*rusting* C954 aluminum bronze chainplates

Hey, Here are some pictures of the chainplates that have been rusting up on me. I used C954 aluminum bronze bought from onlinemetals.com to machine these. Any advice on how to proceed? Sand off the rust, varnish, and let it go for a while? Thanks, Adam

On 7/23/2012 10:14 AM, Adam Thorp wrote: > [Attachment(s) <#TopText> from Adam Thorp included below] > > Hey, > > Here are some pictures of the chainplates that have been rusting up on > me. I used C954 aluminum bronze bought from onlinemetals.com > <http://onlinemetals.com> to machine these. > > Any advice on how to proceed? Sand off the rust, varnish, and let it > go for a while? Have you tried Naval Jelly or some other oxalic acid treatment? Chris Campbell > >

I have not tried anything. I will start with Naval Jelly. After the rust is removed, what would you coat it with to protect it? On Mon, Jul 23, 2012 at 8:28 AM, Chris Campbell <cc… [at] lsnm.org> wrote: > ** > > > ** On 7/23/2012 10:14 AM, Adam Thorp wrote: > > Hey, > > Here are some pictures of the chainplates that have been rusting up on > me. I used C954 aluminum bronze bought from onlinemetals.com to machine > these. > > Any advice on how to proceed? Sand off the rust, varnish, and let it go > for a while? > > Have you tried Naval Jelly or some other oxalic acid treatment? > > Chris Campbell > > > > > >

Adam, I believe naval jelly contains phosphoric acid. Phosphoric acid reacts with the iron oxide (rust) and turns it and any unoxidized iron to iron phosphate which is a stable compound which is black in color and may not be the most attractive finish. A couple of years ago I had some cracks rewelded in the joint at the base of my stantions within a couple of weeks rust began to appear, I cleaned the area with Barkeepers Friend which is a cleanser available in grocery stores. This cleanser which is recommended for stainless and copper contains oxalic acid. The result was the joints cleaned up and no rust stains have reappeared. NOTE: I keep my boat in Lake Erie and have no salt water exposure. John Boyce CAL 227 #650 _____ From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Adam Thorp Sent: Monday, July 23, 2012 11:46 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] *rusting* C954 aluminum bronze chainplates I have not tried anything. I will start with Naval Jelly. After the rust is removed, what would you coat it with to protect it? On Mon, Jul 23, 2012 at 8:28 AM, Chris Campbell <cc… [at] lsnm.org> wrote: On 7/23/2012 10:14 AM, Adam Thorp wrote: Hey, Here are some pictures of the chainplates that have been rusting up on me. I used C954 aluminum bronze bought from onlinemetals.com to machine these. Any advice on how to proceed? Sand off the rust, varnish, and let it go for a while? Have you tried Naval Jelly or some other oxalic acid treatment? Chris Campbell

Naval Jelly is used to loosen and remove rust. I think once you do that you have to rinse and wash it off. When I was in the Navy, we used nail polish remover to take the varnish off the belt buckle so we could polish it, inside and out.Without the varnish, of course, the buckle would tarnish as soon as you touched it. So, once you've polished the metal real good, maybe spray some clear urethane on it? BTW, is that really rust, or is it tarnish? rust would be more granular and rough looking. In any case, keeping the oxygen out will prevent any kind of rust or tarnish from occurring If in doubt, it's always one of these: paint, polish, or salute, maybe all three.. Jerry From: Adam Thorp <th… [at] gmail.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, July 23, 2012 8:46 AM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] *rusting* C954 aluminum bronze chainplates I have not tried anything. I will start with Naval Jelly. After the rust is removed, what would you coat it with to protect it? On Mon, Jul 23, 2012 at 8:28 AM, Chris Campbell <cc… [at] lsnm.org> wrote: > > On 7/23/2012 10:14 AM, Adam Thorp wrote: >Hey, >> >> >>Here are some pictures of the chainplates that have been rusting up on me. I used C954 aluminum bronze bought from onlinemetals.com to machine these. >> >> >>Any advice on how to proceed? Sand off the rust, varnish, and let it go for a while? >> Have you tried Naval Jelly or some other oxalic acid treatment? > >Chris Campbell > > >> >> >

