Engine compartment question

Greetings everyone! I realize in the past there was a thread about cleaning the engine compartment and I don't have that thread. I would like to know what others had done to clean the gunk out and what type of cleaner is most recommended. I have an opportunity of a lifetime to get this project done! I have taken my Yanmar 1GM10 out of the Kool Beans (Cal 2-29) due to starting issues and when it quit on me when I was about to enter port in the fall. The exhaust seat and valve needed to be replaced due to the time that the engine sat while the boat was on the hard before I acquired it. After the engine was extracted, and upon examining the engine, the first clue that I saw, there was carbon build up near the exit of the mixing elbow. When the head assembly came off, it was found that the exhaust valve and seat were damaged, to the point that there was no compression being made and therefore making the engine inoperable. The rest of the engine checked out ok, all bearings, piston, connecting rod, and cylinder walls were checked with micrometers and feeler gauges. I had the block boiled and checked for cracks, which also checked out to be in excellent condition. The head will be machined to specs and all new gaskets will be installed as well. Both intake and exhaust valves will be replaced along with new valve guides as well. Both valve guide seats will be re-machined as well. It was a combination of the engine finally giving out after sitting without the proper maintenance while sitting on the hard. Since then, I had made sure that the engine got regularly scheduled maintenance and oil and fuel filter changes every year since then. I am also planning on taking the opportunity to take my fuel tank out and check it out to see if it is worth keeping. The capacity is 22 gallons. I had an additional problem with fuel contamination as well, in which I feel it finally pushed it temporarily to give up it's ghost. I would like to replace the tank with a approved tank of the same capacity. I am also going to make a moisture scrubber on the vent line to help control the moisture from entering the tank when the weather changes. Thank you to all in advance for your advice and taking time to read this... Happy sailing! Jim Ives - Kool Beans Rochester, NY

Hi Jim, I can speak to the tank replacement. My mild steel tank corroded down low near where the prop shaft kick off a bit of salt water. I would check this area carefully. I removed my tank once in 2005 and repainted it with Rustoleum. And then had to replace it in 2012. Getting the old one out and the new one back in was a bit of a challenge. I joked that I wanted to hire a midget with strong 6 foot arms. But the framing for the tank was easily disassembled to get it out. I measured it very carefully and made accurate drawings of each tank view. I had another one fabricated by a tank company in my area out of aluminum. Stainless steel was prohibitively expensive. The replacement went in like a glove on a hand. I took the opportunity to replace fuel lines and fuel filter with one that had a pump. Good luck, Terry Spencer Cal 2-29 Tacoma On Apr 27, 2014, at 6:02 PM, Kool Beans wrote: > > Greetings everyone! > > I realize in the past there was a thread about cleaning the engine compartment and I don't have that thread. I would like to know what others had done to clean the gunk out and what type of cleaner is most recommended. I have an opportunity of a lifetime to get this project done! > > I have taken my Yanmar 1GM10 out of the Kool Beans (Cal 2-29) due to starting issues and when it quit on me when I was about to enter port in the fall. The exhaust seat and valve needed to be replaced due to the time that the engine sat while the boat was on the hard before I acquired it. After the engine was extracted, and upon examining the engine, the first clue that I saw, there was carbon build up near the exit of the mixing elbow. When the head assembly came off, it was found that the exhaust valve and seat were damaged, to the point that there was no compression being made and therefore making the engine inoperable. > > The rest of the engine checked out ok, all bearings, piston, connecting rod, and cylinder walls were checked with micrometers and feeler gauges. I had the block boiled and checked for cracks, which also checked out to be in excellent condition. The head will be machined to specs and all new gaskets will be installed as well. Both intake and exhaust valves will be replaced along with new valve guides as well. Both valve guide seats will be re-machined as well. > > It was a combination of the engine finally giving out after sitting without the proper maintenance while sitting on the hard. Since then, I had made sure that the engine got regularly scheduled maintenance and oil and fuel filter changes every year since then. > > I am also planning on taking the opportunity to take my fuel tank out and check it out to see if it is worth keeping. The capacity is 22 gallons. I had an additional problem with fuel contamination as well, in which I feel it finally pushed it temporarily to give up it's ghost. I would like to replace the tank with a approved tank of the same capacity. I am also going to make a moisture scrubber on the vent line to help control the moisture from entering the tank when the weather changes. > > Thank you to all in advance for your advice and taking time to read this... > > Happy sailing! > > Jim Ives - Kool Beans > Rochester, NY > > > >

