rusted coupling; give up?

Folks, I have a severely rusted shaft to transmission coupling and am wondering if I should just clean it up and call it good or keep trying to free the bolts. Even if I do get the (two) bolts out I doubt that it is going come off the shaft without a significant struggle and potential collateral damage. I have been hitting it with liquid wrench for a couple weeks now and got the nuts off, but the bolts are not moving. I am wondering if maybe I should just take off as much surface rust as possible, paint it, and call it good. I am also working on de-rusting and painting the rest of the engine but the rest of it is nothing like the shaft coupling. Any success stories or methods to get this thing apart is appreciated. Thanks, Chris Cal 31 Poulsbo, WA

Have you tried heating it up with a torch and then applying Liquid Wrench or my favorite PB Blaster? Be very careful obviously. Paul From: Some guy <sc… [at] yahoo.com> To: Cal_Boats <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Mon, Apr 22, 2013 9:50 am Subject: [Cal_Boats] rusted coupling; give up? Folks, I have a severely rusted shaft to transmission coupling and am wondering if I should just clean it up and call it good or keep trying to free the bolts. Even if I do get the (two) bolts out I doubt that it is going come off the shaft without a significant struggle and potential collateral damage. I have been hitting it with liquid wrench for a couple weeks now and got the nuts off, but the bolts are not moving. I am wondering if maybe I should just take off as much surface rust as possible, paint it, and call it good. I am also working on de-rusting and painting the rest of the engine but the rest of it is nothing like the shaft coupling. Any success stories or methods to get this thing apart is appreciated. Thanks, Chris Cal 31 Poulsbo, WA

Are we talking about the bolts that go through the coupling flange and the transmission flange? I ask because 2 bolts don't seem to be enough to make a stable connection, I have not seen one with less than 3 bolts. If/when you get the bolts out, do you know the trick with the socket? Get longer bolts, put a socket in the coupling that is small enough that it only hits the prop shaft, Tighten the bolts a little at a time. John From: Some guy <sc… [at] yahoo.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 6:50 AM Subject: [Cal_Boats] rusted coupling; give up? Folks, I have a severely rusted shaft to transmission coupling and am wondering if I should just clean it up and call it good or keep trying to free the bolts. Even if I do get the (two) bolts out I doubt that it is going come off the shaft without a significant struggle and potential collateral damage. I have been hitting it with liquid wrench for a couple weeks now and got the nuts off, but the bolts are not moving. I am wondering if maybe I should just take off as much surface rust as possible, paint it, and call it good. I am also working on de-rusting and painting the rest of the engine but the rest of it is nothing like the shaft coupling. Any success stories or methods to get this thing apart is appreciated. Thanks, Chris Cal 31 Poulsbo, WA

You have 2 options - 1] non destructive 2 ] destructive Option one - Remove the set screws. This may take heat [ from a propane torch ] or you may have to drill them out. Now use a gear puller [ rent one from an auto parts store ] Option two - Drill out the set screws. Now drill a series of holes into the coupler, immediately above the shaft key. The goal is to make a slot all along the coupler. The brass shaft key protects the shaft during the drilling.. This slot will remove the clamping pressure on the shaft. Now use option one, above. Joe DeMers On 4/22/2013 9:50 AM, Some guy wrote: > Folks, > > I have a severely rusted shaft to transmission coupling and am wondering if I should just clean it up and call it good or keep trying to free the bolts. > > Even if I do get the (two) bolts out I doubt that it is going come off the shaft without a significant struggle and potential collateral damage. > > I have been hitting it with liquid wrench for a couple weeks now and got the nuts off, but the bolts are not moving. > > I am wondering if maybe I should just take off as much surface rust as possible, paint it, and call it good. > > I am also working on de-rusting and painting the rest of the engine but the rest of it is nothing like the shaft coupling. > > Any success stories or methods to get this thing apart is appreciated. > > Thanks, > Chris > Cal 31 > Poulsbo, WA > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2013.0.3272 / Virus Database: 3162/6264 - Release Date: 04/22/13 > > -- *Joe DeMers - owner* Sound Marine Diesel LLC SoundMarineDiesel.com <http://www.soundmarinediesel.com/> *phone & fax (860) 666-2184*

