9 messages2011-03-25 13:45 through 2011-03-27 02:08 UTC
"New" Cal 28-2 punchlist
Will Fortier2011-03-25 13:45
Hello,
I just bought a '86 Cal 28-2 and am putting together a punch list of priority tasks. Luckily, it came with many of the original manuals (which I'd be happy to scan for anyone who needs something specific).
So far, my first goals are:
1. engine oil change
2. fuel filter change and drain the fuel tank (to see if these steps help with hard starting and initial rough running)
3. zinc anode replacement (does anyone know where and how many there are ??)
Are there any suggestions about other high priority items that shouldn't be put off?? Thanks in advance for any help!
RE: [Cal_Boats] "New" Cal 28-2 punchlist
Crouch, Dyer2011-03-25 14:23 UTC
On the zincs -
For the external, get a couple collar zincs for your shaft. If you don't
know the size, you can measure the diameter from the inside. If you pay
a diver, they typically stock a few sizes too, but I do my own hull &
zincs.
On the internal, your engine manual should show you where they are if
you have a raw water heat exchanger (which is common). Or follow your
coolant hoses to a (probably can shaped) small tank and search for the
zinc plug along the bottom of it. *Order one* specifically for your
engine & measure it, save it. Then you can buy cheaper replacements from
WestMarine & other places and cut them down to what they should be for
your engine. If you want to change your coolant zincs frequently, this
will save some $$. You *probably* want to shut your through-hole on the
intake before unscrewing your engine zinc.
Check, or just order a replacement for your water pump impellor (pump)
if you have one for the cooling system. (if you have one) Check the
coolant too or just change.
Get a diesel book (or use your manual) and look up the maint schedule
and do whatever it suggests for 250 hours, especially if you don't know
what the last maint was. Nigel Calder has a great book "Marine Diesel
Engines" that I use as a cross reference for my manuals.
I got a 1969 Cal 2-30 a couple years ago & started out with the 250 hour
maint and paid a mechanic $100 to look over my work. Was worth the peace
of mind & he gave me a few tips. Engine is running fine, I got to know
it & saved a few bucks too.
Good luck -
Dyer
Honu, 1960 Cal 2-30
SF Bay
From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Will Fortier
Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 6:45 AM
To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Cal_Boats] "New" Cal 28-2 punchlist
Hello,
I just bought a '86 Cal 28-2 and am putting together a punch list of
priority tasks. Luckily, it came with many of the original manuals
(which I'd be happy to scan for anyone who needs something specific).
So far, my first goals are:
1. engine oil change
2. fuel filter change and drain the fuel tank (to see if these steps
help with hard starting and initial rough running)
3. zinc anode replacement (does anyone know where and how many there are
??)
Are there any suggestions about other high priority items that shouldn't
be put off?? Thanks in advance for any help!
Specific engine? [ was [Cal_Boats] "New" Cal 28-2 punchlist
Joe DeMers2011-03-25 14:36 UTC
What specific engine are we discussing?
*Joe DeMers - owner*
Sound Marine Diesel LLC
SoundMarineDiesel.com <http://www.soundmarinediesel.com/>
*phone & fax (860) 666-2184*
On 3/25/2011 10:23 AM, Crouch, Dyer wrote:
>
>
> On the zincs -
> For the external, get a couple collar zincs for your shaft. If you
> don't know the size, you can measure the diameter from the inside. If
> you pay a diver, they typically stock a few sizes too, but I do my own
> hull & zincs.
> On the internal, your engine manual should show you where they are if
> you have a raw water heat exchanger (which is common). Or follow your
> coolant hoses to a (probably can shaped) small tank and search for the
> zinc plug along the bottom of it. *Order one* specifically for your
> engine & measure it, save it. Then you can buy cheaper replacements
> from WestMarine & other places and cut them down to what they should
> be for your engine. If you want to change your coolant zincs
> frequently, this will save some $$. You *probably* want to shut your
> through-hole on the intake before unscrewing your engine zinc.
> Check, or just order a replacement for your water pump impellor (pump)
> if you have one for the cooling system. (if you have one) Check the
> coolant too or just change.
> Get a diesel book (or use your manual) and look up the maint schedule
> and do whatever it suggests for 250 hours, especially if you don't
> know what the last maint was. Nigel Calder has a great book "Marine
> Diesel Engines" that I use as a cross reference for my manuals.
