Repairs under way.

Hi All Well I have started working on the repair and outfit list for my Cal 30. I started with the head relocation which includes the partial replacement of the forward cabin bulk head. Both the deck hull joint and the chain plate leaked, which rotted the bulkhead where it was tabbed to the hull. When I got into it I found it was far more rotten than I had ever imagined. The tabbing from the hull to the bulkhead was completely loose. Only the tabbing to the cabin top was intact and only a short section of that. We are very lucky that the first time we took her sailing that the wind was very light. Anything stronger and we could have lost the mast. Someone had repaired it before and did a very poor job of it. Whoever did it did not sand the varnish off the old bulkhead where they glued the doubler to it and it did not stick. They used steel staples and plywood that wasn't made with water proof glue and it came unlamented. They did not even sand the old tabbing off the hull or even completely remove the white paint; they just glassed the new tabbing over it. It looked good but that was about it. Talk about being lucky! At least the chain plate was in good shape, rang clear like a bell when taped. Looks like original material, no crevice corrosion and nice and shiny, (must be 316 L). I finished grinding the old tabbing off today, talk about a mess! I hate that job, I taped up plastic to isolate the area I was grinding on and dust still got all over the boat. I will have to wash the whole inside several times to get rid of it all. I have the new holding tank fitted and installed. Tomorrow I will do the final fitting of the new bulk head and doubler , sand the varnish off the old bulk head and glue it in. I will do the tabbing the following day so I have all day and can take my time and do a good job. I posted pictured in my folder of what I have done so far. Some times its better to be lucky than smart. That's it for now. Dan R

Dan, My hat's off to you. Did you consider using one of them there vibrating saws, like the ones made by Rockwell or .....??Dremel..(the one I own) to peel/scrape/saw off the tabing vs. grinding away the glass? I like the repair you had to deal with, done by Micky Mouse's evil twin. I see that kind of stuff all the time in my solar repair work, that's how I ended up in the field, one of our "installers" used "liquid solder" to solder some 1.5" pipe fittings. That's the glue in a tube with solder powder to make it look like something it isn't. Speaking of Mickey Mouse: I plan on re-glueing the old tabbing back to the hull when I finally get around to it, meanwhile I don't plan on taking my Cal 24 into any pounding seas. How shall I do it? I'm thinking commercial grade contact cement, super glue, and West Systems, combining all three somehow. It will either work or I will create one heck of a mess. Oh yeah, and some 5200 urethane mastic in there to make a real high holy mess. WuHuu! Jerry --- On Sun, 2/20/11, richmondj50 <dv… [at] frontier.com> wrote: From: richmondj50 <dv… [at] frontier.com> Subject: [Cal_Boats] Repairs under way. To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, February 20, 2011, 7:00 PM Hi All Well I have started working on the repair and outfit list for my Cal 30. I started with the head relocation which includes the partial replacement of the forward cabin bulk head. Both the deck hull joint and the chain plate leaked, which rotted the bulkhead where it was tabbed to the hull. When I got into it I found it was far more rotten than I had ever imagined. The tabbing from the hull to the bulkhead was completely loose. Only the tabbing to the cabin top was intact and only a short section of that. We are very lucky that the first time we took her sailing that the wind was very light. Anything stronger and we could have lost the mast. Someone had repaired it before and did a very poor job of it. Whoever did it did not sand the varnish off the old bulkhead where they glued the doubler to it and it did not stick. They used steel staples and plywood that wasn't made with water proof glue and it came unlamented. They did not even sand the old tabbing off the hull or even completely remove the white paint; they just glassed the new tabbing over it. It looked good but that was about it. Talk about being lucky! At least the chain plate was in good shape, rang clear like a bell when taped. Looks like original material, no crevice corrosion and nice and shiny, (must be 316 L). I finished grinding the old tabbing off today, talk about a mess! I hate that job, I taped up plastic to isolate the area I was grinding on and dust still got all over the boat. I will have to wash the whole inside several times to get rid of it all. I have the new holding tank fitted and installed. Tomorrow I will do the final fitting of the new bulk head and doubler , sand the varnish off the old bulk head and glue it in. I will do the tabbing the following day so I have all day and can take my time and do a good job. I posted pictured in my folder of what I have done so far. Some times its better to be lucky than smart. That's it for now. Dan R

> > How shall I do it? I'm thinking commercial grade contact cement, super > glue, and West Systems, combining all three somehow. > Just on the slight chance you are not kidding, just use the West Systems. Allen

