wood for engine support beam

recommendations for best wood for engine support beam? So far, suggestions have included white oak, trex, any pressure treated wood. Reggie

Pressure treated wood is not recommended, as the chemicals used will not allow bonding of epoxy. Any hardwood is fine, oak, ash, mahogany, birch, etc. Be sure to seal 360* around the wood with epoxy so it cannot absorb water, oil, etc. You can email me directly here- Je… [at] mindspring.com *Joe DeMers - owner* Sound Marine Diesel LLC SoundMarineDiesel.com <http://www.soundmarinediesel.com/> *phone & fax (860) 666-2184* On 4/17/2012 6:24 AM, r good wrote: > > > recommendations for best wood for engine support beam? So far, > suggestions have included white oak, trex, any pressure treated wood. > Reggie > > > -- *Joe DeMers - owner* Sound Marine Diesel LLC SoundMarineDiesel.com <http://www.soundmarinediesel.com/> *phone & fax (860) 666-2184*

On 4/17/2012 7:59 AM, Joe DeMers wrote: > > Pressure treated wood is not recommended, as the chemicals used will > not allow bonding of epoxy. > > Any hardwood is fine, oak, ash, mahogany, birch, etc. Be sure to seal > 360* around the wood with epoxy so it cannot absorb water, oil, etc. > One problem with 360º epoxy sealing is that you have to seal it 100%. If you let a little bit of moisture in, it just cooks away happily until you have an epoxy shell with rotted mush inside. My little dinghy had several places where they sealed wood inside then drilled penetrations for fasteners. Not good. It's especially not good if you use something like birch, with low rot resistance. I'd be inclined toward oak or ash, and would not seal it up with epoxy. Glue it down with epoxy, but don't try to coat it entirely. Our better boatbuilding woods are actually quite durable. The advantage of the epoxy building technique championed by the Gougeon Brothers (and others) is that wood's structural qualities are quite predictable at constant moisture content (if you know the moisture content, you know the structural characteristics of the species). That allowed for light scantlings and very light boats--they could engineer the wood structure to use the least material needed to function in its various components. An engine bed doesn't need to be super-light and frankly, that's the last place I'd be looking to save weight. You want brute strength. You want the engine fixed in the boat. Chris Campbell

For rot resistance you should consider Black Locust. The Trunnels of the old wooden ships were made of Black Locust. Also fence posts. It is very strong. Ash is not decay resistant, if oak is used it should be White Oak not Red oak as the Red is very porous. Attached are 2 pages from Wood Handbook Bert Pesak On Tue, Apr 17, 2012 at 9:42 AM, Chris Campbell <cc… [at] lsnm.org> wrote: > ** > > > ** On 4/17/2012 7:59 AM, Joe DeMers wrote: > > > > Pressure treated wood is not recommended, as the chemicals used will not > allow bonding of epoxy. > > Any hardwood is fine, oak, ash, mahogany, birch, etc. Be sure to seal 360* > around the wood with epoxy so it cannot absorb water, oil, etc. > > > One problem with 360º epoxy sealing is that you have to seal it 100%. If > you let a little bit of moisture in, it just cooks away happily until you > have an epoxy shell with rotted mush inside. My little dinghy had several > places where they sealed wood inside then drilled penetrations for > fasteners. Not good. It's especially not good if you use something like > birch, with low rot resistance. > > I'd be inclined toward oak or ash, and would not seal it up with epoxy. > Glue it down with epoxy, but don't try to coat it entirely. Our better > boatbuilding woods are actually quite durable. The advantage of the epoxy > building technique championed by the Gougeon Brothers (and others) is that > wood's structural qualities are quite predictable at constant moisture > content (if you know the moisture content, you know the structural > characteristics of the species). That allowed for light scantlings and > very light boats--they could engineer the wood structure to use the least > material needed to function in its various components. An engine bed > doesn't need to be super-light and frankly, that's the last place I'd be > looking to save weight. You want brute strength. You want the engine > fixed in the boat. > > Chris Campbell > > >

