stanchions

I have a couple stanchions with broken welds at the bases. I could remove them and have them welded, which has already been done to one or two. However, the bases also appear to have been tweeked. So, I've decided to buy new from Garhauer. they offer standard and heavy duty. Knowing how Garhauer builds stuff, the heavy duty must be really tough, so that's what I am ordering. I, however, neglected to note whether the bases are attached at 90 degrees to the stanchions, or with some degree offset to compensate for the curve of the deck. Which creates a problem when the boat is almost 3000 miles away. I've looked at my pictures but they don't show as much as I would like. Anybody have any info or guesses? Reggie

Reggie, I had Garhauer make stations for Holiday (see attached). I bought the style that has separate base with removable stanchion. (love them!) I sent Garhauer the angle that I had measured. Our cabin houses are different but pretty certain our decks are the same. Garharauer is great to work with. I was put in touch with the guy in the shop who makes them, his name is Guido. If you call him they probably have a record of my measurements. I think it was 2006 that I made the purchase. He makes them when ordered (Robinsion in Orangevale, CA). A friend received angle that he didn't like, Guido fixed it, no problems. By the Way thanks much for the tip on ActiveCaptain....is is awesome! Mike Robinson To: ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: my… [at] hotmail.com Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2011 08:40:03 -0700 Subject: [Cal_Boats] stanchions I have a couple stanchions with broken welds at the bases. I could remove them and have them welded, which has already been done to one or two. However, the bases also appear to have been tweeked. So, I've decided to buy new from Garhauer. they offer standard and heavy duty. Knowing how Garhauer builds stuff, the heavy duty must be really tough, so that's what I am ordering. I, however, neglected to note whether the bases are attached at 90 degrees to the stanchions, or with some degree offset to compensate for the curve of the deck. Which creates a problem when the boat is almost 3000 miles away. I've looked at my pictures but they don't show as much as I would like. Anybody have any info or guesses? Reggie

I got all new last year from Garhauer... removable base. If you go on their site, they show the standard angle... I got the least standard angle for my Pearson P36-2 and all worked out well. They look great. Also, don't forget to order the backing plates a $5 per. Garhauer people are great to work with. Good Luck From: Michael Robinson Date: Tuesday, December 27, 2011 11:30 am Subject: FW: [Cal_Boats] stanchions [2 Attachments] To: Cal boats List > > Reggie, > > > > > I had Garhauer make stations for Holiday (see attached). I > bought the style that has separate base with removable > stanchion. (love them!) I sent Garhauer the angle that I had > measured. Our cabin houses are different but pretty certain our > decks are the same. > > Garharauer is great to work with. I was put in touch with the > guy in the shop who makes them, his name is Guido. If you call > him they probably have a record of my measurements. I think it > was 2006 that I made the purchase. He makes them when ordered > (Robinsion in Orangevale, CA). A friend received angle that he > didn't like, Guido fixed it, no problems. > > By the Way thanks much for the tip on ActiveCaptain....is is awesome! > > > > > Mike Robinson > > > > > > > > To: ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > From: my… [at] hotmail.com > Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2011 08:40:03 -0700 > Subject: [Cal_Boats] stanchions > > > > > > > > > I have a couple stanchions with broken welds at the bases. I > could remove them and have them welded, which has already been > done to one or two. However, the bases also appear to have been > tweeked. So, I've decided to buy new from Garhauer. they offer > standard and heavy duty. Knowing how Garhauer builds stuff, the > heavy duty must be really tough, so that's what I am ordering. > I, however, neglected to note whether the bases are attached at > 90 degrees to the stanchions, or with some degree offset to > compensate for the curve of the deck. Which creates a problem > when the boat is almost 3000 miles away. I've looked at my > pictures but they don't show as much as I would like. > Anybody have any info or guesses? > Reggie > > > > >

Our side decks should be the same. do you recall what angle you specified/chose? And why did you choose removable bases? Reggie To: ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: mi… [at] hotmail.com Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2011 16:29:32 +0000 Subject: FW: [Cal_Boats] stanchions [2 Attachments] [Attachment(s) from Michael Robinson included below] Reggie, I had Garhauer make stations for Holiday (see attached). I bought the style that has separate base with removable stanchion. (love them!) I sent Garhauer the angle that I had measured. Our cabin houses are different but pretty certain our decks are the same. Garharauer is great to work with. I was put in touch with the guy in the shop who makes them, his name is Guido. If you call him they probably have a record of my measurements. I think it was 2006 that I made the purchase. He makes them when ordered (Robinsion in Orangevale, CA). A friend received angle that he didn't like, Guido fixed it, no problems. By the Way thanks much for the tip on ActiveCaptain....is is awesome! Mike Robinson To: ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: my… [at] hotmail.com Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2011 08:40:03 -0700 Subject: [Cal_Boats] stanchions I have a couple stanchions with broken welds at the bases. I could remove them and have them welded, which has already been done to one or two. However, the bases also appear to have been tweeked. So, I've decided to buy new from Garhauer. they offer standard and heavy duty. Knowing how Garhauer builds stuff, the heavy duty must be really tough, so that's what I am ordering. I, however, neglected to note whether the bases are attached at 90 degrees to the stanchions, or with some degree offset to compensate for the curve of the deck. Which creates a problem when the boat is almost 3000 miles away. I've looked at my pictures but they don't show as much as I would like. Anybody have any info or guesses? Reggie

I don't recall the angle but I think they have a record of it. I chose removable for two reasons:Easier to replace if bent/damaged.Could remove if wanted/needed access to load or unload something big. Mike To: ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: my… [at] hotmail.com Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2011 10:03:31 -0700 Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] stanchions Our side decks should be the same. do you recall what angle you specified/chose? And why did you choose removable bases? Reggie To: ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: mi… [at] hotmail.com Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2011 16:29:32 +0000 Subject: FW: [Cal_Boats] stanchions [2 Attachments] [Attachment(s) from Michael Robinson included below] Reggie, I had Garhauer make stations for Holiday (see attached). I bought the style that has separate base with removable stanchion. (love them!) I sent Garhauer the angle that I had measured. Our cabin houses are different but pretty certain our decks are the same. Garharauer is great to work with. I was put in touch with the guy in the shop who makes them, his name is Guido. If you call him they probably have a record of my measurements. I think it was 2006 that I made the purchase. He makes them when ordered (Robinsion in Orangevale, CA). A friend received angle that he didn't like, Guido fixed it, no problems. By the Way thanks much for the tip on ActiveCaptain....is is awesome! Mike Robinson To: ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: my… [at] hotmail.com Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2011 08:40:03 -0700 Subject: [Cal_Boats] stanchions I have a couple stanchions with broken welds at the bases. I could remove them and have them welded, which has already been done to one or two. However, the bases also appear to have been tweeked. So, I've decided to buy new from Garhauer. they offer standard and heavy duty. Knowing how Garhauer builds stuff, the heavy duty must be really tough, so that's what I am ordering. I, however, neglected to note whether the bases are attached at 90 degrees to the stanchions, or with some degree offset to compensate for the curve of the deck. Which creates a problem when the boat is almost 3000 miles away. I've looked at my pictures but they don't show as much as I would like. Anybody have any info or guesses? Reggie

