gunnel

Hi all I'm putting new gunnel on my 1969 Cal 25 that was bought from Spars Rigging. What is the best way to install it ?

I did mine (1974 model) twice. The new molding got piling rash in a storm about a year after I put it on. The molding was secured at intervals with sheet metal screws from the underside. Remove the end covers (you may need someone in the lazarette to hold the nuts) and the screws. Note any tapering of the molding to make it fit in the cover. Taper one end of the new molding to match. Put it in the cover and drill the molding for the screws. Mount that end. Mark the locations of the screw holes in the hull-deck joint on the hull with a pencil. Have a helper stretch the molding along the side. You may be able to pop it over the joint flange or you may need to hit it with a mallet to get it set. Drill the molding at the marks and install the screws. This is all best done while hauled, but it can be done alongside a dock almost as well. When you get to the other end, trim the molding to length and repeat what you did to start. Al On Jun 12, 2013, at 3:14 PM, "tom_cal25" <to… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: > Hi all I'm putting new gunnel on my 1969 Cal 25 that was bought from Spars Rigging. What is the best way to install it ? > >

try marking with a crayon? it is a wax and perhaps easier to get off? and potentially more colorful? The hotter the molding is, the better, and stretch it on with a little tension for best results. recommend a two man job. Reggie CC: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com From: aw… [at] bellsouth.net Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 16:53:46 -0400 Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] gunnel I did mine (1974 model) twice. The new molding got piling rash in a storm about a year after I put it on. The molding was secured at intervals with sheet metal screws from the underside. Remove the end covers (you may need someone in the lazarette to hold the nuts) and the screws. Note any tapering of the molding to make it fit in the cover. Taper one end of the new molding to match. Put it in the cover and drill the molding for the screws. Mount that end. Mark the locations of the screw holes in the hull-deck joint on the hull with a pencil. Have a helper stretch the molding along the side. You may be able to pop it over the joint flange or you may need to hit it with a mallet to get it set. Drill the molding at the marks and install the screws. This is all best done while hauled, but it can be done alongside a dock almost as well. When you get to the other end, trim the molding to length and repeat what you did to start. Al On Jun 12, 2013, at 3:14 PM, "tom_cal25" <to… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: Hi all I'm putting new gunnel on my 1969 Cal 25 that was bought from Spars Rigging. What is the best way to install it ?

On 6/12/2013 4:53 PM, Al Waschka wrote: > > > I did mine (1974 model) twice. The new molding got piling rash in a > storm about a year after I put it on. I'm assuming this is the same vinyl rubrail material used on the Cal 20, or something very similar. My Cal 20 has the old vinyl and I was annoyed by the chalking, which tended to get all over me and my clothes. To avoid a replacement project, I cleaned up the old vinyl with an abrasive pad and solvent, then applied vinyl lobster buoy paint. Hamilton Marine had two kinds and I just picked one (don't have the brand here at work). The results were pretty good. The stuff adheres reasonably well. It's much whiter and it does not leave chalk on me. It did not level well, but looks pretty good under a 20-foot rule. If the old vinyl isn't badly damaged, this is an option for others to consider. Chris Campbell >

where can this be purchased and when you know the brand name could you share that with me(us)? thanks, it's worth a try...Helen --- On Thu, 6/13/13, Chris Campbell <cc… [at] lsnm.org> wrote: From: Chris Campbell <cc… [at] lsnm.org> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] gunnel To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Date: Thursday, June 13, 2013, 8:01 AM On 6/12/2013 4:53 PM, Al Waschka wrote: I did mine (1974 model) twice. The new molding got piling rash in a storm about a year after I put it on. I'm assuming this is the same vinyl rubrail material used on the Cal 20, or something very similar. My Cal 20 has the old vinyl and I was annoyed by the chalking, which tended to get all over me and my clothes. To avoid a replacement project, I cleaned up the old vinyl with an abrasive pad and solvent, then applied vinyl lobster buoy paint. Hamilton Marine had two kinds and I just picked one (don't have the brand here at work). The results were pretty good. The stuff adheres reasonably well. It's much whiter and it does not leave chalk on me. It did not level well, but looks pretty good under a 20-foot rule. If the old vinyl isn't badly damaged, this is an option for others to consider. Chris Campbell