On 4/27/2014 9:02 PM, Kool Beans wrote: > > > Greetings everyone! > > I realize in the past there was a thread about cleaning the engine > compartment and I don't have that thread. I would like to know what > others had done to clean the gunk out and what type of cleaner is most > recommended. I have an opportunity of a lifetime to get this project > done! ********* Use TSP and a nylon scrub brush, then flush with water. After drying, use "Brakleen" available at auto parts stores. Now scratch the surface with 100 or 80 grit, wipe with alcohol, and use bilge paint. I like the white paint, it is also available in grey. > > I have taken my Yanmar 1GM10 out of the Kool Beans (Cal 2-29) due to > starting issues and when it quit on me when I was about to enter port > in the fall. The exhaust seat and valve needed to be replaced due to > the time that the engine sat while the boat was on the hard before I > acquired it. After the engine was extracted, and upon examining the > engine, the first clue that I saw, there was carbon build up near the > exit of the mixing elbow. ******** Those cast iron Yanmar exhaust elbows are problematical. They like to accumulate carbon, and clog. I have "fixed" several engines that refused to run by replacing just the elbow ! This part should be replaced with a non clogging type elbow. > When the head assembly came off, it was found that the exhaust valve > and seat were damaged, to the point that there was no compression > being made and therefore making the engine inoperable. > > The rest of the engine checked out ok, all bearings, piston, > connecting rod, and cylinder walls were checked with micrometers and > feeler gauges. I had the block boiled and checked for cracks, which > also checked out to be in excellent condition. The head will be > machined to specs and all new gaskets will be installed as well. Both > intake and exhaust valves will be replaced along with new valve guides > as well. Both valve guide seats will be re-machined as well. > > It was a combination of the engine finally giving out after sitting > without the proper maintenance while sitting on the hard. Since then, > I had made sure that the engine got regularly scheduled maintenance > and oil and fuel filter changes every year since then. ******** The valve problem you describe can be caused by 1] excessive idling [ longer than 5 minutes ] 2] wrong type or grade lube oil 3] not bringing the engine up to operating temp before shutdown 4] operating at the incorrect engine load or speed ["babying" the engine ] 5] old fuel, or fuel with low cetane 6] restricted exhaust system > > I am also planning on taking the opportunity to take my fuel tank out > and check it out to see if it is worth keeping. The capacity is 22 > gallons. I had an additional problem with fuel contamination as well, > in which I feel it finally pushed it temporarily to give up it's > ghost. I would like to replace the tank with a approved tank of the > same capacity. ******** Check the plastic tank builders, you will save a lot of $ if you can find one that fits your boat. *Joe DeMers - owner* Sound Marine Diesel LLC SoundMarineDiesel.com <http://www.soundmarinediesel.com/>*phone & fax (860) 666-2184* > I am also going to make a moisture scrubber on the vent line to help > control the moisture from entering the tank when the weather changes. > > Thank you to all in advance for your advice and taking time to read > this... > > Happy sailing! > > Jim Ives - Kool Beans > Rochester, NY > > > > > -- *Joe DeMers - owner* Sound Marine Diesel LLC SoundMarineDiesel.com <http://www.soundmarinediesel.com/>*phone & fax (860) 666-2184*

After removing the old Farymann in our 2-29 I started with a scraper and a vacuum, then moved on to an engine degreaser followed by Simple Green before applying a couple of coats of white bilge paint. Between removing the Farymann and installing the Yanmar 2GM I replaced the 20 gallon steel fuel tank with a 15 gallon aluminum one that I had made to replace the original. Once or twice a year I'll remove and clean or replace the brass fitting for the water mix on the exhaust elbow to make sure that there is no carbon build up. Having the engine out makes for a good time to add any sound deadening material if you're so inclined. Best, John ---In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, <jedsail@...