Great info. Thanks for all the help. On Mon, Jul 23, 2012 at 9:37 AM, Gerald Sobel <so… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > ** > > > Naval Jelly is used to loosen and remove rust. I think once you do that > you have to rinse and wash it off. When I was in the Navy, we used nail > polish remover to take the varnish off the belt buckle so we could polish > it, inside and out.Without the varnish, of course, the buckle would tarnish > as soon as you touched it. So, once you've polished the metal real good, > maybe spray some clear urethane on it? BTW, is that really rust, or is it > tarnish? rust would be more granular and rough looking. In any case, > keeping the oxygen out will prevent any kind of rust or tarnish from > occurring > If in doubt, it's always one of these: paint, polish, or salute, maybe all > three.. > Jerry > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Adam Thorp <th… [at] gmail.com> > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > *Sent:* Monday, July 23, 2012 8:46 AM > > *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] *rusting* C954 aluminum bronze chainplates > > > I have not tried anything. I will start with Naval Jelly. After the rust > is removed, what would you coat it with to protect it? > > On Mon, Jul 23, 2012 at 8:28 AM, Chris Campbell <cc… [at] lsnm.org>wrote: > > ** > > ** On 7/23/2012 10:14 AM, Adam Thorp wrote: > > Hey, > > Here are some pictures of the chainplates that have been rusting up on > me. I used C954 aluminum bronze bought from onlinemetals.com to machine > these. > > Any advice on how to proceed? Sand off the rust, varnish, and let it go > for a while? > > Have you tried Naval Jelly or some other oxalic acid treatment? > > Chris Campbell > > > > > > > > >

On 7/23/2012 11:46 AM, Adam Thorp wrote: > > > I have not tried anything. I will start with Naval Jelly. After the > rust is removed, what would you coat it with to protect it? > I think you try nothing. The Naval Jelly attacks the ferrous stuff that rusts. If it's gone, no more rust. The whole idea of bronze is not having to protect it. Chris Campbell

Adam, Your choice to use this alloy for the chain-plates is a fine choice but are you sure you have C954 there? Was it a bright yellow when you purchased it? I'm afraid that does not look like C954 at all. It absolutely should not 'rust' or even tarnish very much. Aluminum Bronzes stay a light golden yellow colour because it forms a very resilient aluminum oxide coating that seals it. It does not turn the classic green/brownish of tin/phosfor/silicone bronzes, C954 actually gets used in dentistry, instead of gold for crowns quite often, as it stays bright yellow and looks like gold... If it is C954, then it has been contaminated severely by the machining process, perhaps you were machining mild steel with the cutter head just before these? But even still, it should not be that colour..... Perhaps online metals got mixed up and sent you something else by mistake?.... My .02 Alan Storey Cal 3-30x Chimera On 23-Jul-12, at 7:14 AM, Adam Thorp wrote: > [Attachment(s) from Adam Thorp included below] > Hey, > > > Here are some pictures of the chainplates that have been rusting up > on me. I used C954 aluminum bronze bought from onlinemetals.com to > machine these. > > Any advice on how to proceed? Sand off the rust, varnish, and let > it go for a while? > > Thanks, > Adam > >

The C954 was not a bright yellow color when I purchased the material. It had a interesting look to it. It looked like it had been rolled, and there were distinct waves in the material with different colors of gold and brown. After taking a pass at it with a cutter, it looked a bright yellow. See the attached picture of chainplates after machining but before install. I was not careful with the endmill I used, but I have a hard time believing that would be the problem with the rust lines as they are. I wish I had requested the mill test report when I purchased...! Oh well.... I bought some naval jelly today, will give that a whirl. On Tue, Jul 24, 2012 at 11:15 AM, Alan Storey <fo… [at] shaw.ca>wrote: > ** > > > Adam, > Your choice to use this alloy for the chain-plates is a fine choice but > are you sure you have C954 there? Was it a bright yellow when you purchased > it? I'm afraid that does not look like C954 at all. It absolutely should > not 'rust' or even tarnish very much. Aluminum Bronzes stay a light golden > yellow colour because it forms a very resilient aluminum oxide coating that > seals it. It does not turn the classic green/brownish of > tin/phosfor/silicone bronzes, C954 actually gets used in dentistry, > instead of gold for crowns quite often, as it stays bright yellow and looks > like gold... If it is C954, then it has been contaminated severely by the > machining process, perhaps you were machining mild steel with the cutter > head just before these? But even still, it should not be that colour..... > Perhaps online metals got mixed up and sent you something else by > mistake?.... > My .02 > > Alan Storey > Cal 3-30x Chimera > > On 23-Jul-12, at 7:14 AM, Adam Thorp wrote: > > > > Hey, > > Here are some pictures of the chainplates that have been rusting up on me. > I used C954 aluminum bronze bought from onlinemetals.com to machine these. > > Any advice on how to proceed? Sand off the rust, varnish, and let it go > for a while? > > Thanks, > Adam > > > >

