Interior Coating Paint

My Cal29 (576329NET9) interior coating is now flaking off in large pieces. This is happening inside lockers and on exposed cabin surfaces. Has anyone experienced this? I'd be grateful for any ideas on how to re-coat these surfaces.

On 3/17/2012 2:50 PM, Raymond wrote: > > My Cal29 (576329NET9) interior coating is now flaking off in large > pieces. This is happening inside lockers and on exposed cabin surfaces. > > Has anyone experienced this? I'd be grateful for any ideas on how to > re-coat these surfaces. > I'm replying late to this inquiry. My Cal 20 #1220 from 1967 had the flaky-interior problem. Where the stuff wanted to flake, it just let go. Where it did not want to flake, it held on with astonishing tenacity. I did not want to just paint over everything, because I knew that next year, a bunch of new flakes would let loose. My solution was to buy the most powerful available paint remover (the most aggressive form of Zip-Strip) and let it do its thing. It was slow but persistent. There were a few areas where removal of the interior finish revealed unsaturated fiberglass, so I applied some epoxy there. Then I painted with Pettit's interior boat paint, now renamed "EZ Cabin Coat." Here's the page: > http://www.pettitpaint.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=52 I had it tinted to match the old interior color, a buff color, exactly. It's a semigloss, it adheres to most surfaces, and it resists mildew. I've been very satisfied. Chris Campbell > >

I have tried this and I urge caution. Rather than revealing unsaturated fiberglass, I would suggest that the stripper desaturated the glass. That was just my experience. Wilkie On Mar 27, 2012, at 6:48 AM, Chris Campbell wrote: On 3/17/2012 2:50 PM, Raymond wrote: > > My Cal29 (576329NET9) interior coating is now flaking off in large pieces. This is happening inside lockers and on exposed cabin surfaces. > > Has anyone experienced this? I'd be grateful for any ideas on how to > re-coat these surfaces. > I'm replying late to this inquiry. My Cal 20 #1220 from 1967 had the flaky-interior problem. Where the stuff wanted to flake, it just let go. Where it did not want to flake, it held on with astonishing tenacity. I did not want to just paint over everything, because I knew that next year, a bunch of new flakes would let loose. My solution was to buy the most powerful available paint remover (the most aggressive form of Zip-Strip) and let it do its thing. It was slow but persistent. There were a few areas where removal of the interior finish revealed unsaturated fiberglass, so I applied some epoxy there. Then I painted with Pettit's interior boat paint, now renamed "EZ Cabin Coat." Here's the page: > http://www.pettitpaint.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=52 I had it tinted to match the old interior color, a buff color, exactly. It's a semigloss, it adheres to most surfaces, and it resists mildew. I've been very satisfied. Chris Campbell >

I too had an interior finish issue with 2 Cal20's Hull 61 & 1114 I used a very high solids quick dry primer mixed with West Marine(Interlux) topside paint. I took a wire brush and removed the loose paint. I used a Bahama tan and a gloss white mix with about a 40% primer mix. When both boats went to new owners the interiors still looked great. I would caution against removal with stripper or paint remover. This is hazardous to your health. My Best, Mike Farrell From: David Owen <dw… [at] me.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2012 8:06 AM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Interior Coating Paint I have tried this and I urge caution. Rather than revealing unsaturated fiberglass, I would suggest that the stripper desaturated the glass. That was just my experience. Wilkie On Mar 27, 2012, at 6:48 AM, Chris Campbell wrote: On 3/17/2012 2:50 PM, Raymond wrote: My Cal29 (576329NET9) interior coating is now flaking off in large pieces. This is happening inside lockers and on exposed cabin surfaces. > >Has anyone experienced this? I'd be grateful for any ideas on how to >re-coat these surfaces. > I'm replying late to this inquiry. My Cal 20 #1220 from 1967 had the flaky-interior problem. Where the stuff wanted to flake, it just let go. Where it did not want to flake, it held on with astonishing tenacity. I did not want to just paint over everything, because I knew that next year, a bunch of new flakes would let loose. My solution was to buy the most powerful available paint remover (the most aggressive form of Zip-Strip) and let it do its thing. It was slow but persistent. There were a few areas where removal of the interior finish revealed unsaturated fiberglass, so I applied some epoxy there. Then I painted with Pettit's interior boat paint, now renamed "EZ Cabin Coat." Here's the page: http://www.pettitpaint.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=52I had it tinted to match the old interior color, a buff color, exactly. It's a semigloss, it adheres to most surfaces, and it resists mildew. I've been very satisfied. Chris Campbell >

