Two Questions

Hi, All. I am coming to the Group for expertise on a couple of unrelated items. Both are boat repair related in a way (sailing content as our BC used to require). 1. I have a 95 Chevy Astro Van that I use to cart big pieces to and from boat yards and docks (sailing content). The cable to open the hood apparently got detached from the hood latch. I cannot open the hood. Have tried the jigglings up and down. The latch at the hood front releases the second detent, but the interior-activated cable must first get me past the first detent. The grill has a couple hold-down screws under the hood, so I cannot remove the grill. There are two hex head screws that hold the hood latch in place, but I need to get in about 10 inches to reach them. So far, the bolt heads are slipping off my socket wrench with long extender. There is an angle between the access entry and the hex heads. (I get access by spreading the plastic grill gins). I tried one of those double knuckle sockets, but it hard to get enough pressure. I am going through all this discussion to show I have exhausted all my own suggestions. Anybody, got a quick, devious way to pop the hood on 1995 Chevy Astro Van? 2. The slider main hatch on a CAL 25 (sailing content) is a devious animal. Much like the hood on the Astro, one must get into places where one cannot get into in order to rework or repair. There are multiple self-tap screws that pull out of the glas making the female slide element get stuck or come loose. One of things I need to do is to fill the (not deep) space behind the torn out screw holes so I can run a self-tapping screw back in. Not enough space to use a toggle bolt. I have tried extra layers of glas (can't build up too much or the whole thing won't work) and foaming fillers. The space to fill is about 1" wide, by <.5 in deep, by about 20" long. It is where the female slider attaches to the back section of the sliding/lifting hatch. Epoxy with filler seems too brittle unless there is a filler that makes it more supple. I do need a material that starts as liquid since I can only go in through the stripped screw holes. No other access. What is a good filler to use for threading purposes.? Boy, are my fingers tired. Cheers Charlie

Hard to picture both questions... Depending on the strength required (not life danger structural) 5 minute Gudgeon Bros epoxy is "flexible" rubbery. 610 in a caulking tube is also a bit flexy, predrilling would help keep it from shattering As for the car, looks like a shimmy or a coat hanger are some of the internet solutions. Can a coat hanger be used to pull (or push) the lever to the second detent? Can you see anything from under the vehicle? on some cars/vans you can reach up from under vehicle to grab hood latch cable (or hood latch unit if cable is broken) and disengage. you may need a flashlight and it would help, especially if the cable is broken, to know exactly which direction to move unit to disengage. You may need to use some type of tool to reach desired location. there are many vehicles where this may not work. good luck. glennj69 You will need to go in from underneath, behind the front bumper. Use a coat hanger to catch and pull the release on the hood latch. Look for the cable to identify the area of the latch to pull. Read more: I have a broken hood latch cable for a 1992 Chevy Astro ext - JustAnswer<http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/1tia8-broken-hood-latch-cable-1992-chevy-astro-ext.html#ixzz1dFTCt8Ts> http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/1tia8-broken-hood-latch-cable-1992-chevy-astro-ext.html#ixzz1dFTCt8Ts Re: Broken Hood Cable<http://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=9031#p94127> [Post]<http://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.php?p=94127&sid=8b317f754f6deaf4a45012ea518c8677#p94127>by TheRealDaddy<http://www.astrosafari.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=4876&sid=8b317f754f6deaf4a45012ea518c8677> > September 18th 2010, 9:53pm In my experience when the cable breaks it pulls out in your hand when you tug on it. If the cable returns on it's own or stops dead in it's tracks it's most likely not broken. Try getting a friend to push down on the hood while you try to release it, lift up on it, smack it around like a read headed step child. You know just experiment. I have one of these that sticks because the spring is a little weak and so if the latch isn't freshly lubricated it won't pop. The way I get it to pop is to pull and release the handle inside then I go out and smack the hood right in the center down by the grill with the side of my fist. Not real hard mind you just enough to knock it loose. This has been a trick I've used on many a GM over the years. (Think Fonzie from Happy Days if you will) I go crazy everytime I have to open the hood on my 98 Chevy<http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_to_open_hood_on_1990_Chevy_Astro_Van_when_cable_is_broken> Astro. The guys just say "oh it's a Chevy" and they bang the hood. I have found that if I stick a butter knife unde the hood I can open it. What a pain! Read more: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_to_open_hood_on_1990_Chevy_Astro_Van_when_cable_is_broken#ixzz1dFUNz25w Cheers, [cid:image005.png@01CBF93B.85770E70] Timm Lessley 503.863.4019 Cell to cell calls From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Husar, Charlie [USA] (ASE) Sent: Wednesday, November 09, 2011 2:39 PM To: CAL Yahoo (Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com) Subject: [Cal_Boats] Two Questions Hi, All. I am coming to the Group for expertise on a couple of unrelated items. Both are boat repair related in a way (sailing content as our BC used to require). 1. I have a 95 Chevy Astro Van that I use to cart big pieces to and from boat yards and docks (sailing content). The cable to open the hood apparently got detached from the hood latch. I cannot open the hood. Have tried the jigglings up and down. The latch at the hood front releases the second detent, but the interior-activated cable must first get me past the first detent. The grill has a couple hold-down screws under the hood, so I cannot remove the grill. There are two hex head screws that hold the hood latch in place, but I need to get in about 10 inches to reach them. So far, the bolt heads are slipping off my socket wrench with long extender. There is an angle between the access entry and the hex heads. (I get access by spreading the plastic grill gins). I tried one of those double knuckle sockets, but it hard to get enough pressure. I am going through all this discussion to show I have exhausted all my own suggestions. Anybody, got a quick, devious way to pop the hood on 1995 Chevy Astro Van? 2. The slider main hatch on a CAL 25 (sailing content) is a devious animal. Much like the hood on the Astro, one must get into places where one cannot get into in order to rework or repair. There are multiple self-tap screws that pull out of the glas making the female slide element get stuck or come loose. One of things I need to do is to fill the (not deep) space behind the torn out screw holes so I can run a self-tapping screw back in. Not enough space to use a toggle bolt. I have tried extra layers of glas (can't build up too much or the whole thing won't work) and foaming fillers. The space to fill is about 1" wide, by <.5 in deep, by about 20" long. It is where the female slider attaches to the back section of the sliding/lifting hatch. Epoxy with filler seems too brittle unless there is a filler that makes it more supple. I do need a material that starts as liquid since I can only go in through the stripped screw holes. No other access. What is a good filler to use for threading purposes.? Boy, are my fingers tired. Cheers Charlie