Thanks all, It is where the coupling attaches to the shaft that is stuck. Where it attaches to the trans. is good. No rust there. I have not tried heat. I will try. Did I hear you say heat and THEN apply PB blaster? I can try that. I will keep a fire extinguisher handy for that one. I am not afraid of a little fire but is there risk of explosion? Do you let it cool again prior to spraying? If it does not come off next weekend, I will send a picture of the set-up so you can see the bolts. There are only two and they are Thru-bolts on either side of the shaft. If they are rusted all the way along the 4" dpth, I may be hosed. Thanks --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, Joe DeMers <jedsail@...> wrote: > > You have 2 options - > > 1] non destructive 2 ] destructive > > > Option one - > > Remove the set screws. This may take heat [ from a propane torch ] or > you may have to drill them out. Now use a gear puller [ rent one from an > auto parts store ] > > Option two - > > Drill out the set screws. Now drill a series of holes into the coupler, > immediately above the shaft key. The goal is to make a slot all along > the coupler. The brass shaft key protects the shaft during the > drilling.. This slot will remove the clamping pressure on the shaft. Now > use option one, above. > > Joe DeMers > > > > > On 4/22/2013 9:50 AM, Some guy wrote: > > Folks, > > > > I have a severely rusted shaft to transmission coupling and am wondering if I should just clean it up and call it good or keep trying to free the bolts. > > > > Even if I do get the (two) bolts out I doubt that it is going come off the shaft without a significant struggle and potential collateral damage. > > > > I have been hitting it with liquid wrench for a couple weeks now and got the nuts off, but the bolts are not moving. > > > > I am wondering if maybe I should just take off as much surface rust as possible, paint it, and call it good. > > > > I am also working on de-rusting and painting the rest of the engine but the rest of it is nothing like the shaft coupling. > > > > Any success stories or methods to get this thing apart is appreciated. > > > > Thanks, > > Chris > > Cal 31 > > Poulsbo, WA > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > ----- > > No virus found in this message. > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > Version: 2013.0.3272 / Virus Database: 3162/6264 - Release Date: 04/22/13 > > > > > > -- > > *Joe DeMers - owner* > > Sound Marine Diesel LLC > > SoundMarineDiesel.com <http://www.soundmarinediesel.com/> > > *phone & fax (860) 666-2184* >

Apply the heat with the torch being careful not to ignite the fiberglass. After the torch is off and out of the way, apply the PB Blaster while it is still hot and the metal is expanded. If you bang on the bolts while hot that will help to dislodge the rust and allow better penetration. I have even soaked rags in penetrating oils and wrapped them tightly around affected areas and left them there as long as I could in between visits to the boat. Paul From: Some guy <sc… [at] yahoo.com> To: Cal_Boats <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Mon, Apr 22, 2013 12:01 pm Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: rusted coupling; give up? Thanks all, It is where the coupling attaches to the shaft that is stuck. Where it attaches to the trans. is good. No rust there. I have not tried heat. I will try. Did I hear you say heat and THEN apply PB blaster? I can try that. I will keep a fire extinguisher handy for that one. I am not afraid of a little fire but is there risk of explosion? Do you let it cool again prior to spraying? If it does not come off next weekend, I will send a picture of the set-up so you can see the bolts. There are only two and they are Thru-bolts on either side of the shaft. If they are rusted all the way along the 4" dpth, I may be hosed. Thanks --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, Joe DeMers <jedsail@...> wrote: > > You have 2 options - > > 1] non destructive 2 ] destructive > > > Option one - > > Remove the set screws. This may take heat [ from a propane torch ] or > you may have to drill them out. Now use a gear puller [ rent one from an > auto parts store ] > > Option two - > > Drill out the set screws. Now drill a series of holes into the coupler, > immediately above the shaft key. The goal is to make a slot all along > the coupler. The brass shaft key protects the shaft during the > drilling.. This slot will remove the clamping pressure on the shaft. Now > use option one, above. > > Joe DeMers > > > > > On 4/22/2013 9:50 AM, Some guy wrote: > > Folks, > > > > I have a severely rusted shaft to transmission coupling and am wondering if I should just clean it up and call it good or keep trying to free the bolts. > > > > Even if I do get the (two) bolts out I doubt that it is going come off the shaft without a significant struggle and potential collateral damage. > > > > I have been hitting it with liquid wrench for a couple weeks now and got the nuts off, but the bolts are not moving. > > > > I am wondering if maybe I should just take off as much surface rust as possible, paint it, and call it good. > > > > I am also working on de-rusting and painting the rest of the engine but the rest of it is nothing like the shaft coupling. > > > > Any success stories or methods to get this thing apart is appreciated. > > > > Thanks, > > Chris > > Cal 31 > > Poulsbo, WA > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > ----- > > No virus found in this message. > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > Version: 2013.0.3272 / Virus Database: 3162/6264 - Release Date: 04/22/13 > > > > > > -- > > *Joe DeMers - owner* > > Sound Marine Diesel LLC > > SoundMarineDiesel.com <http://www.soundmarinediesel.com/> > > *phone & fax (860) 666-2184* >

