Replacing my Engine Mounts

Ok, I have the new mounts and they are a straight up remove and replace for the old ones. My plan is to use the leveling nuts to raise up all four corners as high as they can go and then pull and replace each mount one at a time. (after decoupling the shaft of course) Realligning the flanges is a bit scary to me as I have read about the tolerances required. It seems nearly impossible to achieve confidence in the allignemnt to me due to the fact that I have a 5-10 pound chunk of iron hanging from the shaft which surely deflects the angle a little due to sag. I will do my best to account for this but I have never seen an article that tells the reader to consider this so I suspect we have lots of folks who think they are alligned but are not. Any words of wisdom from folks who have done this before? It seems straight forward enough to me but I have underestimated boat projects so many times I thought I should ask. Also: Anyone coming to Poulsbo for the fireworks on the 3rd? Chris Cal31, Poulsbo, WA

contact Joe Demers. Align as close as you can then add the flex coupler he has available. Will allow for modest mis-alignment. Reggie To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: sc… [at] yahoo.com Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 14:42:31 +0000 Subject: [Cal_Boats] Replacing my Engine Mounts Ok, I have the new mounts and they are a straight up remove and replace for the old ones. My plan is to use the leveling nuts to raise up all four corners as high as they can go and then pull and replace each mount one at a time. (after decoupling the shaft of course) Realligning the flanges is a bit scary to me as I have read about the tolerances required. It seems nearly impossible to achieve confidence in the allignemnt to me due to the fact that I have a 5-10 pound chunk of iron hanging from the shaft which surely deflects the angle a little due to sag. I will do my best to account for this but I have never seen an article that tells the reader to consider this so I suspect we have lots of folks who think they are alligned but are not. Any words of wisdom from folks who have done this before? It seems straight forward enough to me but I have underestimated boat projects so many times I thought I should ask. Also: Anyone coming to Poulsbo for the fireworks on the 3rd? Chris Cal31, Poulsbo, WA

Are you worried about the prop bending the shaft? Remember that prop is hanging on a 1 inch (in my case) shaft supported just a few inches away by the cutless bearing . There is no way it can bend it. The force on the other end of the shaft, several feet away, is correspondingly smaller by the ratio of those distances so you have 10 pounds * inches / feet so it becomes a small force on the long shaft. I have done the alignment you are talking about. It has two steps. First see if the trans flange is centered where the shaft wants to be. Take note of where you would like it. This needs to be close but not that close that you need a feeler gauge to do it. Then run the shaft flange up to the transmission flange and see if you can get a .003 feeler gauge in anywhere around the gap between the two. If not, you are good. I actually ran the flanges so they were .010 apart and looked to see if I could get a .013 feeler gauge in but either way will work. If you have a gap, you have to move the engine around to tilt the flange while at the same time getting it centered. If you move the front of the engine up, the flange will go down and tilt back. If you move the rear of the engine down, the flange will go down and tilt back. If you consider which way you want the trans flange to both tilt and move compared to your measurements you can figure out which part or parts of the engine to move. I did this with a calculation. I entered my engine dimensions and the up down, right left alignment and the feeler gauge gap and figured out how much I needed to move which mounts. It is simple math and I have been considering writing up a web page to do it but have not gotten around to it yet... Basically, if your motor mounts are 16 inches apart and you have a 4 inch flange, you need to move the engine 16/4 or 4 times as much as the tilt you are trying to take out. And if the trans flange is 8 inches back from the rear motor mount, you need to move the engine 16/(16 + 8) = 2/3 as much as the right-left-up-down distance you are trying to take out. You just need to figure out how to do both things at the same time. My engine is hard bolted to the boat, no mounts. Aligning the engine removed all the vibration I had. Made a huge difference. Allen On Thu, Jun 30, 2011 at 7:42 AM, sculler2000 <sc… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > ** > > > Ok, I have the new mounts and they are a straight up remove and replace for > the old ones. > > My plan is to use the leveling nuts to raise up all four corners as high as > they can go and then pull and replace each mount one at a time. (after > decoupling the shaft of course) > > Realligning the flanges is a bit scary to me as I have read about the > tolerances required. It seems nearly impossible to achieve confidence in the > allignemnt to me due to the fact that I have a 5-10 pound chunk of iron > hanging from the shaft which surely deflects the angle a little due to sag. > I will do my best to account for this but I have never seen an article that > tells the reader to consider this so I suspect we have lots of folks who > think they are alligned but are not. > > Any words of wisdom from folks who have done this before? It seems straight > forward enough to me but I have underestimated boat projects so many times I > thought I should ask. > > Also: Anyone coming to Poulsbo for the fireworks on the 3rd? > > Chris > Cal31, Poulsbo, WA > > >