Clicked on the wrong file , should have been this one. Bert Pesak On Tue, Apr 17, 2012 at 9:42 AM, Chris Campbell <cc… [at] lsnm.org> wrote: > ** > > > ** On 4/17/2012 7:59 AM, Joe DeMers wrote: > > > > Pressure treated wood is not recommended, as the chemicals used will not > allow bonding of epoxy. > > Any hardwood is fine, oak, ash, mahogany, birch, etc. Be sure to seal 360* > around the wood with epoxy so it cannot absorb water, oil, etc. > > > One problem with 360º epoxy sealing is that you have to seal it 100%. If > you let a little bit of moisture in, it just cooks away happily until you > have an epoxy shell with rotted mush inside. My little dinghy had several > places where they sealed wood inside then drilled penetrations for > fasteners. Not good. It's especially not good if you use something like > birch, with low rot resistance. > > I'd be inclined toward oak or ash, and would not seal it up with epoxy. > Glue it down with epoxy, but don't try to coat it entirely. Our better > boatbuilding woods are actually quite durable. The advantage of the epoxy > building technique championed by the Gougeon Brothers (and others) is that > wood's structural qualities are quite predictable at constant moisture > content (if you know the moisture content, you know the structural > characteristics of the species). That allowed for light scantlings and > very light boats--they could engineer the wood structure to use the least > material needed to function in its various components. An engine bed > doesn't need to be super-light and frankly, that's the last place I'd be > looking to save weight. You want brute strength. You want the engine > fixed in the boat. > > Chris Campbell > > >

I used and have complete confidence in IPE "iron wood" for our stringers in CalGal and Freewind. *´¨) ¸.· ´¸.·*´¨) ¸.·**¨) (¸.·´ (¸.·' ( ..........-_/) [cid:image005.png@01CBF93B.85770E70] Timm Lessley

White Oak or Purple Heart. Others may be fine as well. Don't use Red Oak. Allen On Tue, Apr 17, 2012 at 7:08 AM, <ti… [at] ch2m.com> wrote: > ** > > > I used and have complete confidence in IPE “iron wood” for our stringers > in CalGal and Freewind.**** > > ** ** > > ** ** > > *´¨) > ¸.· ´¸.·*´¨) ¸.·**¨) > (¸.·´ (¸.·' ( ......….-*_/)** * **** > > *[image: cid:image005.png@01CBF93B.85770E70]* > > *Timm Lessley* > > ** ** > > >

TYPE OF WOOD BENDING STRENGTH PARALLEL PERPENDICULAR SHEAR E-MODUL HARDNESS LBS. DENSITY LBS/CUBIC Ft. Balsam fir (Ables balsamae) 3210 3060 800 320 2.30E+06 1640 72 Balsam fir (Ables balsamae) 825 700 170 60 1.10E+06 400 22 Basralocus (Dicorynla gulanensis) 2400 1700 580 300 1.8E+06 1520 59 Bllinga (Nauclea Diderrichll) 2400 2100 700 290 1.8E+06 1520 59 Bongossl (Lophira alata) 3750 3550 2000 425 2.49E+06 3000 76 Brazillan mahogany (Swietena macrophylla) 1660 1285 360 240 1.3E+06 750 33 California redwood (sequola sempervirens 1200 1200 425 80 1.30E+06 420 24 Daniza excelsa 800 3900 2000 430 2.35E+06 2250 70 Douglas Fir (Pseudotsuga menziesil) 4100 950 335 90 1.3E+06 510 33 Engelmann spruce (Picea englmannii) 4100 600 195 70 1.2E+06 390 28 Greenheart (Ocotea rodiael) 2390 2600 780 450 2.49E+06 1880 78 *Ipe (Tabebula spp.- Lapacho) 4100 3600 780 440 3.01E+06 3060 78 Jatoba (Hymenaea courbarll) 2390 1700 670 320 1.8E+06 2100 68 Jarrah (Eucalptus marginata) 1800 1500 520 220 1.5E+06 1280 63 Karri (Eucalyptus diveralcolor) 2050 1560 600 230 2.00E+06 1360 65 Kerulng (Dipterocarpus grandifloris) 1600 1300 400 220 1.80E+06 920 47 Ponderosa pine (pinus ponderosa) 850 700 250 70 1.10E+06 460 26 Purpleheart (Peltogyne spp.) 3030 2730 948 430 2.03E+06 2060 69 Sourthern pine (Pinus palustris) 1050 900 345 75 1.40E+06 870 33 Western red cedar (Thuja pilcata) 875 875 295 75 1.00E+06 350 22 Tatajuba (Bagassa gulanensis) 2650 2300 600 355 2.30E+06 1670 59 And it is FIREPROOF. *´¨) ¸.· ´¸.·*´¨) ¸.·**¨) (¸.·´ (¸.·' ( ..........-_/) [cid:image005.png@01CBF93B.85770E70] Timm Lessley

