Blocks for reeding lines

Listees, I am looking for input on how to mount blocks on my boom for reefing lines. I am considering three options. 1. Rigidly mount cheek blocks. This is what I've seen most from google searches but remember talking with a long term blue water cruiser that recommended: 2. Simple block on a shackle because the block will take best alignment to the line, both when it's hauled in or loose. I worry a bit about the block rattling around when the full sail is up and the reefing line is slack. Perhaps a canvas cover over the block? 3. I've also seen blocks on a track for the reefing lines, and I've actually got a track on the boom now, but it is in use for my outhaul. What are the pro and cons to this sort of an arrangement? I plan on a two line reefing setup, with the clew line going up through the cringle and then back down to a bowline around the boom. Thanks, Adam Cal28

I assume you are you talking about blocks on the aft end of the boom. If so, I would vote for some kind of fixed alignment as a block on a shackle will decide that the best alignment is cross wise with everything binding up. The track is really just a cheek block where you can't decide where it should go. I would just put the cheek block as far aft as you can and not bother with the track. I always find that when reefed, it is the aft pulling tension that is hard to get. Hope this helps. Allen On Sat, Mar 31, 2012 at 4:16 PM, Adam Thorp <th… [at] gmail.com> wrote: > ** > > > Listees, > I am looking for input on how to mount blocks on my boom for reefing > lines. I am considering three options. > > 1. Rigidly mount cheek blocks. This is what I've seen most from google > searches but remember talking with a long term blue water cruiser that > recommended: > 2. Simple block on a shackle because the block will take best alignment to > the line, both when it's hauled in or loose. I worry a bit about the block > rattling around when the full sail is up and the reefing line is slack. > Perhaps a canvas cover over the block? > 3. I've also seen blocks on a track for the reefing lines, and I've > actually got a track on the boom now, but it is in use for my outhaul. What > are the pro and cons to this sort of an arrangement? > > I plan on a two line reefing setup, with the clew line going up through > the cringle and then back down to a bowline around the boom. > > Thanks, > Adam > Cal28 > >

I concur with Allen. The track adds extra weight on the boom and it's not necessary. If your main has 1 reef point say about 20%-25% up the luff, put your cheek block about where the mainsail clew ends up when fully outhauled. You need to be able to both outhaul and downhaul on the reef cringle to flatten the reefed main. My Best, Mike Farrell From: Allen Edwards <al… [at] gmail.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2012 4:42 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Blocks for reeding lines I assume you are you talking about blocks on the aft end of the boom. If so, I would vote for some kind of fixed alignment as a block on a shackle will decide that the best alignment is cross wise with everything binding up. The track is really just a cheek block where you can't decide where it should go. I would just put the cheek block as far aft as you can and not bother with the track. I always find that when reefed, it is the aft pulling tension that is hard to get. Hope this helps. Allen On Sat, Mar 31, 2012 at 4:16 PM, Adam Thorp <th… [at] gmail.com> wrote: >Listees, >I am looking for input on how to mount blocks on my boom for reefing lines. I am considering three options. > >1. Rigidly mount cheek blocks. This is what I've seen most from google searches but remember talking with a long term blue water cruiser that recommended: >2. Simple block on a shackle because the block will take best alignment to the line, both when it's hauled in or loose. I worry a bit about the block rattling around when the full sail is up and the reefing line is slack. Perhaps a canvas cover over the block? >3. I've also seen blocks on a track for the reefing lines, and I've actually got a track on the boom now, but it is in use for my outhaul. What are the pro and cons to this sort of an arrangement? > >I plan on a two line reefing setup, with the clew line going up through the cringle and then back down to a bowline around the boom. > >Thanks, >Adam >Cal28