Replying to both Mike and Wilkie, I'll note that a Cal 20 is small enough relative to the companionway size that I was able to ventilate reasonably. After a couple minor cancer scares (prostate biopsies) I am a bit more cautious about chemical exposure than in my reckless youth (but not obsessive yet). As to the paint remover causing the unsaturated 'glass, I thought the same thing at first. Then I notices that it was very spotty, typically where there was a glass edge (overlapping layers, etc.). I concluded that this was just production error, and further, that this @#$&**%!!!! concoction that they used for an interior finish may have been designed precisely to fill unsaturated areas. It's thick and suitable to that purpose. Chris Campbell On 3/27/2012 3:56 PM, mike farrell wrote: > I too had an interior finish issue with 2 Cal20's Hull 61 & 1114 I > used a very high solids quick dry primer mixed with West > Marine(Interlux) topside paint. I took a wire brush and removed the > loose paint. I used a Bahama tan and a gloss white mix with about a > 40% primer mix. When both boats went to new owners the interiors > still looked great. I would caution against removal with stripper or > paint remover. This is hazardous to your health. > My Best, Mike Farrell > *From:* David Owen <dw… [at] me.com> > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > *Sent:* Tuesday, March 27, 2012 8:06 AM > *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] Interior Coating Paint > > > > > > > I have tried this and I urge caution. Rather than revealing > unsaturated fiberglass, I would suggest that the stripper desaturated > the glass. That was just my experience. > > Wilkie > > > On Mar 27, 2012, at 6:48 AM, Chris Campbell wrote: > > > > On 3/17/2012 2:50 PM, Raymond wrote: >> My Cal29 (576329NET9) interior coating is now flaking off in large >> pieces. This is happening inside lockers and on exposed cabin surfaces. >> >> Has anyone experienced this? I'd be grateful for any ideas on how to >> re-coat these surfaces. > > I'm replying late to this inquiry. My Cal 20 #1220 from 1967 had the > flaky-interior problem. Where the stuff wanted to flake, it just let > go. Where it did not want to flake, it held on with astonishing > tenacity. I did not want to just paint over everything, because I > knew that next year, a bunch of new flakes would let loose. > > My solution was to buy the most powerful available paint remover (the > most aggressive form of Zip-Strip) and let it do its thing. It was > slow but persistent. There were a few areas where removal of the > interior finish revealed unsaturated fiberglass, so I applied some > epoxy there. Then I painted with Pettit's interior boat paint, now > renamed "EZ Cabin Coat." Here's the page: >> http://www.pettitpaint.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=52 > I had it tinted to match the old interior color, a buff color, > exactly. It's a semigloss, it adheres to most surfaces, and it > resists mildew. I've been very satisfied. > > Chris Campbell > >> > > > > > > > > >