More but similar answers 1) http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_to_open_hood_on_1990_Chevy_Astro_Van_when_cable_is_broken 2) West System with almost any of their fillers will be way strong. You can even grind up some material of your choice to make a filler. Best to wet the surface first before you add the filler so that you get a strong joint if that is possible. Ideally, assuming the filler will stay in place, you can put the filler in and set the screw in wet epoxy. You need just a bit of bite in the existing for this to work but then it won't come out as you will not have weakened it with the self tapping screw. You can use a machine screw just a tad larger if that would be easier. Allen On Wed, Nov 9, 2011 at 2:20 PM, <ti… [at] ch2m.com> wrote: > ** > > > Hard to picture both questions… Depending on the strength required (not > life danger structural) 5 minute Gudgeon Bros epoxy is “flexible” rubbery. > 610 in a caulking tube is also a bit flexy, predrilling would help keep it > from shattering**** > > ** ** > > As for the car, looks like a shimmy or a coat hanger are some of the > internet solutions.**** > > ** ** > > Can a coat hanger be used to pull (or push) the lever to the second > detent? Can you see anything from under the vehicle?**** > > on some cars/vans you can reach up from under vehicle to grab hood latch > cable (or hood latch unit if cable is broken) and disengage. you may need a > flashlight and it would help, especially if the cable is broken, to know > exactly which direction to move unit to disengage. You may need to use some > type of tool to reach desired location. there are many vehicles where this > may not work. good luck. glennj69**** > > You will need to go in from underneath, behind the front bumper. Use a > coat hanger to catch and pull the release on the hood latch. Look for the > cable to identify the area of the latch to pull. Read more: I have a > broken hood latch cable for a 1992 Chevy Astro ext - JustAnswer<http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/1tia8-broken-hood-latch-cable-1992-chevy-astro-ext.html#ixzz1dFTCt8Ts> > http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/1tia8-broken-hood-latch-cable-1992-chevy-astro-ext.html#ixzz1dFTCt8Ts > **** > Re: Broken Hood Cable<http://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=9031#p94127> > **** > > [image: Post]<http://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.php?p=94127&sid=8b317f754f6deaf4a45012ea518c8677#p94127>by > *TheRealDaddy<http://www.astrosafari.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=4876&sid=8b317f754f6deaf4a45012ea518c8677> > * » September 18th 2010, 9:53pm **** > > In my experience when the cable breaks it pulls out in your hand when you > tug on it. If the cable returns on it's own or stops dead in it's tracks > it's most likely not broken. Try getting a friend to push down on the hood > while you try to release it, lift up on it, smack it around like a read > headed step child. You know just experiment. I have one of these that > sticks because the spring is a little weak and so if the latch isn't > freshly lubricated it won't pop. The way I get it to pop is to pull and > release the handle inside then I go out and smack the hood right in the > center down by the grill with the side of my fist. Not real hard mind you > just enough to knock it loose. This has been a trick I've used on many a GM > over the years. (Think Fonzie from Happy Days if you will)**** > > I go crazy everytime I have to open the hood on my 98 Chevy<http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_to_open_hood_on_1990_Chevy_Astro_Van_when_cable_is_broken>Astro. The guys just say "oh it's a Chevy" and they bang the hood. I have > found that if I stick a butter knife unde the hood I can open it. What a > pain!**** > > > > Read more: > http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_to_open_hood_on_1990_Chevy_Astro_Van_when_cable_is_broken#ixzz1dFUNz25w > **** > > ** ** > > ** ** > > ** ** > > ** ** > > Cheers,**** > > * * > > *[image: cid:image005.png@01CBF93B.85770E70]* > > *Timm Lessley* > > 503.863.4019 Cell to cell calls**** > > ** ** > > *From:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] *On > Behalf Of *Husar, Charlie [USA] (ASE) > *Sent:* Wednesday, November 09, 2011 2:39 PM > *To:* CAL Yahoo (Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com) > *Subject:* [Cal_Boats] Two Questions**** > > ** ** > > **** > > Hi, All. I am coming to the Group for expertise on a couple of unrelated > items. Both are boat repair related in a way (sailing content as our BC > used to require). > > 1. I have a 95 Chevy Astro Van that I use to cart big pieces to and from > boat yards and docks (sailing content). The cable to open the hood > apparently got detached from the hood latch. I cannot open the hood. Have > tried the jigglings up and down. The latch at the hood front releases the > second detent, but the interior-activated cable must first get me past the > first detent. The grill has a couple hold-down screws under the hood, so I > cannot remove the grill. There are two hex head screws that hold the hood > latch in place, but I need to get in about 10 inches to reach them. So far, > the bolt heads are slipping off my socket wrench with long extender. There > is an angle between the access entry and the hex heads. (I get access by > spreading the plastic grill gins). I tried one of those double knuckle > sockets, but it hard to get enough pressure. I am going through all this > discussion to show I have exhausted all my own suggestions. > > Anybody, got a quick, devious way to pop the hood on 1995 Chevy Astro Van? > > 2. The slider main hatch on a CAL 25 (sailing content) is a devious > animal. Much like the hood on the Astro, one must get into places where one > cannot get into in order to rework or repair. There are multiple self-tap > screws that pull out of the glas making the female slide element get stuck > or come loose. One of things I need to do is to fill the (not deep) space > behind the torn out screw holes so I can run a self-tapping screw back in. > Not enough space to use a toggle bolt. I have tried extra layers of glas > (can't build up too much or the whole thing won't work) and foaming > fillers. The space to fill is about 1" wide, by <.5 in deep, by about 20" > long. It is where the female slider attaches to the back section of the > sliding/lifting hatch. Epoxy with filler seems too brittle unless there is > a filler that makes it more supple. I do need a material that starts as > liquid since I can only go in through the stripped screw holes. No other > access. > > What is a good filler to use for threading purposes.? > > Boy, are my fingers tired. > > Cheers > Charlie**** > > **** > > >

Charlie, can you use these? [25 Pack Barrel Nuts]<javascript:%20openBigImg();> I've used dozens of these on California girl, at every deck connection to the cabin interior, work great, don't leak and so far very sturdy - even use them for my deck winches and genoa fairlead car rails.... Added benefit no head ripping bolts and nuts. Only bummer is getting the right length fastener. Cheers, [cid:image005.png@01CBF93B.85770E70] Timm Lessley 503.863.4019 Cell to cell calls

[http://shop1.mailordercentral.com/marshfasteners/images/brrlnt.jpg] Cheers, [cid:image005.png@01CBF93B.85770E70] Timm Lessley 503.863.4019 Cell to cell calls From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ti… [at] ch2m.com Sent: Wednesday, November 09, 2011 4:46 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] RE: Two Questions Importance: High Charlie, can you use these? [25 Pack Barrel Nuts] I've used dozens of these on California girl, at every deck connection to the cabin interior, work great, don't leak and so far very sturdy - even use them for my deck winches and genoa fairlead car rails.... Added benefit no head ripping bolts and nuts. Only bummer is getting the right length fastener. Cheers, [cid:image005.png@01CBF93B.85770E70] Timm Lessley 503.863.4019 Cell to cell calls

Another idea; the cable may not be broken but stretched too far to trigger the release. So, disconnect the cable from the handle inside, take pair of small vise grips on the silver head on the end of the cable and take another pair of pliers and push the housing back towards the hood as you are pulling on the vise grips. This will trigger the hood release. Edward and Helen From: "Husar, Charlie [USA] (ASE)" <hu… [at] bah.com> To: "CAL Yahoo (Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com)" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Wednesday, November 9, 2011 1:38 PM Subject: [Cal_Boats] Two Questions Hi, All. I am coming to the Group for expertise on a couple of unrelated items. Both are boat repair related in a way (sailing content as our BC used to require). 1. I have a 95 Chevy Astro Van that I use to cart big pieces to and from boat yards and docks (sailing content). The cable to open the hood apparently got detached from the hood latch. I cannot open the hood. Have tried the jigglings up and down. The latch at the hood front releases the second detent, but the interior-activated cable must first get me past the first detent. The grill has a couple hold-down screws under the hood, so I cannot remove the grill. There are two hex head screws that hold the hood latch in place, but I need to get in about 10 inches to reach them. So far, the bolt heads are slipping off my socket wrench with long extender. There is an angle between the access entry and the hex heads. (I get access by spreading the plastic grill gins). I tried one of those double knuckle sockets, but it hard to get enough pressure. I am going through all this discussion to show I have exhausted all my own suggestions. Anybody, got a quick, devious way to pop the hood on 1995 Chevy Astro Van? 2. The slider main hatch on a CAL 25 (sailing content) is a devious animal. Much like the hood on the Astro, one must get into places where one cannot get into in order to rework or repair. There are multiple self-tap screws that pull out of the glas making the female slide element get stuck or come loose. One of things I need to do is to fill the (not deep) space behind the torn out screw holes so I can run a self-tapping screw back in. Not enough space to use a toggle bolt. I have tried extra layers of glas (can't build up too much or the whole thing won't work) and foaming fillers. The space to fill is about 1" wide, by <.5 in deep, by about 20" long. It is where the female slider attaches to the back section of the sliding/lifting hatch. Epoxy with filler seems too brittle unless there is a filler that makes it more supple. I do need a material that starts as liquid since I can only go in through the stripped screw holes. No other access. What is a good filler to use for threading purposes.? Boy, are my fingers tired. Cheers Charlie