the attachments come through but are not readable. where can original be found? Reggie To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: bj… [at] gmail.com Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 10:05:56 -0400 Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] wood for engine support beam [2 Attachments] [Attachment(s) from Bert Pesak included below] For rot resistance you should consider Black Locust. The Trunnels of the old wooden ships were made of Black Locust. Also fence posts. It is very strong. Ash is not decay resistant, if oak is used it should be White Oak not Red oak as the Red is very porous. Attached are 2 pages from Wood Handbook Bert Pesak On Tue, Apr 17, 2012 at 9:42 AM, Chris Campbell <cc… [at] lsnm.org> wrote: On 4/17/2012 7:59 AM, Joe DeMers wrote: Pressure treated wood is not recommended, as the chemicals used will not allow bonding of epoxy. Any hardwood is fine, oak, ash, mahogany, birch, etc. Be sure to seal 360* around the wood with epoxy so it cannot absorb water, oil, etc. One problem with 360º epoxy sealing is that you have to seal it 100%. If you let a little bit of moisture in, it just cooks away happily until you have an epoxy shell with rotted mush inside. My little dinghy had several places where they sealed wood inside then drilled penetrations for fasteners. Not good. It's especially not good if you use something like birch, with low rot resistance. I'd be inclined toward oak or ash, and would not seal it up with epoxy. Glue it down with epoxy, but don't try to coat it entirely. Our better boatbuilding woods are actually quite durable. The advantage of the epoxy building technique championed by the Gougeon Brothers (and others) is that wood's structural qualities are quite predictable at constant moisture content (if you know the moisture content, you know the structural characteristics of the species). That allowed for light scantlings and very light boats--they could engineer the wood structure to use the least material needed to function in its various components. An engine bed doesn't need to be super-light and frankly, that's the last place I'd be looking to save weight. You want brute strength. You want the engine fixed in the boat. Chris Campbell

On 4/17/2012 10:08 AM, ti… [at] ch2m.com wrote: > > I used and have complete confidence in IPE "iron wood" for our > stringers in CalGal and Freewind. > What kind of adhesive did you use? Do the oils in ipe affect epoxy adhesion? Chris Campbell > >

On 4/17/2012 10:16 AM, Allen Edwards wrote: > > White Oak or Purple Heart. Others may be fine as well. Don't use Red > Oak. > I'm just going to add that the common wisdom--what we all know--is that white oak is superior to red in rot resistance because of their different pore structures. But I've read quite a few accounts of both modern and historic shipbuilding where red oak was used successfully. In the case of engine beds in a modern fiberglass yacht, rot is not likely to be the prime concern. The wood is likely to be in a relatively dry, sheltered environment. The primary concern will be strength. Of course, if you've got a really messy engine compartment with a lot of leaking hoses or water pumps flinging water via leaky seals, maybe there is concern. On my other boat, I used some oak that's probably red oak to secure a fiberglass battery box that I moved into the keel sump area. It doesn't get wet and so the wood (unfinished) looks new after probably 20 seasons. It's exposed and if there were deterioration, it would be visible. Engine stringers may or may not fall into that category, depending on the configuration of the engine installation. Chris Campbell > >

I bolted it down, on top of the fiberglass stringer, and through bolted it with the engine isolation mounts... So no glue - 100% mechanical connection - I did not trust chemical adhesive(s) for this purpose. *´¨) ¸.· ´¸.·*´¨) ¸.·**¨) (¸.·´ (¸.·' ( ..........-_/) [cid:image005.png@01CBF93B.85770E70] Timm Lessley From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Chris Campbell Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 10:33 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] wood for engine support beam On 4/17/2012 10:08 AM, ti… [at] ch2m.com<mailto:ti… [at] ch2m.com> wrote: I used and have complete confidence in IPE "iron wood" for our stringers in CalGal and Freewind. What kind of adhesive did you use? Do the oils in ipe affect epoxy adhesion? Chris Campbell

On mine, they had to chop down into the stringer. I was concerned that it might affect the hull structurally. Kind of sure that stringer has a grander purpose than holding up the engine. Thanks Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ti… [at] ch2m.com Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 3:44 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] wood for engine support beam I bolted it down, on top of the fiberglass stringer, and through bolted it with the engine isolation mounts... So no glue - 100% mechanical connection - I did not trust chemical adhesive(s) for this purpose. *´¨) ¸.· ´¸.·*´¨) ¸.·**¨) (¸.·´ (¸.·' ( ..........-_/) [Description: cid:image005.png@01CBF93B.85770E70] Timm Lessley From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Chris Campbell Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 10:33 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] wood for engine support beam On 4/17/2012 10:08 AM, ti… [at] ch2m.com<mailto:ti… [at] ch2m.com> wrote: I used and have complete confidence in IPE "iron wood" for our stringers in CalGal and Freewind. What kind of adhesive did you use? Do the oils in ipe affect epoxy adhesion? Chris Campbell

