below is >>>>> not an option: >>>>> >>>>> http://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=40&cat1Name=Hardware&familyID=19&familyName=Halyard+Organizer+Plates >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>> My suggestion doesn't use the blocks you have purchased but they make >>> blocks to do the job you are doing called Halyard Lift Blocks. You don't >>> need pivoting blocks as you know where the line is coming from and going to >>> so you can position the halyard lift block right where it needs to be. >>> >>> http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=29 >>> >>> <http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=29>Allen >>> >>> >>> >> > >

When in doubt check Wilkie's site: http://www.mariposasailing.com/Rigging.html Good site to book mark...:) /ch