Its been a number of years since I have read one of your emails Charlie, and you haven't changed!!! (grinning, grinning, grinning..........) Per Curtiss >________________________________ >From: "Husar, Charlie [USA] (ASE)" <hu… [at] bah.com> >To: "CAL Yahoo (Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com)" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> >Sent: Wednesday, November 9, 2011 1:38 PM >Subject: [Cal_Boats] Two Questions > > > >Hi, All. I am coming to the Group for expertise on a couple of unrelated items. Both are boat repair related in a way (sailing content as our BC used to require). > >1. I have a 95 Chevy Astro Van that I use to cart big pieces to and from boat yards and docks (sailing content). The cable to open the hood apparently got detached from the hood latch. I cannot open the hood. Have tried the jigglings up and down. The latch at the hood front releases the second detent, but the interior-activated cable must first get me past the first detent. The grill has a couple hold-down screws under the hood, so I cannot remove the grill. There are two hex head screws that hold the hood latch in place, but I need to get in about 10 inches to reach them. So far, the bolt heads are slipping off my socket wrench with long extender. There is an angle between the access entry and the hex heads. (I get access by spreading the plastic grill gins). I tried one of those double knuckle sockets, but it hard to get enough pressure. I am going through all this discussion to show I have exhausted all my own suggestions. > >Anybody, got a quick, devious way to pop the hood on 1995 Chevy Astro Van? > >2. The slider main hatch on a CAL 25 (sailing content) is a devious animal. Much like the hood on the Astro, one must get into places where one cannot get into in order to rework or repair. There are multiple self-tap screws that pull out of the glas making the female slide element get stuck or come loose. One of things I need to do is to fill the (not deep) space behind the torn out screw holes so I can run a self-tapping screw back in. Not enough space to use a toggle bolt. I have tried extra layers of glas (can't build up too much or the whole thing won't work) and foaming fillers. The space to fill is about 1" wide, by <.5 in deep, by about 20" long. It is where the female slider attaches to the back section of the sliding/lifting hatch. Epoxy with filler seems too brittle unless there is a filler that makes it more supple. I do need a material that starts as liquid since I can only go in through the stripped screw holes. No other access. > >What is a good filler to use for threading purposes.? > >Boy, are my fingers tired. > >Cheers >Charlie > > > > >

Thanks for Astro Van hood responses, Folks. I had tried the handle stuff (actually busted it off and pulled on the cable like the dickens while trying to keep the cable collar in place). Also saw a lot of web sites including a few that Timm sent, but TImm found one that I had not seen. Many Thanks, Timmo! The minor trivia in the web site that solved the problem was… 13mm. I’ve been driving Volks products for years. Plastic pieces all fall off, but the cars hold the road extremely well. Last time I had a Chevy was 40 years ago (a ’56 210 for you classic car buffs). When did Chevy go metric?! On the Astro hood I went through several SAE sockets. Either didn’t fit or slipped. I thought it was the angle of the socket wrench extender to the bolts. Put in the 13mm, and out came the bolts. Hood is open. Some assembly required. Now all I need is Jerry’s technique for attaching battens with epoxy and pop rivets. I’m sure I can adapt something from that. Now on to the CAL 25 slider hatch. It is good to have momentous problems to solve, even in these difficult times. One more item on the hood. It was suggested that rather than go through the grief of replacing the hood release cable, Just attach a suitable end (possibly a split shot sinker) to a skinny cable, and let the cable hang out through the grill. A quick yank, and… I’m sure nobody is going to try to steal this puppy. Thanks, All Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Helen Horn Sent: Wednesday, November 09, 2011 11:29 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Two Questions Another idea; the cable may not be broken but stretched too far to trigger the release. So, disconnect the cable from the handle inside, take pair of small vise grips on the silver head on the end of the cable and take another pair of pliers and push the housing back towards the hood as you are pulling on the vise grips. This will trigger the hood release. Edward and Helen From: "Husar, Charlie [USA] (ASE)" <hu… [at] bah.com> To: "CAL Yahoo (Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com)" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Wednesday, November 9, 2011 1:38 PM Subject: [Cal_Boats] Two Questions Hi, All. I am coming to the Group for expertise on a couple of unrelated items. Both are boat repair related in a way (sailing content as our BC used to require). 1. I have a 95 Chevy Astro Van that I use to cart big pieces to and from boat yards and docks (sailing content). The cable to open the hood apparently got detached from the hood latch. I cannot open the hood. Have tried the jigglings up and down. The latch at the hood front releases the second detent, but the interior-activated cable must first get me past the first detent. The grill has a couple hold-down screws under the hood, so I cannot remove the grill. There are two hex head screws that hold the hood latch in place, but I need to get in about 10 inches to reach them. So far, the bolt heads are slipping off my socket wrench with long extender. There is an angle between the access entry and the hex heads. (I get access by spreading the plastic grill gins). I tried one of those double knuckle sockets, but it hard to get enough pressure. I am going through all this discussion to show I have exhausted all my own suggestions. Anybody, got a quick, devious way to pop the hood on 1995 Chevy Astro Van? 2. The slider main hatch on a CAL 25 (sailing content) is a devious animal. Much like the hood on the Astro, one must get into places where one cannot get into in order to rework or repair. There are multiple self-tap screws that pull out of the glas making the female slide element get stuck or come loose. One of things I need to do is to fill the (not deep) space behind the torn out screw holes so I can run a self-tapping screw back in. Not enough space to use a toggle bolt. I have tried extra layers of glas (can't build up too much or the whole thing won't work) and foaming fillers. The space to fill is about 1" wide, by <.5 in deep, by about 20" long. It is where the female slider attaches to the back section of the sliding/lifting hatch. Epoxy with filler seems too brittle unless there is a filler that makes it more supple. I do need a material that starts as liquid since I can only go in through the stripped screw holes. No other access. What is a good filler to use for threading purposes.? Boy, are my fingers tired. Cheers Charlie

Maybe go old school and get these? Top of Form [C-AJJ3381 BONNET STRAP TAN S/T REPRO, SOLD INDIVIDUALLY]<http://www.minimania.com/web/item/C-AJJ3381/LargePic.cfm?LargeImage=c-ajj3381.jpg&Partno=BONNET%20STRAP%20TAN%20S%2FT%20REPRO%2C%20SOLD%20INDIVIDUALLY> Click Image for Larger View [C-AJJ3381 BONNET STRAP TAN S/T REPRO, SOLD INDIVIDUALLY]<http://www.minimania.com/web/item/C-AJJ3381/LargePic.cfm?LargeImage=c-ajj3381a.jpg&Partno=BONNET%20STRAP%20TAN%20S%2FT%20REPRO%2C%20SOLD%20INDIVIDUALLY> Click Image for Larger View BONNET STRAP TAN S/T REPRO, SOLD INDIVIDUALLY This very heavy duty bonnet strap is a excellent reproduction of the original factory Special Tuning department special. Tan leather with alloy fastening. Screws included. Bottom of Form Cheers, [cid:image005.png@01CBF93B.85770E70] Timm Lessley 503.863.4019 Cell to cell calls From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Husar, Charlie [USA] (ASE) Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2011 7:28 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] Two Questions Thanks for Astro Van hood responses, Folks. I had tried the handle stuff (actually busted it off and pulled on the cable like the dickens while trying to keep the cable collar in place). Also saw a lot of web sites including a few that Timm sent, but TImm found one that I had not seen. Many Thanks, Timmo! The minor trivia in the web site that solved the problem was… 13mm. I’ve been driving Volks products for years. Plastic pieces all fall off, but the cars hold the road extremely well. Last time I had a Chevy was 40 years ago (a ’56 210 for you classic car buffs). When did Chevy go metric?! On the Astro hood I went through several SAE sockets. Either didn’t fit or slipped. I thought it was the angle of the socket wrench extender to the bolts. Put in the 13mm, and out came the bolts. Hood is open. Some assembly required. Now all I need is Jerry’s technique for attaching battens with epoxy and pop rivets. I’m sure I can adapt something from that. Now on to the CAL 25 slider hatch. It is good to have momentous problems to solve, even in these difficult times. One more item on the hood. It was suggested that rather than go through the grief of replacing the hood release cable, Just attach a suitable end (possibly a split shot sinker) to a skinny cable, and let the cable hang out through the grill. A quick yank, and… I’m sure nobody is going to try to steal this puppy. Thanks, All Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Helen Horn Sent: Wednesday, November 09, 2011 11:29 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Two Questions Another idea; the cable may not be broken but stretched too far to trigger the release. So, disconnect the cable from the handle inside, take pair of small vise grips on the silver head on the end of the cable and take another pair of pliers and push the housing back towards the hood as you are pulling on the vise grips. This will trigger the hood release. Edward and Helen From: "Husar, Charlie [USA] (ASE)" <hu… [at] bah.com> To: "CAL Yahoo (Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com)" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Wednesday, November 9, 2011 1:38 PM Subject: [Cal_Boats] Two Questions Hi, All. I am coming to the Group for expertise on a couple of unrelated items. Both are boat repair related in a way (sailing content as our BC used to require). 1. I have a 95 Chevy Astro Van that I use to cart big pieces to and from boat yards and docks (sailing content). The cable to open the hood apparently got detached from the hood latch. I cannot open the hood. Have tried the jigglings up and down. The latch at the hood front releases the second detent, but the interior-activated cable must first get me past the first detent. The grill has a couple hold-down screws under the hood, so I cannot remove the grill. There are two hex head screws that hold the hood latch in place, but I need to get in about 10 inches to reach them. So far, the bolt heads are slipping off my socket wrench with long extender. There is an angle between the access entry and the hex heads. (I get access by spreading the plastic grill gins). I tried one of those double knuckle sockets, but it hard to get enough pressure. I am going through all this discussion to show I have exhausted all my own suggestions. Anybody, got a quick, devious way to pop the hood on 1995 Chevy Astro Van? 2. The slider main hatch on a CAL 25 (sailing content) is a devious animal. Much like the hood on the Astro, one must get into places where one cannot get into in order to rework or repair. There are multiple self-tap screws that pull out of the glas making the female slide element get stuck or come loose. One of things I need to do is to fill the (not deep) space behind the torn out screw holes so I can run a self-tapping screw back in. Not enough space to use a toggle bolt. I have tried extra layers of glas (can't build up too much or the whole thing won't work) and foaming fillers. The space to fill is about 1" wide, by <.5 in deep, by about 20" long. It is where the female slider attaches to the back section of the sliding/lifting hatch. Epoxy with filler seems too brittle unless there is a filler that makes it more supple. I do need a material that starts as liquid since I can only go in through the stripped screw holes. No other access. What is a good filler to use for threading purposes.? Boy, are my fingers tired. Cheers Charlie