Maybe the engine was chosen poorly if installing it requires rebuilding the engine bed...??? [cid:image001.png@01CD1CA6.08CCA2B0] *´¨) ¸.· ´¸.·*´¨) ¸.·**¨) (¸.·´ (¸.·' ( ..........-_/) [cid:image005.png@01CBF93B.85770E70] Timm Lessley From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Husar, Charlie [USA] (ASE) Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 2:22 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] wood for engine support beam On mine, they had to chop down into the stringer. I was concerned that it might affect the hull structurally. Kind of sure that stringer has a grander purpose than holding up the engine. Thanks Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ti… [at] ch2m.com Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 3:44 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] wood for engine support beam I bolted it down, on top of the fiberglass stringer, and through bolted it with the engine isolation mounts... So no glue - 100% mechanical connection - I did not trust chemical adhesive(s) for this purpose. *´¨) ¸.· ´¸.·*´¨) ¸.·**¨) (¸.·´ (¸.·' ( ..........-_/) [Description: cid:image005.png@01CBF93B.85770E70] Timm Lessley From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Chris Campbell Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 10:33 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] wood for engine support beam On 4/17/2012 10:08 AM, ti… [at] ch2m.com<mailto:ti… [at] ch2m.com> wrote: I used and have complete confidence in IPE "iron wood" for our stringers in CalGal and Freewind. What kind of adhesive did you use? Do the oils in ipe affect epoxy adhesion? Chris Campbell

Timm, is that the one we were crawling in the back of in 2005 when you were attempting and alternator mount fix? Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ti… [at] ch2m.com Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:26 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] wood for engine support beam Maybe the engine was chosen poorly if installing it requires rebuilding the engine bed...??? [Description: cid:image001.png@01CD1CA6.08CCA2B0] *´¨) ¸.· ´¸.·*´¨) ¸.·**¨) (¸.·´ (¸.·' ( ..........-_/) [Description: cid:image005.png@01CBF93B.85770E70] Timm Lessley From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Husar, Charlie [USA] (ASE) Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 2:22 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] wood for engine support beam On mine, they had to chop down into the stringer. I was concerned that it might affect the hull structurally. Kind of sure that stringer has a grander purpose than holding up the engine. Thanks Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ti… [at] ch2m.com Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 3:44 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] wood for engine support beam I bolted it down, on top of the fiberglass stringer, and through bolted it with the engine isolation mounts... So no glue - 100% mechanical connection - I did not trust chemical adhesive(s) for this purpose. *´¨) ¸.· ´¸.·*´¨) ¸.·**¨) (¸.·´ (¸.·' ( ..........-_/) [Description: Description: cid:image005.png@01CBF93B.85770E70] Timm Lessley From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Chris Campbell Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 10:33 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] wood for engine support beam On 4/17/2012 10:08 AM, ti… [at] ch2m.com<mailto:ti… [at] ch2m.com> wrote: I used and have complete confidence in IPE "iron wood" for our stringers in CalGal and Freewind. What kind of adhesive did you use? Do the oils in ipe affect epoxy adhesion? Chris Campbell