> I got a 1969 Cal 2-30 a couple years ago & started out with the 250
> hour maint and paid a mechanic $100 to look over my work. Was worth
> the peace of mind & he gave me a few tips. Engine is running fine, I
> got to know it & saved a few bucks too.
> Good luck -
> Dyer
> Honu, 1960 Cal 2-30
> SF Bay
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com]
> *On Behalf Of *Will Fortier
> *Sent:* Friday, March 25, 2011 6:45 AM
> *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com
> *Subject:* [Cal_Boats] "New" Cal 28-2 punchlist
>
> Hello,
> I just bought a '86 Cal 28-2 and am putting together a punch list of
> priority tasks. Luckily, it came with many of the original manuals
> (which I'd be happy to scan for anyone who needs something specific).
> So far, my first goals are:
> 1. engine oil change
> 2. fuel filter change and drain the fuel tank (to see if these steps
> help with hard starting and initial rough running)
> 3. zinc anode replacement (does anyone know where and how many there
> are ??)
>
> Are there any suggestions about other high priority items that
> shouldn't be put off?? Thanks in advance for any help!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 9.0.894 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3528 - Release Date: 03/25/11 03:34:00
>
--
*Joe DeMers - owner*
Sound Marine Diesel LLC
SoundMarineDiesel.com <http://www.soundmarinediesel.com/>
*phone & fax (860) 666-2184*
RE: Specific engine? [ was [Cal_Boats] "New" Cal 28-2 punchlist
Crouch, Dyer2011-03-25 14:46 UTC
Guess I jumped the gun. I was assuming something like a Universal diesel
which is a common replacement for the old atomic gas engines these
frequently came with.
Dyer
From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Joe DeMers
Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 7:37 AM
To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com
Subject: Specific engine? [ was [Cal_Boats] "New" Cal 28-2 punchlist
What specific engine are we discussing?
Joe DeMers - owner
Sound Marine Diesel LLC
SoundMarineDiesel.com <http://www.soundmarinediesel.com/>
phone & fax (860) 666-2184
On 3/25/2011 10:23 AM, Crouch, Dyer wrote:
On the zincs -
For the external, get a couple collar zincs for your shaft. If
you don't know the size, you can measure the diameter from the inside.
If you pay a diver, they typically stock a few sizes too, but I do my
own hull & zincs.
On the internal, your engine manual should show you where they
are if you have a raw water heat exchanger (which is common). Or follow
your coolant hoses to a (probably can shaped) small tank and search for
the zinc plug along the bottom of it. *Order one* specifically for your
engine & measure it, save it. Then you can buy cheaper replacements from
WestMarine & other places and cut them down to what they should be for
your engine. If you want to change your coolant zincs frequently, this
will save some $$. You *probably* want to shut your through-hole on the
intake before unscrewing your engine zinc.
Check, or just order a replacement for your water pump impellor
(pump) if you have one for the cooling system. (if you have one) Check
the coolant too or just change.
Get a diesel book (or use your manual) and look up the maint
schedule and do whatever it suggests for 250 hours, especially if you
don't know what the last maint was. Nigel Calder has a great book
"Marine Diesel Engines" that I use as a cross reference for my manuals.
I got a 1969 Cal 2-30 a couple years ago & started out with the
250 hour maint and paid a mechanic $100 to look over my work. Was worth
the peace of mind & he gave me a few tips. Engine is running fine, I got
to know it & saved a few bucks too.
Good luck -
Dyer
Honu, 1960 Cal 2-30
SF Bay
From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com
[mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Will Fortier
Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 6:45 AM
To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Cal_Boats] "New" Cal 28-2 punchlist
Hello,
I just bought a '86 Cal 28-2 and am putting together a punch
list of priority tasks. Luckily, it came with many of the original
manuals (which I'd be happy to scan for anyone who needs something
specific).
So far, my first goals are:
1. engine oil change
2. fuel filter change and drain the fuel tank (to see if these
steps help with hard starting and initial rough running)
3. zinc anode replacement (does anyone know where and how many
there are ??)
Are there any suggestions about other high priority items that
shouldn't be put off?? Thanks in advance for any help!