Ahhh, those Brits. Can I get them in metric or SAE? Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ti… [at] ch2m.com Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2011 9:36 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] Two Questions Maybe go old school and get these? Top of Form [Description: C-AJJ3381 BONNET STRAP TAN S/T REPRO, SOLD INDIVIDUALLY]<http://www.minimania.com/web/item/C-AJJ3381/LargePic.cfm?LargeImage=c-ajj3381.jpg&Partno=BONNET%20STRAP%20TAN%20S%2FT%20REPRO%2C%20SOLD%20INDIVIDUALLY> Click Image for Larger View [Description: C-AJJ3381 BONNET STRAP TAN S/T REPRO, SOLD INDIVIDUALLY]<http://www.minimania.com/web/item/C-AJJ3381/LargePic.cfm?LargeImage=c-ajj3381a.jpg&Partno=BONNET%20STRAP%20TAN%20S%2FT%20REPRO%2C%20SOLD%20INDIVIDUALLY> Click Image for Larger View BONNET STRAP TAN S/T REPRO, SOLD INDIVIDUALLY This very heavy duty bonnet strap is a excellent reproduction of the original factory Special Tuning department special. Tan leather with alloy fastening. Screws included. Bottom of Form Cheers, [Description: cid:image005.png@01CBF93B.85770E70] Timm Lessley 503.863.4019 Cell to cell calls From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Husar, Charlie [USA] (ASE) Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2011 7:28 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] Two Questions Thanks for Astro Van hood responses, Folks. I had tried the handle stuff (actually busted it off and pulled on the cable like the dickens while trying to keep the cable collar in place). Also saw a lot of web sites including a few that Timm sent, but TImm found one that I had not seen. Many Thanks, Timmo! The minor trivia in the web site that solved the problem was… 13mm. I’ve been driving Volks products for years. Plastic pieces all fall off, but the cars hold the road extremely well. Last time I had a Chevy was 40 years ago (a ’56 210 for you classic car buffs). When did Chevy go metric?! On the Astro hood I went through several SAE sockets. Either didn’t fit or slipped. I thought it was the angle of the socket wrench extender to the bolts. Put in the 13mm, and out came the bolts. Hood is open. Some assembly required. Now all I need is Jerry’s technique for attaching battens with epoxy and pop rivets. I’m sure I can adapt something from that. Now on to the CAL 25 slider hatch. It is good to have momentous problems to solve, even in these difficult times. One more item on the hood. It was suggested that rather than go through the grief of replacing the hood release cable, Just attach a suitable end (possibly a split shot sinker) to a skinny cable, and let the cable hang out through the grill. A quick yank, and… I’m sure nobody is going to try to steal this puppy. Thanks, All Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Helen Horn Sent: Wednesday, November 09, 2011 11:29 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Two Questions Another idea; the cable may not be broken but stretched too far to trigger the release. So, disconnect the cable from the handle inside, take pair of small vise grips on the silver head on the end of the cable and take another pair of pliers and push the housing back towards the hood as you are pulling on the vise grips. This will trigger the hood release. Edward and Helen From: "Husar, Charlie [USA] (ASE)" <hu… [at] bah.com> To: "CAL Yahoo (Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com)" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Wednesday, November 9, 2011 1:38 PM Subject: [Cal_Boats] Two Questions Hi, All. I am coming to the Group for expertise on a couple of unrelated items. Both are boat repair related in a way (sailing content as our BC used to require). 1. I have a 95 Chevy Astro Van that I use to cart big pieces to and from boat yards and docks (sailing content). The cable to open the hood apparently got detached from the hood latch. I cannot open the hood. Have tried the jigglings up and down. The latch at the hood front releases the second detent, but the interior-activated cable must first get me past the first detent. The grill has a couple hold-down screws under the hood, so I cannot remove the grill. There are two hex head screws that hold the hood latch in place, but I need to get in about 10 inches to reach them. So far, the bolt heads are slipping off my socket wrench with long extender. There is an angle between the access entry and the hex heads. (I get access by spreading the plastic grill gins). I tried one of those double knuckle sockets, but it hard to get enough pressure. I am going through all this discussion to show I have exhausted all my own suggestions. Anybody, got a quick, devious way to pop the hood on 1995 Chevy Astro Van? 2. The slider main hatch on a CAL 25 (sailing content) is a devious animal. Much like the hood on the Astro, one must get into places where one cannot get into in order to rework or repair. There are multiple self-tap screws that pull out of the glas making the female slide element get stuck or come loose. One of things I need to do is to fill the (not deep) space behind the torn out screw holes so I can run a self-tapping screw back in. Not enough space to use a toggle bolt. I have tried extra layers of glas (can't build up too much or the whole thing won't work) and foaming fillers. The space to fill is about 1" wide, by <.5 in deep, by about 20" long. It is where the female slider attaches to the back section of the sliding/lifting hatch. Epoxy with filler seems too brittle unless there is a filler that makes it more supple. I do need a material that starts as liquid since I can only go in through the stripped screw holes. No other access. What is a good filler to use for threading purposes.? Boy, are my fingers tired. Cheers Charlie

