Hatch crazing....replacements ??

New owner of a Cal 33-2. So, all of the cabin hatches up top are badly crazed. Does anyone know of a place to purchase replacement for the glass? Or a company that will replace the glass? I figure it must be some sort of Plexiglass. Any company sell replacement hatches? What have other owners done? I have heard talk that these hatches are known to be subject to crazing. Mine are extremely crazed. They look as if they could burst into small pieces. Thanks Leslie

Another question regarding hatches.....what size are my Lewmar hatches? There are three, all different sizes. Two on top, a larger on front. I found http://www.hatchmasters.com and http://www.selectplastics.com. I'm not sure what size hatches I am dealing with on my boat. Thanks, Leslie On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 10:00 AM, Leslie Newman <d2… [at] gmail.com> wrote: > New owner of a Cal 33-2. So, all of the cabin hatches up top are badly > crazed. Does anyone know of a place to purchase replacement for the glass? > Or a company that will replace the glass? I figure it must be some sort of > Plexiglass. Any company sell replacement hatches? What have other owners > done? I have heard talk that these hatches are known to be subject to > crazing. Mine are extremely crazed. They look as if they could burst into > small pieces. > Thanks > Leslie > >

Hi Leslie, I had to replace the forward hatch on my 988 Cal 33 when a "helper" fell on it and cracked the plastic. I decided to just purchase a new hatch. Here is the Defender part info: 900528 Bomar Low Profile Performance Hatch Price was about $400. I left the original frame installed and replaced the opening parts. There are a couple of places that will either sell you the acrylic panel or replace it for you, one in Connecticut and one in Florida. Replacing the panel was going to cost around $200 and take several weeks. I didn't want to put up with the leaks for that long. Lense itself was around $70, I think. Note that I think the hatch on my boat was replaced in 2004 so it may not be the same as the original. If you Google Bowmar lens replace you will find more than you wanted to know! Basically you will want to send them the hatch (lens part) and have them either remake the acrylic, maybe install it. You will find lots of info for replacing it yourself, but it is not a task to be undertaken lightly. Great care in the removal, cleaning, choice of sealant and assembly are required. Might be worth the learning curve if you are doing more than one hatch. Good Luck, Ted Wrobel Cal 33 Celebration Newport, RI

Can't help you with the sizes until I go to the boat, but I had replacement glazing made for my non-opening ports in the main cabin. They and, I suspect, all the other hatches except for the marine portlights, are made of Lexan (polycarbonate). I got mine made at my local glass company. I pulled the original glazing (it was leaking anyway) and took it to them for patterns. For the non-opening ports, the glazing is installed with an adhesive tape that cures upon being compressed. You have to come up with a way to compress it and hold it for 24 hours or so. Simplest thing is probably to pull the hatches and take them to a glass company and have them remove the original Lexan and replace it. Al From: Leslie Newman <d2… [at] gmail.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, August 5, 2013 10:32 AM Subject: [Cal_Boats] Re: Hatch crazing....replacements ?? Another question regarding hatches.....what size are my Lewmar hatches? There are three, all different sizes. Two on top, a larger on front. I found http://www.hatchmasters.com and http://www.selectplastics.com. I'm not sure what size hatches I am dealing with on my boat. Thanks, Leslie On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 10:00 AM, Leslie Newman <d2… [at] gmail.com> wrote: New owner of a Cal 33-2. So, all of the cabin hatches up top are badly crazed. Does anyone know of a place to purchase replacement for the glass? Or a company that will replace the glass? I figure it must be some sort of Plexiglass. Any company sell replacement hatches? What have other owners done? I have heard talk that these hatches are known to be subject to crazing. Mine are extremely crazed. They look as if they could burst into small pieces. >Thanks >Leslie > >