At the very bottom of this picture is a strap that goes over one of my floors. There are two keel bolts that go through it and you can see one of the keel bolts on the lower left. This plate is not in a very nice place as it is in the bildge but it is aluminum bronze if I am recalling correctly. Whatever it is, it looks a little like your chainplates. On Tue, Jul 24, 2012 at 2:03 PM, Adam Thorp <th… [at] gmail.com> wrote: > ** > > > The C954 was not a bright yellow color when I purchased the material. It > had a interesting look to it. It looked like it had been rolled, and there > were distinct waves in the material with different colors of gold and > brown. After taking a pass at it with a cutter, it looked a bright yellow. > See the attached picture of chainplates after machining but before install. > I was not careful with the endmill I used, but I have a hard time believing > that would be the problem with the rust lines as they are. > > I wish I had requested the mill test report when I purchased...! Oh > well.... I bought some naval jelly today, will give that a whirl. > > > On Tue, Jul 24, 2012 at 11:15 AM, Alan Storey <fo… [at] shaw.ca>wrote: > >> ** >> >> >> Adam, >> Your choice to use this alloy for the chain-plates is a fine choice but >> are you sure you have C954 there? Was it a bright yellow when you purchased >> it? I'm afraid that does not look like C954 at all. It absolutely should >> not 'rust' or even tarnish very much. Aluminum Bronzes stay a light golden >> yellow colour because it forms a very resilient aluminum oxide coating that >> seals it. It does not turn the classic green/brownish of >> tin/phosfor/silicone bronzes, C954 actually gets used in dentistry, >> instead of gold for crowns quite often, as it stays bright yellow and looks >> like gold... If it is C954, then it has been contaminated severely by the >> machining process, perhaps you were machining mild steel with the cutter >> head just before these? But even still, it should not be that colour..... >> Perhaps online metals got mixed up and sent you something else by >> mistake?.... >> My .02 >> >> Alan Storey >> Cal 3-30x Chimera >> >> On 23-Jul-12, at 7:14 AM, Adam Thorp wrote: >> >> >> >> Hey, >> >> Here are some pictures of the chainplates that have been rusting up on >> me. I used C954 aluminum bronze bought from onlinemetals.com to machine >> these. >> >> Any advice on how to proceed? Sand off the rust, varnish, and let it go >> for a while? >> >> Thanks, >> Adam >> >> >> > >