> wrote : On 4/27/2014 9:02 PM, Kool Beans wrote: Greetings everyone! I realize in the past there was a thread about cleaning the engine compartment and I don't have that thread. I would like to know what others had done to clean the gunk out and what type of cleaner is most recommended. I have an opportunity of a lifetime to get this project done! ********* Use TSP and a nylon scrub brush, then flush with water. After drying, use "Brakleen" available at auto parts stores. Now scratch the surface with 100 or 80 grit, wipe with alcohol, and use bilge paint. I like the white paint, it is also available in grey. I have taken my Yanmar 1GM10 out of the Kool Beans (Cal 2-29) due to starting issues and when it quit on me when I was about to enter port in the fall. The exhaust seat and valve needed to be replaced due to the time that the engine sat while the boat was on the hard before I acquired it. After the engine was extracted, and upon examining the engine, the first clue that I saw, there was carbon build up near the exit of the mixing elbow. ******** Those cast iron Yanmar exhaust elbows are problematical. They like to accumulate carbon, and clog. I have "fixed" several engines that refused to run by replacing just the elbow ! This part should be replaced with a non clogging type elbow. When the head assembly came off, it was found that the exhaust valve and seat were damaged, to the point that there was no compression being made and therefore making the engine inoperable. The rest of the engine checked out ok, all bearings, piston, connecting rod, and cylinder walls were checked with micrometers and feeler gauges. I had the block boiled and checked for cracks, which also checked out to be in excellent condition. The head will be machined to specs and all new gaskets will be installed as well. Both intake and exhaust valves will be replaced along with new valve guides as well. Both valve guide seats will be re-machined as well. It was a combination of the engine finally giving out after sitting without the proper maintenance while sitting on the hard. Since then, I had made sure that the engine got regularly scheduled maintenance and oil and fuel filter changes every year since then. ******** The valve problem you describe can be caused by 1] excessive idling [ longer than 5 minutes ] 2] wrong type or grade lube oil 3] not bringing the engine up to operating temp before shutdown 4] operating at the incorrect engine load or speed ["babying" the engine ] 5] old fuel, or fuel with low cetane 6] restricted exhaust system I am also planning on taking the opportunity to take my fuel tank out and check it out to see if it is worth keeping. The capacity is 22 gallons. I had an additional problem with fuel contamination as well, in which I feel it finally pushed it temporarily to give up it's ghost. I would like to replace the tank with a approved tank of the same capacity. ******** Check the plastic tank builders, you will save a lot of $ if you can find one that fits your boat. Joe DeMers - owner Sound Marine Diesel LLC SoundMarineDiesel.com http://www.soundmarinediesel.com/ phone & fax (860) 666-2184 I am also going to make a moisture scrubber on the vent line to help control the moisture from entering the tank when the weather changes. Thank you to all in advance for your advice and taking time to read this... Happy sailing! Jim Ives - Kool Beans Rochester, NY -- Joe DeMers - owner Sound Marine Diesel LLC SoundMarineDiesel.com http://www.soundmarinediesel.com/phone & fax (860) 666-2184

I guess I'm alergic to Simple Green - I get all plugged up when I used to try and use it. I recommend Jasco TSP Substitute. Not as much aroma and it really cuts everything. I still would wear a respirator if you can't get some air moving through there and I wouldn't allow myself to inhale the vapor. Wilkie On Apr 28, 2014, at 7:22 AM, ja… [at] jacaldwellinc.com wrote: After removing the old Farymann in our 2-29 I started with a scraper and a vacuum, then moved on to an engine degreaser followed by Simple Green before applying a couple of coats of white bilge paint. Between removing the Farymann and installing the Yanmar 2GM I replaced the 20 gallon steel fuel tank with a 15 gallon aluminum one that I had made to replace the original. Once or twice a year I'll remove and clean or replace the brass fitting for the water mix on the exhaust elbow to make sure that there is no carbon build up. Having the engine out makes for a good time to add any sound deadening material if you're so inclined. Best, John ---In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, <jedsail@...