Exactly the same.... I still have nightmares about the end tap breaking off, inside the head. Thanks for your help!!! BTW - Charlie owns one of the holes screwed into my head... He bought the tap as I recall... *´¨) ¸.· ´¸.·*´¨) ¸.·**¨) (¸.·´ (¸.·' ( ..........-_/) [cid:image005.png@01CBF93B.85770E70] Timm Lessley From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Husar, Charlie [USA] (ASE) Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 2:41 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] wood for engine support beam Timm, is that the one we were crawling in the back of in 2005 when you were attempting and alternator mount fix? Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ti… [at] ch2m.com Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:26 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] wood for engine support beam Maybe the engine was chosen poorly if installing it requires rebuilding the engine bed...??? [Description: cid:image001.png@01CD1CA6.08CCA2B0] *´¨) ¸.· ´¸.·*´¨) ¸.·**¨) (¸.·´ (¸.·' ( ..........-_/) [Description: cid:image005.png@01CBF93B.85770E70] Timm Lessley From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Husar, Charlie [USA] (ASE) Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 2:22 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] wood for engine support beam On mine, they had to chop down into the stringer. I was concerned that it might affect the hull structurally. Kind of sure that stringer has a grander purpose than holding up the engine. Thanks Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ti… [at] ch2m.com Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 3:44 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] wood for engine support beam I bolted it down, on top of the fiberglass stringer, and through bolted it with the engine isolation mounts... So no glue - 100% mechanical connection - I did not trust chemical adhesive(s) for this purpose. *´¨) ¸.· ´¸.·*´¨) ¸.·**¨) (¸.·´ (¸.·' ( ..........-_/) [Description: Description: cid:image005.png@01CBF93B.85770E70] Timm Lessley From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Chris Campbell Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 10:33 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] wood for engine support beam On 4/17/2012 10:08 AM, ti… [at] ch2m.com<mailto:ti… [at] ch2m.com> wrote: I used and have complete confidence in IPE "iron wood" for our stringers in CalGal and Freewind. What kind of adhesive did you use? Do the oils in ipe affect epoxy adhesion? Chris Campbell

Hi Timm - What is the cruising speed of your boat? Can she get up to hull speed under power? *Joe DeMers - owner* Sound Marine Diesel LLC SoundMarineDiesel.com <http://www.soundmarinediesel.com/> *phone & fax (860) 666-2184* On 4/17/2012 4:26 PM, ti… [at] ch2m.com wrote: > > > Maybe the engine was chosen poorly if installing it requires > rebuilding the engine bed...??? > > *´¨) > ¸.· ´¸.·*´¨) ¸.·**¨) > (¸.·´ (¸.·' ( ..........-*/_/)/*** > > *cid:image005.png@01CBF93B.85770E70* > > *Timm Lessley* > > *From:*Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] > *On Behalf Of *Husar, Charlie [USA] (ASE) > *Sent:* Tuesday, April 17, 2012 2:22 PM > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > *Subject:* RE: [Cal_Boats] wood for engine support beam > > On mine, they had to chop down into the stringer. I was concerned > that it might affect the hull structurally. Kind of sure that > stringer has a grander purpose than holding up the engine. > > Thanks > > Charlie > > *From:*Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] > *On Behalf Of *ti… [at] ch2m.com > *Sent:* Tuesday, April 17, 2012 3:44 PM > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > *Subject:* RE: [Cal_Boats] wood for engine support beam > > > > > > I bolted it down, on top of the fiberglass stringer, and through > bolted it with the engine isolation mounts... > > So no glue -- 100% mechanical connection -- I did not trust chemical > adhesive(s) for this purpose. > > *´¨) > ¸.· ´¸.·*´¨) ¸.·**¨) > (¸.·´ (¸.·' ( ..........-*/_/)/* > > *Description: cid:image005.png@01CBF93B.85770E70* > > *Timm Lessley* > > *From:*Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] > *On Behalf Of *Chris Campbell > *Sent:* Tuesday, April 17, 2012 10:33 AM > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] wood for engine support beam > > On 4/17/2012 10:08 AM, ti… [at] ch2m.com > <mailto:ti… [at] ch2m.com> wrote: > > I used and have complete confidence in IPE "iron wood" for our > stringers in CalGal and Freewind. > > > What kind of adhesive did you use? Do the oils in ipe affect epoxy > adhesion? > > Chris Campbell > > > > > > > > -- *Joe DeMers - owner* Sound Marine Diesel LLC SoundMarineDiesel.com <http://www.soundmarinediesel.com/> *phone & fax (860) 666-2184*