Chris, I can't agree with you. I experimented with different strippers and some of the less aggressive ones are ok if you keep an eye on them, but the Jabsco heavy duty stripper absolutely removes resin from the cloth. You must be very careful using this stuff. Wilkie On Mar 27, 2012, at 7:19 PM, Chris Campbell wrote: Replying to both Mike and Wilkie, I'll note that a Cal 20 is small enough relative to the companionway size that I was able to ventilate reasonably. After a couple minor cancer scares (prostate biopsies) I am a bit more cautious about chemical exposure than in my reckless youth (but not obsessive yet). As to the paint remover causing the unsaturated 'glass, I thought the same thing at first. Then I notices that it was very spotty, typically where there was a glass edge (overlapping layers, etc.). I concluded that this was just production error, and further, that this @#$&**%!!!! concoction that they used for an interior finish may have been designed precisely to fill unsaturated areas. It's thick and suitable to that purpose. Chris Campbell On 3/27/2012 3:56 PM, mike farrell wrote: > > I too had an interior finish issue with 2 Cal20's Hull 61 & 1114 I used a very high solids quick dry primer mixed with West Marine(Interlux) topside paint. I took a wire brush and removed the loose paint. I used a Bahama tan and a gloss white mix with about a 40% primer mix. When both boats went to new owners the interiors still looked great. I would caution against removal with stripper or paint remover. This is hazardous to your health. > My Best, Mike Farrell > From: David Owen <dw… [at] me.com> > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2012 8:06 AM > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Interior Coating Paint > > > > > > > I have tried this and I urge caution. Rather than revealing unsaturated fiberglass, I would suggest that the stripper desaturated the glass. That was just my experience. > > Wilkie > > > On Mar 27, 2012, at 6:48 AM, Chris Campbell wrote: > > > > On 3/17/2012 2:50 PM, Raymond wrote: >> >> My Cal29 (576329NET9) interior coating is now flaking off in large pieces. This is happening inside lockers and on exposed cabin surfaces. >> >> Has anyone experienced this? I'd be grateful for any ideas on how to >> re-coat these surfaces. > > I'm replying late to this inquiry. My Cal 20 #1220 from 1967 had the flaky-interior problem. Where the stuff wanted to flake, it just let go. Where it did not want to flake, it held on with astonishing tenacity. I did not want to just paint over everything, because I knew that next year, a bunch of new flakes would let loose. > > My solution was to buy the most powerful available paint remover (the most aggressive form of Zip-Strip) and let it do its thing. It was slow but persistent. There were a few areas where removal of the interior finish revealed unsaturated fiberglass, so I applied some epoxy there. Then I painted with Pettit's interior boat paint, now renamed "EZ Cabin Coat." Here's the page: >> http://www.pettitpaint.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=52 > I had it tinted to match the old interior color, a buff color, exactly. It's a semigloss, it adheres to most surfaces, and it resists mildew. I've been very satisfied. > > Chris Campbell > >> > > > > > > > >

I tried the chemicals just long enough to decide that I prefer a dusty mess to a gooey mess. Emptied the boat. Using a 4.5" grinder converted for flapper disks, I went at it. Grind away. Hose out and pump out several times. Acetone (or similar) wipe. The paint of your choice. Yuk! Dress well. Full face respirator mask. Full dust suit. Heavy gloves (the flapper disk sander is quite aggressive). I found oyster shucking gloves to be good. Wearing the shower caps they provide at hotels also helps. Don't drop the grinder/sander! Most of them do not have an auto-shutoff. Cheers, Anyway Charlie Annapolis From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of David Owen Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2012 12:32 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Interior Coating Paint Chris, I can't agree with you. I experimented with different strippers and some of the less aggressive ones are ok if you keep an eye on them, but the Jabsco heavy duty stripper absolutely removes resin from the cloth. You must be very careful using this stuff. Wilkie On Mar 27, 2012, at 7:19 PM, Chris Campbell wrote: Replying to both Mike and Wilkie, I'll note that a Cal 20 is small enough relative to the companionway size that I was able to ventilate reasonably. After a couple minor cancer scares (prostate biopsies) I am a bit more cautious about chemical exposure than in my reckless youth (but not obsessive yet). As to the paint remover causing the unsaturated 'glass, I thought the same thing at first. Then I notices that it was very spotty, typically where there was a glass edge (overlapping layers, etc.). I concluded that this was just production error, and further, that this @#$&**%!!!! concoction that they used for an interior finish may have been designed precisely to fill unsaturated areas. It's thick and suitable to that purpose. Chris Campbell On 3/27/2012 3:56 PM, mike farrell wrote: I too had an interior finish issue with 2 Cal20's Hull 61 & 1114 I used a very high solids quick dry primer mixed with West Marine(Interlux) topside paint. I took a wire brush and removed the loose paint. I used a Bahama tan and a gloss white mix with about a 40% primer mix. When both boats went to new owners the interiors still looked great. I would caution against removal with stripper or paint remover. This is hazardous to your health. My Best, Mike Farrell From: David Owen <dw… [at] me.com><mailto:dw… [at] me.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2012 8:06 AM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Interior Coating Paint I have tried this and I urge caution. Rather than revealing unsaturated fiberglass, I would suggest that the stripper desaturated the glass. That was just my experience. Wilkie On Mar 27, 2012, at 6:48 AM, Chris Campbell wrote: On 3/17/2012 2:50 PM, Raymond wrote: My Cal29 (576329NET9) interior coating is now flaking off in large pieces. This is happening inside lockers and on exposed cabin surfaces. Has anyone experienced this? I'd be grateful for any ideas on how to re-coat these surfaces. I'm replying late to this inquiry. My Cal 20 #1220 from 1967 had the flaky-interior problem. Where the stuff wanted to flake, it just let go. Where it did not want to flake, it held on with astonishing tenacity. I did not want to just paint over everything, because I knew that next year, a bunch of new flakes would let loose. My solution was to buy the most powerful available paint remover (the most aggressive form of Zip-Strip) and let it do its thing. It was slow but persistent. There were a few areas where removal of the interior finish revealed unsaturated fiberglass, so I applied some epoxy there. Then I painted with Pettit's interior boat paint, now renamed "EZ Cabin Coat." Here's the page: http://www.pettitpaint.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=52 I had it tinted to match the old interior color, a buff color, exactly. It's a semigloss, it adheres to most surfaces, and it resists mildew. I've been very satisfied. Chris Campbell