Jerry I did use one of them there fancy vibrating type saws, (a Craftsman to be exact) worked like a dream. I posted pictures in my folder, (Cal 1-30 1966), take a look. I hope you rely are joking about re using the tabs (epoxy is hands down the best glue for structural repairs of fiberglass). What did you take out and why? I try to do the best job I can when I do structural repair. The thought of some future owner losing his or her life because of shoddy work I did, is not something I want to live with. I have made enough stupid decisions in my life; I do not need any more bad karma. Besides that she is a good old girl and deserves the best I can do for her. I guess it was lucky that she needed the repair otherwise I would never have known that repair was so badly done and it could have cost me much much more. That said, the more I work on her the more I like her. She is built like a tank and will take me where ever I want to go. She has her faults like no easy bilge access and the prop being aft and above the rudder instead of in front of it so it can direct prop wash for close quarter maneuvering, but I can fix both of those fairly easily. We have a tentative departure date of September of 2012. Heading south till the butter melts. I guess its sometimes better to be lucky than good looking. Dan R --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, Gerald Sobel <sobel_solar@...> wrote: > > > Dan, > My hat's off to you. Did you consider using one of them there vibrating saws, like the ones made by Rockwell or .....??Dremel..(the one I own) to peel/scrape/saw off the tabing vs. grinding away the glass? I like the repair you had to deal with, done by Micky Mouse's evil twin. I see that kind of stuff all the time in my solar repair work, that's how I ended up in the field, one of our "installers" used "liquid solder" to solder some 1.5" pipe fittings. That's the glue in a tube with solder powder to make it look like something it isn't. Speaking of Mickey Mouse: > I plan on re-glueing the old tabbing back to the hull when I finally get around to it, meanwhile I don't plan on taking my Cal 24 into any pounding seas. How shall I do it? I'm thinking commercial grade contact cement, super glue, and West Systems, combining all three somehow. It will either work or I will create one heck of a mess. Oh yeah, and some 5200 urethane mastic in there to make a real high holy mess. > WuHuu! > Jerry > --- On Sun, 2/20/11, richmondj50 <dvrich1@...> wrote: > > From: richmondj50 <dvrich1@...> > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Repairs under way. > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > Date: Sunday, February 20, 2011, 7:00 PM > > > > > > > > Â > > > > > > > > > > Hi All > > Well I have started working on the repair and outfit list for my Cal 30. > > I started with the head relocation which includes the partial replacement of the forward cabin bulk head. Both the deck hull joint and the chain plate leaked, which rotted the bulkhead where it was tabbed to the hull. When I got into it I found it was far more rotten than I had ever imagined. The tabbing from the hull to the bulkhead was completely loose. Only the tabbing to the cabin top was intact and only a short section of that. We are very lucky that the first time we took her sailing that the wind was very light. Anything stronger and we could have lost the mast. Someone had repaired it before and did a very poor job of it. Whoever did it did not sand the varnish off the old bulkhead where they glued the doubler to it and it did not stick. They used steel staples and plywood that wasn't made with water proof glue and it came unlamented. They did not even sand the old tabbing off the hull or even completely remove the white paint; they just > glassed the new tabbing over it. It looked good but that was about it. Talk about being lucky! At least the chain plate was in good shape, rang clear like a bell when taped. Looks like original material, no crevice corrosion and nice and shiny, (must be 316 L). I finished grinding the old tabbing off today, talk about a mess! I hate that job, I taped up plastic to isolate the area I was grinding on and dust still got all over the boat. I will have to wash the whole inside several times to get rid of it all. I have the new holding tank fitted and installed. Tomorrow I will do the final fitting of the new bulk head and doubler , sand the varnish off the old bulk head and glue it in. I will do the tabbing the following day so I have all day and can take my time and do a good job. > > I posted pictured in my folder of what I have done so far. > > Some times its better to be lucky than smart. > > That's it for now. > > Dan R >