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.894 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3528 - Release Date:
03/25/11 03:34:00
--
Joe DeMers - owner
Sound Marine Diesel LLC
SoundMarineDiesel.com <http://www.soundmarinediesel.com/>
phone & fax (860) 666-2184
Re: Specific engine? [ was [Cal_Boats] "New" Cal 28-2 punchlist
Jake Tanley2011-03-25 15:16 UTC
Unless it's been re-powered, the engine's a 13.5HP Westerbeke 2 cylinder (raw
water cooled). In '88, Cal moved to an 18HP Yanmar.
Will, we have an '87. We looked at about 7 different Cal 28-2's before finding
ours. I'm sure you've had it surveyed, but pay particular attention to the
keel/hull joint. In addition, the steering quadrant and cables were replaced on
about half of the boats we looked at. Maybe a sign of the boat's age or perhaps
something more.
There is an anode on the heat exchanger (facing aft towards the center line).
Congratulations. They're great boats and hope you enjoy it.
From: Joe DeMers <je… [at] mindspring.com>
To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, March 25, 2011 10:36:57 AM
Subject: Specific engine? [ was [Cal_Boats] "New" Cal 28-2 punchlist
What specific engine are we discussing?
Joe DeMers - owner
Sound Marine Diesel LLCSoundMarineDiesel.com
phone & fax (860) 666-2184
On 3/25/2011 10:23 AM, Crouch, Dyer wrote:
On the zincs -
>
>For the external, get a couple collar zincs for your shaft. If you
>don't know the size, you can measure the diameter from the inside.
>If you pay a diver, they typically stock a few sizes too, but I do
>my own hull & zincs.
>
>On the internal, your engine manual should show you where they are
>if you have a raw water heat exchanger (which is common). Or follow
>your coolant hoses to a (probably can shaped) small tank and
>search for the zinc plug along the bottom of it. *Order one*
>specifically for your engine & measure it, save it. Then you can buy
>cheaper replacements from WestMarine & other places and cut them
>down to what they should be for your engine. If you want to change
>your coolant zincs frequently, this will save some $$. You
>*probably* want to shut your through-hole on the intake before
>unscrewing your engine zinc.
>
>Check, or just order a replacement for your water pump impellor
>(pump) if you have one for the cooling system. (if you have one)
>Check the coolant too or just change.
>
>Get a diesel book (or use your manual) and look up the maint
>schedule and do whatever it suggests for 250 hours, especially if
>you don't know what the last maint was. Nigel Calder has a great
>book "Marine Diesel Engines" that I use as a cross reference for
>my manuals.
>
>I got a 1969 Cal 2-30 a couple years ago & started out with the 250
>hour maint and paid a mechanic $100 to look over my work. Was worth
>the peace of mind & he gave me a few tips. Engine is running
>fine, I got to know it & saved a few bucks too.
>
>Good luck -
> Dyer
>Honu, 1960 Cal 2-30
>SF Bay
>
>
>
>
From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Will Fortier
>Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 6:45 AM
>To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [Cal_Boats] "New" Cal 28-2 punchlist
>
>
>Hello,
>I just bought a '86 Cal 28-2 and am putting together a punch list of
>priority tasks. Luckily, it came with many of the original manuals
>(which I'd be happy to scan for anyone who needs something specific).
>So far, my first goals are:
>1. engine oil change
>2. fuel filter change and drain the fuel tank (to see if these steps
>help with hard starting and initial rough running)
>3. zinc anode replacement (does anyone know where and how many there
>are ??)
>
>Are there any suggestions about other high priority items that
>shouldn't be put off?? Thanks in advance for any help!
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>Version: 9.0.894 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3528 - Release Date: 03/25/11
>03:34:00
>
>
--
Joe DeMers - owner
Sound Marine Diesel LLCSoundMarineDiesel.com
phone & fax (860) 666-2184
Re: Specific engine? [ was [Cal_Boats] "New" Cal 28-2 punchlist
Will Fortier2011-03-25 18:11 UTC
It's a Westerbeke 13. I understand that the starting problems could potentially
be compression, but I'm hoping that cleaning up the fuel system does the trick.
From: Joe DeMers <je… [at] mindspring.com>
To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, March 25, 2011 10:36:57 AM
Subject: Specific engine? [ was [Cal_Boats] "New" Cal 28-2 punchlist
What specific engine are we discussing?