Lots of godd stuff. Thanks. The shaft bend that I am talking about is at the other end. Not the prop but the coupling / flange that attaches to the transmission. It sags when decoupled. Easy to see on my boat. If you allign to this as you describe without compensating somehow, you are not alligned at all (on my boat and many others I assume) Thanks for all of the rest of the info. I like the math. Chris --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, Allen Edwards <allen.edwards@...> wrote: > > Are you worried about the prop bending the shaft? Remember that prop is > hanging on a 1 inch (in my case) shaft supported just a few inches away by > the cutless bearing . There is no way it can bend it. The force on the > other end of the shaft, several feet away, is correspondingly smaller by the > ratio of those distances so you have 10 pounds * inches / feet so it becomes > a small force on the long shaft. > > I have done the alignment you are talking about. It has two steps. First > see if the trans flange is centered where the shaft wants to be. Take note > of where you would like it. This needs to be close but not that close that > you need a feeler gauge to do it. Then run the shaft flange up to the > transmission flange and see if you can get a .003 feeler gauge in anywhere > around the gap between the two. If not, you are good. I actually ran the > flanges so they were .010 apart and looked to see if I could get a .013 > feeler gauge in but either way will work. If you have a gap, you have to > move the engine around to tilt the flange while at the same time getting it > centered. If you move the front of the engine up, the flange will go down > and tilt back. If you move the rear of the engine down, the flange will go > down and tilt back. If you consider which way you want the trans flange to > both tilt and move compared to your measurements you can figure out which > part or parts of the engine to move. > > I did this with a calculation. I entered my engine dimensions and the up > down, right left alignment and the feeler gauge gap and figured out how much > I needed to move which mounts. It is simple math and I have been > considering writing up a web page to do it but have not gotten around to it > yet... > > Basically, if your motor mounts are 16 inches apart and you have a 4 inch > flange, you need to move the engine 16/4 or 4 times as much as the tilt you > are trying to take out. And if the trans flange is 8 inches back from the > rear motor mount, you need to move the engine 16/(16 + 8) = 2/3 as much as > the right-left-up-down distance you are trying to take out. You just need > to figure out how to do both things at the same time. > > My engine is hard bolted to the boat, no mounts. Aligning the engine > removed all the vibration I had. Made a huge difference. > > Allen > > On Thu, Jun 30, 2011 at 7:42 AM, sculler2000 <sculler2000@...> wrote: > > > ** > > > > > > Ok, I have the new mounts and they are a straight up remove and replace for > > the old ones. > > > > My plan is to use the leveling nuts to raise up all four corners as high as > > they can go and then pull and replace each mount one at a time. (after > > decoupling the shaft of course) > > > > Realligning the flanges is a bit scary to me as I have read about the > > tolerances required. It seems nearly impossible to achieve confidence in the > > allignemnt to me due to the fact that I have a 5-10 pound chunk of iron > > hanging from the shaft which surely deflects the angle a little due to sag. > > I will do my best to account for this but I have never seen an article that > > tells the reader to consider this so I suspect we have lots of folks who > > think they are alligned but are not. > > > > Any words of wisdom from folks who have done this before? It seems straight > > forward enough to me but I have underestimated boat projects so many times I > > thought I should ask. > > > > Also: Anyone coming to Poulsbo for the fireworks on the 3rd? > > > > Chris > > Cal31, Poulsbo, WA > > > > > > >