On 6/13/2013 7:49 PM, Helen Horn wrote: > > > where can this be purchased and when you know the brand name could you > share that with me(us)? thanks, it's worth a try...Helen > My can of the stuff is in my shop at home and I'm at work, but I just checked the Hamilton Marine web site and think this is what I bought: > http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse.cfm/paint-buoy-white-qt-for-pvc-buoys-115108/4,34397.html That's the white version; you could be creative and go with colors, too. They also sell a second brand of PVC buoy paint. I fretted for a while over which one to buy, as I recall, and finally picked some irrelevant characteristic to help be decide. My theory was that the chalky vinyl surface needed to be cleaned of chalk, so i used both sandpaper and solvent before painting. Chris Campbell > > --- On *Thu, 6/13/13, Chris Campbell /<cc… [at] lsnm.org>/* wrote: > > > From: Chris Campbell <cc… [at] lsnm.org> > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] gunnel > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > Date: Thursday, June 13, 2013, 8:01 AM > > On 6/12/2013 4:53 PM, Al Waschka wrote: >> I did mine (1974 model) twice. The new molding got piling rash in >> a storm about a year after I put it on. > > I'm assuming this is the same vinyl rubrail material used on the > Cal 20, or something very similar. My Cal 20 has the old vinyl > and I was annoyed by the chalking, which tended to get all over me > and my clothes. To avoid a replacement project, I cleaned up the > old vinyl with an abrasive pad and solvent, then applied vinyl > lobster buoy paint. Hamilton Marine had two kinds and I just > picked one (don't have the brand here at work). > > The results were pretty good. The stuff adheres reasonably well. > It's much whiter and it does not leave chalk on me. It did not > level well, but looks pretty good under a 20-foot rule. > > If the old vinyl isn't badly damaged, this is an option for others > to consider. > > Chris Campbell >> > > > >

I have a CAL 229 in need of a new rub rail and have been following this thread. You mention stacking the rail with SS screws to secure it but factory installed rails aren't that way. Do they use a different or special technique to stretch the rail, while installing it, to keep it on? Bob Virgalla CAL229 ~~~_/)~~~ From: Al Waschka <aw… [at] bellsouth.net> To: "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Cc: "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 4:53 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] gunnel I did mine (1974 model) twice. The new molding got piling rash in a storm about a year after I put it on. The molding was secured at intervals with sheet metal screws from the underside. Remove the end covers (you may need someone in the lazarette to hold the nuts) and the screws. Note any tapering of the molding to make it fit in the cover. Taper one end of the new molding to match. Put it in the cover and drill the molding for the screws. Mount that end. Mark the locations of the screw holes in the hull-deck joint on the hull with a pencil. Have a helper stretch the molding along the side. You may be able to pop it over the joint flange or you may need to hit it with a mallet to get it set. Drill the molding at the marks and install the screws. This is all best done while hauled, but it can be done alongside a dock almost as well. When you get to the other end, trim the molding to length and repeat what you did to start. Al On Jun 12, 2013, at 3:14 PM, "tom_cal25" <to… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: >Hi all I'm putting new gunnel on my 1969 Cal 25 that was bought from Spars Rigging. What is the best way to install it ? > >

I used the DRMarine rub rail & did not use anything but spreading the rubrail, sliding it over the flange and letting it relax back to closing itself over the flange. It is very secure. Got it from this site: http://www.drmarine.com/ Search for: "cal rub rail" This one works on the 20-30 foot and over boats that used to have a chalky white rubber type rub rail: -> 4 Rub Rail Flexible U-Channel - Wht. Was just under $400 with shipping for a 65' strip. They have different sizes too & it is made of PVC in the consistency of a hard rubber. Put it on a few years ago and it is still mounted very firmly with no screws, adhesive etc.... I did it while at dock by myself with no problems. The ends did not fit into the endcaps wery well as Bob describes below. I heated it up, trimmed the inside of the ends so it would get smaller & fit in the caps. Does not get chalky like the old rub rails either. Cross section looks a little different as it is more square than the old rub rail, but that had not taken away from the look. Cleans up very nicely. The old rubrail was mounted the same way. I used a handle mounted hardware razor to cut down the centerline of the old rubrail to get it off, and a heat gun (very sparingly) just enough to get the new one to be able to spread out to go over the flange. Been very happy with it & got the recommendation here on this list about 3 years ago. If the fiberglass flange which the rubrail goes on is very damaged, there is an old thread here about repairing them if you look. Cheers - Dyer, Honu #87 Cal 2-30 SF Bay. From:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bob Virgalla Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2013 12:58 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] gunnel I have a CAL 229 in need of a new rub rail and have been following this thread. You mention stacking the rail with SS screws to secure it but factory installed rails aren't that way. Do they use a different or special technique to stretch the rail, while installing it, to keep it on? Bob Virgalla CAL229 ~~~_/)~~~ From:Al Waschka <aw… [at] bellsouth.net> To: "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Cc: "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 4:53 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] gunnel I did mine (1974 model) twice. The new molding got piling rash in a storm about a year after I put it on. The molding was secured at intervals with sheet metal screws from the underside. Remove the end covers (you may need someone in the lazarette to hold the nuts) and the screws. Note any tapering of the molding to make it fit in the cover. Taper one end of the new molding to match. Put it in the cover and drill the molding for the screws. Mount that end. Mark the locations of the screw holes in the hull-deck joint on the hull with a pencil. Have a helper stretch the molding along the side. You may be able to pop it over the joint flange or you may need to hit it with a mallet to get it set. Drill the molding at the marks and install the screws. This is all best done while hauled, but it can be done alongside a dock almost as well. When you get to the other end, trim the molding to length and repeat what you did to start. Al On Jun 12, 2013, at 3:14 PM, "tom_cal25" <to… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: >Hi all I'm putting new gunnel on my 1969 Cal 25 that was bought from Spars Rigging. What is the best way to install it ? PG&E is committed to protecting our customers' privacy. To learn more, please visit http://www.pge.com/about/company/privacy/customer/