Whitworth! Cheers, [cid:image005.png@01CBF93B.85770E70] Timm Lessley 503.863.4019 Cell to cell calls From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Husar, Charlie [USA] (ASE) Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2011 7:41 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] Two Questions Ahhh, those Brits. Can I get them in metric or SAE? Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ti… [at] ch2m.com Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2011 9:36 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] Two Questions Maybe go old school and get these? Top of Form [Description: C-AJJ3381 BONNET STRAP TAN S/T REPRO, SOLD INDIVIDUALLY]<http://www.minimania.com/web/item/C-AJJ3381/LargePic.cfm?LargeImage=c-ajj3381.jpg&Partno=BONNET%20STRAP%20TAN%20S%2FT%20REPRO%2C%20SOLD%20INDIVIDUALLY> Click Image for Larger View [Description: C-AJJ3381 BONNET STRAP TAN S/T REPRO, SOLD INDIVIDUALLY]<http://www.minimania.com/web/item/C-AJJ3381/LargePic.cfm?LargeImage=c-ajj3381a.jpg&Partno=BONNET%20STRAP%20TAN%20S%2FT%20REPRO%2C%20SOLD%20INDIVIDUALLY> Click Image for Larger View BONNET STRAP TAN S/T REPRO, SOLD INDIVIDUALLY This very heavy duty bonnet strap is a excellent reproduction of the original factory Special Tuning department special. Tan leather with alloy fastening. Screws included. Bottom of Form Cheers, [Description: cid:image005.png@01CBF93B.85770E70] Timm Lessley 503.863.4019 Cell to cell calls From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Husar, Charlie [USA] (ASE) Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2011 7:28 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] Two Questions Thanks for Astro Van hood responses, Folks. I had tried the handle stuff (actually busted it off and pulled on the cable like the dickens while trying to keep the cable collar in place). Also saw a lot of web sites including a few that Timm sent, but TImm found one that I had not seen. Many Thanks, Timmo! The minor trivia in the web site that solved the problem was… 13mm. I’ve been driving Volks products for years. Plastic pieces all fall off, but the cars hold the road extremely well. Last time I had a Chevy was 40 years ago (a ’56 210 for you classic car buffs). When did Chevy go metric?! On the Astro hood I went through several SAE sockets. Either didn’t fit or slipped. I thought it was the angle of the socket wrench extender to the bolts. Put in the 13mm, and out came the bolts. Hood is open. Some assembly required. Now all I need is Jerry’s technique for attaching battens with epoxy and pop rivets. I’m sure I can adapt something from that. Now on to the CAL 25 slider hatch. It is good to have momentous problems to solve, even in these difficult times. One more item on the hood. It was suggested that rather than go through the grief of replacing the hood release cable, Just attach a suitable end (possibly a split shot sinker) to a skinny cable, and let the cable hang out through the grill. A quick yank, and… I’m sure nobody is going to try to steal this puppy. Thanks, All Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Helen Horn Sent: Wednesday, November 09, 2011 11:29 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Two Questions Another idea; the cable may not be broken but stretched too far to trigger the release. So, disconnect the cable from the handle inside, take pair of small vise grips on the silver head on the end of the cable and take another pair of pliers and push the housing back towards the hood as you are pulling on the vise grips. This will trigger the hood release. Edward and Helen From: "Husar, Charlie [USA] (ASE)" <hu… [at] bah.com> To: "CAL Yahoo (Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com)" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Wednesday, November 9, 2011 1:38 PM Subject: [Cal_Boats] Two Questions Hi, All. I am coming to the Group for expertise on a couple of unrelated items. Both are boat repair related in a way (sailing content as our BC used to require). 1. I have a 95 Chevy Astro Van that I use to cart big pieces to and from boat yards and docks (sailing content). The cable to open the hood apparently got detached from the hood latch. I cannot open the hood. Have tried the jigglings up and down. The latch at the hood front releases the second detent, but the interior-activated cable must first get me past the first detent. The grill has a couple hold-down screws under the hood, so I cannot remove the grill. There are two hex head screws that hold the hood latch in place, but I need to get in about 10 inches to reach them. So far, the bolt heads are slipping off my socket wrench with long extender. There is an angle between the access entry and the hex heads. (I get access by spreading the plastic grill gins). I tried one of those double knuckle sockets, but it hard to get enough pressure. I am going through all this discussion to show I have exhausted all my own suggestions. Anybody, got a quick, devious way to pop the hood on 1995 Chevy Astro Van? 2. The slider main hatch on a CAL 25 (sailing content) is a devious animal. Much like the hood on the Astro, one must get into places where one cannot get into in order to rework or repair. There are multiple self-tap screws that pull out of the glas making the female slide element get stuck or come loose. One of things I need to do is to fill the (not deep) space behind the torn out screw holes so I can run a self-tapping screw back in. Not enough space to use a toggle bolt. I have tried extra layers of glas (can't build up too much or the whole thing won't work) and foaming fillers. The space to fill is about 1" wide, by <.5 in deep, by about 20" long. It is where the female slider attaches to the back section of the sliding/lifting hatch. Epoxy with filler seems too brittle unless there is a filler that makes it more supple. I do need a material that starts as liquid since I can only go in through the stripped screw holes. No other access. What is a good filler to use for threading purposes.? Boy, are my fingers tired. Cheers Charlie

Thanks, Per…. I think… Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Per B. H. Curtiss Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2011 12:02 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Two Questions - Charlie Its been a number of years since I have read one of your emails Charlie, and you haven't changed!!! (grinning, grinning, grinning..........) Per Curtiss From: "Husar, Charlie [USA] (ASE)" <hu… [at] bah.com> To: "CAL Yahoo (Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com)" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Wednesday, November 9, 2011 1:38 PM Subject: [Cal_Boats] Two Questions Hi, All. I am coming to the Group for expertise on a couple of unrelated items. Both are boat repair related in a way (sailing content as our BC used to require). 1. I have a 95 Chevy Astro Van that I use to cart big pieces to and from boat yards and docks (sailing content). The cable to open the hood apparently got detached from the hood latch. I cannot open the hood. Have tried the jigglings up and down. The latch at the hood front releases the second detent, but the interior-activated cable must first get me past the first detent. The grill has a couple hold-down screws under the hood, so I cannot remove the grill. There are two hex head screws that hold the hood latch in place, but I need to get in about 10 inches to reach them. So far, the bolt heads are slipping off my socket wrench with long extender. There is an angle between the access entry and the hex heads. (I get access by spreading the plastic grill gins). I tried one of those double knuckle sockets, but it hard to get enough pressure. I am going through all this discussion to show I have exhausted all my own suggestions. Anybody, got a quick, devious way to pop the hood on 1995 Chevy Astro Van? 2. The slider main hatch on a CAL 25 (sailing content) is a devious animal. Much like the hood on the Astro, one must get into places where one cannot get into in order to rework or repair. There are multiple self-tap screws that pull out of the glas making the female slide element get stuck or come loose. One of things I need to do is to fill the (not deep) space behind the torn out screw holes so I can run a self-tapping screw back in. Not enough space to use a toggle bolt. I have tried extra layers of glas (can't build up too much or the whole thing won't work) and foaming fillers. The space to fill is about 1" wide, by <.5 in deep, by about 20" long. It is where the female slider attaches to the back section of the sliding/lifting hatch. Epoxy with filler seems too brittle unless there is a filler that makes it more supple. I do need a material that starts as liquid since I can only go in through the stripped screw holes. No other access. What is a good filler to use for threading purposes.? Boy, are my fingers tired. Cheers Charlie

