Restoring old Westerbeke diesel

I have "inherited" an 87 Cal 28-2 with a Westerbeke diesel. Its been on the hard for several years. How should I approach the issue of starting the diesel? Here's what I figured I would do: 1. Re-route the fuel line to a portable fuel tank (to avoid contamination from the sludge that's probably in the old tank, which is another job entirely) 2. Change all filters 3. Change the oil I figured I could at least get the thing to fire up on the hard before we put her back in the water... Any and all suggestions are appreciated!! Carl Heintz

Hi Carl - please send your phone number and best time to call. *Joe DeMers - owner* Sound Marine Diesel LLC SoundMarineDiesel.com <http://www.soundmarinediesel.com/>*phone & fax (860) 666-2184* On 3/1/2014 9:57 AM, ca… [at] hotmail.com wrote: > > > I have "inherited" an 87 Cal 28-2 with a Westerbeke diesel. Its been > on the hard for several years. How should I approach the issue of > starting the diesel? Here's what I figured I would do: > 1. Re-route the fuel line to a portable fuel tank (to avoid > contamination from the sludge that's probably in the old tank, which > is another job entirely) > 2. Change all filters > 3. Change the oil > I figured I could at least get the thing to fire up on the hard before > we put her back in the water... > Any and all suggestions are appreciated!! > > Carl Heintz > > > -- *Joe DeMers - owner* Sound Marine Diesel LLC SoundMarineDiesel.com <http://www.soundmarinediesel.com/>*phone & fax (860) 666-2184*

Carl, make sure to disconnect the incoming water line, take a funnel and pour in water as it starts . May be best to pour in a gallon jug of winterizing antifreeze, it will be good for the block. Nick From: ca… [at] hotmail.com To: "Cal Boats" <Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com> Sent: Saturday, March 1, 2014 9:57:58 AM Subject: [Cal_Boats] Restoring old Westerbeke diesel I have "inherited" an 87 Cal 28-2 with a Westerbeke diesel. Its been on the hard for several years. How should I approach the issue of starting the diesel? Here's what I figured I would do: 1. Re-route the fuel line to a portable fuel tank (to avoid contamination from the sludge that's probably in the old tank, which is another job entirely) 2. Change all filters 3. Change the oil I figured I could at least get the thing to fire up on the hard before we put her back in the water... Any and all suggestions are appreciated!! Carl Heintz

On 3/1/2014 9:57 AM, ca… [at] hotmail.com wrote: > > > I have "inherited" an 87 Cal 28-2 with a Westerbeke diesel. Its been > on the hard for several years. How should I approach the issue of > starting the diesel? Here's what I figured I would do: > 1. Re-route the fuel line to a portable fuel tank (to avoid > contamination from the sludge that's probably in the old tank, which > is another job entirely) > 2. Change all filters > 3. Change the oil > I figured I could at least get the thing to fire up on the hard before > we put her back in the water... > Any and all suggestions are appreciated!! I'm sure that Joe will give full and complete advice, but I'm curious about this and so I'll toss this out. When I am starting a gas engine that's been sitting for a long time, I'm inclined to squirt a bit of oil into the cylinders to lubricate the rings a bit as the engine cranks and starts. I don't know if oil in a cylinder is kosher with a diesel. Also, on gas engines you can disable the ignition system so the engine cranks a while, working up a bit of oil pressure. On a diesel you can't do that, but don't some of them have decompression levers to allow 'em to spin without starting? Chris Campbell

Hi Chris, and everyone else.... The comments posted on the site were VERY helpful. Joe and I had a call, and he is "the man" when it comes to diesels. He led me through each step... and Chris, yes, oil in the cylinders is a good thing.... after a fashion. Joe suggested that I remove the glow plugs, and then squirt an ample amount of fogging oil into each cylinder. After a couple of other steps, designed to get oil around the valves and in the oil pump, we crank the engine (with glow plugs out) The cylinders will squirt the unused fogging oil out... messy, but saving the engine at the same time. I don't know why something similar wouldn't be helpful for a gas engine... Again, thank you Joe.. I really appreciate your help!!