I think you are talking about the up-down part of the up-down-left-right. I probably didn't explain that well. What I did was take the shaft and move it up and down, left and right and measured the amount it moved relative to the engine flange. My goal was to have it centered in this space when I was done. Thus, if the sag was 1/2 an inch and I could move it up an inch, I was centered. Hope this helps. Allen On Thu, Jun 30, 2011 at 9:20 AM, sculler2000 <sc… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > ** > > > > Lots of godd stuff. Thanks. > > The shaft bend that I am talking about is at the other end. Not the prop > but the coupling / flange that attaches to the transmission. It sags when > decoupled. Easy to see on my boat. > If you allign to this as you describe without compensating somehow, you are > not alligned at all (on my boat and many others I assume) > > Thanks for all of the rest of the info. I like the math. > > Chris > > > --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, Allen Edwards <allen.edwards@...> wrote: > > > > Are you worried about the prop bending the shaft? Remember that prop is > > hanging on a 1 inch (in my case) shaft supported just a few inches away > by > > the cutless bearing . There is no way it can bend it. The force on the > > other end of the shaft, several feet away, is correspondingly smaller by > the > > ratio of those distances so you have 10 pounds * inches / feet so it > becomes > > a small force on the long shaft. > > > > I have done the alignment you are talking about. It has two steps. First > > see if the trans flange is centered where the shaft wants to be. Take > note > > of where you would like it. This needs to be close but not that close > that > > you need a feeler gauge to do it. Then run the shaft flange up to the > > transmission flange and see if you can get a .003 feeler gauge in > anywhere > > around the gap between the two. If not, you are good. I actually ran the > > flanges so they were .010 apart and looked to see if I could get a .013 > > feeler gauge in but either way will work. If you have a gap, you have to > > move the engine around to tilt the flange while at the same time getting > it > > centered. If you move the front of the engine up, the flange will go down > > and tilt back. If you move the rear of the engine down, the flange will > go > > down and tilt back. If you consider which way you want the trans flange > to > > both tilt and move compared to your measurements you can figure out which > > part or parts of the engine to move. > > > > I did this with a calculation. I entered my engine dimensions and the up > > down, right left alignment and the feeler gauge gap and figured out how > much > > I needed to move which mounts. It is simple math and I have been > > considering writing up a web page to do it but have not gotten around to > it > > yet... > > > > Basically, if your motor mounts are 16 inches apart and you have a 4 inch > > flange, you need to move the engine 16/4 or 4 times as much as the tilt > you > > are trying to take out. And if the trans flange is 8 inches back from the > > rear motor mount, you need to move the engine 16/(16 + 8) = 2/3 as much > as > > the right-left-up-down distance you are trying to take out. You just need > > to figure out how to do both things at the same time. > > > > My engine is hard bolted to the boat, no mounts. Aligning the engine > > removed all the vibration I had. Made a huge difference. > > > > Allen > > > > On Thu, Jun 30, 2011 at 7:42 AM, sculler2000 <sculler2000@...> wrote: > > > > > ** > > > > > > > > > Ok, I have the new mounts and they are a straight up remove and replace > for > > > the old ones. > > > > > > My plan is to use the leveling nuts to raise up all four corners as > high as > > > they can go and then pull and replace each mount one at a time. (after > > > decoupling the shaft of course) > > > > > > Realligning the flanges is a bit scary to me as I have read about the > > > tolerances required. It seems nearly impossible to achieve confidence > in the > > > allignemnt to me due to the fact that I have a 5-10 pound chunk of iron > > > hanging from the shaft which surely deflects the angle a little due to > sag. > > > I will do my best to account for this but I have never seen an article > that > > > tells the reader to consider this so I suspect we have lots of folks > who > > > think they are alligned but are not. > > > > > > Any words of wisdom from folks who have done this before? It seems > straight > > > forward enough to me but I have underestimated boat projects so many > times I > > > thought I should ask. > > > > > > Also: Anyone coming to Poulsbo for the fireworks on the 3rd? > > > > > > Chris > > > Cal31, Poulsbo, WA > > > > > > > > > > > > > >

center the shaft in the stuffing box prior to alignment. the sag you are seeing is the sag of the stuffing box "hose" coupling. Check all this also while you are this deep into your project. To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: sc… [at] yahoo.com Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 16:20:19 +0000 Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: Replacing my Engine Mounts Lots of godd stuff. Thanks. The shaft bend that I am talking about is at the other end. Not the prop but the coupling / flange that attaches to the transmission. It sags when decoupled. Easy to see on my boat. If you allign to this as you describe without compensating somehow, you are not alligned at all (on my boat and many others I assume) Thanks for all of the rest of the info. I like the math. Chris --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, Allen Edwards <allen.edwards@...