What most all said is spot on. If you have the tools, you can also loosen the Hood Attach Plate, two rear, one forward. That is kinda overkill, I work on classic and show vehicles, we had one that was stuck at a show, loosened the front attach plate, butter knife, (well, was actually a metal shim that we keep for stuff like that), but a butter knife will suffice. The other one that said check cables and maybe use vise grips is also a good call. Is one of those I have to have my eyes on it to make the call. I have a 89 astro out front, just opened it up and looked. Ok, just tested it with disconnected release cable, push down on center of hood, while applying pressure, pull up or disengage the lock. (butter knife) and lift. Mine needed lubrication, that is a fail point on most all hood release mechanisms. What most everyone said is correct and should work, or go Top Fuel/Dukes of Hazzard style on it and cut an air intake in the center. That would be awseome! --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, <timmothy.lessley@...> wrote: > > Hard to picture both questions... Depending on the strength required (not life danger structural) 5 minute Gudgeon Bros epoxy is "flexible" rubbery. 610 in a caulking tube is also a bit flexy, predrilling would help keep it from shattering > > As for the car, looks like a shimmy or a coat hanger are some of the internet solutions. > > Can a coat hanger be used to pull (or push) the lever to the second detent? Can you see anything from under the vehicle? > on some cars/vans you can reach up from under vehicle to grab hood latch cable (or hood latch unit if cable is broken) and disengage. you may need a flashlight and it would help, especially if the cable is broken, to know exactly which direction to move unit to disengage. You may need to use some type of tool to reach desired location. there are many vehicles where this may not work. good luck. glennj69 > > You will need to go in from underneath, behind the front bumper. Use a coat hanger to catch and pull the release on the hood latch. Look for the cable to identify the area of the latch to pull. Read more: I have a broken hood latch cable for a 1992 Chevy Astro ext - JustAnswer<http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/1tia8-broken-hood-latch-cable-1992-chevy-astro-ext.html#ixzz1dFTCt8Ts> http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/1tia8-broken-hood-latch-cable-1992-chevy-astro-ext.html#ixzz1dFTCt8Ts > > Re: Broken Hood Cable<http://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=9031#p94127> > > [Post]<http://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.php?p=94127&sid=8b317f754f6deaf4a45012ea518c8677#p94127>by TheRealDaddy<http://www.astrosafari.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=4876&sid=8b317f754f6deaf4a45012ea518c8677> > September 18th 2010, 9:53pm > In my experience when the cable breaks it pulls out in your hand when you tug on it. If the cable returns on it's own or stops dead in it's tracks it's most likely not broken. Try getting a friend to push down on the hood while you try to release it, lift up on it, smack it around like a read headed step child. You know just experiment. I have one of these that sticks because the spring is a little weak and so if the latch isn't freshly lubricated it won't pop. The way I get it to pop is to pull and release the handle inside then I go out and smack the hood right in the center down by the grill with the side of my fist. Not real hard mind you just enough to knock it loose. This has been a trick I've used on many a GM over the years. (Think Fonzie from Happy Days if you will) > > I go crazy everytime I have to open the hood on my 98 Chevy<http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_to_open_hood_on_1990_Chevy_Astro_Van_when_cable_is_broken> Astro. The guys just say "oh it's a Chevy" and they bang the hood. I have found that if I stick a butter knife unde the hood I can open it. What a pain! > > > Read more: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_to_open_hood_on_1990_Chevy_Astro_Van_when_cable_is_broken#ixzz1dFUNz25w > > > > > > Cheers, > > [cid:image005.png@...] > Timm Lessley > 503.863.4019 Cell to cell calls > > From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Husar, Charlie [USA] (ASE) > Sent: Wednesday, November 09, 2011 2:39 PM > To: CAL Yahoo (Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com) > Subject: [Cal_Boats] Two Questions > > > > Hi, All. I am coming to the Group for expertise on a couple of unrelated items. Both are boat repair related in a way (sailing content as our BC used to require). > > 1. I have a 95 Chevy Astro Van that I use to cart big pieces to and from boat yards and docks (sailing content). The cable to open the hood apparently got detached from the hood latch. I cannot open the hood. Have tried the jigglings up and down. The latch at the hood front releases the second detent, but the interior-activated cable must first get me past the first detent. The grill has a couple hold-down screws under the hood, so I cannot remove the grill. There are two hex head screws that hold the hood latch in place, but I need to get in about 10 inches to reach them. So far, the bolt heads are slipping off my socket wrench with long extender. There is an angle between the access entry and the hex heads. (I get access by spreading the plastic grill gins). I tried one of those double knuckle sockets, but it hard to get enough pressure. I am going through all this discussion to show I have exhausted all my own suggestions. > > Anybody, got a quick, devious way to pop the hood on 1995 Chevy Astro Van? > > 2. The slider main hatch on a CAL 25 (sailing content) is a devious animal. Much like the hood on the Astro, one must get into places where one cannot get into in order to rework or repair. There are multiple self-tap screws that pull out of the glas making the female slide element get stuck or come loose. One of things I need to do is to fill the (not deep) space behind the torn out screw holes so I can run a self-tapping screw back in. Not enough space to use a toggle bolt. I have tried extra layers of glas (can't build up too much or the whole thing won't work) and foaming fillers. The space to fill is about 1" wide, by <.5 in deep, by about 20" long. It is where the female slider attaches to the back section of the sliding/lifting hatch. Epoxy with filler seems too brittle unless there is a filler that makes it more supple. I do need a material that starts as liquid since I can only go in through the stripped screw holes. No other access. > > What is a good filler to use for threading purposes.? > > Boy, are my fingers tired. > > Cheers > Charlie >

Hello Cal-List, It's been quite a while since I was last here, back in the SailNet days. I found the Yahoo group just a month or so ago and was just beginning to realize that for the most part this is the old SailNet group when I get the terrible news about Brian C. The new was staggering and I still don't know what to say. I will miss his wisdom greatly. For the past 10 years as I've undertaken various repairs I ask myself "How would Brian do this". Just knowing that if I got myself into a bind he was there somewhere to ask questions allowed me to undertake things I would normally pay a yard to do. I have the opportunity to basically trade my Catalina 27 for a T2, but am meeting resistance to this on the home front. Therefor, I've been spending quite a bit of time comparing the two boats to develop the appropriate arguments. She does have a point that the cockpit of the Catalina is larger, almost a foot. I can argue this by point out that that foot is in the cabin and point to the larger v-berth. I have no doubt that in every way the Cal is a superior boat, but she and my two boys are used to the Catalina and they don't care about how much better the boat sails or is built. But as I look at the boat, I can't work out where you store things like life jackets and fenders. I've gotten used to having 2 6 gallon plastic fuel tanks in the lazarette on the Catalina, where would I put these on the T2? Sadly, here in eastern Tennessee we have many more days of no wind than we do with wind so quite often when I can sail, I just motor down the river. It's nice to have that second tank, that way I always know I have enough fuel to get home. My primary race boat is my Ranger FUN 23, but just about this time of the year they drop the water level about 4 feet and I can't launch the FUN so in the winter, my portable swim platform becomes my race boat. But the primary reason for the larger boat is to basically be a portable swim platform and to go gunkholeing when I have my boys for more than just a weekend. So the larger boat MUST be able to "Cruise". I hate to say it, but it is looking like the Catalina fills this role better. So, any of you who have owned, do own, or have sailed on a Cal T2, If you could tell me where you put things like life jackets, fenders, fuel cans, swim toys on a T2 I would really appreciate it! Oh, is there really supposed to be a hump in the traveler track between the cockpit seats?? Thanks, Craig Johnson Current Boats:'83 Ranger FUN'79 Catalina 27 Previous Boats: (ok, my Dad's boats)'66 Cal 20'74 Cal 25'81 Cal 9.2

You're not alone Craig, I only joined this CAL website last week. When Sailnet went down, so did I. And on top of that, I regretfully sold my wonderful CAL 31 Leading Lady, left So. CA for Seattle and the PNW. I have a wall full of photos of various CAL weekends on Catalina Island, as well as local races with characters like David Owen, Chuck Lennox, Roger Jones, and Brian Cleverly, Kurt Ford, and others onboard. It ain't all bad, as now I wander through the islands of Puget Sound and British Columbia in my Cat Ketch, Freedom 44. Dragging along the kitchen sink, shower, freezer, etc, just doesn't have the simple wonderful touch of my old CAL. Per Curtiss Seattle >________________________________ >From: Craig Johnson <cr… [at] hotmail.com> >To: ca… [at] yahoogroups.com >Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2011 10:11 AM >Subject: [Cal_Boats] T2 Questions > > > >Hello Cal-List, > > >It's been quite a while since I was last here, back in the SailNet days. I found the Yahoo group just a month or so ago and was just beginning to realize that for the most part this is the old SailNet group when I get the terrible news about Brian C. The new was staggering and I still don't know what to say. I will miss his wisdom greatly. For the past 10 years as I've undertaken various repairs I ask myself "How would Brian do this". Just knowing that if I got myself into a bind he was there somewhere to ask questions allowed me to undertake things I would normally pay a yard to do. > > >I have the opportunity to basically trade my Catalina 27 for a T2, but am meeting resistance to this on the home front. Therefor, I've been spending quite a bit of time comparing the two boats to develop the appropriate arguments. She does have a point that the cockpit of the Catalina is larger, almost a foot. I can argue this by point out that that foot is in the cabin and point to the larger v-berth. I have no doubt that in every way the Cal is a superior boat, but she and my two boys are used to the Catalina and they don't care about how much better the boat sails or is built. But as I look at the boat, I can't work out where you store things like life jackets and fenders. I've gotten used to having 2 6 gallon plastic fuel tanks in the lazarette on the Catalina, where would I put these on the T2? Sadly, here in eastern Tennessee we have many more days of no wind than we do with wind so quite often when I can sail, I just motor down the river. It's nice to have that second tank, that way I always know I have enough fuel to get home. > > >My primary race boat is my Ranger FUN 23, but just about this time of the year they drop the water level about 4 feet and I can't launch the FUN so in the winter, my portable swim platform becomes my race boat. But the primary reason for the larger boat is to basically be a portable swim platform and to go gunkholeing when I have my boys for more than just a weekend. So the larger boat MUST be able to "Cruise". I hate to say it, but it is looking like the Catalina fills this role better. > > >So, any of you who have owned, do own, or have sailed on a Cal T2, If you could tell me where you put things like life jackets, fenders, fuel cans, swim toys on a T2 I would really appreciate it! > > >Oh, is there really supposed to be a hump in the traveler track between the cockpit seats?? > > >Thanks, >Craig Johnson > > >Current Boats: >'83 Ranger FUN >'79 Catalina 27 > > > >Previous Boats: (ok, my Dad's boats) >'66 Cal 20 >'74 Cal 25 >'81 Cal 9.2 > > >