Dan, Thanks for yea comments. On the original original "California 24" The three sets of shrouds on each side of the hull are fiberglassed into the hull, so there is no bulkhead situation to worry about there. The Main bulkhead which supports the mast tabs are still intact, altho the fiberglass around the main support beam is cracked just below the mast, has been since I took it sailing for first time, and I think was caused by shrouds tightened piano tight by the P.0. Now that is something that WILL take some grinding down and reglassing to fix proper like. unless I can somehow feather it with my dremel saw. The cracks been there for the last 13 years, but it maybe getting a bit larger. Yikes. The tabs that have come lose are mainly the forward bulkhead aft of the chain locker, and the tabbing holding the port side of the V berth to the hull...which has fractured, but the tabbing is still there and solidly on the hull and plywood. On that side I may just fiberglass over what's there. Jerry --- On Sun, 2/20/11, richmondj50 <dv… [at] frontier.com> wrote: From: richmondj50 <dv… [at] frontier.com> Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: Repairs under way.(Dan) To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, February 20, 2011, 10:21 PM Jerry I did use one of them there fancy vibrating type saws, (a Craftsman to be exact) worked like a dream. I posted pictures in my folder, (Cal 1-30 1966), take a look. I hope you rely are joking about re using the tabs (epoxy is hands down the best glue for structural repairs of fiberglass). What did you take out and why? I try to do the best job I can when I do structural repair. The thought of some future owner losing his or her life because of shoddy work I did, is not something I want to live with. I have made enough stupid decisions in my life; I do not need any more bad karma. Besides that she is a good old girl and deserves the best I can do for her. I guess it was lucky that she needed the repair otherwise I would never have known that repair was so badly done and it could have cost me much much more. That said, the more I work on her the more I like her. She is built like a tank and will take me where ever I want to go. She has her faults like no easy bilge access and the prop being aft and above the rudder instead of in front of it so it can direct prop wash for close quarter maneuvering, but I can fix both of those fairly easily. We have a tentative departure date of September of 2012. Heading south till the butter melts. I guess its sometimes better to be lucky than good looking. Dan R --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, Gerald Sobel <sobel_solar@...> wrote: > > > Dan, > My hat's off to you. Did you consider using one of them there vibrating saws, like the ones made by Rockwell or .....??Dremel..(the one I own) to peel/scrape/saw off the tabing vs. grinding away the glass? I like the repair you had to deal with, done by Micky Mouse's evil twin. I see that kind of stuff all the time in my solar repair work, that's how I ended up in the field, one of our "installers" used "liquid solder" to solder some 1.5" pipe fittings. That's the glue in a tube with solder powder to make it look like something it isn't. Speaking of Mickey Mouse: > I plan on re-glueing the old tabbing back to the hull when I finally get around to it, meanwhile I don't plan on taking my Cal 24 into any pounding seas. How shall I do it? I'm thinking commercial grade contact cement, super glue, and West Systems, combining all three somehow. It will either work or I will create one heck of a mess. Oh yeah, and some 5200 urethane mastic in there to make a real high holy mess. > WuHuu! > Jerry > --- On Sun, 2/20/11, richmondj50 <dvrich1@...> wrote: > > From: richmondj50 <dvrich1@...> > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Repairs under way. > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > Date: Sunday, February 20, 2011, 7:00 PM > > > > > > > > Â > > > > > > > > > > Hi All > > Well I have started working on the repair and outfit list for my Cal 30. > > I started with the head relocation which includes the partial replacement of the forward cabin bulk head. Both the deck hull joint and the chain plate leaked, which rotted the bulkhead where it was tabbed to the hull. When I got into it I found it was far more rotten than I had ever imagined. The tabbing from the hull to the bulkhead was completely loose. Only the tabbing to the cabin top was intact and only a short section of that. We are very lucky that the first time we took her sailing that the wind was very light. Anything stronger and we could have lost the mast. Someone had repaired it before and did a very poor job of it. Whoever did it did not sand the varnish off the old bulkhead where they glued the doubler to it and it did not stick. They used steel staples and plywood that wasn't made with water proof glue and it came unlamented. They did not even sand the old tabbing off the hull or even completely remove the white paint; they just > glassed the new tabbing over it. It looked good but that was about it. Talk about being lucky! At least the chain plate was in good shape, rang clear like a bell when taped. Looks like original material, no crevice corrosion and nice and shiny, (must be 316 L). I finished grinding the old tabbing off today, talk about a mess! I hate that job, I taped up plastic to isolate the area I was grinding on and dust still got all over the boat. I will have to wash the whole inside several times to get rid of it all. I have the new holding tank fitted and installed. Tomorrow I will do the final fitting of the new bulk head and doubler , sand the varnish off the old bulk head and glue it in. I will do the tabbing the following day so I have all day and can take my time and do a good job. > > I posted pictured in my folder of what I have done so far. > > Some times its better to be lucky than smart. > > That's it for now. > > Dan R >