as we speak edward is lightly stripping the whole main salon headliner ...citrus strip 2' X 4' area at a time 1) paint area 2) let set 8-10mins 3) scrape with plastic scraper putting orange stuff into small can 4) reapply with 2' chip brush in different direction over the same area with the used stuff 5) WAIT 5 minutes 6) rub in small circular motions with scoch brite pad turning to FRESH areas of pad as pad fills up use ends last 7) repeat with 2nd pad till it is full also 8)make sure you have HD GLOVES ,safety GLASSes 9) wipe down area with wet cotton towels(to stop process) 10)ctoch brite pads are reuseable and will clean with H2o the TRICK IS TO TAKE OFF 99% of old paint and try NOT to remove original "FACTORY" coating if you do these spots will have to be primed and filled and primed and sanded in between ...our Cal 36 was painted several TIMES and some paint has some flaking down to original also rusty oily mess caused more flaking in bilge area and the top inside lazarettes ...but this time he's working from top down...We painted the V berth and it came out GREAT!! From: David Owen <dw… [at] me.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2012 9:32 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Interior Coating Paint Chris, I can't agree with you. I experimented with different strippers and some of the less aggressive ones are ok if you keep an eye on them, but the Jabsco heavy duty stripper absolutely removes resin from the cloth. You must be very careful using this stuff. Wilkie On Mar 27, 2012, at 7:19 PM, Chris Campbell wrote: Replying to both Mike and Wilkie, I'll note that a Cal 20 is small enough relative to the companionway size that I was able to ventilate reasonably. After a couple minor cancer scares (prostate biopsies) I am a bit more cautious about chemical exposure than in my reckless youth (but not obsessive yet). As to the paint remover causing the unsaturated 'glass, I thought the same thing at first. Then I notices that it was very spotty, typically where there was a glass edge (overlapping layers, etc.). I concluded that this was just production error, and further, that this @#$&**%!!!! concoction that they used for an interior finish may have been designed precisely to fill unsaturated areas. It's thick and suitable to that purpose. Chris Campbell On 3/27/2012 3:56 PM, mike farrell wrote: I too had an interior finish issue with 2 Cal20's Hull 61 & 1114 I used ! a very high solids quick dry primer mixed with West Marine(Interlux) topside paint. I took a wire brush and removed the loose paint. I used a Bahama tan and a gloss white mix with about a 40% primer mix. When both boats went to new owners the interiors still looked great. I would caution against removal with stripper or paint remover. This is hazardous to your health. > My Best, Mike Farrell >From: David Owen <dw… [at] me.com> >To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com >Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2012 8:06 AM >Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Interior Coating Paint > > > > > > > > > > > >I have tried this and I urge caution. Rather than revealing unsaturated fiberglass, I would suggest that the stripper desaturated the glass. That was just my! experience. > > >Wilkie > > > >On Mar 27, 2012, at 6:48 AM, Chris Campbell wrote: > > >On 3/17/2012 2:50 PM, Raymond wrote: >My Cal29 (576329NET9) interior coating is now flaking off in large pieces. This is happening inside lockers and on exposed cabin surfaces. >> >>Has anyone experienced this? I'd be grateful for any ideas on how to >>re-coat these surfaces. >> >I'm replying late to this inquiry. My Cal 20 #1220 from 1967 had the flaky-interior problem. Where the stuff wanted to flake, it just let go. Where it did not want to flake, it held on with astonishing tenacity. I did not want to just paint over everything, because I knew that next year, a bunch of new flakes would let loose. > >My solution was to buy the most powerful available paint remover (the most aggressive form of Zip-Strip) and let it do its thing. It was slow but persistent. There were a few areas where removal of the interior finish revealed unsaturated fiberglass, so I applied some epoxy there. Then I painted with Pettit's interior boat paint, now renamed "EZ Cabin Coat." Here's the page: > >http://www.pettitpaint.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=52I had it tinted to match the old interior color, a buff color, exactly. It's a semigloss, it ad! heres to most surfaces, and it resists mildew. I've been very satisfied. > >Chris Campbell > > > >> > > > > > > > >