Generally the glazing is acrylic, not polycarbonate (Lexan). Lexan has a much higher coefficient of expansion and thus is much more likely to cause the seal to fail due to temperature changes. If polycarbonate is used a much wider flexible sealant is needed. Ted _____ From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Al Waschka Sent: Monday, August 05, 2013 11:43 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Re: Hatch crazing....replacements ?? Can't help you with the sizes until I go to the boat, but I had replacement glazing made for my non-opening ports in the main cabin. They and, I suspect, all the other hatches except for the marine portlights, are made of Lexan (polycarbonate). I got mine made at my local glass company. I pulled the original glazing (it was leaking anyway) and took it to them for patterns. For the non-opening ports, the glazing is installed with an adhesive tape that cures upon being compressed. You have to come up with a way to compress it and hold it for 24 hours or so. Simplest thing is probably to pull the hatches and take them to a glass company and have them remove the original Lexan and replace it. Al _____ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.1432 / Virus Database: 3209/6052 - Release Date: 08/05/13

Thanks to all for the replies. I am a do it yourself kind of person. I might try to obtain the materials and fix them myself. I've cut lexan and such on my small bandsaw before with good results. Sounds like I need acrylic material and some luck. On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 11:52 AM, Ted Wrobel <tw… [at] tacticaltech.com>wrote: > ** > > > ** > Generally the glazing is acrylic, not polycarbonate (Lexan). > > Lexan has a much higher coefficient of expansion and thus is much more > likely to cause the seal to fail due to temperature changes. > > If polycarbonate is used a much wider flexible sealant is needed. > > Ted > > > > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] *On > Behalf Of *Al Waschka > *Sent:* Monday, August 05, 2013 11:43 AM > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] Re: Hatch crazing....replacements ?? > > > > Can't help you with the sizes until I go to the boat, but I had > replacement glazing made for my non-opening ports in the main cabin. They > and, I suspect, all the other hatches except for the marine portlights, are > made of Lexan (polycarbonate). I got mine made at my local glass company. > I pulled the original glazing (it was leaking anyway) and took it to them > for patterns. For the non-opening ports, the glazing is installed with an > adhesive tape that cures upon being compressed. You have to come up with a > way to compress it and hold it for 24 hours or so. Simplest thing is > probably to pull the hatches and take them to a glass company and have them > remove the original Lexan and replace it. > > Al > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 10.0.1432 / Virus Database: 3209/6052 - Release Date: 08/05/13 > > >

Thanks for the clarification re: acrylic. That may be what I got as I was relying on my memory which isn't what it once was. If you can dig out the original material a glass shop can probably cut new acrylic inserts for you and sell you the proper adhesive to mount them. Al On Aug 5, 2013, at 2:11 PM, Leslie Newman <d2… [at] gmail.com> wrote: > Thanks to all for the replies. I am a do it yourself kind of person. I might try to obtain the materials and fix them myself. I've cut lexan and such on my small bandsaw before with good results. Sounds like I need acrylic material and some luck. > > > On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 11:52 AM, Ted Wrobel <tw… [at] tacticaltech.com> wrote: > > > Generally the glazing is acrylic, not polycarbonate (Lexan). > > Lexan has a much higher coefficient of expansion and thus is much more likely to cause the seal to fail due to temperature changes. > > If polycarbonate is used a much wider flexible sealant is needed. > > Ted > > > > > > From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Al Waschka > Sent: Monday, August 05, 2013 11:43 AM > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Re: Hatch crazing....replacements ?? > > > Can't help you with the sizes until I go to the boat, but I had replacement glazing made for my non-opening ports in the main cabin. They and, I suspect, all the other hatches except for the marine portlights, are made of Lexan (polycarbonate). I got mine made at my local glass company. I pulled the original glazing (it was leaking anyway) and took it to them for patterns. For the non-opening ports, the glazing is installed with an adhesive tape that cures upon being compressed. You have to come up with a way to compress it and hold it for 24 hours or so. Simplest thing is probably to pull the hatches and take them to a glass company and have them remove the original Lexan and replace it. > > Al > > > > > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 10.0.1432 / Virus Database: 3209/6052 - Release Date: 08/05/13 > > >