Joe DeMers - owner
Sound Marine Diesel LLCSoundMarineDiesel.com
phone & fax (860) 666-2184
On 3/25/2011 10:23 AM, Crouch, Dyer wrote:
On the zincs -
>
>For the external, get a couple collar zincs for your shaft. If you
>don't know the size, you can measure the diameter from the inside.
>If you pay a diver, they typically stock a few sizes too, but I do
>my own hull & zincs.
>
>On the internal, your engine manual should show you where they are
>if you have a raw water heat exchanger (which is common). Or follow
>your coolant hoses to a (probably can shaped) small tank and
>search for the zinc plug along the bottom of it. *Order one*
>specifically for your engine & measure it, save it. Then you can buy
>cheaper replacements from WestMarine & other places and cut them
>down to what they should be for your engine. If you want to change
>your coolant zincs frequently, this will save some $$. You
>*probably* want to shut your through-hole on the intake before
>unscrewing your engine zinc.
>
>Check, or just order a replacement for your water pump impellor
>(pump) if you have one for the cooling system. (if you have one)
>Check the coolant too or just change.
>
>Get a diesel book (or use your manual) and look up the maint
>schedule and do whatever it suggests for 250 hours, especially if
>you don't know what the last maint was. Nigel Calder has a great
>book "Marine Diesel Engines" that I use as a cross reference for
>my manuals.
>
>I got a 1969 Cal 2-30 a couple years ago & started out with the 250
>hour maint and paid a mechanic $100 to look over my work. Was worth
>the peace of mind & he gave me a few tips. Engine is running
>fine, I got to know it & saved a few bucks too.
>
>Good luck -
> Dyer
>Honu, 1960 Cal 2-30
>SF Bay
>
>
>
>
From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Will Fortier
>Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 6:45 AM
>To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [Cal_Boats] "New" Cal 28-2 punchlist
>
>
>Hello,
>I just bought a '86 Cal 28-2 and am putting together a punch list of
>priority tasks. Luckily, it came with many of the original manuals
>(which I'd be happy to scan for anyone who needs something specific).
>So far, my first goals are:
>1. engine oil change
>2. fuel filter change and drain the fuel tank (to see if these steps
>help with hard starting and initial rough running)
>3. zinc anode replacement (does anyone know where and how many there
>are ??)
>
>Are there any suggestions about other high priority items that
>shouldn't be put off?? Thanks in advance for any help!
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>Version: 9.0.894 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3528 - Release Date: 03/25/11
>03:34:00
>
--
Joe DeMers - owner
Sound Marine Diesel LLCSoundMarineDiesel.com
phone & fax (860) 666-2184
Re: [Cal_Boats] "New" Cal 28-2 punchlist
Will Fortier2011-03-25 18:12 UTC
Some great ideas, thanks! I've found most of the filters and parts online and
will be ordering them today.
From: "Crouch, Dyer" <dx… [at] pge.com>
To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, March 25, 2011 10:23:05 AM
Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] "New" Cal 28-2 punchlist
On the zincs -
For the external, get a couple collar zincs for your shaft. If you don't know
the size, you can measure the diameter from the inside. If you pay a diver,
they typically stock a few sizes too, but I do my own hull & zincs.
On the internal, your engine manual should show you where they are if you have
a raw water heat exchanger (which is common). Or follow your coolant hoses to a
(probably can shaped) small tank and search for the zinc plug along the bottom
of it. *Order one* specifically for your engine & measure it, save it. Then you
can buy cheaper replacements from WestMarine & other places and cut them down
to what they should be for your engine. If you want to change your coolant
zincs frequently, this will save some $$. You *probably* want to shut your
through-hole on the intake before unscrewing your engine zinc.
Check, or just order a replacement for your water pump impellor (pump) if you
have one for the cooling system. (if you have one) Check the coolant too or
just change.
Get a diesel book (or use your manual) and look up the maint schedule and do
whatever it suggests for 250 hours, especially if you don't know what the last
maint was. Nigel Calder has a great book "Marine Diesel Engines" that I use as
a cross reference for my manuals.
I got a 1969 Cal 2-30 a couple years ago & started out with the 250 hour maint
and paid a mechanic $100 to look over my work. Was worth the peace of mind & he
gave me a few tips. Engine is running fine, I got to know it & saved a few
bucks too.