The way I think of this is that all you really need to do is pull the sail back (outhaul). Unless you have a vang on, you are not downhauling the sail so much as holding the boom up. That is to say, if the reef line is too far back, the boom will go down until the angle is correct for the downhaul force the sail needs. On the other hand, if the reef line is too far forward, you can't get the sail back far enough. Slightly different story if you use a vang when reefed but does anyone do that? That said, there may be some second order thing where having the reef anchors too far back causes the outhaul tension to change with vang tension or boom position but it is basically my belief that having them too far back is much better than too far forward and not significantly different from having them in the perfect position, whatever that is. The other point is that when your sail is reefed, it is nice if there is somewhere for the reefed foot to go. Having the cheek block as far back as you can gives the sail some place to go. The attachment of the line to the boom can be done with a loop around the boom, or with a pad-eye. If using a loop around the boom, you either need a slit in the sail foot, or a lose footed sail. The other thing you need if you are using the loop around the boom is an aluminum boom. It doesn't work with a spruce boom unless you don't mind the boom being all crushed by the line. Allen On Sun, Apr 1, 2012 at 9:04 AM, mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > ** > > > I concur with Allen. The track adds extra weight on the boom and > it's not necessary. If your main has 1 reef point say about 20%-25% up the > luff, put your cheek block about where the mainsail clew ends up when fully > outhauled. You need to be able to both outhaul and downhaul on the reef > cringle to flatten the reefed main. > My Best, Mike Farrell > *From:* Allen Edwards <al… [at] gmail.com> > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > *Sent:* Saturday, March 31, 2012 4:42 PM > *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] Blocks for reeding lines > > > > I assume you are you talking about blocks on the aft end of the boom. If > so, I would vote for some kind of fixed alignment as a block on a shackle > will decide that the best alignment is cross wise with everything binding > up. The track is really just a cheek block where you can't decide where > it should go. I would just put the cheek block as far aft as you can and > not bother with the track. I always find that when reefed, it is the aft > pulling tension that is hard to get. > > Hope this helps. > > Allen > > > On Sat, Mar 31, 2012 at 4:16 PM, Adam Thorp <th… [at] gmail.com> wrote: > > ** > > Listees, > I am looking for input on how to mount blocks on my boom for reefing > lines. I am considering three options. > > 1. Rigidly mount cheek blocks. This is what I've seen most from google > searches but remember talking with a long term blue water cruiser that > recommended: > 2. Simple block on a shackle because the block will take best alignment to > the line, both when it's hauled in or loose. I worry a bit about the block > rattling around when the full sail is up and the reefing line is slack. > Perhaps a canvas cover over the block? > 3. I've also seen blocks on a track for the reefing lines, and I've > actually got a track on the boom now, but it is in use for my outhaul. What > are the pro and cons to this sort of an arrangement? > > I plan on a two line reefing setup, with the clew line going up through > the cringle and then back down to a bowline around the boom. > > Thanks, > Adam > Cal28 > > > > > > > >

Allen, I use flat, 3/4" wide nylon or dacron strapping for my sail to boom loops, reefing loops and gasket loops. It's stuff from my solar business. I don't think it's going to mar or ding a wood boom...too wide. I'm guessing a reeding line is similar to a reefing line, only one will work on my b flat clarinet while the other won't? Jerry From: Allen Edwards <al… [at] gmail.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 1, 2012 9:26 AM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Blocks for reeding lines The way I think of this is that all you really need to do is pull the sail back (outhaul). Unless you have a vang on, you are not downhauling the sail so much as holding the boom up. That is to say, if the reef line is too far back, the boom will go down until the angle is correct for the downhaul force the sail needs. On the other hand, if the reef line is too far forward, you can't get the sail back far enough. Slightly different story if you use a vang when reefed but does anyone do that? That said, there may be some second order thing where having the reef anchors too far back causes the outhaul tension to change with vang tension or boom position but it is basically my belief that having them too far back is much better than too far forward and not significantly different from having them in the perfect position, whatever that is. The other point is that when your sail is reefed, it is nice if there is somewhere for the reefed foot to go. Having the cheek block as far back as you can gives the sail some place to go. The attachment of the line to the boom can be done with a loop around the boom, or with a pad-eye. If using a loop around the boom, you either need a slit in the sail foot, or a lose footed sail. The other thing you need if you are using the loop around the boom is an aluminum boom. It doesn't work with a spruce boom unless you don't mind the boom being all crushed by the line. Allen On Sun, Apr 1, 2012 at 9:04 AM, mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > > I concur with Allen. The track adds extra weight on the boom and it's not necessary. If your main has 1 reef point say about 20%-25% up the luff, put your cheek block about where the mainsail clew ends up when fully outhauled. You need to be able to both outhaul and downhaul on the reef cringle to flatten the reefed main. > My Best, Mike Farrell > >From: Allen Edwards <al… [at] gmail.com> >To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com >Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2012 4:42 PM >Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Blocks for reeding lines > > > > > >I assume you are you talking about blocks on the aft end of the boom. If so, I would vote for some kind of fixed alignment as a block on a shackle will decide that the best alignment is cross wise with everything binding up. The track is really just a cheek block where you can't decide where it should go. I would just put the cheek block as far aft as you can and not bother with the track. I always find that when reefed, it is the aft pulling tension that is hard to get. > > >Hope this helps. > > >Allen > > > >On Sat, Mar 31, 2012 at 4:16 PM, Adam Thorp <th… [at] gmail.com> wrote: > > >> >>Listees, >>I am looking for input on how to mount blocks on my boom for reefing lines. I am considering three options. >> >>1. Rigidly mount cheek blocks. This is what I've seen most from google searches but remember talking with a long term blue water cruiser that recommended: >>2. Simple block on a shackle because the block will take best alignment to the line, both when it's hauled in or loose. I worry a bit about the block rattling around when the full sail is up and the reefing line is slack. Perhaps a canvas cover over the block? >>3. I've also seen blocks on a track for the reefing lines, and I've actually got a track on the boom now, but it is in use for my outhaul. What are the pro and cons to this sort of an arrangement? >> >>I plan on a two line reefing setup, with the clew line going up through the cringle and then back down to a bowline around the boom. >> >>Thanks, >>Adam >>Cal28 > > > > > >