I think I'll attempt the smaller hatch that way and see how it goes. Probably the biggest problem is keeping out the elements while I have the hatch removed. On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 2:48 PM, Al Waschka <aw… [at] bellsouth.net> wrote: > ** > > > Thanks for the clarification re: acrylic. That may be what I got as I was > relying on my memory which isn't what it once was. > > If you can dig out the original material a glass shop can probably cut new > acrylic inserts for you and sell you the proper adhesive to mount them. > > > Al > > On Aug 5, 2013, at 2:11 PM, Leslie Newman <d2… [at] gmail.com> wrote: > > > > Thanks to all for the replies. I am a do it yourself kind of person. I > might try to obtain the materials and fix them myself. I've cut lexan and > such on my small bandsaw before with good results. Sounds like I need > acrylic material and some luck. > > > On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 11:52 AM, Ted Wrobel <tw… [at] tacticaltech.com>wrote: > >> ** >> >> >> ** >> Generally the glazing is acrylic, not polycarbonate (Lexan). >> >> Lexan has a much higher coefficient of expansion and thus is much more >> likely to cause the seal to fail due to temperature changes. >> >> If polycarbonate is used a much wider flexible sealant is needed. >> >> Ted >> >> >> >> >> >> ------------------------------ >> *From:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] *On >> Behalf Of *Al Waschka >> *Sent:* Monday, August 05, 2013 11:43 AM >> *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com >> *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] Re: Hatch crazing....replacements ?? >> >> >> >> Can't help you with the sizes until I go to the boat, but I had >> replacement glazing made for my non-opening ports in the main cabin. They >> and, I suspect, all the other hatches except for the marine portlights, are >> made of Lexan (polycarbonate). I got mine made at my local glass company. >> I pulled the original glazing (it was leaking anyway) and took it to them >> for patterns. For the non-opening ports, the glazing is installed with an >> adhesive tape that cures upon being compressed. You have to come up with a >> way to compress it and hold it for 24 hours or so. Simplest thing is >> probably to pull the hatches and take them to a glass company and have them >> remove the original Lexan and replace it. >> >> Al >> >> >> >> >> >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> No virus found in this message. >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >> Version: 10.0.1432 / Virus Database: 3209/6052 - Release Date: 08/05/13 >> >> > >

Hi Leslie, Simple solution is a piece of 1/2 inch plywood over the hatch opening. Foam tape (door seal) can be used to form a gasket. -Mark the ply from below, stick foam tape along that line. A couple of cross pieces inside (I used a diagonal at each corner) and a screw thru both make a semi-permanent cover. And, it's cheap! Ted Cal 33 Celebration Newport _____ From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Leslie Newman Sent: Monday, August 05, 2013 4:23 PM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Re: Hatch crazing....replacements ?? I think I'll attempt the smaller hatch that way and see how it goes. Probably the biggest problem is keeping out the elements while I have the hatch removed. On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 2:48 PM, Al Waschka <aw… [at] bellsouth.net> wrote: Thanks for the clarification re: acrylic. That may be what I got as I was relying on my memory which isn't what it once was. If you can dig out the original material a glass shop can probably cut new acrylic inserts for you and sell you the proper adhesive to mount them. Al On Aug 5, 2013, at 2:11 PM, Leslie Newman <d2… [at] gmail.com> wrote: Thanks to all for the replies. I am a do it yourself kind of person. I might try to obtain the materials and fix them myself. I've cut lexan and such on my small bandsaw before with good results. Sounds like I need acrylic material and some luck. On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 11:52 AM, Ted Wrobel <tw… [at] tacticaltech.com> wrote: Generally the glazing is acrylic, not polycarbonate (Lexan). Lexan has a much higher coefficient of expansion and thus is much more likely to cause the seal to fail due to temperature changes. If polycarbonate is used a much wider flexible sealant is needed. Ted _____ From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Al Waschka Sent: Monday, August 05, 2013 11:43 AM To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Re: Hatch crazing....replacements ?? Can't help you with the sizes until I go to the boat, but I had replacement glazing made for my non-opening ports in the main cabin. They and, I suspect, all the other hatches except for the marine portlights, are made of Lexan (polycarbonate). I got mine made at my local glass company. I pulled the original glazing (it was leaking anyway) and took it to them for patterns. For the non-opening ports, the glazing is installed with an adhesive tape that cures upon being compressed. You have to come up with a way to compress it and hold it for 24 hours or so. Simplest thing is probably to pull the hatches and take them to a glass company and have them remove the original Lexan and replace it. Al _____ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.1432 / Virus Database: 3209/6052 - Release Date: 08/05/13 _____ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.1432 / Virus Database: 3209/6052 - Release Date: 08/05/13