> wrote: > > Are you worried about the prop bending the shaft? Remember that prop is > hanging on a 1 inch (in my case) shaft supported just a few inches away by > the cutless bearing . There is no way it can bend it. The force on the > other end of the shaft, several feet away, is correspondingly smaller by the > ratio of those distances so you have 10 pounds * inches / feet so it becomes > a small force on the long shaft. > > I have done the alignment you are talking about. It has two steps. First > see if the trans flange is centered where the shaft wants to be. Take note > of where you would like it. This needs to be close but not that close that > you need a feeler gauge to do it. Then run the shaft flange up to the > transmission flange and see if you can get a .003 feeler gauge in anywhere > around the gap between the two. If not, you are good. I actually ran the > flanges so they were .010 apart and looked to see if I could get a .013 > feeler gauge in but either way will work. If you have a gap, you have to > move the engine around to tilt the flange while at the same time getting it > centered. If you move the front of the engine up, the flange will go down > and tilt back. If you move the rear of the engine down, the flange will go > down and tilt back. If you consider which way you want the trans flange to > both tilt and move compared to your measurements you can figure out which > part or parts of the engine to move. > > I did this with a calculation. I entered my engine dimensions and the up > down, right left alignment and the feeler gauge gap and figured out how much > I needed to move which mounts. It is simple math and I have been > considering writing up a web page to do it but have not gotten around to it > yet... > > Basically, if your motor mounts are 16 inches apart and you have a 4 inch > flange, you need to move the engine 16/4 or 4 times as much as the tilt you > are trying to take out. And if the trans flange is 8 inches back from the > rear motor mount, you need to move the engine 16/(16 + 8) = 2/3 as much as > the right-left-up-down distance you are trying to take out. You just need > to figure out how to do both things at the same time. > > My engine is hard bolted to the boat, no mounts. Aligning the engine > removed all the vibration I had. Made a huge difference. > > Allen > > On Thu, Jun 30, 2011 at 7:42 AM, sculler2000 <sculler2000@...> wrote: > > > ** > > > > > > Ok, I have the new mounts and they are a straight up remove and replace for > > the old ones. > > > > My plan is to use the leveling nuts to raise up all four corners as high as > > they can go and then pull and replace each mount one at a time. (after > > decoupling the shaft of course) > > > > Realligning the flanges is a bit scary to me as I have read about the > > tolerances required. It seems nearly impossible to achieve confidence in the > > allignemnt to me due to the fact that I have a 5-10 pound chunk of iron > > hanging from the shaft which surely deflects the angle a little due to sag. > > I will do my best to account for this but I have never seen an article that > > tells the reader to consider this so I suspect we have lots of folks who > > think they are alligned but are not. > > > > Any words of wisdom from folks who have done this before? It seems straight > > forward enough to me but I have underestimated boat projects so many times I > > thought I should ask. > > > > Also: Anyone coming to Poulsbo for the fireworks on the 3rd? > > > > Chris > > Cal31, Poulsbo, WA > > > > > > >

Thanks for that. I'll try my best to do so. This is pretty much my point. We are going for .003 of an inch on the flanges, but we are using approximations in other areas ("lift up to ofset the sag , center in the stuffing box to accomodate for the sag, etc.") giving a false feeling of accuracy. In order to center in the stuffing box, I guess I would need to do a laser allignment while out of the water? Nobody does this on a small rec. sailboat from my research. My feeling is that this is okay and is working for thousands of us who are claiming .003" when we are nowhere near this level of accuracy. I bought $200 worth of mounts. So far that is it... so this is a cheap improvement to what I have now which is old mounts that have way too much wiggle and give in them for me and only God knows how old they are. I will try to center in the stuffing box but can any of us do that to .003" ? I'll do my best and report back afterwords. I will not attempt until after the holiday. Have a happy fourth everyone. Chris --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, r good <my1972ih@...