Jerry, I once heard the clarinet referred to as “an ill woodwind that nobody blows good”. Would an A sharp clarinet get better publicity? In the Chesapeake, our CAL 25s mostly have just one reef, and not too deep at that (at least the CAL 25 racers). Not even any eyes for reef tie-offs. I was thinking that with the eyes in the main, could one have the straps somehow attached to the boom rather than flapping around on the sail itself when not reefed. Either that, or just store the straps, and tie them on when needed. I am watching my spelling carefully. Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gerald Sobel Sent: Monday, April 02, 2012 7:11 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Blocks for reeding lines Allen, I use flat, 3/4" wide nylon or dacron strapping for my sail to boom loops, reefing loops and gasket loops. It's stuff from my solar business. I don't think it's going to mar or ding a wood boom...too wide. I'm guessing a reeding line is similar to a reefing line, only one will work on my b flat clarinet while the other won't? Jerry From: Allen Edwards <al… [at] gmail.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 1, 2012 9:26 AM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Blocks for reeding lines The way I think of this is that all you really need to do is pull the sail back (outhaul). Unless you have a vang on, you are not downhauling the sail so much as holding the boom up. That is to say, if the reef line is too far back, the boom will go down until the angle is correct for the downhaul force the sail needs. On the other hand, if the reef line is too far forward, you can't get the sail back far enough. Slightly different story if you use a vang when reefed but does anyone do that? That said, there may be some second order thing where having the reef anchors too far back causes the outhaul tension to change with vang tension or boom position but it is basically my belief that having them too far back is much better than too far forward and not significantly different from having them in the perfect position, whatever that is. The other point is that when your sail is reefed, it is nice if there is somewhere for the reefed foot to go. Having the cheek block as far back as you can gives the sail some place to go. The attachment of the line to the boom can be done with a loop around the boom, or with a pad-eye. If using a loop around the boom, you either need a slit in the sail foot, or a lose footed sail. The other thing you need if you are using the loop around the boom is an aluminum boom. It doesn't work with a spruce boom unless you don't mind the boom being all crushed by the line. Allen On Sun, Apr 1, 2012 at 9:04 AM, mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com<mailto:ve… [at] yahoo.com>> wrote: I concur with Allen. The track adds extra weight on the boom and it's not necessary. If your main has 1 reef point say about 20%-25% up the luff, put your cheek block about where the mainsail clew ends up when fully outhauled. You need to be able to both outhaul and downhaul on the reef cringle to flatten the reefed main. My Best, Mike Farrell From: Allen Edwards <al… [at] gmail.com<mailto:al… [at] gmail.com>> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2012 4:42 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Blocks for reeding lines I assume you are you talking about blocks on the aft end of the boom. If so, I would vote for some kind of fixed alignment as a block on a shackle will decide that the best alignment is cross wise with everything binding up. The track is really just a cheek block where you can't decide where it should go. I would just put the cheek block as far aft as you can and not bother with the track. I always find that when reefed, it is the aft pulling tension that is hard to get. Hope this helps. Allen On Sat, Mar 31, 2012 at 4:16 PM, Adam Thorp <th… [at] gmail.com<mailto:th… [at] gmail.com>> wrote: Listees, I am looking for input on how to mount blocks on my boom for reefing lines. I am considering three options. 1. Rigidly mount cheek blocks. This is what I've seen most from google searches but remember talking with a long term blue water cruiser that recommended: 2. Simple block on a shackle because the block will take best alignment to the line, both when it's hauled in or loose. I worry a bit about the block rattling around when the full sail is up and the reefing line is slack. Perhaps a canvas cover over the block? 3. I've also seen blocks on a track for the reefing lines, and I've actually got a track on the boom now, but it is in use for my outhaul. What are the pro and cons to this sort of an arrangement? I plan on a two line reefing setup, with the clew line going up through the cringle and then back down to a bowline around the boom. Thanks, Adam Cal28