I was reading lately about using a special can of propelleant that freezes, vs. using heating, to loosen the rusted joint. Maybe you can use a heat gun or hair dryer to heat the coupling, then zap the bolt with this freezing stuff, plus special prayers to the Rust God just might work. Jerry of Shhppritzz From: Some guy <sc… [at] yahoo.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 6:50 AM Subject: [Cal_Boats] rusted coupling; give up? Folks, I have a severely rusted shaft to transmission coupling and am wondering if I should just clean it up and call it good or keep trying to free the bolts. Even if I do get the (two) bolts out I doubt that it is going come off the shaft without a significant struggle and potential collateral damage. I have been hitting it with liquid wrench for a couple weeks now and got the nuts off, but the bolts are not moving. I am wondering if maybe I should just take off as much surface rust as possible, paint it, and call it good. I am also working on de-rusting and painting the rest of the engine but the rest of it is nothing like the shaft coupling. Any success stories or methods to get this thing apart is appreciated. Thanks, Chris Cal 31 Poulsbo, WA

Have heard that a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid is the magic stuff. George Barlow Town of Cow On Apr 22, 2013, at 1:18 PM, Gerald Sobel <so… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > I was reading lately about using a special can of propelleant that freezes, vs. using heating, to loosen the rusted joint. Maybe you can use a heat gun or hair dryer to heat the coupling, then zap the bolt with this freezing stuff, plus special prayers to the Rust God just might work. > Jerry of Shhppritzz > > > From: Some guy <sc… [at] yahoo.com> > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 6:50 AM > Subject: [Cal_Boats] rusted coupling; give up? > > > > Folks, > > I have a severely rusted shaft to transmission coupling and am wondering if I should just clean it up and call it good or keep trying to free the bolts. > > Even if I do get the (two) bolts out I doubt that it is going come off the shaft without a significant struggle and potential collateral damage. > > I have been hitting it with liquid wrench for a couple weeks now and got the nuts off, but the bolts are not moving. > > I am wondering if maybe I should just take off as much surface rust as possible, paint it, and call it good. > > I am also working on de-rusting and painting the rest of the engine but the rest of it is nothing like the shaft coupling. > > Any success stories or methods to get this thing apart is appreciated. > > Thanks, > Chris > Cal 31 > Poulsbo, WA > > > >

We have tried the acetone/ATF mix,---. BS, it does not work any better than the other "Snake Oils", maybe less expensive??? Other options that have worked for me: - After soaking with PB Blaster, Aero kroil, Snake oils, etc. for days/weeks, put a nut smaller than the shaft size on the end of the shaft and use the shaft coupling bolts to try to seperate the shaft from the coupling. -Remove the engine/trans and use a "Sawz-All" with a metal cutting blade to make a longitudinal cut on the coupling. This should remove enough pressure to pull the coupling off the shaft. New couplings are $40 to $80. - The "Heat Wrench" works well, but even safe diesel fuel has an ignition temperature of 138 degrees F. Have someone standing by with a fire extinguisher and a phone to call 911. -If you are unsure or "The Frugal Sailor" ask around your yacht club, marina, or CalPals for help. Don't give up. Tom Vandiver, Cal 46 Bayou Chico, FL From: George Barlow <ge… [at] yahoo.com> To: "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 6:04 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] rusted coupling; give up? Have heard that a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid is the magic stuff. George Barlow Town of Cow On Apr 22, 2013, at 1:18 PM, Gerald Sobel <so… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: >I was reading lately about using a special can of propelleant that freezes, vs. using heating, to loosen the rusted joint. Maybe you can use a heat gun or hair dryer to heat the coupling, then zap the bolt with this freezing stuff, plus special prayers to the Rust God just might work.Jerry of Shhppritzz > > > > > >________________________________ > From: Some guy <sc… [at] yahoo.com> >To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com >Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 6:50 AM >Subject: [Cal_Boats] rusted coupling; give up? > > > Folks, I have a severely rusted shaft to transmission coupling and am wondering if I should just clean it up and call it good or keep trying to free the bolts. Even if I do get the (two) bolts out I doubt that it is going come off the shaft without a significant struggle and potential collateral damage. I have been hitting it with liquid wrench for a couple weeks now and got the nuts off, but the bolts are not moving. I am wondering if maybe I should just take off as much surface rust as possible, paint it, and call it good. I am also working on de-rusting and painting the rest of the engine but the rest of it is nothing like the shaft coupling. Any success stories or methods to get this thing apart is appreciated. Thanks, Chris Cal 31 Poulsbo, WA