On 3/29/2012 12:44 AM, Husar, Charlie [USA] (ASE) wrote: > > I tried the chemicals just long enough to decide that I prefer a dusty > mess to a gooey mess. Emptied the boat. Using a 4.5" grinder > converted for flapper disks, I went at it. Grind away. Hose out and > pump out several times. Acetone (or similar) wipe. The paint of your > choice. Yuk! > My boat lives in the cheap seats during the off-season, which means far from electricity. Thus my reliance on chemicals. I worked in increments, which made the mess less messy. I'm a bit leery of dusty messes, having ingested brake-drum dust (asbestos), bottom-paint dust (copper), and house-paint dust (lead) before I became less stupid in my mature years. Neither vapor nor particles are especially good for us, so maybe we ought to be hiring the work out. As to the comments about resin removal, I'm not sure that the damage to glass fiber integrity from heavy sanding is any less damaging than the minor resin removal that may (I still think not) have occured on my boat. As noted before, most of the bare cloth I saw was at points where the factory application had been sloppy--edges of cloth that stood proud, etc. I had two surface areas with some bare cloth fibers, the biggest one maybe 3" x 6". It was easy to saturate with epoxy, and the depth was such that there was no real effect on hull strength or integrity. In those small areas where there was loose glass standing proud, I mostly just scraped the excess away. Chris Campbell > >

