Re: [Cal_Boats] deck damage

Hello, Greg: I have done extensive repairs of damaged core on my boat. For stantion area, you want the extra strength of marine plywood, so, if accesible, I would remove the glass from below deck, so as not damage non skid and surface. Then remove the damaged core, make a template and cut a section of wood using the template. Once you have your wood cut, set it in place firmly, drill the stantion base holes thru your wood. Remove the wood and make the holes bigger, about 3/4 to an inch in diameter. Set wood in place using west system epoxy with microfibers (mix to a mayo consistency). Glass in using two layers of 10 oz fibelglass. Fill the bored holes from the top. Let set and finish. The filled holes will provide a water tight seal, so even if you have a leak thru the stantion holes, it won't wet the core again. You may even consider boring all other thru deck holes with a bent nail on a drill, and filling with epoxy. I would seal the stantion bases with 3m 4200, not 5200! Jeffrey Owen, Pres. Caribbean Controls Group, Inc. Aguadilla, Puerto Rico Voice. (787)882-0494 882-0033 Fax. 882-0457 Mobile. (787)378-6514 On Apr 19, 2011, at 8:21 AM, Greg Reinhard <gr… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: One of my stanchion bolts compressed the core decking underneath and water damage has set in. After removing the bolt there is a hole about a dime size in circumfrence and sounding the deck shows that water has damaged the core at least six inches surrounding the hole. Is there any satisfactory way to self repair this. I hate to pay the price of the yard. I figure this is my last boat and I want it to last for the next 4-5 years. There is some hardware store stuff that is supposed to fix rotten wood....would soaking it with this and then packing the hole with expoxy be a possibility? Thanks for any advice. Greg

In my case, I put the wood in straight, but laminated the bottom side with 10 oz, after it had set, I did another layer that extends about 1 inch over the old fiberglass (which I did taper) and another layer about 2 inches larger tha the re-cored area. Used SS baking plates of the same size as the stantion bases. BTW, I liked the spring washer suggestion from Timm Jeff '72 Cal 33 On Apr 20, 2011, at 11:06 AM, Allen Edwards <al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com> wrote: A taper would be a lot stronger both from more surface area for the epoxy but also it would provide direct transfer of any upward force to the neighboring core. That said, I checked the West System article again as I remembered they had a taper in there. The taper they recommend is a 12:1 taper on the fiberglass but the core was straight. I used a 12:1 taper when I repaired my boom (spruce). Allen

As my old buddy Frank said For what is a man what has he got If not himself then he has not To say the things he truly feels And not the words of one who kneels The record shows I took the blows And did it my way Yes it was my way From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2011 11:41 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] deck damage In my case, I put the wood in straight, but laminated the bottom side with 10 oz, after it had set, I did another layer that extends about 1 inch over the old fiberglass (which I did taper) and another layer about 2 inches larger tha the re-cored area. Used SS baking plates of the same size as the stantion bases. BTW, I liked the spring washer suggestion from Timm Jeff '72 Cal 33 On Apr 20, 2011, at 11:06 AM, Allen Edwards <al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com<mailto:al… [at] PaloAltoPhoto.com>> wrote: A taper would be a lot stronger both from more surface area for the epoxy but also it would provide direct transfer of any upward force to the neighboring core. That said, I checked the West System article again as I remembered they had a taper in there. The taper they recommend is a 12:1 taper on the fiberglass but the core was straight. I used a 12:1 taper when I repaired my boom (spruce). Allen