I have successfully used cardboard cut 1/2" larger than the hatch and covered with heavy plastic purchased from a hardware store and then taped to the boat with good quality duct tape each time I have transported the boat. This method has kept the hatches from being damaged by road debris and kept any water out of the boat when being transported at 70mph through all kinds of weather. All was easily removed as the duct tape glue residue didn't "age" much during a one week trailer trip. The cardboard and plastic are all easily cut to size with a pocket knife. Don Dutton 1986 Cal 33-2, "Quantum Evolution" On Aug 5, 2013, at 1:30 PM, Ted Wrobel wrote: > > Hi Leslie, > > Simple solution is a piece of 1/2 inch plywood over the hatch opening. Foam tape (door seal) can be used to form a gasket. -Mark the ply from below, stick foam tape along that line. > > A couple of cross pieces inside (I used a diagonal at each corner) and a screw thru both make a semi-permanent cover. And, it's cheap! > > Ted > Cal 33 Celebration > Newport > > From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Leslie Newman > Sent: Monday, August 05, 2013 4:23 PM > To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Re: Hatch crazing....replacements ?? > > > > I think I'll attempt the smaller hatch that way and see how it goes. Probably the biggest problem is keeping out the elements while I have the hatch removed. > > > On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 2:48 PM, Al Waschka <aw… [at] bellsouth.net> wrote: > > > Thanks for the clarification re: acrylic. That may be what I got as I was relying on my memory which isn't what it once was. > > If you can dig out the original material a glass shop can probably cut new acrylic inserts for you and sell you the proper adhesive to mount them. > > > Al > > On Aug 5, 2013, at 2:11 PM, Leslie Newman <d2… [at] gmail.com> wrote: > >> >> >> Thanks to all for the replies. I am a do it yourself kind of person. I might try to obtain the materials and fix them myself. I've cut lexan and such on my small bandsaw before with good results. Sounds like I need acrylic material and some luck. >> >> >> On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 11:52 AM, Ted Wrobel <tw… [at] tacticaltech.com> wrote: >> >> >> Generally the glazing is acrylic, not polycarbonate (Lexan). >> >> Lexan has a much higher coefficient of expansion and thus is much more likely to cause the seal to fail due to temperature changes. >> >> If polycarbonate is used a much wider flexible sealant is needed. >> >> Ted >> >> >> >> >> >> From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Al Waschka >> Sent: Monday, August 05, 2013 11:43 AM >> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com >> Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Re: Hatch crazing....replacements ?? >> >> >> >> Can't help you with the sizes until I go to the boat, but I had replacement glazing made for my non-opening ports in the main cabin. They and, I suspect, all the other hatches except for the marine portlights, are made of Lexan (polycarbonate). I got mine made at my local glass company. I pulled the original glazing (it was leaking anyway) and took it to them for patterns. For the non-opening ports, the glazing is installed with an adhesive tape that cures upon being compressed. You have to come up with a way to compress it and hold it for 24 hours or so. Simplest thing is probably to pull the hatches and take them to a glass company and have them remove the original Lexan and replace it. >> >> Al >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> No virus found in this message. >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >> Version: 10.0.1432 / Virus Database: 3209/6052 - Release Date: 08/05/13 >> >> >> >> > > > > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 10.0.1432 / Virus Database: 3209/6052 - Release Date: 08/05/13 > > >