I will elaborate a bit. There are specifically formulated strippers that are safe for fiberglass and there are those that actively dissolve polyester resin. The fiberglass safe formulations don't work worth a damn, unfortunately, and are pretty safe for the painty goop that we want to strip off as well. :{ In fact, I successfully used an aggressive stripper by doing 2 X 2 panels and watching it closely. My only point was to caution somebody who might -- innocently -- use a heavy duty stripper on the inside of the topsides where the layup is already thin and leave it on long enough to cause damage. I've seen some pretty dry bits of glass cloth used for tabbing on my old Cal, so I know of what you speak. I was surprised that Jensen would leave a bit of glass cloth that dry and expect it to bond, and in fact it didn't bond very well for very long. I've redone ALL of the tabbing on Mariposa, a substantial bit of work over the years. Wilkie On Mar 29, 2012, at 7:08 AM, Chris Campbell wrote: On 3/29/2012 12:44 AM, Husar, Charlie [USA] (ASE) wrote: > > > I tried the chemicals just long enough to decide that I prefer a dusty mess to a gooey mess. Emptied the boat. Using a 4.5” grinder converted for flapper disks, I went at it. Grind away. Hose out and pump out several times. Acetone (or similar) wipe. The paint of your choice. Yuk! > My boat lives in the cheap seats during the off-season, which means far from electricity. Thus my reliance on chemicals. I worked in increments, which made the mess less messy. I'm a bit leery of dusty messes, having ingested brake-drum dust (asbestos), bottom-paint dust (copper), and house-paint dust (lead) before I became less stupid in my mature years. Neither vapor nor particles are especially good for us, so maybe we ought to be hiring the work out. As to the comments about resin removal, I'm not sure that the damage to glass fiber integrity from heavy sanding is any less damaging than the minor resin removal that may (I still think not) have occured on my boat. As noted before, most of the bare cloth I saw was at points where the factory application had been sloppy--edges of cloth that stood proud, etc. I had two surface areas with some bare cloth fibers, the biggest one maybe 3" x 6". It was easy to saturate with epoxy, and the depth was such that there was no real effect on hull strength or integrity. In those small areas where there was loose glass standing proud, I mostly just scraped the excess away. Chris Campbell > > > >

I'm a-fixen to reglue me tabbing sooner or later, but haven't decided which of several ways I may do it. Maybe a combo of contact cement along the edges, and high quality urethane roof mastic for most of the area? the contact cement should hold the tabing in place long enuff for the urethane to cure to strength, in a few hours max. I have one of them vibrating hand saw whatchamacallits but I don't want to get into the messy job or removing all the old tabing and making new ones, if the tabing is just loose here and there. The only place I may replace it is where the tabbing is split in half lengthwise where the V berth meets the hull along the side of the bow. Jerry Sobel, Shpritz, Cal 24 Homebuilt Mk 1 #71 From: David Owen <dw… [at] me.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2012 2:29 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Interior Coating Paint I will elaborate a bit. There are specifically formulated strippers that are safe for fiberglass and there are those that actively dissolve polyester resin. The fiberglass safe formulations don't work worth a damn, unfortunately, and are pretty safe for the painty goop that we want to strip off as well. :{ In fact, I successfully used an aggressive stripper by doing 2 X 2 panels and watching it closely. My only point was to caution somebody who might -- innocently -- use a heavy duty stripper on the inside of the topsides where the layup is already thin and leave it on long enough to cause damage. I've seen some pretty dry bits of glass cloth used for tabbing on my old Cal, so I know of what you speak. I was surprised that Jensen would leave a bit of glass cloth that dry and expect it to bond, and in fact it didn't bond very well for very long. I've redone ALL of the tabbing on Mariposa, a substantial bit of work over the years. Wilkie On Mar 29, 2012, at 7:08 AM, Chris Campbell wrote: On 3/29/2012 12:44 AM, Husar, Charlie [USA] (ASE) wrote: > >I tried the chemicals just long enough to decide that I prefer a dusty mess to a gooey mess. Emptied the boat. Using a 4.5” grinder converted for flapper disks, I went at it. Grind away. Hose out and pump out several times. Acetone (or similar) wipe. The paint of your choice. Yuk! My boat lives in the cheap seats during the off-season, which means far from electricity. Thus my reliance on chemicals. I worked in increments, which made the mess less messy. I'm a bit leery of dusty messes, having ingested brake-drum dust (asbestos), bottom-paint dust (copper), and house-paint dust (lead) before I became less stupid in my mature years. Neither vapor nor particles are especially good for us, so maybe we ought to be hiring the work out. As to the comments about resin removal, I'm not sure that the damage to glass fiber integrity from heavy sanding is any less damaging than the minor resin removal that may (I still think not) have occured on my boat. As noted before, most of the bare cloth I saw was at points where the factory application had been sloppy--edges of cloth that stood proud, etc. I had two surface areas with some bare cloth fibers, the biggest one maybe 3" x 6". It was easy to saturate with epoxy, and the depth was such that there was no real effect on hull strength or integrity. In those small areas where there was loose glass standing proud, I mostly just scraped the excess away. Chris Campbell >

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