I would switch to 316 SS and buy suitable stock, either from a supplier and or scap dealer. Lots to be found. A simple plasma torch and some grinding and you have a nice set. If you know what your doing its about 2 days work at most. Remove and replace one at a time. no need to take the mast down just run an extra line from the spreaders to the deck on the side you are replacing. You cannot stop rust but that is not the issue. The issue is rust creates space and space lets water in and cant toast your core. That is a far more important concern. Seal all deck fitting with butyl tape found at any RV store. pbase as an excellent series of howto's that are well worth a read. Best of luck regardless of what method you chose. /ch On Mon, Jul 23, 2012 at 10:14 AM, Adam Thorp <th… [at] gmail.com> wrote: > [Attachment(s) <#138b4311ae3caf29_TopText> from Adam Thorp included > below] > > Hey, > > Here are some pictures of the chainplates that have been rusting up on me. > I used C954 aluminum bronze bought from onlinemetals.com to machine these. > > Any advice on how to proceed? Sand off the rust, varnish, and let it go > for a while? > > Thanks, > Adam > > Attachment(s) from Adam Thorp > > 5 of 5 Photo(s) > [image: photo (1).JPG]<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Cal_Boats/attachments/folder/65284502/item/133091726/view> > photo (1).JPG<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Cal_Boats/attachments/folder/65284502/item/133091726/view> > [image: photo (2).JPG]<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Cal_Boats/attachments/folder/65284502/item/1647633769/view> > photo (2).JPG<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Cal_Boats/attachments/folder/65284502/item/1647633769/view> > [image: photo (3).JPG]<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Cal_Boats/attachments/folder/65284502/item/1772851932/view> > photo (3).JPG<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Cal_Boats/attachments/folder/65284502/item/1772851932/view> > [image: photo (4).JPG]<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Cal_Boats/attachments/folder/65284502/item/1719957558/view> > photo (4).JPG<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Cal_Boats/attachments/folder/65284502/item/1719957558/view> > [image: photo (5).JPG]<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Cal_Boats/attachments/folder/65284502/item/1130562651/view> > photo (5).JPG<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Cal_Boats/attachments/folder/65284502/item/1130562651/view> > > -- /ch

Sorry here is the link http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/boat_projects /ch

Sorry Adam did not read the entire thread. Seems you know your way around a machine shop and have the appropriate equipment. I would still switch to stainless as others have pointed out the material is probably not to spec. Best regards /ch

Chris, Thank you for the suggestion When I replaced the chainplates, I dug out the plywood core around the rectangular hole in the deck and filled with thickened epoxy to seal the core off from a possible chainplate leak. I've been careful about that with all my fittings. Interesting that you would suggest stainless. Being in an oxygen deprived area, wouldn't corrosion be a problem. I would think to go to a silicon bronze or titanium if it is not thru the roof expensive. Thanks, Adam On Fri, Jul 27, 2012 at 7:53 AM, chris123 <ch… [at] gmail.com>wrote: > ** > > > Sorry Adam did not read the entire thread. Seems you know your way around > a machine shop and have the appropriate equipment. I would still switch to > stainless as others have pointed out the material is probably not to spec. > > Best regards > > /ch > > >

My bronze chain plates are the originals from 1962 and are fine. However, there are brownish streaks down the side of the hull, I think, but that's probably tarnish, which is oxidation, which is...rust? What are the brown shades on the side of my hull, sea rust? Does it look cool, or, should I attack it with something, like oxalic acid, polish, rubbing paste? Jerry From: chris123 <ch… [at] gmail.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, July 27, 2012 7:47 AM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] *rusting* C954 aluminum bronze chainplates I would switch to 316 SS and buy suitable stock, either from a supplier and or scap dealer. Lots to be found. A simple plasma torch and some grinding and you have a nice set. If you know what your doing its about 2 days work at most. Remove and replace one at a time. no need to take the mast down just run an extra line from the spreaders to the deck on the side you are replacing. You cannot stop rust but that is not the issue. The issue is rust creates space and space lets water in and cant toast your core. That is a far more important concern. Seal all deck fitting with butyl tape found at any RV store. pbase as an excellent series of howto's that are well worth a read. Best of luck regardless of what method you chose. /ch On Mon, Jul 23, 2012 at 10:14 AM, Adam Thorp <th… [at] gmail.com> wrote: [Attachment(s) from Adam Thorp included below] > >Hey, > > >Here are some pictures of the chainplates that have been rusting up on me. I used C954 aluminum bronze bought from onlinemetals.com to machine these. > > >Any advice on how to proceed? Sand off the rust, varnish, and let it go for a while? > > >Thanks, >Adam >Attachment(s) from Adam Thorp >5 of 5 Photo(s) >photo (1).JPG >photo (2).JPG >photo (3).JPG >photo (4).JPG >photo (5).JPG > -- /ch