I'd like to add, if you use Lexan, it is directional in that one side is the correct one for the exterior surface. Helen From: Donald C Dutton <dn… [at] comcast.net> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Cc: Donald C Dutton <dn… [at] comcast.net> Sent: Friday, August 16, 2013 10:50 AM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Hatch crazing....replacements ?? I have successfully used cardboard cut 1/2" larger than the hatch and covered with heavy plastic purchased from a hardware store and then taped to the boat with good quality duct tape each time I have transported the boat. This method has kept the hatches from being damaged by road debris and kept any water out of the boat when being transported at 70mph through all kinds of weather. All was easily removed as the duct tape glue residue didn't "age" much during a one week trailer trip. The cardboard and plastic are all easily cut to size with a pocket knife. Don Dutton 1986 Cal 33-2, "Quantum Evolution" On Aug 5, 2013, at 1:30 PM, Ted Wrobel wrote: > > >Hi Leslie, > >Simple solution is a piece of 1/2 inch plywood over the hatch opening. Foam tape (door seal) can be used to form a gasket. -Mark the ply from below, stick foam tape along that line. > >A couple of cross pieces inside (I used a diagonal at each corner) and a screw thru both make a semi-permanent cover. And, it's cheap! > >Ted >Cal 33 Celebration >Newport > > >________________________________ > From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Leslie Newman >Sent: Monday, August 05, 2013 4:23 PM >To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com >Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Re: Hatch crazing....replacements ?? > > > > >I think I'll attempt the smaller hatch that way and see how it goes. Probably the biggest problem is keeping out the elements while I have the hatch removed. > > > > >On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 2:48 PM, Al Waschka <aw… [at] bellsouth.net> wrote: > > >> >> >> >>Thanks for the clarification re: acrylic. That may be what I got as I was relying on my memory which isn't what it once was. >> >> >>If you can dig out the original material a glass shop can probably cut new acrylic inserts for you and sell you the proper adhesive to mount them. >> >> >> >>Al >> >>On Aug 5, 2013, at 2:11 PM, Leslie Newman <d2… [at] gmail.com> wrote: >> >> >> >>> >>> >>>Thanks to all for the replies. I am a do it yourself kind of person. I might try to obtain the materials and fix them myself. I've cut lexan and such on my small bandsaw before with good results. Sounds like I need acrylic material and some luck. >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 11:52 AM, Ted Wrobel <tw… [at] tacticaltech.com> wrote: >>> >>> >>>> >>>>Generally the glazing is acrylic, not polycarbonate (Lexan). >>>> >>>>Lexan has a much higher coefficient of expansion and thus is much more likely to cause the seal to fail due to temperature changes. >>>> >>>>If polycarbonate is used a much wider flexible sealant is needed. >>>> >>>>Ted >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>________________________________ >>>> From: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Al Waschka >>>>Sent: Monday, August 05, 2013 11:43 AM >>>>To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com >>>>Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Re: Hatch crazing....replacements ?? >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>Can't help you with the sizes until I go to the boat, but I had replacement glazing made for my non-opening ports in the main cabin. They and, I suspect, all the other hatches except for the marine portlights, are made of Lexan (polycarbonate). I got mine made at my local glass company. I pulled the original glazing (it was leaking anyway) and took it to them for patterns. For the non-opening ports, the glazing is installed with an adhesive tape that cures upon being compressed. You have to come up with a way to compress it and hold it for 24 hours or so. Simplest thing is probably to pull the hatches and take them to a glass company and have them remove the original Lexan and replace it. >>>> >>>>Al >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>________________________________ >>>> >>>>No virus found in this message. >>>>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >>>>Version: 10.0.1432 / Virus Database: 3209/6052 - Release Date: 08/05/13 >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> > > > >________________________________ > >No virus found in this message. >Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >Version: 10.0.1432 / Virus Database: 3209/6052 - Release Date: 08/05/13 > >