Mike, did Garhauer make your bow pulpit also? We were sideswiped by a monster ferro-cement sailboat whose brand new bombproof ladder was just installed on the stern quarter. It wiped out 1/2 the bow metal (original) and broke two of the "kittypaw" shaped feet on one side...we are going to get one rebuilt. (cal 36) if so, do they do either fixed or removeable bases? Helen and Ed From: Michael Robinson <mi… [at] hotmail.com> To: Cal boats List <ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2011 9:35 AM Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] stanchions I don't recall the angle but I think they have a record of it. I chose removable for two reasons: * Easier to replace if bent/damaged. * Could remove if wanted/needed access to load or unload something big. Mike To: ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: my… [at] hotmail.com Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2011 10:03:31 -0700 Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] stanchions Our side decks should be the same. do you recall what angle you specified/chose? And why did you choose removable bases? Reggie To: ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: mi… [at] hotmail.com Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2011 16:29:32 +0000 Subject: FW: [Cal_Boats] stanchions [2 Attachments] [Attachment(s) from Michael Robinson included below] Reggie, I had Garhauer make stations for Holiday (see attached). I bought the style that has separate base with removable stanchion. (love them!) I sent Garhauer the angle that I had measured. Our cabin houses are different but pretty certain our decks are the same. Garharauer is great to work with. I was put in touch with the guy in the shop who makes them, his name is Guido. If you call him they probably have a record of my measurements. I think it was 2006 that I made the purchase. He makes them when ordered (Robinsion in Orangevale, CA). A friend received angle that he didn't like, Guido fixed it, no problems. By the Way thanks much for the tip on ActiveCaptain....is is awesome! Mike Robinson To: ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: my… [at] hotmail.com Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2011 08:40:03 -0700 Subject: [Cal_Boats] stanchions I have a couple stanchions with broken welds at the bases. I could remove them and have them welded, which has already been done to one or two. However, the bases also appear to have been tweeked. So, I've decided to buy new from Garhauer. they offer standard and heavy duty. Knowing how Garhauer builds stuff, the heavy duty must be really tough, so that's what I am ordering. I, however, neglected to note whether the bases are attached at 90 degrees to the stanchions, or with some degree offset to compensate for the curve of the deck. Which creates a problem when the boat is almost 3000 miles away. I've looked at my pictures but they don't show as much as I would like. Anybody have any info or guesses? Reggie

Helen and Ed, Ouch! Hit by a floating sidewalk! I sailed to Hawaii on one, 15 days SF to Hilo on Starshine 55 feet. My bow pulpit was modified by Craig at Metal Magic in Oakland. He also did the Ss handrails. He is very good and reasonable too. Pulpit not in removable bases. Someone mentioned backing plates; I used 1/4 " G10 for all backing plates. Got it at International Plastics. On Dec 27, 2011, at 11:34 AM, "Helen Horn" <he… [at] sbcglobal.net> wrote: > > > Mike, did Garhauer make your bow pulpit also? We were sideswiped by a monster ferro-cement sailboat whose brand new bombproof ladder was just installed on the stern quarter. It wiped out 1/2 the bow metal (original) and broke two of the "kittypaw" shaped feet on one side...we are going to get one rebuilt. (cal 36) if so, do they do either fixed or removeable bases? Helen and Ed > > From: Michael Robinson <mi… [at] hotmail.com> > To: Cal boats List <ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2011 9:35 AM > Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] stanchions > > I don't recall the angle but I think they have a record of it. > > I chose removable for two reasons: > Easier to replace if bent/damaged. > Could remove if wanted/needed access to load or unload something big. > > Mike > > > > To: ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > From: my… [at] hotmail.com > Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2011 10:03:31 -0700 > Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] stanchions > > > > Our side decks should be the same. do you recall what angle you specified/chose? And why did you choose removable bases? > Reggie > > To: ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > From: mi… [at] hotmail.com > Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2011 16:29:32 +0000 > Subject: FW: [Cal_Boats] stanchions [2 Attachments] > > > [Attachment(s) from Michael Robinson included below] > Reggie, > I had Garhauer make stations for Holiday (see attached). I bought the style that has separate base with removable stanchion. (love them!) I sent Garhauer the angle that I had measured. Our cabin houses are different but pretty certain our decks are the same. > > Garharauer is great to work with. I was put in touch with the guy in the shop who makes them, his name is Guido. If you call him they probably have a record of my measurements. I think it was 2006 that I made the purchase. He makes them when ordered (Robinsion in Orangevale, CA). A friend received angle that he didn't like, Guido fixed it, no problems. > > By the Way thanks much for the tip on ActiveCaptain....is is awesome! > > Mike Robinson > > > > To: ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > From: my… [at] hotmail.com > Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2011 08:40:03 -0700 > Subject: [Cal_Boats] stanchions > > > > I have a couple stanchions with broken welds at the bases. I could remove them and have them welded, which has already been done to one or two. However, the bases also appear to have been tweeked. So, I've decided to buy new from Garhauer. they offer standard and heavy duty. Knowing how Garhauer builds stuff, the heavy duty must be really tough, so that's what I am ordering. > I, however, neglected to note whether the bases are attached at 90 degrees to the stanchions, or with some degree offset to compensate for the curve of the deck. Which creates a problem when the boat is almost 3000 miles away. I've looked at my pictures but they don't show as much as I would like. > Anybody have any info or guesses? > Reggie > > > > > > > > > > >

Reggie, My bases were tweeked too when I sent them to the welder but with the tweeks, the alignment was perfect for my boat. I think Cal tweeked them when they installed them to get the proper alignment. My weld flattened out the bases which threw out the alignment and I had to tweek them back to their original shape. So you may want to keep the 'tweeked' geometry when you order new ones. Dave 80 Cal 35 Runnin Late SF Bay

Thanks Mike, will contact him. I like backing plates, put them on the 29 stanchions before we sold her. Picked them up at Minney's and yard sales to match holes. They make for a nice clean fitting and even compression. Helen From: Michael Robinson <mi… [at] hotmail.com> To: "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2011 12:08 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions Helen and Ed, Ouch! Hit by a floating sidewalk! I sailed to Hawaii on one, 15 days SF to Hilo on Starshine 55 feet. My bow pulpit was modified by Craig at Metal Magic in Oakland. He also did the Ss handrails. He is very good and reasonable too. Pulpit not in removable bases. Someone mentioned backing plates; I used 1/4 " G10 for all backing plates. Got it at International Plastics. On Dec 27, 2011, at 11:34 AM, "Helen Horn" <he… [at] sbcglobal.net> wrote: Mike, did Garhauer make your bow pulpit also? We were sideswiped by a monster ferro-cement sailboat whose brand new bombproof ladder was just installed on the stern quarter. It wiped out 1/2 the bow metal (original) and broke two of the "kittypaw" shaped feet on one side...we are going to get one rebuilt. (cal 36) if so, do they do either fixed or removeable bases? Helen and Ed > > > > >________________________________ > From: Michael Robinson <mi… [at] hotmail.com> >To: Cal boats List <ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> >Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2011 9:35 AM >Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] stanchions > > > >I don't recall the angle but I think they have a record of it. > > >I chose removable for two reasons: > * Easier to replace if bent/damaged. > * Could remove if wanted/needed access to load or unload something big. > >Mike > > > > >________________________________ >To: ca… [at] yahoogroups.com >From: my… [at] hotmail.com >Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2011 10:03:31 -0700 >Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] stanchions > > > > >Our side decks should be the same. do you recall what angle you specified/chose? And why did you choose removable bases? >Reggie > > > >________________________________ > To: ca… [at] yahoogroups.com >From: mi… [at] hotmail.com >Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2011 16:29:32 +0000 >Subject: FW: [Cal_Boats] stanchions [2 Attachments] > > >[Attachment(s) from Michael Robinson included below] >Reggie, >I had Garhauer make stations for Holiday (see attached). I bought the style that has separate base with removable stanchion. (love them!) I sent Garhauer the angle that I had measured. Our cabin houses are different but pretty certain our decks are the same. > >Garharauer is great to work with. I was put in touch with the guy in the shop who makes them, his name is Guido. If you call him they probably have a record of my measurements. I think it was 2006 that I made the purchase. He makes them when ordered (Robinsion in Orangevale, CA). A friend received angle that he didn't like, Guido fixed it, no problems. > >By the Way thanks much for the tip on ActiveCaptain....is is awesome! > > >Mike Robinson > > > > > >________________________________ > To: ca… [at] yahoogroups.com >From: my… [at] hotmail.com >Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2011 08:40:03 -0700 >Subject: [Cal_Boats] stanchions > > > > >I have a couple stanchions with broken welds at the bases. I could remove them and have them welded, which has already been done to one or two. However, the bases also appear to have been tweeked. So, I've decided to buy new from Garhauer. they offer standard and heavy duty. Knowing how Garhauer builds stuff, the heavy duty must be really tough, so that's what I am ordering. >I, however, neglected to note whether the bases are attached at 90 degrees to the stanchions, or with some degree offset to compensate for the curve of the deck. Which creates a problem when the boat is almost 3000 miles away. I've looked at my pictures but they don't show as much as I would like. >Anybody have any info or guesses? >Reggie > > > > > > > > >

