stanchion repairs

You can get a metal worker to cut a set of stanchion backing plates for the underside of the deck, and possibly flatten out the bases of those you have. At Minney's in Newport, Ca., they sell stanchions by the each. You can also order one new one from manufacturers in styles to match. Quite a few Cals use 24 inch stanchions, however, the bases can vary in shape from round to almost square, slightly smaller on the inboard side (like our 29 has). Also, one or two lifeline holes, the tops can be the same as the stick or black plastic, and the brackets can be different, such as the loop (like our 29), or the 3-leg, and some are gate-posts and have an angle brace. Any chance you have an old picture of your boat at home that you can close-up to see a stanchion? When we did ours, we used sikaflex caulk or lifecaulk to bed them, in the screwholes and a line all the way around just outside of where the screwholes were. One that had torn some washers up into the core, we reglassed both sides and filled the holes after grinding clean, then redrilled. You'll need someone to help with holding the backing plates or washers(use big washers if you do) and putting the nuts on the machine screws and then tighten evenly all around. Helen

It is probably not advisable, but......I went to a local metal recycling place and bought some odd pieces of 1/4 inch aluminum plate. Then, I cut backing plates for them on my table saw with an old carbide tipped blade. Worked great. Not recommending it, just reporting. Reggie To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: he… [at] sbcglobal.net Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 23:24:40 -0700 Subject: [Cal_Boats] stanchion repairs You can get a metal worker to cut a set of stanchion backing plates for the underside of the deck, and possibly flatten out the bases of those you have. At Minney's in Newport, Ca., they sell stanchions by the each. You can also order one new one from manufacturers in styles to match. Quite a few Cals use 24 inch stanchions, however, the bases can vary in shape from round to almost square, slightly smaller on the inboard side (like our 29 has). Also, one or two lifeline holes, the tops can be the same as the stick or black plastic, and the brackets can be different, such as the loop (like our 29), or the 3-leg, and some are gate-posts and have an angle brace. Any chance you have an old picture of your boat at home that you can close-up to see a stanchion? When we did ours, we used sikaflex caulk or lifecaulk to bed them, in the screwholes and a line all the way around just outside of where the screwholes were. One that had torn some washers up into the core, we reglassed both sides and filled the holes after grinding clean, then redrilled. You'll need someone to help with holding the backing plates or washers(use big washers if you do) and putting the nuts on the machine screws and then tighten evenly all around. Helen

On 5/31/2011 10:56 AM, r good wrote: > > It is probably not advisable, but......I went to a local metal > recycling place and bought some odd pieces of 1/4 inch aluminum > plate. Then, I cut backing plates for them on my table saw with an > old carbide tipped blade. Worked great. Not recommending it, just > reporting. > Along the same lines, my Cal 20 had no backing plates for the bow cleats, just some washers. I bought some aluminum bar stock at the hardware store and used two pieces, side by side, as elongated backing plates since the boat hangs on her mooring by those cleats. I used nylock nuts. You folks in salt water would probably avoid aluminum and stainless steel (the bolts and nuts) but here in the Great Lakes it's fine (especially because the cleats are well-bedded and there are no leaks). My other boat dates from 1961 and has wonderful bronze stanchion bases with matching backing plates. Sturdy and effective so far. Chris Campbell

Garhauer offers matching backing plates To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: cc… [at] lsnm.org Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2011 15:59:03 -0400 Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchion repairs On 5/31/2011 10:56 AM, r good wrote: It is probably not advisable, but......I went to a local metal recycling place and bought some odd pieces of 1/4 inch aluminum plate. Then, I cut backing plates for them on my table saw with an old carbide tipped blade. Worked great. Not recommending it, just reporting. Along the same lines, my Cal 20 had no backing plates for the bow cleats, just some washers. I bought some aluminum bar stock at the hardware store and used two pieces, side by side, as elongated backing plates since the boat hangs on her mooring by those cleats. I used nylock nuts. You folks in salt water would probably avoid aluminum and stainless steel (the bolts and nuts) but here in the Great Lakes it's fine (especially because the cleats are well-bedded and there are no leaks). My other boat dates from 1961 and has wonderful bronze stanchion bases with matching backing plates. Sturdy and effective so far. Chris Campbell