Thanks to all for the feedback. I haven't tackled the hatches yet, though it is on my short list. The boat is new to us and we are enjoying discovering everything about her. The boat has been very well cared for over the years. But of course there are little things that need attending to. So far I've sewn a new wheel cover, replaced a cracked thru hull drain in the bottom of one of the cockpit storage compartments, Re-stitched some of the settee cushions, cleaned out (then cleaned) inside the cockpit locker on the port side, replaced some hose clamps. Little things that just keep her in top condition. They called for rain last Sunday but we went out anyway. Just sailed out to the bay and then back into the river. Then just tacking back and forth enjoying the day. Never rained a drop. On Sat, Aug 17, 2013 at 12:28 AM, Helen Horn <he… [at] sbcglobal.net>wrote: > ** > > > I'd like to add, if you use Lexan, it is directional in that one side is > the correct one for the exterior surface. Helen > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Donald C Dutton <dn… [at] comcast.net> > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > *Cc:* Donald C Dutton <dn… [at] comcast.net> > *Sent:* Friday, August 16, 2013 10:50 AM > *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] Hatch crazing....replacements ?? > > > I have successfully used cardboard cut 1/2" larger than the hatch and > covered with heavy plastic purchased from a hardware store and then taped > to the boat with good quality duct tape each time I have transported the > boat. This method has kept the hatches from being damaged by road debris > and kept any water out of the boat when being transported at 70mph through > all kinds of weather. All was easily removed as the duct tape glue residue > didn't "age" much during a one week trailer trip. The cardboard and > plastic are all easily cut to size with a pocket knife. > > Don Dutton > 1986 Cal 33-2, "Quantum Evolution" > > On Aug 5, 2013, at 1:30 PM, Ted Wrobel wrote: > > > > Hi Leslie, > > Simple solution is a piece of 1/2 inch plywood over the hatch opening. > Foam tape (door seal) can be used to form a gasket. -Mark the ply from > below, stick foam tape along that line. > > A couple of cross pieces inside (I used a diagonal at each corner) and a > screw thru both make a semi-permanent cover. And, it's cheap! > > Ted > Cal 33 Celebration > Newport > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] *On > Behalf Of *Leslie Newman > *Sent:* Monday, August 05, 2013 4:23 PM > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] Re: Hatch crazing....replacements ?? > > > > I think I'll attempt the smaller hatch that way and see how it goes. > Probably the biggest problem is keeping out the elements while I have the > hatch removed. > > > On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 2:48 PM, Al Waschka <aw… [at] bellsouth.net> wrote: > > ** > > > Thanks for the clarification re: acrylic. That may be what I got as I was > relying on my memory which isn't what it once was. > > If you can dig out the original material a glass shop can probably cut new > acrylic inserts for you and sell you the proper adhesive to mount them. > > > Al > > On Aug 5, 2013, at 2:11 PM, Leslie Newman <d2… [at] gmail.com> wrote: > > > > Thanks to all for the replies. I am a do it yourself kind of person. I > might try to obtain the materials and fix them myself. I've cut lexan and > such on my small bandsaw before with good results. Sounds like I need > acrylic material and some luck. > > > On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 11:52 AM, Ted Wrobel <tw… [at] tacticaltech.com>wrote: > > ** > > ** > Generally the glazing is acrylic, not polycarbonate (Lexan). > > Lexan has a much higher coefficient of expansion and thus is much more > likely to cause the seal to fail due to temperature changes. > > If polycarbonate is used a much wider flexible sealant is needed. > > Ted > > > > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com [mailto:Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com] *On > Behalf Of *Al Waschka > *Sent:* Monday, August 05, 2013 11:43 AM > *To:* Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com > *Subject:* Re: [Cal_Boats] Re: Hatch crazing....replacements ?? > > > > Can't help you with the sizes until I go to the boat, but I had > replacement glazing made for my non-opening ports in the main cabin. They > and, I suspect, all the other hatches except for the marine portlights, are > made of Lexan (polycarbonate). I got mine made at my local glass company. > I pulled the original glazing (it was leaking anyway) and took it to them > for patterns. For the non-opening ports, the glazing is installed with an > adhesive tape that cures upon being compressed. You have to come up with a > way to compress it and hold it for 24 hours or so. Simplest thing is > probably to pull the hatches and take them to a glass company and have them > remove the original Lexan and replace it. > > Al > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 10.0.1432 / Virus Database: 3209/6052 - Release Date: 08/05/13 > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 10.0.1432 / Virus Database: 3209/6052 - Release Date: 08/05/13 > > > > > >