> wrote: > > > center the shaft in the stuffing box prior to alignment. the sag you are seeing is the sag of the stuffing box "hose" coupling. Check all this also while you are this deep into your project. > > > > > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > From: sculler2000@... > Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 16:20:19 +0000 > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: Replacing my Engine Mounts > > > > > > > > Lots of godd stuff. Thanks. > > The shaft bend that I am talking about is at the other end. Not the prop but the coupling / flange that attaches to the transmission. It sags when decoupled. Easy to see on my boat. > If you allign to this as you describe without compensating somehow, you are not alligned at all (on my boat and many others I assume) > > Thanks for all of the rest of the info. I like the math. > > Chris > > --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, Allen Edwards <allen.edwards@> wrote: > > > > Are you worried about the prop bending the shaft? Remember that prop is > > hanging on a 1 inch (in my case) shaft supported just a few inches away by > > the cutless bearing . There is no way it can bend it. The force on the > > other end of the shaft, several feet away, is correspondingly smaller by the > > ratio of those distances so you have 10 pounds * inches / feet so it becomes > > a small force on the long shaft. > > > > I have done the alignment you are talking about. It has two steps. First > > see if the trans flange is centered where the shaft wants to be. Take note > > of where you would like it. This needs to be close but not that close that > > you need a feeler gauge to do it. Then run the shaft flange up to the > > transmission flange and see if you can get a .003 feeler gauge in anywhere > > around the gap between the two. If not, you are good. I actually ran the > > flanges so they were .010 apart and looked to see if I could get a .013 > > feeler gauge in but either way will work. If you have a gap, you have to > > move the engine around to tilt the flange while at the same time getting it > > centered. If you move the front of the engine up, the flange will go down > > and tilt back. If you move the rear of the engine down, the flange will go > > down and tilt back. If you consider which way you want the trans flange to > > both tilt and move compared to your measurements you can figure out which > > part or parts of the engine to move. > > > > I did this with a calculation. I entered my engine dimensions and the up > > down, right left alignment and the feeler gauge gap and figured out how much > > I needed to move which mounts. It is simple math and I have been > > considering writing up a web page to do it but have not gotten around to it > > yet... > > > > Basically, if your motor mounts are 16 inches apart and you have a 4 inch > > flange, you need to move the engine 16/4 or 4 times as much as the tilt you > > are trying to take out. And if the trans flange is 8 inches back from the > > rear motor mount, you need to move the engine 16/(16 + 8) = 2/3 as much as > > the right-left-up-down distance you are trying to take out. You just need > > to figure out how to do both things at the same time. > > > > My engine is hard bolted to the boat, no mounts. Aligning the engine > > removed all the vibration I had. Made a huge difference. > > > > Allen > > > > On Thu, Jun 30, 2011 at 7:42 AM, sculler2000 <sculler2000@> wrote: > > > > > ** > > > > > > > > > Ok, I have the new mounts and they are a straight up remove and replace for > > > the old ones. > > > > > > My plan is to use the leveling nuts to raise up all four corners as high as > > > they can go and then pull and replace each mount one at a time. (after > > > decoupling the shaft of course) > > > > > > Realligning the flanges is a bit scary to me as I have read about the > > > tolerances required. It seems nearly impossible to achieve confidence in the > > > allignemnt to me due to the fact that I have a 5-10 pound chunk of iron > > > hanging from the shaft which surely deflects the angle a little due to sag. > > > I will do my best to account for this but I have never seen an article that > > > tells the reader to consider this so I suspect we have lots of folks who > > > think they are alligned but are not. > > > > > > Any words of wisdom from folks who have done this before? It seems straight > > > forward enough to me but I have underestimated boat projects so many times I > > > thought I should ask. > > > > > > Also: Anyone coming to Poulsbo for the fireworks on the 3rd? > > > > > > Chris > > > Cal31, Poulsbo, WA > > > > > > > > > > > >

I guess all boats are different but to center the stuffing box I grabbed the shaft with my hand, moved it all around and then put the transmission in the center of that motion space. I measured center by measuring the location of the flange on the shaft when I moved it around. Don't make things more complicated than they are, that is my thought. Allen On Thu, Jun 30, 2011 at 11:38 AM, sculler2000 <sc… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > ** > > > Thanks for that. I'll try my best to do so. > > This is pretty much my point. > > We are going for .003 of an inch on the flanges, but we are using > approximations in other areas ("lift up to ofset the sag , center in the > stuffing box to accomodate for the sag, etc.") giving a false feeling of > accuracy. > > In order to center in the stuffing box, I guess I would need to do a laser > allignment while out of the water? Nobody does this on a small rec. sailboat > from my research. My feeling is that this is okay and is working for > thousands of us who are claiming .003" when we are nowhere near this level > of accuracy. > > I bought $200 worth of mounts. So far that is it... so this is a cheap > improvement to what I have now which is old mounts that have way too much > wiggle and give in them for me and only God knows how old they are. > > I will try to center in the stuffing box but can any of us do that to .003" > ? > > I'll do my best and report back afterwords. I will not attempt until after > the holiday. > > Have a happy fourth everyone. > Chris > --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, r good <my1972ih@...