Re: [Cal_Boats] Hull to Deck Joint Leaks [1 Attachment]

Charlie, this is an old thread, (well ,not THAT old!) but anyway, in the powerpoint you mentioned that the CAL 40 hull-deck joint was different. We need to add that the CAL 21 hull-deck joint is also different..from what I recall, the CAL 21 had a typical "Shoe Box" Hull/deck joint, in other words, the deck fit over the gunwale just like the lid of a shoe box fits over the bottom of the box. Some kind of sealant/resin/putty was injected between and then a continuous aluminum extrusion with a rubber/vinyl insert was screwed over the edge. As best as I can recall, screws were driven through the aluminum before the rubber/vinyl insert was.....well, inserted. These screws went into a wooden molding placed on the inside of the gunwale. We never had a leak through the joint that we noticed. This wood molding made a great spot to fasten various brackets and eyes for hanging gear inside the cabin. Across the transom there was no rub-rail, just an aluminum trim strip that really didn't adequately seal the hull-deck joint on it's own, it just covered the top of the seam. The edge of the deck appeared to be screwed down to the hull with the screws apparently threaded into a plywood strip across the top of the transom. We never experienced any known problems there, but some owners did have to replace the plywood after it rotted out. The other weird detail on the 21 was that it seems that the backstay chainplate was held in place with wood screws? Not bolts! At least we never did find any evidence of fasteners from the inside of the transom....... never dared unscrew any of the screws visible on the outside of the chainplate. No signs of loosening in the 28 years we owned our boat...so, who knows? Perhaps blind nuts were used inside, but if so, they weren't visible from inside. Rod Johnson, "SUNBIRD" 1979 O'DAY DS II #10201 former co-owner of "NODROG" 1970 CAL 21 #285 53 Year Old Mom Looks 33 The Stunning Results of Her Wrinkle Trick Has Botox Doctors Worried http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4f46c00d1c6bb19df9dcst04duc

The Cal 40 hull-deck joint was horizontal and had a step to allow the deck to lie in the flange of the hull. Bolts were drilled and fastened through the joint and it was sealed with a compound Similar to that which seals winches on the deck. The toe rail was part of the joint and the bolts went through it. I have photos on my web site of replacing the toe rail and sealing the joint. It is a big job but Wendy Siegel did one side and did it in the slip. MIke Kennedy Formerly Conquest hull # 96. On Feb 23, 2012, at 2:38 PM, Rodney G. Johnson wrote: >  > > Charlie, this is an old thread, (well ,not THAT old!) but anyway, in the powerpoint you mentioned that the CAL 40 hull-deck joint was different. We need to add that the CAL 21 hull-deck joint is also different..from what I recall, the CAL 21 had a typical "Shoe Box" Hull/deck joint, in other words, the deck fit over the gunwale just like the lid of a shoe box fits over the bottom of the box. Some kind of sealant/resin/putty was injected between and then a continuous aluminum extrusion with a rubber/vinyl insert was screwed over the edge. As best as I can recall, screws were driven through the aluminum before the rubber/vinyl insert was.....well, inserted. These screws went into a wooden molding placed on the inside of the gunwale. We never had a leak through the joint that we noticed. This wood molding made a great spot to fasten various brackets and eyes for hanging gear inside the cabin. Across the transom there was no rub-rail, just an aluminum trim strip that really didn't adequately seal the hull-deck joint on it's own, it just covered the top of the seam. The edge of the deck appeared to be screwed down to the hull with the screws apparently threaded into a plywood strip across the top of the transom. We never experienced any known problems there, but some owners did have to replace the plywood after it rotted out. > The other weird detail on the 21 was that it seems that the backstay chainplate was held in place with wood screws? Not bolts! At least we never did find any evidence of fasteners from the inside of the transom....... never dared unscrew any of the screws visible on the outside of the chainplate. No signs of loosening in the 28 years we owned our boat...so, who knows? Perhaps blind nuts were used inside, but if so, they weren't visible from inside. > > Rod Johnson, "SUNBIRD" > 1979 O'DAY DS II #10201 > former co-owner of "NODROG" > 1970 CAL 21 #285 > > > > > > ____________________________________________________________ > 53 Year Old Mom Looks 33 > The Stunning Results of Her Wrinkle Trick Has Botox Doctors Worried > consumerproducts.com > >

Rod, to quote from a famous movie, that whole arrangement sounds like “a goddamn marvel of modern science”. I think I will take my next boat joining inspiration from the lid on a tub of sour cream. Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Rodney G. Johnson Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2012 5:38 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Hull to Deck Joint Leaks  Charlie, this is an old thread, (well ,not THAT old!) but anyway, in the powerpoint you mentioned that the CAL 40 hull-deck joint was different. We need to add that the CAL 21 hull-deck joint is also different..from what I recall, the CAL 21 had a typical "Shoe Box" Hull/deck joint, in other words, the deck fit over the gunwale just like the lid of a shoe box fits over the bottom of the box. Some kind of sealant/resin/putty was injected between and then a continuous aluminum extrusion with a rubber/vinyl insert was screwed over the edge. As best as I can recall, screws were driven through the aluminum before the rubber/vinyl insert was.....well, inserted. These screws went into a wooden molding placed on the inside of the gunwale. We never had a leak through the joint that we noticed. This wood molding made a great spot to fasten various brackets and eyes for hanging gear inside the cabin. Across the transom there was no rub-rail, just an aluminum trim strip that really didn't adequately seal the hull-deck joint on it's own, it just covered the top of the seam. The edge of the deck appeared to be screwed down to the hull with the screws apparently threaded into a plywood strip across the top of the transom. We never experienced any known problems there, but some owners did have to replace the plywood after it rotted out. The other weird detail on the 21 was that it seems that the backstay chainplate was held in place with wood screws? Not bolts! At least we never did find any evidence of fasteners from the inside of the transom....... never dared unscrew any of the screws visible on the outside of the chainplate. No signs of loosening in the 28 years we owned our boat...so, who knows? Perhaps blind nuts were used inside, but if so, they weren't visible from inside. Rod Johnson, "SUNBIRD" 1979 O'DAY DS II #10201 former co-owner of "NODROG" 1970 CAL 21 #285 53 Year Old Mom Looks 33 The Stunning Results of Her Wrinkle Trick Has Botox Doctors Worried <http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/4f46c00d1c6bb19df9dcst04duc>consumerproducts.com<http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/4f46c00d1c6bb19df9dcst04duc>

Does anyone have an source for replacing the hatch cover on a Cal 27 Mark III... or a way to repair it? David Cal 27 Mark III Latitude Changer

On 2/24/2012 9:55 PM, David Field wrote: > Does anyone have an source for replacing the hatch cover on a Cal 27 > Mark III... or a way to repair it? I'm guessing, from other replies, that this is a fiberglass hatch cover. If so, it ought to be easy to repair it using epoxy & fiberglass cloth. West System (Gougeon Brothers) offer really good publications on repairs and construction issues, and I think they're all available online. Epoxy bonds well to old polyester-resin fiberglass structures when the surfaces are prepared properly. The Gougeon folks are really devoted to engineering so their recommendations are trustworthy. My Cal 20's original fiberglass hatch cover is surprisingly strong. I say it's surprising because it's not supported all the way around. The first owner added some little teak blocks under the forward edge to raise it a little, giving some ventilation through the boat. I don't get enough green water on deck to worry about that, but having ventilation in the summer is a big plus. In any event, I tend to stand on the cover when securing my sail cover, and it's interesting that it doesn't complain about my 200 (plus a little) pounds. Chris Campbell