"It was a gray and dingy day...

From: my… [at] hotmail.com To: ma… [at] worldpub.net Subject: article submitted for you rapproval Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2011 18:36:35 -0600 Dismal Swamp Canal Transit, or "It was a gray and dingy day..." The day started out dingy and gray for our trip south through the Dismal Swamp Canal, and progress from misty to sprinkles to rain. We entered Deep Creek lock with a 29 foot sailboat being singlehanded by a gent from Maine. By comparison, it made our old CAL Cruising 36 look absolutely capacious. This is an unlisted benefit of the Dismal Swamp route. Most of the big fancy yachts take the other route, so ours looks more impressive than it is. Our lock companion tied up at Deep Creek, just past the locks. This is apparently the best place to re-provision for many miles. The grocery store is only a block or two from your boat, We had all the canal and most of the Posquotank River to ourselves all the way to Elizabeth City. The canal goes straight as an arrow for miles and miles, then makes about a 30 degree turn and goes straight again for miles and miles. After exiting the South Mill Lock, the river does a similar run. Water is high this year. The Army Corps of Engineers is tasked with maintaining a minimum 6 feet depth. That doesn’t cut a lot of slack for a boat drafting just under 6 feet. Seeing 7 ½ feet on the depth meter is modest consolation, however our depth meter is very intermittent. And, that consolation does not keep the heart from racing when you tag the probable submerged log and hurry to check the bilge to see if you are taking on water. It does not preclude the gasp when a submerged but not yet sunken branch hits your hull. It does not quell your apprehension when you see a mighty fallen tree disappearing into the canal ahead of you. We tapped several times as is the rule, with no damage. Neither did we suffer damage from overhanging trees, some of which had branches broken off by other passing masts. We never touched. This year’s trip made me think of Bogart and Hepburn and the “African Queen”. All alone. Tall lush trees and brush crowding in and over you from both sides. Nothing to hear but the thrumming of the engine. Collar pulled up, Cap pulled down. Ham and swiss rolled in a cabbage leaf as sandwiches for lunch. A hot cup of tea while waiting for the opening time of the South Mill lock. No German gunboat. No other boats at all. Early May last year was a different story. It was very warm and dry. Traffic included a couple hundred kayaks, canoes and other paddled craft looking like colorful confetti sprinkled on the canal ahead of us. The first Saturday in May is the “Paddle for the Border” event on the canal when paddlers put in at South Mill and paddle to the visitors center near the North Carolina/Virginia border. They waived and took pictures of us as we passed through them. Some also begged for tows! The rain ended as we prepared to take advantage of the 48 hours free municipal dock in Elizabeth City. A dinner “home cooked” by my bride and a couple glasses of corrugated cabernet rounded out the day. Reggie Good SV "Submit", CAL Cruising 36 Home port Lakeside, Montana 206-253-3823