Im not sure about the 30 but you may want to add an inspection of the beam to your list. If you have these issues with the chainplates and you do have a been in there, again not sure, just ask the list, if there, an inspection is warranted. If there is no beam your safe. Best of luck....luck is like a saving jar, you can add to it at any time...:) /ch

/ch She is an old girl, built before the dreaded beam, with a full keel and a cut away forefoot. She has a compression post set on the ballast in the keel. The ones built later had the beam, and fin keel with the rudder on a skeg. Dan R --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, chris123 <chris.herrnberger@...> wrote: > > Im not sure about the 30 but you may want to add an inspection of the > beam to your list. If you have these issues with the chainplates and > you do have a been in there, again not sure, just ask the list, if > there, an inspection is warranted. If there is no beam your safe. > > Best of luck....luck is like a saving jar, you can add to it at any time...:) > > /ch >

Jerry I don't remember if the C 24 had the beem. That could be the root of the cracking. Getting old, my memery just not what it used to be. Other things not working so well eather! Oh well. Dan R --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, Gerald Sobel <sobel_solar@...> wrote: > > Dan, > Thanks for yea comments. On the original original "California 24" The three sets of shrouds on each side of the hull are fiberglassed into the hull, so there is no bulkhead situation to worry about there. The Main bulkhead which supports the mast tabs are still intact, altho the fiberglass around the main support beam is cracked just below the mast, has been since I took it sailing for first time, and I think was caused by shrouds tightened piano tight by the P.0. Now that is something that WILL take some grinding down and reglassing to fix proper like. unless I can somehow feather it with my dremel saw. The cracks been there for the last 13 years, but it maybe getting a bit larger. Yikes. > The tabs that have come lose are mainly the forward bulkhead aft of the chain locker, and the tabbing holding the port side of the V berth to the hull...which has fractured, but the tabbing is still there and solidly on the hull and plywood. On that side I may just fiberglass over what's there. > Jerry > > > > --- On Sun, 2/20/11, richmondj50 <dvrich1@...> wrote: > > From: richmondj50 <dvrich1@...> > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: Repairs under way.(Dan) > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > Date: Sunday, February 20, 2011, 10:21 PM > > > > > > > >  > > > > > > > > > > > > Jerry > > I did use one of them there fancy vibrating type saws, (a Craftsman to be exact) worked like a dream. I posted pictures in my folder, (Cal 1-30 1966), take a look. > > I hope you rely are joking about re using the tabs (epoxy is hands down the best glue for structural repairs of fiberglass). What did you take out and why? > > I try to do the best job I can when I do structural repair. The thought of some future owner losing his or her life because of shoddy work I did, is not something I want to live with. I have made enough stupid decisions in my life; I do not need any more bad karma. Besides that she is a good old girl and deserves the best I can do for her. I guess it was lucky that she needed the repair otherwise I would never have known that repair was so badly done and it could have cost me much much more. That said, the more I work on her the more I like her. She is built like a tank and will take me where ever I want to go. She has her faults like no easy bilge access and the prop being aft and above the rudder instead of in front of it so it can direct prop wash for close quarter maneuvering, but I can fix both of those fairly easily. We have a tentative departure date of September of 2012. Heading south till the butter melts. I guess its sometimes better to > be lucky than good looking. > > Dan R > > > > --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, Gerald Sobel <sobel_solar@> wrote: > > > > > > > > > Dan, > > > My hat's off to you. Did you consider using one of them there vibrating saws, like the ones made by Rockwell or .....??Dremel..(the one I own) to peel/scrape/saw off the tabing vs. grinding away the glass? I like the repair you had to deal with, done by Micky Mouse's evil twin. I see that kind of stuff all the time in my solar repair work, that's how I ended up in the field, one of our "installers" used "liquid solder" to solder some 1.5" pipe fittings. That's the glue in a tube with solder powder to make it look like something it isn't. Speaking of Mickey Mouse: > > > I plan on re-glueing the old tabbing back to the hull when I finally get around to it, meanwhile I don't plan on taking my Cal 24 into any pounding seas. How shall I do it? I'm thinking commercial grade contact cement, super glue, and West Systems, combining all three somehow. It will either work or I will create one heck of a mess. Oh yeah, and some 5200 urethane mastic in there to make a real high holy mess. > > > WuHuu! > > > Jerry > > > --- On Sun, 2/20/11, richmondj50 <dvrich1@> wrote: > > > > > > From: richmondj50 <dvrich1@> > > > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Repairs under way. > > > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > > > Date: Sunday, February 20, 2011, 7:00 PM > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >  > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Hi All > > > > > > Well I have started working on the repair and outfit list for my Cal 30. > > > > > > I started with the head relocation which includes the partial replacement of the forward cabin bulk head. Both the deck hull joint and the chain plate leaked, which rotted the bulkhead where it was tabbed to the hull. When I got into it I found it was far more rotten than I had ever imagined. The tabbing from the hull to the bulkhead was completely loose. Only the tabbing to the cabin top was intact and only a short section of that. We are very lucky that the first time we took her sailing that the wind was very light. Anything stronger and we could have lost the mast. Someone had repaired it before and did a very poor job of it. Whoever did it did not sand the varnish off the old bulkhead where they glued the doubler to it and it did not stick. They used steel staples and plywood that wasn't made with water proof glue and it came unlamented. They did not even sand the old tabbing off the hull or even completely remove the white paint; they just > > > glassed the new tabbing over it. It looked good but that was about it. Talk about being lucky! At least the chain plate was in good shape, rang clear like a bell when taped. Looks like original material, no crevice corrosion and nice and shiny, (must be 316 L). I finished grinding the old tabbing off today, talk about a mess! I hate that job, I taped up plastic to isolate the area I was grinding on and dust still got all over the boat. I will have to wash the whole inside several times to get rid of it all. I have the new holding tank fitted and installed. Tomorrow I will do the final fitting of the new bulk head and doubler , sand the varnish off the old bulk head and glue it in. I will do the tabbing the following day so I have all day and can take my time and do a good job. > > > > > > I posted pictured in my folder of what I have done so far. > > > > > > Some times its better to be lucky than smart. > > > > > > That's it for now. > > > > > > Dan R > > > >

Thanks for the clarification. I was looking at your pics on line, nice boat btw, and thought she probably doesn't have one, based on what you pulled apart as it would have been visible. Nice work. /ch

Lots of Cals don't have the 'dreaded beem', as I said, my shrouds waz glassed into the hull, so the only danger is roof (overhead/deck) and roof(overhead/deck) beam rot. I've seen one old Cal 24 whose doghouse overhead beam(gottabeanauticaltermforthat) collapsed. In fact, I bought the sails off of her, would you believe 1984 vintage Norlams??, before the Sheriff Goons towed her away and scrapped her. The owner had left her on the hook outside the North end of the Jetty, which is not an anchorage. He'd buy old boats on lien sales and find docks for them, then rent them out on a 'rent to own basis', and he had 30 boats with the same CF number. The State will never catch him now, he's hiding out in the here after. And the Norlam Genny? After a few sails, the mylar started splitting & tearing off the polyester cloth scrim. I kept spraying contact cement on it and gluing it back together, taping the tears. Was a great sail if not for that. In fact, I was going to use it as a painters drop cloth and didn't have the heart to do it. Someday I'm going to glue/tape it back together again, and go sailing with it. Good thing they don't make laminate sails like they used to! My latest North lam (on my boat its a 134%) sail I picked up for $100 from a guy who races a Santana 20 on the national level is holding together just fine. The newer they are, the better they were made. Definately worth the price if you are racing, and worth the handicap ding if you are a cruiser racer. Jerry --- On Mon, 2/21/11, richmondj50 <dv… [at] frontier.com> wrote: From: richmondj50 <dv… [at] frontier.com> Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: Repairs under way.(Dan) To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, February 21, 2011, 7:46 AM Jerry I don't remember if the C 24 had the beem. That could be the root of the cracking. Getting old, my memery just not what it used to be. Other things not working so well eather! Oh well. Dan R --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, Gerald Sobel <sobel_solar@...> wrote: > > Dan, > Thanks for yea comments. On the original original "California 24" The three sets of shrouds on each side of the hull are fiberglassed into the hull, so there is no bulkhead situation to worry about there. The Main bulkhead which supports the mast tabs are still intact, altho the fiberglass around the main support beam is cracked just below the mast, has been since I took it sailing for first time, and I think was caused by shrouds tightened piano tight by the P.0. Now that is something that WILL take some grinding down and reglassing to fix proper like. unless I can somehow feather it with my dremel saw. The cracks been there for the last 13 years, but it maybe getting a bit larger. Yikes. > The tabs that have come lose are mainly the forward bulkhead aft of the chain locker, and the tabbing holding the port side of the V berth to the hull...which has fractured, but the tabbing is still there and solidly on the hull and plywood. On that side I may just fiberglass over what's there. > Jerry > > > > --- On Sun, 2/20/11, richmondj50 <dvrich1@...