Good luck -
Dyer
Honu, 1960 Cal 2-30
SF Bay
From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of Will Fortier
Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 6:45 AM
To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Cal_Boats] "New" Cal 28-2 punchlist
Hello,
I just bought a '86 Cal 28-2 and am putting together a punch list of priority
tasks. Luckily, it came with many of the original manuals (which I'd be happy
to scan for anyone who needs something specific).
So far, my first goals are:
1. engine oil change
2. fuel filter change and drain the fuel tank (to see if these steps help with
hard starting and initial rough running)
3. zinc anode replacement (does anyone know where and how many there are ??)
Are there any suggestions about other high priority items that shouldn't be put
off?? Thanks in advance for any help!
RE: [Cal_Boats] "New" Cal 28-2 punchlist
john raxter2011-03-26 02:38 UTC
Will,
Your new (to you) Cal should have a yanmar diesel. These were the
predominate engine in these 2nd generation Cal boats.
Unless you are confident that the engine was recently serviced, I would
recommend a Yanmar mechanic give you a drive train survey. Yanmar have a
good track record, although this vintage may have some inherent problems
that were fixed in later year models. The transmission linkage may allow
some slippage in the transmission due to detents on the shift linkage.
Oil changes are easily accomplished using a drill type pump by running the
pickup tube down the dipstick tube. The side mount filter may be a little
messy, and oil absorbent rags should help from filling the engine bilge with
oil.
Diesels are very finicky about clean fuel, change the primary filters and
secondary filters to avoid problems with algae growth in your tank due to
contaminated fuel. Most engines of this model use the racor primary filters
and are not setup for cheaper canister type filters.
On my 87 cal 33 we added a fuel pump inline before the primary filter. This
will assist in refilling and purging the fuel through the primary. The pump
on the racor is usually installed where it is difficult to utilize as
designed. The bleed screw on the engine filter has a copper washer that
will leak unless replaced on a regular basis (every few filter changes)
Most of the Yanmar engines do not have any engine mounted zincs. Someone
already recommended checking and changing the prop shaft zincs, and fresh
water pump impeller. The impeller is also a yanmar part, I do not know if
aftermarket parts area available.
Have a mechanic check the exhaust riser. The fresh water cooling injects
water into the elbow. Rust blockage and internal rust may cause exhaust
leaks. I think the recommended life expectancy is less than 10 years.
Two of the engine mounts are under the potential leaks on the engines. One
near the fuel filter and the other near the oil filter. Petroleum product
will deteriorate the rubber mounts, causing alignment problems. The
recommended change period for engine mounts is 5 years.
If you do not have a competent Yanmar service yard near you, part are
available on-line from:
http://shop.torresen.com/marine_diesel_direct/Yanmar/. Part numbers change
frequently, knowing the exact model of your yanmar engine will help
identify the current part numbers.
Yanmar is very protective of their service centers, so don't expect big
savings by buying on-line. With shipping, you will usually pay about the
same as a local service center for the parts needed. Support your local
distributor, and take advantage of any "diesel service" classes offered.
Rust on the alternator and drive pulleys may cause premature wear of the
drive belts. Keep spares on hand while cruising, and polish or remove the
rust to help the belts last.
Most of the maintenance is easily accomplished with standard tools a home
owner may have (filter wrenches, metric tools, and a good bit of patience).
Unlike automobile maintenance, a little oil spillage is easily spread
throughout the cabin. Imagine working on your car on the kitchen table in
your home.
Since the engine is used to get you off the dock and out the channel where
you can raise the sails , you will put very few hours on your engine. Plan
on changing the oil prior to winter layup or an extended time between usage.
Diesel oil collects contaminates and get very acidic as the oil ages. I try
to change ours annually and probably have less than 50 hours on the engine
during a "season"
The 28 is the "little sister" to our Cal 33. I have never heard any
complaints from 28-2 owners and the boat should be a joy to sail. I hope
you enjoy your new boat as much as we have ours!
Tymll
john
From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of Will Fortier
Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 9:45 AM
To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Cal_Boats] "New" Cal 28-2 punchlist
Hello,
I just bought a '86 Cal 28-2 and am putting together a punch list of
priority tasks. Luckily, it came with many of the original manuals (which
I'd be happy to scan for anyone who needs something specific).
So far, my first goals are:
1. engine oil change
2. fuel filter change and drain the fuel tank (to see if these steps help
with hard starting and initial rough running)
3. zinc anode replacement (does anyone know where and how many there are ??)