BBBBBBBBE CAREFULL WITH AL AND SAW BLADES. I have cut in a chop saw with carbide blade and machined a fair amount of the stuff on a router table, lathe and dremel. The blade was making perfect cuts when all of a sudden the blade caught the aluminum and rip it out of my hand and with so much force that it broke the cast AL saw fence and went flying across the garage. Came close to a catastrophe. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: Chris Campbell To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2011 12:59 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchion repairs On 5/31/2011 10:56 AM, r good wrote: It is probably not advisable, but......I went to a local metal recycling place and bought some odd pieces of 1/4 inch aluminum plate. Then, I cut backing plates for them on my table saw with an old carbide tipped blade. Worked great. Not recommending it, just reporting. Along the same lines, my Cal 20 had no backing plates for the bow cleats, just some washers. I bought some aluminum bar stock at the hardware store and used two pieces, side by side, as elongated backing plates since the boat hangs on her mooring by those cleats. I used nylock nuts. You folks in salt water would probably avoid aluminum and stainless steel (the bolts and nuts) but here in the Great Lakes it's fine (especially because the cleats are well-bedded and there are no leaks). My other boat dates from 1961 and has wonderful bronze stanchion bases with matching backing plates. Sturdy and effective so far. Chris Campbell __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 6172 (20110601) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 6172 (20110601) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com

Guys, I have been using Starboard for backing recently, it's 1/2" and easy to cut and drill. Truth is I had it left over from a failed project and decided to use it for something instead of putting it in the failed project graveyard, or the dumpster. On another note, I painted the bottom today, just have to wash and wax the hull. Splashing next week. Why so late you ask? The Lake Michigan water temp is 58 today, it's still cool out there. I like to sail in shorts. Regards, Dave Dobbs CAL29 411 --- On Wed, 6/1/11, r good <my… [at] hotmail.com> wrote: From: r good <my… [at] hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] stanchion repairs To: ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Wednesday, June 1, 2011, 3:11 PM Garhauer offers matching backing plates To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: cc… [at] lsnm.org Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2011 15:59:03 -0400 Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchion repairs On 5/31/2011 10:56 AM, r good wrote: It is probably not advisable, but......I went to a local metal recycling place and bought some odd pieces of 1/4 inch aluminum plate. Then, I cut backing plates for them on my table saw with an old carbide tipped blade. Worked great. Not recommending it, just reporting. Along the same lines, my Cal 20 had no backing plates for the bow cleats, just some washers. I bought some aluminum bar stock at the hardware store and used two pieces, side by side, as elongated backing plates since the boat hangs on her mooring by those cleats. I used nylock nuts. You folks in salt water would probably avoid aluminum and stainless steel (the bolts and nuts) but here in the Great Lakes it's fine (especially because the cleats are well-bedded and there are no leaks). My other boat dates from 1961 and has wonderful bronze stanchion bases with matching backing plates. Sturdy and effective so far. Chris Campbell

On 6/1/2011 10:12 PM, david dobbs wrote: > > On another note, I painted the bottom today, just have to wash and > wax the hull. Splashing next week. Why so late you ask? The Lake > Michigan water temp is 58 today, it's still cool out there. I like to > sail in shorts. > Stalwart Cal 20 #1220, /Martha C, / has been floating on her mooring for about two weeks now. Last week we stepped the mast. Then the rain, cold, and wind resumed. Last night, after a day of howling winds from the west, I rowed out and placed the boom, then bent on the mainsail. The west wind dropped about halfway through and then resumed as a howling northwest blow. My preference is always to make the first sail on an unadjusted rig in moderate conditions, so I just fiddled around. The wind dropped a bit eventually but by then it was cold and getting dark so I rowed ashore. It's a lovely day today (of course it is, I am at work) but maybe I'll get an actual first sail tonight. That is, if the forecast of thunderstorms is not accurate. Our little mooring field usually has about 38 boats. Last night I was still just one of 14. In light of the worse weather effects in other parts of the country it's probably in bad taste to complain too loudly, but I will say that this is not among my favorite springs. I'm teaching on the schoolship tomorrow and the forecast is--of course--thunderstorms. Chris Campbell > >