I respectfully submit that the Butyl tape I found at RV stores so far is very sub par. Use only top quality butyl tape. Reggie To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: ch… [at] gmail.com Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2012 10:47:23 -0400 Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] *rusting* C954 aluminum bronze chainplates I would switch to 316 SS and buy suitable stock, either from a supplier and or scap dealer. Lots to be found. A simple plasma torch and some grinding and you have a nice set. If you know what your doing its about 2 days work at most. Remove and replace one at a time. no need to take the mast down just run an extra line from the spreaders to the deck on the side you are replacing. You cannot stop rust but that is not the issue. The issue is rust creates space and space lets water in and cant toast your core. That is a far more important concern. Seal all deck fitting with butyl tape found at any RV store. pbase as an excellent series of howto's that are well worth a read. Best of luck regardless of what method you chose. /ch On Mon, Jul 23, 2012 at 10:14 AM, Adam Thorp <th… [at] gmail.com> wrote: [Attachment(s) from Adam Thorp included below] Hey, Here are some pictures of the chainplates that have been rusting up on me. I used C954 aluminum bronze bought from onlinemetals.com to machine these. Any advice on how to proceed? Sand off the rust, varnish, and let it go for a while? Thanks, Adam Attachment(s) from Adam Thorp 5 of 5 Photo(s) photo (1).JPG photo (2).JPG photo (3).JPG photo (4).JPG photo (5).JPG -- /ch

I bought my butyl tape from 'Mainsail' and it's good stuff. http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape My original bronze plates were flaking in the area covered by the deck. On Fri, Jul 27, 2012 at 9:40 AM, Gerald Sobel <so… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > ** > > > My bronze chain plates are the originals from 1962 and are fine. However, > there are brownish streaks down the side of the hull, I think, but that's > probably tarnish, which is oxidation, which is...rust? > What are the brown shades on the side of my hull, sea rust? Does it look > cool, or, should I attack it with something, like oxalic acid, polish, > rubbing paste? > Jerry > > ------------------------------ > *From:* chris123 <ch… [at] gmail.com> > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > *Sent:* Friday, July 27, 2012 7:47 AM > > *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] *rusting* C954 aluminum bronze chainplates > > > I would switch to 316 SS and buy suitable stock, either from a supplier > and or scap dealer. Lots to be found. A simple plasma torch and some > grinding and you have a nice set. If you know what your doing its about 2 > days work at most. Remove and replace one at a time. no need to take the > mast down just run an extra line from the spreaders to the deck on the side > you are replacing. You cannot stop rust but that is not the issue. The > issue is rust creates space and space lets water in and cant toast your > core. That is a far more important concern. Seal all deck fitting with > butyl tape found at any RV store. pbase as an excellent series of howto's > that are well worth a read. > > Best of luck regardless of what method you chose. > > /ch > > > On Mon, Jul 23, 2012 at 10:14 AM, Adam Thorp <th… [at] gmail.com> wrote: > > [Attachment(s)<http://us-mg0.mail.yahoo.com/neo/#138b4311ae3caf29_TopText>from Adam Thorp included below] > > Hey, > > Here are some pictures of the chainplates that have been rusting up on me. > I used C954 aluminum bronze bought from onlinemetals.com to machine these. > > Any advice on how to proceed? Sand off the rust, varnish, and let it go > for a while? > > Thanks, > Adam > > Attachment(s) from Adam Thorp > 5 of 5 Photo(s) > [image: photo (1).JPG]<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Cal_Boats/attachments/folder/65284502/item/133091726/view> > photo (1).JPG<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Cal_Boats/attachments/folder/65284502/item/133091726/view> > [image: photo (2).JPG]<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Cal_Boats/attachments/folder/65284502/item/1647633769/view> > photo (2).JPG<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Cal_Boats/attachments/folder/65284502/item/1647633769/view> > [image: photo (3).JPG]<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Cal_Boats/attachments/folder/65284502/item/1772851932/view> > photo (3).JPG<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Cal_Boats/attachments/folder/65284502/item/1772851932/view> > [image: photo (4).JPG]<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Cal_Boats/attachments/folder/65284502/item/1719957558/view> > photo (4).JPG<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Cal_Boats/attachments/folder/65284502/item/1719957558/view> > [image: photo (5).JPG]<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Cal_Boats/attachments/folder/65284502/item/1130562651/view> > photo (5).JPG<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Cal_Boats/attachments/folder/65284502/item/1130562651/view> > > > > > -- > /ch > > > > > >