Are there any suggestions about other high priority items that shouldn't be
put off?? Thanks in advance for any help!
Re: [Cal_Boats] "New" Cal 28-2 punchlist
Will Fortier2011-03-27 02:08 UTC
John,
Thanks for the detailed reply. It turns out I have a Westerbeke 13, but many of
your ideas are still worth applying. I have ordered a full set of new filters,
zincs, etc. and will take a close look at the problem areas you and others have
suggested. I appreciate all the great info!
Will
From: john raxter <jr… [at] triad.rr.com>
To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, March 25, 2011 10:38:39 PM
Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] "New" Cal 28-2 punchlist
Will,
Your new (to you) Cal should have a yanmar diesel. These were the predominate
engine in these 2nd generation Cal boats.
Unless you are confident that the engine was recently serviced, I would
recommend a Yanmar mechanic give you a drive train survey. Yanmar have a good
track record, although this vintage may have some inherent problems that were
fixed in later year models. The transmission linkage may allow some slippage in
the transmission due to detents on the shift linkage.
Oil changes are easily accomplished using a drill type pump by running the
pickup tube down the dipstick tube. The side mount filter may be a little
messy, and oil absorbent rags should help from filling the engine bilge with
oil.
Diesels are very finicky about clean fuel, change the primary filters and
secondary filters to avoid problems with algae growth in your tank due to
contaminated fuel. Most engines of this model use the racor primary filters and
are not setup for cheaper canister type filters.
On my 87 cal 33 we added a fuel pump inline before the primary filter. This
will assist in refilling and purging the fuel through the primary. The pump on
the racor is usually installed where it is difficult to utilize as designed.
The bleed screw on the engine filter has a copper washer that will leak unless
replaced on a regular basis (every few filter changes)
Most of the Yanmar engines do not have any engine mounted zincs. Someone
already recommended checking and changing the prop shaft zincs, and fresh water
pump impeller. The impeller is also a yanmar part, I do not know if aftermarket
parts area available.
Have a mechanic check the exhaust riser. The fresh water cooling injects water
into the elbow. Rust blockage and internal rust may cause exhaust leaks. I
think the recommended life expectancy is less than 10 years.
Two of the engine mounts are under the potential leaks on the engines. One near
the fuel filter and the other near the oil filter. Petroleum product will
deteriorate the rubber mounts, causing alignment problems. The recommended
change period for engine mounts is 5 years.
If you do not have a competent Yanmar service yard near you, part are available
on-line from: http://shop.torresen.com/marine_diesel_direct/Yanmar/. Part
numbers change frequently, knowing the exact model of your yanmar engine will
help identify the current part numbers.
Yanmar is very protective of their service centers, so don’t expect big savings
by buying on-line. With shipping, you will usually pay about the same as a
local service center for the parts needed. Support your local distributor, and
take advantage of any “diesel service” classes offered.
Rust on the alternator and drive pulleys may cause premature wear of the drive
belts. Keep spares on hand while cruising, and polish or remove the rust to
help the belts last.
Most of the maintenance is easily accomplished with standard tools a home owner
may have (filter wrenches, metric tools, and a good bit of patience). Unlike
automobile maintenance, a little oil spillage is easily spread throughout the
cabin. Imagine working on your car on the kitchen table in your home.
Since the engine is used to get you off the dock and out the channel where you
can raise the sails , you will put very few hours on your engine. Plan on
changing the oil prior to winter layup or an extended time between usage.
Diesel oil collects contaminates and get very acidic as the oil ages. I try to
change ours annually and probably have less than 50 hours on the engine during a
“season”
The 28 is the “little sister” to our Cal 33. I have never heard any complaints
from 28-2 owners and the boat should be a joy to sail. I hope you enjoy your
new boat as much as we have ours!
Tymll
john
From:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Will Fortier
Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 9:45 AM
To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Cal_Boats] "New" Cal 28-2 punchlist
Hello,
I just bought a '86 Cal 28-2 and am putting together a punch list of priority
tasks. Luckily, it came with many of the original manuals (which I'd be happy to
scan for anyone who needs something specific).
So far, my first goals are:
1. engine oil change
2. fuel filter change and drain the fuel tank (to see if these steps help with
hard starting and initial rough running)
3. zinc anode replacement (does anyone know where and how many there are ??)
Are there any suggestions about other high priority items that shouldn't be put
off?? Thanks in advance for any help!