Consider finding and buying a Cal 27 pop-top instead. I had one with an outboard. That left the "engine compartment" available for storage; it's open to the cabin. I placed a few big plastic milk crates in it, to keep the stuff neatly organized. When I wanted something, either I reached in for it or flipped up the step and slid the crates around until I could retrieve what I wanted. I could easily lift an entire crate out if necessary. This gave the boat more storage than anything else its size, without adding weight to the ends of the boat, which would have increased pitching. The flush deck allowed me to rig jibe preventers which didn't chafe a trunk cabin. I had an unobstructed view forward from the cockpit and a clear deck for sail-handling when the top was down, and had plenty of headroom plus a cool, breezy interior when the top was up. If it was chilly or windy when my wife was cooking dinner, we raised the rear of the pop-top and left the front down; we could both still stand up. Some pop-top owners had a canvas dodger which they put around the pop-top when it was raised, but we didn't bother to have one made. One of the nice features about the the pop-top model is that the side windows are at eye level when you're seated inside, so we could watch the action in the anchorage while eating. If you get a T2, have windows installed in the blank cabin sides. The pop-top model steers with a tiller, which is much more fun than a wheel. It sailed like a big dinghy and was more fun to sail than my Cal Cruising 36. It was seaworthy in the ocean (it sailed beautifully in 45 knots of wind in the Santa Barbara Channel on a reefed main only), and I raced informally against an 18-foot centerboarder in the narrow channels of Newport Bay. It was a boat for all purposes. I wish I hadn't sold it and moved up to the Cruising 36. -- Bob On 11/10/2011 10:11 AM, Craig Johnson wrote: > > Hello Cal-List, > > It's been quite a while since I was last here, back in the SailNet > days. I found the Yahoo group just a month or so ago and was just > beginning to realize that for the most part this is the old SailNet > group when I get the terrible news about Brian C. The new was > staggering and I still don't know what to say. I will miss his wisdom > greatly. For the past 10 years as I've undertaken various repairs I > ask myself "How would Brian do this". Just knowing that if I got > myself into a bind he was there somewhere to ask questions allowed me > to undertake things I would normally pay a yard to do. > > I have the opportunity to basically trade my Catalina 27 for a T2, but > am meeting resistance to this on the home front. Therefor, I've been > spending quite a bit of time comparing the two boats to develop > the appropriate arguments. She does have a point that the cockpit of > the Catalina is larger, almost a foot. I can argue this by point out > that that foot is in the cabin and point to the larger v-berth. I > have no doubt that in every way the Cal is a superior boat, but she > and my two boys are used to the Catalina and they don't care about how > much better the boat sails or is built. But as I look at the boat, I > can't work out where you store things like life jackets and fenders. > I've gotten used to having 2 6 gallon plastic fuel tanks in the > lazarette on the Catalina, where would I put these on the T2? Sadly, > here in eastern Tennessee we have many more days of no wind than we do > with wind so quite often when I can sail, I just motor down the river. > It's nice to have that second tank, that way I always know I have > enough fuel to get home. > > My primary race boat is my Ranger FUN 23, but just about this time of > the year they drop the water level about 4 feet and I can't launch the > FUN so in the winter, my portable swim platform becomes my race boat. > But the primary reason for the larger boat is to basically be a > portable swim platform and to go gunkholeing when I have my boys for > more than just a weekend. So the larger boat MUST be able to > "Cruise". I hate to say it, but it is looking like the Catalina fills > this role better. > > So, any of you who have owned, do own, or have sailed on a Cal T2, If > you could tell me where you put things like life jackets, fenders, > fuel cans, swim toys on a T2 I would really appreciate it! > > Oh, is there really supposed to be a hump in the traveler track > between the cockpit seats?? > > Thanks, > Craig Johnson > > Current Boats: > '83 Ranger FUN > '79 Catalina 27 > > Previous Boats: (ok, my Dad's boats) > '66 Cal 20 > '74 Cal 25 > '81 Cal 9.2 >

what engine does the T2 have? Ours is an inboard, so we don't carry extra fuel tanks. longer V-berth, which was a big deal to me. heavier construction so safer? Fenders in lazarette along with dock lines and anchor and deck brush, etc. Chateau l'Box in forward port settee. Inflatables in hanging locker. regular life jackets under v-berth. tools and spare parts on port side opposite battery. beer in icebox. trophies left at ho9me. Reggie CAL T/2 #98, "Knot Ready" To: ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: cr… [at] hotmail.com Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 13:11:28 -0500 Subject: [Cal_Boats] T2 Questions Hello Cal-List, It's been quite a while since I was last here, back in the SailNet days. I found the Yahoo group just a month or so ago and was just beginning to realize that for the most part this is the old SailNet group when I get the terrible news about Brian C. The new was staggering and I still don't know what to say. I will miss his wisdom greatly. For the past 10 years as I've undertaken various repairs I ask myself "How would Brian do this". Just knowing that if I got myself into a bind he was there somewhere to ask questions allowed me to undertake things I would normally pay a yard to do. I have the opportunity to basically trade my Catalina 27 for a T2, but am meeting resistance to this on the home front. Therefor, I've been spending quite a bit of time comparing the two boats to develop the appropriate arguments. She does have a point that the cockpit of the Catalina is larger, almost a foot. I can argue this by point out that that foot is in the cabin and point to the larger v-berth. I have no doubt that in every way the Cal is a superior boat, but she and my two boys are used to the Catalina and they don't care about how much better the boat sails or is built. But as I look at the boat, I can't work out where you store things like life jackets and fenders. I've gotten used to having 2 6 gallon plastic fuel tanks in the lazarette on the Catalina, where would I put these on the T2? Sadly, here in eastern Tennessee we have many more days of no wind than we do with wind so quite often when I can sail, I just motor down the river. It's nice to have that second tank, that way I always know I have enough fuel to get home. My primary race boat is my Ranger FUN 23, but just about this time of the year they drop the water level about 4 feet and I can't launch the FUN so in the winter, my portable swim platform becomes my race boat. But the primary reason for the larger boat is to basically be a portable swim platform and to go gunkholeing when I have my boys for more than just a weekend. So the larger boat MUST be able to "Cruise". I hate to say it, but it is looking like the Catalina fills this role better. So, any of you who have owned, do own, or have sailed on a Cal T2, If you could tell me where you put things like life jackets, fenders, fuel cans, swim toys on a T2 I would really appreciate it! Oh, is there really supposed to be a hump in the traveler track between the cockpit seats?? Thanks, Craig Johnson Current Boats: '83 Ranger FUN '79 Catalina 27 Previous Boats: (ok, my Dad's boats) '66 Cal 20 '74 Cal 25 '81 Cal 9.2