If you use something to tie in the sail to keep it on the boom use strong yarn that will break. If you forget to untie it, it will tear the mainsail cloth. Many people don't instal those fittings in the sail for that reason. If use heavier line make it a bright contrasting color that will call attention to itself. My Best, Mike Farrell From: "Husar, Charlie [USA] (ASE)" <hu… [at] bah.com> To: "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, April 2, 2012 7:19 PM Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] Blocks for reeding lines Jerry, I once heard the clarinet referred to as “an ill woodwind that nobody blows good”. Would an A sharp clarinet get better publicity? In the Chesapeake, our CAL 25s mostly have just one reef, and not too deep at that (at least the CAL 25 racers). Not even any eyes for reef tie-offs. I was thinking that with the eyes in the main, could one have the straps somehow attached to the boom rather than flapping around on the sail itself when not reefed. Either that, or just store the straps, and tie them on when needed. I am watching my spelling carefully. Cheers Charlie From:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gerald Sobel Sent: Monday, April 02, 2012 7:11 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Blocks for reeding lines Allen, I use flat, 3/4" wide nylon or dacron strapping for my sail to boom loops, reefing loops and gasket loops. It's stuff from my solar business. I don't think it's going to mar or ding a wood boom...too wide. I'm guessing a reeding line is similar to a reefing line, only one will work on my b flat clarinet while the other won't? Jerry From:Allen Edwards <al… [at] gmail.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 1, 2012 9:26 AM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Blocks for reeding lines The way I think of this is that all you really need to do is pull the sail back (outhaul). Unless you have a vang on, you are not downhauling the sail so much as holding the boom up. That is to say, if the reef line is too far back, the boom will go down until the angle is correct for the downhaul force the sail needs. On the other hand, if the reef line is too far forward, you can't get the sail back far enough. Slightly different story if you use a vang when reefed but does anyone do that? That said, there may be some second order thing where having the reef anchors too far back causes the outhaul tension to change with vang tension or boom position but it is basically my belief that having them too far back is much better than too far forward and not significantly different from having them in the perfect position, whatever that is. The other point is that when your sail is reefed, it is nice if there is somewhere for the reefed foot to go. Having the cheek block as far back as you can gives the sail some place to go. The attachment of the line to the boom can be done with a loop around the boom, or with a pad-eye. If using a loop around the boom, you either need a slit in the sail foot, or a lose footed sail. The other thing you need if you are using the loop around the boom is an aluminum boom. It doesn't work with a spruce boom unless you don't mind the boom being all crushed by the line. Allen On Sun, Apr 1, 2012 at 9:04 AM, mike farrell <ve… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: I concur with Allen. The track adds extra weight on the boom and it's not necessary. If your main has 1 reef point say about 20%-25% up the luff, put your cheek block about where the mainsail clew ends up when fully outhauled. You need to be able to both outhaul and downhaul on the reef cringle to flatten the reefed main. My Best, Mike Farrell From:Allen Edwards <al… [at] gmail.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2012 4:42 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Blocks for reeding lines I assume you are you talking about blocks on the aft end of the boom. If so, I would vote for some kind of fixed alignment as a block on a shackle will decide that the best alignment is cross wise with everything binding up. The track is really just a cheek block where you can't decide where it should go. I would just put the cheek block as far aft as you can and not bother with the track. I always find that when reefed, it is the aft pulling tension that is hard to get. Hope this helps. Allen On Sat, Mar 31, 2012 at 4:16 PM, Adam Thorp <th… [at] gmail.com> wrote: Listees, I am looking for input on how to mount blocks on my boom for reefing lines. I am considering three options. 1. Rigidly mount cheek blocks. This is what I've seen most from google searches but remember talking with a long term blue water cruiser that recommended: 2. Simple block on a shackle because the block will take best alignment to the line, both when it's hauled in or loose. I worry a bit about the block rattling around when the full sail is up and the reefing line is slack. Perhaps a canvas cover over the block? 3. I've also seen blocks on a track for the reefing lines, and I've actually got a track on the boom now, but it is in use for my outhaul. What are the pro and cons to this sort of an arrangement? I plan on a two line reefing setup, with the clew line going up through the cringle and then back down to a bowline around the boom. Thanks, Adam Cal28

On 4/3/2012 6:04 AM, mike farrell wrote: > If you use something to tie in the sail to keep it on the boom > use strong yarn that will break. If you forget to untie it, it will > tear the mainsail cloth. Many people don't instal those fittings in > the sail for that reason. This is also why it's traditional to tie in the reef under the foot of the sail but not around the boom. You can do that if the foot is on a track but not, as in the case of my Cal 20's main, if the foot has a boltrope in a groove. The current mainsail has only one set of reef points but it's a fairly deep reef,so there's lots of extra sailcloth flopping around. I do like to tie up the foot just to keep that stuff from blowing around and blocking my vision. The important point is that the ties are not there to form the reef, but just to gather the extra sailcloth. The reef is formed by the tack hook and the out-and-down hauling effect of the clew line. Chris Campbell