Re: [Cal_Boats] How to reseal hull to deck joint of my 1968 original Cal Cruising 46

I have to admit that my boat(s) has/have to many gaps to seal everything up, but I like the idea. Problem with Jerry’s impervious crewman is that the leak downward need not be where the water is entering. Lots of little gaps and channels where the water might run along the deck and deck/hull joint. A good start is to camp below with a six pack during a rain storm, but as pointed out above, it does not show the entry point. May not prove much, but the six pack is a worthwhile exercise. By the way, the stanchion bases should, at a minimum, have fender washers underneath. Backing plate is better, but fender washers are easier. If there is crud areound the holes, time to do a full refill and recaulk. Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gerald Sobel Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2013 9:14 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: [External] Re: [Cal_Boats] How to resell hull to deck joint of my 1968 original Cal Cruising 46 Maties, So far we have the water hose method, and the air pressure soap bubble method. I propose a third way, over canvas the boat and take it off shore in heavy seas, in 25 to 30 knots, leaving a crewman below who is impervious to sea sickness, to look for water dribbling down below. It should be easy, since he or she only needs to look for a leak on the leeward side, well, mostly. Jerry PS: The air pressure method sounds pretty neat, but it sounds like a job sealing up all the vents, hatches, and companionways with quack tape or masking tape. At least you don't have to leave someone below to up chuck or suffocate, now that I think of it. But, way you kill two crew with one bash. From: Allen Edwards <al… [at] gmail.com> To: "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2013 6:03 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] How to resell hull to deck joint of my 1968 original Cal Cruising 46 That is so cool an idea. Does it work? ;-) On Wed, May 29, 2013 at 3:36 PM, Mark Alan Stahnke (MAS Consulting) <ma… [at] cox.net<mailto:ma… [at] cox.net>> wrote: Also, one might try pressurizing the cabin with an electric shop vac with leaf blower. Set up the leaf blower inside and close up cabin to increase pressure. Now with the cabin pressurized, take a squirt bottle with soapy water and test all thru deck fittings. Any traceable leakage will create active bubbles. Mark A. Stahnke MAS Consulting (310) 832-5992 The information in this electronic mail transmission covered by the electronic communications privacy act (18 USC Sections 2510-2521) is confidential and intended to be sent only to the stated recipient(s) of the transmission. It may therefore be protected from unauthorized use or dissemination by client/attorney work-product privileges. If you are not the intended recipient or the intended recipient's agent, you are hereby notified that any review, use, dissemination or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. You are also asked to notify us immediately by telephone and to delete/destroy the original. From: edwmama<mailto:ed… [at] gmail.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2013 9:12 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] How to resell hull to deck joint of my 1968 original Cal Cruising 46 Great Idea Gerry I will have to take a closer look Thx Edwin Marina del Rey CA On May 28, 2013, at 12:03, Gerald Sobel <so… [at] yahoo.com<mailto:so… [at] yahoo.com>> wrote: It could be condensation, too! I noticed there is lots of that after the sun goes down. Warm air inside the boat holds lots of water vapor which deposits itself on interior surfaces as the air chills out. Jerry From: george macon <ge… [at] hotmail.com<mailto:ge… [at] hotmail.com>> To: "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com>" <ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:ca… [at] yahoogroups.com>> Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2013 11:05 AM Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] How to resell hull to deck joint of my 1968 original Cal Cruising 46 Move the paper towel roll inboard - problem solved! To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> From: sa… [at] gmail.com<mailto:sa… [at] gmail.com> Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 14:03:16 -0400 Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] How to resell hull to deck joint of my 1968 original Cal Cruising 46 I would rule out all other things before going at the hull & deck joint. My cal 29 leaks a bit there in spots. I removed the rub rail and tried 5200, it helped but didn't solve the problem. On my boat, the deck and hull make up the flange for the rub rail and it is riveted together. I have seen some people grind the flange off, but that is more work then I want to do and I want to keep the rub rail. My next approach will be to remove the rub rail, cut the rivets off, put tape on the underside to cover all the little holes where the rub rail was screwed in and I am going to fill the joint w some shredded glass cloth and epoxy in the places where the gap is large and colliodal silica and epoxy along the entire seam. I think this will be plenty strong and will seal it up. My only concern is the colliodal silica will be brittle