> wrote : On 4/27/2014 9:02 PM, Kool Beans wrote: > Greetings everyone! > > I realize in the past there was a thread about cleaning the engine compartment and I don't have that thread. I would like to know what others had done to clean the gunk out and what type of cleaner is most recommended. I have an opportunity of a lifetime to get this project done! ********* Use TSP and a nylon scrub brush, then flush with water. After drying, use "Brakleen" available at auto parts stores. Now scratch the surface with 100 or 80 grit, wipe with alcohol, and use bilge paint. I like the white paint, it is also available in grey. > > I have taken my Yanmar 1GM10 out of the Kool Beans (Cal 2-29) due to starting issues and when it quit on me when I was about to enter port in the fall. The exhaust seat and valve needed to be replaced due to the time that the engine sat while the boat was on the hard before I acquired it. After the engine was extracted, and upon examining the engine, the first clue that I saw, there was carbon build up near the exit of the mixing elbow. ******** Those cast iron Yanmar exhaust elbows are problematical. They like to accumulate carbon, and clog. I have "fixed" several engines that refused to run by replacing just the elbow ! This part should be replaced with a non clogging type elbow. > When the head assembly came off, it was found that the exhaust valve and seat were damaged, to the point that there was no compression being made and therefore making the engine inoperable. > > The rest of the engine checked out ok, all bearings, piston, connecting rod, and cylinder walls were checked with micrometers and feeler gauges. I had the block boiled and checked for cracks, which also checked out to be in excellent condition. The head will be machined to specs and all new gaskets will be installed as well. Both intake and exhaust valves will be replaced along with new valve guides as well. Both valve guide seats will be re-machined as well. > > It was a combination of the engine finally giving out after sitting without the proper maintenance while sitting on the hard. Since then, I had made sure that the engine got regularly scheduled maintenance and oil and fuel filter changes every year since then. ******** The valve problem you describe can be caused by 1] excessive idling [ longer than 5 minutes ] 2] wrong type or grade lube oil 3] not bringing the engine up to operating temp before shutdown 4] operating at the incorrect engine load or speed ["babying" the engine ] 5] old fuel, or fuel with low cetane 6] restricted exhaust system > > I am also planning on taking the opportunity to take my fuel tank out and check it out to see if it is worth keeping. The capacity is 22 gallons. I had an additional problem with fuel contamination as well, in which I feel it finally pushed it temporarily to give up it's ghost. I would like to replace the tank with a approved tank of the same capacity. ******** Check the plastic tank builders, you will save a lot of $ if you can find one that fits your boat. Joe DeMers - owner Sound Marine Diesel LLC SoundMarineDiesel.com phone & fax (860) 666-2184 > I am also going to make a moisture scrubber on the vent line to help control the moisture from entering the tank when the weather changes. > > Thank you to all in advance for your advice and taking time to read this... > > Happy sailing! > > Jim Ives - Kool Beans > Rochester, NY > > -- Joe DeMers - owner Sound Marine Diesel LLC SoundMarineDiesel.comphone & fax (860) 666-2184

white wall tire cleaner, undiluted from the napa store is one of the very best degreasers available... spray it on and let it set for 2 or 3 minutes and hose it off. do this twice and it will be as clean as it can ever get. once you get all the emulsified grease hosed into the bilge, it becomes another challenge to clean the bilge out. On Monday, April 28, 2014 9:23 AM, David Owen <dw… [at] me.com> wrote: > > > > > >I guess I'm alergic to Simple Green - I get all plugged up when I used to try and use it. >I recommend Jasco TSP Substitute. Not as much aroma and it really cuts everything. I still would wear a respirator if you can't get some air moving through there and I wouldn't allow myself to inhale the vapor. > > >Wilkie > > > > > > >On Apr 28, 2014, at 7:22 AM, ja… [at] jacaldwellinc.com wrote: > > > > >After removing the old Farymann in our 2-29 I started with a scraper and a vacuum, then moved on to an engine degreaser followed by Simple Green before applying a couple of coats of white bilge paint. > > >Between removing the Farymann and installing the Yanmar 2GM I replaced the 20 gallon steel fuel tank with a 15 gallon aluminum one that I had made to replace the original. > > >Once or twice a year I'll remove and clean or replace the brass fitting for the water mix on the exhaust elbow to make sure that there is no carbon build up. > > >Having the engine out makes for a good time to add any sound deadening material if you're so inclined. > > >Best, >John > > > > > > >---In Ca… [at] yahoogroups.com, <jedsail@...