I built my own backing plates for the T/2. Picked up aluminum plate scraps, 1/4 inch thick, at the local metal recycling place, then cut them on the table saw with an old carbide blade. worked great and inexpensive. My new Garhauer stanchions will come with backing plates. reggie To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: he… [at] sbcglobal.net Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2011 11:43:03 -0800 Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions Thanks Mike, will contact him. I like backing plates, put them on the 29 stanchions before we sold her. Picked them up at Minney's and yard sales to match holes. They make for a nice clean fitting and even compression. Helen From: Michael Robinson <mi… [at] hotmail.com> To: "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2011 12:08 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions Helen and Ed, Ouch! Hit by a floating sidewalk! I sailed to Hawaii on one, 15 days SF to Hilo on Starshine 55 feet. My bow pulpit was modified by Craig at Metal Magic in Oakland. He also did the Ss handrails. He is very good and reasonable too. Pulpit not in removable bases. Someone mentioned backing plates; I used 1/4 " G10 for all backing plates. Got it at International Plastics. On Dec 27, 2011, at 11:34 AM, "Helen Horn" <he… [at] sbcglobal.net> wrote: Mike, did Garhauer make your bow pulpit also? We were sideswiped by a monster ferro-cement sailboat whose brand new bombproof ladder was just installed on the stern quarter. It wiped out 1/2 the bow metal (original) and broke two of the "kittypaw" shaped feet on one side...we are going to get one rebuilt. (cal 36) if so, do they do either fixed or removeable bases? Helen and Ed From: Michael Robinson <mi… [at] hotmail.com> To: Cal boats List <ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2011 9:35 AM Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] stanchions I don't recall the angle but I think they have a record of it. I chose removable for two reasons: Easier to replace if bent/damaged. Could remove if wanted/needed access to load or unload something big. Mike To: ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: my… [at] hotmail.com Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2011 10:03:31 -0700 Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] stanchions Our side decks should be the same. do you recall what angle you specified/chose? And why did you choose removable bases? Reggie To: ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: mi… [at] hotmail.com Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2011 16:29:32 +0000 Subject: FW: [Cal_Boats] stanchions [2 Attachments] [Attachment(s) from Michael Robinson included below] Reggie, I had Garhauer make stations for Holiday (see attached). I bought the style that has separate base with removable stanchion. (love them!) I sent Garhauer the angle that I had measured. Our cabin houses are different but pretty certain our decks are the same. Garharauer is great to work with. I was put in touch with the guy in the shop who makes them, his name is Guido. If you call him they probably have a record of my measurements. I think it was 2006 that I made the purchase. He makes them when ordered (Robinsion in Orangevale, CA). A friend received angle that he didn't like, Guido fixed it, no problems. By the Way thanks much for the tip on ActiveCaptain....is is awesome! Mike Robinson To: ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: my… [at] hotmail.com Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2011 08:40:03 -0700 Subject: [Cal_Boats] stanchions I have a couple stanchions with broken welds at the bases. I could remove them and have them welded, which has already been done to one or two. However, the bases also appear to have been tweeked. So, I've decided to buy new from Garhauer. they offer standard and heavy duty. Knowing how Garhauer builds stuff, the heavy duty must be really tough, so that's what I am ordering. I, however, neglected to note whether the bases are attached at 90 degrees to the stanchions, or with some degree offset to compensate for the curve of the deck. Which creates a problem when the boat is almost 3000 miles away. I've looked at my pictures but they don't show as much as I would like. Anybody have any info or guesses? Reggie

Garhauer will make what you want. Cal gal has IPE "E-Pay" (like ironwood). This stuff is very cool and has amazing properties. Cheers, Timm Lessley (Sent from Blackberry) (503) 863-4019 From: r good [mailto:my… [at] hotmail.com] Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2011 12:46 PM To: ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] stanchions I built my own backing plates for the T/2. Picked up aluminum plate scraps, 1/4 inch thick, at the local metal recycling place, then cut them on the table saw with an old carbide blade. worked great and inexpensive. My new Garhauer stanchions will come with backing plates. reggie To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: he… [at] sbcglobal.net Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2011 11:43:03 -0800 Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions Thanks Mike, will contact him. I like backing plates, put them on the 29 stanchions before we sold her. Picked them up at Minney's and yard sales to match holes. They make for a nice clean fitting and even compression. Helen From: Michael Robinson <mi… [at] hotmail.com> To: "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2011 12:08 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions Helen and Ed, Ouch! Hit by a floating sidewalk! I sailed to Hawaii on one, 15 days SF to Hilo on Starshine 55 feet. My bow pulpit was modified by Craig at Metal Magic in Oakland. He also did the Ss handrails. He is very good and reasonable too. Pulpit not in removable bases. Someone mentioned backing plates; I used 1/4 " G10 for all backing plates. Got it at International Plastics. On Dec 27, 2011, at 11:34 AM, "Helen Horn" <he… [at] sbcglobal.net<mailto:he… [at] sbcglobal.net>> wrote: Mike, did Garhauer make your bow pulpit also? We were sideswiped by a monster ferro-cement sailboat whose brand new bombproof ladder was just installed on the stern quarter. It wiped out 1/2 the bow metal (original) and broke two of the "kittypaw" shaped feet on one side...we are going to get one rebuilt. (cal 36) if so, do they do either fixed or removeable bases? Helen and Ed From: Michael Robinson <mi… [at] hotmail.com<mailto:mi… [at] hotmail.com>> To: Cal boats List <ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:ca… [at] yahoogroups.com>> Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2011 9:35 AM Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] stanchions I don't recall the angle but I think they have a record of it. I chose removable for two reasons: * Easier to replace if bent/damaged. * Could remove if wanted/needed access to load or unload something big. Mike To: ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> From: my… [at] hotmail.com<mailto:my… [at] hotmail.com> Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2011 10:03:31 -0700 Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] stanchions Our side decks should be the same. do you recall what angle you specified/chose? And why did you choose removable bases? Reggie To: ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> From: mi… [at] hotmail.com<mailto:mi… [at] hotmail.com> Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2011 16:29:32 +0000 Subject: FW: [Cal_Boats] stanchions [2 Attachments] [Attachment(s)<http://bl144w.blu144.mail.live.com/mail/RteFrame_16.2.2978.1206.html?dl=dl#TopText> from Michael Robinson included below] Reggie, I had Garhauer make stations for Holiday (see attached). I bought the style that has separate base with removable stanchion. (love them!) I sent Garhauer the angle that I had measured. Our cabin houses are different but pretty certain our decks are the same. Garharauer is great to work with. I was put in touch with the guy in the shop who makes them, his name is Guido. If you call him they probably have a record of my measurements. I think it was 2006 that I made the purchase. He makes them when ordered (Robinsion in Orangevale, CA). A friend received angle that he didn't like, Guido fixed it, no problems. By the Way thanks much for the tip on ActiveCaptain....is is awesome! Mike Robinson To: ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> From: my… [at] hotmail.com<mailto:my… [at] hotmail.com> Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2011 08:40:03 -0700 Subject: [Cal_Boats] stanchions I have a couple stanchions with broken welds at the bases. I could remove them and have them welded, which has already been done to one or two. However, the bases also appear to have been tweeked. So, I've decided to buy new from Garhauer. they offer standard and heavy duty. Knowing how Garhauer builds stuff, the heavy duty must be really tough, so that's what I am ordering. I, however, neglected to note whether the bases are attached at 90 degrees to the stanchions, or with some degree offset to compensate for the curve of the deck. Which creates a problem when the boat is almost 3000 miles away. I've looked at my pictures but they don't show as much as I would like. Anybody have any info or guesses? Reggie

Take a look at specs on the G 10. it is VERY easy to cut and to work with. No moisture, no compression. http://www.interstateplastics.com/G-10-Glass-Epoxy-Sheet-PHEEG.php?sku=PHEEG&vid=201112291607-6p&dim2=12&dim3=12&thickness=0.750&qty=1 Mike Robinson To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: ti… [at] ch2m.com Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2011 20:19:11 +0000 Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions Garhauer will make what you want. Cal gal has IPE "E-Pay" (like ironwood). This stuff is very cool and has amazing properties. Cheers, Timm Lessley (Sent from Blackberry) (503) 863-4019 From: r good [mailto:my… [at] hotmail.com] Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2011 12:46 PM To: ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] stanchions I built my own backing plates for the T/2. Picked up aluminum plate scraps, 1/4 inch thick, at the local metal recycling place, then cut them on the table saw with an old carbide blade. worked great and inexpensive. My new Garhauer stanchions will come with backing plates. reggie To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: he… [at] sbcglobal.net Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2011 11:43:03 -0800 Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions Thanks Mike, will contact him. I like backing plates, put them on the 29 stanchions before we sold her. Picked them up at Minney's and yard sales to match holes. They make for a nice clean fitting and even compression. Helen From: Michael Robinson <mi… [at] hotmail.com> To: "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2011 12:08 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions Helen and Ed, Ouch! Hit by a floating sidewalk! I sailed to Hawaii on one, 15 days SF to Hilo on Starshine 55 feet. My bow pulpit was modified by Craig at Metal Magic in Oakland. He also did the Ss handrails. He is very good and reasonable too. Pulpit not in removable bases. Someone mentioned backing plates; I used 1/4 " G10 for all backing plates. Got it at International Plastics.

(Maichael) I Love the stanchions. Amazing, Garhaur has certainly out done itself, making a dorade vent that I could swear looks like a sea-dog with a post surgical collar onl It's really admirable! I wonder if they make one that's similar, only looking like one with a cat? Jerry From: Michael Robinson <mi… [at] hotmail.com> To: Cal boats List <ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2011 8:29 AM Subject: FW: [Cal_Boats] stanchions [2 Attachments] [Attachment(s) from Michael Robinson included below] Reggie, I had Garhauer make stations for Holiday (see attached). I bought the style that has separate base with removable stanchion. (love them!) I sent Garhauer the angle that I had measured. Our cabin houses are different but pretty certain our decks are the same. Garharauer is great to work with. I was put in touch with the guy in the shop who makes them, his name is Guido. If you call him they probably have a record of my measurements. I think it was 2006 that I made the purchase. He makes them when ordered (Robinsion in Orangevale, CA). A friend received angle that he didn't like, Guido fixed it, no problems. By the Way thanks much for the tip on ActiveCaptain....is is awesome! Mike Robinson To: ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: my… [at] hotmail.com Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2011 08:40:03 -0700 Subject: [Cal_Boats] stanchions I have a couple stanchions with broken welds at the bases. I could remove them and have them welded, which has already been done to one or two. However, the bases also appear to have been tweeked. So, I've decided to buy new from Garhauer. they offer standard and heavy duty. Knowing how Garhauer builds stuff, the heavy duty must be really tough, so that's what I am ordering. I, however, neglected to note whether the bases are attached at 90 degrees to the stanchions, or with some degree offset to compensate for the curve of the deck. Which creates a problem when the boat is almost 3000 miles away. I've looked at my pictures but they don't show as much as I would like. Anybody have any info or guesses? Reggie

On 12/29/2011 2:46 PM, r good wrote: > > /I built my own backing plates for the T/2. Picked up aluminum plate > scraps, 1/4 inch thick, at the local metal recycling place, then cut > them on the table saw with an old carbide blade. worked great and > inexpensive./ You can use some woodworking tools to work soft metals like aluminum, but you have to be very careful about cleanliness. Sparks from the process can ignite sawdust from previous woodworking. I had a belt sander ignite in this way. It was exacerbated by the little motor-cooling fan that had brought the sawdust inside in the first place. Had to run water over it to cool things down. It could be worse if you had a table saw with a big sawdust bin underneath. Chris Campbell > //

details omitted...probably unplugged it before hosing it down? A power strip with shutoff a safe distance away but reachable is advisable. Grinders are also spark-causing..someone I know almost burned down a three story house from the bottom end. A good idea when working with metals especially, make a foil for sparks all around the direction they will fly. You can even use aluminum foil on plywood, or metal step-shingles which store easily. if you work on boats, it is very important to isolate your heat sources like soldering, etc., and maybe even a vacuum to keep dust particles out of your work area. Or/and keep a fire-smothering blanket wet and handy(but cut power first). In a shop or outdoor area, you can stack some bricks or blocks to shield the world from your work. Helen From: Chris Campbell <cc… [at] lsnm.org> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, January 4, 2012 12:10 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions On 12/29/2011 2:46 PM, r good wrote: >I built my own backing plates for the T/2. Picked up aluminum plate scraps, 1/4 inch thick, at the local metal recycling place, then cut them on the table saw with an old carbide blade. worked great and inexpensive. > You can use some woodworking tools to work soft metals like aluminum, but you have to be very careful about cleanliness. Sparks from the process can ignite sawdust from previous woodworking. I had a belt sander ignite in this way. It was exacerbated by the little motor-cooling fan that had brought the sawdust inside in the first place. Had to run water over it to cool things down. It could be worse if you had a table saw with a big sawdust bin underneath. Chris Campbell >

I used half inch plywood to back plate my (me) stanchions, with stainless steel fender washers behind the nuts. It was in an area where you couldn't see, below the side decks and above a shelf running athwart the hull. Athwart. Is that right? Jerry From: Helen Horn <he… [at] sbcglobal.net> To: "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Wednesday, January 4, 2012 1:48 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions details omitted...probably unplugged it before hosing it down? A power strip with shutoff a safe distance away but reachable is advisable. Grinders are also spark-causing..someone I know almost burned down a three story house from the bottom end. A good idea when working with metals especially, make a foil for sparks all around the direction they will fly. You can even use aluminum foil on plywood, or metal step-shingles which store easily. if you work on boats, it is very important to isolate your heat sources like soldering, etc., and maybe even a vacuum to keep dust particles out of your work area. Or/and keep a fire-smothering blanket wet and handy(but cut power first). In a shop or outdoor area, you can stack some bricks or blocks to shield the world from your work. Helen From: Chris Campbell <cc… [at] lsnm.org> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, January 4, 2012 12:10 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions On 12/29/2011 2:46 PM, r good wrote: >I built my own backing plates for the T/2. Picked up aluminum plate scraps, 1/4 inch thick, at the local metal recycling place, then cut them on the table saw with an old carbide blade. worked great and inexpensive. > You can use some woodworking tools to work soft metals like aluminum, but you have to be very careful about cleanliness. Sparks from the process can ignite sawdust from previous woodworking. I had a belt sander ignite in this way. It was exacerbated by the little motor-cooling fan that had brought the sawdust inside in the first place. Had to run water over it to cool things down. It could be worse if you had a table saw with a big sawdust bin underneath. Chris Campbell >

Speaking of backing plates, I am cleaning up my shop and have several aluminum and stainless steel backing plates, pieces of SS & aluminum, 1' & 1 1/4" flat genny track that I will be taking to the salvage yard and selling by the pound. Anyone interested for salvage price plus shipping from 32507. Contact me off the list for photos, etc. bs… [at] yahoo.com Tom Vandiver, Cal 46, Pensacola, FL From: Gerald Sobel <so… [at] yahoo.com> To: "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Wednesday, January 4, 2012 3:59 PM Subject: Backing plates was:Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions I used half inch plywood to back plate my (me) stanchions, with stainless steel fender washers behind the nuts. It was in an area where you couldn't see, below the side decks and above a shelf running athwart the hull. Athwart. Is that right? Jerry From: Helen Horn <he… [at] sbcglobal.net> To: "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Wednesday, January 4, 2012 1:48 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions details omitted...probably unplugged it before hosing it down? A power strip with shutoff a safe distance away but reachable is advisable. Grinders are also spark-causing..someone I know almost burned down a three story house from the bottom end. A good idea when working with metals especially, make a foil for sparks all around the direction they will fly. You can even use aluminum foil on plywood, or metal step-shingles which store easily. if you work on boats, it is very important to isolate your heat sources like soldering, etc., and maybe even a vacuum to keep dust particles out of your work area. Or/and keep a fire-smothering blanket wet and handy(but cut power first). In a shop or outdoor area, you can stack some bricks or blocks to shield the world from your work. Helen From: Chris Campbell <cc… [at] lsnm.org> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, January 4, 2012 12:10 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions On 12/29/2011 2:46 PM, r good wrote: > >I built my own backing plates for the T/2. Picked up aluminum plate scraps, 1/4 inch thick, at the local metal recycling place, then cut them on the table saw with an old carbide blade. worked great and inexpensive. > You can use some woodworking tools to work soft metals like aluminum, but you have to be very careful about cleanliness. Sparks from the process can ignite sawdust from previous woodworking. I had a belt sander ignite in this way. It was exacerbated by the little motor-cooling fan that had brought the sawdust inside in the first place. Had to run water over it to cool things down. It could be worse if you had a table saw with a big sawdust bin underneath. Chris Campbell >

On 1/4/2012 4:48 PM, Helen Horn wrote: > details omitted...probably unplugged it before hosing it down? A power > strip with shutoff a safe distance away but reachable is advisable. > Grinders are also spark-causing..someone I know almost burned down a > three story house from the bottom end. A contractor working on a historic 19th century city hall in Bay City, MI used a grinder when cutting flashing for a new tile roof. The contract specs called for no grinders. The grinder caused a spark that caused a big fire and lots of water damage when the sprinkler system let loose. My point was primarily that it's wise to be very cautious when you use woodworking equipment temporarily to cut metals. Most of us (well, me, at any rate) have shops that aren't operating-room clean. Mine has lots of dust around the saws. If you're not thinking about it, it would be really easy to start a fire from a small, quick job like cutting a small piece of aluminum. Chris Campbell

On 1/4/2012 4:59 PM, Gerald Sobel wrote: > I used half inch plywood to back plate my (me) stanchions, with > stainless steel fender washers behind the nuts. It was in an area > where you couldn't see, below the side decks and above a shelf running > athwart the hull. Athwart. Is that right? It depends. It's right if you mean "port to starboard" (or vice-versa) but not if you mean "bow to stern," which is fore-and-aft. Chris Campbell

Jerry, I do the same thing on my deck hardware and winches (no lifeline stanchions on my CAL 25s). After I’ve fitted the ply backing plates, I take them off and spray with 3 or so coats of sparvar (especially holes and edges) or equivalent to seal them up before final mounting. I used to use aluminum plate, but found that it oxidized and powdered after a while. . Nowadays, things like StarBoard (sp?) and other synthetics would be good for the backing application. Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gerald Sobel Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2012 5:00 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Backing plates was:Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions I used half inch plywood to back plate my (me) stanchions, with stainless steel fender washers behind the nuts. It was in an area where you couldn't see, below the side decks and above a shelf running athwart the hull. Athwart. Is that right? Jerry From: Helen Horn <he… [at] sbcglobal.net> To: "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Wednesday, January 4, 2012 1:48 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions details omitted...probably unplugged it before hosing it down? A power strip with shutoff a safe distance away but reachable is advisable. Grinders are also spark-causing..someone I know almost burned down a three story house from the bottom end. A good idea when working with metals especially, make a foil for sparks all around the direction they will fly. You can even use aluminum foil on plywood, or metal step-shingles which store easily. if you work on boats, it is very important to isolate your heat sources like soldering, etc., and maybe even a vacuum to keep dust particles out of your work area. Or/and keep a fire-smothering blanket wet and handy(but cut power first). In a shop or outdoor area, you can stack some bricks or blocks to shield the world from your work. Helen

Chris, Fore and Aft? &^%$#@!! Aarrrgghh! Jerry How about, runs along the starboard and port bulkheads, or hull sides, fore and aft? Athwart sounds better, tho! Uggh. I have a race coming up Sat. Am and an outboard that said "Avast!" She's gone on a sit down strike on the transom. And Sunday I was so pleased with me self that she'd been runnin' good the last month. I thought it had been the spark plug gap, since that seemed to remedy the same problem I had earlier. Now she don't want to start, and if she does try, she rev's up, quits, and emits brown bubbles that explode into an oil film as they reach the surface. Maybe she's trying to imitate a submarine struck by a depth charge? Athwart. I have one of those on me finger that won't go anywhere.Arrrhhhgghh From: Chris Campbell <cc… [at] lsnm.org> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, January 5, 2012 8:12 AM Subject: Re: Backing plates was:Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions On 1/4/2012 4:59 PM, Gerald Sobel wrote: >I used half inch plywood to back plate my (me) stanchions, with stainless steel fender washers behind the nuts. It was in an area where you couldn't see, below the side decks and above a shelf running athwart the hull. Athwart. Is that right? It depends. It's right if you mean "port to starboard" (or vice-versa) but not if you mean "bow to stern," which is fore-and-aft. Chris Campbell

Charlie, you mean, you didn't stain and varnish them proper like before installing them? With and old fashion square, chisel edge foam brush? What about sealing the holes, did you use polysulfide? My niffty whiskerpoles powder and pit after a while, especially one of the tubes that is plain avaition grade, T6061 I used when I traverse hurricane gulch, or use on a Ranger 23 which has a longer foredeck than me boat. Jerry From: "Husar, Charlie [USA] (ASE)" <hu… [at] bah.com> To: "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Thursday, January 5, 2012 8:36 AM Subject: RE: Backing plates was:Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions Jerry, I do the same thing on my deck hardware and winches (no lifeline stanchions on my CAL 25s). After I’ve fitted the ply backing plates, I take them off and spray with 3 or so coats of sparvar (especially holes and edges) or equivalent to seal them up before final mounting. I used to use aluminum plate, but found that it oxidized and powdered after a while. . Nowadays, things like StarBoard (sp?) and other synthetics would be good for the backing application. Cheers Charlie From:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gerald Sobel Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2012 5:00 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Backing plates was:Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions I used half inch plywood to back plate my (me) stanchions, with stainless steel fender washers behind the nuts. It was in an area where you couldn't see, below the side decks and above a shelf running athwart the hull. Athwart. Is that right? Jerry From:Helen Horn <he… [at] sbcglobal.net> To: "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Wednesday, January 4, 2012 1:48 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions details omitted...probably unplugged it before hosing it down? A power strip with shutoff a safe distance away but reachable is advisable. Grinders are also spark-causing..someone I know almost burned down a three story house from the bottom end. A good idea when working with metals especially, make a foil for sparks all around the direction they will fly. You can even use aluminum foil on plywood, or metal step-shingles which store easily. if you work on boats, it is very important to isolate your heat sources like soldering, etc., and maybe even a vacuum to keep dust particles out of your work area. Or/and keep a fire-smothering blanket wet and handy(but cut power first). In a shop or outdoor area, you can stack some bricks or blocks to shield the world from your work. Helen

Jerry, unfortunately, your fittings run fore and aft, but are indeed athwart ships port and starboard. This is a bit like mathematical set theory they were teaching kids 30-40 years ago until they discovered the kids could no longer count, much less do basic arithmetic. Basically you have fore and aft sets, and athwart ships sets that have overlapping subsets. I trust it is all clear now. Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gerald Sobel Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2012 12:46 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Athwart, was:Re: Backing plates was:Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions Chris, Fore and Aft? &^%$#@!! Aarrrgghh! Jerry How about, runs along the starboard and port bulkheads, or hull sides, fore and aft? Athwart sounds better, tho! Uggh. I have a race coming up Sat. Am and an outboard that said "Avast!" She's gone on a sit down strike on the transom. And Sunday I was so pleased with me self that she'd been runnin' good the last month. I thought it had been the spark plug gap, since that seemed to remedy the same problem I had earlier. Now she don't want to start, and if she does try, she rev's up, quits, and emits brown bubbles that explode into an oil film as they reach the surface. Maybe she's trying to imitate a submarine struck by a depth charge? Athwart. I have one of those on me finger that won't go anywhere.Arrrhhhgghh From: Chris Campbell <cc… [at] lsnm.org> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, January 5, 2012 8:12 AM Subject: Re: Backing plates was:Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions On 1/4/2012 4:59 PM, Gerald Sobel wrote: I used half inch plywood to back plate my (me) stanchions, with stainless steel fender washers behind the nuts. It was in an area where you couldn't see, below the side decks and above a shelf running athwart the hull. Athwart. Is that right? It depends. It's right if you mean "port to starboard" (or vice-versa) but not if you mean "bow to stern," which is fore-and-aft. Chris Campbell

Jerry, the sparvar soaks in and provides a nice naturally grained honey-colored glow. Truly breathtaking. I stain bulkheads but go au naturelle on the overheads (except for the honey-colored glow stuff). I would send photos, but do not want to be the cause of anyone going into The Rapture. I use the polysulfide up on the deck where the fitting goes. I have seen people caulk at the bottom of leaks rather than at the top. I generally do not recommend it, both aesthetics and for reasons of sanity. Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gerald Sobel Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2012 12:54 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: Backing plates was:Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions Charlie, you mean, you didn't stain and varnish them proper like before installing them? With and old fashion square, chisel edge foam brush? What about sealing the holes, did you use polysulfide? My niffty whiskerpoles powder and pit after a while, especially one of the tubes that is plain avaition grade, T6061 I used when I traverse hurricane gulch, or use on a Ranger 23 which has a longer foredeck than me boat. Jerry From: "Husar, Charlie [USA] (ASE)" <hu… [at] bah.com> To: "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Thursday, January 5, 2012 8:36 AM Subject: RE: Backing plates was:Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions Jerry, I do the same thing on my deck hardware and winches (no lifeline stanchions on my CAL 25s). After I’ve fitted the ply backing plates, I take them off and spray with 3 or so coats of sparvar (especially holes and edges) or equivalent to seal them up before final mounting. I used to use aluminum plate, but found that it oxidized and powdered after a while. . Nowadays, things like StarBoard (sp?) and other synthetics would be good for the backing application. Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gerald Sobel Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2012 5:00 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Backing plates was:Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions I used half inch plywood to back plate my (me) stanchions, with stainless steel fender washers behind the nuts. It was in an area where you couldn't see, below the side decks and above a shelf running athwart the hull. Athwart. Is that right? Jerry From: Helen Horn <he… [at] sbcglobal.net> To: "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Wednesday, January 4, 2012 1:48 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions details omitted...probably unplugged it before hosing it down? A power strip with shutoff a safe distance away but reachable is advisable. Grinders are also spark-causing..someone I know almost burned down a three story house from the bottom end. A good idea when working with metals especially, make a foil for sparks all around the direction they will fly. You can even use aluminum foil on plywood, or metal step-shingles which store easily. if you work on boats, it is very important to isolate your heat sources like soldering, etc., and maybe even a vacuum to keep dust particles out of your work area. Or/and keep a fire-smothering blanket wet and handy(but cut power first). In a shop or outdoor area, you can stack some bricks or blocks to shield the world from your work. Helen

On 1/5/2012 12:46 PM, Gerald Sobel wrote: > > Uggh. I have a race coming up Sat. Am and an outboard that said "Avast!" > She's gone on a sit down strike on the transom. > And Sunday I was so pleased with me self that she'd been runnin' good > the last month. I thought it had been the spark plug gap, since that > seemed to remedy the same problem I had earlier. Now she don't want to > start, and if she does try, she rev's up, quits, and emits brown > bubbles that explode into an oil film as they reach the surface. Maybe > she's trying to imitate a submarine struck by a depth charge? Or maybe you've got decades of oily/waxy goo plugging up the exhaust path? Or maybe an air leak of some kind in the fuel delivery system? Check the dip tube in the gas tank for rust caused by the @#$&%**!!! alcohol gas. Or maybe cracked rubber hose. Or just crud in the carb somewhere. Chris

Charlie, I remember that now, and I thanked the Number Gods high and low that I didn't have to learn none of that set stuff, except, by then, I was in college calculus class going blind reading over and over and over, the definition of a limit as something or other approaches infinity. Nowadays we old folks have to do more with less brain cells and synapses, that mostly just set around, and needs be brought in line by scratching the hair follicles on the fox'es [window] sill, above the two foggy portlites, set ahtwart our skulls, warts and all. Jerry From: "Husar, Charlie [USA] (ASE)" <hu… [at] bah.com> To: "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Thursday, January 5, 2012 9:54 AM Subject: RE: Athwart, was:Re: Backing plates was:Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions Jerry, unfortunately, your fittings run fore and aft, but are indeed athwart ships port and starboard. This is a bit like mathematical set theory they were teaching kids 30-40 years ago until they discovered the kids could no longer count, much less do basic arithmetic. Basically you have fore and aft sets, and athwart ships sets that have overlapping subsets. I trust it is all clear now. Cheers Charlie From:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gerald Sobel Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2012 12:46 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Athwart, was:Re: Backing plates was:Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions Chris, Fore and Aft? &^%$#@!! Aarrrgghh! Jerry How about, runs along the starboard and port bulkheads, or hull sides, fore and aft? Athwart sounds better, tho! Uggh. I have a race coming up Sat. Am and an outboard that said "Avast!" She's gone on a sit down strike on the transom. And Sunday I was so pleased with me self that she'd been runnin' good the last month. I thought it had been the spark plug gap, since that seemed to remedy the same problem I had earlier. Now she don't want to start, and if she does try, she rev's up, quits, and emits brown bubbles that explode into an oil film as they reach the surface. Maybe she's trying to imitate a submarine struck by a depth charge? Athwart. I have one of those on me finger that won't go anywhere.Arrrhhhgghh From:Chris Campbell <cc… [at] lsnm.org> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, January 5, 2012 8:12 AM Subject: Re: Backing plates was:Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions On 1/4/2012 4:59 PM, Gerald Sobel wrote: >I used half inch plywood to back plate my (me) stanchions, with stainless steel fender washers behind the nuts. It was in an area where you couldn't see, below the side decks and above a shelf running athwart the hull. Athwart. Is that right? It depends. It's right if you mean "port to starboard" (or vice-versa) but not if you mean "bow to stern," which is fore-and-aft. Chris Campbell

On 1/5/2012 12:54 PM, Husar, Charlie [USA] (ASE) wrote: > > Jerry, unfortunately, your fittings run fore and aft, but are indeed > athwart ships port and starboard. This is a bit like mathematical set > theory they were teaching kids 30-40 years ago until they discovered > the kids could no longer count, > Actually, it was until they discovered that teaching that way made no sense. I was a victim of the School Mathematics Study Group and their revolutionary instructional methods one year in HS algebra. Still have the paperback text tucked away somewhere as a reminder that not all revolutions are steps forward. What does make sense is finding ways to make mathematics relate better to real world experience. High school trig is one of those subjects that was just something to endure then, but that i wish I knew now because it's so useful. Chris Campbell

On 1/5/2012 1:02 PM, Husar, Charlie [USA] (ASE) wrote: > > > I use the polysulfide up on the deck where the fitting goes. I have > seen people caulk at the bottom of leaks rather than at the top. I > generally do not recommend it, both aesthetics and for reasons of sanity. > Also because it defies gravity, which is usually a losing proposition. Chris Campbell > >

Chris, no rusty tube, it's a generic 6 gallon plastic tank, and I tore down the carb last time and it wouldn't start till I re- gapped the plug. But yes, indeed, it sounds like a fuel problem, because the engine will rev up like that when you are trying to run the gas out of the carb with the fuel line disconnected. But one of my dock mates and I worked on that idea, and then, it was so bad it wouldn't even pop when we sprayed ether (starting spray) down the throat. It was fun breathing the ether, tho. I think I need to read up on Shinto prayers for nautical motors, and Japanese for "please start, you XXXXX'g outboard!" Jerry From: Chris Campbell <cc… [at] lsnm.org> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, January 5, 2012 10:04 AM Subject: Re: Athwart, was:Re: Backing plates was:Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions On 1/5/2012 12:46 PM, Gerald Sobel wrote: > > >Uggh. I have a race coming up Sat. Am and an outboard that said "Avast!" >She's gone on a sit down strike on the transom. >And Sunday I was so pleased with me self that she'd been runnin' good the last month. I thought it had been the spark plug gap, since that seemed to remedy the same problem I had earlier. Now she don't want to start, and if she does try, she rev's up, quits, and emits brown bubbles that explode into an oil film as they reach the surface. Maybe she's trying to imitate a submarine struck by a depth charge? Or maybe you've got decades of oily/waxy goo plugging up the exhaust path? Or maybe an air leak of some kind in the fuel delivery system? Check the dip tube in the gas tank for rust caused by the @#$&%**!!! alcohol gas. Or maybe cracked rubber hose. Or just crud in the carb somewhere. Chris

Chris, maybe it was a conspiracy to sell new math text books? Brilliant get rich quick idea by publishers, or worse, a conspiracy by Chaos to befuddle a whole generation so they couldn't balance their check books and then steal all the gold in Fort Knox and everyone's retirement accounts, life savings, and homes, by telling us that financial derivatives were so tricky and complex that we 'can't explain it to you', therefore, not to worry, just 'trust us'?. You'd have thought if they'd had any integrity they would have tried it out in one or a few schools before foisting it on an entire nation's school system. Fortunately, we old folks were taught the old fashioned way, knew all about sets. Model train sets. TV sets. Them be sets. Jerry From: Chris Campbell <cc… [at] lsnm.org> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, January 5, 2012 10:10 AM Subject: Re: Athwart, was:Re: Backing plates was:Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions On 1/5/2012 12:54 PM, Husar, Charlie [USA] (ASE) wrote: >Jerry, unfortunately, your fittings run fore and aft, but are indeed athwart ships port and starboard. This is a bit like mathematical set theory they were teaching kids 30-40 years ago until they discovered the kids could no longer count, Actually, it was until they discovered that teaching that way made no sense. I was a victim of the School Mathematics Study Group and their revolutionary instructional methods one year in HS algebra. Still have the paperback text tucked away somewhere as a reminder that not all revolutions are steps forward. What does make sense is finding ways to make mathematics relate better to real world experience. High school trig is one of those subjects that was just something to endure then, but that i wish I knew now because it's so useful. Chris Campbell

On 1/5/2012 1:14 PM, Gerald Sobel wrote: > Chris, no rusty tube, it's a generic 6 gallon plastic tank, and I tore > down the carb last time and it wouldn't start till I re- gapped the > plug. But yes, indeed, it sounds like a fuel problem, because the > engine will rev up like that when you are trying to run the gas out of > the carb with the fuel line disconnected. But one of my dock mates and > I worked on that idea, and then, it was so bad it wouldn't even pop > when we sprayed ether (starting spray) down the throat. It was fun > breathing the ether, tho. > I think I need to read up on Shinto prayers for nautical motors, and > Japanese for "please start, you XXXXX'g outboard!" I tried saying that in English, since it's my outboard's native language, and it did not work. So I went out and bought my very own personal gallon can of carb dip at the auto parts store so I can be sure the parts are clean. Also, I buy pure, non-alcohol gas at the marina, even though it costs an unconscionable amount. Check the gas tank dip tube, even if it's plastic, just to make sure it doesn't have a tiny crack. Then do the same for the hose from tank to engine. Then do the same from connector to carb. How about the fuel pump? My old OBs have those little diaphragm devices. Check for pinholes, cracked bodies, or bad valves. Maybe you could run a temporary fuel line from a container directly to the carb, feeding it by gravity, and see if things work that way. If so, the problem lies between gas tank and carb. Long ago I was charged with piloting my bro's 1966 Plymouth Fury station wagon, a magnificent old 383 cu. in. beast, to his new home. It stalled three blocks from the starting point. Cause? A tiny rust pit made a hole in the gas line. It started, it ran, it stalled. Chris Campbell

Chris, thanks for all your gouge. Actually, my problems started after I put a fresh gallon of marine dock gas in the main tank, that I bought to insure I'd have enuff gas to get back around the Horn of Palos Verdes in case the wind died, or I got sick of tacking against the current in light wind, getting nowhere. I added the Marine gas a week after I got back, and it's then my problems started; I missed a Tuesday evening series race. The next weekend, I tore apart the carb, but it was clean, just a faint bit of powdery brown stuff at the base of the float bowl. If I squeeze the tank bulb gas shoots right out the disconnected tube at the carb input connection, but, I'll try all that again, especially, getting rid of any old gas. It's unfortunate that it is easier to remove the carb from the motor, linkages and all, than try to get at the carb reservoir drain screw. Also, should re check the plugs. It may have a problem 'cause I ran it so long with a really wide plug gap, that can burn up the electronic ignition module, so I'm told. Jerry From: Chris Campbell <cc… [at] lsnm.org> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, January 5, 2012 12:37 PM Subject: Re: Recalitrant Suzuki, was:Re: Athwart, was:Re: Backing plates was:Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions On 1/5/2012 1:14 PM, Gerald Sobel wrote: >Chris, no rusty tube, it's a generic 6 gallon plastic tank, and I tore down the carb last time and it wouldn't start till I re- gapped the plug. But yes, indeed, it sounds like a fuel problem, because the engine will rev up like that when you are trying to run the gas out of the carb with the fuel line disconnected. But one of my dock mates and I worked on that idea, and then, it was so bad it wouldn't even pop when we sprayed ether (starting spray) down the throat. It was fun breathing the ether, tho. >I think I need to read up on Shinto prayers for nautical motors, and Japanese for "please start, you XXXXX'g outboard!" > I tried saying that in English, since it's my outboard's native language, and it did not work. So I went out and bought my very own personal gallon can of carb dip at the auto parts store so I can be sure the parts are clean. Also, I buy pure, non-alcohol gas at the marina, even though it costs an unconscionable amount. Check the gas tank dip tube, even if it's plastic, just to make sure it doesn't have a tiny crack. Then do the same for the hose from tank to engine. Then do the same from connector to carb. How about the fuel pump? My old OBs have those little diaphragm devices. Check for pinholes, cracked bodies, or bad valves. Maybe you could run a temporary fuel line from a container directly to the carb, feeding it by gravity, and see if things work that way. If so, the problem lies between gas tank and carb. Long ago I was charged with piloting my bro's 1966 Plymouth Fury station wagon, a magnificent old 383 cu. in. beast, to his new home. It stalled three blocks from the starting point. Cause? A tiny rust pit made a hole in the gas line. It started, it ran, it stalled. Chris Campbell

On 1/5/2012 4:45 PM, Gerald Sobel wrote: > If I squeeze the tank bulb gas shoots right out the disconnected tube > at the carb input connection, but, I'll try all that again, > especially, getting rid of any old gas. Remember that when you squeeze the bulb, you're pushing the gas. When the fuel pump it working, it's sucking the gas. That's when air leaks cause trouble. > Also, should re check the plugs. It may have a problem 'cause I ran > it so long with a really wide plug gap, that can burn up the > electronic ignition module, so I'm told. If you get no action at all now, even with ether, maybe so. Have you tried removing a plug, grounding it, then turning the motor over to see if you've got a spark at the plug gap? If no spark, there's the problem. Chris Campbell

Thanks Mike, I went to tap plastics and they never heard of G10. Ordered on line from the lead you gave me. I want to back up my bow pulpit on my SC 27. I will drill out and fill and redrill as the deck is balsa cored. Thanks once more! My Best, Mike Farrell From: Michael Robinson <mi… [at] hotmail.com> To: Cal boats List <ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2011 2:15 PM Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] stanchions Take a look at specs on the G 10. it is VERY easy to cut and to work with. No moisture, no compression. http://www.interstateplastics.com/G-10-Glass-Epoxy-Sheet-PHEEG.php?sku=PHEEG&vid=201112291607-6p&dim2=12&dim3=12&thickness=0.750&qty=1 Mike Robinson To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: ti… [at] ch2m.com Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2011 20:19:11 +0000 Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions Garhauer will make what you want. Cal gal has IPE "E-Pay" (like ironwood). This stuff is very cool and has amazing properties. Cheers, Timm Lessley (Sent from Blackberry) (503) 863-4019 From: r good [mailto:my… [at] hotmail.com] Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2011 12:46 PM To: ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] stanchions I built my own backing plates for the T/2. Picked up aluminum plate scraps, 1/4 inch thick, at the local metal recycling place, then cut them on the table saw with an old carbide blade. worked great and inexpensive. My new Garhauer stanchions will come with backing plates. reggie To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: he… [at] sbcglobal.net Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2011 11:43:03 -0800 Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions Thanks Mike, will contact him. I like backing plates, put them on the 29 stanchions before we sold her. Picked them up at Minney's and yard sales to match holes. They make for a nice clean fitting and even compression. Helen From: Michael Robinson <mi… [at] hotmail.com> To: "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2011 12:08 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions Helen and Ed, Ouch! Hit by a floating sidewalk! I sailed to Hawaii on one, 15 days SF to Hilo on Starshine 55 feet. My bow pulpit was modified by Craig at Metal Magic in Oakland. He also did the Ss handrails. He is very good and reasonable too. Pulpit not in removable bases. Someone mentioned backing plates; I used 1/4 " G10 for all backing plates. Got it at International Plastics. > > > > > >

Mike, Thanks for the feedback. Yes Tap has good stuff but no G 10. If I recall you are on SF Bay. Interstate Plastics has a store in San Leandro. Everything on Holiday is backed with the stuff. ............BTW.................. Holiday is now for sale. Details to follow. We are 2 boat owners and preparing to head out cruising later this year, must part with Holiday after I've redone EVERYTHING ! . Cheers, Mike On Jan 5, 2012, at 2:03 PM, "mike farrell" <ve… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > > > Thanks Mike, > I went to tap plastics and they never heard of G10. Ordered on line from the lead you gave me. I want to back up my bow pulpit on my SC 27. I will drill out and fill and redrill as the deck is balsa cored. Thanks once more! > My Best, Mike Farrell > > From: Michael Robinson <mi… [at] hotmail.com> > To: Cal boats List <ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2011 2:15 PM > Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] stanchions > > > > Take a look at specs on the G 10. it is VERY easy to cut and to work with. No moisture, no compression. > > Mike Robinson > > > > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > From: ti… [at] ch2m.com > Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2011 20:19:11 +0000 > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions > > > > Garhauer will make what you want. Cal gal has IPE "E-Pay" (like ironwood). This stuff is very cool and has amazing properties. > Cheers, > > Timm Lessley > (Sent from Blackberry) > (503) 863-4019 > > From: r good [mailto:my… [at] hotmail.com] > Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2011 12:46 PM > To: ca… [at] yahoogroups.com <ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> > Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] stanchions > > > I built my own backing plates for the T/2. Picked up aluminum plate scraps, 1/4 inch thick, at the local metal recycling place, then cut them on the table saw with an old carbide blade. worked great and inexpensive. > > My new Garhauer stanchions will come with backing plates. > > reggie > > > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > From: he… [at] sbcglobal.net > Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2011 11:43:03 -0800 > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions > > > Thanks Mike, will contact him. I like backing plates, put them on the 29 stanchions before we sold her. Picked them up at Minney's and yard sales to match holes. They make for a nice clean fitting and even compression. Helen > > From: Michael Robinson <mi… [at] hotmail.com> > To: "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2011 12:08 PM > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions > > > Helen and Ed, > Ouch! Hit by a floating sidewalk! I sailed to Hawaii on one, 15 days SF to Hilo on Starshine 55 feet. > My bow pulpit was modified by Craig at Metal Magic in Oakland. He also did the Ss handrails. He is very good and reasonable too. Pulpit not in removable bases. > Someone mentioned backing plates; I used 1/4 " G10 for all backing plates. Got it at International Plastics. > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >

This phrase just activated some PTSD I did not know I had. Just the mention of the SMSG series. I endured 3 years of it and remarkably I understood Charlie's tongue -in-cheek explanation of the Athwart using the concept of sets. It is frightening that I can remember that stuff, but I cannot remember why I walked into the kitchen when I get there. Terry On Jan 5, 2012, at 10:10 AM, Chris Campbell wrote: > Actually, it was until they discovered that teaching that way made no sense. I was a victim of the School Mathematics Study Group and their revolutionary instructional methods one year in HS algebra. Still have the paperback text tucked away somewhere as a reminder that not all revolutions are steps forward.

If it speeds up when you run it with the gas off it is too rich. That will foul the plugs as well. Put in a new plug and it will probably start, then fix the richness. Or just buy a lot of plugs and replace them every time you use the engine :-) I had a clog in an idle jet that was very hard to clean. I had to take all the jets out and clean it, blow it all out, the put it back. In the 20 years I had the engine, it never ran as well as after I cleaned it I think the 3rd time. Take the carb completely apart, every jet, everything then soak it. But you will need a new plug no matter what. I mean, take the plug out. It should be a creamy color. It's probably black. If it is black, replace it. Allen On Thu, Jan 5, 2012 at 2:02 PM, Chris Campbell <cc… [at] lsnm.org> wrote: > ** > > > ** On 1/5/2012 4:45 PM, Gerald Sobel wrote: > > If I squeeze the tank bulb gas shoots right out the disconnected tube > at the carb input connection, but, I'll try all that again, especially, > getting rid of any old gas. > > > Remember that when you squeeze the bulb, you're pushing the gas. When the > fuel pump it working, it's sucking the gas. That's when air leaks cause > trouble. > > Also, should re check the plugs. It may have a problem 'cause I ran > it so long with a really wide plug gap, that can burn up the electronic > ignition module, so I'm told. > > > If you get no action at all now, even with ether, maybe so. Have you > tried removing a plug, grounding it, then turning the motor over to see if > you've got a spark at the plug gap? If no spark, there's the problem. > > Chris Campbell > > >

I think I'm using the original plug, it looks perfect, no fouling at all, altho it does look dark colored as I recall. I am going to try the plug out, grounded, to see if I get a fat spark. Last time I went thru this drill, the gap reduction worked after everything else failed. Before that, clearing the gas line worked altho I don't know if there was any debris since the gas I squeezed out went overboard accidentally (please don't turn me into the C.G.!) No hurt trying a new plug tho, if I can find one. The local dealer closed down at the time, maybe he's back in business again? If I get desperate I'll try to sail out if there's wind, or get a tow to the start line. I'm wondering if there's a weak coil or wire somewhere, since the OB ran fine going to the start line, but failed late in the afternoon when I tried to re-start it, when it was cold and damp. Jerry From: Allen Edwards <al… [at] gmail.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, January 5, 2012 10:06 PM Subject: Re: Recalitrant Suzuki, was:Re: Athwart, was:Re: Backing plates was:Re: [Cal_Boats] stanchions If it speeds up when you run it with the gas off it is too rich. That will foul the plugs as well. Put in a new plug and it will probably start, then fix the richness. Or just buy a lot of plugs and replace them every time you use the engine :-) I had a clog in an idle jet that was very hard to clean. I had to take all the jets out and clean it, blow it all out, the put it back. In the 20 years I had the engine, it never ran as well as after I cleaned it I think the 3rd time. Take the carb completely apart, every jet, everything then soak it. But you will need a new plug no matter what. I mean, take the plug out. It should be a creamy color. It's probably black. If it is black, replace it. Allen On Thu, Jan 5, 2012 at 2:02 PM, Chris Campbell <cc… [at] lsnm.org> wrote: > > On 1/5/2012 4:45 PM, Gerald Sobel wrote: > If I squeeze the tank bulb gas shoots right out the disconnected tube at the carb input connection, but, I'll try all that again, especially, getting rid of any old gas. > Remember that when you squeeze the bulb, you're pushing the gas. When the fuel pump it working, it's sucking the gas. That's when air leaks cause trouble. > > > >>Also, should re check the plugs. It may have a problem 'cause I ran it so long with a really wide plug gap, that can burn up the electronic ignition module, so I'm told. > If you get no action at all now, even with ether, maybe so. Have you tried removing a plug, grounding it, then turning the motor over to see if you've got a spark at the plug gap? If no spark, there's the problem. > >Chris Campbell > >

On 1/6/2012 1:06 AM, Allen Edwards wrote: > > I mean, take the plug out. It should be a creamy color. It's > probably black. If it is black, replace it. > My Scottish nature makes me too cheap to fling out old plugs. I clean them in solvent and perhaps scrape off hardened deposits, check the gap, and then put them back into rotation. There's a little row of ready-to-go spark plugs below on my other boat, which is 1-1/2 miles from open water and uses the power a lot more than the Cal 20 does. It tends to foul one plug once a season or so. Only the idle-speed mixture is adjustable. On the other boat, I can usually sail either in or out of the river. On a really lucky day, I get a wind switch while sailing that lets me sail both ways. Sometimes luck fails and I power both ways (boo). Chris Campbell