Hey Reggie, engine type is a bit of important info that I left out. This is an outboard version. So no built in tank with gauges. Thanks, Craig Johnson To: ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: my… [at] hotmail.com Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 13:30:47 -0700 Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] T2 Questions what engine does the T2 have? Ours is an inboard, so we don't carry extra fuel tanks. longer V-berth, which was a big deal to me. heavier construction so safer? Fenders in lazarette along with dock lines and anchor and deck brush, etc. Chateau l'Box in forward port settee. Inflatables in hanging locker. regular life jackets under v-berth. tools and spare parts on port side opposite battery. beer in icebox. trophies left at ho9me. Reggie CAL T/2 #98, "Knot Ready" To: ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: cr… [at] hotmail.com Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 13:11:28 -0500 Subject: [Cal_Boats] T2 Questions Hello Cal-List, It's been quite a while since I was last here, back in the SailNet days. I found the Yahoo group just a month or so ago and was just beginning to realize that for the most part this is the old SailNet group when I get the terrible news about Brian C. The new was staggering and I still don't know what to say. I will miss his wisdom greatly. For the past 10 years as I've undertaken various repairs I ask myself "How would Brian do this". Just knowing that if I got myself into a bind he was there somewhere to ask questions allowed me to undertake things I would normally pay a yard to do. I have the opportunity to basically trade my Catalina 27 for a T2, but am meeting resistance to this on the home front. Therefor, I've been spending quite a bit of time comparing the two boats to develop the appropriate arguments. She does have a point that the cockpit of the Catalina is larger, almost a foot. I can argue this by point out that that foot is in the cabin and point to the larger v-berth. I have no doubt that in every way the Cal is a superior boat, but she and my two boys are used to the Catalina and they don't care about how much better the boat sails or is built. But as I look at the boat, I can't work out where you store things like life jackets and fenders. I've gotten used to having 2 6 gallon plastic fuel tanks in the lazarette on the Catalina, where would I put these on the T2? Sadly, here in eastern Tennessee we have many more days of no wind than we do with wind so quite often when I can sail, I just motor down the river. It's nice to have that second tank, that way I always know I have enough fuel to get home. My primary race boat is my Ranger FUN 23, but just about this time of the year they drop the water level about 4 feet and I can't launch the FUN so in the winter, my portable swim platform becomes my race boat. But the primary reason for the larger boat is to basically be a portable swim platform and to go gunkholeing when I have my boys for more than just a weekend. So the larger boat MUST be able to "Cruise". I hate to say it, but it is looking like the Catalina fills this role better. So, any of you who have owned, do own, or have sailed on a Cal T2, If you could tell me where you put things like life jackets, fenders, fuel cans, swim toys on a T2 I would really appreciate it! Oh, is there really supposed to be a hump in the traveler track between the cockpit seats?? Thanks, Craig Johnson Current Boats: '83 Ranger FUN '79 Catalina 27 Previous Boats: (ok, my Dad's boats) '66 Cal 20 '74 Cal 25 '81 Cal 9.2

Best thread design Ever! Kevin On 11/10/2011 9:41 AM, ti… [at] ch2m.com wrote: > > Whitworth! > > Cheers, > > ** > > *cid:image005.png@01CBF93B.85770E70* > > *Timm Lessley* > > 503.863.4019 Cell to cell calls > > *From:*Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] > *On Behalf Of *Husar, Charlie [USA] (ASE) > *Sent:* Thursday, November 10, 2011 7:41 AM > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > *Subject:* RE: [Cal_Boats] Two Questions > > Ahhh, those Brits. Can I get them in metric or SAE? > > Cheers > > Charlie > > *From:*Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] > *On Behalf Of *ti… [at] ch2m.com > *Sent:* Thursday, November 10, 2011 9:36 AM > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > *Subject:* RE: [Cal_Boats] Two Questions > > > > > > Maybe go old school and get these? > > Top of Form > > Description: C-AJJ3381 BONNET STRAP TAN S/T REPRO, SOLD INDIVIDUALLY > <http://www.minimania.com/web/item/C-AJJ3381/LargePic.cfm?LargeImage=c-ajj3381.jpg&Partno=BONNET%20STRAP%20TAN%20S%2FT%20REPRO%2C%20SOLD%20INDIVIDUALLY> > Click Image for Larger View > > Description: C-AJJ3381 BONNET STRAP TAN S/T REPRO, SOLD INDIVIDUALLY > <http://www.minimania.com/web/item/C-AJJ3381/LargePic.cfm?LargeImage=c-ajj3381a.jpg&Partno=BONNET%20STRAP%20TAN%20S%2FT%20REPRO%2C%20SOLD%20INDIVIDUALLY> > Click Image for Larger View > > > > */BONNET STRAP TAN S/T REPRO, SOLD INDIVIDUALLY/* > > This very heavy duty bonnet strap is a excellent reproduction of the > original factory Special Tuning department special. Tan leather with > alloy fastening. Screws included. > > Bottom of Form > > Cheers, > > ** > > *Description: cid:image005.png@01CBF93B.85770E70* > > *Timm Lessley* > > 503.863.4019 Cell to cell calls > > *From:*Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] > *On Behalf Of *Husar, Charlie [USA] (ASE) > *Sent:* Thursday, November 10, 2011 7:28 AM > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > *Subject:* RE: [Cal_Boats] Two Questions > > Thanks for Astro Van hood responses, Folks. I had tried the handle > stuff (actually busted it off and pulled on the cable like the dickens > while trying to keep the cable collar in place). Also saw a lot of > web sites including a few that Timm sent, but TImm found one that I > had not seen. Many Thanks, Timmo! > > The minor trivia in the web site that solved the problem was… 13mm. > > I’ve been driving Volks products for years. Plastic pieces all fall > off, but the cars hold the road extremely well. Last time I had a > Chevy was 40 years ago (a ’56 210 for you classic car buffs). When > did Chevy go metric?! On the Astro hood I went through several SAE > sockets. Either didn’t fit or slipped. I thought it was the angle of > the socket wrench extender to the bolts. Put in the 13mm, and out > came the bolts. Hood is open. Some assembly required. > > Now all I need is Jerry’s technique for attaching battens with epoxy > and pop rivets. I’m sure I can adapt something from that. Now on to > the CAL 25 slider hatch. > > It is good to have momentous problems to solve, even in these > difficult times. One more item on the hood. It was suggested that > rather than go through the grief of replacing the hood release cable, > Just attach a suitable end (possibly a split shot sinker) to a skinny > cable, and let the cable hang out through the grill. A quick yank, > and… I’m sure nobody is going to try to steal this puppy. > > Thanks, All > > Cheers > > Charlie > > *From:*Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] > *On Behalf Of *Helen Horn > *Sent:* Wednesday, November 09, 2011 11:29 PM > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] Two Questions > > > > > Another idea; the cable may not be broken but stretched too far to > trigger the release. So, disconnect the cable from the handle inside, > take pair of small vise grips on the silver head on the end of the > cable and take another pair of pliers and push the housing back > towards the hood as you are pulling on the vise grips. This will > trigger the hood release. Edward and Helen > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > *From:*"Husar, Charlie [USA] (ASE)" <hu… [at] bah.com> > *To:* "CAL Yahoo (Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com)" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> > *Sent:* Wednesday, November 9, 2011 1:38 PM > *Subject:* [Cal_Boats] Two Questions > > Hi, All. I am coming to the Group for expertise on a couple of > unrelated items. Both are boat repair related in a way (sailing > content as our BC used to require). > > 1. I have a 95 Chevy Astro Van that I use to cart big pieces to and > from boat yards and docks (sailing content). The cable to open the > hood apparently got detached from the hood latch. I cannot open the > hood. Have tried the jigglings up and down. The latch at the hood > front releases the second detent, but the interior-activated cable > must first get me past the first detent. The grill has a couple > hold-down screws under the hood, so I cannot remove the grill. There > are two hex head screws that hold the hood latch in place, but I need > to get in about 10 inches to reach them. So far, the bolt heads are > slipping off my socket wrench with long extender. There is an angle > between the access entry and the hex heads. (I get access by spreading > the plastic grill gins). I tried one of those double knuckle sockets, > but it hard to get enough pressure. I am going through all this > discussion to show I have exhausted all my own suggestions. > > Anybody, got a quick, devious way to pop the hood on 1995 Chevy Astro Van? > > 2. The slider main hatch on a CAL 25 (sailing content) is a devious > animal. Much like the hood on the Astro, one must get into places > where one cannot get into in order to rework or repair. There are > multiple self-tap screws that pull out of the glas making the female > slide element get stuck or come loose. One of things I need to do is > to fill the (not deep) space behind the torn out screw holes so I can > run a self-tapping screw back in. Not enough space to use a toggle > bolt. I have tried extra layers of glas (can't build up too much or > the whole thing won't work) and foaming fillers. The space to fill is > about 1" wide, by <.5 in deep, by about 20" long. It is where the > female slider attaches to the back section of the sliding/lifting > hatch. Epoxy with filler seems too brittle unless there is a filler > that makes it more supple. I do need a material that starts as liquid > since I can only go in through the stripped screw holes. No other access. > > What is a good filler to use for threading purposes.? > > Boy, are my fingers tired. > > Cheers > Charlie > > > > > > > > > >