and may crack if impacted. Just some ideas. Hope it helps. On Tue, May 28, 2013 at 4:12 AM, edwmama <ed… [at] gmail.com<mailto:ed… [at] gmail.com>> wrote: Hi all I noticed that the roll of paper towel that was tucked in a port side wall Storage area beneath my dinette in the pilothouse was showing signs of water intrusion I've concluded that its probably a leaky hull to deck joint although I have not ruled out stanchions leaking How do I approach this resealing hull to deck joints on my cal 46? __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 8386 (20130528) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com<http://www.eset.com/> __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 8390 (20130529) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com<http://www.eset.com/>

Charlie, "I have to admit that my boat(s) has/have to many gaps to seal everything up, but I like the idea. Problem with Jerry’s impervious crewman is that the leak downward need not be where the water is entering. Lots of little gaps and channels where the water might run along the deck and deck/hull joint." I thought about that, but the imagery was too good not to mention, and worth a chuckle, desperately trying to find the leak while the boat is bucking wildly all over the place, while simultaneously getting violently sea sick in a hot and stuffy cabin. And anyway, if the bedding under one stanchion is dried up, it's probably time to re-bed all the stanchions, or face the possibility of needing Charlie Husar to explain how to (easily-heh heh) replace all the rotten plywood holding up your deck. Ouch! Me big black male cat just chomped down on my Achilles tendon. He must be hungry. Bet find him some chow...or else. Jerry From: "Husar, Charlie [USA] (ASE)" <hu… [at] bah.com> To: "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2013 7:00 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] How to reseal hull to deck joint of my 1968 original Cal Cruising 46 A good start is to camp below with a six pack during a rain storm, but as pointed out above, it does not show the entry point. May not prove much, but the six pack is a worthwhile exercise. By the way, the stanchion bases should, at a minimum, have fender washers underneath. Backing plate is better, but fender washers are easier. If there is crud areound the holes, time to do a full refill and recaulk. Cheers Charlie From:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gerald Sobel Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2013 9:14 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: [External] Re: [Cal_Boats] How to resell hull to deck joint of my 1968 original Cal Cruising 46 Maties, So far we have the water hose method, and the air pressure soap bubble method. I propose a third way, over canvas the boat and take it off shore in heavy seas, in 25 to 30 knots, leaving a crewman below who is impervious to sea sickness, to look for water dribbling down below. It should be easy, since he or she only needs to look for a leak on the leeward side, well, mostly. Jerry PS: The air pressure method sounds pretty neat, but it sounds like a job sealing up all the vents, hatches, and companionways with quack tape or masking tape. At least you don't have to leave someone below to up chuck or suffocate, now that I think of it. But, way you kill two crew with one bash. From:Allen Edwards <al… [at] gmail.com> To: "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2013 6:03 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] How to resell hull to deck joint of my 1968 original Cal Cruising 46 That is so cool an idea. Does it work? ;-) On Wed, May 29, 2013 at 3:36 PM, Mark Alan Stahnke (MAS Consulting) <ma… [at] cox.net> wrote: Also, one might try pressurizing the cabin with an electric shop vac with leaf blower. Set up the leaf blower inside and close up cabin to increase pressure. Now with the cabin pressurized, take a squirt bottle with soapy water and test all thru deck fittings. Any traceable leakage will create active bubbles. Mark A. Stahnke MAS Consulting (310) 832-5992 The information in this electronic mail transmission covered by the electronic communications privacy act (18 USC Sections 2510-2521) is confidential and intended to be sent only to the stated recipient(s) of the transmission. It may therefore be protected from unauthorized use or dissemination by client/attorney work-product privileges. If you are not the intended recipient or the intended recipient's agent, you are hereby notified that any review, use, dissemination or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. You are also asked to notify us immediately by telephone and to delete/destroy the original. >From:edwmama >To:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com >Sent:Tuesday, May 28, 2013 9:12 PM >Subject:Re: [Cal_Boats] How to resell hull to deck joint of my 1968 original Cal Cruising 46 > > >Great Idea Gerry >I will have to take a closer look > >Thx > >Edwin >Marina del Rey CA > >Sent from my iPhone > >On May 28, 2013, at 12:03, Gerald Sobel <so… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > >>It could be condensation, too! I noticed there is lots of that after the sun goes down. >>Warm air inside the boat holds lots of water vapor which deposits itself on interior surfaces