> wrote : > > > > >On 4/27/2014 9:02 PM, Kool Beans wrote: >> >>Greetings everyone! >>> >>>I realize in the past there was a thread about cleaning the engine compartment and I don't have that thread. I would like to know what others had done to clean the gunk out and what type of cleaner is most recommended. I have an opportunity of a lifetime to get this project done! >>> >>********* Use TSP and a nylon scrub brush, then flush with water. After drying, use "Brakleen" available at auto parts stores. Now scratch the surface with 100 or 80 grit, wipe with alcohol, and use bilge paint. I like the white paint, it is also available in grey. >> >> >>>I have taken my Yanmar 1GM10 out of the Kool Beans (Cal 2-29) due to starting issues and when it quit on me when I was about to enter port in the fall. The exhaust seat and valve needed to be replaced due to the time that the engine sat while the boat was on the hard before I acquired it. After the engine was extracted, and upon examining the engine, the first clue that I saw, there was carbon build up near the exit of the mixing elbow. >>******** Those cast iron Yanmar exhaust elbows are problematical. They like to accumulate carbon, and clog. I have "fixed" several engines that refused to run by replacing just the elbow ! This part should be replaced with a non clogging type elbow. >> >> >> >>When the head assembly came off, it was found that the exhaust valve and seat were damaged, to the point that there was no compression being made and therefore making the engine inoperable. >>> >>>The rest of the engine checked out ok, all bearings, piston, connecting rod, and cylinder walls were checked with micrometers and feeler gauges. I had the block boiled and checked for cracks, which also checked out to be in excellent condition. The head will be machined to specs and all new gaskets will be installed as well. Both intake and exhaust valves will be replaced along with new valve guides as well. Both valve guide seats will be re-machined as well. >>> >>>It was a combination of the engine finally giving out after sitting without the proper maintenance while sitting on the hard. Since then, I had made sure that the engine got regularly scheduled maintenance and oil and fuel filter changes every year since then. >>>******** The valve problem you describe can be caused by >> >>1] excessive idling [ longer than 5 minutes ] >> >>2] wrong type or grade lube oil >> >>3] not bringing the engine up to operating temp before shutdown >> >>4] operating at the incorrect engine load or speed ["babying" the engine ] >> >>5] old fuel, or fuel with low cetane >> >>6] restricted exhaust system >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >>>I am also planning on taking the opportunity to take my fuel tank out and check it out to see if it is worth keeping. The capacity is 22 gallons. I had an additional problem with fuel contamination as well, in which I feel it finally pushed it temporarily to give up it's ghost. I would like to replace the tank with a approved tank of the same capacity. >>******** Check the plastic tank builders, you will save a lot of $ if you can find one that fits your boat. >> >>Joe DeMers - owner >>Sound Marine Diesel LLCSoundMarineDiesel.com phone & fax (860) 666-2184 >> >> >>I am also going to make a moisture scrubber on the vent line to help control the moisture from entering the tank when the weather changes. >>> >>>Thank you to all in advance for your advice and taking time to read this... >>> >>>Happy sailing! >>> >>>Jim Ives - Kool Beans >>>Rochester, NY >>> >>> >>> >> >>-- >> >>Joe DeMers - owner >>Sound Marine Diesel LLCSoundMarineDiesel.comphone & fax (860) 666-2184 > > > > > >

Hi Joe, I could not help noticing your response below. I do not know how many other listees have a Yanmar. I have found that removing and blowing out the exhaust elbow on my 2GM20F is a regular maintenance chore. That and cleaning out the little doohickey that send water into it. So where does one get a non clogging type elbow that would fit on my engine? Thanks, Terry Spencer Cal 2-29 Tacoma On Apr 28, 2014, at 7:22 AM, <ja… [at] jacaldwellinc.com> wrote: > ******** Those cast iron Yanmar exhaust elbows are problematical. They like to accumulate carbon, and clog. I have "fixed" several engines that refused to run by replacing just the elbow ! This part should be replaced with a non clogging type elbow.

Hi Terry - Please contact me off list for exhaust elbow details. *Joe DeMers - owner* Sound Marine Diesel LLC SoundMarineDiesel.com <http://www.soundmarinediesel.com/>* phone & fax (860) 666-2184* On 4/28/2014 8:38 PM, Terry Spencer wrote: > > > Hi Joe, > > I could not help noticing your response below. I do not know how many > other listees have a Yanmar. I have found that removing and blowing > out the exhaust elbow on my 2GM20F is a regular maintenance chore. > That and cleaning out the little doohickey that send water into it. > So where does one get a non clogging type elbow that would fit on my > engine? > > Thanks, > Terry Spencer > Cal 2-29 > Tacoma > > > On Apr 28, 2014, at 7:22 AM, <ja… [at] jacaldwellinc.com > <mailto:ja… [at] jacaldwellinc.com>> wrote: > >> ******** Those cast iron Yanmar exhaust elbows are problematical. >> They like to accumulate carbon, and clog. I have "fixed" several >> engines that refused to run by replacing just the elbow ! This part >> should be replaced with a non clogging type elbow. > > > > -- *Joe DeMers - owner* Sound Marine Diesel LLC SoundMarineDiesel.com <http://www.soundmarinediesel.com/>*phone & fax (860) 666-2184*