I bought same. Reggie To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: th… [at] gmail.com Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2012 09:53:22 -0700 Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] *rusting* C954 aluminum bronze chainplates I bought my butyl tape from 'Mainsail' and it's good stuff. http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape My original bronze plates were flaking in the area covered by the deck. On Fri, Jul 27, 2012 at 9:40 AM, Gerald Sobel <so… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: My bronze chain plates are the originals from 1962 and are fine. However, there are brownish streaks down the side of the hull, I think, but that's probably tarnish, which is oxidation, which is...rust? What are the brown shades on the side of my hull, sea rust? Does it look cool, or, should I attack it with something, like oxalic acid, polish, rubbing paste? Jerry From: chris123 <ch… [at] gmail.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, July 27, 2012 7:47 AM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] *rusting* C954 aluminum bronze chainplates I would switch to 316 SS and buy suitable stock, either from a supplier and or scap dealer. Lots to be found. A simple plasma torch and some grinding and you have a nice set. If you know what your doing its about 2 days work at most. Remove and replace one at a time. no need to take the mast down just run an extra line from the spreaders to the deck on the side you are replacing. You cannot stop rust but that is not the issue. The issue is rust creates space and space lets water in and cant toast your core. That is a far more important concern. Seal all deck fitting with butyl tape found at any RV store. pbase as an excellent series of howto's that are well worth a read. Best of luck regardless of what method you chose. /ch On Mon, Jul 23, 2012 at 10:14 AM, Adam Thorp <th… [at] gmail.com> wrote: [Attachment(s) from Adam Thorp included below] Hey, Here are some pictures of the chainplates that have been rusting up on me. I used C954 aluminum bronze bought from onlinemetals.com to machine these. Any advice on how to proceed? Sand off the rust, varnish, and let it go for a while? Thanks, Adam Attachment(s) from Adam Thorp 5 of 5 Photo(s) photo (1).JPG photo (2).JPG photo (3).JPG photo (4).JPG photo (5).JPG -- /ch

Adam: What is the boat in question? Model and date if you dont mind. Best regards /ch

My personal theory only...not substantiated of course..but it makes sense to me. Allen wrote an interesting article on galvanic corrosion from dissimilar metals a while back. This was an issue on my older CAL 29. When you look at your setup or stainless steel contacting silicone bronze combined in a marine environment of salt water which is essentially a base only adds to the effect. A side note. Dont focus on the environmental issues in this article rather on the data only for the purpose of this discussion. The data points that ocean water is very quickly moving from the basic range to neutral. This is referred to as acidification. If that is indeed correct, then the galvanic effect of dissimilar metals will only increase over time. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ocean_acidification So perhaps a cause or contributing factor of the discolouration is this galvanic effect of the different metals. Is that is the case and it should be able to test it with a meter, then the issue becomes simpler. Isolation of the metals becomes critical, the rest being cleaning. As I said....just a theory. /ch On Sat, Jul 28, 2012 at 12:11 AM, chris123 <ch… [at] gmail.com> wrote: > Adam: > > What is the boat in question? Model and date if you dont mind. > > Best regards > > /ch > > > -- /ch

Cal 28 flat top, 1964 I believe, hull number is 41 On Jul 27, 2012, at 9:11 PM, chris123 <ch… [at] gmail.com> wrote: > Adam: > > What is the boat in question? Model and date if you dont mind. > > Best regards > > /ch > > > >

OK...thanks for the data.....the reason I ask is that whatever method you choose the solution and boat will outlast us..:) So its not critical, important yes but not critical. For the same reason I don't buy the arguments against SS given this application. Thinner parts such as life line and fasteners absolutely. Your application it wont matter IMHO. Since you have material and labour costs invested in your current set, and a lot of care and love, probably best to stick with it but do look at ways to isolate the SS ends from the bronze to avoid any form of electrolysis from galvanic activity. Also check with the supplier on the spec of the material you bought as there may be an issue at that end as well as others have pointed out. Best of luck and sorry to hear about this as I'm sure you have a lot of time invested. /ch