Here's the short version of restarting an old diesel engine. 1] drain oil, remove oil filter and secondary [ on engine ] fuel filter 2] get the correct oil filter [check the manual for the correct part number, don't assume the removed oil filter is correct] and secondary fuel filter. NAPA auto parts has top quality filters, and can cross reference many OEM part numbers. 3] check trans oil for correct type and level 4] using Shell Rotella 15W40 oil, squirt some oil [about 1/2 pint ] into the engine block where the oil filter is installed. This will prime the oil pump. Oil must be introduced into the passages around the threaded nipple, [ this leads back to the oil pump ] NOT into the nipple. NOTE - All diesel engines require diesel grade oil. NEVER install gasoline grade oil into a diesel engine ! 5] Install new oil, new oil filter, new fuel filter. NOTE - ALWAYS install the fuel filter dry. If you pre fill the filter, you have just bypassed it, and have introduced contaminants. BIG no no. 6] remove the fuel hose from the fuel supply pump, install clear vinyl tubing, lead tubing into a CLEAN, fresh can of diesel fuel. 7] bleed the fuel system, as detailed in the owner's manual. This will ensure the expensive fuel injection pump will have lubricant during engine cranking. 8] remove all glow plugs, spray "fogging oil" [ available at NAPA ] into the holes. This will prelube the cylinders and piston rings. NOTE - Many engines do not have glow plugs, such as Yanmar, Volvo, or some Perkins engines. The idea is to get fogging oil into each cylinder before cranking the engine. Removing the air horns or intake manifold may allow access to the intake valves, where oil can be sprayed. Removing the fuel injectors will also allow direct access to the cylinders, HOWEVER, one must work surgically clean with fuel injection systems. Skip F.I. removal unless you are experienced. Some engines, such as early Universal and Yanmar diesels, have a compression release lever. This slightly opens the exhaust valves to relieve compression while cranking. Spraying fogging oil on top of the exhaust valve head will allow cylinder pre lubrication. 9] close c-cock and remove raw water impeller 10] remove the valve cover and lubricate all pushrod ends, rocker arms, and valve stems with lube oil. Reinstall the valve cover. 11] shift into neutral, put fuel control at low idle speed, and crank the engine for 30 seconds. rest for 1 minute, and crank again for 30 seconds while observing the oil pressure gauge. This will result in oil pressure throughout the engine, with the cylinders, piston rings, intake and exhaust valves being lubricated with fogging oil. NOTE - the engine will rotate very fast, as there is no compression with the glow plugs removed. There will also be a spout of vaporized oil from each glow plug hole, the mess can be minimized by placing a thick rag along the top of the engine. 12] check the fresh water coolant for correct level 13] Reinstall all glow plugs. Place the fuel control to full engine speed. Be sure the engine shut down devise [ usually a pull cable ] is disengaged. 14] follow the engine manual start procedure, and start the engine. Immediately slow the engine to 1/2 speed once it starts. Run the engine no longer than 2 minutes, or you risk burning the rubber exhaust hose. 15] Install the raw water impeller, check trans oil, engine lube oil, and coolant levels. 16 ] if the boat is ashore, lead a hose from a bucket to the raw water pump, and fill he bucket with water using a garden hose. Start the engine, and run it at 1/2 speed for 15 minutes, being sure to keep the bucket full. DO NOT idle the engine, as this will accelerate engine wear ! Check for leaks while running. Contact me with any questions. *Joe DeMers - owner* Sound Marine Diesel LLC SoundMarineDiesel.com <http://www.soundmarinediesel.com/>*phone & fax (860) 666-2184* On 3/4/2014 7:36 AM, ca… [at] hotmail.com wrote: > > > Hi Chris, and everyone else.... > The comments posted on the site were VERY helpful. Joe and I had a > call, and he is "the man" when it comes to diesels. He led me through > each step... and Chris, yes, oil in the cylinders is a good thing.... > after a fashion. Joe suggested that I remove the glow plugs, and then > squirt an ample amount of fogging oil into each cylinder. After a > couple of other steps, designed to get oil around the valves and in > the oil pump, we crank the engine (with glow plugs out) The cylinders > will squirt the unused fogging oil out... messy, but saving the engine > at the same time. I don't know why something similar wouldn't be > helpful for a gas engine... > > Again, thank you Joe.. I really appreciate your help!! > > > > -- *Joe DeMers - owner* Sound Marine Diesel LLC SoundMarineDiesel.com <http://www.soundmarinediesel.com/>*phone & fax (860) 666-2184*