as the air chills out. >>Jerry >> >> >> >>________________________________ >> >>From:george macon <ge… [at] hotmail.com> >>To: "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com" <ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> >>Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2013 11:05 AM >>Subject: RE: [Cal_Boats] How to resell hull to deck joint of my 1968 original Cal Cruising 46 >> >> >> >>Move the paper towel roll inboard - problem solved! >> >> >> >> >>________________________________ >> >>To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com >>From: sa… [at] gmail.com >>Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 14:03:16 -0400 >>Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] How to resell hull to deck joint of my 1968 original Cal Cruising 46 >> >> >> >>I would rule out all other things before going at the hull & deck joint. My cal 29 leaks a bit there in spots. I removed the rub rail and tried 5200, it helped but didn't solve the problem. >>On my boat, the deck and hull make up the flange for the rub rail and it is riveted together. I have seen some people grind the flange off, but that is more work then I want to do and I want to keep the rub rail. My next approach will be to remove the rub rail, cut the rivets off, put tape on the underside to cover all the little holes where the rub rail was screwed in and I am going to fill the joint w some shredded glass cloth and epoxy in the places where the gap is large and colliodal silica and epoxy along the entire seam. I think this will be plenty strong and will seal it up. My only concern is the colliodal silica will be brittle and may crack if impacted. >>Just some ideas. Hope it helps. >> >>On Tue, May 28, 2013 at 4:12 AM, edwmama <ed… [at] gmail.com> wrote: >> >>Hi all >>I noticed that the roll of paper towel that was tucked in a port side wall >>Storage area beneath my dinette in the pilothouse was showing signs of water intrusion >> >>I've concluded that its probably a leaky hull to deck joint although I have not ruled out stanchions leaking >> >>How do I approach this resealing hull to deck joints on my cal 46? >> >> >> >> >> > >__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 8386 (20130528) __________ > >The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. > >http://www.eset.com __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 8390 (20130529) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com

Just to clarify the water hose method, you move the hose just wetting one spot at a time until you find out where the water is entering. I tried this just recently on a leak I had. Put water over the entire area to make sure I could repeat at the dock what we tired underway with the over canvassed in 30+ knots and a few beers. I could see the drip but having flooded the entire area, didn't know the exact spot. Came back the next day to flood just one area at a time and wouldn't you know it the wood must have swelled and nothing leaked (remember my boat is wood). Allen On Wed, May 29, 2013 at 9:14 PM, Gerald Sobel <so… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > Charlie, > "I have to admit that my boat(s) has/have to many gaps to seal everything > up, but I like the idea. Problem with Jerry’s impervious crewman is that > the leak downward need not be where the water is entering. Lots of little > gaps and channels where the water might run along the deck and deck/hull > joint." > > > I thought about that, but the imagery was too good not to mention, and > worth a chuckle, desperately trying to find the leak while the boat is > bucking wildly all over the place, while simultaneously getting violently > sea sick in a hot and stuffy cabin. > > And anyway, if the bedding under one stanchion is dried up, it's probably > time to re-bed all the stanchions, or face the possibility of needing > Charlie Husar to explain how to (easily-heh heh) replace all the rotten > plywood holding up your deck. > > Ouch! > Me big black male cat just chomped down on my Achilles tendon. He must be > hungry. Bet find him some chow...or else. > > Jerry > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* "Husar, Charlie [USA] (ASE)" <hu… [at] bah.com> > *To:* "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> > *Sent:* Wednesday, May 29, 2013 7:00 PM > *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] How to reseal hull to deck joint of my 1968 > original Cal Cruising 46 > > > > > A good start is to camp below with a six pack during a rain storm, but as > pointed out above, it does not show the entry point. May not prove much, > but the six pack is a worthwhile exercise. > > By the way, the stanchion bases should, at a minimum, have fender washers > underneath. Backing plate is better, but fender washers are easier. If > there is crud areound the holes, time to do a full refill and recaulk. > > Cheers > Charlie > > > *From:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] *On > Behalf Of *Gerald Sobel > *Sent:* Wednesday, May 29, 2013 9:14 PM > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > *Subject:* [External] Re: [Cal_Boats] How to resell hull to deck joint of > my 1968 original Cal Cruising 46 > > > > > Maties, So far we have the water hose method, and the air pressure soap > bubble method. I propose a third