Thanks for the ideas. I did not get any "just clean it up, paint it, and don't let it get worse" replys so I will keep working at it. At some point I will go that way if I can't get the thing off as I want to sail this summer and it feels pretty darn solid at the moment. Thanks all. CC --- In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, "Some guy" <sculler2000@...> wrote: > > > Folks, > > I have a severely rusted shaft to transmission coupling and am wondering if I should just clean it up and call it good or keep trying to free the bolts. > > Even if I do get the (two) bolts out I doubt that it is going come off the shaft without a significant struggle and potential collateral damage. > > I have been hitting it with liquid wrench for a couple weeks now and got the nuts off, but the bolts are not moving. > > I am wondering if maybe I should just take off as much surface rust as possible, paint it, and call it good. > > I am also working on de-rusting and painting the rest of the engine but the rest of it is nothing like the shaft coupling. > > Any success stories or methods to get this thing apart is appreciated. > > Thanks, > Chris > Cal 31 > Poulsbo, WA >

If it's mainly just ugly looking, not rusted out clean it up spray some paint on it and go sailing. It you need to remove now all the other ideas are great. My.02 From: Some guy <sc… [at] yahoo.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2013 6:55 AM Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: rusted coupling; give up? Thanks for the ideas. I did not get any "just clean it up, paint it, and don't let it get worse" replys so I will keep working at it. At some point I will go that way if I can't get the thing off as I want to sail this summer and it feels pretty darn solid at the moment. Thanks all. CC --- In mailto:Cal_Boats%40yahoogroups.com, "Some guy" <sculler2000@...> wrote: > > > Folks, > > I have a severely rusted shaft to transmission coupling and am wondering if I should just clean it up and call it good or keep trying to free the bolts. > > Even if I do get the (two) bolts out I doubt that it is going come off the shaft without a significant struggle and potential collateral damage. > > I have been hitting it with liquid wrench for a couple weeks now and got the nuts off, but the bolts are not moving. > > I am wondering if maybe I should just take off as much surface rust as possible, paint it, and call it good. > > I am also working on de-rusting and painting the rest of the engine but the rest of it is nothing like the shaft coupling. > > Any success stories or methods to get this thing apart is appreciated. > > Thanks, > Chris > Cal 31 > Poulsbo, WA >

On 4/22/2013 2:18 PM, Gerald Sobel wrote: > > > I was reading lately about using a special can of propelleant that > freezes, vs. using heating, to loosen the rusted joint. How about some dry ice? Cold is generally safer than torch heat in a confined space with combustible materials Chris Campbell

Let's see. Soak it in 50-50 acetone and transmission fluid, then some iodine, heat the housing with heat gun or hair drier, and hold a piece of dry ice against the bolt head, then wack it with a hammer. It's gotta come loose! If not, add some plastic explowseeve like in Man from Uncle. That's the ticket! Jerry From: Chris Campbell <cc… [at] lsnm.org> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2013 10:53 AM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] rusted coupling; give up? On 4/22/2013 2:18 PM, Gerald Sobel wrote: I was reading lately about using a special can of propelleant that freezes, vs. using heating, to loosen the rusted joint. How about some dry ice? Cold is generally safer than torch heat in a confined space with combustible materials Chris Campbell

The coupler on the end of the prop shaft? A little rusty? Hit it with WD-40 every week for a couple of years. Then if you ever need to get it off, it should be free. Allen On Tue, Apr 23, 2013 at 2:18 PM, Gerald Sobel <so… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > ** > > > Let's see. Soak it in 50-50 acetone and transmission fluid, then some > iodine, heat the housing with heat gun or hair drier, and hold a piece of > dry ice against the bolt head, then wack it with a hammer. It's gotta come > loose! > If not, add some plastic explowseeve like in Man from Uncle. That's the > ticket! > Jerry > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Chris Campbell <cc… [at] lsnm.org> > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > *Sent:* Tuesday, April 23, 2013 10:53 AM > *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] rusted coupling; give up? > > > On 4/22/2013 2:18 PM, Gerald Sobel wrote: > > I was reading lately about using a special can of propelleant that > freezes, vs. using heating, to loosen the rusted joint. > > > How about some dry ice? Cold is generally safer than torch heat in a > confined space with combustible materials > > Chris Campbell > > > > >