Well done Joe! Excellent directions. Thank you for sharing. Tom Vandiver, Cal Cruising 46, Bayou Chico, FL From: Joe DeMers <je… [at] mindspring.com> To: Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, March 4, 2014 9:14 AM Subject: Re: [Cal_Boats] Restoring old Westerbeke diesel Here's the short version of restarting an old diesel engine. 1] drain oil, remove oil filter and secondary [ on engine ] fuel filter 2] get the correct oil filter [check the manual for the correct part number, don't assume the removed oil filter is correct] and secondary fuel filter. NAPA auto parts has top quality filters, and can cross reference many OEM part numbers. 3] check trans oil for correct type and level 4] using Shell Rotella 15W40 oil, squirt some oil [about 1/2 pint ] into the engine block where the oil filter is installed. This will prime the oil pump. Oil must be introduced into the passages around the threaded nipple, [ this leads back to the oil pump ] NOT into the nipple. NOTE - All diesel engines require diesel grade oil. NEVER install gasoline grade oil into a diesel engine ! 5] Install new oil, new oil filter, new fuel filter. NOTE - ALWAYS install the fuel filter dry. If you pre fill the filter, you have just bypassed it, and have introduced contaminants. BIG no no. 6] remove the fuel hose from the fuel supply pump, install clear vinyl tubing, lead tubing into a CLEAN, fresh can of diesel fuel. 7] bleed the fuel system, as detailed in the owner's manual. This will ensure the expensive fuel injection pump will have lubricant during engine cranking. 8] remove all glow plugs, spray "fogging oil" [ available at NAPA ] into the holes. This will prelube the cylinders and piston rings. NOTE - Many engines do not have glow plugs, such as Yanmar, Volvo, or some Perkins engines. The idea is to get fogging oil into each cylinder before cranking the engine. Removing the air horns or intake manifold may allow access to the intake valves, where oil can be sprayed. Removing the fuel injectors will also allow direct access to the cylinders, HOWEVER, one must work surgically clean with fuel injection systems. Skip F.I. removal unless you are experienced. Some engines, such as early Universal and Yanmar diesels, have a compression release lever. This slightly opens the exhaust valves to relieve compression while cranking. Spraying fogging oil on top of the exhaust valve head will allow cylinder pre lubrication. 9] close c-cock and remove raw water impeller 10] remove the valve cover and lubricate all pushrod ends, rocker arms, and valve stems with lube oil. Reinstall the valve cover. 11] shift into neutral, put fuel control at low idle speed, and crank the engine for 30 seconds. rest for 1 minute, and crank again for 30 seconds while observing the oil pressure gauge. This will result in oil pressure throughout the engine, with the cylinders, piston rings, intake and exhaust valves being lubricated with fogging oil. NOTE - the engine will rotate very fast, as there is no compression with the glow plugs removed. There will also be a spout of vaporized oil from each glow plug hole, the mess can be minimized by placing a thick rag along the top of the engine. 12] check the fresh water coolant for correct level 13] Reinstall all glow plugs. Place the fuel control to full engine speed. Be sure the engine shut down devise [ usually a pull cable ] is disengaged. 14] follow the engine manual start procedure, and start the engine. Immediately slow the engine to 1/2 speed once it starts. Run the engine no longer than 2 minutes, or you risk burning the rubber exhaust hose. 15] Install the raw water impeller, check trans oil, engine lube oil, and coolant levels. 16 ] if the boat is ashore, lead a hose from a bucket to the raw water pump, and fill he bucket with water using a garden hose. Start the engine, and run it at 1/2 speed for 15 minutes, being sure to keep the bucket full. DO NOT idle the engine, as this will accelerate engine wear ! Check for leaks while running. Contact me with any questions. Joe DeMers - owner Sound Marine Diesel LLC SoundMarineDiesel.comphone & fax (860) 666-2184 On 3/4/2014 7:36 AM, ca… [at] hotmail.com wrote: Hi Chris, and everyone else.... >The comments posted on the site were VERY helpful. Joe and I had a call, and he is "the man" when it comes to diesels. He led me through each step... and Chris, yes, oil in the cylinders is a good thing.... after a fashion. Joe suggested that I remove the glow plugs, and then squirt an ample amount of fogging oil into each cylinder. After a couple of other steps, designed to get oil around the valves and in the oil pump, we crank the engine (with glow plugs out) The cylinders will squirt the unused fogging oil out... messy, but saving the engine at the same time. I don't know why something similar wouldn't be helpful for a gas engine... > > >Again, thank you Joe.. I really appreciate your help!! > > -- Joe DeMers - owner Sound Marine Diesel LLC SoundMarineDiesel.comphone & fax (860) 666-2184

On 3/4/2014 10:14 AM, Joe DeMers wrote: > > > Here's the short version of restarting an old diesel engine. Nice summary, Joe. I just stopped off at the Hagerty Insurance building to look at cars. They are a major national insurance broker for classic boats and cars and their headquarters is in my town. They have a big display space on the corner of the building and there are always old cars on display. Today they had some '56 and '57 Thunderbirds. I noticed that one car's mechanical clock was tick-tick-ticking along but another one's was stopped. Either the clock needed repair or the battery was disconnected. Old cars sometimes need a bit of care when they are being restarted. I still have a black tattoo on one finger joint, created by oil and dirt from a 1969 4-4-2 engine. I had stored it for the winter and it did not want to restart in the spring. I was pulling plugs to check them and the plug wrench slipped and skinned the knuckle badly. Now I had an engine that wouldn't start and blood running all over, while the old lady that owned the barn was tapping her foot with impatience. Turns out my CD ignition system was unhappy with its winter's rest. Chris Campbell

Carl are you from City Island NY? > On Mar 4, 2014, at 7:36 AM, <ca… [at] hotmail.com> wrote: > > Hi Chris, and everyone else.... > > The comments posted on the site were VERY helpful. Joe and I had a call, and he is "the man" when it comes to diesels. He led me through each step... and Chris, yes, oil in the cylinders is a good thing.... after a fashion. Joe suggested that I remove the glow plugs, and then squirt an ample amount of fogging oil into each cylinder. After a couple of other steps, designed to get oil around the valves and in the oil pump, we crank the engine (with glow plugs out) The cylinders will squirt the unused fogging oil out... messy, but saving the engine at the same time. I don't know why something similar wouldn't be helpful for a gas engine... > > Again, thank you Joe.. I really appreciate your help!! > >