The Book is " Wood Handbook (Wood as an Engineering Material) Algrove Publishing. Ottawa, Ontario Canada The Info in the book is from U.S. Dept of agriculture Forest Service, Forest Products Laboratory 1999. Try opening the files as a picture in Paint. Gmail has the ability to open file like this and be able to magnify them. Bert Pesak On Tue, Apr 17, 2012 at 11:22 AM, r good <my… [at] hotmail.com> wrote: > ** > > > the attachments come through but are not readable. where can original be > found? > Reggie > > ------------------------------ > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > From: bj… [at] gmail.com > Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 10:05:56 -0400 > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] wood for engine support beam [2 Attachments] > > > [Attachment(s)<http://bl144w.blu144.mail.live.com/mail/RteFrame_16.2.5069.0406.html?dl=dl#TopText>from Bert Pesak included below]For rot resistance you should consider Black Locust. The Trunnels of the > old wooden ships were made of Black Locust. Also fence posts. It is very > strong. Ash is not decay resistant, if oak is used it should be White Oak > not Red oak as the Red is very porous. > > Attached are 2 pages from Wood Handbook > > > Bert Pesak > > On Tue, Apr 17, 2012 at 9:42 AM, Chris Campbell <cc… [at] lsnm.org>wrote: > > ** > > > **On 4/17/2012 7:59 AM, Joe DeMers wrote: > > > Pressure treated wood is not recommended, as the chemicals used will not > allow bonding of epoxy. > > Any hardwood is fine, oak, ash, mahogany, birch, etc. Be sure to seal 360* > around the wood with epoxy so it cannot absorb water, oil, etc. > > > One problem with 360º epoxy sealing is that you have to seal it 100%. If > you let a little bit of moisture in, it just cooks away happily until you > have an epoxy shell with rotted mush inside. My little dinghy had several > places where they sealed wood inside then drilled penetrations for > fasteners. Not good. It's especially not good if you use something like > birch, with low rot resistance. > > I'd be inclined toward oak or ash, and would not seal it up with epoxy. > Glue it down with epoxy, but don't try to coat it entirely. Our better > boatbuilding woods are actually quite durable. The advantage of the epoxy > building technique championed by the Gougeon Brothers (and others) is that > wood's structural qualities are quite predictable at constant moisture > content (if you know the moisture content, you know the structural > characteristics of the species). That allowed for light scantlings and > very light boats--they could engineer the wood structure to use the least > material needed to function in its various components. An engine bed > doesn't need to be super-light and frankly, that's the last place I'd be > looking to save weight. You want brute strength. You want the engine > fixed in the boat. > > Chris Campbell > > > > > >

The top speed in flat water @ 3,000 rpms with my MaxProp and SeaSlide racing bottom, hovers around 8+ knots, a temp push to 3200 I can get a little more, 8.73 in this movie photo clip motoring against the current at Cape Disappointment. Typically I cruise @ 1600-1800rpm @ 6 knots, where fuel economy is great. [cid:image003.png@01CD1D31.41FA0600] *´¨) ¸.· ´¸.·*´¨) ¸.·**¨) (¸.·´ (¸.·' ( ..........-_/) [cid:image005.png@01CBF93B.85770E70] Timm Lessley From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Joe DeMers Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 5:59 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] wood for engine support beam Hi Timm - What is the cruising speed of your boat? Can she get up to hull speed under power? Joe DeMers - owner Sound Marine Diesel LLC SoundMarineDiesel.com<http://www.soundmarinediesel.com/> phone & fax (860) 666-2184 On 4/17/2012 4:26 PM, ti… [at] ch2m.com<mailto:ti… [at] ch2m.com> wrote: Maybe the engine was chosen poorly if installing it requires rebuilding the engine bed...??? [cid:image002.png@01CD1D30.1FF6B4F0] *´¨) ¸.· ´¸.·*´¨) ¸.·**¨) (¸.·´ (¸.·' ( ..........-_/) [cid:image005.png@01CBF93B.85770E70] Timm Lessley From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Husar, Charlie [USA] (ASE) Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 2:22 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] wood for engine support beam On mine, they had to chop down into the stringer. I was concerned that it might affect the hull structurally. Kind of sure that stringer has a grander purpose than holding up the engine. Thanks Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ti… [at] ch2m.com<mailto:ti… [at] ch2m.com> Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 3:44 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] wood for engine support beam I bolted it down, on top of the fiberglass stringer, and through bolted it with the engine isolation mounts... So no glue - 100% mechanical connection - I did not trust chemical adhesive(s) for this purpose. *´¨) ¸.· ´¸.·*´¨) ¸.·**¨) (¸.·´ (¸.·' ( ..........-_/) [Description: cid:image005.png@01CBF93B.85770E70] Timm Lessley From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Chris Campbell Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 10:33 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] wood for engine support beam On 4/17/2012 10:08 AM, ti… [at] ch2m.com<mailto:ti… [at] ch2m.com> wrote: I used and have complete confidence in IPE "iron wood" for our stringers in CalGal and Freewind. What kind of adhesive did you use? Do the oils in ipe affect epoxy adhesion? Chris Campbell -- Joe DeMers - owner Sound Marine Diesel LLC SoundMarineDiesel.com<http://www.soundmarinediesel.com/> phone & fax (860) 666-2184