RE: [Cal_Boats] gunnel

Hi, Tom. I'll send you some directions. Hot weather sure helps. Cheers Charlie CAL 25s Annapolis From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tom_cal25 Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 3:14 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: [External] [Cal_Boats] gunnel Hi all I'm putting new gunnel on my 1969 Cal 25 that was bought from Spars Rigging. What is the best way to install it ? ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links

With sufficient temperature and leverage, the screws would not be needed. In some cases it is hard to stretch the rail enough or get it warm enough. We do some screws all the time for a “just in case”. I once had a rail come off in heavy chop. Looked like a fishing net dragging being the boat. Your call. Cheers Charlie From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dylan Crouch Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2013 4:31 PM To: cal_boats Subject: [External] Re: [Cal_Boats] gunnel I used the DRMarine rub rail & did not use anything but spreading the rubrail, sliding it over the flange and letting it relax back to closing itself over the flange. It is very secure. Got it from this site: http://www.drmarine.com/ Search for: "cal rub rail" This one works on the 20-30 foot and over boats that used to have a chalky white rubber type rub rail: -> 4 Rub Rail Flexible U-Channel - Wht. Was just under $400 with shipping for a 65' strip. They have different sizes too & it is made of PVC in the consistency of a hard rubber. Put it on a few years ago and it is still mounted very firmly with no screws, adhesive etc.... I did it while at dock by myself with no problems. The ends did not fit into the endcaps wery well as Bob describes below. I heated it up, trimmed the inside of the ends so it would get smaller & fit in the caps. Does not get chalky like the old rub rails either. Cross section looks a little different as it is more square than the old rub rail, but that had not taken away from the look. Cleans up very nicely. The old rubrail was mounted the same way. I used a handle mounted hardware razor to cut down the centerline of the old rubrail to get it off, and a heat gun (very sparingly) just enough to get the new one to be able to spread out to go over the flange. Been very happy with it & got the recommendation here on this list about 3 years ago. If the fiberglass flange which the rubrail goes on is very damaged, there is an old thread here about repairing them if you look. Cheers - Dyer, Honu #87 Cal 2-30 SF Bay. From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bob Virgalla Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2013 12:58 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] gunnel I have a CAL 229 in need of a new rub rail and have been following this thread. You mention stacking the rail with SS screws to secure it but factory installed rails aren't that way. Do they use a different or special technique to stretch the rail, while installing it, to keep it on? Bob Virgalla CAL229 ~~~_/)~~~ From: Al Waschka <aw… [at] bellsouth.net<mailto:aw… [at] bellsouth.net>> To: "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com>" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com>> Cc: "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com>" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com<mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com>> Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 4:53 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] gunnel I did mine (1974 model) twice. The new molding got piling rash in a storm about a year after I put it on. The molding was secured at intervals with sheet metal screws from the underside. Remove the end covers (you may need someone in the lazarette to hold the nuts) and the screws. Note any tapering of the molding to make it fit in the cover. Taper one end of the new molding to match. Put it in the cover and drill the molding for the screws. Mount that end. Mark the locations of the screw holes in the hull-deck joint on the hull with a pencil. Have a helper stretch the molding along the side. You may be able to pop it over the joint flange or you may need to hit it with a mallet to get it set. Drill the molding at the marks and install the screws. This is all best done while hauled, but it can be done alongside a dock almost as well. When you get to the other end, trim the molding to length and repeat what you did to start. Al On Jun 12, 2013, at 3:14 PM, "tom_cal25" <to… [at] yahoo.com<mailto:to… [at] yahoo.com>> wrote: Hi all I'm putting new gunnel on my 1969 Cal 25 that was bought from Spars Rigging. What is the best way to install it ? PG&E is committed to protecting our customers' privacy. To learn more, please visit http://www.pge.com/about/company/privacy/customer/

Charlie, Did my rub rail a few years ago, it took a week before my thumbs were normal. Never put screws in it; the boatyard guys said it would pop off when they picked it up, it's been fine, and I earned their respect. I did it with knowledge I gained from this list. I left it out in the sun and then muscled it. I think now I would have a heavy-duty hair dryer to use to make it more flexible. I was missing the end caps, and Roger Jones gave me his from Swiss Navy, so it still sails in part. David Dobbs, CAL29 411 From: "Husar, Charlie [USA] (ASE)" <hu… [at] bah.com> To: "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2013 3:40 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] gunnel With sufficient temperature and leverage, the screws would not be needed. In some cases it is hard to stretch the rail enough or get it warm enough. We do some screws all the time for a “just in case”. I once had a rail come off in heavy chop. Looked like a fishing net dragging being the boat. Your call. Cheers Charlie From:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dylan Crouch Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2013 4:31 PM To: cal_boats Subject: [External] Re: [Cal_Boats] gunnel I used the DRMarine rub rail & did not use anything but spreading the rubrail, sliding it over the flange and letting it relax back to closing itself over the flange. It is very secure. Got it from this site: http://www.drmarine.com/ Search for: "cal rub rail" This one works on the 20-30 foot and over boats that used to have a chalky white rubber type rub rail: -> 4 Rub Rail Flexible U-Channel - Wht. Was just under $400 with shipping for a 65' strip. They have different sizes too & it is made of PVC in the consistency of a hard rubber. Put it on a few years ago and it is still mounted very firmly with no screws, adhesive etc.... I did it while at dock by myself with no problems. The ends did not fit into the endcaps wery well as Bob describes below. I heated it up, trimmed the inside of the ends so it would get smaller & fit in the caps. Does not get chalky like the old rub rails either. Cross section looks a little different as it is more square than the old rub rail, but that had not taken away from the look. Cleans up very nicely. The old rubrail was mounted the same way. I used a handle mounted hardware razor to cut down the centerline of the old rubrail to get it off, and a heat gun (very sparingly) just enough to get the new one to be able to spread out to go over the flange. Been very happy with it & got the recommendation here on this list about 3 years ago. If the fiberglass flange which the rubrail goes on is very damaged, there is an old thread here about repairing them if you look. Cheers - Dyer, Honu #87 Cal 2-30 SF Bay. From:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bob Virgalla Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2013 12:58 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] gunnel I have a CAL 229 in need of a new rub rail and have been following this thread. You mention stacking the rail with SS screws to secure it but factory installed rails aren't that way. Do they use a different or special technique to stretch the rail, while installing it, to keep it on? Bob Virgalla CAL229 ~~~_/)~~~ From:Al Waschka <aw… [at] bellsouth.net> To: "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Cc: "Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 4:53 PM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] gunnel I did mine (1974 model) twice. The new molding got piling rash in a storm about a year after I put it on. The molding was secured at intervals with sheet metal screws from the underside. Remove the end covers (you may need someone in the lazarette to hold the nuts) and the screws. Note any tapering of the molding to make it fit in the cover. Taper one end of the new molding to match. Put it in the cover and drill the molding for the screws. Mount that end. Mark the locations of the screw holes in the hull-deck joint on the hull with a pencil. Have a helper stretch the molding along the side. You may be able to pop it over the joint flange or you may need to hit it with a mallet to get it set. Drill the molding at the marks and install the screws. This is all best done while hauled, but it can be done alongside a dock almost as well. When you get to the other end, trim the molding to length and repeat what you did to start. Al On Jun 12, 2013, at 3:14 PM, "tom_cal25" <to… [at] yahoo.com> wrote: >Hi all I'm putting new gunnel on my 1969 Cal 25 that was bought from Spars Rigging. What is the best way to install it ? PG&E is committed to protecting our customers' privacy. To learn more, please visit http://www.pge.com/about/company/privacy/customer/