way, over canvas the boat and take it off > shore in heavy seas, in 25 to 30 knots, leaving a crewman below who is > impervious to sea sickness, to look for water dribbling down below. It > should be easy, since he or she only needs to look for a leak on the > leeward side, well, mostly. > Jerry > PS: The air pressure method sounds pretty neat, but it sounds like a job > sealing up all the vents, hatches, and companionways with quack tape or > masking tape. At least you don't have to leave someone below to up chuck or > suffocate, now that I think of it. > > But, way you kill two crew with one bash. > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Allen Edwards <al… [at] gmail.com> > *To:* "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> > *Sent:* Wednesday, May 29, 2013 6:03 PM > *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] How to resell hull to deck joint of my 1968 > original Cal Cruising 46 > > > That is so cool an idea. Does it work? ;-) > > On Wed, May 29, 2013 at 3:36 PM, Mark Alan Stahnke (MAS Consulting) < > ma… [at] cox.net> wrote: > > Also, one might try pressurizing the cabin with an electric shop vac > with leaf blower. Set up the leaf blower inside and close up cabin > to increase pressure. > Now with the cabin pressurized, take a squirt bottle with soapy water > and test all thru deck fittings. Any traceable leakage will create active > bubbles. > > > Mark A. Stahnke > MAS Consulting > (310) 832-5992 > > The information in this electronic mail transmission covered by the > electronic communications privacy act (18 USC Sections 2510-2521) is > confidential and intended to be sent only to the stated recipient(s) of the > transmission. It may therefore be protected from unauthorized use or > dissemination by client/attorney work-product privileges. If you are not > the intended recipient or the intended recipient's agent, you are hereby > notified that any review, use, dissemination or copying of this > communication is strictly prohibited. You are also asked to notify us > immediately by telephone and to delete/destroy the original. > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* edwmama <ed… [at] gmail.com> > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > *Sent:* Tuesday, May 28, 2013 9:12 PM > *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] How to resell hull to deck joint of my 1968 > original Cal Cruising 46 > > > Great Idea Gerry > I will have to take a closer look > > Thx > > Edwin > Marina del Rey CA > > Sent from my iPhone > > On May 28, 2013, at 12:03, Gerald Sobel <so… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > > > It could be condensation, too! I noticed there is lots of that after the > sun goes down. > Warm air inside the boat holds lots of water vapor which deposits itself > on interior surfaces as the air chills out. > Jerry > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* george macon <ge… [at] hotmail.com> > *To:* "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com" <ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> > *Sent:* Tuesday, May 28, 2013 11:05 AM > *Subject:* RE: [Cal_Boats] How to resell hull to deck joint of my 1968 > original Cal Cruising 46 > > > > Move the paper towel roll inboard - problem solved! > > > ------------------------------ > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > From: sa… [at] gmail.com > Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 14:03:16 -0400 > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] How to resell hull to deck joint of my 1968 > original Cal Cruising 46 > > > > I would rule out all other things before going at the hull & deck > joint. My cal 29 leaks a bit there in spots. I removed the rub rail and > tried 5200, it helped but didn't solve the problem. > On my boat, the deck and hull make up the flange for the rub rail and it > is riveted together. I have seen some people grind the flange off, but that > is more work then I want to do and I want to keep the rub rail. My next > approach will be to remove the rub rail, cut the rivets off, put tape on > the underside to cover all the little holes where the rub rail was screwed > in and I am going to fill the joint w some shredded glass cloth and epoxy > in the places where the gap is large and colliodal silica and epoxy along > the entire seam. I think this will be plenty strong and will seal it up. > My only concern is the colliodal silica will be brittle and may crack if > impacted. > Just some ideas. Hope it helps. > > On Tue, May 28, 2013 at 4:12 AM, edwmama <ed… [at] gmail.com> wrote: > > Hi all > I noticed that the roll of paper towel that was tucked in a port side wall > Storage area beneath my dinette in the pilothouse was showing signs of > water intrusion > > I've concluded that its probably a leaky hull to deck joint although I > have not ruled out stanchions leaking > > How do I approach this resealing hull to deck joints on my cal 46? > > > > > > > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus > signature database 8386 (20130528) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. > > http://www.eset.com > > > > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus > signature database 8390 (20130529) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. > > http://www.eset.com > > > > > > > >