> wrote: > > From: richmondj50 <dvrich1@...> > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: Repairs under way.(Dan) > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > Date: Sunday, February 20, 2011, 10:21 PM > > > > > > > >  > > > > > > > > > > > > Jerry > > I did use one of them there fancy vibrating type saws, (a Craftsman to be exact) worked like a dream. I posted pictures in my folder, (Cal 1-30 1966), take a look. > > I hope you rely are joking about re using the tabs (epoxy is hands down the best glue for structural repairs of fiberglass). What did you take out and why? > > I try to do the best job I can when I do structural repair. The thought of some future owner losing his or her life because of shoddy work I did, is not something I want to live with. I have made enough stupid decisions in my life; I do not need any more bad karma. Besides that she is a good old girl and deserves the best I can do for her. I guess it was lucky that she needed the repair otherwise I would never have known that repair was so badly done and it could have cost me much much more. That said, the more I work on her the more I like her. She is built like a tank and will take me where ever I want to go. She has her faults like no easy bilge access and the prop being aft and above the rudder instead of in front of it so it can direct prop wash for close quarter maneuvering, but I can fix both of those fairly easily. We have a tentative departure date of September of 2012. Heading south till the butter melts. I guess its sometimes better to > be lucky than good looking. > > Dan R > > > > --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, Gerald Sobel <sobel_solar@> wrote: > > > > > > > > > Dan, > > > My hat's off to you. Did you consider using one of them there vibrating saws, like the ones made by Rockwell or .....??Dremel..(the one I own) to peel/scrape/saw off the tabing vs. grinding away the glass? I like the repair you had to deal with, done by Micky Mouse's evil twin. I see that kind of stuff all the time in my solar repair work, that's how I ended up in the field, one of our "installers" used "liquid solder" to solder some 1.5" pipe fittings. That's the glue in a tube with solder powder to make it look like something it isn't. Speaking of Mickey Mouse: > > > I plan on re-glueing the old tabbing back to the hull when I finally get around to it, meanwhile I don't plan on taking my Cal 24 into any pounding seas. How shall I do it? I'm thinking commercial grade contact cement, super glue, and West Systems, combining all three somehow. It will either work or I will create one heck of a mess. Oh yeah, and some 5200 urethane mastic in there to make a real high holy mess. > > > WuHuu! > > > Jerry > > > --- On Sun, 2/20/11, richmondj50 <dvrich1@> wrote: > > > > > > From: richmondj50 <dvrich1@> > > > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Repairs under way. > > > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > > > Date: Sunday, February 20, 2011, 7:00 PM > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >  > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Hi All > > > > > > Well I have started working on the repair and outfit list for my Cal 30. > > > > > > I started with the head relocation which includes the partial replacement of the forward cabin bulk head. Both the deck hull joint and the chain plate leaked, which rotted the bulkhead where it was tabbed to the hull. When I got into it I found it was far more rotten than I had ever imagined. The tabbing from the hull to the bulkhead was completely loose. Only the tabbing to the cabin top was intact and only a short section of that. We are very lucky that the first time we took her sailing that the wind was very light. Anything stronger and we could have lost the mast. Someone had repaired it before and did a very poor job of it. Whoever did it did not sand the varnish off the old bulkhead where they glued the doubler to it and it did not stick. They used steel staples and plywood that wasn't made with water proof glue and it came unlamented. They did not even sand the old tabbing off the hull or even completely remove the white paint; they just > > > glassed the new tabbing over it. It looked good but that was about it. Talk about being lucky! At least the chain plate was in good shape, rang clear like a bell when taped. Looks like original material, no crevice corrosion and nice and shiny, (must be 316 L). I finished grinding the old tabbing off today, talk about a mess! I hate that job, I taped up plastic to isolate the area I was grinding on and dust still got all over the boat. I will have to wash the whole inside several times to get rid of it all. I have the new holding tank fitted and installed. Tomorrow I will do the final fitting of the new bulk head and doubler , sand the varnish off the old bulk head and glue it in. I will do the tabbing the following day so I have all day and can take my time and do a good job. > > > > > > I posted pictured in my folder of what I have done so far. > > > > > > Some times its better to be lucky than smart. > > > > > > That's it for now. > > > > > > Dan R > > > >