> wrote: > > > > > > center the shaft in the stuffing box prior to alignment. the sag you are > seeing is the sag of the stuffing box "hose" coupling. Check all this also > while you are this deep into your project. > > > > > > > > > > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > > From: sculler2000@... > > Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 16:20:19 +0000 > > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: Replacing my Engine Mounts > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Lots of godd stuff. Thanks. > > > > The shaft bend that I am talking about is at the other end. Not the prop > but the coupling / flange that attaches to the transmission. It sags when > decoupled. Easy to see on my boat. > > If you allign to this as you describe without compensating somehow, you > are not alligned at all (on my boat and many others I assume) > > > > Thanks for all of the rest of the info. I like the math. > > > > Chris > > > > --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, Allen Edwards <allen.edwards@> wrote: > > > > > > Are you worried about the prop bending the shaft? Remember that prop is > > > hanging on a 1 inch (in my case) shaft supported just a few inches away > by > > > the cutless bearing . There is no way it can bend it. The force on the > > > other end of the shaft, several feet away, is correspondingly smaller > by the > > > ratio of those distances so you have 10 pounds * inches / feet so it > becomes > > > a small force on the long shaft. > > > > > > I have done the alignment you are talking about. It has two steps. > First > > > see if the trans flange is centered where the shaft wants to be. Take > note > > > of where you would like it. This needs to be close but not that close > that > > > you need a feeler gauge to do it. Then run the shaft flange up to the > > > transmission flange and see if you can get a .003 feeler gauge in > anywhere > > > around the gap between the two. If not, you are good. I actually ran > the > > > flanges so they were .010 apart and looked to see if I could get a .013 > > > feeler gauge in but either way will work. If you have a gap, you have > to > > > move the engine around to tilt the flange while at the same time > getting it > > > centered. If you move the front of the engine up, the flange will go > down > > > and tilt back. If you move the rear of the engine down, the flange will > go > > > down and tilt back. If you consider which way you want the trans flange > to > > > both tilt and move compared to your measurements you can figure out > which > > > part or parts of the engine to move. > > > > > > I did this with a calculation. I entered my engine dimensions and the > up > > > down, right left alignment and the feeler gauge gap and figured out how > much > > > I needed to move which mounts. It is simple math and I have been > > > considering writing up a web page to do it but have not gotten around > to it > > > yet... > > > > > > Basically, if your motor mounts are 16 inches apart and you have a 4 > inch > > > flange, you need to move the engine 16/4 or 4 times as much as the tilt > you > > > are trying to take out. And if the trans flange is 8 inches back from > the > > > rear motor mount, you need to move the engine 16/(16 + 8) = 2/3 as much > as > > > the right-left-up-down distance you are trying to take out. You just > need > > > to figure out how to do both things at the same time. > > > > > > My engine is hard bolted to the boat, no mounts. Aligning the engine > > > removed all the vibration I had. Made a huge difference. > > > > > > Allen > > > > > > On Thu, Jun 30, 2011 at 7:42 AM, sculler2000 <sculler2000@> wrote: > > > > > > > ** > > > > > > > > > > > > Ok, I have the new mounts and they are a straight up remove and > replace for > > > > the old ones. > > > > > > > > My plan is to use the leveling nuts to raise up all four corners as > high as > > > > they can go and then pull and replace each mount one at a time. > (after > > > > decoupling the shaft of course) > > > > > > > > Realligning the flanges is a bit scary to me as I have read about the > > > > tolerances required. It seems nearly impossible to achieve confidence > in the > > > > allignemnt to me due to the fact that I have a 5-10 pound chunk of > iron > > > > hanging from the shaft which surely deflects the angle a little due > to sag. > > > > I will do my best to account for this but I have never seen an > article that > > > > tells the reader to consider this so I suspect we have lots of folks > who > > > > think they are alligned but are not. > > > > > > > > Any words of wisdom from folks who have done this before? It seems > straight > > > > forward enough to me but I have underestimated boat projects so many > times I > > > > thought I should ask. > > > > > > > > Also: Anyone coming to Poulsbo for the fireworks on the 3rd? > > > > > > > > Chris > > > > Cal31, Poulsbo, WA > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >