Re: [Cal_Boats] New Boards

Correct term for the cockpit backrests would be "Cockpit Coamings" sounds like "comb" Freeboard is defined as the distance from the water line to the gunwale. Gunwale: The edge where the deck meets the topsides Topsides: The surface of the hull, above the waterline (ie: the "top" part of the sides) and.... to add to everyone's sailing dictionary: Ceiling: the covering for the inside of the hull. traditionally on wooden boats it consisted of wood slats on the inside of the frames. Overhead: the underside of a deck or cabin "roof". Rod Johnson, "SUNBIRD" 1979 O'DAY DS II 10201 former co-owner of "NODROG" 1970 CAL 21 #285 On Mon, 23 Jan 2012 18:43:09 -0000 "Benjamin Buehler" <be… [at] priceyourglass.com> writes: Hello folks, First, I'm kind of a sailing newbie. I'm sure there is a sailing term for these things, but I'm not sure...freeboard maybe? Regardless, I need to replace the two boards that act as backrests running the length of the cockpit on my 1967 cal 34. I think they were teak, but are completely trashed. I'd like to not use teak. I need something I can put high gloss varnish on and have it look good for awhile. It's somewhat curved, so I'm not sure how hard of a wood I can use, but I'm open for suggestions on wood type please. Thanks so much, Ben Groupon&#8482 Official Site 1 ridiculously huge coupon a day. Get 50-90% off your city&#39;s best! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4f1dbdfe62955f3bf0st04duc

I'm in a similar situation with the toe rail of me Cal 24. The Teak is fractured and falling off, and I'm thinking of..perish the thought, or replacing it with a plastic extrusion like the one over my stern. I know it wouldn't look purty tho. It's a U shaped piece of wood, and on my boat it is made of two 12' lengths that are spiced (I ferget the correct term) in the middle. I've also thought of using three thin strips of wood, glued and screwed together, to make this part. I would love to pay less fro Ipe than Teak! Maybe I could pick up some cheap from the cruise ship Costa-a lot- Concordia if they decided to break it up. (looks like if the ship went straight instead of turning away from the island at that instant, it my have missed that reef, which is, I read, even marked on tourist maps. The gash in the hull is along the stern quarter of the hull) Also, what's the easiest way to remove that brown haze that's been growing on my hull sides that makes my boat un-yacht-like in pictures...vinegar? Hydrochloric acid? Bleach? Cap Tin Jerry and his Venerable Cal 24-I "Shpritz" From: Rodney G. Johnson <rj… [at] juno.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, January 23, 2012 12:11 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] New Boards 

Jerry, I think you are referring to a scarf-joint? to clean the brown haze off your topsides, I'd suggest either "Y-10" or "FSR" They are gel-like cleaners that contain oxalic acid and do a WONDERFUL job cleaning waterline stains off. The catch though is that you may need to haul out your boat....... I don't know if the tree-hugging state of California will want you washing chemicals into the water. Even relatively mild ones like these? I remember reading once about a guy who was arrested for sanding his teak rails while afloat....... the dust was polluting the harbor? We have used Y-10 on our boats for years, you brush the gel onto the stains, wait a few minutes and then rinse off with soap and water. The stain should be gone (and the area where you applied it will pretty much match the original color of the surface (if your boat is/was white...... put on your sunglasses!) I believe it is safe to use on painted as well as gel coat surfaces. Perhaps there is a more environmentally safe version of these cleaners? Try GOOGLE "Aussan Naturals" Rod Johnson, "SUNBIRD" 1979 O'DAY DS II #10201 former co-owner of "NODROG" 1970 CAL 21 #285 On Mon, 23 Jan 2012 12:50:50 -0800 (PST) Gerald Sobel <so… [at] yahoo.com> writes: I'm in a similar situation with the toe rail of me Cal 24. The Teak is fractured and falling off, and I'm thinking of..perish the thought, or replacing it with a plastic extrusion like the one over my stern. I know it wouldn't look purty tho. It's a U shaped piece of wood, and on my boat it is made of two 12' lengths that are spiced (I ferget the correct term) in the middle. I've also thought of using three thin strips of wood, glued and screwed together, to make this part. I would love to pay less fro Ipe than Teak! Maybe I could pick up some cheap from the cruise ship Costa-a lot- Concordia if they decided to break it up. (looks like if the ship went straight instead of turning away from the island at that instant, it my have missed that reef, which is, I read, even marked on tourist maps. The gash in the hull is along the stern quarter of the hull) Also, what's the easiest way to remove that brown haze that's been growing on my hull sides that makes my boat un-yacht-like in pictures...vinegar? Hydrochloric acid? Bleach? Cap Tin Jerry and his Venerable Cal 24-I "Shpritz" From: Rodney G. Johnson <rj… [at] juno.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, January 23, 2012 12:11 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] New Boards ?

I’m not good at recommendations without understanding exactly what you are trying to do, or accomplish. Can you be more specific? Teak is THE wood of yachts for many reasons. It’s natural properties protect it without any care to a patina(sp) finish, or you can oil or varnish to a thick honey glow as your time and energy allow. Plywoods will separate; I would think them to be completely unsuitable… unless there is a product that I am unfamiliar with. I have seen light gray plastic used (Dancing Bear Cal 40), (sorry Mark – I did not like it). On my boat the highly varnished teak coamings are closing in on half a century of life and potentially have at least double that life left. I have IPE decking at my home, it is typically acid washed and oiled… (for boat purposes oiled wood stains clothing and can be slippery) Ipe would be a similar lovely material as teak, I believe it to be much harder and heavier. IPE has very interesting properties… like fireproof and unable to float, it has a history as a marine hardwood – misnomered “Ironwood” Finally it is your boat, do what makes you happy. Cheers, [cid:image005.png@01CBF93B.85770E70] Timm Lessley 503.863.4019 Cell to cell calls From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com]<mailto:[mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com]> On Behalf Of Rodney G. Johnson Sent: Monday, January 23, 2012 12:11 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] New Boards  From experience, plywood, even "marine" plywood would not be my first choice. Marine plywood IS better than Exterior plywood for this, but still may not hold varnish well on the upper edges, leading to delaminating. You could use plywood with a solid wood "breadboard" edge on the upper edges, maybe? Rod Johnson, "SUNBIRD" 1979 O'DAY DS II #10201 former co-owner of "NODROG" 1970 CAL 21 #285 On Mon, 23 Jan 2012 14:58:32 -0500 "Mike McElhaney"<mi… [at] wahini.org<mailto:mi… [at] wahini.org>> writes: Ben, We are in the process of replacing the cockpit coaming on our Cal-40 with Ipe (pronounced eepay). It is a very hard, oily and heavy wood but not nearly as expensive as teak. I would recommend it in lieu of plywood. You don't want to do the job again nor do you want to be the dreaded PO (previous owner). We replaced our toerail with this as well and it came out nice. I can't attest to how it holds varnish as we haven't done that yet. We plan on oiling as needed. Mike M. Celtic Naut From: Allen Edwards <al… [at] gmail.com<mailto:al… [at] gmail.com>> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Mon, Jan 23, 2012 19:47:27 GMT+00:00 Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] New Boards mahogany marine plywood would be my recommendation Allen On Jan 23, 2012 10:43 AM, "Benjamin Buehler" <be… [at] priceyourglass.com<mailto:be… [at] priceyourglass.com>> wrote: Hello folks, First, I'm kind of a sailing newbie. I'm sure there is a sailing term for these things, but I'm not sure...freeboard maybe? Regardless, I need to replace the two boards that act as backrests running the length of the cockpit on my 1967 cal 34. I think they were teak, but are completely trashed. I'd like to not use teak. I need something I can put high gloss varnish on and have it look good for awhile. It's somewhat curved, so I'm not sure how hard of a wood I can use, but I'm open for suggestions on wood type please. Thanks so much, Ben Groupon™ Official Site 1 ridiculously huge coupon a day. Get 50-90% off your city's best! <http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/4f1dbf4daed5a6f2d7dst01duc>Groupon.com<http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/4f1dbf4daed5a6f2d7dst01duc>

this is probably bordering on travesty, but I would probably replace with teak colored engineered wood like Trex. I am not one to love the zen of varnishing. I machined trex to replace the teak companionway cover slide rails, companionway exterior trim and threshold 6 or 7 seasons ago on our T/2. Boat lives year round outside, no protection in the summers, occasional protection in the winters, still looks great and folks think it is teak unless they are up close and know better. Chosing the correct color is very important. no scraping. no sanding. no varnishing. no oiing. Just sailing! Reggie To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: ti… [at] ch2m.com Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2012 22:19:15 +0000 Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] New Boards I’m not good at recommendations without understanding exactly what you are trying to do, or accomplish. Can you be more specific? Teak is THE wood of yachts for many reasons. It’s natural properties protect it without any care to a patina(sp) finish, or you can oil or varnish to a thick honey glow as your time and energy allow. Plywoods will separate; I would think them to be completely unsuitable… unless there is a product that I am unfamiliar with. I have seen light gray plastic used (Dancing Bear Cal 40), (sorry Mark – I did not like it). On my boat the highly varnished teak coamings are closing in on half a century of life and potentially have at least double that life left. I have IPE decking at my home, it is typically acid washed and oiled… (for boat purposes oiled wood stains clothing and can be slippery) Ipe would be a similar lovely material as teak, I believe it to be much harder and heavier. IPE has very interesting properties… like fireproof and unable to float, it has a history as a marine hardwood – misnomered “Ironwood” Finally it is your boat, do what makes you happy. Cheers, Timm Lessley 503.863.4019 Cell to cell calls From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Rodney G. Johnson Sent: Monday, January 23, 2012 12:11 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] New Boards  From experience, plywood, even "marine" plywood would not be my first choice. Marine plywood IS better than Exterior plywood for this, but still may not hold varnish well on the upper edges, leading to delaminating. You could use plywood with a solid wood "breadboard" edge on the upper edges, maybe? Rod Johnson, "SUNBIRD" 1979 O'DAY DS II #10201 former co-owner of "NODROG" 1970 CAL 21 #285 On Mon, 23 Jan 2012 14:58:32 -0500 "Mike McElhaney"<mi… [at] wahini.org> writes: Ben, We are in the process of replacing the cockpit coaming on our Cal-40 with Ipe (pronounced eepay). It is a very hard, oily and heavy wood but not nearly as expensive as teak. I would recommend it in lieu of plywood. You don't want to do the job again nor do you want to be the dreaded PO (previous owner). We replaced our toerail with this as well and it came out nice. I can't attest to how it holds varnish as we haven't done that yet. We plan on oiling as needed. Mike M. Celtic Naut From: Allen Edwards <al… [at] gmail.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Mon, Jan 23, 2012 19:47:27 GMT+00:00 Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] New Boards mahogany marine plywood would be my recommendation Allen On Jan 23, 2012 10:43 AM, "Benjamin Buehler" <be… [at] priceyourglass.com> wrote: Hello folks, First, I'm kind of a sailing newbie. I'm sure there is a sailing term for these things, but I'm not sure...freeboard maybe? Regardless, I need to replace the two boards that act as backrests running the length of the cockpit on my 1967 cal 34. I think they were teak, but are completely trashed. I'd like to not use teak. I need something I can put high gloss varnish on and have it look good for awhile. It's somewhat curved, so I'm not sure how hard of a wood I can use, but I'm open for suggestions on wood type please. Thanks so much, Ben Groupon™ Official Site 1 ridiculously huge coupon a day. Get 50-90% off your city's best! Groupon.com

The cockpit on my cal 28 is all fiberglass on the outside. Plywood sections were laminated in, below deck, for strength. Might be an option.. but I don't really know what your looking at. On Mon, Jan 23, 2012 at 2:47 PM, r good <my… [at] hotmail.com> wrote: > ** > > > this is probably bordering on travesty, but I would probably replace with > teak colored engineered wood like Trex. I am not one to love the zen of > varnishing. > > I machined trex to replace the teak companionway cover slide rails, > companionway exterior trim and threshold 6 or 7 seasons ago on our T/2. > Boat lives year round outside, no protection in the summers, occasional > protection in the winters, still looks great and folks think it is teak > unless they are up close and know better. Chosing the correct color is > very important. no scraping. no sanding. no varnishing. no oiing. Just > sailing! > > Reggie > > > ------------------------------ > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > From: ti… [at] ch2m.com > Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2012 22:19:15 +0000 > Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] New Boards > > > > > I’m not good at recommendations without understanding exactly what you are > trying to do, or accomplish. > > > > Can you be more specific? > > > > Teak is THE wood of yachts for many reasons. It’s natural properties > protect it without any care to a patina(sp) finish, or you can oil or > varnish to a thick honey glow as your time and energy allow. > > > > Plywoods will separate; I would think them to be completely unsuitable… > unless there is a product that I am unfamiliar with. > > > > I have seen light gray plastic used (Dancing Bear Cal 40), (sorry Mark – I > did not like it). > > > > On my boat the highly varnished teak coamings are closing in on half a > century of life and potentially have at least double that life left. > > > > I have IPE decking at my home, it is typically acid washed and oiled… (for > boat purposes oiled wood stains clothing and can be slippery) Ipe would be > a similar lovely material as teak, I believe it to be much harder and > heavier. IPE has very interesting properties… like fireproof and unable to > float, it has a history as a marine hardwood – misnomered “Ironwood” > > > > Finally it is your boat, do what makes you happy. > > > > Cheers, > > * * > > *[image: cid:image005.png@01CBF93B.85770E70]* > > *Timm Lessley* > > 503.863.4019 Cell to cell calls > > > > *From:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] *On > Behalf Of *Rodney G. Johnson > *Sent:* Monday, January 23, 2012 12:11 PM > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] New Boards > > > > >  > > From experience, plywood, even "marine" plywood would not be my first > choice. Marine plywood IS better than Exterior plywood for this, but still > may not hold varnish well on the upper edges, leading to delaminating. You > could use plywood with a solid wood "breadboard" edge on the upper edges, > maybe? > > > > Rod Johnson, "SUNBIRD" > > 1979 O'DAY DS II #10201 > > former co-owner of "NODROG" > > 1970 CAL 21 #285 > > > > On Mon, 23 Jan 2012 14:58:32 -0500 "Mike McElhaney"<mi… [at] wahini.org> > writes: > > > > Ben, > We are in the process of replacing the cockpit coaming on our Cal-40 with > Ipe (pronounced eepay). It is a very hard, oily and heavy wood but not > nearly as expensive as teak. I would recommend it in lieu of plywood. You > don't want to do the job again nor do you want to be the dreaded PO > (previous owner). > We replaced our toerail with this as well and it came out nice. I can't > attest to how it holds varnish as we haven't done that yet. We plan on > oiling as needed. > Mike M. > Celtic Naut > > *Sent from my Motorola ATRIX™ 4G on AT&T* > > > > -----Original message----- > > *From: *Allen Edwards <al… [at] gmail.com>* > To: *Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com* > Sent: *Mon, Jan 23, 2012 19:47:27 GMT+00:00* > Subject: *Re: [Cal_Boats] New Boards > mahogany marine plywood would be my recommendation > Allen > > On Jan 23, 2012 10:43 AM, "Benjamin Buehler" <be… [at] priceyourglass.com> > wrote: > > > Hello folks, > First, I'm kind of a sailing newbie. I'm sure there is a sailing term for > these things, but I'm not sure...freeboard maybe? > Regardless, I need to replace the two boards that act as backrests running > the length of the cockpit on my 1967 cal 34. I think they were teak, but > are completely trashed. I'd like to not use teak. I need something I can > put high gloss varnish on and have it look good for awhile. It's somewhat > curved, so I'm not sure how hard of a wood I can use, but I'm open for > suggestions on wood type please. > Thanks so much, > Ben > > > > > > ____________________________________________________________ > *Groupon™ Official Site* > 1 ridiculously huge coupon a day. Get 50-90% off your city's best! > <http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/4f1dbf4daed5a6f2d7dst01duc> > Groupon.com<http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/4f1dbf4daed5a6f2d7dst01duc> > > > >

The mahogany marine plywood coamings on Papoose are more than half a century old and as the OP didn't want to spring for teak, seemed like a good compromise although you need to do something with the edge. Papoose has half round bronze strips on the edge. If it was teak, it seems unlikely that it has rotted away. The teak on Papoose is also from 1956, has never been varnished or otherwise cared for except for its cleaning every decade or so and, while it isn't near show ready, it works fine and has not rotted. Perhaps all that is needed is a good sanding. All of that said, I withdraw my recommendation for plywood and would recommend teak as the piece of wood in question is much smaller than the equivalent on Papoose and in the long run isn't that expensive boat wise. Takes me a while to realize most of you have boats that are plastic. Allen On Mon, Jan 23, 2012 at 2:19 PM, <ti… [at] ch2m.com> wrote: > ** > > > I’m not good at recommendations without understanding exactly what you > are trying to do, or accomplish.**** > > ** ** > > Can you be more specific?**** > > ** ** > > Teak is THE wood of yachts for many reasons. It’s natural properties > protect it without any care to a patina(sp) finish, or you can oil or > varnish to a thick honey glow as your time and energy allow.**** > > ** ** > > Plywoods will separate; I would think them to be completely unsuitable… > unless there is a product that I am unfamiliar with.**** > > ** ** > > I have seen light gray plastic used (Dancing Bear Cal 40), (sorry Mark – I > did not like it).**** > > ** ** > > On my boat the highly varnished teak coamings are closing in on half a > century of life and potentially have at least double that life left.**** > > ** ** > > I have IPE decking at my home, it is typically acid washed and oiled… (for > boat purposes oiled wood stains clothing and can be slippery) Ipe would be > a similar lovely material as teak, I believe it to be much harder and > heavier. IPE has very interesting properties… like fireproof and unable to > float, it has a history as a marine hardwood – misnomered “Ironwood”**** > > ** ** > > Finally it is your boat, do what makes you happy.**** > > ** ** > > Cheers,**** > > * * > > *[image: cid:image005.png@01CBF93B.85770E70]* > > *Timm Lessley* > > 503.863.4019 Cell to cell calls**** > > ** ** > > *From:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] *On > Behalf Of *Rodney G. Johnson > *Sent:* Monday, January 23, 2012 12:11 PM > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > > *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] New Boards**** > > ** ** > > **** > >  **** > > From experience, plywood, even "marine" plywood would not be my first > choice. Marine plywood IS better than Exterior plywood for this, but still > may not hold varnish well on the upper edges, leading to delaminating. You > could use plywood with a solid wood "breadboard" edge on the upper edges, > maybe?**** > > **** > > Rod Johnson, "SUNBIRD"**** > > 1979 O'DAY DS II #10201**** > > former co-owner of "NODROG"**** > > 1970 CAL 21 #285**** > > **** > > On Mon, 23 Jan 2012 14:58:32 -0500 "Mike McElhaney"<mi… [at] wahini.org> > writes:**** > > **** > > Ben, > We are in the process of replacing the cockpit coaming on our Cal-40 with > Ipe (pronounced eepay). It is a very hard, oily and heavy wood but not > nearly as expensive as teak. I would recommend it in lieu of plywood. You > don't want to do the job again nor do you want to be the dreaded PO > (previous owner). > We replaced our toerail with this as well and it came out nice. I can't > attest to how it holds varnish as we haven't done that yet. We plan on > oiling as needed. > Mike M. > Celtic Naut > > *Sent from my Motorola ATRIX™ 4G on AT&T***** > > > > -----Original message-----**** > > *From: *Allen Edwards <al… [at] gmail.com>* > To: *Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com* > Sent: *Mon, Jan 23, 2012 19:47:27 GMT+00:00* > Subject: *Re: [Cal_Boats] New Boards**** > > mahogany marine plywood would be my recommendation**** > > Allen **** > > On Jan 23, 2012 10:43 AM, "Benjamin Buehler" <be… [at] priceyourglass.com> > wrote:**** > > **** > > Hello folks, > First, I'm kind of a sailing newbie. I'm sure there is a sailing term for > these things, but I'm not sure...freeboard maybe? > Regardless, I need to replace the two boards that act as backrests running > the length of the cockpit on my 1967 cal 34. I think they were teak, but > are completely trashed. I'd like to not use teak. I need something I can > put high gloss varnish on and have it look good for awhile. It's somewhat > curved, so I'm not sure how hard of a wood I can use, but I'm open for > suggestions on wood type please. > Thanks so much, > Ben**** > > **** > > > > ____________________________________________________________ > *Groupon™ Official Site*<http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/4f1dbf4daed5a6f2d7dst01duc> > > 1 ridiculously huge coupon a day. Get 50-90% off your city's best! > <http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/4f1dbf4daed5a6f2d7dst01duc> > Groupon.com<http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/4f1dbf4daed5a6f2d7dst01duc> > **** > > **** > > >

Thanks Rod, I think I may have some Ox-a-lick acid (sounds organic spelled that way) somewhere in me dock box. I may try some bleach solution since I kinda think one oxidizer may work in place of another, we'll see. I found bleach diluted four to one will wash off the grey from teak just as fast as any other method, it was suggested by a coating maker similar to that other better known brand, which I can't remember either. I'm at the stage when I can't remember to zip up the porthole in my leg coverings either, but that's more an issue for sand crab's concerns. Jerry, Shpritz From: Rodney G. Johnson <rj… [at] juno.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, January 23, 2012 1:03 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] New Boards  Jerry, I think you are referring to a scarf-joint? to clean the brown haze off your topsides, I'd suggest either "Y-10" or "FSR" They are gel-like cleaners that contain oxalic acid and do a WONDERFUL job cleaning waterline stains off. The catch though is that you may need to haul out your boat....... I don't know if the tree-hugging state of California will want you washing chemicals into the water. Even relatively mild ones like these? I remember reading once about a guy who was arrested for sanding his teak rails while afloat....... the dust was polluting the harbor? We have used Y-10 on our boats for years, you brush the gel onto the stains, wait a few minutes and then rinse off with soap and water. The stain should be gone (and the area where you applied it will pretty much match the original color of the surface (if your boat is/was white...... put on your sunglasses!) I believe it is safe to use on painted as well as gel coat surfaces. Perhaps there is a more environmentally safe version of these cleaners? Try GOOGLE "Aussan Naturals" Rod Johnson, "SUNBIRD" 1979 O'DAY DS II #10201 former co-owner of "NODROG" 1970 CAL 21 #285 On Mon, 23 Jan 2012 12:50:50 -0800 (PST) Gerald Sobel <so… [at] yahoo.com> writes: >I'm in a similar situation with the toe rail of me Cal 24. The Teak is fractured and falling off, and I'm thinking of..perish the thought, or replacing it with a plastic extrusion like the one over my stern. I know it wouldn't look purty tho. It's a U shaped piece of wood, and on my boat it is made of two 12' lengths that are spiced (I ferget the correct term) in the middle. I've also thought of using three thin strips of wood, glued and screwed together, to make this part. I would love to pay less fro Ipe than Teak! Maybe I could pick up some cheap from the cruise ship Costa-a lot- Concordia if they decided to break it up. (looks like if the ship went straight instead of turning away from the island at that instant, it my have missed that reef, which is, I read, even marked on tourist maps. The gash in the hull is along the stern quarter of the hull) > > > >Also, what's the easiest way to remove that brown haze that's been growing on my hull sides that makes my boat un-yacht-like in pictures...vinegar? Hydrochloric acid? Bleach? > >Cap Tin Jerry and his Venerable Cal 24-I "Shpritz" > > > > >________________________________ > From: Rodney G. Johnson <rj… [at] juno.com> >To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com >Sent: Monday, January 23, 2012 12:11 PM >Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] New Boards > > > > >From experience, plywood, even "marine" plywood would not be my first choice. Marine plywood IS better than Exterior plywood for this, but still may not hold varnish well on the upper edges, leading to delamination. You could use plywood with a solid wood "breadboard" edge on the upper edges, maybe? > >Rod Johnson, "SUNBIRD" >1979 O'DAY DS II #10201 >former co-owner of "NODROG" >1970 CAL 21 #285 > >On Mon, 23 Jan 2012 14:58:32 -0500 "Mike McElhaney"<mi… [at] wahini.org> writes: > >>Ben, >>We are in the process of replacing the cockpit coaming on our Cal-40 with Ipe (pronounced eepay). It is a very hard, oily and heavy wood but not nearly as expensive as teak. I would recommend it in lieu of plywood. You don't want to do the job again nor do you want to be the dreaded PO (previous owner). >>We replaced our toerail with this as well and it came out nice. I can't attest to how it holds varnish as we haven't done that yet. We plan on oiling as needed. >>Mike M. >>Celtic Naut >> >>Sent from my Motorola ATRIX™ 4G on AT&T >> >>-----Original message----- >> >>From: Allen Edwards <al… [at] gmail.com> >>>To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com >>>Sent: Mon, Jan 23, 2012 19:47:27 GMT+00:00 >>>Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] New Boards >>> >>> >>>mahogany marine plywood would be my recommendation >>>Allen >>>On Jan 23, 2012 10:43 AM, "Benjamin Buehler" <be… [at] priceyourglass.com> wrote: >>> >>> >>>> >>>>Hello folks, >>>>First, I'm kind of a sailing newbie. I'm sure there is a sailing term for these things, but I'm not sure...freeboard maybe? >>>>Regardless, I need to replace the two boards that act as backrests running the length of the cockpit on my 1967 cal 34. I think they were teak, but are completely trashed. I'd like to not use teak. I need something I can put high gloss varnish on and have it look good for awhile. It's somewhat curved, so I'm not sure how hard of a wood I can use, but I'm open for suggestions on wood type please. >>>>Thanks so much, >>>>Ben >>>> >>>> >> > >____________________________________________________________ >Groupon™ Official Site >1 ridiculously huge coupon a day. Get 50-90% off your city's best! >Groupon.com > > > Groupon™ Official Site 1 ridiculously huge coupon a day. Get 50-90% off your city's best! Groupon.com

On 1/23/2012 3:06 PM, Rodney G. Johnson wrote: > > Correct term for the cockpit backrests would be "Cockpit Coamings" > sounds like/ "comb"/ > Freeboard is defined as the distance from the water line to the gunwale. > *Gunwale:* The edge where the deck meets the topsides > *Topsides:* The surface of the hull, above the waterline (ie: the > "top" part of the sides) > */and.... to add to everyone's sailing dictionary:/* > *Ceiling:* the covering for the inside of the hull. traditionally on > wooden boats it consisted of wood slats on the inside of the frames. > *Overhead:* the underside of a deck or cabin "roof". Wow, Rod, thank you for posting this so I didn't have to do it! Part of the fun of sailing is learning its vocabulary. It connects us with all the sailors who have gone to sea before us, it gives us a bit of distinction as a sort of separate species, and it is precise in descriptive terms. We don't just pull that rope over there. We use lines with names like sheet, halyard, rode, guy, and topping lift. Each one means something. You don't have to learn them all at once. I just counted and my sailing experience goes back 52 years (!!!) and I'm still learning. Activities that you can master in one sitting aren't much fun, are they? Chris Campbell